LCBO Food and Drink Early Summer 2016

EARLY SUMMER 2016

Get the whole look $ 7340 Reg. $14,690

Whole look includes: Gramercy sofa, Lindstrom chair, Lindstrom ottoman, Powell cocktail table, Kamali accent table, Ira sideboard, set of two Agate Slice art pieces, Coronado 8' x 11' area rug and Axis ceiling light.

ON REGULAR PRICE FURNITURE SAVE 50% POS PROCEDURES: Press 4 and press PRICE OVERRIDE key. Scan the SKN/UPC of the first item. Key 2(%) and press ENTER. Key the appropriate discount value (50%) and press ENTER. If customer has additional items, follow the above process or continue to scan any other merchandise. Press TOTAL. Scan/ Key coupon bar code. Tender transaction as per normal. Valid May 1 – June 30, 2016.

EXCLUDES: EQ3, Italia, Re-vive, Calvin Klein and online purchases. One coupon per transaction, not to be combined with any other offer. This coupon may be used only once. Coupon must be shown and surrendered upon use. Purchases made prior to the promotion period are not eligible. No price adjustments made prior to Sunday May 1, 2016. Hudson’s Bay may dishonour and confiscate any coupon that is not original or was obtained through unauthorized sources. This coupon has no cash value. All applicable taxes are payable on the full value of your purchase prior to the application of this coupon. Any refund will be reduced up to the value of the coupon as indicated on the sales receipt. Hudson’s Bay,

hbc.com and its associated designs are trademarks of Hudson’s Bay Company.

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Experience true

flavour

Prince Edward Island may be Canada’s smallest province, but it also ranks as the tastiest. With access to the freshest local seafood, beef, and produce, this destination offers more than exceptional beaches and scenic views. Whether you’re exploring the Fall Flavours Festival, an annual celebration of local culinary delights, or simply savouring the Island’s fresh flavours, discover Prince Edward Island through the eyes of a food lover.

North Cape Coastal Area

North Cape is not only known for its access to fresh Island mussels, lobster and Malpeque oysters, but also its beauty and splendour. So whether you’re looking for the rich history of ship building, farming and fishing or stunning views and meals, North Cape proudly offers it all.

Central Coastal Area

North Cape

Points East Coastal Area

Central Prince Edward Island is where food, artisans and picturesque scenery meet. From quaint meals and historic streets, to afternoons spent exploring farmers markets, it’s all here. Whether it’s to take in the sights or the freshest food from land and sea, Central Prince Edward Island is sure to please.

Central

Points East is where you’ll find wineries and distilleries that source local ingredients. It’s also the ideal location for foraging experiences. So if it’s gathering your own meals or trying the local fish and chip spots, dairy bars and cafés, Points East is always serving up something fresh.

Points East

Air Canada offers award-winning service and the most flights to Charlottetown, all year long with daily departures from Toronto, Montreal, and Halifax, and this summer from Ottawa. Book now at aircanada.com/PEI

Front row seats to

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That’s true f lavour

If you’re ready for stunning views, amazing shows on and off the stage and the freshest food from land and sea, Canada’s Food Island is ready for you.

Book now at PrinceEdwardIsland.com or call 1-877-445-4548.

AND ICE

PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY. ©2016 R & A Bailey & Co

BAILEYS

TABLE OF CONTENTS

FEATURES

78 DINING AT TWILIGHT By Lucy Waverman

Celebrate the summer solstice al fresco, savouring this delicious menu while dusk fades into a starry sky.

84 FRUITS OF THE VINE

By Michelle P.E.Hunt & Laura Panter Wine cocktails go beyond sangria and spritzers, with several wine styles all strutting their stuff.

90 DRESSED FOR SUCCESS By Christopher St. Onge

Skip store-bought condiments this summer—our five unique recipes are fresh and inventive, and can each be used many different ways. By Amy Rosen & James Chatto Merge the luxury of after-dinner drinks with the pleasures of dessert, creating light hybrids that are ideal on a hot summer’s day.

98 SWEET & SIMPLE

78

104 TWISTS ON TRADITION By Lucy Waverman

Switch things up a little this year: throw mom a BBQ on Mother’s Day, and dad a brunch on Father’s Day—either way these are menus worth celebrating!

ON THE COVER “Buffalo Wing” Lobster Sandwich, recipe on page 149. Photography by Rob Fiocca

FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2016 7

TABLE OF CONTENTS

DRINK

ENTERTAINING SUMMER SOCIALS By Eric Vellend

47

For a potluck twist on a cocktail party; bring along an artisanal spirit with a matching nibble, and prep a cocktail that makes the most of the combo.

