LCBO Food & Drink Autumn 2015

AUTUMN 2015

GIVE SPAGHETTI NIGHT A MAKEOVER.

Say goodbye to the same old pasta. PC ® Black Label Orecchiette Pasta is made in Italy from a single origin wheat and extruded through bronze dies for a texture sauce can cling to – sauce like our PC ® Black Label Sun-Dried Tomato Pesto. One taste of our Orecchiette in this Roasted & Sun-Dried Tomato dish and spaghetti night will never be the same.

Orecchiette with Roasted & Sun- dried Tomatoes

INGREDIENTS

PC ® Grape Tomatoes,

2 pkg

halved lengthwise

(each 255 g)

1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil ¼ tsp (1 mL) salt 1 jar (191 mL)

PC ® Black Label Sun- Dried Tomato Pesto grated PC ® Black Label Hard Ripened Sovrano Cheese freshly ground black pepper PC ® Black Label Orecchiette Pasta

cup (75 mL)

½ tsp (2 mL) salt ¼ tsp (1 mL)

1 pkg (500 g)

thinly sliced fresh

½ cup (125 mL)

basil

instructions

1. Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Line rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. 2. Toss together tomatoes, oil and 1/4 tsp (1 mL) salt in bowl; spread onto prepared baking sheet. Roast in centre of oven for 25 minutes or until shrivelled. 3. Meanwhile, combine pesto, cheese, 1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt and pepper in large bowl. 4. Bring large pot of salted water to a boil. Add pasta; stir occasionally until water returns to a boil. Cook for 9 to 11 minutes or until tender but frm. Drain, reserving 1 cup (250 mL) of the pasta cooking water. Toss pasta with pesto mixture. Add half of reserved pasta cooking water and toss again. Add more water if necessary to loosen sauce, adding 1/4 cup (50 mL) at a time. Stir in basil. 5. Divide pasta among six bowls; spoon tomatoes over top. Serve with additional grated or shaved cheese, if desired.

Find all our fall-inspired recipes at pc.ca/blacklabel

All trademarks & logos are trademarks of Loblaws Inc. © 2015 Loblaws Inc. All rights reserved.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

FEATURES

102 GRAPE EXPECTATIONS By James Chatto

70 RUSTIC FEAST 

By Christopher St. Onge Full of the ripe abundance of fall, this delectably casual menu will feed a crowd.

Local winemakers share why Riesling excels in Ontario, plus 10 iconic bottles so good they must be tasted to be believed.

110 FAMILY-STYLE ENTERTAINING By Lucy Waverman

80 A WEEKEND AWAY By Chris Johns

From fried chicken to vegetarian options, heaping platters on the table let everyone sample as much or little as they like. ON THE COVER Johnny Apple Cocktail, recipe on page 144. Photography by James Tse

Teeming with fine food, drink, hotels and shops, Prince Edward County makes for a fun and easy getaway.

94 SPELLBINDING SUPPER By Eshun Mott

Make the most of Halloween falling on a Saturday night, charming your guests with spooky décor and an enchanting party supper.

110

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2015 5

TABLE OF CONTENTS

DEPARTMENTS

FOOD

TWISTS OLIVE OIL DESSERTS  By Signe Langford Baked cakes imbued with the fabulous flavour of olive oil— ideal for the last warm afternoons on the deck.

43

SEASONAL KALE . By Christopher St. Onge

53

Prepare to reconsider kale with four new recipes—including a superb Thanksgiving stu ng—that do wonders with this superfood. QUICK & EASY FALLING FOR FRITTERS  By Amy Rosen Light yet satisfying suppers that are easy to pull together on a weeknight or for informal entertaining.

127

127

FLAVOURS PURE & SIMPLE  By Heather Trim

135

Nut butters are all-natural testaments to genuine flavour, plus they’re so easily made sweet or savoury with di erent ingredients.

IN EVERY ISSUE

EDITOR’S NOTES

10

DRINK

A SPLASH OF CIDER The earthy flavours of hard cider are versatile and go splendidly with white meat, especially the Thanksgiving turkey. WHAT’S NEW A selection of products from around the world available at the LCBO and Vintages. MUST-HAVES Things we love for entertaining and around the house. TRENDSPOTTING Our experts suggest what to Eat, Drink and Try this season.

17

SPIRITS  TALL, DARK & HANDSOME  By Eric Vellend Uniquely nuanced, these cocktails o er a depth of flavour perfect for fall with a hint of summery refreshment.

37

19

BEER HIP HOPS  By Stephen Beaumont

61

24

Single-hop beers pinpoint the true flavours and aromas of di erent types of hops, which are instrumental in creating distinctive brews.

27

LOCAL THE ART OF ARTISANS  By James Chatto

119

RECIPE INDEX

166

SOURCE RESOURCE

166

Working with passion and pride, three small producers of exceptional wine, spirits and cider create products well worth seeking out.

SPOTLIGHT Wylie Mycologicals Ltd.: Just north of Owen Sound, Bill and Micky Wylie produce exotic mushrooms in a rainbow of colours.

168

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN

THE ALL-NEW XC90. OUR IDEA OF LUXURY.

What is luxury? To us, it starts with people and what really matters: simplicity, confdence, connection. It’s why the all-new XC90 is not only the safest Volvo ever, it’s the most innovative. We’ve simplifed the complex, designed technologies to be more intuitive, and given equal thought to each of the seven seats. The result? Every journey ends with you more relaxed than when you started. That’s our idea of luxury. That’s the all-new XC90. To learn more, visit your local Volvo retailer or go to volvocars.ca

European model shown. Features and equipment may vary in Canada. Visit www.volvocars.ca for complete details on Canadian models. See your participating Volvo retailer for details. © 2015 Volvo Cars of Canada Corp., 9130 Leslie St., Suite 101, Richmond Hill, ON, L4B 0B9. Always remember to wear your seat belt.

