LCBO Food & Drink Autumn 2020

AUTUMN 2020

The Autumn Issue

COMPLIMENTS OF

ADVERTISING FEATURE

Best served with friends. Like the ones down the road.

LOOKING FOR A LOCAL PAIRING? Try Peller Family Reserve Chardonnay VQAwith Upper Canada Cheese Company’s Comfort Cream.

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As a family-owned Canadian winery of over 50 years, we know traditions are important. But given everything going on right now, we thought we’d take the less traditional road and share this ad with our friends at Upper Canada Cheese Company. Like us, they know that good things take time. It’s why they make their cheese by hand in small batches, using time-honoured traditions. So let’s keep our traditions, but make new ones too. Because if there’s one thing we’ve learned from working so closely with family and friends all these years, it’s that we’re always better together.

Discover more great local pairings at lcbo.com/PairItForward and share your favourites using #PairItForward

Supporting Ontario. One pairing at a time. This message was shared thanks in part to our friends at Dairy Farmers of Ontario and Andrew Peller Ltd.

Upper Canada Cheese Company’s Niagara Gold

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Features

74 MARKET DAY MENU By Christopher St. Onge Celebrate the bounty at local

farmers’ markets with easy recipes using minimal ingredients that let flavour shine through. 82 NIAGARA’S NEXT GENERATION By Suresh Doss Meet Niagara wine country’s newest winemakers and growers—they’re leading the charge, bursting with ideas and know-how.

88 IN GOOD SPIRITS By Charlene Rooke Whether you’re a connoisseur

or just starting to explore, our guide to the best spirits for sipping has something for everyone.

96 ON THE BEET By Victoria Walsh

Dazzling with flavour and colour, the variety of beets in season right now punch up all kinds of dishes.

ON THE COVER Five-spice Pumpkin Tart with Candied Pepitas, recipe on page 104 Photography by Darren Kemper

74 MARKET DAY MENU

Shop the Issue at lcbo.com/ fdautumn20

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AUTUMN 2020 FOOD & DRINK

Departments FOOD 45 TWISTS THANKSGIVING BREAK By Eric Vellend For a laid-back Thanksgiving with just you and yours, this menu offers traditional flavours for a fraction of the effort. 55 FLAVOURS MEATLESS COMFORTS By Victoria Walsh In season now, mushrooms do a hearty, tasty job of replacing meat in comfort‑food classics.

103 ENTERTAINING EASY DOES IT By Heather Trim

Homemade fillings that zing with seasonal flavours top store‑bought crusts, creating perfect pies for any occasion.

123 SEASONAL TRICKS & TREATS By Christine Sismondo & Amy Rosen

55 meatless COMFORTS

With Halloween on a Saturday this year, there’s no better time to celebrate with any of our tasty small‑bite snacks and big‑batch cocktails.

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DRINK 37 FLAVOURS SMOKE SIGNALS By Christopher St. Onge

109 ENTERTAINING A BETTER BAR CART By James Chatto

Four autumnal drinks demonstrate out how well smokiness—a trendy flavour—works in cocktails.

Thanksgiving is a great time to switch out tried‑and‑true everyday wines or add something new for raising a toast.

65 LOCAL A TOAST TO ONTARIO By Chris Johns

117 TWISTS BEER FOR DESSERT By Crystal & Tara Luxmore

Local VQA wines offer all the quality and variety you could want for occasions both big and small this fall.

Surprisingly dessert-like beers make an excellent end to dinner— as dessert, or with dessert!

In every issue

144 ONTARIO MAKERs WOOD WORK By Brenda Morrison

143 RECIPE INDEX 143 SOURCE RESOURCE

12 EDITOR’S NOTES 19

INSIDE SCOOP By Eric Vellend The latest bits, bites and sips to keep you in the know.

Fabulous–and functional–locally made, handcrafted wood pieces for the home.

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FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2020

Coming next issue Holiday 2020

Easy holiday hosting A super simple supper that presents as an impressive dinner party menu Good, better & best From basic to mid-point to luxe, festive wines at any price Aroma therapy Recipes that will fill your home with the scents of the season All wrapped up! Everything you need to choose and give bottles in style

Many of the products featured in this issue are available to purchase online at lcbo.com.

VP Marketing & Customer Intelligence Vanda Provato Editor Jody Dunn Art Directors Karen Lim

Production Coordinator Judy Haverkort Publication Assistant Piper MacFadyen Production Assistant

For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about LCBO products and policy please contact helloLCBO online at hellolcbo.com, or call toll-free 800•668•5226 or 416•365•5900. TTY Only: 416•864•6898 or 800•361•3291. All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the LCBO’s advertising agreement. Food & Drink is published five times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Volume 28, Number 1. Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 percent post‑consumer fibre. Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs.

Everton Smith Food Stylists Michael Elliott, Eshun Mott, Christopher St. Onge Prop Stylists Christine Hanlon, Catherine MacFadyen, Andrea McCrindle, Shelly Shnier Contributors James Chatto, Chris Johns, Anna Kohn, Crystal Luxmore, Tara Luxmore, Brenda Morrison, Amy Rosen, Christine Sismondo, Christopher St. Onge, Heather Trim Publisher Wayne Leek Advertising Sales Kirby Miller, Beaches Media Services kirby@beachesmediaservices.com

Cathy Cicchini Drinks Editor Charlene Rooke

Food Editor Eric Vellend Content Editors Suresh Doss Victoria Walsh Publication Coordinators

Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Drink , 55 Lake Shore Boulevard East, Toronto, ON, M5E 1A4 ISSN 1195-5988

Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all LCBO stores. Prices are subject to change without notice. Cette publication est également disponible en français.