113

SEASONAL POP-UP SUPPER By Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic

113

Ready-to-Drink options are ideal for last-minute plans—a couple of quick stops on the way home, plus friends to help toss everything together, make for low-stress entertaining.

DEPARTMENTS

FOOD

BEER CAN DO! By James Chatto

131

FLAVOURS VARIATIONS ON THE RADISH  By Julia Aitken

39

More and more craft brewers favour using cans for better shelf life and creative label design—sold in single servings, they’re also a great way to try out new beers.

Great ideas for the many unique radish varieties available this time of year—in an appetizer, side dish and two mains, they shine!

IN EVERY ISSUE

TRENDS OPEN CONCEPTS By Christopher St. Onge and James Chatto

55

EDITOR’S NOTES

12

As hearty cocktail bites or a light meal, these open-face sandwiches pair gorgeously with the newest wines on LCBO shelves.

A SPLASH OF RUM Dark, gold, light or even spiced and flavoured, rum stars in a multi-purpose BBQ marinade. WHAT’S NEW A selection of products from around the world available at the LCBO and Vintages.

19

SEASONAL MYSTERY PRODUCE By Cynthia David

65

21

No need to puzzle over what to do with the weird-looking fruits and vegetables that pop up at farmers’ markets—our guide outlines when to look for what, and how to use it.

MUST-HAVES Gifts we love to give in May and June. TRENDSPOTTING On our radar this issue—evergreen flavours.

26

TWISTS REVISITING THE ROAST By Jennifer MacKenzie

122

29

If you’re the one prepping a huge roast for a party, these standout leftovers recipes will make your efforts more than worthwhile.

RECIPE INDEX

174

FIVE QUESTIONS WITH… Nadège Nourian, pastry chef and owner of Nadège Patisserie in Toronto, is boldly building an empire of exquisite sweets.

176

ORIGINS TALKING TOFU By Robert Hercz

139

How tofu is made, tracing its migration from Asia to Europe to North America—plus tips on how to use.

8  FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2016

*

best

DISTILLED We use copper column stills to distill our grains.

AGED Our whisky is aged in three di erent types of barrels: virgin oak, Canadian whisky and American bourbon.

DRY-HOPPED Blended the good stu like they do in craft beers: natural bravo hops for avour.

ENJOY Real whisky, real hops for a rich dark ale nish. Beer’s favourite whisky.

/JPWisersCA

@JPWisersCA

jpwisers.ca

*As Awarded by the Canadian Whisky Awards 2015

Publication Director & SVP .........Nancy Cardinal Sales, Marketing & Insights

VP Marketing ..................................Kerri Dawson Editor .................................................Jody Dunn Art Director .....................................Karen Lim Senior Editor ...................................James Chatto Food Editor .......................................Lucy Waverman Contributing Editors ....................Charlene Rooke, Kat Tancock Publication Coordinator ............Leslie Virdo Senior Designer .............................Cathy Cicchini Graphic Designer .........................Pat Turbach Production Manager ...................Mark Greene Production Coordinator .............Judy Haverkort Publication Assistant .................Piper MacFadyen Production Assistant ...................Everton Smith Food Stylists ....................................Eshun Mott, Christopher St. Onge Prop Stylists ....................................Catherine MacFadyen, Andrea McCrindle, Lara McGraw Contributors ...................................Julia Aitken, Cynthia David, Robert Hercz, Michelle P.E.Hunt, Anna Kohn, Ann Lough,

COMING NEXT ISSUE DINING OUT Gourmet recipes for a camping trip LET IT SIT Deliciously original marinades CHILL YOUR REDS Cool things down this summer PLUM HARVEST Damson dishes and plummy drinks

Jennifer MacKenzie, Brenda Morrison, Eshun Mott, Laura Panter, Amy Rosen, Christopher St. Onge, Eric Vellend, Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic

Publisher ..........................................Wayne Leek

For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about LCBO products and policy please contact helloLCBO online at hellolcbo.com, or call toll-free 1•800•668•5226 or 416•365•5900. TTY Only: 416•864•6898 or 1•800•361•3291. For advertising in Food & Drink magazine, please contact Keystone Media, 416•224•1500 or e-mail foodanddrink@keystonemedia.ca. All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the LCBO’s advertising agreement. Food & Drink is published six times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Volume 23, Number 5. Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 percent post-consumer fibre. Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs.

Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Drink , 55 Lake Shore Boulevard East, Toronto, ON, M5E 1A4 ISSN 1195-5988

WATCH FOR THE S UMME R I S S UE OF

AVA I LABLE JUNE 29

Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all LCBO stores.

PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE. Cette publication est également disponible en français.

10  FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2016

© 2016 JOHNSONVILLE SAUSAGE, LLC

EDITOR’S NOTES

We all have moments (or seasons) where we embrace the convenience of prepared foods, either as the heart of a meal or to round out a meal with side dishes. You can’t beat the simplicity of picking something up on the way home, but as we move back into the seasons of abundance in our grocers—and the option to cook outside—it’s time to embrace the home- made! Trade o the convenience factor for the rewards of doing it yourself and being able to say, “I made this!”    Let’s start with making your own condiments. In “Dressed for Success” on page 90, Christopher St. Onge presents unique flavour variations on all the basics—mustard, ketchup, mayo, vinaigrette and salsa—plus several ideas for how to incorporate them into dishes all summer long. Each one is a great addition to your pantry and will have your guests asking, “Where did you buy that?”    Who deserves a homemade feast more than Mom and Dad? We’ve flipped the usual Mother’s Day Brunch and Father’s Day BBQ in “Twists on Tradition” on page 104, with flavour- ful menu options for both. Dessert is probably the course where we most often opt for something store-bought— “Why make it, when you can buy it?” James Chatto and Amy Rosen chal- lenge that perception in “Sweet & Simple” on page 98 with easy-to-make

seasonal desserts that each feature an after-dinner spirit in the recipe and also served alongside. Spending the evening together preparing dinner for two is a romantic notion that definitely doesn’t come pre-packaged at the store. In “Dining at Twilight” on page 78 we have just the menu to celebrate Summer Solstice (June 20) and the longest day of the year.    On the drinks side, you can’t beat the convenience of ready-to-drink options like coolers and ciders, so we haven’t ignored those; instead we have paired them with delicious dinners that can be prepared in a flash for last-minute entertaining. Check out “Pop Up Suppers” on page 113 for four easy dinner party ideas. When you have a little more time, consider mak- ing any of the wine cocktails in “Fruits of the Vine” on page 84. From rosé to sparkling to sweet, these drinks go beyond sangria and spritzers and make for refreshing summer libations that are well worth the e ort.    And finally, if someone you know missed this issue, or you prefer to store your issues electronically, the digital edition of this magazine will be available for iOS and Android devices May 11. Visit foodanddrink.ca/fddigital for more information,    Enjoy the season, and be sure to let us know how your homemade creations turned out!

PORTRAIT BY STACEY BRANDFORD

FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER

2016

The spectacular, pomegranate red blooms of the Fire Light® Hydrangea will outperform even the toughest competition. Visit us at provenwinners-shrubs.com.

SIP PRETTY.

Shake up your dinner party with this Pink Ginger Kicker recipe. Just mix our PC ® Black Label Ginger Pink Lemonade Sparkling Beverage with raspberries, gin, vodka and a thinly sliced lemon for a cocktail with a refreshing flavour.

Pink Ginger Kicker

INGREDIENTS

1 bottle PC ® Black Label (750 mL) Ginger Pink Lemonade Sparkling Beverage, chilled

Half

lemon, thinly sliced

cup each gin and vodka (75 mL)

½ cup (125 mL)

raspberries

instructions

Combine sparkling beverage, lemon, gin, vodka and raspberries in pitcher; stir gently. Pour into ice-filled glasses.

Find more recipes at pc.ca/blacklabel

All trademarks & logos are trademarks of Loblaws Inc. ©2016 Loblaws Inc. All rights reserved.

Superb quality. Distinctive character. Exceptional value. The finely crafted wines in our Essentials Collection make exploring the world of wine easy. View the entire collection of 130 proven favourites, handpicked by our experts. Always available. vintages.com/essentials.

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Great with popcorn or shrimp tempura LOUIS ROEDERER BRUT PREMIER CHAMPAGNE AC, Champagne, France 268771 750 mL

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Great with charcuterie and olives MALIVOIRE LADYBUG ROSÉ VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario 559088 750 mL $15.95 Medium-bodied & Dry Great with grilled chicken KENDALL-JACKSON VINTNER’S RESERVE CHARDONNAY California 369686 750 mL $19.95 Full-bodied & Rich Great with raw oysters HENRI BOURGEOIS LES BARONNES SANCERRE AC, Loire, France 542548 750 mL $24.95 Aromatic & Flavourful

Outstanding Classic

Unreserved Flavour

Prices subject to change without notice. Available in Vintages locations at select LCBO stores.

