LCBO Food & Drink Autumn 2017

AUTUMN 2017

A VQA Wine Manifesto

The problem wi th hi story, i s that i t ’s in the past . What comes nex t i s much more interest ing. At least to us .

VQA Wines of Ontar io i sn’ t just a stamp on a bot t le. I t ’s an exper ience. I t ’s not just about great wine. I t ’s about being di f ferent . Embracing di f ferent . Standing out .

And standing up. For who we are. If they think we’re crazy for mak ing wine? We’ l l show them crazy.

VQA wines from Ontar io are mak ing what ’s nex t in wine. So i f that means break ing rules , defying convent ions , expectat ions , being bold , fresh , creat ive,

forging our own style. . . Then that ’s what we’ l l do. We’ l l do us .

We al l know where wine comes from.

So let ’s see where i t ’s going.

Di scover why internat ional wine cr i t ics are cal l ing Ontar io “One of the most astoni shing wine regions in the wor ld.”

From the Fami ly of Maver i cks who created the S i ngl e Malt C ategory

comes the Next Generat i on of Ground - Break i ng F l avour .

Th i nk you know wh i sk y ? th i nk aga i n .

The Gl enf i dd i ch ® I PA Exper iment i s the F i rst i n a Ser i es of I nnovat i ve

New Wh i sk i es that wi l l chal l enge every th i ng you thought you

knew about S i ngl e Malt Scotch .

#UnL earnWh i sk y

SK I L FUL LY CRAF TED . ENJOY RE SPONS I B LY. Glenfiddich ® Single Malt Scotch Whisky is a registered trademark of William Grant & Sons Ltd

Superb quality. Distinctive character. Exceptional value. The finely crafted wines in our Essentials Collection make exploring the world of wine easy. View the entire collection of 130 proven favourites, hand-picked by our experts. Always available. vintages.com/essentials

Zinfully Delicious

27270

Shop online for Vintages Essentials and more at lcbo.com

Great with grilled ribs MICHAEL DAVID7DEADLY ZINS OLD VINE ZINFANDEL Lodi, California 59311 750 mL $25.95 Full-bodied & Smooth Great with beef stew E. GUIGAL CÔTES DU RHÔNE AC, France 259721 750 mL $19.95 Medium-bodied & Fruity Great with grilled lamb SANTA CAROLINA RESERVA DE FAMILIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON

Outstanding Classic

Maipo Valley, Chile 408658 750 mL Full-bodied & Firm

$19.95

Classic Rhône Blend

Great with raw oysters HENRI BOURGEOIS LES BARONNES SANCERRE AC, Loire, France 542548 750 mL $27.95 Aromatic & Flavourful

Charismatic Chilean

Prices subject to change without notice. Available in Vintages locations at select LCBO stores.

HORNITOS ® BLACK BARREL ® The spirit of a tequila with the soul of a bourbon

Hornitos ® Black Barrel ® Tequila, 40% alc./vol. © 2017 Sauza Tequila Import Company, Deer eld, IL.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

FEATURES

66 A HEARTY HARVEST

By Lucy Waverman & James Chatto Savour the harvest with platters heaped with fall flavours—paired with terrific Ontario wines that may have been flying below your radar.

74 FROM THE CABBAGE PATCH By Amy Rosen

With a range of tempting flavours and textures, different cabbage varieties show off what they do best in four enticing dishes.

80 FIELD TO TABLE By Eric Vellend

A flavourful all-vegetable menu that makes the most of autumn’s bounty—so satisfying that even carnivores won’t miss the meat.

86 SOUS-CHEF SUPPERS By James Chatto

Whipping up supper for restaurant staff, sous-chefs work magic often with leftover items—we asked some wine country stars to share their best recipes.

94 HOME SWEET HOME By Elizabeth Baird

Celebrating the sweet life in Canada, iconic regional desserts offer delectable ways to end your Thanksgiving dinner. ON THE COVER Radicchio, Endive & Spicy Lettuce Salad with Roasted Grapes, recipe on page 154. Photography by Rob Fiocca

74

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2017 7

TABLE OF CONTENTS

DRINK

SEASONAL PUMPKIN PLEASURES By Stephen Beaumont, Heather Trim, Michelle P.E.Hunt & Laura Panter

43

DEPARTMENTS FOOD

The fab flavour of pumpkin imbues three beers paired with enticing mains—and two spirits hint at pumpkin in delicious cocktails.

FLAVOURS BAKED GOODS By Christopher St. Onge Jazz up the humble baked potato with inventive seasonings, ingredients and toppings.

35

SPIRITS FALLING FOR WHISKY By James Chatto, Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic, Michelle P.E.Hunt & Laura Panter

49

An autumnal supper finds beautiful complements in three simple whisky cocktails: one for each course.

TRENDS GLASS ACTS By Eshun Mott

57

WINE BIG TIME By Charlene Rooke

107

Layering complementary ingredients into a jar makes for tasty ready-to-go midday meals, whether hot or cold, at work or at home.

Convenient, economical and enjoyable, large-format wines are worth checking out—they’re great for entertaining, celebrating and gifting.

SEASONAL HERITAGE THANKSGIVING By Lucy Waverman

101

BEER WINEMAKERS’ CHOICE By James Chatto

125

A Thanksgiving menu for two that looks back through the generations to traditional, homegrown ingredients and recipes, honouring Canada’s bounty. ENTERTAINING SAVOURY SWEETS By Jennifer MacKenzie The sweet luxury of late-harvest wines—paired with sophisticated savoury desserts—take brunch, an afternoon get-together or dinner to a memorable conclusion.

Many a winemaker loves to kick back with beer— we’ve rounded up some of their favourite go-to labels.

117

IN EVERY ISSUE

EDITOR’S NOTES

11

A SPLASH OF LIQUEUR Cherry liqueur adds deep, fruity flavour and renders milk chocolate truffles a grown-up treat. WHAT’S NEW A selection of products from around the world available at the LCBO and Vintages. MUST-HAVES Things we love for entertaining and around the house. TRENDSPOTTING From smart shopping to dining on discards, how to reduce food waste at home.

13

57

15

20

23

159 RECIPE INDEX 160 KITCHEN ESSENTIALS

Expand your skills or learn something new through cooking methods, information, recipes and tips. This issue? Getting the most out of butter.

