LCBO Food & Drink Autumn 2018

AUTUMN 2018

25 th anniversary collector ’ s edition

D ying the o s . ty s VQA wi s.

r ca a , a brave group of pioneers had a vision to transform the Ontario wine industry.

Their mission – to make world class wines in Ontario.

No one thought we could do it,

but h e e…

And the international wine world has noticed. Ontario VQA wines are leading the cool climate wine scene, winning prestigious awards and receiving international acclaim.

thank

to our rebels, our rule changers, our renegades… for inspiring our industry to greatness.

So,

’re ju ing d.

The best part is –

…so pull up a chair.

Bring Home

Fall in love with wines from our own backyard. With over 800+ delicious Ontario wines to choose from, it’s easy to bring local home today.

RED HOUSEWINE CO. BACO CABERNET SAUVIGNON VQA 279521 750 mL $13.95 MEDIUM BODIED & FRUITY D 16 g/L

MUSKOKA LAKES CRANBERRYWINE 609701 750 mL $16.95 MEDIUM S 108 g/L

FLAT ROCK TWISTEDWHITE VQA 1578 750 mL $17.95 AROMATIC & FLAVOURFUL M 22 g/L A Vintages Essential*

PROUDLY CANADIAN

BACON MUSHROOM BREAD STUFFING Scan the code for this recipe or visit lcbo.recipes/8703

FLATTENED ROAST TURKEY WITH DUCK AND POMEGRANATE

PORT REDUCTION Scan the code for this recipe or visit lcbo.recipes/8704

Featured products available at select LCBO stores. Prices subject to change without notice. *VintagesEssentialsCollection isalways availableatmanyLCBO locations.Visit vintages.com/essentials 29596

N E W

D ISCOVER N EW 78% C ACAO Awaken your senses with our newest rich dark chocolate. Masterfully balanced smooth cocoa with sophisticated flavours of toasted nuts complemented by elegant floral tones. Every creamy and delicate piece of 78% Cacao is an experience worth savouring. Discover the world of Excellence: a variety of exquisite chocolate recipes created with passion. Lindt Master Chocolatiers since 1845. SOTHIN. SO INTENSE. SENSE THE EXCELLENCE.

Lindt Excellence Canada

LindtExcellence.com

A D V E R T I S I N G F E A T U R E

78% CACAO CHOCOLATE PAIRED WITH NEWWORLD CABERNET SAUVIGNON

When serving red wine with dark chocolate that has a higher cacao percentage, a New World Cabernet Sauvignon is an excellent choice. The flavourful Cabernet Sauvignons fromAustralia and California are typically aged in a mix of French and American oak barrels. Notes of toasted nuts, vanilla and spice complement the round, smooth cocoa and smoky flavours of Lindt Excellence 78% Cacao. This charming Sterling Vintner’s Collection Cabernet Sauvignon features lively aromas and flavours of cherry, dark spicy fruit and cassis with hints of mocha, which pair seamlessly with the well-balanced, earthy and rich flavours of Lindt Excellence 78% Cacao.

You’ll need: Excellence 78% Cacao , FOR MORE CHOCOLATE INSPIRATION, VISIT LINDTEXCELLENCE.COM

our craft, your art. ™

baked in small batches since 1998 “I believe that the art of entertaining is in the details. Made in Canada, my lesley stowe raincoast crisps are meticulously crafted in small batches and hand-packed to be the perfect blank canvas.”

®

new

Try our new lesley stowe raincoast cheese crisps ™ – the only crisp with cheese baked right in. For pairing inspiration and where to nd our products, visit lesleystowe.com .

TABLE OF CONTENTS

66

special occasions

42 ONTARIO FOR DINNER By James Chatto & Lucy Waverman Share in celebrating our 25th anniversary—and VQA’s 30th—with a dinner menu that pays tribute to Ontario’s exceptional autumn produce and wines. 50 THE ART OF ENTERTAINING By James Chatto Whether you’re hosting or attending, these thoughtful tips and suggestions will help you decide what to serve or bring— to ensure you are a gracious host or guest.

56 AN AFFAIR TO REMEMBER By Lucy Waverman

If you’re celebrating one of life’s big milestones, give the guest or guests of honour their due by hosting a formal dinner party.

66 SAVOURY SURPRISES By Joanne Yolles

We didn’t forget cake! But we’ve given these cakes a savoury twist, making them perfect for any time of day.

ON THE COVER Ontario for Dinner, starting on page 42. Photography by Rob Fiocca

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2018 7

TABLE OF CONTENTS

DINNER PARTI ES

77 COCKTAIL HOUR

By Amy Rosen, Michelle Hunt & Laura Panter Instead of a dinner party, consider classic cocktails served alongside heartier meatless hors d’oeuvre.

87 COMBINATION CELEBRATION By Jennifer MacKenzie

For a multi-celebration party with a larger crowd, these sublime recipes will please a wide variety of tastes.

97 YOUR TURN TO HOST By Julia Aitken

21

When your turn comes up to have people round for dinner, choose classic refinement and ease with this menu.

105 GAME NIGHT DINNER

By Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic A laid-back supper with friends, perfect for a big game, binge-watching a hot show, or hosting a cards night.

115 THE FIRST-TIME HOST By Eric Vellend

PARTY STARTERS

If you’re new to hosting, this menu is special yet easy enough for a first-timer to tackle.

21 GREET YOUR GUESTS By James Chatto

123 ENTERTAINING WITH KIDS By Eshun Mott

Punch, sparkling cocktails or aperitifs—what to serve as guests arrive.

A kid-friendly Vietnamese barbecue lets picky eaters choose exactly what they want.

27 LIGHT BITES

By Food & Drink Recipe Developers Modern hors d’oeuvre for any occasion that won’t fill you up before dinner.

27

33 ENTERTAINING ESSENTIALS By Brenda Morrison

Practical advice and shopping tips for all the elements to have on hand.