Publication Director & S.V.P. Sales & Marketing ........... Nancy Cardinal

Editor ............................................... Jody Dunn Art Director ................................... Karen Lim Senior Editor ................................. James Chatto Food Editor ..................................... Lucy Waverman Contributing Editors .................. Charlene Rooke, Kat Tancock Publication Coordinator .......... Leslie Virdo Senior Designer ........................... Cathy Cicchini Graphic Designer ....................... Pat Turbach Production Manager ................. Mark Greene Production Coordinator ........... Judy Haverkort Publication Assistant ............... Piper MacFadyen Production Assistant ................. Everton Smith Food Stylists .................................. Eshun Mott, Christopher St. Onge Prop Stylists .................................. Catherine MacFadyen, Andrea McCrindle, Lara McGraw, Shelly Shnier Contributors .................................. Julia Aitken, Stephen Beaumont, Cynthia David, Michelle P. E. Hunt, Chris Johns, Anna Kohn,

COMING NEXT ISSUE ALTERNATIVE MAINS Not a turkey fan? You have delicious options FIRST IMPRESSIONS Welcoming drinks to start the party THE BIG FINISH Dessert recipes for a grand finale CHRISTMAS PARTY 101 Essential tips from food to music and décor

Signe Langford, Ann Lough, Brenda Morrison, Eshun Mott, Laura Panter, Amy Rosen, Christopher St. Onge, Heather Trim, Eric Vellend, Tonia Wilson‑Vuksanovic

Publisher ........................................ Wayne Leek

For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about LCBO products and policy please contact helloLCBO online at hellolcbo.com, or call toll-free 1•800•668•5226 or 416•365•5900. TTY Only: 416•864•6898 or 1•800•361•3291. For advertising in Food & Drink magazine, please contact Keystone Media, 416•224•1500 or e-mail foodanddrink@keystonemedia.ca. All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the LCBO’s advertising agreement. Food & Drink is published six times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Volume 23, Number 1. Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 percent post-consumer fibre. Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs.

Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Drink , 55 Lake Shore Boulevard East, Toronto, ON, M5E 1A4 ISSN 1195-5988

WATCH FOR THE HOL I DAY I S S UE OF

AVA I LABLE NOVEMBER 4

Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all LCBO stores.

PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE. Cette publication est également disponible en français.

8  FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2015

Our place or yours?

Celebrate the harvest with family.

Can’t join us in Niagara for one-of-a-kind touring and tasting experiences and Chef Jason Parsons’ inspired farm-to-table cuisine?

Join our Peller Estates Wine Club and we’ll send a little piece of wine country directly to your door each month.

EDITOR’S NOTES

We know summer can be a busy time, and before the hectic holidays hit, we wanted this issue to have a more casual and relaxed feel— leaving you time to enjoy the season and whatever the occasion may be. Whether you’re gathering the gang for a meal or planning a drive to take in the fall colours, this issue o ers plenty of inspiration—from road trips to the Thanksgiving feast.    Autumn is an amazing time for exploring Ontario and this year, starting on page 80, we have plotted “A Weekend Away” in beautiful Prince Edward County. Last fall, we sent a photographer and a writer to find the places to eat and stay and things to do and see in “The County” for a perfect fall getaway. If you prefer to do your exploring by the glass, turn to James Chatto’s Ontario Riesling feature (page 102) where he talks to Niagara winemakers about why Riesling excels here and shares 10 must-try bottles. James also shines a spotlight on three local artisanal wine, spirit and cider producers (page 119) whose products are well worth seeking out. Meanwhile, on page 61, Stephen Beaumont has assembled a collection of Ontario craft beers that each showcase the aroma and flavour of a single hop. Gather up a few for a unique beer tasting party with friends!

   If you haven’t noticed yet, Halloween falls on a Saturday this year, so what bet- ter reason to throw a grown-up dinner party? Starting on page 94, we’ve got delicious recipes—each with a spooky look—and simple décor touches to help you create a “Spellbinding Supper.” Make it easier by dividing up the menu and having everyone bring a course. Or, take advantage of the last few weekends of summer and rotate through with friends the deliciously flavoured, moist olive-oil cakes on page 43, savouring the last warm days on the deck with Sunday afternoon cake and co ee get-togethers.    And last but not least, Thanksgiv- ing means family—and food. With that relaxed feel still in mind, this issue o ers several tasty alternatives to the traditional feast. Instead of turkey, a gor- geous porchetta roast lies at the heart of our “Rustic Feast” on page 70. Serving food “family-style” is becoming a trend in restaurants that easily translates to home. Any of Lucy Waverman’s four platters of plenty starting on page 110— including fried chicken, steak, salmon and an all-vegetable option—would surely satisfy a Thanksgiving crowd. If turkey is still a must, our Cider Roasted Turkey with Apple, Bacon and Pecan Stu ng on page 17 is a fresh—and deli- cious—take on the traditional bird.    We feel this issue really suits the sea- son and hope you think so too. Enjoy!

PORTRAIT BY STACEY BRANDFORD

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN

ONTARIO SUPERSTARS Cool autumn evenings call for a hearty meal and a glass of delicious Ontario wine. Choose from our curated selection of wines and recipes and taste local this fall.

ANGELS GATE RIESLING VQA 160523 750 mL $13.95 LIGHT & CRISP D 8 /L

HOUSEWINE CO. BACO CABERNET SAUVIGNON VQA 279521 750 mL $12.95 MEDIUM BODIED & FRUITY M 18 g/L MALIVOIRE GAMAYVQA 591313 750 mL $17.95 MEDIUM BODIED & FRUITY D 10 g/L * VINTAGES ESSENTIALS

SEARED PORK CHOPS WITH SAUTÉED PEACHES & ROSEMARY INFUSED HONEY

Scan the code for this recipe or visit lcbo.recipes/5704

ROASTED BEEF TENDERLOIN WITH CARAMELIZED SHALLOTS AND RED WINE SAUCE

Scan the code for this recipe or visit lcbo.recipes/5703

Featured products available at select LCBO stores. Prices subject to change without notice. *VintagesEssentialsCollection isalwaysavailable atmanyLCBO locations.Visitvintages.com.

22496

Superb quality. Exceptional value. Always Available. The finely crafted wines in our Essentials Collection make exploring the world of wine easy. View the entire collection of 130 proven favourites, handpicked by our experts. vintages.com/essentials

Great with lamb MARCHESI DE’ FRESCOBALDI TENUTA DI CASTIGLIONI IGT Tuscany, Italy 145920 750mL $21.95 Full-bodied & Firm Great with seafood OYSTER BAY SAUVIGNON BLANC Marlborough, New Zealand 316570 750mL $18.95 Aromatic & Flavourful Great with spicy Asian foods TAWSE QUARRY ROAD RIESLING VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario 198853 750mL $23.95 Aromatic & Flavourful

Great with smoked meats LAN CRIANZA DOCa Rioja, Spain

166538 750mL $15.95 Medium-bodied & Fruity

Prices subject to change without notice. Available in Vintages locations at select LCBO stores.

BOLD, JUICY, RIPE ROBUST .

and

New Cabernet Sauvignon

BE BOLD. BE SMOOTH. BE BODACIOUS.

Please drink responsibly.