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Publication Director & SVP .........Nancy Cardinal Sales, Marketing & Insights

VP Marketing ..................................Kerri Dawson Editor .................................................Jody Dunn Art Directors ...................................Karen Lim, Cathy Cicchini

Senior Editor ...................................James Chatto Food Editor .......................................Lucy Waverman Contributing Editors ....................Charlene Rooke, Kat Tancock Publication Coordinator ............Margot Blais Graphic Designers .........................Wincy Law, Dominique Patafio, Pat Turbach Production Manager ...................Mark Greene Production Coordinator .............Judy Haverkort Publication Assistant .................Piper MacFadyen Production Assistant ...................Everton Smith Food Stylists ....................................Eshun Mott, Christopher St. Onge Prop Stylists ....................................Catherine MacFadyen, Andrea McCrindle, Lara McGraw, Shelly Shnier Contributors ...................................Julia Aitken, Elizabeth Baird, Stephen Beaumont, Michelle P.E. Hunt,

COMING NEXT ISSUE A FEAST OF FIRSTS Hors d’oeuvre for dinner! COOKIE DELUXE Extravagantly delicious holiday baking IN FROM THE COLD Hearty dishes, ready when you are REGAL ROASTS Centrepiece meat dishes fit for a king

Anna Kohn, Ann Lough, Jennifer MacKenzie, Brenda Morrison, Eshun Mott, Laura Panter, Amy Rosen, Christopher St. Onge,

Heather Trim, Eric Vellend, Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic

Publisher ..........................................Leslie Virdo Digital Project Management ......Wayne Leek

For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about LCBO products and policy please contact helloLCBO online at hellolcbo.com, or call toll-free 1•800•668•5226 or 416•365•5900. TTY Only: 416•864•6898 or 1•800•361•3291. For advertising in Food & Drink magazine, please contact Keystone Media, 416•224•1500 or e-mail foodanddrink@keystonemedia.ca. All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the LCBO’s advertising agreement. Food & Drink is published six times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Volume 25, Number 1. Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 percent post-consumer fibre. Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs.

Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Drink , 55 Lake Shore Boulevard East, Toronto, ON, M5E 1A4 ISSN 1195-5988

WATCH FOR THE HOL I DAY I S S UE OF

AVA I LABLE NOVEMBER 8

Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all LCBO stores.

PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE. Cette publication est également disponible en français.

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EDITOR’S NOTES

Eating local and in season has become ingrained into our lives, an automatic consideration as we choose what we want to eat. We are spoiled for choice at this time of year, and you’ll find that reflected in the pages of this issue.    Consider an all-vegetable menu (including dessert!) for your first autumn dinner party—starting on page 80, it’s a menu so satisfying your guests won’t even miss the meat. Or choose any of Amy Rosen’s delec- table cabbage recipes (page 74) that showcase the range of this diverse vegetable. On the local drinks front, James Chatto has paired several Ontario wines that may have been fly- ing beneath your radar with a grape- harvest-inspired menu on page 66. He also shines a spotlight on three Niagara sous-chefs doing great work in wine country kitchens (page 86), with a suggestion of an Ontario wine to serve with each of their “sta -meal” recipes. Then, in “Winemaker’s Choice” on page 125, we present favourite beer choices of some of Ontario’s finest winemakers—because it has often been said that it takes a lot of beer to make wine…    As the weather starts to turn cool, our taste buds crave the tastes of autumn, things like whisky, pumpkin

and potatoes. For a twist on whisky, check out “Falling for Whisky” on page 49 where each course of a menu is paired with a simple whisky cocktail. On page 43, we feature two pumpkin- flavoured spirits and three pumpkin- flavoured beers, showing you how to incorporate them into your entertain- ing or weekday meals—creating two cocktails and two food pairings. And finally, there is an abundance of potato varieties in farmer’s markets right now, so Christopher St. Onge has chosen four and, starting on page 35, dreamed up unique toppings for fresh takes on a comfort food classic, the Baked Potato.    Of course, we haven’t forgotten Thanksgiving and whether your gathering is large or small, we o er two approaches. For a large crowd, consider “Big Time” on page 107, where we present our picks for the best bets in large format wines avail- able at the LCBO. From magnums to bag-in-box, they are a practical and economical solution. If you’re keeping things small, Lucy Waverman shares a flavourful menu for two on page 101 that easily doubles or triples in a pinch (visit foodanddrink.ca to search for recipes sized for a larger group).    There are so many reasons to cele- brate autumn in Ontario. Enjoy the flavours and occasions of the season!

PORTRAIT BY JAMES TSE

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN

Immerse yourself in a virtual visit to Bowmore’s No.1 VAULTS, the World’s oldest Scotch maturation warehouse. Visit Bowmore.com/vaults

bowmore.com

Bowmore® Scotch Whisky, 40-43% alc/vol. © 2017 Beam Suntory, Inc. Deer eld, IL

A SPLASH OF LIQUEUR BY JULIA AITKEN  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY DARREN KEMPER

THE PROOF IS IN THE FLAVOUR WHEN YOU COOK WITH FRUIT LIQUEURS.

MILK CHOCOLATE CHERRY TRUFFLES recipe on page 158

Who doesn’t crave a chocolate truffle (or three) now and then? As if being the ultimate in decadence isn’t enough, these extravagant little bites are ridiculously easy to make. They also keep well in the fridge or freezer so you can haul them out—ta-dah!—any time you need to raise your hosting cred a notch.     Milk chocolate makes our version ultra-creamy and just a splash of liqueur adds deep, fruity flavour and renders the truffles a grown-up treat. We love the sweet cherry-almond notes of Heering Cherry Liqueur ( LCBO 227140, $40.60), especially when it’s used to plump the dried cherries that form a sweet surprise in the centre of the truffles.     But if cherry isn’t your thing, the recipe is a cinch to customize by changing up the fruit filling and liqueur. Try using chopped dried apricots and Bols Apricot Brandy ( LCBO 15628, $20.10), tossing the finished truffles in toasted coconut. Dried cranberries teamed with the orange hit of Grand Marnier ( LCBO 1784, $48.20) work well, too, especially if you roll the truffles in grated white chocolate. Or pair up chopped dried strawberries with the black raspberry liqueur Chambord Royale ( LCBO 111443, $40.10) and coat the truffles with finely chopped macadamia nuts.