Leslie Bolter Margot Blais

Graphic Designers Dominique Patafio Pat Turbach

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AUTUMN 2020 FOOD & DRINK

LCBO NOTES

From our President & CEO

Dear friends,    Ontarians are still feeling the impact of a year that has drastically affected our lives. But with the change of seasons comes a change of outlook—an opportunity to look to the future and see how we can help our province move forward. At the LCBO, it has always been our mission to support Ontario and to improve the well-being of our communities at a local level. We find that commitment inspiring, and we will continue to honour it in many exciting new ways.    Autumn is always the time of year when the LCBO focuses on local Ontario products in this magazine, with in-store promotions and online. This fall, we are expanding that support with a new initiative we call “Pair it Forward.” It’s a province-wide program designed to help rebuild our industry by celebrating Ontario’s spectacular food and beverage makers. Starting with our great local alcohol producers, we will create a chain reaction as we “Pair it Forward” to local farmers, growers, makers, and bars and restaurants throughout the province— showing the world what Ontario is truly made of. With over 650 stores across Ontario, a heavily trafficked website and, of course, Food & Drink magazine, the LCBO is uniquely positioned to provide exposure to local businesses that need

it the most. And as we highlight good partners who are giving back to our communities, we also focus on those who are pushing Ontario forward with sustainable standards.    These are exactly the values that Food & Drink magazine has always upheld and that lie at the heart of this great new Autumn issue. “Pair it Forward” takes those ideas into the community, giving every one of us an opportunity to take part in the program and shape its success. Choosing “local” supports our whole industry, whether that means buying Ontario wines, beers, and spirits at the store or ordering them at local bars and restaurants. We all know the best way to rebuild our province is by working together and helping one another adapt to our current situation. So, let’s come together to support and celebrate our incredible local tastes, local drinks, and local businesses. Let’s come together for Ontario.

George Soleas President & CEO, LCBO

PORTRAIT BY JAMES TSE

To find out more about what the LCBO is doing to support local, visit lcbo.com/PairItForward and use #PairItForward on social media to highlight your favourite local small businesses.

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FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2020

EDITOR’S NOTES

Cheers to Fall!

After a summer spent adjusting to the new normal, autumn brings a return to routine—in a good way! Ontarians know how to embrace and celebrate the rituals of fall. While we’re still enjoying the last of the warm days, our minds are also turning to thoughts of cold-weather comforts and it feels like it’s time to get back to the table on weeknights and weekends. Thanksgiving and Halloween are just around the corner and no matter how you plan to mark those occasions, they should indeed be marked, whatever the size of your bubble. This year, Thanksgiving will likely have a limited guest list, so we asked our Food Editor, Eric Vellend, to create a casual menu that is ideal for just immediate family— whether you’re grazing all day or decide to get dressed up and set the table. Check it out on page 45. This is also a perfect occasion, we think, to contemplate sipping spirits on their own—straight up or over ice—as you linger around the fire. On page 88, our Drinks Editor, Charlene Rooke, shares some of her picks for those moments, whether you’re just dipping your toe into the spirit world, are looking for something new to try, or simply want to treat yourself. From easy pies (page 103) and stylish local dinnerware (page 32) to unique smoked cocktails (page 37) and suggestions for upgrading your bar cart (page 109), we’ve got plenty

of ways to enhance your day. Oh, and since Halloween is on a Saturday, we’ve got spooky cocktails and tasty small bites on page 123 for your pleasure too. No matter the season, when it comes to food and drinks, local is always our calling card—but especially in autumn. It’s harvest time in Ontario and its abundance is on full display throughout this issue. One of my personal faves, mushrooms, star in comfort food classics (and are the ultimate meat replacement) on page 55. Beets add flavour and vibrant colour to dishes both savoury and sweet on page 96. And we have a whole menu’s worth of farmer’s market finds starting on page 74. You’ll also find the perfect Ontario wine for any occasion big or small on page 65 and, on page 82, a feature on some of the bright young talents down in Niagara who are putting their mark on the local wine industry. And don’t forget, like George says (previous page), we want to hear about all the local treasures where you live, using #PairItForward on social media. We hope you enjoy the issue and that you have a spectacular fall!

PORTRAIT BY JAMES TSE

@lcbofoodanddrink

We’ve made it easier than

lcbofoodanddrink

ever to shop for the products in this issue. Visit lcbo.com/

LCBO

foodandrink to see how.

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AUTUMN 2020 FOOD & DRINK

PROUDLY CANADIAN MADE

Pleaseenjoy responsibly.Mustbe legaldrinkingage.OkanaganCiderCo.,usedunder license.

ADVERTISING FEATURE

Now is the ideal time to buy local, to show our support for Ontario’s wine country and the communities it helps support. To help you discover local, we’ve rounded up some customer favourites — tried-and-true wines you’ll come back for time and again. Red enthusiasts will find plummy, ripe blends made from 100 per cent Ontario-grown grapes. Those who prefer lighter wines will find crisp berried rosés and zesty white blends, perfect for sipping solo or pairing with salty snacks. Support local makers this season with these homegrown favourites DISCOVER VQA WINES THIS FALL

This fall, bring Ontario’s favourite local wines home for your fall moments.

Open Riesling- Gewürtzraminer VQA

Sandbanks Dunes Red VQA 346445 l 750 mL l $14.95 Full-bodied & Smooth (D – 15 g/L) A blend of Foch, Gamay and Cabernet grapes that brims with raspberry, red plum and chocolate notes.

Girls’ Night Out Rosé VQA 89862 l 750 mL l $13.95 Easygoing & Fruity (D – 15 g/L)

Red House Wine Co. Cabernet Shiraz VQA 219030 l 750 mL l $13.95 Medium-bodied & Fruity (D – 16 g/L) Taste cassis and ripe berries with a touch of black pepper in this dry, smooth red blend.

134965 l 750 mL l $11.95 Aromatic & Flavourful (M – 21 g/L)

Indulgent floral aromas set the tone for flavours of peach and hints of lychee. Off-dry with a wonderfully crisp finish.

This fruity rosé is bursting with the

aromas and flavours of field berries, apple jelly and citrus.

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“Sandbanks Dunes Red is a robust and rich red blend that stands up to BBQ beef ribs” — Laura Ruffolo, LCBO Product Manager, New World & Ontario Wines

For more great Ontario pairings, visit lcbo.com/PairItForward

ADVERTISING FEATURE

Flat Rock Cellars Twisted VQA 1578 l 750 mL l $17.95 Aromatic & Flavourful (D – 17 g/L)

Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Chardonnay come together in this zesty blend that’s ideal for sipping.