Join 61 winemakers from around the world as they gather in Niagara for a weekend of wine and culinary showcase events. Explore up to 158 wines from 9 countries at the Cool Chardonnay World Tour, or opt for more intimate tastings and seminars in cellars and vineyards across wine country. This year, Chardonnay has invited some other cool characters: look for Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc and Gamay at select events. THIS JULY, THEWORLD COMES TONIAGARA TO CELEBRATE CHARDONNAY.

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A SPLASH OF RUM BY HEATHER TRIM  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

THE PROOF IS IN THE FLAVOUR WHEN YOU COOK WITH RUM.

Whether dark, gold, light or even spiced and flavoured, rum is a go-to spirit for many popular summer cocktails like a Mojito, Planters Punch or Daiquiri. It’s distilled from sugar cane juice or sugar cane by-products such as molasses, then often aged in barrels, giving rum many subtle taste nuances.     With so many rums to choose from, where do you even begin when it comes time to purchase? As a general rule, the lighter the colour of rum, the milder the flavour profile. For our Japanese-Inspired Rum Marinade, if you’re looking for a tropical vibe, choose coconut- or mango-flavoured rum. It’s ideal for shrimp or chicken. The spiced or dark rum, with its deeper more complex flavour, works best with chicken or pork. As for the vintage or premium aged rums—enjoy neat or over ice.     As much of the world’s rum is produced in warmer climes, you’ll often detect notes of spice (nutmeg, cloves or cinnamon) as well as vanilla, tropical fruit or caramel. Once you’ve marinated and grilled your food, pair with the Tropical Fruit Salad on page 149 and you’ll be hooked. Likely there’s already a bottle of rum in your bar, but the sky’s the limit when it comes to rum, so start exploring.

JAPANESE- INSPIRED RUM MARINADE recipe on page 148

FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2016 19

Naturally Flavoured Club Soda with a HINT of Lemon and Lime. Refreshingly Unsweetened and Low Sodium.

Join the Club!

*Trademark of Canada Dry Mott’s Inc.

WHAT’S NEW COPY BY JULIA AITKEN  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

A WORLD OF NEW PRODUCTS AT THE LCBO AND VINTAGES.

Château la Tour de l’Évêque Rosé VINTAGES 319392, $18.95 Pouring a pretty rosé is a lovely way to welcome warmer weather. This pink wine from Provence comes from one of the region’s most respected rosé producers. It’s bone-dry and shows lively strawberry notes with an intriguing touch of white pepper. A lovely aperitif, it’s also wonderfully ver- satile; think pâté, smoked salmon, grilled pork or lemon-grass chicken. LAVIE EN ROSE

PRECIOUS GEM Star of Bombay LCBO 446526, $49.95 The original Star of Bombay is a stunning 182-carat sapphire housed in the Smithsonian. Its namesake—a higher-strength variant of the popu- lar Bombay Sapphire gin—is just as memorable. Bergamot orange peel and fragrant ambrette seed added to the classic botanicals give the pre- mium gin a richer aroma and more intense flavour.

GOLDEN STATE BREW

Lagunitas IPA LCBO 433516, 6 pk, $15.05

Make room in your fridge for one of the best-selling craft beers in the U.S. Introduced in 1995, it’s a well-rounded IPA from California brewer Lagunitas. The beer combines no fewer than 43 hop varietals and 65 types of malt, while a touch of caramel malt barley smooths out the tang of hops.

FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2016 21

WHAT ’ S NEW

SUPERB WITH SEAFOOD McGuigan Black Label Pinot Grigio LCBO 441576, $10.95 Grill up a feast of lobster, then raise a glass to the start of barbecue season with this fresh, crisp white from a renowned South Eastern Australia winery. You’ll love its aromas of pear and passion fruit, followed by refreshing flavours of pear and green apple, and a clean, citrus finish. In all: classic Pinot Grigio.

Veuve Ambal Crémant de Bourgogne Grande Cuvée Brut LCBO 429688, $17.55 Whatever summer celebrations you have planned, this award-win- ner fits the bill. The bubbly, a Pinot Noir-Chardonnay blend, garnered silver at last year’s Effervescents du Monde competition, which rates the world’s best sparklers. Look for a flute of fine bubbles with flavours of brioche, butter and citrus—perfect as an aperitif or with a creamy chicken dish. PERFECT FOR PARTIES

WORTH FLIPPING FOR 13th Street Burger Blend VQA LCBO 419945, $14.95 When 13th Street Winery first launched its Burger Blend back in the 1990s, the wine was a combination of many different reds. This latest version com- bines just two varietals: Gamay Noir and Pinot Noir. The result is a fruity red berry mix with good acidity that goes perfectly with burgers—or any other red meat off the grill.

