LCBO Food & Drink Autumn 2017

BEER  WINEMAKERS’ CHOICE

R yan Corrigan Rosewood Estates Winery, Beamsville, rosewoodwine.com

“I went to school at Brock University—the Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Insti- tute—and we studied beer as well as wine,” explains Ryan Corrigan. “Since then, I’ve been home-brewing and we also brew beer occasionally at the winery. Last year we made a barrel of a Belgian strong ale that helped the team get through the harvest.     I’m really big on sour beers, and our new local brewery, Bench Brewing Company, in Vine- land, plans to do a lot of them. They’ve bought all the old oak barrels from Le Clos Jordanne and they’re experimenting with brett [brettanomyces yeast]—just the thing you don’t want in a wine, but perfect for sour beer. Their Ball’s Falls Session IPA is basically our everyday drinking beer at Rosewood. We’ve sold some of our barrels to Amsterdam Brewery and they also made a Scotch ale called Iona, using the honey we produce at Rosewood for our meads. They kindly dropped some off for us to taste after work on Friday, which is when we usually sit down and have a beer. It’s a great time for Ontario brewing!”

FAVOURITE BEERS

Ryan is a big supporter of beers brewed in the Hamilton area, espe- cially those from downtown brew pub Merit Brewing Co., Shawn & Ed Brewing Company in Dundas and also Collective Arts Brewing. Another Hamilton craft brewery, it combines excellent beers with works by artists, musicians and filmmakers both as label and can art and through a clever app. He is keen on Rhyme & Reason ( LCBO 450288, 473 mL, $3.25), an American Pale Ale with robust citrusy hops on the palate and a pleasant bitterness balanced by a touch of malty sweet- ness. Ryan also has a place in his heart for Prophets & Nomads Gose ( LCBO 511030, 473 mL, $3.25). This one is an unfiltered malted-wheat beer with a notably dry crispness and only subtle hopping. Coriander and Himalayan salt contribute to the beer’s unique, sharp and spicy flavour.

IT TAKES A LOT OF BEER TO MAKE… Rosewood Unoaked Chardonnay VQA ( LCBO 112151, $17.95). Some unoaked Chardonnays can seem nondescript; not this one! The absence of wood allows other subtleties to emerge—a bread-like note from ageing on the yeasty lees, a creaminess to the medium body from the malolactic change. There’s fresh acidity and the grape’s own aromas stand out proudly, reminiscent of yellow apple and pear with a hint of lemon zest. At the table, it’s a great match for simply prepared fish and shrimp dishes and nut-garnished salads.

PORTRAIT BY JAMES TSE

130  FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2017