160 PARTING GIFTS

By Christopher St. Onge Send your guests on their way with a sweet treat that says “thanks for coming!” IN EVERY ISSUE

12 EDITOR’S NOTES 159 RECIPE INDEX 159 SOURCE RESOURCE

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VP Marketing ..................................Kerri Dawson Editor .................................................Jody Dunn Art Directors ...................................Karen Lim, Cathy Cicchini

Senior Editor ...................................James Chatto Food Editor .......................................Lucy Waverman

Contributing Editors ....................Charlene Rooke, Kat Tancock Publication Coordinators ..........Margot Blais, Leslie Virdo Graphic Designers .........................Wincy Law, Dominique Patafio, Pat Turbach Production Manager ...................Mark Greene Production Coordinator .............Judy Haverkort Publication Assistant .................Piper MacFadyen Production Assistant ...................Everton Smith Food Stylists ....................................Eshun Mott, Christopher St. Onge Prop Stylists ....................................Catherine MacFadyen, Andrea McCrindle, Shelly Shnier Contributors ...................................Julia Aitken, Marilyn Bentz-Crowley,

Michelle Hunt, Anna Kohn, Signe Langford, Michelle Lucas Larving, Jennifer MacKenzie, Jennifer McLagan, Brenda Morrison, Eshun Mott, Laura Panter, Michelle Rabin, Amy Rosen, Monda Rosenberg, Christopher St. Onge, Heather Trim, Eric Vellend, Victoria Walsh, Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic, Joanne Yolles

COMING NEXT ISSUE A MONTH OF SUNDAYS Kitchen projects for December weekends POTLUCK PLEASURES Delicious dishes to bring to a party HAPPY NEW YEAR! An evening of small plates, pairings and fun BAKED GOODIES Cookies for dessert

Publisher ..........................................Wayne Leek

For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about LCBO products and policy please contact helloLCBO online at hellolcbo.com, or call toll-free 800•668•5226 or 416•365•5900. TTY Only: 416•864•6898 or 800•361•3291. For advertising in Food & Drink magazine, please contact Keystone Media, 416•224•1500 or e-mail foodanddrink@keystonemedia.ca. All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the LCBO’s advertising agreement. Food & Drink is published six times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Volume 26, Number 1. Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 percent post-consumer fibre. Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs.

Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Drink , 55 Lake Shore Boulevard East, Toronto, ON, M5E 1A4 ISSN 1195-5988

WATCH FOR THE HOL I DAY I S S UE OF

Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all LCBO stores.

PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE. Cette publication est également disponible en français.

AVA I LABLE NOVEMBER 1 4

Many of the products featured in this issue are available to purchase online at lcbo.com.

10  FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2018

This year marks two occasions very special to us at the LCBO: Food & Drink magazine’s 25th year, and VQA Ontario’s 30th year. On behalf of everyone here, we proudly salute your collective excellence, and dedication to Ontario’s wine industry. George Soleas President and CEO of the LCBO You’ve been with us for years. Cheers!

EDITOR’S NOTES

It has been such fun over the course of the summer to watch our readers engage with us through our social media channels— picking your favourite covers of all time, commenting on much-loved recipes (both yours and ours), show- ing us your stacks of back issues and watching the videos in our behind- the-scenes posts—all leading up to the release of this, our 25th anniversary issue. Your passion has never been in doubt and, speaking for myself and the team, we are truly grateful and so very appreciative of that!    When deciding how best to cele- brate 25 years, we knew we wanted to honour that passion. So we put our heads together to determine what would be of the most value and ser- vice to our readers. Instead of o ering a retrospective, we decided to focus on the here-and-now and have created what we think is the ultimate guide to hosting a dinner party. We have considered every detail—from the moment the first guest walks through the door to the final farewell—to make this issue a useful resource no matter how you choose to entertain or what stage of life you are in. Whether it’s your first dinner party, or kids are on the guest list, or it’s your turn to host

the monthly Food & Drink supper club (we love hearing from those clubs!), each menu has been created with the occasion and attendees in mind. Each menu is also matched with drink suggestions and pairings (of course) to help ensure you can pull it all o with aplomb. We’ve also gathered 25 years of wisdom and advice, which you’ll find scattered throughout the pages. From how to set a table and pocket-fold a napkin to what to look for to make sure your accessories are on point and when to serve dinner after guests arrive, these tips help create what we hope is a highly collectible issue that you will turn to again and again and share with friends and family.    As we look to the future, we are very excited to be working on initia- tives that build o the strength of our print edition (which remains the core and essence of who we are) so that you can connect with us across more platforms and so that we can connect more directly with you. Keep an eye on lcbo.com and @lcbo on Twitter, Facebook and Instagram—and (coming soon!) Pinterest—for more content and information on where to find us.    Cheers to 25 years and especially to you, our dear readers!

PORTRAIT BY JAMES TSE

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN

25 for

52

To celebrate Food & Drink ’s 25th we’ve chosen 25 favourite Ontario VQA wines. Our list is a glorious cross-section of Ontario’s di erent wine regions, a collection of classics and crowd- pleasers featuring all the province’s top grape varieties. There are wines here to suit every taste—and every budget—all of them famously food- friendly and all great examples of the quality VQA stands for. Together they show how well we do wine inOntario—25 iconicwines for 25 delicious years of Food & Drink magazine.    You can find these wines at your local store or shop the entire col- lection online at: lcbo.com/VQA #OntarioForDinner #FoodAndDrink25

FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER

FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2018 3

Ontario Dinner for

#OntarioForDinner #VQAwithDinner

Share your experience at

SEPTEMBER 16–OCTOBER 13 TASTE LOCAL 2018 Local VQA wines and local fare are being offered by many restaurants across Ontario. Visit any one of these places to savour a truly memorable culinary experience. For more details, visit lcbo.com/restaurants

Bayfield Black Dog Village Pub & Bistro Beamsville The Good Earth Bistro The Restaurant at Peninsula Ridge Burlington Son of a Peach Pizzeria Caledon Headwaters at Millcroft Inn & Spa Collingwood Azzurra Trattoria Etobicoke The Humber Room Guelph

Kingsville Mettawas Station

Ottawa Beckta Dining &Wine Clover food | drink Petit Bill’s Bistro Wilfrid’s Restaurant at Fairmont Château Laurier Palgrave The Church Public Inn † Picton Waupoos Estates Restaurant † St. Catharines The Coach House Café at Henry of Pelham Dani’s Bistro VQAWine Bar Sault Ste. Marie ViewRestaurant + Bar Simcoe Barrel Restaurant Stratford The Restaurant at The Bruce †

Toronto 360 The Restaurant at the CNTower † Allen’s

Kitchener Borealis Grille & Bar † Charcoal Steak House Dels Enoteca Pizzeria London Idlewyld Inn & Spa Mississauga Live Restaurant at the Living Arts Centre

Barque Butcher Bar Barque Smokehouse Café Belong † C’est What?