A SPLASH OF CIDER BY TONIA WILSON-VUKSANOVIC  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE

THE PROOF IS IN THE FLAVOUR WHEN YOU COOK WITH CIDER.

Everyone is familiar with using wine as a flavour booster in the kitchen, but why not try adding cider to some of your favourite dishes? Autumn is a perfect time to showcase the magnificence of the apple, and the earthy flavours of hard cider go splendidly with pork, chicken and, of course, turkey.     Hard cider is made from tart apples using varieties well-suited to a crisp final product. The term “hard” refers to the alcohol in the fermented version, as opposed to non-alcoholic cider. Historically, it has been produced in areas where apples grow in abundance—think England, northern France and Canada. If you lived in an area that was too cold to grow grapes, you prob- ably grew apples and then fermented them into a tasty, refreshing drink.     When choosing a cider for cooking, make sure to pick something that is relatively dry, meaning with little sweetness. Ciders that are produced in a more traditional style will work best for this recipe, and great examples to look for are Samuel Smith’s Organic Cider ( LCBO 374538, 4 pk, $13.45) from the U.K., Spirit Tree Draught Cider ( LCBO 413153, 473 mL, $2.65) from Caledon, Ont., and Woodchuck Hard Cider ( LCBO 333914, 6 pk, $13.75) from Vermont.

CIDER-ROASTED TURKEY WITH APPLE, BACON & PECAN STUFFING recipes on pages 158 & 159

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2015 17

PROUDLY CANADIAN 20 + ONTARIO LOCATIONS

WHAT’S NEW COPY BY JULIA AITKEN  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI AND MICHAEL MAHOVLICH

A WORLD OF NEW PRODUCTS AT THE LCBO AND VINTAGES.

Black Bottle Blended ScotchWhisky LCBO 409425, $32.95 First distilled more than 130 years ago, this blended whisky has a rich, slightly smoky taste with notes of chocolate and wood, mak- ing it a surprisingly complex Scotch at this price point. Appropriately, the distillery has reinstated the distinctive black glass bottle—changed to green in 1914—fromwhich the whisky gets its name. THE NEW BLACK

HE SCORES! No. 99 Wayne Gretzky Baco Noir VQA LCBO 426528, $15.95 Combine two Canadian superstars— Ontario’s best-loved hockey great and one of the province’s most popular red grapes—and you get a rich, ripe wine with big personal- ity. This earthy red has flavours of spice, leather and juicy black fruit. It’s a must with a grilled rib-eye on a mild autumn evening… and for the season’s first NHL game.

Cheval Quancard Réserve Bordeaux Blanc LCBO 401604, $13.90 WELL-BRED WHITE

The elegant equine label is fitting for a wine whose château originally housed a stud farm. What’s in the bottle is a thoroughbred, too. The textbook oak-aged white Bordeaux is lively enough to sip on those last warm weekends on the deck, but has sufficient body to team happily with chicken, veal, fish or shellfish.

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2015 19

WHAT ’ S NEW

SATISFYING DRAM The Glenlivet Founder’s Reserve LCBO 410043, $52.95 The founder in question is George Smith who began distilling The Glenlivet almost 200 years ago. Glenlivet’s modern-day master distiller selects whiskies from a variety of aged oak casks to create this well-balanced, smooth single malt. Watch for delicate citrus aro- mas followed by flavours of orange, pear and candy apple, and a long, creamy finish.

A BRIGHT, BOLD BREW Goose Island India Pale Ale LCBO 434084, 473 mL, $2.90 India Pale Ale (a.k.a. IPA) is so-called be- cause, back in the days of no refrigeration, ales shipped from England to India were highly hopped to preserve their flavour on the long voyage. This multi-award- winning Chicago brew ramps up the traditional English IPA style with bright citrus aromas and a bold, hoppy finish. Pour with curry or pulled pork on a bun.

TIME WELL SPENT Jacob’s Creek Double Barrel Shiraz LCBO 419986, $19.95 True to its name, Double Barrel Shiraz, from Barossa in South Aus- tralia, starts off in American oak but, before bottling, spends time in Scotch whisky barrels. The result is a full, generous red with character- istic notes of red fruit and chocolate. And, the whisky barrels? Well, they soften the tannins and create a wine of incredible smoothness.

20  FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2015

TO SEE THIS WEEKEND’S EVENTS VISIT INDIGO.CA/WEEKEND

Snap & share your #INDIGOWEEKEND. /@chaptersindigo

!ndigo, Chapters, Coles and indigo.ca are trademarks of Indigo Books & Music Inc.

Furniture provided by Elte.com

WHAT ’ S NEW

CALIFORNIA HARVEST

PASTA PERFECT Rocca delle Macìe Chianti Classico VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 741769, $18.95

Today’s Chianti Classico wines are high- quality reds with polish and finesse that are food-friendly and versatile, too. One such is this well-priced wine from respected producer Rocca delle Macìe. Full of intense flavours of cherry, peppery spice, herbs and a touch of oak, it’s perfetto with any hearty pasta, but especially meat lasagna.

Meiomi Pinot Noir VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 130138, $26.95 Each of the California wine areas—Monterey, Sonoma and Santa Barbara—that provide grapes for this memorable Pinot Noir bring their classic characteristics to the wine. With rich texture from Monterey, So- noma’s bright berry flavours and spice from Santa Barbara, this— a newVINTAGES ESSENTIAL— is wonderful with roast lamb.

FIRE AND ICE Bacardi Carta Fuego  LCBO 417253, $29.95

The name is Spanish for fire; the flavour is tropical spice. Add a year of aging in torched oak barrels and this bold red rum gets a hint of smokiness too. Chill it down and pour over ice with cola, or sip neat, kicking the spice up a notch with a splash of Tabasco.

22  FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2015

START WITH CRACKER BARREL • END WITH AMAZING

SHREDS Introducing

MUST -HAVES SPECIAL TOUCHES TO ADD SPARKLE AND EASE TO YOUR THANKSGIVING—AND HALLOWEEN—ENTERTAINING. BY BRENDA MORRISON  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

LIQUID ASSETS If you’re in the habit of opening a fine whisky with a few drops of water, for the ultimate experience, use Uisge Source Water of Scotland ($8, 100 mL bottle), sourced from the same locations where premium single malts are made. Speyside, Islay and Highland regions are available at BYOB Emporium (Toronto, 416•858•2932, byobto.com).

