LCBO Food & Drink Autumn 2017

BEER  WINEMAKERS’ CHOICE

“I first moved from France to North America in 1981,” recalls J-L Groux, “to work in the wine industry in the States, but I could never find a beer I liked. Then one day, in Chicago, a friend said, ‘Try that one!’ and oh, it was good. It was a Moosehead lager from Canada. So that was my introduction to Canada and I moved here in 1988.     “There is so much more good beer now than there was then, especially with the new craft breweries opening up in Niagara. At Stratus, we’re right next door to Oast House brewers and sometimes we exchange wine and beer—and customers! And now there’s The Exchange Brewery in Niagara-on-the-Lake and I enjoy whatever seasonal ale they’re making. I like amber ale and I sometimes find a Chimay from Belgium, one of the beers I grew up with in France.     “On Friday evening, we have a get-together with my staff and we normally taste a bottle of wine together, but sometimes we’ll bring in a local beer—or even go out and pay a visit to the brewery. There’s a great deal of research and development going on, and it’s very interest- ing to see what they’re doing.” J-L Groux Stratus Vineyards, Niagara-on-the-Lake, stratuswines.com

FAVOURITE BEERS

You can taste the ever-so-friendly sym- biosis of old wine barrels (from Pearl Morissette winery), brettanomyces yeast and great beer in The Exchange Brewery’s Golden Ale ( LCBO 493049, 750 mL, $13.50), made in the Belgian style. The brett shows up on the nose as a funky, earthy note underlying co- conut, pineapple and vanilla aromas. Complex and tart but approachable, it’s truly a wine-lover’s beer. Oast House Brewers is located right next door to Stratus winery and its flag- ship Barn Raiser Country Ale ( LCBO 460618, 473 mL, $3.30) celebrates the neighbourly spirit. Brewed in the American IPA style, it’s a refreshingly dry, medium-bodied ale full of the aro- mas of peach, citrus and hops. Taste it and the fruit and citrusy hops are in perfect harmony. Easy to drink but with enough going on to repay a mas- ter winemaker’s close analysis, this is a fine session beer.

IT TAKES A LOT OF BEER TO MAKE… Wildass Red VQA ( VINTAGES 86363, $19.95). Stratus’s second label is a powerful blend of Merlot, Cab’ Franc, Cab’ Sauvignon, Syrah and Sangiovese. Behind the warm smile of rich ripe fruit there are brooding depths of mocha and smoke, soft but leathery tannins and a long finish that brings all these elements together. If you like a “big red,” this is a great (and bargain-priced) choice, with enough acidity and structure to make a brilliant marriage with barbecued steak or roast leg of lamb.

PORTRAIT BY JAMES TSE

126  FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2017