LCBO Food & Drink Autumn 2018

1 For the roasted fennel, preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Trim the base and core of the fennel bulb. Slice thinly and transfer to a shal- low roasting pan. Drizzle the oil over top and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper, and roast, stirring occasionally, until the fennel is tender and beginning to brown, about 40 to 45 minutes. The fennel can be prepared a day ahead and refrigerated. 2 For the caramelized onions, peel and slice the onions thinly. Heat the oil and butter in a large frying pan over medium heat until siz- zling. Add the onions and cook without stir- ring just until the onions begin to take on colour on the bottom and around the edges of the pan, about 15 to 20 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-low and continue cooking, stirring occasionally until the onions are soft and reduced, another 15 to 20 minutes. Reduce to low and continue cooking and stirring until the onions are browned and caramelized. The whole process can take up to an hour. Stir in the balsamic vinegar and remove from heat. The onions can be prepared a day ahead and refrigerated. 3 Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C) and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 4 Spread 3 cups (750 mL) of the focaccia cubes on the prepared sheet and bake until dry and just taking on colour, 15 to 20 minutes. Reserve the remaining untoasted focaccia cubes for baking the strata the next day. 5 In a medium bowl, whisk together the milk, cream, eggs and salt. Strain through a fine- mesh sieve and set aside. Spread 1½ cups (375 mL) of the toasted focaccia cubes in the bottom of a deep 9½-inch (24-cm) pie dish. Top with half each of the fennel and onions. Top with ¼ cup (60 mL) of shredded Gru- yère. Repeat the layering with the remaining 1½ cups (375 mL) of toasted focaccia, the fen- nel, onions and cheese. Slowly pour the milk mixture overtop, allowing it to seep in as you are pouring. Cover the dish with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. 6 The next day, preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Scatter the fennel seeds overtop, fol- lowed by the reserved, untoasted focaccia cubes. Bake until the filling is set and slightly puffed up in the middle. If the bread cubes brown too quickly, cover the dish loosely with foil, and continue baking until set. Serve warm or at room temperature. Serves 10

WHAT TO SERVE Frentana Costa del Mulino Abruzzo Pecorino DOC LCBO 536573

$12.25 Pecorino is a native Italian variety with a fresh, food- friendly character. Citrus and herbal notes pair bril- liantly with the unique licorice-like flavour of fennel. Santa Margherita Brut Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 687582 $19.95 A light-bodied sparkler is an ideal choice for brunch. Zesty flavours and fine-textured carbonation refresh the palate and cut the creamy texture of the strata.

ROASTED FENNEL AND CARAMEL IZED ONION STRATA This is not a cake in the usual sense, but it could fall under the category of “pudding cake” or a savoury bread pudding. The secret lies not only in the flavourful vegetables, but in the choice of bread. Rather than using the more common baguette or “crusty white bread,” I’ve chosen a flavourful focaccia. One laden with garlic and herbs will have built-in flavour, so try to seek one out at your local artisanal bakery or at one of the better grocery stores. This is a perfect brunch item, for it requires assembly the day before baking and serving. While the strata will be equally flavourful the day after baking, the crispy focaccia cubes that go on top will lose their crunch. For me, that’s one of the best parts.

BEET AND DI LL TORTE There’s a very famous cake published in many circles known as Marian Burros’s Plum Torte. It’s a simple butter cake topped with plums and cinnamon sugar and everyone seems to love it. You’ll find our own take on that recipe on p. 102. Here, that cake has been transformed and turned into something just a little bit sweet but mostly savoury. With next to no sugar, fresh beets and lots of chopped dill, the cake is equally as light as the original sweet version. Use both red and yellow beets for dramatic effect and, before serving, brush the beets with the balsamic glaze for shine and flavour. And that all-important dollop of sour cream? Well, it’s the icing on the cake.

ROASTED FENNEL 1 large fennel bulb 1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil ½ tsp (2 mL) salt Pepper

CARAMELIZED ONIONS 2 medium Vidalia onions 1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil 1 tbsp (15 mL) unsalted butter 1 tbsp (15 mL) balsamic vinegar

CAKE ½ cup (125 mL) unsalted butter, room temperature, plus extra for greasing pan 1 cup (250 mL) all-purpose flour, plus extra for pan 1 tsp (5 mL) baking powder ½ tsp (2 mL) salt 1 tbsp (15 mL) sugar 2 eggs, room temperature ⅓ cup (80 mL) finely chopped dill 5 to 6 medium beets, roasted, peeled and cut into eighths

STRATA MIXTURE 5 cups (1.25 L) focaccia bread cubes, about ½ inch (1 cm) square, divided 1½ cups (375 mL) whole milk ½ cup (125 mL) whipping cream 4 eggs ¼ tsp (1 mL) salt ½ cup (125 mL) grated Gruyère cheese, divided 1 tsp (5 mL) fennel seeds

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146  FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2018