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ALL OF THE DELICIOUS FETA , NONE OF THE MESS .

Pre-crumbled feta in a resealable shaker tub. It’s the mess-free way to add feta to your favourite meals.

Find it in the dairy aisle.

NOW THIS IS CHEESE.

Visit kraftcanada.com for more great recipes.

WHAT’S NEW BY JULIA AITKEN  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY DARREN KEMPER

A WORLD OF NEW PRODUCTS AT THE LCBO AND VINTAGES.

ITALIAN SUPERSTAR

A Super-Tuscan blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the latest new Vintages Essentials. Full-bodied and rich with silky tannins, the wine sports a long finish of vanilla and red ber- ries, and stands up well to bold flavours—think duck braised with olives, pasta with bolognese sauce or strong cheeses. Will cellar well for several years. Ruffino Modus  VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 912956, $29.95

WHEN BEER MEETS WHISKY Glenfiddich IPA

Left Field Nelson Sauvignon Blanc LCBO 487496, $15.95 Hailing from the world’s hippest wine region, this signature New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc couldn’t be more on-trend. From Te Awa winery, named for subterranean streams that run beneath the vineyard, the wine is rich in tropical fruit aromas and flavours tempered by a vibrant acidity. Fantastic with grilled fish or seafood. A STYLISHWHITE

Experiment LCBO 513069, $89.95

To create this groundbreaking single malt, iconic distillery Glen- fiddich collaborated with a local Speyside craft brewer to create an India Pale Ale. After brewing, the beer casks were used to finish this appropriately named single-malt whisky. The vibrant spirit shows zesty citrus notes followed by sweet vanilla and a hint of fresh hops.

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WHAT ’ S NEW

SPICE IS NICE In Haitian lore, Baron Samedi is mas- ter of the dead, a spirited character with a penchant for rum. This blend of column-still and pot-still rums mim- ics the Baron’s personality with lively spicing of vanilla, cocoa, cinnamon and cloves, plus vetiver, a grass native to Haiti. And it’s blended specifically to team with cola or ginger beer. The Baron Samedi LCBO 454769, $29.95

CAMERA- READY RED Volo Biòu Grenache Vin de Pays D’oc LCBO 470252, $10.95

BELGIAN BREW

With its photo-worthy label, this great-value French red is the ideal social sipper but also teams beau- tifully with grilled lamb or robust cheese. Chill it down a tad, then look for aromas of dark red fruit and peppery gingerbread followed by mouth-filling flavours of cherry and blackberry and hints of licorice and pepper.

Rodenbach Grand Cru LCBO 492207, 330 mL, $3.50

This remarkable beer is a typical sour ale from the Flanders area of Belgium. The complex, fruity brew is a distinctive red-brown with a characteristic sweet-sour flavour. It’s mild-tasting with notes of red fruit, vanilla, chocolate and caramel. Serve as an aperitif, or sip with old cheddar or a creamy cheese such as Brillat-Savarin.

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THIS WEEKEND, SAVOUR THE MOMENT

VISIT INDIGO.CA/WEEKEND FOR THIS WEEKEND’S EVENTS

!ndigo, Chapters, Coles, indigo.ca andMake It An IndigoWeekend are trademarks of Indigo Books &Music Inc.

WHAT ’ S NEW

MYSTERY BLEND

Conundrum Red VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 294298, $24.95

The conundrum refers to the varietals that make up this proprietary Cali- fornia blend. But don’t waste time pondering, just enjoy the big robust red that’s a new addition to the Vintages Essentials Collection. Dark berry flavours balanced with spice and soft tannins make this a must-have with grilled red meats and autumnal braises.

FRUIT-FORWARD COCKTAIL

NOT JUST FOR BURGERS 13 th Street Burger Blend Riesling Pinot Grigio VQA LCBO 469304, $14.95 White wine with burgers? Ab- solutely, if you opt for this fruity, refreshing blend from Niagara. Aromatic notes of lemon, peach and pineapple are balanced by crisp acidity, making it the per- fect pour for your last grill of the season. But try it, as well, with seared tuna, fried calamari and spicy Thai food.

Crisp fall days herald the arrival of heaping bushel baskets of apples in farmer’s markets. Savour the flavour of autumn with this convenient cocktail-in-a-can that blends the sweet oakiness of Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey with the refreshing taste of apple. A lovely beverage on its own, Jack Apple is especially good sipped alongside freshly baked apple pie. Jack Daniel’s Country Cocktails Jack Apple LCBO 491225, 473 mL, $3.00

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I N G E N U I T Y F O R

REFINED TASTING

F I N A L T O U C H ®

RUM TASTER T M

G L A S S

Perfectly designed for rum, this glass helps you to taste and discover the complexity of aged rums. The curved pro le of the glass ares out at the top to help release aromas within the lower bulb. The bottom of the glass has our peak which creates a natural liquid motion further increasing the nosing of aromas.

There is a new wave of distillers that are creating & aging rum so top-notch that you deserve the right glass to truly appreciate them.

FINAL TOUCH® RELAX COLLECTION

C R E A T I V E L Y D E V E L O P E D T O B O O S T T H E E N J O Y M E N T

F I N A L T O U C H ®

F I N A L T O U C H ®

F I N A L T O U C H ®

RELAX LI Q UEUR RELAX LI Q UEUR RELAX COGNAC

G L A S S E S | S E R V E D N E A T

G L A S S E S | S E R V E D O N T H E R O C K S

G L A S S E S

The Relax Cognac glass moulds perfectly into your hand providing warmth to the Cognac which helps to bring out the aromas and avors.

The larger designed Relax Liqueur / Cordial tilted glasses provides space for adding su cient ice perfect for chilling - on the rocks. A wider mouth allows for adding ice and extra capacity.

Relax Liqueur tilted glasses have a lower capacity designed for Liqueurs / Cordials enjoyed straight up. The tilt positions the glass for sense of smell to the nose and taste buds.