GRATE EXPECTATIONS Freshly grated salt is a new trend favoured by foodies. Kikkerland’s Rivsalt ($34 for a three-piece set, salt refills are $6.50) offers a stylish way to in- troduce this tasteful idea at the dinner table, using a stainless-steel grater and pink Himalayan rock salt, presented on a beechwood stand. Available at Bergo Designs (Toronto, 416•861•1821, bergo.ca).

SCARY GOOD Take a bite on the dark side with Toronto-based arti- san chocolatier Laura Slack’s signature Dulce Skulls ($10 for three). Handpainted with copper lustre, these unconventional dark chocolate truffles—filled with rich dulce de leche—are exquisite works of edible art and make a great hostess gift for Halloween dinner parties. For stores: lauraslack.com; to shop online: foodiepages.ca.

24  FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2015

PUT A LID ON IT Reusable Silicon Suction Lids from NOW Designs ($16, set of three) create an airtight seal over bowls, pots and pans— making them ideal when heating food in the oven, keeping it warm at the table, storing leftovers in the fridge or reheating in the microwave. Choose from four colours. For retailers: 1•888•632•6422.

HAUTE BOAT Keep your gravy hot at the dinner table with the HeatTHAT! Gravy set ($24.95), featuring a ceramic gravy boat with a revolutionary coaster. After being activated for a minute in the microwave, the coaster works like a hot plate to keep gravy warm for up to one hour—without cords or batteries. For retailers: 1•888•632•6422.

MAKE A STATEMENT Inspired by vintage museum visitor tags, reusable metal Big Occasion Tab-a-lets ($2.95) are a unique way to celebrate milestones. Also available in individual letters, numbers and symbols ($1 each) to personalize place settings or decorate gifts. At Presto Paper and Home (Toronto, 416•513•1011, prestopaperandhome.com).

BASTER ’ S CHOICE Helping you prepare a perfectly cooked turkey, the Joseph Joseph ThermoBaste ($29.99) is a cleverly designed three-piece roasting and basting set. When not in use, both the leave-in thermometer and the cleaning brush fit inside the baster for compact storage. For retailers: danescoinc.com.

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN

REAL APPLES REAL CIDER

Strongbow now available in the classic refreshing, bittersweet taste of British Dry, and the subtly sweeter taste of Gold Apple. Go ahead. Take your pick.

MUST BE LEGAL DRINKING AGE.

TREND SPOTTING BY KAT TANCOCK  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

WHAT OUR EXPERTS ARE EATING, DRINKING AND BUYING THIS SEASON.

ALTERNATIVE SWEETENERS

Whether in baked goods or beverages, we’re drawn to sweetness—but there are many more options than white or brown, says writer Julia Aitken. A big fan of co- conut sugar, a granular product made of coconut sap, she has also experimented with date sugar (powdered dehydrated dates) and maple sugar (made from maple sap boiled longer than for syrup) and val- ues all three for their rich flavours. Date sugar, which doesn’t dissolve, is best used in recipes such as banana bread where the sugar and fat aren’t creamed, or sprinkled on plain yogurt. Coconut sugar shines atop crème brûlée, she adds, while maple sugar elevates plain shortbread or milky coffee drinks. Find them at health food stores or upscale supermarkets.

A LONGTIME FOOD WRITER, Julia gathers ideas from just about everywhere. “Most of all I like talk- ing to people,” she says. “I got a great pickle recipe years ago from a tow-truck driver.”

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2015 27

TREND SPOTT ING

BEYOND SANGRIA

In their work as the Mar- tini Club, recipe devel- opers and cocktail ex- perts Michelle Hunt and Laura Panter consider it their duty to stay up to date on what’s popu- lar. Lately, one beverage style at the top of their list has been cocktails

IN THEIR 15-PLUS YEARS with Food & Drink , the duo still gets a thrill seeing their creations in the magazine—especially on the cover. “The most exciting one was our Vanilla Pepper Scot” on the Summer 2005 issue. made with wine, such as the Merlot-based Rum Sunset and Autumn Sangaree (recipes page 158), which Michelle suggests making side-by-side as a tasting exercise, to see how the same wine can build into two quite different drinks. Unlike sangria, these beverages are heavier on the spirits and created in single servings. “We try to tease flavours out of what- ever wine we’re using,” says Michelle.

28  FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2015

CHANGE THE WAY YOU SEE LIPSTICK

TRADITIONAL LIPSTICK

VS.

ULTRA HD™

LIPSTICK

© 2015 Revlon

* IN CANADA BRAND LIP

#

REVLON ULTRA HD ™ LIPSTICK LIGHTWEIGHT, HIGH-DEFINITION COLOUR Unique wax-free gel formula for vivid colour in one smooth swipe. 20 standout shades to love.

*Revlon claimbasedondata reportedbyNielsen,52weeksendingMay 30,2015. NationalexcludingNewfoundland.All channelsandCosmetics - Lip.

TREND SPOTT ING

MONOCHROMATIC FLORALS “As a stylist, I’m always doing flowers,” says prop stylist Shelly Shnier. And while mixed arrange- ments were de rigueur in years past, of late she’s fallen for monochromatic florals, a selection of different blooms that are all of the same hue. These types of arrangements bring focus to texture, she says, and are an ideal way to feature fall flowers—she’s a particular fan of dahlias— in seasonal colours such as orange, rust and purple. Arrange them in a planter or a vase, she suggests, and simply include blooms of similar colours, with no added greenery or complemen- tary flowers. “The look is contemporary but more intricate,” she adds. SHELLY’S PASSION FOR FOOD AND WINE —and her love for giving dinner parties—bring huge value to her work choosing and styling props for photo shoots. “You have to know about home entertaining and visu- als,” she explains, “but you also have to know what looks good in certain vessels.”

30  FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2015

THE $17 SOLUTION

The resourceful buyers at Vintages remove the guesswork from your entertaining equation with two hearty fall reds whose provenance, quality and character make them superb values at this price.

Featured products may not be available in all Vintages locations. Visit vintages.com for availability and store locations. Prices subject to change.