The Foreign Affair Winery The Conspiracy VQA

149237 l 750 mL l $19.95 Medium-bodied & Fruity (XD – 4 g/L)

A unique red blend that boasts notes of dried berry and spice. Pair this with grilled steak.

Trius Red VQA 303800 l 750 mL l $24.95 Medium-bodied & Fruity (XD – 4 g/L)

A Bordeaux-inspired dark berry blend that’s perfectly suited to lamb or roast beef.

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“With just a kiss of sweetness, Flat Rock Cellar’s unique blend Twisted pairs perfectly with savoury roasted squash soup. Opposites really do attract!” — Laura Ruffolo, LCBO Product Manager, New World & Ontario Wines

For more great Ontario pairings, visit lcbo.com/PairItForward

We ’ re stronger as a collective.

Through our Spirit of Sustainability platform, we are committed to improving the well-being of Ontarians and celebrating diversity and inclusion. We are proud to recognize LCBO’s good partners, like Collective Arts Brewing and their initiative More, which is pushing the boundaries of how the global arts community can impact the world for the better. More will be launching a limited-edition beer series that will feature art that engages with issues of social justice, touching on everything from inequality to visions of hope for a safer and more inclusive future. The series, called Ampli ed Voices, will be launching in tandem with our Spirit of Sustainability initiative Pair It Forward. To show our support, we’re amplifying their message by asking featured artists how they want to Pair It Forward to businesses across Ontario.

Artwork by Maia Faddoul

You can support our good partners simply by enjoying them. Find Collective Arts in-store and online today.

@beachhillbbq beachhillsmokehouse.com Beach Hill Smokehouse is Black owned and one of Toronto’s tastiest BBQ restaurants. They specialize in authentic Texas BBQ, so you can expect mouth-watering smoked meats that fall right o the bone. Best of all? Everything’s always served with Southern hospitality. @essentialsbytemi essentialsbytemi.com A portion of proceeds from sales supports female entrepreneurs in rural communities. Temi is a low-waste and plant-based skin-care company from Toronto. It is Black owned and originates from the Yorùbá language translating to “mine.” Their products are designed to help you nd balance—physically, spiritually, and socially. Mofer Co ee is a Black owned, Ethiopian-style co ee shop and a Toronto favourite, thanks to their commitment to great taste and a warm, inviting atmosphere. They proudly source only the best Ethiopian beans in order to bring the very best co ee avour possible to the community.

Andrew Patterson is a Toronto-based artist and designer, who’s currently focused on mixed-race identity and the unique perspective it presents. He works mostly in acrylic, ink, and spray paint, communicating these ideas through contemporary portraiture. When asked who he’d Pair It Forward with, Andrew chose Beach Hill Smokehouse , the best BBQ in Toronto. Maia Faddoul is a rst-generation Canadian illustrator and designer with a passion for bright and colourful imagery. Her work is bold, joyous, and often depicts messages of intersectional feminism, empowerment, and social justice. When asked who she wanted to Pair It Forward with, Maia immediately named Temi .

Andrew Patterson @visiblenoise andrewpatterson.ca

Maia Faddoul @maiafadd maiafaddoul.com

Shalak Attack is a Canadian-Chilean

visual artist dedicated to painting murals on the street and canvases in her studio. With her acclaimed series of evocative Animal Spirits and vibrant human portraits, she creates visual narratives that strive to honour the sacred power of Nature. She chose to Pair It Forward with Toronto- based Mofer Co ee .

Shalak Attack @shalakattack shalakattack.com

@moferco ee moferco ee.com

Supporting Ontario. One pairing at a time.

and see how you can support Ontario at LCBO.com/PairItForward . Support your favourite local makers, artisans, and businesses using #PairItForward

PAIRS BEAUTIFULLY WITH FALL.

Celebrate the tastes of the season with Black River Cheese. Crafted from the finest of local ingredients, for the finest of occasions. Discover our latest pairing suggestions at blackrivercheese.com.

Inside scoop The latest bits, bites and sips to keep you in the know.

By Eric Vellend | PHOTOGRAPHY by rob fiocca and james tse

30

20 Using your noodle 20 Thanksgiving lite 22 Beer and now 22 Who to follow 22 The power of one 24 Fortified with vermouth 26 Mellow yellow 26 Red is best 28 Toddy harmonics 28 Nuts for squash 28 Zero clucks 30 Falling for rosé 30 Let it grow 32 4 local plates to gather round and a one-pot pasta to wow the family. On the drinks side, we’ve got Hot Toddy tips, seasonal beers and ciders plus lower-buzz wines to pair with Thanksgiving dinner. In fall we return to the comfort of the kitchen with enthusiasm. There is sweet honeynut squash to roast, fresh turmeric to finally try,

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Let it grow 30

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FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2020

INSIDE SCOOP

SEASONAL SIPS

Thanksgiving lite

Stocking your bar for Thanksgiving dinner? Then consider some of the new reduced-alcohol options at the LCBO. Before dinner, make a Gin and Tonic with Botica Low-Alcohol Gin ( LCBO 13736, 500 mL, $26.95); this Spanish spirit has less than half the alcohol of traditional gin. With the main feast pour two local, affordable wines containing only 8% alcohol- by-volume. The crisp Peller Family Vineyards Light Pinot Grigio ( LCBO 16785, $10.45) would be excellent with lighter appetizers and turkey breast. And fans of dark meat should try the smooth, fruity Jackson- Triggs Cabernet Sauvignon Light ( LCBO 12287, $10.95).