Where to buy these products & more information. http://bit.ly/2uEOmB5

Explore more great products at:

WWW.ALWAYSF INALTOUCH.COM

BY BRENDA MORRISON  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI THE LATEST IN KITCHEN AND HOME ACCESSORIES TAKE FORM AND FUNCTION TO THE NEXT LEVEL. MUST -HAVES

FLEX TIME When the countdown to dinner is on, the

Anywhere! Digital Timer ($13.99) features a twist- and-bend silicone band so it can be wrapped around your wrist, a belt loop or even a barbecue handle. It also features a magnet to attach to the fridge, oven or screen door. Available at IQ Living (Toronto, 416•466•2727, iqliving.com).

PRESERVING PRODUCE Keep fruits and vegetables that can’t tolerate refrig­ eration market-fresh with the innovative Denise Water ($180). Simply fill the ceramic bowl with water while resting tender produce on the wooden slats. Choose from either maple or walnut slats, available at shopAGO (Toronto, 877•225•4246, shop.ago.net).

KERNELS OF WISDOM Snacking through weekend movie marathons and Netflix binges? The M-Cuisine single-serve microwave popcorn makers from Joseph Joseph ($24.99, set of 2) require no oil or butter and each yields 2 to 3 cups of popped corn, ideal for portion control. For retailers: 514•694•9111 or danescoinc.com.

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CLEAN-UP CREW Whether you’re cleaning a few potatoes or an entire bushel basket of apples, the Flex Scrub Veggie Brush and Flex Scrub Fruit Brush ($12.99 each) are designed to fit comfortably into the palm of your hand and curve around the surfaces of fresh produce to clean off dirt, wax and pesticides. Available at Binz (Toronto, 416•762•2469, binz.ca).

SLICE ADVICE Instead of having a kitchen drawer full of inferior knives, invest in Le Creuset’s Knife Collection ($80 to $250), offering six different essential blades. Choose from three timeless handle finishes: Italian olive wood, sleek stainless steel or black phenolic. Ideal for wedding registries and available at Le Creuset Boutiques (lecreuset.ca).

MEET YOUR MATCH As nights get colder and longer, be prepared to light the fireplace and candles by keeping a Farmhouse Pottery Match Striker ($65) set out on the hearth. This durable stoneware vessel makes for a lovely housewarming gift. Available at Hopson Grace (Toronto, 416•926•1120, hopsongrace.com).

PICK OF THE CROP The tradition of preserving harvest vegetables is more popular than ever! Transform cucumbers into pickles, cabbage into sauerkraut and much more—all with Mortier Pilon Fermentation Crocks (from $39.95). Available at Bradshaws & Kitchen Detail (Stratford, 1•844•271•6281, bradshawscanada.com).

Y O U R C O Z Y P L A C E

FALL COLLECTION 2017

Shop our latest collection online or at one of our 20+ stores in Ontario.

We're extroverted...

URBANBARN.COM

TREND SPOTTING BY ERIC VELLEND  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR FROM THE WORLD OF FOOD AND DRINK.

Reducing food waste is one of the most important issues of our time. From smart shopping to dining on discards, here’s how to help at home. Imperfect Fit Those pyramids of perfect peppers have a hid- den cost: small, misshapen or oddly coloured specimens can end up rotting on a farmer’s field or in the dumpster. Turning the page, Loblaws now celebrates these outcasts of the produce aisle. At their affiliated supermar- kets, you can find curvy carrots, runty apples, and lumpy potatoes at a discount under the No Name Naturally Imperfect Produce label. The line has been so successful that they’ve ex- panded into frozen fruits including mixed ber- ries and mango. After all, if it’s going into soup or a smoothie, who cares what it looks like?

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TREND SPOTT ING

ROOT- TO-LEAF

our daily bread

Stale slices don’t have to be the bane of the breadbox. Instead, think of them as an opportunity to cook up some incredible dishes. There are cucina povera classics from Italy such as panzanella and ribollita. Then there’s panade from France, which transforms a dried-out baguette into a divine cheesy casserole. With Thanksgiving around the corner, stockpile bread ends in the freezer for croutons, stuffing and crispy crumb toppings. And remember to take advantage of discounted day-olds at bakeries, such as a loaf of challah for this fabulous Vanilla Cinnamon Baked French Toast (recipe at foodanddrink.ca).

A lot of veggie scraps can be diverted from the compost heap onto your dinner plate. Here’s how. squash guts  Roast the seeds with olive oil and salt in a 300°F (150°C) oven until golden brown, about 45 minutes. Sauté the flesh in butter until soft then whiz it in a food processor for a satiny puree. beet greens  Like Swiss chard, beet leaves are delicious boiled in salted water until tender and dressed with olive oil and lemon juice. Slice the stems into 1 ⁄ 2 -inch (1-cm) pieces and pickle in a basic brine. carrot tops  Think of carrot leaves as robust parsley and use them in a classic green sauce such as pesto, salsa verde or chimichurri. Then serve it with carrots roasted in their skins. leek greens  The dark green part of a leek is excellent cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) pieces and stir-fried with garlic, ginger and dried chilis. Or blanch long pieces and wrap them around thick fish fillets before steaming. broccoli stems  Peeled and thickly sliced, broccoli stems can be cooked along with the florets in most dishes. They are also terrific raw: try them peeled and shaved in our soothing Beef and All-the-Broccoli Soup (recipe page 156).

SHOP SMART If you only do one big weekly shop, plan meals using the most perishable foods first.

bank on it

While food banks and food rescue pro- grams help fight hunger, they’re reducing food waste at the same time. “We play an active role in finding homes for high-quality, nutritious food that might otherwise go to waste,” says Carolyn Stewart, executive direc- tor of the Ontario Association of Food Banks (oafb.ca). “This is often food that may have just a labelling error or cosmetic imperfection, but it’s still healthy and delicious.” Every year, Second Harvest, a food rescue organization in Toronto, delivers millions of pounds of surplus food to its social services agencies. Divert- ing this food from a landfill has tremendous benefits for the environment. Thanks to Second Harvest, in 2016: THE NUMBERS ADD UP

9.8 MILLION LBS surplus food over

5.1 MILLION LBS greenhouse gases saved

GHG

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at St. Lawrence Market Celebrate the fall harvest season

stlawrencemarket.com

TREND SPOTT ING

A lot of kitchen scraps have some flavour to give before you toss them in the green bin. Here’s what to save for stock. What To Use STOCKING UP

Q A +

Bacon rinds

➤

Corn cobs

➤

Carrot peels

What are the best ways to use up meat scraps?