21908

ADVERTISING FEATURE

SOUTHERN BELLE A value-packed red blend made from the classic southern Rhône combo of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre – or GSM to those in the know. TESSELLAE CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON OLD VINES GRENACHE/SYRAH/MOURVÈDRE 2013 AP, Midi, France (Domaine Lafage) Elegant with intense dark berry flavours. Delicious with burgers. Full-bodied & Smooth 343517 (XD) 750 mL 2 JUST $17 94 points ( erobertparker.com ) HIGH & MIGHTY From the pioneering winery responsible for Chile’s first-ever hilltop vineyard, this big red shows off the intense flavours that high-altitude growing can create. MONTGRAS ANTU SYRAH 2012 Colchagua Valley, Chile Fruity and smokywith a chocolaty finish. Pairs perfectlywith roast lamb. Full-bodied & Smooth 425900 (XD) 750 mL 2 JUST $17 91 points ( winespectator.com )

Taste Local LOVE LOCAL

Share your experience at

#LCBOtastelocal

SEPTEMBER 13 – OCTOBER 10 TASTE LOCAL Over 100 restaurants across Ontario are pairing local wines-by-the-glass and Ontario craft beers with local fare. Visit any one of these restaurants and discover your local pride. For more details visit lcbo.com/restaurants

Alton Headwaters Restaurant at Millcroft Inn & Spa*

Kingsville Mettawas Station Mediterranean Restaurant*

Toronto 360 the Restaurant at the CN Tower* Against the Grain Urban Tavern at Corus Quay Against the Grain Urban Tavern Leaside Allen's* Annona Restaurant at Park Hyatt Toronto Arriba Restaurant* Café Belong The Craft Brasserie & Grille East Thirty Six FARMHOUSE Tavern* Globe Bistro* Hawthorne Food & Drink* Le Select Bistro The Lakeview Restaurant* Mandarin Rexdale Mandarin Yonge Maple Leaf Tavern Mysteriously Yours Dinner Theatre Nota Bene

North York Mandarin North York

Barrie Mandarin Barrie

Kitchener Borealis Grille & Bar Charcoal Steak House* dels Enoteca Pizzeria* Fork and Cork Grill Mandarin Kitchener Martini's

Oshawa Mandarin Oshawa

Ottawa 107 Fourth Avenue Wine Bar & Café 10fourteen The Albion Rooms at Novotel Ottawa* The Buzz Restaurant Flipper's Restaurant Petit Bill's Bistro* Santé Restaurant & Art Gallery Von's Bistro Wilfrids Restaurant at Fairmont Château Laurier Peterborough The Riverside Grill at Holiday Inn Peterborough Waterfront* Pickering Mandarin Pickering PORT Restaurant | bar-dining room-patio*

Bayfield Black Dog Village Pub & Bistro* The Little Inn of Bayfield*

Brampton Aria Bistro & Lounge Mandarin Brampton Mandarin Brampton West Burlington Mandarin Burlington Son of a Peach Pizzeria* Cambridge Langdon Hall* Napa Grille and Wine Den

London Mandarin London

Maple Sorrento North Ristorante Markham Mandarin Markham Mandarin Markham East

Osgoode Hall Restaurant The Oxley Public House Paintbox Bistro* Posticino Ristorante The Queen & Beaver The Rosedale Diner TOCA at The Ritz-Carleton Vineland StoneHill Grille & Taps Waterloo Proof Kitchen & Lounge RUSHES Restaurant*

Midland The Explorers Cafe

Etobicoke Mandarin Queensway St. Georges Golf & Country Club*

Mississauga The International Centre* Mandarin Erin Mills Mandarin Mississauga

Sault Ste. Marie View Restaurant + Bar*

Guelph Borealis Grille & Bar* Mandarin Guelph Woolwich Arrow Pub* Hamilton Radius* Mandarin Hamilton

Scarborough Mandarin Scarborough

Mono Hockley Valley Resort

Simcoe Barrel Pizza & Spaghetti House Restaurant* The Combine Norfolk County*

Morriston Enver's of Morriston*

Newmarket Mandarin Newmarket

Westport The Cove Country Inn

Huntsville Spencer's Tall Trees Restaurant*

St. Catherines Frescos Euro Grille* Mandarin St. Catherines The Office Tap & Grill

Niagara Falls Elements on the Falls* Lucky's Steakhouse at Casino Niagara* Mandarin Niagara Falls The Flour Mill Restaurant at the Old Stone Inn Boutique Hotel Niagara-on-the-Lake Cannery Restaurant at Pillar and Post Escabèche Restaurant at Prince of Wales Oban Inn* The Irish Harp Pub Tiara Restaurant at Queens Landing

Windsor Neros Steakhouse at Caesars Windsor Rino's Kitchen & Ale House*

Jackson Point The Briars Resort & Spa*

Stratford The Parlour Gastro Pub at The Parlor Inn Pazzo Taverna and Pizzeria* Revival House Rundles*

Jordan Inn on the Twenty*

Woodbridge Mandarin Vaughan

Kingston AquaTerra by Clark at Delta Kingston Waterfront Hotel* Atomica Pizza &Wine Bar Le Chien Noir Bistro Chez Piggy Restaurant & Bar Dianne's Fish Shack & Smokehouse

Thunder Bay Bight Restaurant & Bar Caribou Restaurant +Wine Bar

Harper’s Burger Bar Mandarin Kingston

* We Love Wine Country Ontario – Recognized byWine Country Ontario for their commitment to great Ontario VQAwines. This designation is granted to restaurants whose wine lists contain at least 25%VQA Ontario wine or have 25 Ontario VQAwine listings.

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DRINK SPIRITS

TALL, DARK & HANDSOME BY ERIC VELLEND • PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE

THESE UNIQUELY NUANCED COCKTAILS BRIDGE THE SEASONS— OFFERING A DEPTH OF FLAVOUR PERFECT FOR FALL WHILE RETAINING TRACES OF SUMMERY REFRESHMENT.

JOHNNY APPLE recipe on page 144

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN

SPIRITS  TALL, DARK & HANDSOME

SAILOR’S DELIGHT

A colourful spin on the Dark and Stormy, this drink gets its stunning hue from Simple Syrup infused with hibiscus, a flower used in many herbal teas. If you can find it, splurge on Fever Tree ginger beer; its clean flavour and spicy kick take any cocktail to the next level. 2 oz amber rum 1 oz (30 mL) strained fresh lime juice ½ oz (15 mL) Hibiscus Syrup (recipe p. 158) 2 dashes Angostura Bitters 4 oz (125 mL) ginger beer, chilled Lime wheel to garnish 1 In a chilled highball glass with 2 ice cubes, add rum, lime juice, Hibiscus Syrup and bitters. Stir for 15 seconds. Fill glass with ice. Top with ginger beer. Lightly stir. Garnish with lime wheel. Makes 1 drink

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SPIRITS  TALL, DARK & HANDSOME

Vinifera An ode to winemakers everywhere, this refreshing libation is an autumnal sangria of sorts, but without the flotilla of fruit. To make a rosemary skewer, strip a 4-inch (10‑cm) sprig of two-thirds of its leaves, then cut the bottom on an angle with scissors so it can puncture the grapes. 1 oz brandy or Cognac 2 oz young fruity red wine

1 tsp (5 mL) strained fresh lemon juice 1 tsp (5 mL) Simple Syrup (recipe p. 158) 2 oz (60 mL) white grape juice, chilled 2 oz (60 mL) soda water, chilled Green or Muscat grapes skewered on a rosemary sprig to garnish

1 In a chilled highball glass with 2 ice cubes, add brandy or Cognac, wine, lemon juice and Simple Syrup. Stir for 15 seconds. Fill glass with ice. Top with grape juice then soda. Lightly stir. Garnish with grape-rosemary skewer. Makes 1 drink

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COLOUR YOUR TABLE

Find a retailer at LeCreuset.ca or discover more at a Le Creuset Boutique in Bayview Village and Sherway Gardens in Toronto or on Sussex Drive in Ottawa.

