LCBO Food & Drink Autumn 2019

AUTUMN 2019 @LCBOFOODANDDRINK

The Autumn Issue

COMPLIMENTS OF

TA S T E S U N TA M E D

V Q AW i n e s o f O n t a r i o . c a

New views. New t s.

No ap i .

re e th e that eak t rul . There are those that defy convention,

and unapologetically forge their own path.

y e t v i i shaping the next generation of Ontario VQA wine. They are on the leading edge of the cool-climate wine scene,

crafting internationally-acclaimed wines from vineyards in our own backyard.

c e a t dicati and i that goes into every bottle of VQA wine.

This fall,

Raise a glass and toast local with VQA wines – made only with 100% Ontario-grown grapes.

ju ing

d

Ontario’s VQA wine adventure

… so pull up a chair.

Trius Red VQA LCBO 303800, 750 mL, $24.95 Full-bodied & Smooth (XD – 4 g/L) This Bordeaux-inspired red blend offers luscious berry and cocoa flavours —

Trius Sauvignon Blanc VQA LCBO 221804, 750 mL, $15.95 Light & Crisp (XD – 5 g/L) Known as one of Niag- ara’s finest Sauvignon Blancs, this stunner boasts classic grapefruit and gooseberry flavours.

Trius Brut VQA LCBO 284539, 750 mL, $29.95 Medium-bodied & Flavourful (D – 10 g/L) Toast local gems with this bubbly. Crafted in the tradi- tional method, it has toasted brioche flavours with notes of apple and honey.

it’s truly a local icon. A Vintages Essential*

Featured products are available at select LCBO stores. Prices subject to change without notice. *Vintages Essentials Collection is always available at many LCBO locations. Visit lcbo.com/vintages-essentials

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ADVERTISING FEATURE CHEERS TO 40 YEARS OF TRIUS! After four decades of award-winning winemaking in the Niagara region, Trius Winery — home to Canada’s largest underground sparkling wine cellar — is celebrating its rich heritage and sparkling future Trius Winery is a true pioneer in Ontario winemaking, harvesting premium grapes grown in the four appellations of Niagara-on-the-Lake and crafting fine wines since the local industry was in its infancy. Over the past 20 years, the winery has built a reputation locally and abroad for its award-winning Sauvignon Blanc, Red and Brut VQA wines, which are artfully crafted by Australian-born winemaker Craig McDonald and showcase the rich terroir of the region. Thanks to its vintage tastings, its beautiful setting and the show-stopping culinary experiences at the Trius Winery Restaurant, the estate has become a beloved destination for wine lovers far and wide. But while history and tradition run deep at Trius Winery, so does an ongoing desire for innovation. This summer, the winery unveiled a first-of-its-kind tour — an immersive, five-stop experience complete with world-class wines, culinary treats and stunning art installations just begging to be Instagrammed. Guests can enjoy a glass of rosé on a hot-pink vineyard lookout adorned with ivy and wisteria. They’re also invited to take in Canada’s largest underground sparkling wine cellar along with a glass of bubbles, the perfect way to toast beautiful vintages past and to come.

“Over the years, the team at Trius Winery has remained true to its focus of creating memorable, pleasurable experiences — whether you’re taking in the immersive Trius Tour, indulging in their many culinary delights or simply enjoying a beautifully balanced glass of wine at home.” — Aaron Pothier, LCBO & Vintages Ontario Wines Buyer

The Sparkling House, part of The Trius Tour – Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario

This year, Trius celebrates forty years of firsts. Our winery has changed over the

years. Our unquenchable thirst for innovation and fun has not. Taste it in Trius Red,

Canada’s first wine to win Best Red Wine in the World at London’s International

Wine and Spirits Competition in 1995. Feel it as you descend into our sparkling

cellar, the oldest and largest in the country.

Join us in Niagara-on-the-Lake as we create even more milestones and

moments that surprise and delight, like #TheTriusTour, an all-new

immersive winery experience.

triuswines.com

Yes, this is a mattress ad A quality sleep promotes creative inspiration for turning simple ingredients into beautifully crafted dishes. Wake up what’s possible. Beautyrest.ca Wake up your inner chef

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Features

80 alfresco family FEASTing By Christopher St. Onge A great Ontario spin on a classic Italian feast, featuring standout local ingredients served alongside our province’s own beer, wine and spirits. 88 ONTARIO’S OWN BACO NOIR By Chris Johns Baco Noir thrives in Ontario and is worthy of your attention—awesome as a Thanksgiving wine and so much more! 94 CINNAMON By Eric Vellend & Joanne Yolles A versatile flavour, cinnamon struts its stuff in standout sweet and savoury dishes that’ll make your taste buds happy. 100 TAKING ROOT By Signe Langford Root veggies take a star turn with inventive recipes including a colourful scalloped dish, a slow‑cooker option, fantastic stuffed beets and more.

106 FRUITFUL INFUSIONS

106 FRUITFUL INFUSIONS By Julia Aitken

Delicious alchemy happens when fresh fruit and spirits mingle, creating fragrant seasonal cocktails plus fruit-with-a-kick to serve in many tasty ways.

ON THE COVER Cinnamon and Lemon Tart, recipe on page 135. Photography by Darren Kemper.

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FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2019

TABLE OF CONTENTS

127 SILVER LININGS

Departments

FOOD 45 IN SEASON NOW GLOBAL EGGPLANT By Amy Rosen

121 101 THE ULTIMATE APPLE PIE By Jennifer MacKenzie The secrets to making the perfect apple pie are out! Our detailed step-by-step guide with tried-and-true tips— and two incredible toppings— make perfection doable.

Exotic takes that make good use of local eggplant, showing why this veg is a global phenom. 53 THE BASICS THANKSGIVING MADE EASY By Brenda Morrison We’ve rounded up the best advice, tips, suggestions (including wines to serve) and a handy checklist, so you can be the most chill Thanksgiving host ever.