Sourdough experiments not working out? How about taking on scratch pasta instead. We asked Leandro Baldassarre, owner of Famiglia Baldassarre (famigliabaldassarre.com), a fresh pasta shop in Toronto, for tips on making it at home. Using your noodle EXPERT ADVICE

For a fresh-pasta novice, what’s a good starting point? A hand-cranked pasta roller—like the one from Imperia—makes every- thing easier. My grand- mother used it her entire life. (My other grandmother used a broomstick!) A small analogue scale helps and it doesn’t cost very much. If you have a digital scale, great, but I don’t like when the batteries run out. Do you need a special type of flour? You can use any flour for fresh pasta, but softer flours are easier to work with; there is less elasticity, less tension.“00” flour for fresh

pasta is very finely ground and it retains the yellow of the eggs better than all-purpose. Is there a standard recipe to follow? One large egg per 31/2 oz (100 g) of flour, and that’s one portion. Add a touch of water if it’s feeling too tight, or a little flour if it’s too wet. Pasta dough shouldn’t feel like bread dough. It should feel pretty tight, but still fold onto itself. What about storing fresh pasta? You need to dry it a bit first. Leave your sheet out or hang it on a stick until it’s leathery and doesn’t want

to stick to itself. Cut it into long noodles, make nests and dry it some more, but don’t let it crack. Put it in Tupperware and in the fridge. Ultimately fresh pasta is meant to be eaten right away. Are there any secrets to cooking fresh pasta? For long pastas, it’s really fast. If it’s 1 to 1.5 mm thick, you’re looking at 45 seconds straight off the board. Lots of salt in the water then toss it quick and don’t beat it up in the pan. Remember it’s more delicate than dry pasta, so stay away from metal utensils. With metal, you are going to destroy it.

PHOTO TOP LEFT: JOSE SILVA; TOP RIGHT: LEANDRO BALDASSARRE

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AUTUMN 2020 FOOD & DRINK

home.liebherr.com

INSIDE SCOOP

Beer and now If you’re looking to sample new and seasonal brews—including a pair of near beers—grab a reusable, recyclable eight-pack carrier (in over 400 LCBO stores) and fill it up with prospective fall favourites. WHAT’S NEW

AmsterdamHazy Town IPA LCBO 16896, 473 mL, $3.35 Muskoka Munich To My Ears LCBO 16887, 473 mL, $3.95 Lake of Bays Pumpkin Ale LCBO 480012, 473 mL, $3.45 Budweiser Zero LCBO 16976, 473 mL, $2.50 Partake Brewing Non-Alcoholic Pale Ale LCBO 617878, 355 mL, $2.00 Creemore Springs Urbock LCBO 15469, 473 mL, $3.30 St-Ambroise Pumpkin Ale LCBO 518720, 473 mL, $3.05 Bellwoods Brewery Roman Candle LCBO 16874, 473 mL, $5.00

Shop the Issue at lcbo.com/ fdautumn20

COOKSTOWN GREENS PHOTO BY VICKY BLACKWELL

KITCHEN HACK

The power of one Cooking pasta in the same pot as the sauce is an obscure Italian technique that’s caught on like wildfire in North Amer­ ica. It’s definitely different from traditional two-pot-and- a-colander pasta—the extra starch gives the dish a silky, risotto-esque texture—and it’s undeniably delicious. Try our kid-approved One-Pot Spaghetti al Pomodoro (recipe on page 135) and see what all the fuss is about.

One pot, no colander, perfect pasta in minutes.

Who to follow: @cookstown_greens Want to see where your food comes from this harvest season? Then follow along on Instagram with the French family at Cookstown Greens in Essa Township. The darling of local chefs and veg-heads, this organic farm grows more than 120 kinds of vegetables, in- cluding many offbeat varieties such as Purple Haze carrots, Nicola potatoes and Golden Pippen squash.

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AUTUMN 2020 FOOD & DRINK

INSIDE SCOOP

Fortified with vermouth TRENDSPOTTING

Old Hickory While New Orleans is best known for boozy libations such as Sazeracs and Hurricanes, there are some underappreciated Creole cocktails much lower on the buzz scale. Light and refreshing, yet boldly flavoured, the Old Hickory (recipe on page 135) offers a yin-yang of dry and sweet vermouth spiced up with two kinds of bitters. It’s the perfect aperitif before a big fall feast. DRINK OF THE SEASON

Whether it’s tempering a Martini, sweetening a Negroni or sipped on its own, vermouth holds court over cocktail hour. Here’s everything you need to know about this beguiling wine. What is vermouth? Vermouth is white wine that’s been fortified with a little neutral spirit for a longer shelf life. It’s sweetened by varying degrees and flavoured (a.k.a. aromatized) with herbs, roots, barks and spices. What is the difference between dry and sweet? The same colour as white wine, dry vermouth is light, herbal and, despite the name, medium-dry in sweetness. Sweet vermouth gets its burnt red colour from caramelized sugar and tends to be bitter, more boldly spiced and sweeter than many dessert wines. The most recognized brands of dry vermouth are made in France, whereas the bulk of sweet vermouth comes from Italy. There is a third type of vermouth called bianco or blanc. It has the colour and flavour of dry, but its sugar level is generally halfway between dry and sweet. What’s the best way to serve it? Vermouth is best served as a 3-oz pour on the rocks in a lowball glass. Dry vermouth benefits from a lemon twist, and sweet or bianco improves with an orange twist. In warmer weather, a splash of soda water will add some refreshment. Howdo youmixwith it? In bar-speak, vermouth is a “modifier,” as it softens the punch of spirits while adding its own unique flavours to a cocktail. Dry tends to go better with lighter spirits like vodka and gin, whereas sweet plays well with heavier aged spirits including whisky and rum. Bianco has an affinity for gin and tequila.

If you have a bottle of vermouth languishing in the fridge—which is where you should store it after opening—pull it out for cooking. Dry vermouth can be used almost interchangeably with white wine, where it will add a touch more sweetness and com- plexity. It’s especially good with seafood preparations such as steamed mussels, and it’s excellent in mushroom dishes including our comforting Mushroom & Cauliflower Soup Gratinée (recipe at lcbo.com/fdautumn20). Sweet vermouth has far fewer applications in the kitchen, however it’s great as a base liquid for poaching pears or dried fruit. Cook with vermouth

Ones to try … Dolin Vermouth de Chambéry Dry AOC LCBO 370858, $14.90 Dillon’s Vermouth VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 571133, $19.95 Martini Bianco Vermouth LCBO 218040, 1 L, $14.95

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AUTUMN 2020 FOOD & DRINK

NEW!

ARE YOU FREE TONIGHT?

A wine inspired by those sudden and undeniable attractions. Enjoy these moments while you can, you don’t know if they’ll last.

Now available at your local LCBO.

