LCBO Food & Drink Autumn 2023

HERBY BUTTERMILK BISCUITS These dreamy biscuits are filled with layers of buttery flakes and all the fresh herbs that feel like fall. The trick to getting them just right is to work quickly to keep the butter as cold as possible. A final quick chill in the freezer will help create an extra boost of steam in the oven, baking them up sky-high. 3 1/2 cups (875 mL) all-purpose flour 2 tsp (10 mL) baking powder 1/2 tsp (2 mL) baking soda 1 tsp (5 mL) granulated sugar 1 tsp (5 mL) fine sea salt Freshly ground black pepper to taste Freshly grated nutmeg to taste 2 tbsp (30 mL) finely chopped chives 2 tsp (10 mL) finely chopped sage 1 tsp (5 mL) finely chopped rosemary 1 cup (250 mL) cold, unsalted butter, cut into 1/2 -inch (1-cm) cubes 1 1/4 cups (310 mL) cold shaken buttermilk, plus extra for brushing 1. Position rack in centre of oven. Preheat to 425°F (218°C). Line a baking sheet with parch ment paper. 2. In a large mixing bowl, whisk flour with baking powder, baking soda, sugar and salt. Season with pepper and nutmeg. Whisk in chives, sage and rosemary. Add butter and work gently between fingers and thumbs until mixture is crumbly with some flakes scattered throughout. Drizzle in buttermilk. Mix with a fork to combine. Lightly knead a few times in the bowl until flour is just incorporated, being careful not to overwork. Transfer to a lightly floured surface. 3. Roll dough into a rough rectangle about 1/2-inch (1-cm) thick. Using a sharp knife, cut crosswise into thirds. Stack each third on top of the other. Give the dough a quarter turn and roll out again to 1/2-inch (1-cm) thick. Repeat cutting and stacking. Give the dough a quarter turn and roll out into a 7 x 10-inch (18 x 25-cm) rectangle, about 3/4-inch (2-cm) thick. Trim edges, if needed. Cut lengthwise into thirds then crosswise into quarters to create 12 even squares. Arrange on prepared baking sheet at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart. Freeze for 10 minutes. 4. Brush buttermilk lightly overtop of each biscuit. Bake in centre of oven until deeply golden, 15 to 17 minutes. Transfer to a rack and let cool. (Biscuits will keep in an airtight container up to 3 days.)

2. Combine water with sugar, allspice, car damom and cinnamon in a large pot. Set over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Add pears, laying them on their sides. Reduce heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook, turning pears occasionally, until tender, 35 to 40 min utes. Remove from heat and let cool in syrup. 3. For the cake, position rack in bottom third of oven. Preheat to 350°F (177°C). 4. Generously butter an 8-inch (20-cm) smooth-based springform cake pan. Line bottom with parchment. Dust with cocoa. Set aside. 5. In a medium-size bowl, sift flour with cocoa powder, baking powder, baking soda and salt. 6. Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle, beat sugars with butter on medium speed until light, about 1 minute. Reduce speed to low. Add egg. Mix, until combined, scraping down sides if necessary. Add vanilla. Add flour mixture in three stages, alternating with buttermilk in two stages. Scrape batter into prepared pan; roughly smooth top. 7. Lift pears from syrup, lightly shaking to remove any syrup or spices from cavity. Drain upright on paper towel and pat dry. Strain syrup and reserve 3 tbsp (45 mL) for brushing cake. Save rest for another use. Carefully and evenly nestle pears into batter, upright, so their bottoms are pressed against base of pan. 8. Bake in bottom third of oven until a tester inserted into centre of cake comes out clean, 65 to 75 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack. Without disturbing pears, immediately brush cake with reserved syrup. Let cool completely, about 3 hours. 9. To finish, release the springform pan. Gen tly run a large offset spatula under the bottom to loosen, keeping parchment attached to cake. Carefully transfer to a cake stand. Dust with icing sugar to garnish, if desired. In a large bowl, whisk cream with icing sugar until soft peaks form. Serve immediately with cake and dust with cocoa if desired.

CHOCOLATE CAKE WITH SPICED POACHED PEARS

In this decadent dessert, Bosc pears are poached in a fragrant syrup then nestled into an intense chocolate cake. Choose pears that are ripe but firm so that they hold their shape throughout the cooking process. Leftover poaching liquid can be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks—use it to poach another batch of pears or as a cordial to sweeten sparkling water.

PEARS 5 firm Bosc pears 6 cups (1.5 L) water 4 cups (1 L) granulated sugar 12 whole allspice berries 8 green cardamom pods 1 cinnamon stick

CAKE 3/4 cup (175 mL) lightly packed dark brown sugar, plus more for pan 1/2 cup (125 mL) Dutch-processed cocoa powder, plus extra for dusting 1 cup (250 mL) all-purpose flour 1/2 tsp (2 mL) baking powder

1/4 tsp (1 mL) baking soda 1/2 tsp (2 mL) fine sea salt

1/4 cup (60 mL) granulated sugar 1/2 cup (125 mL) unsalted butter, at room temperature 1 large egg 1/2 tsp (2 mL) pure vanilla extract 3/4 cup (175 mL) shaken buttermilk

Serves 6 to 8

WHAT TO SERVE Graham’s Late Bottled Vintage Port LCBO 191239, $21.95

2 tsp (10 mL) icing sugar, plus extra to garnish (optional) 1 1/2 cups (375 mL) heavy cream (35%) 1. For the pears, use small end of a melon bal ler to scoop out cores from the bottoms. Peel pears, leaving stem intact. Set aside.

Port is a welcome treat over Thanksgiving. This LBV has ample sweetness, spice, choco late and berry tones to complement the cake’s flavours and density.

Makes 12 biscuits

176 FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2023