127 QUICK & EASY SILVER LININGS By Amy Rosen

Toss these easy foil packet suppers into the oven and— whether vegetarian, seafood or meat—dinner is done.

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DRINK 63 LOCAL PRIDE WHISKIES OF WINDSOR By Charlene Rooke

113 SEASONAL FLAVOURS FALLING FOR BEER By Crystal & Tara Luxmore

With its storied Prohibition-era history, Windsor is one of Ontario’s best-kept secrets—home to cutting-edge whisky distillers and plenty more.

Fall flavours—pumpkin spice, for one—and beer are now best friends; brewers are adding flavours to great effect, with something for any occasion.

73 IN THE KITCHEN #WINE WEDNESDAY By Victoria Walsh

Amp up #WineWednesday now that it’s harvest time: classic Ontario varietals add depth of flavour to four seasonal recipes.

In every issue

148 easy entertaining PULL IT TOGETHER! By Christopher St. Onge Decided to have the gang over at the last minute? Assemble a few ingredients alongside just the right bottle and you’re ready to host!

12 EDITOR’S NOTES 19 INSIDE SCOOP The latest bits, bites and sips to keep you in the know. 147 RECIPE INDEX

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AUTUMN 2019 FOOD & DRINK

Neat.

Spirit of York uses only the finest,

Canadian Rye Grain, and the World’s purest

water, from Springwater, Ontario.

Locally crafted, small batch distilling allows

us to retain all the rich, natural flavour

of our ingredients, for a remarkably smooth,

and distinctive tasting Vodka.

Enjoy neat, or in your favourite Cocktail.

Coming next issue Available November 13

Holiday Hues Celebrate the season with festively coloured recipes Baking Challenge Visually stunning baked goods take it to the next level Find Your Match How to simplify pairing wines with your turkey dinner Simple Soups Weekday meals have never had it so quick and easy

Many of the products featured in this issue are available to purchase online at lcbo.com.

VP Marketing & Customer Intelligence Kerri Dawson Editor Jody Dunn Art Directors Karen Lim Cathy Cicchini Content Editor Charlene Rooke Publication Coordinators Leslie Bolter Margot Blais Graphic Designers Wincy Law Dominique Patafio Pat Turbach Samia Akhtar Production Coordinator Judy Haverkort Publication Assistant Piper MacFadyen Production Assistant Everton Smith

Food Stylists Michael Elliott Eshun Mott Christopher St. Onge Prop Stylists Christine Hanlon Catherine MacFadyen Andrea McCrindle

For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about LCBO products and policy please contact helloLCBO online at hellolcbo.com, or call toll-free 800•668•5226 or 416•365•5900. TTY Only: 416•864•6898 or 800•361•3291. All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the LCBO’s advertising agreement. Food & Drink is published five times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Volume 27, Number 1. Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 percent post‑consumer fibre. Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs.

Lara McGraw Shelly Shnier Contributors Julia Aitken, Dré Dee, Chris Johns, Anna Kohn, Signe Langford, Crystal Luxmore, Tara Luxmore, Jennifer MacKenzie, Brenda Morrison, Amy Rosen, Marc Smith, Christopher St. Onge, Eric Vellend, Victoria Walsh, Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic, Joanne Yolles Publisher Wayne Leek Advertising Sales Kirby Miller, Beaches Media Services, kirby@beachesmediaservices.com

Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Drink , 55 Lake Shore Boulevard East, Toronto, ON, M5E 1A4 ISSN 1195-5988

Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all LCBO stores. Prices are subject to change without notice. Cette publication est également disponible en français.

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AUTUMN 2019 FOOD & DRINK

NEW

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With its new look, Raven Conspiracy casts an even more enchanting spell. Stir your senses with the same great tasting smooth red and revamped white blend.

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EDITOR’S NOTES

Autumn in Ontario is a feast for the senses.

While it’s pretty undeniable that visually fall is the most spectacular of all four seasons, we here at Food & Drink are, of course, focusing on the amazing tastes of the season. We start with a roundup of some of this province’s must-try baked goods on page 26. If you are out for a drive to enjoy the fall colours, planning a pit stop at any of these spots is so worth the detour—and the calories! On the drinks side of things, we shine a spotlight on wines that grow exceptionally well here in Ontario. The first, you may have never heard of—check out “Orange is the NewWhite” on page 20 so that you can be in the know—and the second, Baco Noir, you probably know, but if you haven’t tried it we lay out plenty of good reasons why you should, starting on page 88. Beyond wine, on page 63 we venture down to Windsor, Ont., to check out the wonderful whiskies being made there—truly amazing and innovative stuff—plus things to see and do in and around the area, all great reasons to plan a road trip exploring the fall colours in southwestern Ontario. Thanksgiving is just around the corner, no doubt a time of sensory overload, but we’ve tried to ease the angst of preparation with our top tricks, tips and advice, begin- ning on page 53. Covering everything from shopping to decorating to cooking the bird, this handy resource has your back if you’re hosting this year. Along with those tips we offer up a couple of recipe ideas for the vegetarian and gluten-free guests who might be at your table (pages 28 and 30) and a step- by-step guide to making the ultimate apple

pie with two decadent toppings to please every palate (page 121). But if you’re just not feeling hosting a traditional meal, “Alfresco Family Feasting” on page 82 presents an Italian-style menu with a to-die-for lasagna at the heart of it that is a nice change-up for the occasion. For Halloween, you’ll find a cocktail perfectly suited to the occasion on page 30— black vodka anyone? And, if you’re celebrat- ing Oktoberfest (or are just a fan of sausage), we’ve got two delicious dinner options—one for the slow cooker, on page 104, and another sheet-pan recipe that comes together in minutes, on page 148. With eggplant and root vegetables, spirit-infused fruit and uniquely flavoured fall beers, there’s so much more in this issue that puts the best of the season on full display. We hope you enjoy—and have a wonderful fall!

PORTRAIT BY JAMES TSE

STREAMING THIS FALL

We’re exploring hidden gems from all over Ontario. Join us as we make stops to meet local makers and share food, drinks and stories you’ll love. Check out lcbo.com/foodanddrink for details.