$ 9.95

Smooth and Silky Red LCBO# 16806

Fresh and Clean White LCBO# 16776

Please enjoy responsibly.

INSIDE SCOOP

Mellow yellow TRENDSPOTTING

Finding its way into everything from drinks and desserts to dietary supplements, turmeric is the hottest spice in the pantry.

Turmeric has been used in many cuisines for millennia, but North America has recently become obsessed with the orange-gold rhizome. Its purported health benefits first made it the darling of the natural food set, who appropriated India’s golden milk drink and rebranded it as a turmeric latte. (Warning: turmeric’s cure-all abilities touted by alternative medicine have almost no scientific backing.) Then cooks began to experiment with the spice using its bitter, earthy flavour and vibrant colour in o eat ways, in ice cream and teacakes for instance. Fresh turmeric, which is grown right here in Ontario by the Canadian Ginger Company (canadianginger.com), is now readily available. You can grate it like fresh ginger into savoury dishes, steep slices in hot water for tea, or run it through the juicer with carrots and apples.

TURMERIC PHOTO BY ©ISTOCK.COM/POPOVAPHOTO

Red is best TAKEOUT TONIGHT? From fast-food favourites to gourmet creations, takeout burgers demand an easy-drinking, affordable red. New to the Vintages ( VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 452789, $14.95) fits the bill and then some. This fruity, medium-bodied blend from Portugal is terrific with any burger, whether it’s all-beef or plant-based, and it’s priced right for weekday sipping. Essentials collection, Confidencial Riserva

Japanese curry powder

Dried turmeric plays a support- ing role in many spice blends, from Moroccan ras el hanout to Persian advieh. In our Japanese Curry Powder, however, it’s the star of the show. Experience this mild, complex and unique spice in Japanese Chicken Curry or vegan Japanese Squash Curry, both recipes (plus Japanese Curry Powder) at lcbo.com/fdautumn20.

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AUTUMN 2020 FOOD & DRINK

IT STARTS

A P E RO L + P ROS E CCO + SODA

APEROLCANADA APEROLCANADA

Please Enjoy Responsibly.

INSIDE SCOOP

TRENDSPOTTING

Nuts for squash There is a new squash in town: it’s small, sweet and has chefs in a tizzy. We asked a local farmer what all the fuss is about.    The honeynut squash grew out of a challenge. American Chef Dan Barber asked Michael Mazourek, a plant breeder at Cornell University, to create a butter­ nut squash that actually tasted good. Mazourek took an existing cross between a butternut and buttercup then crossbred it until it was less than half the size of a traditional butternut with deep-orange flesh and edible skin.    Paul Stewart of Footstep Organics (footsteporganics.ca), a farm northwest of Belleville, Ont., planted this new squash for the first time last year with great success.    “Compared to butternut, they’re sweeter with a rich, deep flavour,” he says. “They take a little longer to grow, are less disease resistant and less productive. But they sell themselves. Chefs were buying up bins at a time.”    Unlike butternut, honeynut is genuinely seasonal and doesn’t store as well, so keep an eye out for it from late September until early December. And they’re not alone. A new wave of winter squash is being bred for quality over quantity.    “We planted honey boat delicata squash too,” says Stewart. “It’s tan orange and way better than a normal Delicata.”

When the mercury drops into sweater weather, nothing says cozy like a Hot Toddy. A classic Toddy takes 1 oz of whisky—Forty Creek Cooper Pot Reserve Whisky (LCBO 285254, $32.50) is an excellent choice—with 4 to 6 oz of hot water; sweeten to taste with honey and add a slice of lemon. Done! For a twist, you could use brandy or Calvados with warmed sweet cider, and garnish with a cinnamon stick. Or try aged rumwith black tea, brown sugar and a few cloves. Two Toddy tips to think about: first, it’s best to put spirits separately into the mug so the alco- hol doesn’t evaporate on the stovetop; second, if you’re infusing the drink with whole spices, add them at the end as a garnish so they don’t overpower the drink. Toddy harmonics SEASONAL SIPS

FAUX BETTER

Zero clucks From fast food joints to the supermarket freezer, plant- based “chicken” is the next big thing. Now that plant-based “beef” burgers are firmly in the mainstream, vegans have set their sights on the chicken coop. Borrowing from millennia-old Chinese traditions, the new breed of mock chicken uses soy for protein and wheat gluten for texture. Both A&W and KFC did highly successful limited test runs of plant-based “chicken” dishes last year, and you can now find many meat-free poultry alterna­ tives at the supermarket.

Our favourite is Lightlife Smart Tenders Plant-Based Chicken (170 g, $4.49, metro.ca), a fresh, heat-and-serve product that admira­ bly mimics the bird’s meaty texture—it would be great in stir- fries or fajitas. From the frozen sec­ tion, we like President’s Choice Plant-Based Chickenless Breaded Cutlets (340 g, $6.99, loblaws.ca), which are nicely seasoned with a crunchy seven-grain crust.

PORTRAIT BY BORIS COQUEREL; HONEYNUT SQUASH BY ©ISTOCK.COM/BSPOLLARD

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AUTUMN 2020 FOOD & DRINK

AVAILABLE AT A GROCERY STORE NEAR YOU

FeverTreeCanada #mixwiththebest

INSIDE SCOOP

Just because the leaves are turning doesn’t mean rosé season is over. With plenty of options on LCBO shelves, you can still drink pink for months to come. From Navarra, Spain, Gran Feudo Rosé (LCBO 165845, $12.95) is deep pink with red berry notes and the weight to handle big- ger fall flavours. And from France’s Loire Valley, De Chanceny Crémant de Loire Rosé Brut (LCBO 211466, $20.30) is a dry, zesty sparkler that would be an excellent aperitif before Thanksgiving dinner. Falling for rosé TRENDSPOTTING

Shop the Issue at lcbo.com/ fdautumn20

Let it grow Since many recipes call for only the dark section of a green onion, its lighter half often ends up limp and forgotten in the crisper. Sure, they can be thrown into soups, stocks and stir-fries, but there is a popular new use for the ignored white. Simply stand the whites upright in a jar or glass and add about an inch of water. Place next to a window and after just one week they should sprout two to five inches of new greens! KITCHEN HACK

Rosé with fall fare

Whether it’s still or sparkling, rosé is one of the most food-friendly wines on the planet. Pour it with shrimp or pork chops during the final months of grilling season. It can handle spicier cuisines like Indian and Thai. And rosé is excellent with roast duck or Thanksgiving turkey. Try it on a weeknight with our quick, one-pan Anise-Scented Sausages with Caramelized Pear & Onion, recipe at lcbo.com/fdautumn20.