Chez NousWine Bar FARMHOUSE Tavern † FARMR Eatery & Catering † Globe Bistro Jacobs & Co. Steakhouse Koyoi Restaurant & Bar Le Sélect Bistro † Magic Oven on Danforth † Paintbox Bistro † TOCA at the Ritz Carlton Virgil The Farmhouse Café at Caroline Cellars Westport The Cove Country Inn & Spa Whitby Bistro ’67 † Windsor Rino’s Kitchen & Ale House †

Nepean Restaurant International at Algonquin College Niagara Falls Buchanans Steak & Seafood at DoubleTree FallsviewResort LEV2L Sports Bar & Entertainment at Casino Niagara Niagara-on-the-Lake Cannery at Pillar & Post Benchmark Restaurant HobNob Restaurant &Wine Bar at the Charles Inn Kitchen76 at Two Sisters Vineyards Tiara at Queen’s Landing Hotel Treadwell Farm-to-Table Cuisine

Borealis Grille & Bar † Miijidaa Café + Bistro † TheWooly Pub † Haliburton McKecks Tap & Grill

Thornbury BruceWine Bar Kitchen †

Kingston AquaTerra Kingston Kingston Brewing Company

TriusWinery Restaurant TheWinery Restaurant at Peller Estates † Zees Grill

We Love Wine Country Ontario designates these restaurants as proud to have Ontario VQAwines on the menu. † Feast On recognizes businesses that are truly dedicated to showcasing Ontario’s unique taste of place .

29678

Party Starters

18  FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2018

5

During Food & Drink ’s 25 years of writing about entertaining, we have come to understand that first impressions are very important, especially when you’re throwing a party. How things begin are often how they continue, and the warm welcome and hospitality must start as soon as your guests arrive. That’s why we’ve devoted a whole section of this issue to Party Starters. We explore your options where drinks are concerned —from classic aperitifs to enhanced bubbly to a signature punch you can adapt to honour the evening’s guests. Taking a culinary perspective, seven of our regular recipe developers have stepped with ideas for delectable light hors d’oeuvre . And there’s a whole article full of practical tips we think you’ll find useful when you set about prepping for a party, whatever the occasion. In it you’ll find suggestions for what you need, and how you can make sure everything is ready by the time your first guests arrive. Are these sorts of preparations really so important? We think so. The more you can do in advance to ensure your party’s success, the more likely it is to succeed—and the more you can feel free to enjoy the event you’ve worked so hard to put together. Follow our advice and you’ll even have time to put your feet up for a while before the doorbell rings. After that, let the party begin!

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN

PARTY STARTERS  GREET YOUR GUESTS GREET YOUR GUESTS NO MATTER WHAT THE ENTERTAINING OCCASION, GREET YOUR GUESTS WITH THESE STANDOUT WELCOME DRINKS.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

The Welcome Punch It’s lovely to greet your guests with a glass of cold sparkling punch at any time of the year. This recipe is a favourite because everyone loves the flavour, and most of the work can be done ahead of time; just add the ginger beer, bubbly and ice at the last minute. There’s no need to make too much—one 6-oz glass per guest is the idea (okay, maybe a top-up for the people who arrived first)—then move on to something else. There’s nothing worse than warm, flat, diluted punch that has been sitting on a table for an hour. With its fruit juices and ginger beer, this packs less of a punch than a glass of wine. recipe on page 147

Varying the white wine you use can make each

version unique, but choose something fresh, dry and unoaked that won’t overpower the bubbly. Two Oceans Pinot Grigio ( LCBO 295022, $10.35), with its stone fruit and tangy but subtle citrus notes, is ideal.

TAG IT Rename this punch for your own party, to suit the occasion or honour a special guest. Nicknames, inside jokes and puns welcome!

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2018 21

PARTY STARTERS  GREET YOUR GUESTS

Start the evening by putting a spark in your sparkling wine! As well as Champagne, there are many kinds of bubbly out there for all sorts of prices. Cava is ideal and here are two more—a Prosecco and a crémant—that are excellent examples of their styles. And the Prosecco is just right for our Welcome Punch on previous page. Dress UpYour Bubbly!

MAKE A SPLASH Quick additions that turn bubbles into cocktails.

Paul Delane Crémant de Bourgogne  LCBO 214981, $20.45 Val d’Oca Prosecco  LCBO 340570, $18.75

Fruitful Ideas Make a Mimosa by mixing 2 oz fresh orange juice with 3 oz bubbly. Or a Bellini with 1 oz fresh puréed white peach and 4 oz bubbly. Muddle 3 or 4 raspberries or blackberries in the bottom of the flute with 1 tbsp (15 mL) of Chambord Royale Raspberry Liqueur ( LCBO 111443, $42.20) and top up with bubbly—beautiful!

Nelson’s Blood A little-known masterpiece that’s equally good after dinner. Pour 1 oz ruby port into a Champagne flute; Sandeman’s Ruby Port ( LCBO 23366, $16.15) is perfect. Slowly add 3 oz tart brut bubbly.

that’s the spirit !