Cookware | Bakeware | Tableware | Accessories

Meet the newest member of our big Italian family.

The all-new Fiat 500X is here, with four doors, seating for five and available all-wheel drive.

*FIAT,ABARTH and the scorpion design are registered trademarks used under license by FCA US LLC.

FOOD TWISTS

MAKE THE MOST OF THE LAST WARM AFTERNOONS ON THE DECK BY INVITING FRIENDS OVER TO SAVOUR THE FABULOUS FLAVOUR THAT OLIVE OIL IMPARTS TO BAKING. OLIVE OIL DESSERTS BY SIGNE LANGFORD • PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

Olive Oil Polenta Bundt Cake with Pine Nuts & Rose-Cardamom Syrup recipes on pages 148 & 149

masked. Never use “pumace” olive oil; it’s a result of chemical processing. Citrus-scented oils are perfect in lemon or orange recipes, but taste first; sometimes the aromas are artificial and too strong. Using olive oil is a great way to cut the animal fat from baking, but it’s not the easiest way to grease cake and muffin pans. Conventional or olive oil nonstick spray works well, and if you’re not trying to avoid dairy completely, go with good old butter.

Baking sweets with olive oil isn’t as unusual as it might sound. In Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisines, olive oil is used in puddings, cakes, breads and cookies. The trick to successfully integrating this healthy fat into desserts is choosing the right oil for the job, and the right recipe for the oil. Olive oil doesn’t like high temperatures, so 350°F (180°C) is ideal. Pure or “light” olive oils are less flavourful than extra virgin, so the taste is more easily

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN

TWISTS  OLIVE OIL DESSERTS

Olive Oil Carrot Cupcakes with Orange Cream Cheese Buttercream

1 tsp (5 mL) maple extract (pure vanilla extract will do in a pinch) ½ cup (125 mL) dried pineapple, chopped, not too fine 1 Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line muffin tins with cupcake papers; set aside. 2 Peel, trim, and grate carrots; measure out 2 cups (5oo mL) and set aside. 3 Drain pineapple through a sieve over a bowl, press as much of the juice out as you can; set pineapple aside. 4 Using a whisk, in a large bowl blend flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, nut- meg and sea salt; break up any clumps. 5 With a wooden spoon, in another large bowl beat together the honey, white and brown sug- ars, molasses, olive oil, eggs and maple extract. Beat until smooth. 6 Pour wet ingredients over dry ingredients all at once, and mix just until moistened, as

Carrot cake is one of the few North American cakes that traditionally calls for oil instead of butter, and because it uses a fair bit, pick a light olive oil—one that won’t impart a big olive flavour. We’ve switched out most of the white sugar for honey and a drop of molasses: it’s tastier, healthier and a little less sweet. 2 to 4 large carrots 1 cup (250 mL) canned crushed pineapple 2 cups (500 mL) all-purpose flour 2 tsp (10 mL) baking powder

you would if making muffins. Do not over-mix, as this causes the cake to be tough. 7 Add the grated carrots, drained pineapple and dried pineapple; stir just to combine. 8 Fill the cupcake liners almost up to the top. Cupcakes are done when a tester or toothpick inserted into the centre of a couple of them comes out clean, about 20 to 30 minutes. 9 Allow cupcakes to cool completely before frosting with Orange Cream Cheese Butter- cream (recipe p. 150). Makes 18 to 20 cupcakes

1 tsp (5 mL) baking soda 2 tsp (10 mL) cinnamon ½ tsp (2 mL) nutmeg ¾ tsp (4 mL) fine sea salt ½ cup (125 mL) liquid honey ¼ cup (60 mL) sugar ¾ cup (175 mL) packed brown sugar

WHAT TO SERVE Sveva’s Orangella Liqueur LCBO 364026, $23.80

Beve Orange Pomelo LCBO 407734, 6 pk, $11.95

2 tbsp (30 mL) molasses ¾ cup (175 mL) olive oil 3 free-range eggs

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DI SCOVER

PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY. ® CERVECERIA MODELO, S. DE R.L. DE C.V.

TWISTS  OLIVE OIL DESSERTS

1 Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Butter or spray with nonstick coating and line bottom of a 5 x 9-inch (12 x 23-cm) loaf pan with parch- ment. Set aside. 2 In a large bowl, using a whisk, blend the yogurt, eggs, lemon zest, vanilla, poppy seeds and sugar. 3 In a small bowl, using a whisk, blend the flour, baking powder and salt, breaking any clumps. 4 Add the dry ingredients to the egg and yogurt mixture; blend until well combined. Add the oil and stir it in. 5 Pour batter into the loaf pan and bake until a cake tester inserted into the centre comes out clean, about 60 minutes. 6 Set a cooling rack over a piece of foil or parchment or on a cookie sheet. You’ll need it later, when you glaze the loaf. 7 Cool the cake in the pan for about 10 min- utes, run a dull knife around the edges, then transfer to the cooling rack.

