LCBO Food & Drink Autumn 2023

PLAYING FAVOURITES

The Vodka Martini Gin drinkers may frown, but the Vodka Martini has a considerable following—the best cocktail for appreciating a vodka’s ethereal personality.

HISTORY

Let us skip gratefully over the tangled jungle of theory concerning the origins of the Gin Martini. The earliest use of the precise term “Vodka Martini” seems to be in The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks by American tax attorney David A. Embury, published in 1948. (In later editions, he called the drink a Kangaroo, though the cocktail has no connection with Australia.) Vodka was an exotic ingredient in the 1940s, inextricably associated with Eastern Europe. And that was still the case when Sean Connery’s James Bond first ordered one in the movie Dr. No (1962); though it’s the waiter who described it, not 007: “One medium-dry Vodka Martini, mixed like you said, Sir, and not stirred.” An Englishman who preferred shaking vodka to stirring gin!? Clearly a new age was dawning.

The Classic Online, in September 2019, we kind of hedged our bets, suggesting 2 oz of vodka or gin , and 1/2 oz dry vermouth—or less, “to your liking.” Even the lemon twist garnish had an optional alternative in a green cocktail olive. But isn’t that the point about a Martini? The simplest cocktail of them all presents infinite opportunities for personalisation. The only common ground is that it must be served very, very cold. My own vodka of choice at the moment is Zirkova One Ultra Premium Vodka ( LCBO 638197, $39.45 )—so smooth with fennel, vanilla and lemon aromas.

THE TWISTS

Swap out the dry white vermouth for sake or icewine or, less controversially, fino sherry. A particularly harmonious combination results from using peppery, spicy Aurora Crystal Head wheat vodka ( LCBO 463539, $79.95 ) and Tio Pepe Extra Dry Fino sherry ( LCBO 231829, $19.95 ), and garnishing with an orange twist. This vodka has the edginess to stand up to such a forthright fino.

Once upon a time, a dash of orange bitters was essential in a Martini. That detail seems to have vanished but could easily be restored with any kind of modern bitters, not to mention olive or caper brine. The spirit-vermouth ratio is key. Embury liked 7 to 1; Winston Churchill merely glanced at the vermouth bottle. Somewhere in between is “in and out”—rinsing the glass with a little vermouth then pouring it away.

Find the recipe at LCBO.com/ fdautumn23

50 FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2023