22  FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2016

Apple Cranberry Crisp | 11 g of fibre

Chicken Parmesan | 5 g of fibre

Good things come from

Ultimate Burger | 11 g of fibre

allbran.ca/recipes

/allbranca

*© 2016, Trademark of Kellogg Company used under licence by Kellogg Canada Inc.

WHAT ’ S NEW

SUMMER MADE SIMPLE

Georgian Bay Gin Smash  LCBO 447540, 473 mL, $2.95

Trendsetters predict 2016 will be the year of the gin-based cocktail. Right on target is this ready-to-drink cocktail, from the creators of Ontario craft spirit Georgian Bay Gin. Combining crisply aromatic gin with citrus flavours and a touch of mint, it streamlines summer entertaining, whether you’re at the cottage or in your own backyard.

Columbia Crest H3 Cabernet Sauvignon VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 210047, $19.95 Washington State wines are hot right now, and this new addition to the VINTAGES ESSENTIALS collection has beenmassively successful. Columbia Crest’s food-friendly Cabernet Sauvignon is made from grapes grown in the state’s Horse Heaven Hills (hence the H3). Team it with grilled red meat, particularly lamb kebabs and steak. WEST COAST RED

TASTE OF SUNSHINE Luxardo Aperitivo LCBO 439455, $17.95

This stunning aperitif is ideal for summer entertaining. A blend of herbs, roots and citrus, Luxardo has a sunny orange aroma and flavour, but with a backbone of fresh acidity. Serve neat or on the rocks, with soda or—as they do in Italy—in an elegant flute topped up with Prosecco.

24  FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2016

THE WORLD’S FINEST STEAKS. DELIVERED TO YOUR DOORSTEP.

Fuego Diablo premium steaks are the ultimate prize. And in the hands of a passionate griller, they redefne inspired living.

From our Certifed Prime Black Angus Beef raised in the golden prairies of Alberta and the ranch lands of Texas and Colorado to our coveted Australian and Japanese Wagyu, we travel to the ends of the earth to deliver beef worthy of the name Fuego Diablo.

Expertly aged and hand trimmed, each Fuego Diablo steak is then individually vacuum-sealed and fash frozen. Steaks are packed into a reusable cooler, nestled in dry ice and shipped across Canada in our distinctive black packaging.

For those who enjoy a world-class steak, there is no greater gift to receive. An indulgent experience once available only in the world’s fnest steakhouses is now yours to enjoy at home, or yours to gift to the grilling afcionados in your life.

fuegodiablo.com

MUST HAVES BY BRENDA MORRISON • PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

WITH SO MANY CELEBRATIONS THIS TIME OF YEAR; FAVOURITE GIFTS THE FOOD & DRINK TEAM CAN’T WAIT TO GIVE!

GIFT OF PRECISION Food Editor Lucy Waverman considers the digital Super-Fast Thermapen ($104.99) the ultimate food thermometer because it reads the temperature swiftly and accurately. It’s a staple in her own kitchen. For a wedding present, pair it with a gift certificate for premium steaks from Fuego Diablo (fuegodiablo.com) for their first BBQ as a married couple. Available at Ontario Gas BBQ in Vaughan: 800•387•7757, bbqs.com.

RING THEM UP Known for her impeccable taste, Art Director Karen Lim loves these gorgeous Abbeyhorn Napkin Rings ($22.50 each). They make an impressive housewarming gift for anyone’s new abode, whether modern or traditional, instantly dressing up any place setting. Available at Hopson Grace in Toronto: 416•926•1120, hopsongrace.com.

NEW TOOLS FOR DAD For Father’s Day, Senior Editor James Chatto recommends this five-piece Aerating Wine Funnel set ($59.99), featuring a fine strainer to filter out sediment. Available at Rosehill Wine Cellars (Mississauga: 1•888•253•6807, rosehillwinecellars.com). To really impress dad, give with a decanter and a bottle of vintage port or a fine young Chianti.

GRILL FOR GRADS For any university graduate or space-challenged new condo dweller, a tabletop grill is a great introduction to outdoor grilling. Food stylist Christopher St. Onge loves how tabletop grilling allows both cooking and conversation to happen simultaneously. This stylish Eva Solo Table Grill ($295) is available at Bergo Designs in Toronto: 416•861•1821, bergo.ca.