8 With cake tester or toothpick, poke about a dozen holes into the top—going about half- way through the loaf. 9 Using a pastry brush (a spoon will do in a pinch), spread warm Limoncello-Spiked Lemon Glaze over the still warm cake. You may need to pause to allow the liquid to soak in before adding more, but do use it all up. Brush the sides of the loaf, too! While the loaf cools, make the Candied Lemon Slices. Makes 1 loaf that is 5 x 9 inches (12 x 23 cm) or 2 small loaves

With the addition of Greek yogurt, lemon-fla- voured olive oil and limoncello, we’ve taken the classic lemon loaf up not one, not two, but three notches—at least! Not only does the glaze add yet another layer of flavour, it adds moisture to the crumb and crunch to the crust. Don’t skip this delicious step! 1 cup (250 mL) full-fat, plain Greek yogurt 3 large free run eggs Zest of 1 lemon ½ tsp (2 mL) vanilla extract 3 tbsp (45 mL) poppy seeds 1 cup (250 mL) sugar 1½ cups (375 mL) all-purpose flour 2 tsp (10 mL) baking powder ½ tsp (2 mL) sea salt ¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (60 mL plus 30 mL) lemon-infused olive oil 1 batch Limoncello-Spiked Lemon Glaze (recipe p. 148) Candied Lemon Slices as optional garnish (recipe p. 148)

WHAT TO SERVE Martini & Rossi Asti LCBO 253948, $13.95

Sophia’s Lemoncella LCBO 897645, $20.30

Lemon Yogurt Poppyseed Olive Oil Loaf with Limoncello ‑Spiked Glaze & Candied Lemon Slices

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TWISTS  OLIVE OIL DESSERTS

Pop these decadent minis into the oven just as you sit down to the main course; that way they’ll be warm and tender at dessert time. If baked in pretty ramekins or mini soufflé moulds, they travel well and don’t need to be flipped over. Serve with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or dollop of whipped cream. This recipe can be made with 100 percent almond flour for a gluten-free treat, though the texture will be more like a baked pudding than cake and won’t tolerate being unmoulded. ⅓ cup (80 mL) olive oil, divided, for the ramekins ½ cup (125 mL) maple syrup or treacle, divided 1 cup (250 mL) more or less, pecan halves or pieces ½ cup plus 1 tbsp (125 mL plus 15 mL) unsweetened cocoa ½ cup (125 mL) boiling water 2 tsp (10 mL) almond extract ¾ cup (175 mL) almond flour (ground almonds) ¾ cup (175 mL) all-purpose flour ½ tsp (2 mL) baking soda Pecan Dark Chocolate Olive Oil Mini Upside‑Down Cakes

1 Preheat oven to 325°F (160°C). Butter or coat with nonstick spray the sides of individ- ual ½-cup (125-mL) ramekins or mini soufflé dishes. 2 To each ramekin, add about 1 tsp (5 mL) olive oil and about 2 tsp (10 mL) maple syrup. Add the pecans—arrange neatly or randomly— to cover the bottoms. Set aside in a large roast- ing pan. 3 Put the kettle on to boil, and while you wait, set a sieve over a medium bowl. Measure the cocoa powder into the sieve, shake and press it through with the back of a spoon, crushing any lumps. 4 When the kettle boils, whisk the water into the cocoa to make a smooth, almost runny paste. Whisk in the almond extract and set aside. 5 In a medium bowl, mix the flours, baking soda and salt. Set aside. 6 In the bowl of a stand mixer (or in large bowl with hand mixer), add the sugar, olive oil and eggs and beat on medium-high until the mixture becomes pale yellow and well-aerated, about 3 minutes.

to get all the precious cocoa out of the bowl and into the oil mixture! 8 Add the dry mixture and continue to beat on medium-high to high for about a minute. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, and stir in any unblended ingredients, and the chopped cherries. Spoon into the prepared ramekins. 9 Pour some kettle water into the roasting pan—fill to about halfway up the ramekins. 10  Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, or until a cake tester comes out mostly clean. The top of the cake may still be slightly wet looking in the centre. 11  To serve, either tip out onto dessert plates, upside-down cake style, or serve in the rame- kins—surprise-at-the-bottom style—and don’t forget a scoop of vanilla ice cream! Makes 12 to 14 mini cakes

WHAT TO SERVE Wellington Imperial Russian Stout LCBO 296269, 473 mL, $3.25

½ tsp (2 mL) sea salt 1 cup (250 mL) sugar ⅔ cup (150 mL) olive oil 3 free-range eggs ½ cup (125 mL) coarsely chopped maraschino cherries

Grand Marnier LCBO 1784, $44.95

7 Reduce the speed to medium, and add the cocoa paste as you beat. Use a rubber spatula

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TWISTS  OLIVE OIL DESSERTS

6 Transfer the batter to the prepared pan, smooth out the top a bit, then add the figs in any pattern you like, arranged or random, and push each one down into the batter a little, skin-side down. 7 Bake until a cake tester inserted into centre comes out clean (try not to run it through a juicy fig), about 30 to 40 minutes. Set on a wire rack to cool, in the pan. 8 When cool, run a dull knife around edge of pan and unmould cake by sandwiching it between 2 wire cooling racks, flipping over, removing pan bottom, and peeling off parch- ment, then flipping back over again. 9 To serve, dust with icing sugar, or drizzle each slice with Chèvre & Honey Sauce.

Optional Garnish: icing sugar for dusting or Chèvre & Honey Sauce (recipe p. 148)

The flavours of anise and honey make this elegantly simple cake earthy, while the fla- vours of chèvre and orange zest give it tang. Not overly sweet, it works beautifully for a special breakfast or brunch, too. Fresh figs can be tiny or super-plump, so the number you’ll need will vary. The Chèvre & Honey Sauce is optional. If time is tight, top the cake with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

1 Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Grease the sides and bottom of a 9-inch (23-cm) spring- form pan with nonstick spray. Place a circle of parchment paper on the bottom. 2 In a large bowl, whisk the 2 flours together. Add the baking powder, anise, salt and baking soda; whisk to combine, breaking any lumps. 3 With a hand beater or in the bowl of a stand mixer on medium-high, beat ¼ cup (60 mL) of the sugar with the oil, for about 1 minute. Add the egg yolks and flour mixture and continue to beat. Add the yogurt, orange zest and vanilla. 4 Degrease a large bowl with a dab of vin- egar on a clean cloth, and add the egg whites. Tip: egg whites won’t fluff up if there’s any oil or fat present, so make sure no yolk gets past you either. Also, make sure the beaters are clean and dry. Gradually beat in remaining ¼ cup (60 mL) sugar until firm peaks form. 5 In 2 additions, fold the fluffy egg whites into the batter and just barely mix in.

1 cup (250 mL) all-purpose flour ½ cup (125 mL) semolina flour 1½ tsp (7 mL) baking powder 2 tsp (10 mL) anise seeds ½ tsp (2 mL) sea salt ¼ tsp (1 mL) baking soda ½ cup (125 mL) sugar, divided ½ cup (125 mL) olive oil 3 free-range eggs, separated 1 cup (250 mL) plain, full-fat yogurt Zest of 1 large, washed orange 1 tsp (5 mL) pure vanilla extract Dab of vinegar 5 to 10 fresh figs, washed and cut in half or wedges, depending on size, skin on, stems removed

WHAT TO SERVE Ferreira Dona Antonia Tawny Reserve Port LCBO 157586, $18.95 Persian Empire Arak Saggi LCBO 401588, $35.70

Fresh Fig Olive Oil Anise Cake with Chèvre & Honey Sauce

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Bookmark it! Get inspired with Ontario wine, find the perfect pairing for beer, discover a favourite whisky or check store hours. It’s all here, and more at lcbo.com

CONNECT WITH US!