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AUTUMN 2020 FOOD & DRINK

Our winemaking isn’t just about tradition.

TheMcManisVineyards andWinery areCerti ed

It’s about looking ahead tomake sure that

Sustainable,meeting the standards that safeguard

tomorrow’s vineyards are even better than

the quality of our environment, our community -

the ones we’re cultivating today.

and our wines. Now that’s a good pour.

Mindful.

CER T I F I ED SUS TA I NABLE

VEGAN FR I ENDLY

•

AVintages“Essential”always available at the LCBO. Please enjoy responsibly. Represented in Ontario by The Vine. thevineagency.ca

F A M I L Y V I N E Y A R D S ®

INSIDE SCOOP

Cylinder Studio Our pick for kitchens with open shelves: each 10-inch dinner plate ($45) by cerami- cist Caitlin O’Reilly is slightly different, from the organic shape to the thickness of the hand-poured glaze. Her signature detail, the buff clay edge is a striking contrast of colour and texture against the smooth glazed surface. Prince Edward County, cylinderceramics.com

4 local plates to

gather round Handcrafted dinnerware by local artisans is (almost) too beautiful to cover up with food.

by Brenda Morrison

Token Home Goods Ceramic artist Niki Marie Groulx spe- cializes in handmade functional home goods, including wheel-thrown grey stoneware plates with white speckled glaze. Her graphic Nesting Plates ($150, set of 4) can be arranged and stacked in infinite ways, making it easy to create an artistic impression at any table. Chatham, tokenhomegoods.com

Spirit Wares From a team of chefs and restaurateurs comes a formidable collection of artisanal dinnerware that’s not only exquisite to look at, but also practi- cal and durable for every- day use. Choose from two distinct collections— Reactive and Earthen— with plates priced from $24 each. Toronto, spiritwares.com

Meilen Ceramics Setting a new standard for contemporary tableware, Meilen (pronounced “mylen”) Ceramics 10-inch dinner plates (from $120 each) are a treat. Made with a proprietary technique for colouring the clay in a rainbow of hues—from pale pastels and rich jewel tones, sophisticated neutrals and even cus- tom tones—they’re available in matte and glossy finishes. Toronto and Hamilton, meilenceramics.com

To learn more about #pairitforward and show your support, visit lcbo.com

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AUTUMN 2020 FOOD & DRINK

Advertising Feature

THE COOLEST WINESON EARTH

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Advertising Feature

AromaticWhites Germany’s cool summer nights intensify the exotic aromas of so many of our white varieties. Just think of Gewürz’ with its rose petal and acacia honey fragrance, or Grauburgunder (aka Pinot Grigio) which often suggests pears, hazelnuts and pineapple! Dry but rich and packed with flavour, these wines are fantastic with seafood and all sorts of Asian foods from sushi to Szechuan chicken.

Baden Gewürztraminer, 750ml, LCBO # 336735, $11.95

LCBO PICKS Dachshund Pinot Grigio, 750ml, LCBO #539536, $12.95

Sekt

For centuries, German vintners have been blending fine wines made from different grape varieties then refermenting them to make crisp, dry, beautifully balanced bubbly. We call our sparkling wine Sekt and it tends to show up wherever there’s a special event happening or something to celebrate… Or just because people are feeling like having fun!

TRY IT WITH

Eggs Baked in Sweet Potato Hash Bubbles at brunchtime? Of course! Dry Sekt cuts through all the hash’s rich, hearty textures.

TRY IT WITH

Pan-roasted Ontario Pickerel This Pinot Grigio has the body and richness to handle brown butter but is still nimble enough to flatter the pickerel.

LCBO PICKS RELAX Bubbles, 750ml, LCBO #488593, $13.95

Henkell Trocken, 750ml, LCBO #122689, $14.95

Black Tower Dornfelder Pinot Noir Pfalz, 750ml, LCBO #580118, $11.95

LCBO PICKS Villa Wolf Pinot Noir Pfalz, 750 ml, LCBO #291971, $14.95

Elegant Reds

You may not associate us with Pinot Noir (or Spätburgunder, as we call it) but Germany produces more than any country in the world, after France and the USA. The thing is, Germans love it so much that hardly any bottles get to travel and see the world. Few red wines are so light on their feet – and so full of character: look for suave cherry and red berry aromas with hints of almond and smoke. And Germany has other reds, of course. Dornfelder is our second most popular red variety – bringing deep colour, gentle tannins and lovely red fruit flavours.

TRY IT WITH

Sausage-stuffed Mushrooms with Ricotta Salata The fennel-spiked tomato sauce builds a tasty bridge into the wine’s lively red fruit flavours.

It comes as no surprise that the chefs who lead the NewNordic Cuisine movement love German wines. Their contemporary Northern European dishes showcase purity, freshness and regional authenticity – exactly the qualities that our wines share. Interestingly, German wines also work superbly well with Asian food, where a meal typically includes a variety of dishes and many nuances of sweet, sour and salty, bitterness and umami. The light weight and seamless textures of our wines make them amazingly versatile. And their racy acidity, often balanced by a hint of sweetness, can handle all sorts of strong, spicy and even fermented flavours. The wine flatters the food but still maintains its integrity. GeRmanWIne, Global Food The most food-friendly wines of all

Advertising Feature

RELAX Riesling Mosel, 750ml, LCBO #621888, $12.95

LCBO PICKS Dr. Loosen Berkasteler Lay Riesling Kabinett, 750ml, LCBO #15295, $29.95 (Vintages release 08/22/20, limited quantities)

Riesling

From tangy, bone-dry Mosel, full of lime and mineral notes, to the lush extravagance of Eiswein, Riesling is Germany’s versatile masterpiece. Winemakers let it reveal all the nuances of the place it was grown (to the delight of connoisseurs), using harvest time and the length of fermentation to achieve the fine balance of acidity and ripe sweetness they desire. Some Rieslings will evolve majestically in the cellar, developing complex secondary aromas of honey and petrol, but many are made to be drunk right now – bright with apple, peach or citrus fruitiness, with a telltale acidity that thrills your tongue.