A spoonful of a liqueur or aperitif is all you need to turn a flute of bubbly into something extraordinary. If you want a layered-looking drink with a colourful layer sunken at the bottom, add a liqueur like Southbrook Framboise ( LCBO 341024, 375 mL, $19.95) or, for a turquoise Instagram moment, McGuinness Blue Curaçao ( LCBO 631200, $18.95) to the bubbly, tipping it carefully against the inside of the glass. If you want the ingredients to mix, add the bubbly very slowly to lighter apertifs like Aperol ( LCBO 176834, $27.30). Twists of orange zest or a couple of fresh raspberries make ideal garnishes.

The Kir Royale The great Burgundian cocktail is named for Felix Kir, the deputy mayor of Dijon during World War II and a hero of the French Resistance. Add 1 oz Labbe François Cassis ( LCBO 57281, $25.75) to 4 oz Crémant de Bourgogne. Garnish with an orange twist.

22  FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2018

Windy Isle, Canoe Lake Algonquin Park

TM

100% CERTIFIED • HANDCRAFTED

muskokaroastery.com

PARTY STARTERS  GREET YOUR GUESTS

THE SWEET ONES Try these sweeter aperitifs on the rocks with tonic and a lemon twist! Fonseca White Port ( LCBO 276816, $17.20) and Reynac Pineau des Charentes ( LCBO 372169, $22.55) both offer a hint of honey. Alizé Red ( LCBO 338053, $27.15) is all about passion fruit, enhanced with vodka. THE FORTIFIED FAMILY These delectable concoctions of wine, spirit, fruits and botanicals include Dolin Vermouth de Chambery Rouge ( LCBO 370841, $15.60) with its warm, fennel and herbal flavour, Lillet Blanc ( VINTAGES 322297, $19.10) with a scent of orange and vanilla, and Dubonnet ( LCBO 386334, $12.70)—blackcurrant and a trace of quinine. Serve them chilled and/or on the rocks. started their evenings with a favourite aperitif. There are many to choose from, but it helps to group them into extended families. Aperitifs For centuries, over in Europe, people have

THE BITTER GROUP Serve these with plenty of ice, soda water and an orange twist. Trendy Aperol ( LCBO 176834, $27.30, shown on previous page) is the slightly sweeter younger sibling of intense, bittersweet Campari ( LCBO 277954, $28.35). Pimm’s ( LCBO 282277, $29.10) is great with soda even without all its traditional fruits and herbs. Made from artichokes, Cynar ( VINTAGES 380832, $26.05) is a bittersweet herbal treat.

Use large cubes or spheres of ice — they melt more slowly.

Pour in moderation: aperitifs are slightly more potent than wine.

Destination Collection With the LCBO’s new Destination Collection you’ll experience an assortment of ever-changing offerings from around the world, each with a unique story to tell. It’s a great resource if you’re looking for something unusual that your guests may not have come across be- fore. Available to purchase online, visit lcbo.com and click on Destination Collection to find out more.

24  FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2018

Here’stocreatingparties you’ll neverforget andmoments you’ll actuallyremember.

Since 1993, Food & Drink has encouraged water breaks and made moderation fun with helpful tips and recipes for inventive mocktails and tasty bites.

For more info visit alwaystakingcare.ca

CONGRATULAT IONS FOOD & DR INK TM It’s your silver anniversary, but we brought the gold.

RumChata®. Caribbean Rum with Real Dairy Cream, Natural & Artificial Flavors, 13.7% alc/vol. Agave Loco Brands, Pewaukee, WI. Please Enjoy Responsibly. RUMCHATA and CHATA are Registered Trademarks of Agave Loco, LLC. Product of the USA.

PARTY STARTERS  LIGHT BITES LIGHT BITES GET ANY PARTY STARTED WITH LIGHT, MODERN HORS D’OEUVRE THAT WON’T FILL YOU UP BEFORE DINNER.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

Serrano-Wrapped Heirloom Carrots recipe on page 156

GUEST TIP Don’t be early: your

host needs those last few minutes to prep for the party. Sit in your car, walk around the block, or go get a bag of ice!

SERVING SUGGESTION Dry Sherry Spain’s treasured dry sherries can unlock a wealth of wine exper­ iences, and they are particularly suited to appetizers and starters. Fino sherries are a brilliant choice with roasted nuts, olives or ser­ rano ham. The amontillado style is a wonderful partner for mature cheeses. Manzanilla sherries are a natural pairing for shellfish.

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2018 27

PARTY STARTERS LIGHT BITES

Smoked Duck & Autumn Fruit Skewers recipe on page 154

Marinated King Oyster Mushrooms Rolled with Tarragon

Goat Cheese recipe on page 152

Charred Eggplant with Crispy Flatbread recipe on page 155

SERVING SUGGESTION

QUICK PICK For impromptu or

Southern Italian Reds Party planning always starts with a budget, and the red wines of southern Italy represent some of the best values on LCBO shelves. Grape varieties such as Aglianico, Negroamaro and Primitivo produce honest wines that are robust and full of character. With grippy tannins and nervy acidity, these wines come into their own with food and have a particular affinity for grilled or roasted dishes, with Negroamaro and Primitivo being particularly inspired pairings for smoked meats.

last-minute entertaining, try Greek skewers (feta cube, black olive, cherry tomato, oregano leaf) or Italian (mini-mozza ball, prosciutto roll, cherry tomato, basil leaf) for tasty “salad” apps.

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN

Please enjoy our wines responsibly.

CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI DEL REGOLAMENTO CE n. 1308/13 CAMPAIGN FINANCED IN ACCORDING TO REGULATION EC n. 1308/13

PARTY STARTERS  LIGHT BITES

HOST TIP Turn down the thermostat 2 degrees (more if you have a fireplace lit or the oven blazing all day) about an hour before guests arrive; dim lights; start music at conversation level (turn down as people arrive).

Maple-Roasted Figs with Walnuts, Bacon & Tahini recipe on page 154

SERVING SUGGESTION

Sauvignon Blanc With bright, fresh, juicy flavours and crisp herbaceous character, Sauvignon Blanc is a go-to wine for entertaining. Sauvignon’s energetic personality stands up to the assertive flavours of appetizers and copes with foods that are known to be tricky to pair, like artichokes or aspara­ gus. Its crisp structure is in harmony with high-acid dishes, creating a match of equals with raw tomatoes, citrusy salads or tangy balsamic-based dressings.