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22541

Even a good guess is a bad idea. At the LCBO, we don’t guess. That’s why we checked the ID of over 13.5 million people last year. Please have your ID ready. High school or grad school?

See the answer at lcbo.com/cardornot #cardornot

FOOD SEASONAL

KALE 2.0

BY CHRISTOPHER ST. ONGE • PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

FOUR NEW RECIPES—INCLUDING A THANKSGIVING STUFFING— THAT OFFER VERSATILE, SUBTLE (AND TASTY!) WAYS TO INCORPORATE THIS SUPERFOOD INTO YOUR MEALS.

SALTBAKED POTATOES WITH MISO CREAMED KALE recipe on page 141

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN

SEASONAL  KALE 2.0

FARRO & MUSHROOM-STUFFED KALE

Reminiscent of the diminutive grape leaf rolls known as dolmas, these rich, aromatic kale rolls are worth every bit of work involved. The filling of toothsome farro and plenty of mush- rooms is bound together with crème fraîche and luscious Gorgonzola. It’s a satisfyingmain, but terrific too as a side to pan-fried steaks. 1 cup (250 mL) semi-pearled farro SAUCE 1½ cups (375 mL) beef stock 1½ cups (375 mL) passata, or puréed tomatoes 1 bay leaf Sprig thyme 2 tbsp (30 mL) butter Pinch each salt and freshly ground pepper STUFFING ½ oz (15 g) dried porcini mushrooms 1 cup (250 mL) boiling water 2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil 1 onion, chopped 1 lb (500 g) assorted fresh mushrooms, thinly sliced Salt 3 oz (90 g) crumbled Gorgonzola Freshly ground pepper to taste 30 large lacinato, or dino kale leaves, each 5 to 6 inches (12 to 15 cm) across at widest point 1 While preparing other ingredients, soak farro in enough cool water to cover. 2 For the sauce, combine all ingredients in a medium saucepan. Simmer, covered, over medium-low heat for 20 minutes; set aside. 3 Pour boiling water over porcini in a small heatproof bowl. Once rehydrated, about 20 min­ utes, drain through a fine-meshed sieve set over a bowl. Gently squeeze mushrooms to release excess liquid. Rinse mushrooms well under running water; coarsely chop. Set both mushrooms and liquid aside. 4 Heat oil over medium heat in a large sauce- pan. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 tbsp (15 mL) chopped thyme 3 cups (750 mL) beef stock ½ cup (125 mL) crème fraîche

translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the fresh mushrooms, season with salt and cook, stir- ring occasionally, until they begin to soften and sweat. Stir in garlic and thyme and cook 8 to 10 minutes longer or until mushrooms are golden. Drain the farro, and add it, along with the reserved porcini, to the pot. Cook, stirring, until the farro is dry, about 2 minutes longer. Add the stock and reserved porcini soaking liquid and bring to a simmer. Cover and cook for 50 minutes or until the farro is tender, stirring occasionally in the final 15 minutes (there should be some liquid remaining in the pot). Remove from heat; stir in crème fraîche and Gorgonzola. Season with black pepper, taste and adjust seasoning. 5 Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). 6 Working with one leaf at a time, trim the kale leaves by removing most of the tough centre rib: beginning 4 inches (10 cm) from the top of the leaf (furthest from the stem) use a knife to make a cut right next to, and paral- lel to the rib all the way to the bottom of the leaf. Repeat on other side of rib; remove and discard rib. Blanch leaves in plenty of boil- ing water for 1 minute, working in bunches if necessary; drain. 7 Working with 1 leaf at a time, place a heap- ing tablespoon of the filling 2 inches (5 cm) from the widest end. Working from narrow trimmed end, fold and roll kale around fill- ing to form a roughly 3-inch-long (8-cm) roll. Repeat with remaining kale leaves and filling; arrange in a 9 x 13-inch (23 x 32-cm) baking dish. Pour sauce over, cover and bake for 40 minutes. Divide between plates and spoon a little sauce over each. Serves 4

WHAT TO SERVE G. Marquis The Silver Line Pinot Noir VQA

VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 258673, $19.95 Hob Nob Pinot Noir Pays d’Oc LCBO 184069, $12.95

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SEASONAL  KALE 2.0

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2015 55

SEASONAL  KALE 2.0

CURRIED CHICKEN & KALE RICE PORRIDGE

3 Stir in kale, cover and return to a simmer once again. Cook until kale is tender, about 10 minutes longer. 4 Meanwhile, remove chicken from bones and roughly chop. Once kale is cooked, stir in chicken, remove cinnamon, and divide be- tween 4 large bowls. Cloves will soften as the porridge cooks and can be left in. Garnish each with mango chutney to taste. Serves 4

Salt 6 skinless, bone-in chicken thighs 8 cups (2 L), about 1 small bunch, chopped curly kale, tough centre rib removed Mango chutney for garnish 1 Heat oil in a large pot over medium heat. Fry onion, stirring frequently, for 8 to 10 min- utes or until golden. Stir in garlic, ginger, curry paste, cinnamon and cloves; cook 2 min- utes longer. 2 Pour chicken stock into pot; bring to a boil. Add rice, reduce heat to low, cover and sim- mer for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. Check for seasoning and add salt if necessary. Nestle chicken thighs into rice mixture, cover and return to a simmer. Cook for 10 minutes, or until chicken juices run clear. Remove chicken to a plate.

This comforting savoury porridge is inspired by the many different versions of congee eaten all over Asia. Here, with an Indian twist, the rice gently simmers in plenty of aromatic broth until it is very soft and begins to break apart. Look for the curry paste and mango chutney in the international aisle of large supermarkets. 3 tbsp (45 mL) vegetable or canola oil

1 large onion, finely chopped 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped 2 tbsp (30 mL) finely chopped ginger 3 tbsp (45 mL) mild curry paste 1 cinnamon stick, 2 inches (5 cm) long 3 whole cloves

WHAT TO SERVE Caymus Conundrum

VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 694653, $24.95 Konzelmann Gewürztraminer VQA LCBO 392357, $14.95

8 cups (2 L) chicken stock 1 cup (250 mL) basmati rice

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