FRESH IDEA For hostess gifts, Editor Jody Dunn loves to give everyday essentials that can be used and enjoyed, rather than being stored away or saved for special occasions. Tea towels are always a welcome gift, whether tied together in a colourful stack or used to wrap gourmet goodies or a bottle of wine. These towels by Rain Goose Textiles ($16 each) are available at orangefish.ca.

VERSATILE STYLE Hosting a Mother’s Day brunch, Brenda Morrison (writer of this column) will decorate each place setting with a Swayzak ($14.50) air plant container. When her mom takes one home afterwards, she’ll appreciate the versatile appeal of the ceramic container, using it to also display fresh blooms and small succulents, plus showcasing it in different rooms throughout her home. Available at Room 2046 in Toronto: 647•348•2046, room2046.com.

SWEET SENTIMENT Surprise! Prop stylist Catherine MacFadyen loves to celebrate the birthdays of friends and colleagues with cookies instead of cake—and she’s truly smitten with Mary Macleod’s Shortbread (Toronto, 416•461•4576, marymacleod.ca), with gift packages in sizes and styles to suit all tastes.

FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2016 27

TREND SPOTTING BY KAT TANCOCK  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR FROM THE WORLD OF FOOD AND DRINK.

Incorporating evergreen needles and leaves in food and drink is far from new—First Nations have long traditions of using them in teas and other recipes—but of late, we’ve been seeing them prepared in all sorts of fresh ways. Think Douglas fir truffles at Toronto’s SOMA Chocolatemaker, spruce bud ice cream at Vancouver’s Earnest, the Cedar Sour cocktail at Tofino’s Wolf in the Fog, or mussels smoked in pine needles at To- ronto’s Boralia. Here are some suggestions on us- ing them at home, too.

FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2016 29

TREND SPOTT ING

Common edible tree species in Ontario EVERGREENS

Look for these trees in forests—and on menus—near you. All can be harvested throughout the year except spruce tips, which appear during a two-week window between late April and early June (though they do keep well in a container in the refrigerator for up to two months).

White pine Steep needles for a vitamin C–rich tea to drink or for making a pine simple syrup for cocktails.

White cedar Traditionally used fresh by local indigenous peoples to make tea, the leaves can also be dried.

Balsam fir Wrap needles or branches around whole fish, then wrap again in foil be­ fore cooking on the grill or a campfire.

White spruce Fresh tips have a lemon-like fla­ vour and can be chopped finely for use in fish dishes or salads.

bitters and cocktails Notes of spruce, fir and pine add a fresh spin to classic cocktails, Michelle says, and different trees—and seasons— will vary the taste.

Whether you start with an infused spirit or an ever­ green-flavoured Simple Syrup (recipe page 164) or an appropriate type of bitters like the seasonal Apothecary Bitters Elder Growth ($25, thecraftybartender.com), made with Douglas fir tips, there are numerous applications for tree flavours. Michelle suggests using infused gin or vodka in a basic Martini, garnished with a length of lemon zest, and she is a fan of using these flavours in a classic Sour, be it whisky, vodka or

[ HOW TO USE ]

Spirit Infusions Turn your pine needles or spruce tips into an infusion to liven up cocktails, suggests Michelle Hunt of the Martini Club. Add about 1 cup (250 mL) of fresh-picked greenery, branches removed, to 750 mL of vodka, Canadian or Irish whisky or a standard gin, and infuse, tasting daily, then straining when ready. “In about a week’s time you’ll have a beautiful-tasting spirit.”

gin. Layer if you like, she adds—like a Whisky Sour made with fir-infused whisky and fir bitters, too.

30  FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2016

TREND SPOTT ING

PINE SHOOT-INFUSED HONEY [ WHAT TO EAT ]

Master Forager

Chef Michael Stadtländer of Eigensinn Farm, who is planning a pine-centric 12-course menu for later this year, originally created this honey (recipe page 164) for us to sweeten a blackcurrant sorbet in our Autumn 2013 issue, but it has further applications, too. He recommends using it to glaze chicken; or, reduced with Creemore Springs Premium Lager ( LCBO 6445, 473 mL, $2.95), to glaze ham; or combining with Dillon’s Gin 22 Unfiltered ( LCBO 358556, $39.85) to flavour ice cream. Pine-shoot honey would also make a good addition to a salad dressing over shaved root vegetables, notes Food Editor Lucy Waverman, or in the Pine Nut Tarts above (recipe page 164), a take on Lucy’s Butter Pecan Tarts from a previous issue, with the honey replacing maple syrup and pine nuts replacing pecans.