House Olives recipe on page 154

Establish a charging station (accessible power bar with your own charging cable, or rechargeable battery pack) for guests. POWER TO THE PARTY

30  FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2018

Bring home your favourite coffee from the grocery store and make it a Saturday – or Sunday – to savour.

Visit myStarbucksweekend.com to discover new ways to enjoy coffee.

© 2018 Starbucks Coffee Company. All rights reserved.

PARTY STARTERS  ENTERTAINING ESSENTIALS ENTERTAINING ESSENTIALS BY BRENDA MORRISON  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI WITH 25 YEARS OF ENTERTAINING EXPERIENCE, WE’RE SERVING UP PRACTICAL ADVICE AND SHOPPING TIPS FOR ALL THE ESSENTIALS YOU NEED TO HOST A DINNER PARTY. Set The Table Choose timeless classics.

Table Linens More durable than cotton, worry-free

Stemware Ensure wine glasses fit in the top rack of your dishwasher. Otherwise, be prepared to hand wash.

white linen can be bleached if stained.

Dinnerware, stemware, flatware. Much like fashion and deciding what to wear, start with the basics, layer pieces on the table and then accessorize with seasonal or trendy items.

SEE SOURCE RESOURCE

Pick one metallic—silver, pewter, gold—and stick with it for all your

acquisitions. The same goes for selecting anything made of wood: walnut, maple, acacia— choose one. It will simplify shopping decisions and unify the look on your table.

Hate ironing? Polyester table linens are by far the easiest to care for. Just wash and dry.

Dinnerware Basic white is your best bet to showcase any meal. And while it may be pricier, dishwasher- safe bone china reigns supreme for durability.

Flatware  Get set to entertain with a set of 12 place settings. Skip sterling silver: 18/10 stainless steel is scratch-resistant and dishwasher-safe.

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2018 33

PARTY STARTERS ENTERTAINING ESSENTIALS

Dinner Is Served Focus on function and invest in quality.

You don’t have to be getting married to set up a gift registry with major houseware retailers. Register your entertaining essentials: for holiday and birthday gifting, friends and family will appreciate that you’ve made yourself easy to shop for. Plus, they’ll enjoy seeing the gifts put to use when you have them over for dinner.

Keep in pristine condition by never cutting on the board. Use a separate board for cutting bread, slicing cheese, etc.

SERVING BOWLS Stock up on serving bowls of various sizes, ideally ones that can stack for compact storage.

You’ll need extra serving spoons for side dishes.

FOOD BOARD Long, narrow, wooden serving boards are ideal for setting right in the middle of a dining table, leaving charcuterie, cheeses and appetizers within easy arm’s reach for all.

Serving Sets Begin with a full Hostess Set (serving spoon, slotted spoon, oversized fork, cake knife, butter knife and sugar spoon) and a Carving Set.

OVERSIZE SERVEWARE 

Don’t be caught off guard without something to serve a large salad in. Also have at least one large white platter for serving appetizers, burgers, slices of roast, etc.

Be equi ed with a premium quality Laguiole waiter’s corkscrew to open wine —designed for long-lasting functionality and performance.

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN

NEWClarity Ruby Red is a focused blend made from grapes harvested from Ontario vineyards. With an unmatched smoothness and hints of summer fruit, it’s perfectly balanced for those not-so-perfect-never-ending-ish kind of days. Because in today’s hectic world, it’s all about Clarity.

@sipclaritywine

PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY.

PARTY STARTERS  ENTERTAINING ESSENTIALS

Delicious Details Trust your great taste and add personal touches. Make any meal a memorable occasion by taking the time to focus on the smallest of details—from presentation to ambiance—to create an outstanding experience and lasting impression.

Cups and Saucers Mugs are for everyday use, but for dinner parties serve coffee or tea in cups with saucers.

Have an extra vase handy in case a guest shows up with fresh flowers.

Pedestals & Tiered Stands

From appetizers to desserts, whatever food is being served looks extra special when presented up on a pedestal or in tiers. And it’s a smart way to present food when you’re challenged for space.

Keep a pitcher of water on the

CANDLELIGHT Flameless Abbott Reallites (abbottcollection.com) with a flickering faux flame are a safe, worry-free, drip-free alternative to lighting candles at the table.

table to pass around or for guests to help themselves, even

if everyone is drinking wine.

MUSIC Create a playlist or choose a streaming channel well in advance of the party. Being able to control the volume with a remote or your phone means not having to get up in the middle of the meal.

Coffee Pot Even if you own a single-serve coffee machine, it’s wise to have an option to brew coffee for all your guests at once.

36  FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2018

Yourguests willmelt.

You might want to serve all three of these apps at your next gathering. And that’s ok. They’re brimming with PC ® Black Label Isle of Man – a distinctly creamy aged cheddar, crafted using traditional methods with locally sourced milk from grass-fed cows. Matured for 14 months, it has a sweet, nutty avour and a satisfying “crunch” that will keep everyone coming back for more.

Find more ways to play at pc.ca/blacklabel

All trademarks & logos are trademarks of Loblaws Inc. ©2018 Loblaws Inc. All rights reserved.

START

1

unroll

Unroll 1 sheet of chilled, thawed PC ® Butter Puff Pastry

2

Shred

PC ® BLACK LABEL ISLE OF MAN EXTRA OLD

CHEDDAR CHEESE AGED 14 MONTHS

3

Choose your app

CREAMY ONION CHEDDAR TARTLETS

HAM AND CHEDDAR PULL-APART ROLLS

SPICY CHEESE TWISTS

Cut pastry in half. Spread grainy Dijon mustard down centre of each piece. Sprinkle shredded cheese and chopped Black Forest ham over top. Fold pastry over lling; crimp edges. Cut each piece into 8 strips. Sprinkle with shredded cheese. Bake in 400°F (200°C) oven until golden, 22 – 24 min.

