LCBO Food & Drink Autumn 2020

INSIDE SCOOP

Fortified with vermouth TRENDSPOTTING

Old Hickory While New Orleans is best known for boozy libations such as Sazeracs and Hurricanes, there are some underappreciated Creole cocktails much lower on the buzz scale. Light and refreshing, yet boldly flavoured, the Old Hickory (recipe on page 135) offers a yin-yang of dry and sweet vermouth spiced up with two kinds of bitters. It’s the perfect aperitif before a big fall feast. DRINK OF THE SEASON

Whether it’s tempering a Martini, sweetening a Negroni or sipped on its own, vermouth holds court over cocktail hour. Here’s everything you need to know about this beguiling wine. What is vermouth? Vermouth is white wine that’s been fortified with a little neutral spirit for a longer shelf life. It’s sweetened by varying degrees and flavoured (a.k.a. aromatized) with herbs, roots, barks and spices. What is the difference between dry and sweet? The same colour as white wine, dry vermouth is light, herbal and, despite the name, medium-dry in sweetness. Sweet vermouth gets its burnt red colour from caramelized sugar and tends to be bitter, more boldly spiced and sweeter than many dessert wines. The most recognized brands of dry vermouth are made in France, whereas the bulk of sweet vermouth comes from Italy. There is a third type of vermouth called bianco or blanc. It has the colour and flavour of dry, but its sugar level is generally halfway between dry and sweet. What’s the best way to serve it? Vermouth is best served as a 3-oz pour on the rocks in a lowball glass. Dry vermouth benefits from a lemon twist, and sweet or bianco improves with an orange twist. In warmer weather, a splash of soda water will add some refreshment. Howdo youmixwith it? In bar-speak, vermouth is a “modifier,” as it softens the punch of spirits while adding its own unique flavours to a cocktail. Dry tends to go better with lighter spirits like vodka and gin, whereas sweet plays well with heavier aged spirits including whisky and rum. Bianco has an affinity for gin and tequila.

If you have a bottle of vermouth languishing in the fridge—which is where you should store it after opening—pull it out for cooking. Dry vermouth can be used almost interchangeably with white wine, where it will add a touch more sweetness and com- plexity. It’s especially good with seafood preparations such as steamed mussels, and it’s excellent in mushroom dishes including our comforting Mushroom & Cauliflower Soup Gratinée (recipe at lcbo.com/fdautumn20). Sweet vermouth has far fewer applications in the kitchen, however it’s great as a base liquid for poaching pears or dried fruit. Cook with vermouth

Ones to try … Dolin Vermouth de Chambéry Dry AOC LCBO 370858, $14.90 Dillon’s Vermouth VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 571133, $19.95 Martini Bianco Vermouth LCBO 218040, 1 L, $14.95

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AUTUMN 2020 FOOD & DRINK