The leaves and needles of evergreens are among the easiest ingredients to forage, Forbes says. Be sure to avoid trees exposed to pollutants— think commercial Christmas trees, hydro corridors and roadsides—and to receive permission to harvest. Also beware of eastern yew and red cedar, both of which are toxic.    Unlike with many wild foods, there is virtually no danger of overharvesting or harming the plant. “There’s an awful lot of needles on a tree,” says Forbes. “A place the size of [Toronto’s] High Park would probably keep the country in spruce tips all year.” JONATHAN FORBES shares tips on gathering tree ingredients for use in your kitchen.

Not up for foraging? Buy tree ingredients in a jar instead. Evergreen Preserved Products

Among the many dried and preserved foraged foods from Toronto’s Forbes Wild Foods (wildfoods.ca) are three tree-based products. Balsam Fir Jelly goes well with freshwater fish while Cedar Jelly pairs with salmon; both can also be used with lamb or game or served alongside cheese. Use jarred Spruce Tips like capers, or as a stuffing for freshwater fish.

32  FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2016

PORTRAIT OF JONATHAN FORBES BY RONALD TSANG

RAVENSWOOD LODI

LIMITED RELEASE April 2 in Vintages

FromMay 29 –June 18, 2016

*

Made with Ravenswood Zinfandel

Available on select bottles of Ravenswood Vintners Blend Zinfandel. *Limited time offer while quantities last.

Please enjoy our wines responsibly.

THE $17 SOLUTION

The resourceful buyers at Vintages remove the guesswork from your entertaining equation with two elegant reds whose provenance, quality and character make them superb values at this price. vintages.com/17

Featured products may not be available in all V intages locations. Visit vintages.com for availability and store locations. Prices subject to change

23606

ADVERTISING FEATURE

TRADITIONAL TASTES This delicious, highly rated Tempranillo-based red blend comes from a family-owned winery established126 years ago.

PATA NEGRA RESERVA 2010 DOCa Rioja, Spain (Marqués de Carrion) Brambly, with black and red fruit flavours. Serve with grilled lamb steaks. Full-bodied & Smooth 443804 (XD) 750 mL 2 JUST $17 95 points ( decanter.com )

JEWEL IN THE CROWN Crafted in the Andean foothills from grapes grown on 40+-year- old vines, this Malbec takes Argentina’s signature red to new heights. LAMADRID SINGLE VINEYARD RESERVA MALBEC 2012 Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina (Fincas de Agrelo) Sophisticated and spicy with ripe berry and dark chocolate flavours. Serve with beef burgers. Full-bodied & Smooth 234492 (XD) 750 mL 2 JUST $17 94 points ( jamessuckling.com )

Life’s a picnic. Grill on.

It’s just that good.

ontariopork.com/recipes

Parmesan Sage Pork Burgers

PreparationTime: 15 minutes CookingTime: 20 minutes Servings: Serves 4

Ingredients

• 1 lbs (500 g) lean ground Ontario pork • 1/2 cup (125 mL) milk • 1/4 cup (60 mL) dry breadcrumbs • 3 Tbsp (45 mL) grated Parmesan cheese • 3 Tbsp (45 mL) chopped fresh sage, or 1 Tbsp (15 mL) dry crumbled sage • 2 Tbsp (30 mL) garlic, minced • 1-1/2 tsp (7 mL) ground black pepper • 1 tsp (5 mL) salt • 4 Kaiser or hamburger buns

Cooking Instructions

1. Combine all ingredients (except the buns) in a large mixing bowl. Mix thoroughly with a fork. Form into 4 equally-sized burgers, about 4-inches (10 cm) wide. Cover and refrigerate if not grilling immediately. 2. Pre-heat BBQ on high for 10 minutes then reduce to medium; lightly oil grill bars with vegetable oil. Grill burgers on both sides, turning once, until completely cooked with no trace of pink, about 15-20 minutes. 3. Serve on buns with the usual burger toppings: bacon, mustard, mayo, tomatoes, onions, lettuce. Or try something a little more daring: grilled Portobello mushrooms, soft goat cheese, roasted peppers, arugula leaves or black olive tapenade.

Tip: All ground meat MUST be cooked to well done.

Per serving: 465 calories; 31.5 g protein; 23.6 g fat (9.1 g saturated fat); 29 g carbohydrate; 87.4 mg cholesterol; 1.4 g bre; 508 mg sodium; 509 mg potassium

Enjoy a

* w h i l e q u a n t i t i e s l a s t a t p a r t i c i p a t i n g l o c a t i o n s sample of Brookside Dark Chocolate at the LCBO MAY 2 to MAY 22 * FREE

Now that Sawmill Creek and Brookside Dark Chocolate have found a way to make evenings twice as nice, you’ll be wishing they were twice as long.