TRY IT WITH

Cashew Chicken Curry RELAX Riesling’s fruitiness embraces the ginger, curry spices and toasted cashews in the dish, while its medium body complements the creamy sauce.

WInes and RecIpes can be found aT: WWW.lcbo.com/fdandGeRmanWInes

s.o.la. eneRGY

Sustainable. Organic. Lower Alcohol… Germany has always been a leader in organic and biodynamic grape-growing. It fits well with the ambitions of our winemakers: that nothing should come between the natural terroir of the vineyard and the wine it creates. Today, almost 10 percent of our wine lands are certified organic, a stat that continues to grow quickly as German wine lovers become more aware and appreciative of the benefits of sustainable winemaking. Thanks to our cool climate, German wines are naturally light in alcohol – a quality that fits well with the life choices people are making these days. And lower alcohol also means fewer calories – another plus for a lot of us!

WanT To knoWmoRe? fInd ouT all abouT THe cool WInes

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FLAVOURS

Smoke signals

Smoky flavours are trending big-time— in single malt whisky, salt, liquid seasoning and more—so check out our four autumnal drinks that prove how well smokiness works in cocktails.

By Christopher St. Onge | Photography by rob fiocca

CAMPFIRE OLD FASHIONED FOR A CROWD Recipe on page 140 Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight Bourbon LCBO 605063 $42.20 TRY WITH…

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FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2020

SMOKE SIGNALS

Lagavulin 8 Year Old Islay Single Malt Scotch LCBO 479881, $89.95 TRY WITH…

Peat’s Cure

Inspired by a famous cocktail named Penicillin, this one is for the smoke lover. Single malt Islay Scotch is heady with smoke from the burning peat used to dry the grains. If Scotch isn’t your thing, the cocktail works beautifully with Reposado Mezcal, another smoky liquor, as well. 1 In a cocktail shaker filled with ice, combine 1 ⁄ oz Islay Single Malt Scotch, 1 oz Honey Thyme Syrup (recipe follows) and ⁄ oz lemon juice. Shake and strain into a cocktail glass filled with ice. Garnish with a thyme sprig and lemon peel. Using a kitchen torch, ignite the ends of the thyme sprig and serve.

Makes 1 cocktail

Honey Thyme Syrup In a small pot, combine ⁄ cup (125 mL) honey, ⁄ cup (125 mL) water and 3 branches thyme. Bring to a boil, remove from heat and let stand 15 minutes. Strain and chill.

Makes 1 cup (250 mL)

NO SMOKE GUN? NO PROBLEM. SMOKY SPIRITS, SMOKED SALT, LIQUID SMOKE AND EVEN DARK SUGARS ARE ALL GREAT WAYS TO INTRODUCE THE FLAVOUR TO YOUR COCKTAILS.

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AUTUMN 2020 FOOD & DRINK

Please enjoy responsibly

SMOKE SIGNALS

Autumn Haze

You don’t need a degree in mixology for this one, but

there’s no need to tell anyone. This gorgeous cocktail features smoky overtones from two easily sourced ingredients. Smoked salt on the rim, and liquid smoke in the simple syrup. 1 Rim a coupe or cocktail glass with a mixture of 2 tbsp (30 mL) sugar and ⁄ tsp (1 mL) smoked salt. 2 In a cocktail shaker filled with ice, combine 1 oz rye, 1 oz carrot juice, ⁄ oz sweet vermouth, ⁄ oz lemon juice, and ⁄ oz Smoky Simple Syrup (recipe follows). Shake and strain into prepared glass. Smoky Simple Syrup In a small pot, combine ⁄ cup (175 mL) sugar, ⁄ cup (175 mL) water, 2 tsp (10 mL) whole all- spice, 5 whole cloves, and 5 drops liquid smoke. Set over medium heat, bring to a boil, and remove from heat. Let steep for 15 min- utes, strain and chill. Makes 1 cocktail

Crown Royal Northern Harvest Rye LCBO 434092, $35.95 TRY WITH…

Makes 1 ⁄ cups (310 mL)

Shop the Issue at lcbo.com/ fdautumn20

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AUTUMN 2020 FOOD & DRINK

SMOKE SIGNALS

Smoky Colada

Just like the one you know, only made with cooler weather in mind. Spiced with a bit of cinna- mon and just a whiff of smoke, it’s seriously good. The darker the sugar, the more smoky it is— look for deep-brown muscovado sugar, but in a pinch dark brown sugar will do. Creamed coconut is available in cardboard cartons and is solid rather than liquid. 1 In a blender, combine 1 ⁄ oz dark rum, 1 tsp (5 mL) firmly packed dark brown sugar, 2 tbsp (30 mL) creamed coconut, ⁄ cup (125 mL) chopped grilled pineapple (method follows), 1 oz pineapple juice and 5 standard- size ice cubes; purée. Pour into a tall glass and garnish with a long cinnamon stick. Using a kitchen torch, light the cinnamon stick, extinguish and serve. Grilled Pineapple Cut a peeled and cored pine- apple into ⁄ -inch (1-cm) slices widthwise (each slice is approx- imately ⁄ cup/125 mL and is enough for one cocktail). Sprin- kle each with ⁄ tsp (2 mL) dark brown sugar. Grill over medium- high heat in a grilling pan or outdoor grill for 3 minutes per side, or until darkly caramelized. A SMOKING GARNISH IS ABOUT MORE THAN GREAT THEATRE. IT DOUBLES DOWN ON FLAVOUR BY ENGAGING ALL THE SENSES INSTEAD OF ONE. Makes 1 cocktail

Bacardi Black LCBO 520288, $28.75 TRY WITH…

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AUTUMN 2020 FOOD & DRINK

COMING SOON

P R E M I UM Q U A L I T Y

ENJOY YESTERDAY TODAY.