➤

➤ Celery tops and leaves

S.A. Whether it’s trimmings from beef, pork or lamb, we scrape our knife over the sinew and gristle to get the pure muscle. That will get utilized in sausages, terrines, meatballs and sauces. Give me a carnivorous example of turning lemons to lemonade. S.A.  As a prosciutto gets sliced down to the end, the last part is not visually appealing. We’ll slice it thin and make crisps. You can use that to flavour Brus- sels sprouts, greens, anything. Are there any unique butcher scraps available to the home cook? S.A. We’ll give dry-aged beef fat to a customer for next to nothing. Brown it in a pan, and it can add so much flavour to a lot of dishes.

➤ Chicken or turkey skin and bones

➤ Fennel cores and tops

Green onion whites

➤

Leek tops

➤

Kale stems

➤

Parsley stems

➤

Shrimp shells

➤

➤ Tomato skins, seeds and cores

STOCK LEGEND

Here’s Stephen Alexander, owner of Cumbrae’s butcher shops, on getting the most out of your meat. everything but THE OINK

Vegetable Fish

Chicken Beef

PORTRAIT BY ROB FIOCCA

hand picked Founded by Laura Reinsborough, Not Far From The Tree is a Toronto- based volunteer group that will pick fruit and nuts off residential trees. A third of the crop is offered to the homeowner, another third is given to the gleaners, and the rest is donated to social service groups like food banks and shelters. Everyone wins, and it sure beats cleaning a yard full of fermenting fruit! To donate or volunteer, visit notfarfromthetree.org.

SHOP SMART If it takes a while to finish a product, look for a generous best-before date.

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“

” Monitoring every stage, from grain to glass, allows us to push the envelope and makes us better. DON LIVERMORE, MASTER BLENDER

J.P. WISER’SWHISKY: INTERNATIONAL STAR, LOCAL HERO Award-winning taste and a rich Ontario heritage make J.P. Wiser’s a whisky to call our own.

AN LCBO ADVERTORIAL

“ ” The company prides itself on having more human touchpoints than any other Canadian distiller. Donald Campbell oversees the barrel-ageing facility at J.P. Wiser’s.

THE WISER CHOICE Pour a dram. Taste the difference. Subtle and sweet, J.P. Wiser’s Deluxe has hints of toffee and toasted grains. The new Triple Barrel Rye gets its name and bold flavour from three different barrels, including bourbon, while the perfectly aged 15 Year Old delivers light, smooth taste. → For cocktail ideas, visit lcbo.com/jpwisers

Light and mellow in character and diverse in flavour, “our whisky reflects what this country is all about,” says master blender Don Livermore. J.P. Wiser’s has been making Canadian whisky since 1857 — even before Canada became a nation. To this day, the process set out by founder John Philip Wiser is followed to the letter, using the same exacting methods and white oak barrels employed over a century ago. But then, respect for the grain, the people and the process is what J.P. Wiser’s has always been about. Authentically homegrown in Ontario, the grain used to make J.P. Wiser’s whisky comes from farmers who have been growing crops for the company for more than four generations. Add to that the unique climate around the distillery in Windsor, which helps to produce the spirit’s distinct flavour. “There’s no electricity in our aging warehouse,” Livermore says, “so the temperature outside is the same as inside.” The region’s extreme temperature swings from winter to summer not only cause the whisky barrels to expand and contract; they also contribute to the brand’s distinctive character and signature smoothness. Livermore knows of what he speaks. He holds a Ph.D. in brewing and distilling, with a specialty in Canadian whisky. He has worked with the brand for 21 years and, as master blender, has developed a range of products, including the just-released Triple Barrel Rye and 15 Year Old.

J.P. Wiser’s truly takes a hands-on approach to the business of creating whisky. Every step of production takes place at the J.P. Wiser’s distillery. There’s Kristy, who inspects the grains, Han in fermentation, Neil in distilling and beyond — and, of course, Livermore, who is intimately involved in countless steps along the chain. The company prides itself on having more human touchpoints than any other Canadian distiller. From start to finish, 150 employees play a vital role in the process. “We’re all connected, and we’re all in sync,” says Livermore. “Monitoring every stage, from grain to glass, enables us to push the envelope and makes us better.” It also makes for award-winningwhiskies. Among the many medals J.P. Wiser’s has earned this year alone, its new Triple Barrel Rye won Best Canadian Rye at the 2017World Whiskies Awards, as well as Sippin’ Whisky of the Year at the CanadianWhisky Awards. Intent on crafting the perfect dram, the company lets no product leave the premises until it’s approved by the sensory panel — a hand-picked group of J.P. Wiser’s testers that includes folks from the accounting and IT departments, who “judge the quality of every sip.” It’s time consuming but satisfying. After all, everyone behind this label is committed to carrying on a legacy that’s been 160 years in the making. As J.P. Wiser himself said long ago, “Quality is something you can’t rush.”

J.P. WISER’S DELUXE 893 | 750 mL | $28.25 J.P. WISER’S TRIPLE BARREL RYE

536870 | 750 mL | $31.95 J.P. WISER’S 15 YEAR OLD 536946 | 750 mL | $49.95

ONTARIO SUPERSTARS Unleash your inner locavore by exploring our curated collection of delicious VQA Ontario wines. From vivacious whites to robust reds, these local treasures are yours to discover!

RED HOUSE CABERNET SHIRAZ VQA 219030 750 mL $13.95 MEDIUM BODIED & FRUITY D 14 g/L

CAVE SPRING RIESLING DRY VQA 233635 750 mL $15.95 LIGHT & CRISP D 11 g/L

MALIVOIRE CHARDONNAYVQA 573147 750 mL $19.95 FULL BODIED & RICH XD 2 g/L A Vintages Essential*

PROUDLY CANADIAN In celebration of Canada’s 150th anniversary, we’re highlighting all of the great wines, beers and spirits produced right here at home.