@lcbofoodanddrink lcbofoodanddrink

LCBO

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AUTUMN 2019 FOOD & DRINK

Over 7,500 unique products to explore LCBO.COM DISCOVER A WORLD OF SELECTION AT

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It’s easy to shop for new releases, great offers on everyday staples, online exclusives, limited-edition finds and more!

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Eden Valley fruit brings additional lift to this lithe, textured Shiraz. Black cherry and pepper lead in awine that’s perfect for fall-off- the-bone ribs. THORN-CLARKE SANDPIPER SHIRAZ 2017 Barossa, South Australia 10436 (XD) 750 mL $17.00 2 Full-bodied & Smooth 94 points ( winecompanion.com.au ) Vines planted in a complex mix of soils on hillside and terraced sites give superb character to the dynamic Grenache-based reds of Vinsobres. Try this one with Persian-spiced lamb shanks. COURTOIS LA GRANGE VINSOBRES 2015

(Domaine Jaume) AC, Rhône, France 526632 (XD) 750 mL $17.00 2 Full-bodied & Smooth 91 points ( winespectator.com )

$17 SOLUTION. AVAILABLE IN STORES AND ONLINE AUGUST 31, 2019. Featured products may not be available in all Vintages locations. Visit lcbo.com/vintages for availability and store locations. Prices subject to change.

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Inside scoop The latest bits, bites and sips to keep you in the know.

20 Orange is the New White 22 Drink Ontario 22 Quiet Diet 24 Waste Not, Want Not 26 9 Local Autumnal Baked Treats 28 Queen Bean of orange wine. We also hear from a pastry chef—on making the most of vanilla beans—and a local forager on the magic of chaga mushrooms, amongst other things… Fall never tasted so good. 28 ’Shroom Service 28 Vegetarian Main for Thanksgiving 30 Spooky Spirit 30 Razor’s Edge 30 Gluten-Free Stuffing for Thanksgiving 32 Back to School 36 Ontario Makers: As the growing season reaches its peak, we celebrate with the best vegetable slicers, handy Thanksgiving tips and a big glass

BY eric vellend | PHOTOGRAPHY by rob fiocca & vince noguchi

Left Field Brewery

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FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2019

INSIDE SCOOP

Q&A Why do you think this ancient style of wine in vogue again?

Watch for the online exclusive release of orange wines at lcbo.com on October 12th.

“It offers nuances that no other wine has, so you can explore fresh, herbal and citrus plus spicy and earthy characteristics that we don’t usually associate with white wines.” What regions are known for orange wine? “Historically orange wines are associated with Georgia, but the modern revival came from Italy’s Collio region and Slovenia. Now orange wines are being made anywhere winemakers want to explore their craft in different ways.” What inspired you to make it at Southbrook? “I wanted to take our terroir a step further by making a completely natural wine. Our orange Vidal reaches deep into the structure of a grape that everyone thought they knew as an icewine grape. The winemaking method allows me to use no additives at all, while creating a complex wine that can age and pairs with a wide range of foods and lifestyles.” “From grilled and smoky foods to spicy dishes; it’s hard to find a bad match.” How has it been received by the general population? “It’s the most requested wine in our tasting room. We literally have people come through the door asking: “Is this where I can taste orange wine?” What food does it go well with?

Orange wine is a white wine that’s made like a red—i.e. the pressed grapes are left in contact with the skins to extract flavour, colour and tannins. A Canadian pioneer in this style, Ann Sperling, director of winemaking and viticulture at Southbrook Vineyards (southbrook.com) in Niagara-on-the-Lake, talks about why this trendy juice should be in your fridge. Orange is the newwhite

Ann Sperling, Southbrook Vineyards

PORTRAIT OF ANN SPERLING: STEVEN ELPHICK

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AUTUMN 2019 FOOD & DRINK

r e t h i n k wh i s k y f r om s c ot l a n d

# un l e a r n s c ot c h

GLENFIDDICH.CA | SKILFULLY CRAFTED. ENJOY RESPONSIBLY. Glenfiddich ® Single Malt Scotch Whisky is a registered trademark of William Grant & Sons Ltd

INSIDE SCOOP

Drink Ontario Nick Kennedy, co-owner of Toronto’s Civil Liberties (civillibertiesbar.com)—ranked number 3 on Canada’s 50 Best Bars 2019—talks about which made-in-Ontario products he likes for his fall drinks.

Lot No. 40 Single Copper Pot Still Whisky LCBO 382861, 750 mL, $39.95 “In the fall, everyone wants whisky again. Lot 40 is a very dry rye while maintaining my favourite caramel notes of Canadian whisky. I’ll use it in a Whisky Sour with maple syrup.” Coster’s Prescription Coffee & A Smoke Bitters 2 oz, $18.95 at cocktailemporium.com “The flavour is dry coffee with a light smoke. It’s great in booze- forward drinks with spirits that can use some additional depth.” Sugarbush Hill Maple Syrup Available only at Sugarbush Hill Maple Farm (sugarbushhill.com) “It’s an incredibly passionate op- eration with a real eye on quality and tradition. They’re also real welcoming to tourists. Use it to sweeten Old Fashioneds and whole egg Flips.” Chanterelle Mushrooms Kennedy will infuse chanterelles with vodka—1 ⁄ oz (45 g) for every 1 cup (250 mL)—for one week. “It’s incredibly earthy with a little umami. I’ll make a wet Martini with it and garnish with an olive.”

Quiet diet Curious about the new pegan diet? We’ve enlisted Lianne Phillipson, a registered nutritionist and author of the recently published Sprout Right Family Food , to explain the ins and outs of this unique way of eating.

What are the basics of the pegan diet? “The pegan diet is a combination of the paleo diet and veganism. While that sounds like opposite diets colliding, it is. It’s 75 percent fruits and vegetables with a small side of meat, fish,

make it difficult to follow long term.”

eggs, some nuts and seeds, olive oil, avocado and infrequent beans and grains.” What are the pros of this diet? “The focus of eating real, whole foods that don’t raise blood sugar combats the incredible rise of type-2 diabetes and

could help millions. It supports detoxification and anti-inflam- matory principals, too.”