Cut pastry into 20 rectangles. Press into mini muf n tin to make cups. Stir together shredded cheese, cream cheese and PC ® Black Label Onion Cabernet Wine Jelly. Spoon into cups; chill. Bake in 375°F (190°C) oven until golden, 20 min.

Spread bottom half of pastry with PC ® Black Label Peperoncini Chopped Hot Chili Peppers in Oil and sprinkle with shredded cheese and salt. Fold and press to adhere. Cut into 20 strips. Twist ends in opposite directions to make spirals. Sprinkle with shredded cheese. Bake in 400°F (200°C) oven until golden, 12 – 14 min.

4

Dip or dollop

PC ® BLACK LABEL MARINARA PASTA SAUCE

PC ® BLACK LABEL ONION CABERNET WINE JELLY

PC ® BLACK LABEL SPICY HORSERADISH PREPARED MUSTARD

#PlayWithYourFood

Special Occasions

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5

It’s amazing to look back and see that F d & Drink has spent a quarter of a century coming up with ideas for di er parties. We’ve done a lot more than that, of course, but the pleasure and the art and occasionally even the science of entertaining has always lain at the core of our being. If magazine journalism is sometimes a bit of a zoo, we are the ultimate party animal. And what has experience taught us? That the big, important family gatherings are often the most tiring and the most difficult to get right. It might be a formal dinner party to mark some milestone event. It might be a gathering in the garden for the whole fam damily—an occasion to entertain in the most traditional way, or to use (well-thought-out) improvisation to outsmart every eventuality. This section deals with those special occasions— big-ticket entertaining where you decide to reay push the boat out in honour of an important birthday, anniversary, graduation, engagement party or because it’s a seasonal holiday like Easter or Christmas. So here you’ll find our take on a formal party and on an Ontario-themed outdoor gathering that could work beautifully for Thanksgiving. We’ve also put together an article you can use as a checklist whether you are the host or the guest, a charter of rights and responsibilities we believe can enhance an evening for everyone. It’s customary on many occasions to finish things up with a cake. We’re all in favour of custom, though this time we’ve customized it in our way with a feature on savoury cakes—super recipes for treats you can bring out in all sorts of situations where a grand gesture is required. Tradition—with a modern and original twist—guarant d to give pleasure… like a the best di er parties.

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Ontario Join us in celebrating Ontario’s fall bounty and two important anniversaries—our 25th and VQA’s 30th—with a menu and matching wines that come together for the ultimate autumn dinner party. for dinner BY JAMES CHATTO & LUCY WAVERMAN  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

FOOD & DRINK ’S 25 TH isn’t the only an- niversary we’re recognizing in this issue. The Vintners Quality Alliance turns 30 this year and that is certainly cause for celebration. It’s amazing to think how far our wine in- dustry has come in the last three decades, travelling a road mapped out by the VQA’s high standards and guiding principles.     To honour that achievement, we’ve put together a menu that could be described as the ultimate Ontario autumn dinner party. We went back into our archives to find favourite recipes, then tweaked them

a little to bring them up to date. Each one is fairly simple to make, letting one or two prime ingredients shine without a great deal of fuss—because that’s the third thing we wanted to celebrate with this menu: the dazzlingly delicious quality of On- tario’s fall produce. Our farmers coax the absolute best out of their land, just as our grape growers do. So whether you cook the whole menu or just choose dishes that look particularly tempting, you can enjoy the lo- cal, seasonal flavours of Ontario’s harvest, paired, of course, with our own VQA wines.

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Apple Spritzer with Château Des Charmes Brut MÉthode Traditionnelle VQA LCBO 224766, $25.95 Greet your guests with this complex and delicious cocktail (recipe on page 158) that’s based on the quintessential Ontario fall fruit—our fabulous apples. Use a craft Ontario cider and add spirited depth with a little Calvados and Cognac, then top it up with a brut Ontario bubbly. Our local sparkling wines are now the equal of any, and this one, made with 75percent Chardonnay and 25percent Pinot Noir, is per- fect for our cocktail. It’s not completely dry and is generous with its fruity aromas and flavours—apple and pear with a hint of honeysuckle. Garnish each drink with—what else—apple.

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Cheddar Cups with Fresh Tomato Relish & Crispy Pancet ta with Grange Of Prince Edward Gamay Noir VQA LCBO 615062, $17.50 Why choose this particular Gamay Noir to go with an appetizer (recipe on page 156) that features sweet, tangy, fresh Ontario tomatoes at the peak of their season? Gamay was one of the original three varieties Caroline Granger planted at her winery in the heart of Prince Edward County, back in 2001. Today, the vines are thoroughly mature and the wine they produce has its own lively acidity and bright cherry and red berry flavours, with a beguiling hint of spice. It all adds up to a great match for the tomatoes, and a lovely contrast with the rich, cheesy pastry cups.

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Roasted Garlic & Pumpkin Soup with Strewn Barrel aged Chardonnay VQA LCBO 522730, $14.95

This soup (recipe on page 158) was originally part of a Halloween menu in Food & Drink ’s Autumn 2011 issue, where we called it Vampire’s Demise, thanks to the roasted garlic in the recipe. Its deep nutty flavour har- monizes beautifully with the pumpkin and also with this oak-aged Chardonnay, a varietal that always pairs well with any kind of squash. Chardonnay takes many forms in Ontario’s wine regions and is justly celebrated. Strewn’s version, made with fruit from vineyards around Niagara-on-the-Lake, shows a soft texture with creamy, peachy notes and buttery vanilla oak. It’s a real crowd-pleaser—and excellent value for money!