BEEF SAUTÉ WITH MIXED WILD MUSHROOMS

Scan the code for this recipe or visit lcbo.recipes/7703

CHICKEN BRAISED WITH APPLES AND CIDER

Scan the code for this recipe or visit lcbo.recipes/7704

Featured products available at select LCBO stores. Prices subject to change without notice. *VintagesEssentialsCollection isalwaysavailableatmany LCBO locations.Visit vintages.com/essentials

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#LCBOtastelocal

Share your experience at

SEPTEMBER 10 – OCTOBER 7 TASTE LOCAL 2017 Over 120 restaurants across Ontario are offering a selection of VQA Ontario Wines. Visit any one of these restaurants to savour a truly local culinary experience. For more details visit lcbo.com/restaurants

Ingersoll Elm Hurst Inn & Spa

ALL MANDARIN RESTAURANTS Bayfield Black Dog Village Pub & Bistro * Beamsville The Restaurant at Peninsula Ridge *

Niagara-on-the-Lake Cannery at Pillar & Post

Stratford Molly Bloom’s Irish Pub * Pazzo Taverna and Pizzeria * Revival House The Parlour Inn Steakhouse

Farmers’ Table at Southbrook † HobNob at The Charles Inn * Noble at Prince of Wales Restaurant Oban Inn * Tiara at Queen’s Landing Treadwell Farm-to-Table Cuisine * Zees Grill *

Keene Elmhirst’s Resort – Hearthside Room * † Kingston AquaTerra * The Kingston Brewing Company Ltd. *

Thornbury Bruce Wine Bar * †

Belle River Sandbar Waterfront Grill Burlington Son of a Peach Pizzeria * Calabogie Canthooks Restaurant at Calabogie Peaks Resort

Toronto 360 The Restaurant at the CN Tower * † Allen’s *

North Bay The White Owl Bistro

Kingsville Jacks Gastropub †

Cafe Belong † C’est What? * E11even FARMHOUSE tavern * † Globe Bistro * Harvest Kitchen Hawthorne Food & Drink * † Le Sélect Bistro * † Lisa Marie Local Kitchen Magic Oven Danforth † Maple Leaf Tavern † Old Mill Osgoode Hall Restaurant Paintbox Bistro * Richmond Station † SpiritHouse Stages Restaurant The Green Wood * † The Humber Room TOCA at the Ritz Carlton *

Ottawa Clover food | drink * Gibson’s on Queen Métropolitain Brasserie Restaurant Petit Bill’s Bistro * Restaurant 18 * Restaurant International at Algonquin College The Buzz Kitchen + Cocktail Thyme & Again † Wildred’s Restaurant at Fairmont Château Laurier

Kitchener Borealis Grille & Bar † Charcoal Steak House * Del’s Enoteca Pizzeria * Martini’s

Caledon Headwaters at Millcroft Inn & Spa

London Glassroots

Cambridge Langdon Hall * † Collingwood Azzurra Trattoria * †

Milford Jackson’s Falls Country Inn *

Palgrave The Church Public Inn * †

Minden Boshkung Social Rhubarb Restaurant † Mississauga Live Restaurant at the Living Arts Centre *

Dundas Pavilion Restaurant & Bar Quatrefoil Restaurant

Pickering PORT * †

Dwight Port Cunnington Lodge and Resort

Picton Waring House Restaurant and Inn *

Waterloo University Club

Mono Babbo Wine Bar & Patio at Hockley Valley Resort * † cabin at Hockley Valley Resort * †

Etobicoke Table 21 Kitchen & Wine Bar

Sault Ste. Marie View Restaurant + Bar *

Westport The Cove * Whitby Bistro ’67 * †

Exeter Eddington’s of Exeter † Guelph Borealis Grille & Bar * † Miijidaa Cafe + Bistro † The Wooly Pub * † Hamilton Nique Restaurant * †

Simcoe Barrel Restaurant *

Morriston Enver’s of Morriston *

St. Catharines Coach House Café at Henry of Pelham Dani’s Bistro & VQA Wine Bar * The St. Catharines Club

Niagara Falls 21 Club at Fallsview Casino

Windsor Neros Steakhouse at Caesars Windsor Rino’s Kitchen & Ale House * †

Buchanans Steak & Seafood at DoubleTree Fallsview Resort * Napoli Ristorante & Pizzeria * Ponte Vecchio at Fallsview Casino Windows by Jamie Kennedy Fresh Grill & Winebar * †

St. Davids Ravine Vineyard Restaurant †

Huntsville Spencer’s Tall Trees Restaurant *

*We Love Wine Country Ontario designates these restaurants as proud to have Ontario VQAwines on the menu. †Feast On recognizes these businesses as truly dedicated to showcasing Ontario’s unique taste of place.

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$17 solution. Great-value wines.

THIS IS VINTAGES

This rich red with ripe black fruit and spice flavours is from a must-know producer. DOMAINE LAFAGE CUVÉE NICOLAS VIEILLES VIGNES GRENACHE NOIR 2015 IGP Côtes Catalanes, Roussillon, France 354191 (D) 750 mL $17.00 1 Full-bodied & Smooth 92 points ( robertparker.com ) This smooth Cab is loaded with blackberry and oak flavours. Delicious with steak. AVALON CAB CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013 California 684399 (XD) 750 mL $17.00 2 Full-bodied & Smooth 90 points ( tastings.com )

$17 SOLUTION. AVAILABLE IN STORES SEPTEMBER 2, 2017. Featured products may not be available in all Vintages locations. Visit vintages.com for availablity and store locations. Prices subject to change.

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FOOD  FLAVOURS

BAKED GOODS

BY CHRISTOPHER ST. ONGE PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE

THE HUMBLE BAKED POTATO GETS AMAKEOVER—DIFFERENT VARIETIES JAZZ IT UP WITH INVENTIVE SEASONINGS, INGREDIENTS AND TOPPINGS.

loaded smoked cheddar & chili potato recipe on page 157

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2017 35

FLAVOURS  BAKED GOODS

purple potatoes with mushrooms & brie

1 Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). 2 Place potatoes in a large bowl and drizzle with 2 tbsp (30 mL) oil; season liberally with salt and pepper. Place directly on centre rack and bake for 60 to 70 minutes or until tender. 3 Meanwhile, combine vinegar and honey in a small bowl; stir to dissolve honey and set aside. 4 Heat 2 tbsp (30 mL) butter and remaining 2 tbsp (30 mL) oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Once foaming, add mush- rooms, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring often, for 10 minutes or until the mush- rooms have given up their moisture and pan is once again dry. 5 Stir in garlic, sage and rosemary; continue to cook, stirring from time to time, for an ad- ditional 10 minutes or until mushrooms are golden. Pour vinegar mixture over, immedi- ately remove from heat, and add remaining

