LCBO Food & Drink Autumn 2020

INSIDE SCOOP

TRENDSPOTTING

Nuts for squash There is a new squash in town: it’s small, sweet and has chefs in a tizzy. We asked a local farmer what all the fuss is about.    The honeynut squash grew out of a challenge. American Chef Dan Barber asked Michael Mazourek, a plant breeder at Cornell University, to create a butter­ nut squash that actually tasted good. Mazourek took an existing cross between a butternut and buttercup then crossbred it until it was less than half the size of a traditional butternut with deep-orange flesh and edible skin.    Paul Stewart of Footstep Organics (footsteporganics.ca), a farm northwest of Belleville, Ont., planted this new squash for the first time last year with great success.    “Compared to butternut, they’re sweeter with a rich, deep flavour,” he says. “They take a little longer to grow, are less disease resistant and less productive. But they sell themselves. Chefs were buying up bins at a time.”    Unlike butternut, honeynut is genuinely seasonal and doesn’t store as well, so keep an eye out for it from late September until early December. And they’re not alone. A new wave of winter squash is being bred for quality over quantity.    “We planted honey boat delicata squash too,” says Stewart. “It’s tan orange and way better than a normal Delicata.”

When the mercury drops into sweater weather, nothing says cozy like a Hot Toddy. A classic Toddy takes 1 oz of whisky—Forty Creek Cooper Pot Reserve Whisky (LCBO 285254, $32.50) is an excellent choice—with 4 to 6 oz of hot water; sweeten to taste with honey and add a slice of lemon. Done! For a twist, you could use brandy or Calvados with warmed sweet cider, and garnish with a cinnamon stick. Or try aged rumwith black tea, brown sugar and a few cloves. Two Toddy tips to think about: first, it’s best to put spirits separately into the mug so the alco- hol doesn’t evaporate on the stovetop; second, if you’re infusing the drink with whole spices, add them at the end as a garnish so they don’t overpower the drink. Toddy harmonics SEASONAL SIPS

FAUX BETTER

Zero clucks From fast food joints to the supermarket freezer, plant- based “chicken” is the next big thing. Now that plant-based “beef” burgers are firmly in the mainstream, vegans have set their sights on the chicken coop. Borrowing from millennia-old Chinese traditions, the new breed of mock chicken uses soy for protein and wheat gluten for texture. Both A&W and KFC did highly successful limited test runs of plant-based “chicken” dishes last year, and you can now find many meat-free poultry alterna­ tives at the supermarket.

Our favourite is Lightlife Smart Tenders Plant-Based Chicken (170 g, $4.49, metro.ca), a fresh, heat-and-serve product that admira­ bly mimics the bird’s meaty texture—it would be great in stir- fries or fajitas. From the frozen sec­ tion, we like President’s Choice Plant-Based Chickenless Breaded Cutlets (340 g, $6.99, loblaws.ca), which are nicely seasoned with a crunchy seven-grain crust.

PORTRAIT BY BORIS COQUEREL; HONEYNUT SQUASH BY ©ISTOCK.COM/BSPOLLARD

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AUTUMN 2020 FOOD & DRINK