Grilled Zucchini & Buffalo Mozzarella Salad with Henry Of Pelham Rosé VQA LCBO 613471, $14.95 In case you hadn’t noticed, dry, sophisticated rosé VQA wines are becom- ing increasingly popular—year-round! Henry of Pelham’s version is made from a blend of six different red varieties that combine to create both a fragrant aroma and the taste of Morello cherries and ripe red apple. That fruitiness adds a new dimension to the salad (recipe on page 157) and pairs particularly well with the creamy buffalo mozzarella cheese in the recipe. Meanwhile, the wine’s discreet acidic tang picks up the lightly charred flavours of the zucchini. Refresh the wine by chilling it, but not too much or you’ll mute the fruit.

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BBQ Lamb with Roasted Vegetables and Crispy Baked Potato Chips with Creekside Syrah VQA LCBO 66654, $15.95 Ontario lamb is as good as any we’ve tasted, especially when you cook it on the barbecue and get all the juicy gradations in the meat from crispy to medium-rare. We’ve taken our wine-matching lead from Australia and paired it up with a Syrah, though ours is from Niagara not Oz. Creekside planted Syrah almost 20 years ago and has stuck by the cold-sensitive variety when many other growers gave up. Robust, medium-bodied, tangy and full of black cherry, plum and black pepper flavours, it’s a little bit of an unexpected choice, just like our potato chip side dish—a fun change from other potato recipes. Recipes on pages 156 & 157.

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Plum and Blueberry Shooters with Peller Estates Ice Cuvée VQA LCBO 284547, $34.95 A red icewine might seem the obvious choice for a dessert made with ripe Ontario plums and blueberries, but these shooters (recipe on page 158) aren’t very sweet at all, so let’s go with something more subtle. Ice Cuvée is a traditional-method sparkling wine finished with a dosage of Vidal icewine—a brilliant idea that adds a touch of sweetness and some exotic lemon marmalade and pineapple nuances to the bubbly. A unique Ontario product, the wine is best served well-chilled, in Champagne flutes—the perfect presentation if someone wishes to propose a toast. Cheers!

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GLASSWARE

➤ Of course, it’s possible to buy special glassware for every kind of wine and alco- holic drink, but you can get away with much less. Champagne flutes are best for bubbly but you can also serve it in a versatile glass such as Riedel’s Zinfandel/Riesling glass, which is fine for all whites, light reds and sparkling wines (from $15 per glass at major retailers). Big red wines need a slightly larger glass such as the Riedel Overture Magnum ($14.95 per glass at riedel.com). ➤ Dessert wines and liqueurs also need their own small tulip-shaped glasses.

➤ When buying a large quantity of party- friendly glasses, keep the sturdy storage box they came in, to spare your cup- board space. ➤ Hand-wash crystal in warm water and mild soap, rinsing very thoroughly. Dry with a linen or microfibre cloth. Dish- washer-safe glasses get a warm-water cycle on their own (no dirty dishes), with no rinse aid and a little fragrance-free soap or white vinegar. Open the door for humidity-free drying; if needed, hand- polish with a linen or microfibre cloth.

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ENTERTAINING the art of

BY JAMES CHATTO  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

When you’re hosting or attending an event, these thoughtful tips and suggestions— suited to all occasions—will help make hospitality a real pleasure.

we have gathered over the years at Food & Drink . We’ve also included suggestions for wines, beers and other drinks that have proven to be surefire crowd-pleasers, whether brought to the party by a guest or proudly served by the host. There’s a special pleasure in the giving and receiving of hospitality; we hope our ideas help enhance that pleasure for you.

EVERYONE KNOWS it takes a certain amount of planning to have a successful dinner party—and frankly, that’s part of the fun. And while every event is unique and has its own style and menu (as the other stories in this issue show), there are still some general rules that apply to just about every occasion. Here we’d like to share some of the tips and good advice for hosts—and guests—that

Guests can hang on to their glass all evening long at a casual gathering, but if you’re sitting down to dine, consider setting pristine new glasses on the table.

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The Educated Guest There’s as much of an art to being a delightful guest as there is to being a hospitable host. With these tips, increase your odds of being invited back.

Decide how much you want to spend on the wine you bring. Here are some suggestions that are guaranteed to please.

➤ Always bring at least one bottle of wine to a dinner party (and don’t be insulted if it isn’t served; it’s for the host). At a barbecue, bring a grill-friendly red wine such as Chianti Classico or Shiraz. If you know there will be oysters, bring a crisp dry white such as Cha- blis or Muscadet. Pizza calls for a lively red like Ontario Gamay or Cabernet Franc. Off- dry Riesling works well with Asian food. If you don’t know your hosts or what is be- ing served, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are always safe bets. WHAT TO BRING ➤ ➤

TREAT RED Masi Costasera Amarone Classico ( LCBO 317057, $43.05)

TREAT WHITE Tawse Sketches of Niagara Chardonnay VQA ( VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 89037, $22.20)

MID-RANGE RED Catena Malbec ( VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 478727, $19.95)

MID-RANGE WHITE Left Field Nelson Sauvignon Blanc ( LCBO 487496, $19.15)

BARGAIN RED Nederburg The Winemaster’s Cabernet Sauvignon ( LCBO 111526, $13.30)

Arriving with cut flowers creates a task for your host. A potted plant, flowers in a vase or flowers delivered ahead of the party work nicely.

BARGAINWHITE Viña Chocalan Chardonnay Reserva ( LCBO 487280, $13.80)

POTTED PLANT BY VINCE NOGUCHI

GO BEYOND WINE with a gift of a digestif like Nonino Quintessentia Amaro ( VINTAGES 933796, $49.05) or Calvados Boulard Pays d’Auge ( LCBO 296228, $50.15) or Sandro Bottega Club Grappa ( LCBO 478156, $30.90).

If you know your host is a beer aficionado, a prized brew in a large, handsome bottle will certainly be welcomed. Here are two possibili- ties: Chimay Première ( LCBO 198069, 750 mL, $8.05); La Trappe Tripel ( LCBO 413575, 750 mL, $8.10).

Cleverly named craft beers can be an affectionate in-joke for host gifts: like Beau’s Lug Tread Lagered Ale ( LCBO 169334, 4 pk, $16.95) for road warriors or Great Lakes Brewing’s Pompous Ass Ale ( LCBO 408054, 473 mL, $2.65) if you know an Englishman with a sense of humour.

