LCBO Food & Drink Autumn 2023

Repeat Performance from page 184

2 lbs (905 g) cod or halibut fillets Canola oil for frying 12 small corn or flour tortillas 1 1/2 cups (375 mL) all-purpose flour 1 tsp (5 mL) salt 1/2 tsp (2 mL) granulated garlic 1/2 tsp (2 mL) ground chipotle 1 tsp (5 mL) ground cumin 3/4 cup (175 mL) ice-cold lager 1 large egg, lightly beaten 2 cups (500 mL) finely shredded

9. Remove skillet from oven and transfer roast to a carving board. Cover with a dish towel and let it rest for 10 to 15 minutes. 10. To serve, carve roast into thin slices against the grain (from the widest edge to the narrow point). Arrange on a platter. Spoon some of the sauce over the meat and serve the rest on the side. Serves 6 to 8 TIP If you can only find steaks, they are usually about 1 lb (455 g). Season well and sear the fat cap until crispy then fry about 5 minutes per side, or until the desired degree of done ness is reached. Let sit for 10 minutes, then cut against the grain. Serve with the sauce. FISH TACOS Tacos—or, more specifically, tacos that look and taste like they do in Mexico—have followed the Mexican diaspora to Ontario. They’ve become mainstays on restaurant menus, and lots of grocery stores, even outside of Toronto, carry real-deal corn tortillas now. Ask a stranger about cochinita or suadero tacos, and you’ll likely get a blank stare. Baja-style fish tacos, on the other hand, are everyone’s lunch language, probably because they involve crispy, beer-­ battered fish not at all unlike the kind found beside chips and a bottle of malt vinegar. If you want to cut to the chase here, you can purchase a good-quality pico de gallo salsa and skip making the (very untraditional but totally delicious) briny shrimp salsa. The New Classics from page 91

SIRLOIN CAP ROAST WITH RED WINE UMAMI SAUCE

The following method works for most roasts and you can replace sirloin cap with a large piece of top sirloin steak or rump. For a fast weeknight dinner, use flank steak seared and pan-cooked. The sauce will enhance the steak. Serve with creamed potatoes, roasted green cabbage and a zucchini, tomato and red onion salad. 2 to 3 lb (905 g to 1.36 kg) sirloin cap roast (see TIP) Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper 2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil 1 cup (250 mL) red wine, preferably Pinot Noir 2 tbsp (30 mL) balsamic vinegar 1/4 cup (60 mL) light miso 2 cups (500 mL) beef or chicken stock 1 tsp (5 mL) chili crisp or chili oil, or to taste 1/4 cup (60 mL) unsalted butter 2. Season sirloin cap generously on all sides with kosher salt and black pepper. 3. Heat a large oven-safe skillet or roasting pan over medium-high heat. When hot, add olive oil and swirl to coat bottom of the pan. 4. Place roast fat side down and sear for about 5 minutes or until it is a deep brown. Flip meat and sear the second side for 5 minutes more. 5. Place a rack over the skillet or a roasting pan, add roast and transfer to oven. Roast for about 45 minutes to 1 hour or until a meat ther mometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat registers 130°F (54°C) for medium-rare or 140°F (60°C) for medium. 6. While roast is cooking, make the sauce. In a small saucepan, whisk together the wine and balsamic vinegar. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat, and boil until reduced to 1/4 cup (60 mL), about 10 minutes, whisking occasionally. Whisk in miso, stock and chili crisp. 1. Preheat oven to 300°F (149°C).

white or purple cabbage Limes wedges, for serving

1. For the Smoky Mayocream, stir together sour cream, mayonnaise, chipotle and lime juice. Add water a little at a time until cream can be drizzled. Season with salt and set aside. 2. To make the Shrimp Salsa, combine all but the salt and pepper in a small non-reactive bowl; season to taste and set aside.

3. Cut the fish into 12 equal-sized fingers.

4. Pour oil to a depth of 1 1/2 inches (4 cm) in a medium-size pot. Bring to 350°F (177°C).

5. Meanwhile, warm the tortillas in a dry skillet and wrap in a kitchen towel. 6. In a medium-size bowl, whisk together flour, salt, garlic, chipotle and cumin. Divide flour mixture in half by removing 3/4 cup (175 mL) to a second bowl. Whisk beer and egg into one half of flour mixture. 7. Working in batches, coat fish in batter, then roll in dry flour mixture. Gently slide into oil. Cook 4 minutes total, turning halfway through, until golden and crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon to a rack set over a paper towel–lined baking sheet. 8. To serve, place a piece of fish in each tortilla, followed by a generous pinch of cabbage. Spoon salsa overtop. Drizzle with mayocream and serve straight away with a wedge of lime.

SMOKY MAYOCREAM 2/3 cup (150 mL) sour cream 3 tbsp (45 mL) mayonnaise 1/2 tsp (2 mL) ground chipotle 1 tbsp (15 mL) lime juice 1 to 2 tbsp (15 to 30 mL) water Salt

SHRIMP SALSA 3 medium-size ripe tomatoes, seeded and diced 1/2 small red onion, diced 2 to 3 tbsp (10 to 15 mL) finely chopped pickled jalapeño 1 clove garlic, finely chopped

Serves 4 to 6

WHAT TO SERVE Creekside Sauvignon Blanc VQA LCBO 620724, $15.95

7. Simmer 10 to 15 minutes longer or until reduced by about half and thickened slightly.

3 oz (85 g) cooked shrimp, chopped 1/4 cup (60 mL) finely chopped cilantro 1 tbsp (15 mL) lime juice 1 tbsp (15 mL) pickled jalapeño brine Salt and pepper

Sauvignon Blanc is an excellent match for our fish tacos. Citrus and herbal flavours harmonize with the dish’s components. The crisp acidity balances the pairing.

8. Remove from heat and whisk in butter until melted and well incorporated. Reheat sauce gently when ready to serve.

168 FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2023