LCBO Food & Drink Holiday 2020

Wines for the big bird Red or white with roast turkey? Either—or, better yet, both! Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are my favourite choices—the weight of the white and the lightness of the red making them ideal table-mates.

Pinot Noir Top-quality Pinot Noir always brings more aromatic complexity than its weight seems able to bear, especially when you open it up, swirling it in a big wine glass.

Good Kim Crawford Pinot Noir ( LCBO 626390, $22.95). Perennially pleasing point of entry into New Zea- land Pinot Noir, Kim Crawford’s version is translucent, light- weight and tastes of damson, cherry and red berries. Fine tannins take a dis- tant back seat. Better Chanson Réserve du Bastion Bourgogne Pinot Noir ( VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 050575, $24.95). Very good value, this Pinot Noir leaps up in quality from less expensive Burgundies. Tangy and intense, it’s full of cherry and raspberry with deeper notes that conjure up a forest floor. Best Hidden Bench Estate Organic Pinot Noir VQA ( VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 274753, $34.95). Subtle but oh so seductive, this elegant Ontario Pinot entices you into its world of cherries, ripe red plums and the scent of violets. Spicy oak is deftly woven, everything held in place by a sly acidity.

Chardonnay Rich and ripe from California, sleek and elegant from cooler climes such as Niagara or Burgundy, oaked or unoaked, Chardonnay is endlessly fascinating.

Good Raymond Family Classic Chardonnay ( LCBO 269753, $16.95). California Chardonnay can be so appealing when oak is scarcely used—as here, add- ing the merest hints of nutmeg and vanilla to juicy tropical fruit aromas. Creamy and vo- luptuously textured, this wine is a real crowd-pleaser.

better Malivoire Estate Grown Chardonnay VQA ( VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 573147, $19.95). Clean and bright, with a trace of lime sharpening the pear and apple flavours, this is classic Niagara Benchland Chardonnay. There’s smooth weight and hints of spice and minerality, but all so sleek and closely braided together.

best Bouchard Père & Fils Pouilly-Fuissé ( VINTAGES

56580, $34.95). Why was white Burgundy the gold standard for Chardonnay for so long? The flawless elegance, subtlety and silky texture of this Mâcon movie star explains why. Nothing is obvious except its amazing length and cool insoucience.

144 

HOLIDAY 2020 FOOD & DRINK