Always secure a tag to your gift: the host won’t re­ member who brought what.

Chocolates or other sweet treats, homemade preserves or bottled cocktails, a book you love, beautiful hand soaps and special tea or coffee make great host gifts. You could even bring a toy or treats for a family pet whose needs you know well!

CHOCOLATES BY JAMES TSE

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The Perfect Host How to cover all your bases where drinks are concerned? Decide things in advance and have something ready to open, whatever happens.

MATCHING WINE TO FOOD This is a personal matter, to be sure. Some people couldn’t care less, but most understand that a harmonious match enhances both the food and the wine served with it. Many of the old rules have lost their authority but some truths still hold good. ➤ Before considering aromatics and flavours, think about the weight of the food you’re serving. ➤ Rich, heavy dishes generally fare best with full-bodied wines; lighter dishes like lighter wines. ➤ Sharp acidity in the dish calls for a wine with sound acidity of its own. ➤ Sweet foods need a wine that’s a little sweeter, or the wine will taste thin. ➤ Consider the progression of dishes and drinks during the entire evening. Where do you start and where do you want it to end. It can be tough to go from a big wine to a delicate wine. ➤ Are you going to match every course with a different wine? Or even a couple of different wines? You will need plenty of clean glasses. ➤ For sound matching suggestions take advantage of the advice your LCBO product consultants can offer.

Wines for a Large Party There’s a ton of people coming round and a ton of things left to do—no time to ponder which wines to serve. Here are three crowd-pleasers that won’t break the bank. For red, TheWolftrap Syrah Mourvedre Viognier ( LCBO 292557, $14.30), a hearty South African blend of Rhône varietals, has wide appeal. For white, Cono Sur Bicicleta Viognier ( LCBO 64287, $11.05)—from Chile, it’s one of those wines that makes everyone say, “Wow this is delicious! What is it?” For rosé, Ogier Cotes du Ventoux Rosé AOC ( LCBO 134916, $14.25) is an ele­ gant, dry blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault that tastes delectably of wild strawberries.

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Pudding Wines Two can’t-miss selections. For chocolate or caramel desserts turn to Graham’s 20 Year Old Tawny Port ( LCBO 620641, 500 mL, $38.45)—it’s spectac­ ular value. For fruity desserts, especially sweets featuring apples or peaches, Henry of Pelham Special Select Late Harvest Vidal VQA ( LCBO 395228, 375 mL, $19.95) is your solution. HOWMANY BOTTLES TO BUY? A bottle of wine contains 750 mL of liquid. That’s 26 fluid oz. So you can get six generous four-oz glasses from a bottle. A 750-mL bottle of spirit will give you 26 one-oz pours. Remember, you can return unopened bottles to the LCBO!

SUREFIRE SUGGESTIONS

Treats There should always be a surprise at a dinner party— perhaps an original aperitif or an unexpected cocktail. Or maybe just rather a special wine, brought out with a discreet flourish to accompany something particularly delicious on the menu. One red that fits the bill is Castello di Neive Barbaresco DOCG ( LCBO 160143, $28.30), a dry, full-bodied Nebbiolo that’s great with red meat. A white treat, perfect for seafood, is bone-dry minerally Albert Bichot Chablis AOC ( LCBO 458851, $23.10).

Anyone for a Nightcap?

Beers to Have on Hand You’re planning on serving wine but a guest may surprise you by asking for beer. Keep a couple of good-quality, characterful beers that will satisfy ale aficionados and lager lovers alike. Innis & Gunn Original ( LCBO 334037, 500 mL, $3.05) is a Scotch ale aged in whisky barrels, giving it toffee and malted vanilla notes. Hop City Barking Squirrel Lager ( LCBO 267773, 473 mL, $3.20) is a refreshing amber lager with toasty malts and easygoing hops.

Most of the guests have gone home but the evening isn’t quite over. Time to haul out one of these little beauties. Top-quality tequila is the trendiest nightcap of all these days—and it doesn’t have to be aged. Casamigos Tequila Blanco ( LCBO 386789, $59.75) is super smooth with floral and grapefruit aromatics. What’s not to love about Highland Park 18 Year Old ( LCBO 500231, $195.80), one of the greatest single malts of all time? Rich, heather- honeyed, fruity, it evolves on the palate as seconds turn into minutes. A work of art.

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TOUCH personal Order “house” (or occasion-specific) swizzle sticks, coasters, cocktail or dinner napkins from an online or local party store (like weddingfavours.ca, which has tons of non-bridal designs) with your family initials, colours, crest or an original design.

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BY LUCY WAVERMAN  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE an affair to remember If you’re up for hosting a formal dinner party, our exceptional menu— accompanied by all manner of advice—leaves nothing to guesswork. A MEMORABLE OCCASION calls for a special celebration. Our formal, silver anniversary dinner is a feast of fresh tastes and textures guaranteed to delight all the guests. This dinner is perfect for all of life’s milestone occasions—an important birthday, a wedding anniversary or a retirement party.     We start with caviar. Choose a kind that suits your budget and also offer grilled mushroom summer rolls as a vegan and gluten-free alternative. A quick sauté of scallops with a prepared lime butter is followed by a simple, flavourful make-ahead soup, heightened with a touch of vinegary pickle.     The beef fillet is slow-roasted ahead of time and then finished in a searingly hot oven before serving and the dessert is a deconstructed lemon meringue pie with its elements broken up. Again, the elements are make-ahead, to be put together on the day of the party. It looks stunning and is the perfect ending to this sumptuous dinner.     Our tips will help you fill in the details that need to be considered for this sort of dinner party. We have suggestions to do with inviting your guests, seating them, and dealing (gently) with late­ comers, not to mention priming someone to set the tone for toasts. Candles and flowers have not been forgotten—and if it all sounds a bit too daunting, consider treating yourself to some serving or kitchen help so that you can enjoy the party too.

SEE SOURCE RESOURCE

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