Any other sources? “Dr. Mark Hyman is behind combining the paleo and vegan diet, so it’s best to get info directly from him (drhyman.com).”

What are some of the drawbacks?

“The restrictiveness could feel like a diet of deprivation and

PORTRAIT OF LIANNE PHILIPSON: DANN TARDIS; FOOD IMAGE BY ISTOCK.COM/DULEZIDAR

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AUTUMN 2019 FOOD & DRINK

Green Woods Inn Peach & ginger crêpes with peameal ham, ginger horseradish and ginger peach coulis with a side of strawberries, kiwi, brûléed banana, and maple granola. greenwoods-inn.ca

Rosemount Inn + Spa

Vanilla custard french toast with homemade berry compote. rosemountinn.com

These historic Kingston inns are more than just a place to hang your hat while in town. Enjoy history, elegance, romance—and of course, heavenly breakfasts in a league of their own. BREAKFAST INN BED

The Secret Garden Inn Baked stu ed french toast with blueberry orange sauce, fresh fruit parfait with plain greek yoghurt, peameal bacon, fresh squeezed juice and co ee or tea. thesecretgardeninn.com

Frontenac Club

Eggs Frontenac — poached eggs on a toasted sourdough with smoked salmon, asparagus and bearnaise sauce. frontenacclub.com

INSIDE SCOOP Wondering what to do about food waste? We’ve got seven easy and delicious ways to pitch in by not pitching it out! Waste Not,Want Not

Feta water makes a great brine, too!

By Signe Langford

Pickle Juice Just because the pickles are gone, doesn’t mean the juice is done! Collect the juice into one big jar in the fridge, then heat and pour over shelled, hardboiled eggs for quick pickled eggs. Or use it a drop a time to add zing to vinaigrettes and egg- , tuna- or salmon- salad sandwiches; it also makes a great brine for meat or poultry. Shrimp and Lobster Shells Roasted and finely ground (powdered in a spice or coffee mill), it’s the special ingredient for true creamy, classic seafood bisque. Or cover whole shells with water, add herbs and spices, simmer for 30 minutes, and strain for a versatile stock. Watermelon Rind For a gorgeous and surprising addition to a cheese board, the hard, green rind can be diced, then pickled into a sweet, tangy, crunchy treat. Wash well, remove all pink flesh, pour hot pickle brine over the cubes, refrigerate, then wait a couple of weeks. Citrus Peels Lemon, lime, grapefruit, orange… so much flavour lies trapped in those pretty skins. Scrape away the bitter white pith, cut into strips, and boil in sugar water for candied citrus peel. Or for fish-finishing citrus salt, leave peels to dry in a jar of sea salt, then grind. Ditto for white sugar. Add peels to cider vinegar for flavoured cooking vinegar, or to white vinegar for scented cleaning vinegar.

Parmesan Rind Nonna knew that rock-hard Parmesan rind was too good to toss; instead, it was dropped whole into a simmering pot of soup, tomato sauce or ragu, infusing the dish with its rich, unmistakeable umami. The rind would be discarded only after it had given everything it had to give.

The number of perfectly tasty tidbits that end up in the trash is a relatively new phenomenon. In times past, our ancestors knew just what to do with all the off-cuts and leftover bits; they ate nose to tail and root to tip before it was hip—and all the rest went out back to the hens! Food waste isn’t just a problem for the environment, it also cuts into the budget. It’s not surprising that many of us are at a loss for what to do with leftovers and off-cuts; what is surprising is the num- ber of creative and tasty ways to divert perfectly good food before it hits the bin.

That last inch of wine Got a drop or two of wine left in the bottle but can’t drink another sip? If it seems like too little to save, start a collection in the freezer, pouring the dregs into a freezer bag or jar. Go ahead and mix labels—just make sure there’s one for red and one for white— and keep on adding wine until you can use it to braise some ribs, make a stew, or cook anything that calls for wine.

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AUTUMN 2019 FOOD & DRINK

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INSIDE SCOOP

Kelly’s Gluten-Free Pumpkin Caramel Cupcake, Burlington Biting into one of these cupcakes from Kelly’s Bake Shoppe in Burlington is a deliciously virtuous experience thanks to their recipe and their pedigree; moist, with the ideal gooey caramel centre and a hint of spice, they are gluten-free and nearly guilt-free! kellysxo.com

9 Local Autumnal Baked Treats Crisp apples, sweet blueberries and savoury pumpkin are among the harvest flavours we’re excited about this autumn. Here’s a roundup of seasonal treats from all over Ontario to inspire your next fall‑colours road trip.

By Marc Smith | photography by vince noguchi

Voyageurs’ Blueberry Crisp, Sault Ste. Marie

Served warm and topped with a scoop of ice cream, the berry-rich crisp at The Voyageurs’ Lodge & Cookhouse north of Sault Ste. Marie helps keep the autumn chill from your bones. Every spoonful serves up equal parts ooey-gooey baked blueberries with crunchy oats and nuts plus a hint of cinnamon. voyageurslodge.com

STAFF PICK Urban Parisian Brown Butter Chocolate ToffeeCookie, Port Dover

Kaiserhaus Bistro Apple Strudel, Port Dalhousie For a true taste of eastern Europe in Ontario, try the strudel at this authentic bistro in Port Dalhousie. Firm Granny Smith apples, sugar and cinnamon are cooked and then rolled in paper-thin pastry dough dusted with raw sugar. Served with a dollop of whipped cream, this crispy, flaky treat is light but decadent. kaiserhaus.ca

This treat from Port Dover ele­ vates the everyday chocolate cookie by using brown butter and adding chunks of toffee to the mix. Chocolatey and sweet, with golden toffee notes, this hand-held goodie is one you won’t want to share. urbanparisian.com

