LCBO Food & Drink Autumn 2021

Meet the Speck family HENRY OF PELHAMWINERY | ST. CATHARINES, ONTARIO

Eggnog. We wanted to make an eggnog that even eggnog “haters” loved. We didn’t want it to be thick — more like a sweetened milk. Other than Dad, none of us really liked eggnog. We sat around the kitchen table, and kept making batches and tasting them, adjusting the sweetness and spice. When we all finally loved it, we put it out there and it was featured in a lot of media articles. It became the centrepiece of dinner tables over the holidays and a kind of conversation piece or a host gift. That really helped spread the word about Sheldon Creek Dairy. People who had always despised eggnog were converted, and now they want more from the source.” Flavoured milks have grown into one of the most unique and popular aspects of the dairy’s business, and have moved beyond eggnog to creative flavours like Pumpkin Spice, Salted Caramel and now Banana. Their popular Neapolitan flavour was actually born out of a production calamity. When Bonnie and John went on a short vacation to visit another dairy in Alberta, the girls were left in charge of the farm and dairy. Some of the natural strawberry flavouring was accidentally mixed into the chocolate milk on the production line — a mistake that was uncovered at a 4H meeting Emily was hosting. The hybrid milk flavour was actually delicious and tasted just like Neapolitan ice cream. Not wanting to waste the product or upset their parents, Marianne and Emily jumped into action. When Bonnie and John were asked about their “new product” while on their dairy tour, they were puzzled. Later, they discovered Sheldon Creek Dairy had launched a new flavour, “Neapolitan Milk” on social media. It sold out and has become a regular offering at the dairy. While it’s no surprise that children rave about their flavoured milks, the den Haans also develop their flavour profiles with professional and home mixologists in mind. “Our creamsicle milk is amazing with vodka”, Marianne says. “When we’re developing a new flavour, we always think about how it might be elevated in a cocktail or mocktail. Already our customers are sharing plans to add Irish cream liqueur to our new S’mores flavour. Some of their ideas are incredible.” Family gatherings are joyful, loud affairs and usually take place at Bonnie’s house. The heart of the house has always been the kitchen island, and when Bonnie and John built their “retirement house”, they designed their new island twice the size. Marianne admits that it’s hard to separate work from life in a family-owned business. “At our gatherings, we eat and drink and talk about the industry. I feel a little bad for those who have joined our family. My husband Mike does not come from a farming family, but he’s learned an incredible amount at those dinners. When we come together we exchange our collective knowledge about various aspects of the industry.” Emily acknowledges that family celebrations still revolve around farm realities, but insists that these are some of her favourite parts of holidays and gatherings. “We’d always head out to the barn to do our chores before enjoying our day and each others’ company. We still celebrate the same way.” Bonnie and John’s greatest source of pride has been “watching the kids make the business their own. Emily just changed all the feed rations in the barn, and Marianne just developed clotted cream. We’ve built up the farm and have been through a lot.” “There’s no greater joy than driving down the road and looking at what you have and thinking about where it has come from and all the stories that intertwined to get it to where it is today.” says Marianne. “Seeing that hard work and love and watching it come to fruition; it’s prosperous because there was no alternative. All of the opportunities and the future – there’s something so exciting about that. If my opa and oma were still here and they saw what the farm is now, they’d be shocked, but they’d be so proud.”

The Speck brothers helm Henry of Pelham, one of Ontario’s oldest and most respected family estate wineries. They are stewards of a legacy that reaches back to 1794 when great-great-great grandfather Nicholas Smith was deeded the land where the winery stands today. In 1842, in jest, his son Henry signed the name “Henry of Pelham” to the liquor licence for a tavern he’d built on the land, a tongue-in-cheek reference to a previous British prime minister. That hint of irreverence, mischief and fun are family traits that have clearly endured through the generations. Paul, the eldest brother, runs business operations, while middle brother Matt is the viticulturist, and Daniel, the youngest, heads sales and marketing. While all three brothers grew up working in the vines, in adulthood they found their natural place to flourish within the family business. They actively collaborate on all aspects of the winery operation while respecting each others’ individual strengths and expertise. When it comes to gatherings, Speck family affairs are admittedly a little raucous. “We’ll often have friends—stragglers without families—join us for our holiday gatherings and they often remark that it’s “loud”.” says Matt. “Because the three of us studied philosophy, the conversation ranges from business, to politics, to literature to family stuff. There’s a lot of business and politics in the discussion,” says Paul. “We’re a In a clear parallel with the den Haan family’s experience, the Specks acknowledge that there is little separation between work and home, and that family gatherings are often the setting for conversations that lead to business and innovation. “ It’s always business,” says Paul. “We could get into a sidebar about launching a new brand while we’re tasting a wine; and then someone will sketch it out on a napkin. That’s what makes it unique, but it’s not for everyone. Most people like to leave work behind when they go home. We’re the opposite. Last Thanksgiving, over dinner, we started talking about this little building on the property we can’t use for the business because it’s too small. That turned into the restoration of a 200 year old barn. It went from, “Where do we store our stuff?” to a full-blown heritage building restoration project over dinner. It’s going to be beautiful when we’re done with it.” Matt shares that the building is a swing beam barn built in the 1830s by Henry’s brother, John N. “We have both their tombstones behind the winery, actually. In the late 1800s, it was converted from a swing beam barn into a dairy barn. It had been raised and has this beautiful stone foundation where the dairy cows would have been, with hay storage above. It’s in amazing condition. As we’re no longer dairy farmers and family of talkers,” Daniel elaborates.