Canadian Club® Blended Canadian Whisky, 40% alc./vol. ©2020 Canadian Club Import Company, Chicago, IL. U.S.A.

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AWARD-WINNING HIGHLAND SINGLE MALT

• • •

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represented by pma canada ltd. please enjoy responsibly.

join us on instagram @ thewhiskyexplorer and meet our makers .

TWISTS

HARVEST NACHOS WITH SQUASH, BRUSSELS SPROUTS & SMOKED CHEDDAR

Recipe on page 140

Thanksgiving break If a chill approach

to Thanksgiving appeals (maybe you want to graze all day or have an informal dinner with immediate family), this menu offers all the traditional flavours for a fraction of the effort.

By Eric Vellend photography by darren kemper

Thanksgiving doesn’t always have to mean extra folding chairs, annoying cousins and a 25-lb bird. In fact, some people would give thanks to avoid all that. For a small, casual gathering of immediate family, we’ve put together an easy menu packed with fall flavours and Thanksgiving spirit. There is silky

carrot hummus and cheesy harvest nachos to graze on throughout the afternoon. For dinner, dig into roast chicken, old-fashioned stuffing and crunchy autumn slaw. To finish, fragrant apple crisp, straight from the oven, is topped with melting scoops of ice cream. Happy Thanksgiving!

SEE SOURCE RESOURCE

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THANKSGIVING BREAK

CARROT HUMMUS

This smooth, creamy and gently smoky hummus gets its sweetness and colour from carrots and carrot juice. For a veggie tray with a fall feel, try carrots, celery sticks, briefly blanched brocco- lini and leaves of Belgian endive and Treviso radicchio. 1 can (540 mL) chickpeas, drained, rinsed ⁄ lb (225 g) carrots, about 2 medium, 1 clove garlic, grated on rasp 1/4 cup (60 mL) tahini paste 1/4 cup (60 mL) extra virgin olive oil, plus more for serving 2 tbsp (30 mL) fresh lemon juice 1 tsp (5 mL) smoked paprika 1 tsp (5 mL) cumin ⁄ tsp (2 mL) coriander Chili flakes and chopped cilantro to garnish Pita and crudités for serving 1 Place chickpeas, carrots and carrot juice in a medium saucepan. Cover and place over high heat. When it comes to a boil, season lightly with salt and reduce heat to maintain gentle simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until carrots are so , 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat. 2 Transfer mixture to blender and add garlic, tahini, olive oil, lemon juice, spices and salt to taste. Blend, holding lid firmly down, until smooth, stopping to scrape down bowl several times. Taste for salt and transfer to an airtight container. Cool, cover and refrigerate up to 5 days. 3 When ready to serve, bring desired amount of hummus to room tempera- ture then swirl in a shallow bowl. Driz- zle generously with olive oil and sprin- kle with chili flakes and cilantro. Serve with warm pita and raw vegetables. peeled, halved lengthwise, sliced ⁄ inch (8 mm) thick 1 cup (250 mL) carrot juice Salt to taste

MAKE SURE TO SERVE THIS HUMMUS IN A SHALLOW BOWL, SO EVERY BITE GETS SOME OF THE GARNISH.

Makes 3 cups (750 mL) or about 10 to 12 servings

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AUTUMN 2020 FOOD & DRINK

B E YO N D MATE R I AL

THANKSGIVING BREAK

BUTTERFLIED CHICKENS ROASTED ON OLD-FASHIONED STUFFING with AUTUMN SLAW Instead of a big bird, two small chickens are butterflied, dry- brined and roasted to juicy perfection on a bed of herbed sourdough stuffing. If you want to get in the Thanksgiving spirit, serve this dish with your favour- ite cranberry sauce or even the quivering red cylinder from a can. Find the recipe for Autumn Slaw on p. 140. CHICKENS 2 small chickens, each about 2 ⁄ to 3 lbs (1.13 to 1.36 kg) Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 3 tbsp (45 mL) chopped sage 2 tbsp (30 mL) canola oil STUFFING 2 tbsp (30 mL) unsalted butter 1 lb (455 g) onions, peeled, diced 2 stalks celery, diced ⁄ cup (60 mL) chopped inner celery leaves ⁄ cup (60 mL) chopped flat-leaf parsley 2 tbsp (30 mL) chopped sage 2 cups (500 mL) unsalted chicken stock 1 For the chickens, remove backbones with poultry shears or have your butcher do it. Lay them out on a baking sheet, skin-side up. With the palm of your hand, flatten the breasts and tuck the wing tips underneath the breasts. Season generously with salt, pep- per and sage. Place in an airtight container and refrigerate at least 1 day and up to 2 days. 2 For the stuffing, if your bread is fresh, lay it out on a baking sheet to dry out for 2 hours before transferring it to a large mixing bowl. 10 cups (2.5 L) cubed rustic sourdough bread, cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) cubes

7 Bake on middle rack until juices run clear, 35 to 40 minutes. Remove from oven. Using tongs and a large spatula, carefully transfer chickens to a cooling rack set over a baking sheet. Transfer stuffing to serving dish, putting crispy bits on top. Cover stuffing loosely with foil. Let chickens rest for 20 minutes then carve into serving pieces and arrange on a serving platter.

When it comes to a boil, season lightly with salt. Pour over bread and stir until combined and stock is absorbed. Transfer mixture to baking sheet and spread in even layer. 6 Wipe pan clean and place over medium-high heat. Add canola oil. Pat chickens dry with paper towel. Working with one at a time, cook chicken skin-side down until brown and crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Carefully flip and cook on other side just until it loses its raw co- lour, 1 minute more. Arrange chick- ens skin-side up over stuffing.

3 Preheat oven to 425 F (220 C). Line a baking sheet with parch- ment paper. 4 In a large frying pan, heat butter over medium heat. Add onion and celery. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are so and lightly golden, about 15 minutes. (The celery will still have some bite.) Stir in celery leaves and herbs. Cook 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper. Add vegetables to bowl with bread. 5 Return pan to burner and add chicken stock. Raise heat to high.

Serves 6 to 8

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