Autumnal herbs and gooey brie turn these potatoes into a great cool-weather lunch. There’s no need to do anything ahead of time. Once your potatoes are in the oven, sauté your mushrooms and keep them warm until the po- tatoes are done. 4 large True Blue or other purple potatoes suitable for baking, about 3 lbs (1.5 kg) total ¼ cup (60 mL) olive oil, divided Salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 tbsp (45 mL) balsamic vinegar 1 tbsp (15 mL) honey ¼ cup (60 mL) butter, divided 2 lbs (1 kg) mixed mushrooms, sliced 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 tbsp (15 mL) finely chopped sage 2 tsp (10 mL) finely chopped rosemary 6 oz (175 g) brie, rind removed, divided into 6 equal portions

2 tbsp (30 mL) butter to pan; stir until butter is melted. 6 Split top of potatoes and fluff flesh with a fork. Divide mushrooms between potatoes, spooning into opening and over exposed flesh. Divide brie between potatoes and return to oven for 3 to 4 more minutes or until brie is melted. Serves 4

WHAT TO SERVE Bouchard Père & Fils Pinot Noir Bourgogne LCBO 605667, $19.95 Château des Charmes Brut Méthode

Traditionelle VQA LCBO 224766, $24.95

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Be Safe: Have an alcohol-free pregnancy

Drinking alcohol during pregnancy can cause birth defects and brain damage to your baby. The safest choice in pregnancy is no alcohol at all. In fact, it is best to stop drinking before you get pregnant.

For more information: 1-877-FAS-INFO www.alcoholfreepregnancy.ca

FLAVOURS  BAKED GOODS

Don’t let the colourful vegetables here trick you into thinking this is a virtuous baked po- tato recipe. This is pure decadence, courtesy of crisp bacon and plenty of warm drippings. The vegetables provide some crunch while fresh thyme livens up the delicious earthiness of the potatoes. 4 large Red Gold, Cherry Red or other red potatoes suitable for baking, about 4 lbs (2 kg) 2 tbsp (30 mL) grape-seed, canola or sunflower oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper 6 slices bacon, diced 1 clove garlic, finely chopped Kernels from 2 cobs fresh corn, or 2½ cups (625 mL) frozen kernels ½ cup (125 mL) diced roasted red pepper 1 tbsp (15 mL) chopped thyme 2 tbsp (30 mL) butter 1 Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C) and arrange rack in centre. 2 Place potatoes in a large bowl and drizzle with oil; season liberally with salt and pep- per. Place directly on rack and bake for 65 to 70 minutes or until tender. 3 Meanwhile, cook bacon in a large skillet over medium-low heat until lightly crisped, about 8 minutes; remove with a slotted spoon and set bacon aside. Measure out ¼ cup (60 mL) drippings and return to pan; discard excess. 4 Add garlic and corn to skillet, season with salt and pepper. Cook for 4 minutes over me- dium heat, stirring occasionally. Stir in roasted pepper, thyme and reserved bacon; cook an ad- ditional 4 minutes, stirring often, or until corn is tender. Remove from heat, add butter and stir until melted. 5 Split top of potatoes and fluff flesh with a fork; divide corn mixture between potatoes. Serves 4 red potato with corn, pepper & bacon

WHAT TO SERVE Clos du Bois Chardonnay LCBO 400549, $16.00 Cave Spring Dry Rosé VQA LCBO 295006, $15.95

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A FRESH PERSPECTIVE

Now available at the LCBO $15.95

LCBO# 0499707

FLAVOURS  BAKED GOODS

sweet potatoes with oxtail gravy & horseradish crumbs

6 Meanwhile, prepare the crumbs by melting the butter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add bread and fry until golden and crisp, stirring frequently. Remove from heat; stir in horseradish and parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 7 Measure out 1 tbsp (15 mL) of the solidi- fied fat from reserved braising liquid (discard remaining fat). Heat braising liquid in micro- wave (or on stovetop) until liquified. Melt fat in a separate small pot over medium heat; stir in remaining 2 tbsp (30 mL) flour, then whisk in warm braising liquid. Let boil for 1 minute to thicken; stir in meat and warm through. Add nutmeg and check seasoning. 8 Split potatoes and fluff flesh with fork. Di- vide warm meat and gravy between potatoes and top each with an equal amount of horse- radish crumbs. Serves 4

HORSERADISH CRUMBS 2 tbsp (30 mL) butter 1½ cups (375 mL) finely chopped day-old Italian, sourdough or whole wheat bread ⅓ cup (80 mL) finely grated fresh horseradish 1 tbsp (15 mL) finely chopped parsley 1 Preheat oven to 300°F (150°C). 2 Season oxtail with salt and pepper; sprinkle with ¼ cup (60 mL) flour and toss to coat. 3 Combine olive oil and butter in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Once foaming, brown meat on all sides, about 12 minutes total. Pour wine over and stir in beef stock; tuck in onion, celery, carrots, thyme and bay leaf. Add allspice and cloves; bring to a boil, cover and place in oven for 2½ hours, or until meat is very tender. 4 Remove oxtail to a bowl; set aside. Strain liquid from vegetables and spices and place in fridge overnight; discard solids. Once oxtail is cool enough to handle, remove meat from bones and store in fridge separately alongside braising liquid. 5 When ready to serve, prick the potatoes in several places with a fork, arrange on a baking sheet, and cook in a 400°F (200°C) oven for 1 hour or until tender.