SUZY Q’S DOUGHNUTS BY WILL CAREY; BLUEBERRY CRISP AND PUMPKIN PIE ILLUSTRATIONS BY EMILIE SIMPSON

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INSIDE SCOOP

Suzy Q’s Maple Bacon Doughnut, Ottawa

Doo Doo’s Butter Tarts, Peterborough The award-winning butter tarts from this bakery in Peterborough fly off the shelves. Tender, flaky pastry that is hand-rolled and hand-pressed into tart tins makes the perfect vessel to hold the runny, buttery, caramel filling. With or without raisins, this treat is quintessentially Canadian. doodoos.ca

Lightning struck when Suzy Q’s in Ottawa decided to put crispy bacon on top of its popular maple doughnut. Sweet and salty, it’s the number-one seller, and for good reason—the two flavours create a sublime alchemy. Made fresh every day, these dough- nuts are road-trip worthy. suzyq.ca

The Bakery Apple Fritters, Gravenhurst

Muskoka fall weekends in Gravenhurst begin with a stop at The Bakery for apple fritters. Chopped apples mixed in a lightly sweet batter, deep-fried to perfec- tion and then coated with a sugar glaze make this the ideal treat to grab with a morning coffee. thebakeryingravenhurst.ca

Carla’s Pumpkin Spice Cookie Sandwiches, Toronto Specializing in handmade, home-delivered treats made with farm-fresh Ontario products, Carla’s Cookie Box puts the ultimate tastes of fall in a unique format. With each bite, a little of the Swiss meringue buttercream filling oozes out between the cookie layers. Eat it quick: this can get messy in the

THANKSGIVING PICK Pumpkin Pie from

St. Jacobs Market, St. Jacobs Before the pumpkin-spice-everything craze, there was pumpkin pie. The classic spice profile of warm cinnamon, ginger, allspice and nutmeg turn a humble squash into the quintessential fall dessert. The St. Jacobs Market has not one, but four bakery vendors serving up slices and whole pies that look and taste homemade enough to proudly serve for Thanksgiving. stjacobsmarket.com

best possible way! carlacookiebox.com

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FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2019

INSIDE SCOOP

Queen Bean Stephanie Duong, co-owner of Toronto’s Roselle Desserts (roselleto.com), dishes on what types of vanilla she uses at her celebrated patisserie and throws in a few tips on getting the most out of the pricey pods.

’Shroom service

Used to make medicinal tea and extract, chaga mush- rooms have many purported health benefits. We talked to Blair Kovacs of Annanda Chaga (annandachaga.com), based in Sault Ste. Marie, to learn more about this fabulous fungus. What exactly is a chaga mushroom? “Chaga is a tree rot fungus with a black, burnt-like coating that grows mostly on birch trees north of the 40th parallel.” Howdo you harvest it? “It must be harvested cleanly leaving a few inches behind so that the wood remains sealed. Conks smaller than a grapefruit should be left behind so they can continue to grow.” What is the history of chaga in Canada? “It has been used for centuries by indigenous Obijway and Chipewyan cultures in ceremonies and rituals for physical, emotional and spiritual healing.” What does chaga tea taste like? “Chaga from birch trees surprisingly does not taste like mushroom at all: it’s mild and earthy with notes of sweet birch and maple syrup.”

Nielsen-Massey Vanilla Bean Paste

Whole Bourbon Vanilla Beans “Harvested from Bourbon Island (now called Reunion Island) in Madagascar, these beans have a sweet, creamy and deeply rich flavour. They are wonderful in custards and creams, and they hold their flavour well in baked goods. We also use them in our much-loved cannelés.” PC Black Label Madagascar Vanilla Beans, two for $9.99, loblaws.ca

Homemade Vanilla Extract andPowder “Given the outrageous price of vanilla, we give spent beans a second life in homemade extract and powder. There is so much flavour left! For the extract, place some pods in a jar with vodka. Seal and leave in a cool, dry place for a few weeks. For the powder, dry them out then pulverize into a powder in a spice grinder. Add
 a few teaspoons to cookie dough.”

“Vanilla paste is a happy med­ ium between using whole beans and extract. We love the paste from Nielsen-Massey, which is thick and thoroughly speckled with distinctive seeds. We use it to make poaching liquid for late summer stone fruit or apples

and pears.” 4 oz, $30.95, vanillafoodcompany.ca

What to serve a vegetarian at Thanksgiving

Catering to vegetarians at Thanksgiving dinner is far less intimidating than you might think. It’s fall, after all, and there are a number of seasonal vegetarian mains that can easily double as a hearty side dish for turkey. Try our Stuffed Acorn Squash (recipe at foodanddrink.ca), sweet edible bowls filled with an autumnal melange of dried fruit, nuts and multi-grain bread. Topped with a gooey layer of cheddar, it’s a winner for everyone.

PORTRAIT OF STEPHANIE DUONG: MATTHEW MACHANDA: CHAGA PHOTO BY ISTOCK.COM/NORDICMOONLIGHT

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AUTUMN 2019 FOOD & DRINK

A SOPHI ST I CAT ED DE S IGN. AND THE SPACE TO ENJOY I T. Three rows. Seven passengers. Countless memories. That’s what awaits inside the incredibly spacious 2019 Mazda CX-9. Every detail of the CX-9 Signature interior, from the brushed metal touches to the Nappa leather finishing, was crafted with care to enhance the comfort of each passenger on board.

2019 MAZDA CX-9 BEST LARGE UTILITY VEHICLE IN CANADA FOR 2019

INSIDE SCOOP

Spooky Spirit If you’re looking to get into the spirit with some spooky libations, check out this unique vodka that’s already dressed for Halloween. Distilled in St. John’s, Nfld., Hounds Black Vodka ( LCBO 468736, $35.95) gets its inky colour from an infusion of fulvic minerals and humic acid. And while that may sound like a witch’s brew, it’s clean, smooth and citrusy and can lend its dramatic hue to any vodka-based drink, from a Martini to a Cape Codder. Try this one‑of‑a‑kind spirit in our Haunted Screwdriver (recipe on page 144).

