LCBO Food & Drink Autumn 2017

Amanda Sentineal

BACKHOU S E 2 8 9 •2 7 2 • 1 2 4 2 , B AC K HOU S E . X Y Z

W

hen Chef Ryan Crawford and his partner opened backhouse last summer, he knew who he wanted as his sous-chef: Amanda Sentineal had worked there with him when the property was Stone Road Grille. A fifth-generation native of Niagara-on-the-Lake, she honed her skills at top winery restaurants Hillebrand, Peller Estates and Ravine. She and her sister are also farmers—as is Crawford—and much of their produce finds its way onto backhouse’s fascinating tasting menus. Customers who sit at the counter can watch the action as dishes are cooked on an open fire or in a wood-fired oven—and that’s where the brigade of 20 gathers every afternoon for the staff meal. “It’s nice to sit down and take a deep breath before a really intense service,” says Sentineal, 31. And when she’s not working? “I like doing anything outside—golf, tennis, gardening. But somehow on every day off I end up cooking.”

PAIR IT WITH

Customers have ringside seats at backhouse’s counter, chatting with the chef and sous-chef while they cook.

Burrowing Owl Chardonnay VQA VINTAGES 208694, $33.95

This rich, ripe, full-bodied star from B.C. has a lot going for it beyond the upfront illusions of apple and pear. Amanda Sentineal points out that “the aroma of freshly baked bread complements the toasted sourdough perfectly while the notes of nut butter and caramel lend themselves nicely to the honey-roasted vegetables on the tartine.” We couldn’t agree more—and there’s enough acidity in this com- plicated balancing act to keep the wine nim- ble. Watch for the new vintage (2015) as part of the VINTAGES September 30 release.

“My farming experience definitely helps in the kitchen—knowing when things are fresh and of good quality, whether it was raining when the lettuce was picked.”

88  FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2017