Sweet potatoes bake up soft and moist and are a real treat. Topped with rich oxtail gravy and buttery bread crumbs, they feel luxurious. Oxtail can be found fresh and frozen, usually cut into 2-inch (5 cm) lengths or so. If not, ask your butch- er to do this and purchase your pieces from the thicker end of the tail. Its unique combination of meat and cartilage contributes flavour and a silky mouthfeel to the gravy. Begin gravy a day ahead and chill overnight to “de-fat.” It’s all worth it! STEWED OXTAIL & GRAVY 3 lbs (1.5 kg) oxtail cut into 2-inch (5-cm) lengths Salt and freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup (60 mL) plus 2 tbsp (30 mL) all-purpose flour, divided 2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil 2 tbsp (30 mL) butter 1 cup (250 mL) dry red wine 2 cups (500 mL) homemade or butcher’s beef stock 1 onion, quartered 1 celery stalk, cut into thirds 1 medium carrot, cut into thirds Generous sprig thyme 1 fresh bay leaf 10 dried allspice berries 3 whole cloves Pinch freshly ground nutmeg 4 medium sweet potatoes, about 4 lbs (2 kg) total weight

WHAT TO SERVE Smoking Loon Old Vine Zinfandel LCBO 272393, $15.95 Amsterdam Downtown Brown Ale LCBO 142331, 437 mL, $3.15

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Life Tastes Better With a Liebherr Super Quiet. Maximum Efficiency. Ultimate Food Preservation.

Euro-Line Appliances Inc. 871 Cranberry Court Oakville, ON L6L 6J7

Euro-Line Appliances West Inc. 2912 West 4th Ave. Vancouver, BC V6K 1R2

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Our commitment to winemaking excellence seems to be working.

G OLD M EDAL W INE A LIGN N ATIONAL

W INE A WARDS OF C ANADA

G OLD M EDAL A LL C ANADIAN

W INE C HAMPIONSHIPS

90 POINTS D ECANTER W ORLD W INE A WARDS , U.K.

Located in the tiny appellation called the Beamsville Bench, our narrow strip of land near Lake Ontario boasts sloping vineyards and deep, dry soils — a valuable terroir that shapes the exceptional taste of our award-winning wines.

RIESLING

VQA NIAGARA PENINSULA VQA

clear & bright / refreshing / medium dry

Offer valid September 11 to October 8, 2017 $18.85

$2 OFF

thirtybench.com

VINTAGES # 24133

DRINK  SEASONAL

Pumpkin THE MUCH-LOVED FLAVOUR OF PUMPKIN MAKES ITS WAY INTO THREE GREAT BEERS PAIRED WITH TWO MOUTH-WATERING MAINS—AND INTO TWO SPIRITS USED IN DISTINCTIVE COCKTAILS. p leasu res War m Autumn Pu nch recipe on page 144 BY STEPHEN BEAUMONT, HEATHER TRIM, MICHELLE P.E.HUNT & LAURA PANTER PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

SPICEBOX PUMPKIN SPICED WHISKY  LCBO 353334, $27.95

Make this in a batch on the stove, or store it in an insulated flask, which makes serving larger groups a cinch whether you are entertaining after an outdoor activity or at the start of a festive dinner party. Get a head start by mixing the ingredients in advance and simply warming them up when you are ready to serve.

Spicebox Pumpkin Spiced Whisky is a fantastic sipper when the weather starts to cool, with vanilla and nutmeg flavours melding with pumpkin notes, atop a light and easy-drinking Canadian whisky. Our favourite recipe warms the whisky up, filling the kitchen with amazing scents of fresh baked pie and making us want to put on a warm sweater and snuggle up to the fire.

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2017 43

DRINK  SEASONAL

BOULEVARD BREWING FUNKIER PUMPKIN LCBO 521302, 750 mL, $16.95 With their Funkier Pumpkin, the brewers at Boulevard Brewing Com- pany in Kansas City, Missouri, take a strong spiced ale and ferment it with a mix of traditional brewer’s yeast and Brettanomyces yeast, the latter known for producing musty, funky flavours and aromas—or what the brewery refers to as “forest floor notes.” The result is a beer quite unlike your typical pumpkin ale—it’s part earthy gourd, part cinnamon, allspice and gingery spice and part off-dry, warming malt.    What the impact of the Brettan- omyces does is create a beer with a spiciness that won’t overwhelm the herbs, garlic and paprika used to season the bird (as would an ale with more overt spiciness), while also creating a dryness that serves as a platform for the moist succu- lence of the chicken. Arguably, this will be a superior pairing with dark meat than it will be with white but, providing the crisp skin is added to the plate, it should produce palate pleasure with every bite.

Simp le Roast Chicken Stuffed w ith Fall Her bs recipe on page 144

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SEASONAL  PUMPKIN PLEASURES

Chai -Sp iced Mar tini recipe on page 144

BAILEYS PUMPKIN SPICE  LCBO 519272, $29.95

unveils its limited-edition cream liqueur version called Pumpkin Spice.    Still distinctly Baileys in its base flavour, the subtle notes of spice on the nose increase on the palate, leaving a rich and luxurious lingering taste on the tongue. While you could make your own version with Baileys and a pinch of pumpkin spice, this one is all packaged up for you. It can be drunk neat, on the rocks or in a coffee, but we like to lighten up the cream in our Chai-Spiced Martini.

Pumpkin pie spice is a mixture of spices that was created in the U.S. in the 1800s and quickly became a staple of every kitchen. Essentially a combination of cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger and cloves, the recipe may also include allspice and/or mace. The flavouring became ubiquitous so that some people believed pumpkin spice either tasted like pumpkin or actually had pumpkin in it. Still popular today, the combination is used in everything from cakes to cookies to lattes and now liqueurs, as Baileys

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2017 45

SEASONAL  PUMPKIN PLEASURES

GREAT LAKES BREWERY SAISON DUPUMP LCBO 362814, 650 mL, $ 5 .95 CENTRAL CITY BREWING IMPERIAL PUMPKIN ALE LCBO 518787, 650 mL, $9.95 For those who like their pasta zesty, Saison Dupump from Toronto’s Great Lakes Brewery affords a sav- vy pairing for this dish when only spicy sausage is used. The black peppery notes produced by the unique yeast used to ferment this ale will complement the spiciness of the sausage, while the beer’s bit- terness will keep the heat in check and the pumpkin pie spices add even greater depth and diversity to the already flavourful sauce.    For a tamer version of this dish, made with equal parts spicy and sweet sausage, the barrel-aged Imperial Pumpkin Ale from British Columbia’s Central City Brewers & Distillers is the way to go. Stron- ger and sweeter than the average pumpkin beer, this potent ale, con- ditioned in Central City’s very own whisky barrels, features light spice alongside oaky vanilla notes and a rich, malt-intense body that will draw forward all the flavourful com- plexity of the sauce.

Pasta w ith Sp icy Italian Sausage & Greens recipe on page 144

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