For people who don’t eat gluten—whether it’s by choice or for medical reasons—a giant bowl of fragrant stuffing can cause acute Thanksgiving envy. Fortunately stuffing doesn’t have to be made from bread. With a two-rice base, moist, fluffy Wild Rice and Cranberry Stuffing (recipe at foodanddrink.ca) has the classic flavours of onion, celery and herbs without any gluten. What to serve a gluten-free guest at Thanksgiving

Razor’s Edge It’s fall and there are potatoes to slice for gratins, cabbages to shred for sauerkraut and root veg to julienne for autumnal slaws. Time to break out the mandoline!

If you don’t own one, Starfrit All-In-One Mandoline ($32.99, canadiantire.ca) is a good starting point. It offers four thicknesses plus a built‑in julienne blade and grater. The food pusher is mounted on rails, which prevents slipping and provides a barrier between your hand and the sharp blade.

For more advanced slicing, the OXO Chef’s Mandoline Slicer 2.0 ($119.99, cookstore.ca) is an excellent option. It can cut 17 different thicknesses and has easy-to-change blades for julienne, french fry, crinkle and waffle cuts. The spring-loaded food holder has a wide rim to keep your fingers safe and it clips onto the mandoline for easy storage.

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So youwant to be awinemaker?

There was a time when Canadian winemakers learned on the land and in the winery or were imported from other regions. Today, increasingly, they’re homegrown in Ontario colleges, universities and communities. Here are some of the ripest programs for picking. Professional viticulture and viniculture A grape-growing and winemaking education starts at Niagara College’s Canadian Food and Wine Institute or Brock University’s Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute (including some online courses). The University of Guelph’s agriculture programs have grape-focused courses, too. Pro winemakers can complete a Sustainable Winemaking Ontario certification through the Grape Growers of Ontario and Ontario Craft Wineries. Somm school To select, pair and pour wine with pro finesse, choose from online and Ontario-based courses from the International Sommelier Guild, the Society of Wine Educators (SWE) and the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET). Colleges like Humber, Seneca, Conestoga and George Brown, plus Le Cordon Bleu Ottawa, offer some sharp wine (and beer!) tasting and pairing classes. Wine appreciation If understanding enough about local wine to drink it well is your endgame, Ontario Craft Wineries Wine Appellations of Ontario introduces making, tasting and pairing our vintages: it’s $35 for a course book and study guide, with an optional exam and Certificate of Merit for high achievers (ontariocraftwineries.ca/resources).

Back to school Take your interest in wine, beer or spirits to the next level with expert-level courses and credentials across the province that teach Ontarians how to professionally make (and appreciate) beverage alcohol.

BY Charlene Rooke

PHOTO BY MATT AUBIN

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So you want to be a brewer? There’s making beer at home from a kit, and there’s commercial-quality beer that others clamour to taste. Here’s how to get the edge in making (or just tasting) the best.

Beyond bartending, spirits aficionados have new opportunities to learn how to make, serve and appreciate their favourite drinks. Distilled wisdom Niagara College started Canada’s first artisan distilling graduate certificate program and teaching distillery, So you want to be a spirits expert? Behind the bottle Renowned for its wine education, the WSET offers a new spirits education curriculum available through various Ontario course providers, including Algonquin College and Brock University online. Other pro-coveted credentials include the SWE’s Certified Specialist of Spirits and Pernod-Ricard’s BarSmarts program, both with online self- study options. Mix it up Dip into Toronto Cocktail Week (October 15 to 20, 2019) seminars, or take a whisky cocktail class at Wayne Gretzky Estates Winery & Distillery. Ontario’s Smart Serve course (smartserve.ca) will have you pouring like a socially responsible pro. welcoming its first 16 students last fall.

BUDDING BREWERS Brewmasters and brewery workers get schooled at Niagara College’s teaching brewery program. Durham College’s Centre for Food offers professional courses on topics like evaluating beer’s smells and flavours throughout production, and on setting up a brewing lab. Its Centre for Craft Brewing Innovation at the Whitby campus provides production support and innovation to existing craft breweries. The Ontario Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs has sharp advice on “Starting a Craft Brewery in Ontario” and more (ontario.ca/foodbusiness).

CICERONE SMARTS If you aspire to be the beer equiv- alent of a sommelier, the Cicerone Certification Program is for you. The credential and its exam are notoriously rigorous: start with the Beer Savvy online course, and hone your skills with Ontario-based experts like the Beer Sisters, who offer BeerSavvy Bootcamps. To pair and appreciate beer like a pro, look for Prud’homme Beer Certification (named for Canada’s first licensed brewer) courses online or across Ontario.

Craft breweries Watch for beer appreciation classes at breweries including Etobicoke’s Black Oak Brewing and Nickel Brook Brewing in Burlington.

As of 2015, the Ontario craft beer industry directly employed over 1,500 people and created more than 6,000 indirect jobs.

– STARTING A CRAFT BREWERY IN ONTARIO

PHOTO BY MATT AUBIN

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Europe. Quality. Wine.

OUR VESSEL IS IN TOWN! (& WE BRING NEWS) Are you passionate or simply curious about European Quality Wine? The Native Grape Odyssey Walk Around Tasting is the place to be! Our educational project will be held in Toronto, our crew carry news of Europe’s most ancient treasures: PDO and PGI wines. See you on September 19th at 3 pm, at Peter Pan Bistro - 373 Queen St W, Toronto.

It’s quality wine. It’s European. It’s free.

Discover more on nativegrapeodyssey.com or talk to us at info@nativegrapeodyssey.com

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ontario makers

Left Field Brewery

The Toronto brewery that could. How Left Field Brewery went from the little leagues to being one of the biggest hitters within the Ontario craft beer scene.

By Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic

The story of Mandie and Mark Murphy is the dream of aspiring craft brewers everywhere. Quit your day job, open a brewery and become a smashing success. It sounds easy enough, but it hardly was. It was a combination of hard work, long hours, complementary skill sets and delicious beer that made Left Field the beloved brewery it is today. Add to that a super-fun branding strategy inspired by Mark’s fanatical love of baseball and Mandie’s instinctive marketing abilities and the brewery was bound to hit it out of the park.    Left Field began selling beer to pubs in 2013. Without their own brewing equip- ment, the Murphys relied on Grand River Brewing in Cambridge, Ont., to produce their first beer, an Oatmeal Brown Ale named Eephus (available through

the brewery only), named after a rarely used, off- speed baseball pitch. That flavourful beer put Left Field on the craft beer map and the brewery quickly began offering additional styles that were brewed by Barley Days Brewery in Picton, Ont. For two years the Murphys would spend hours travers- ing Highway 401, dropping off full kegs, picking up empty ones and overseeing production days at the two breweries. They were in need of a place of their own and after a long and focussed search they landed on their brewery’s new home by happenstance. Five years ago they were out walking their dog, Spice, and came across an empty industrial space in the heart of the residential Leslieville neighbourhood in Toronto, something of a rarity. They knew it was right and snapped it up.

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Community When the couple set out to create the brewery, they knew they wanted more than just a place to brew beer. They wanted a space where people could come together in a fun and welcoming environment. They initiate lots of great events in the brewery, such as a weekly euchre night, yoga classes and one-off workshops on things like flower arranging and needleworking. They regularly host pop-ups by small food vendors, which gives their customers an ever-changing variety of delicious food to nibble on. And avid fans don’t just walk to the brewery, they run—as in the Toronto running group, RunTOBeer (runtobeer.ca). This group makes craft breweries their running-day destination, and Left Field is at the top of their list for number of visits.

Innovation One of the things Left Field has become known for is its innovation, and it shows in their beer. It’s often ahead of the curve in industry trends, using newer hop varieties such as Mandarina Bavaria or Huell Melon and new “super end” cans that use less aluminum and allow the drinker to remove the entire lid, thus turning it into something reminiscent of a glass. To keep things fresh and exciting, Left Field also has a cycle of seasonal LCBO releases that rotate between the two styles it has become known for, IPAs and Sours, letting the brewery showcase its diversity and creativity.

IPAs Two IPA regulars at the LCBO are Greenwood IPA ( LCBO 645416, 355 mL, $3.75)—which offers loads of citrus, peach and pineapple—and the hazy, New England-style Laser Show Double IPA ( LCBO 645424, 355 mL, $4.50), a juice bomb of bold tropical flavours and plenty of hopping for balance.     The brewery’s most recent LCBO release is its Big Train Zero IBU IPA ( LCBO 12383, 355 mL, $3.75), an IPA that places front and centre Azacca and Mosaic hops’ bold ripe flavours of papaya, guava and orange. Wheat and oats add flavour and texture and haze. For food matching, try something full of aroma and flavour like our Vindaloo Chicken (recipe at foodanddrink.ca). The dish complements the beer’s tropical flavours, and the beer’s sweet malt body helps temper the vindaloo’s heat.

Sours The trend of sour beers is something Left Field has embraced wholeheartedly, even buying a new Brite tank to be used exclusively for sours, and two American oak foeders just for sour ale production. Mark has plans for sours that incorporate Ontario peaches, apricots, raspberries and cherries in its future lineup. Slow-fermenting, these beers can take months to be ready, but they’re worth the wait!     Meanwhile, you can find the brewery’s dry- hopped Black Currant Sour ( LCBO 10759, 355 mL, $3.95), part of its Squeeze Play series of kettle sours that use fruits and aromatics in interesting ways. And this winter Go-Ahead Raspberry & Hibiscus Gose ( LCBO 644351, 355 mL, $3.75) hits LCBO shelves. Full of ripe raspberry and tangy hibiscus, it has a hint of light saltiness, typical of a gose.

For more information about the brewery visit leftfieldbrewery.ca or head to 36 Wagstaff Drive, Toronto, Ont., for a visit and a beer.

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ADVERTISING FEATURE

CHEERS TO ONTARIO From casual to sophisticated, fun-loving to innovative new blends — wine from our own backyard has it all. Ontario’s cool climate and talented winemakers work together beautifully to produce world-class wines across the province. Ontario is renowned for coaxing celebration-worthy flavours from red varieties like Merlot, Baco Noir and the famously delicate Pinot Noir. From Chardonnay to Riesling, our white blends shine and have won international acclaim. Take the new blend from beloved Château des Charmes: Atelier. It’s crafted from three different grapes, including fruity Auxerrois. Wines from Pelee Island’s Lola are flying off the shelves right now; hurry and grab a few bottles of the brand’s crowd-pleasing new Merlot. Looking for something bold? Don’t let Serenity’s name fool you! This Baco Noir is spicy, perfectly dry and looks beautiful on the table. Magnotta, with its Venture Series, including a cherry-rich Pinot Noir, is all about giving back. Every bottle of this elegant red raises funds to support Lyme disease research at Guelph University. There are so many reasons to toast harvest season in Ontario. Start here.

Serenity Baco Noir VQA LCBO 688556, $16.95

Pelee Island Lola Merlot VQA LCBO 10486, $14.95 Savour notes of wild cherry, blackberry, chocolate and mild spice.

Magnotta Pinot Noir Venture Series VQA LCBO 698159, $14.95 Indulge in black cherry, strawberry, lavender and violet flavours.

Château des Charmes Atelier White VQA LCBO 688499, $14.95 A delightful blend with notes of lime, peach, pear and melon.

A bold red bursting with flavours of blackberry, spice and smoke.

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Whether you like fruity, light whites or bold, robust reds, with so many exciting new VQA wines from Ontario, it’s not only easy it’s a delight to shop local.” — Laura Ruffolo, LCBO Ontario Wines Buyer “

VQA with Dinner

Taste local and discover VQA wines made from100% Ontario grapes. Enjoy a fantastic selection available at your local LCBO, restaurants and wineries across Ontario. Celebrate this fall with Ontario restaurants that are featuring local VQA wine and local fare.

For participating restaurants please go to lcbo.com/restaurants

Share your experience at #OntarioForDinner #VQAwithDinner

SEPTEMBER 15–OCTOBER 12 TASTE LOCAL 2019

Local VQA wines and local fare are being offered by many restaurants across Ontario. Visit any one of these places to savour a truly memorable culinary experience. For more details, visit lcbo.com/restaurants

Bayfield Black Dog Pub 5 Main St. North, PO Box 2097 Bayfield, ON N0M1G0 Kingston The Kingston Brewing Co. Ltd. 34 Clarence Street Kingston ON, K7L 1W9 Mississauga Living Arts Centre 4141 Living Arts Drive Mississauga, ON L5B 4B8 Niagara Falls Buchanans Steak Seafood (DoubleTree Resort) 6039 FallsviewBoulevard Niagara Falls, ON L2G 3V6 Four Brothers Cucina 5283 Ferry Street Niagara Falls, ON L2G 1R6

Port Dover Lago Trattoria 301 Main Street Port Dover, ON N0A 1N0 Simcoe The Combine 352 Norfolk Street South Simcoe, ON N3Y 2W9 St. Catharines Dani’s Bistro &Wine Bar 2-259 St Paul Street St. Catharines, On L2R 3M7 Lock Street Brewing Company 15 Lock Street St. Catharines, ON L2N 5B6 Toronto 360 Restaurant at the CNTower † 301 Front Street W Toronto, ONM5V 2T6

Grand Cru Deli 304 Richmond Street W Toronto, ONM5V 1X2 Le Sélect Bistro † 432Wellington Street West Toronto, ONM5V 1E3 Westport The Cove 2 Bedford Street Westport, ON K0G 1X0

Ottawa 1 Elgin 1 Elgin Street Ottawa, ON K1P 5W1 Perth Top Shelf Distillers † 14Warren Crescent Perth, ON K7H 3P4 Picton TheWaring House 395 Sandy Hook Road Picton, ON K0K 2T0

We Love Wine Country Ontario designates these restaurants as proud to have Ontario VQAwines on the menu. † Feast On recognizes businesses that are truly dedicated to showcasing Ontario’s unique taste of place .

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BR I NG HOME SOME GOOD

At the LCBO, bringing home something good isn’t just about taste. When you buy a product from one of our good partners, you know you’re helping create a better Ontario for everyone.

DOING GOOD HAS NEVER TASTED SO GREAT.

Giving back to the community is something we strongly believe in, and we’re proud to work with partners who share the same belief, dedicated to improving the lives of Ontarians every day. But supporting our community is just the beginning. Building a more sustainable Ontario is something we’re constantly pursuing with the help of our local partners, because the first step in taking care of the planet is taking care of our own backyard.

So go ahead, pour a glass from a good partner—enjoying it will be easy.

LOOK FOR OUR GOOD PARTNERS IN WINE, BEER AND SPIRITS IN-STORE AND AT LCBO.COM

W H E R E T W O F O R C E S M E E T

WWW.MAGNUMCREAML IQUEUR . CO.UK

IN SEASON NOW

Global eggplant Eggplant is as versatile as the world we live in. Check out these far-flung takes on how to cook it up best.

By Amy Rosen | Photography by rob fiocca

It’s a divisive vegetable to be sure, but we encourage you to try eggplant again— for the first time. While the eggplant of your youth may have been bitter and seedy, most of those traits have happily been bred out of this once-maligned vegetable, especially in the smaller varieties featured in most of these recipes. So forget spongy, oily and bland. Herewith, a global take on eggplant, to newly inspire!

Tel Aviv-Style Sabich Sandwiches

Recipe on page 136

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GLOBAL EGGPLANT

Eggplant Chips with Tzatziki

This recipe is a tip of the Greek hat to Estiatoria Milos in Montreal, a Greek taverna where the specialty is fresh fish and seafood, but its starter of fried, thinly sliced vegetables can be seen on just about every table in the restaurant. I think it’s the unusual frying technique that makes these so irresistibly crispy, light and airy, and when dipped in fresh tzatziki—opa! TZATZIKI ⁄ tsp (2 mL) sea salt ⁄ English cucumber, seeded and shredded 1 container (500 g) 2% Greek yogurt 2 small garlic cloves, minced ⁄ cup (60 mL) fresh dill, finely chopped 1 tbsp (15 mL) extra virgin olive oil

3 small graffiti eggplants, sliced paper-thin, preferably with a mandoline ⁄ cup (125 mL) flour Sea salt to taste 2 tbsp (30 mL) fresh oregano, roughly chopped 1 Sprinkle salt on shredded cucumber and set aside in a colander for half an hour to drain. 2 In a separate bowl, combine yogurt, garlic, dill, olive oil and black pepper. Stir and refrigerate. 3 Dry the cucumber by gently squeez- ing it between paper towels and com- bine with yogurt mixture. Stir well and refrigerate until serving. (It’s actually better the next day.) Store any le over tzatziki in an airtight container in the fridge for up to a week.

4 Heat oil in a large heavy-bottom saucepan over medium heat. 5 Place eggplant slices in a bowl of warm water. Remove a few slices at a time, shake off excess water, coat with flour and shake off excess flour. Dip slices back in the water and then carefully lay them away from you in the hot oil. Warning: the water will cause the oil to splatter a bit. Fry chips for about 5 minutes, using a slotted spoon to move them around and flip so that they cook evenly and don’t stick together. Once golden brown, remove and drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with salt. Repeat until all eggplant slices are cooked. 6 To serve, place a mound of tzatziki in a bowl on a serving platter, then stack the eggplant chips around it. Sprinkle with oregano. Serve at once.

Black pepper, to taste EGGPLANT CHIPS ⁄ cup (125 mL) vegetable oil, for shallow frying

Serves 4

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