Please drink responsibly.

Brookside Dark Chocolate is available to purchase at national retailers.

FOOD  FLAVOURS Variations Radishes have long lent their snap and peppery bite to the salad bowl, but, from roasts to risottos, the pretty roots can do much more. BY JULIA AITKEN  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE ON THE RADISH

Roast Maple RADISHES recipe on page 160

FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2016 39

FLAVOURS  VARIATIONS ON THE RADISH

TABLE RADISHES ➤ Cherry Belle: bright red and spherical with crisp white pep- pery flesh ➤ Easter Egg: sports a rainbow of colours—pink, white, purple, red—with mild, white flesh ➤ French Breakfast: usually long and slim (some varieties are spherical), with bright fuchsia skin fading to white at the root. Has very crisp white flesh with a mildly spicy flavour. ➤ Scarlet Globe: bright red and spherical, larger than Cherry Belle but with a similar texture and taste ➤ Snow Belle: similar in size and shape to Cherry Belle but snowy white throughout and very crisp and spicy HEIRLOOM RADISHES ➤ Cincinnati (red) and Icicle (white): resemble long, slim car- rots with a peppery bite ➤ Watermelon: turnip-like with white skin and magenta flesh Rooting Around While radishes are available all year, some are at their best as Ontario’s summer kicks off. Choose from table radishes—the mostly spheri- cal salad root plants—or more gnarly heirlooms. Buy firm radishes with no blemishes. Tops, if attached, should be bright green and fresh-looking. Store radishes in the crisper for about a week (the peppery tops—try them in a stir- fry or sauté—last only a couple of days). Always prep radishes just before using, as the flavour diminishes once they’re cut. Check out our recipes or try these snappy radish fixes: ➤ serve table radishes with softened unsalted butter and coarse salt for dipping ➤ stir shredded radishes into soft goat cheese, along with chopped chives and dill ➤ dip table radishes in Sriracha-spiked mayo ➤ add finely chopped radishes to your favourite tzatziki and a mild, peppery flavour Radish RX

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FLAVOURS  VARIATIONS ON THE RADISH

Tarragon-Poached CHICKEN WITH SPRING ROOTS recipe on page 160

FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2016 41

FLAVOURS  VARIATIONS ON THE RADISH

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Parmesan cheese shavings to serve (optional) 1 In a medium saucepan, combine stock, leek trimmings, thyme stems, lemon rind and bay leaves. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, covered, for 20 minutes. 2 Strain stock, reserving stock but discard- ing flavourings. Return stock to saucepan and keep warm over low heat. 3 In a large saucepan, melt 2 tbsp (30 mL) but- ter over medium heat. Add sliced leek. Cook, stirring often, until leek is softened but not browned, 3 to 5 minutes. 4 Stir in garlic. Cook, stirring, until fragrant but not browned, about 1 minute. 5 Add rice and cook, stirring, until edges of rice are translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. 6 Add wine and bring to a boil over medium- high heat, stirring until most of wine has been absorbed by rice. 7 Add 3 cups (750 mL) warm stock and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and simmer, stirring occasionally, until most of stock has

Choose any red or purple table radishes to add colour and crunch to this creamy risotto. If the radish tops are fresh and perky, wash and dry them to add to the risotto, or substi- tute baby spinach for some or all the radish tops. If using Cincinnati radishes, which take slightly longer to cook, use 6 large ones and add them with the sliced leeks. 7 cups (1.75 L) homemade or low-sodium chicken stock 1 small leek (white parts only), thinly sliced and trimmings reserved 2 tsp (10 mL) finely chopped fresh thyme leaves, stems reserved 1 strip lemon rind, 2 inches (5 cm) 2 bay leaves 3 tbsp (45 mL) unsalted butter, divided 2 cloves garlic, minced 1½ cups (375 mL) arborio rice 1 cup (250 mL) Pinot Grigio or other dry white wine 1½ cups (375 mL) ½ inch (1 cm) cubes radishes (about 15; see note above) 2 cups (500 mL) packed fresh radish tops (tough stems removed) or baby spinach leaves ½ cup (125 mL) crumbled soft goat cheese ½ tsp (2 mL) finely grated lemon zest

been absorbed by rice, about 10 minutes. Stir in cubed radishes. 8 Gradually stir in remaining stock, ½ cup (125 mL) at a time, stirring often and allow- ing rice to absorb stock before adding more, until most of stock has been added (you may not need all of it) and rice is al dente, 10 to 15 minutes. 9 Add radish tops or spinach and cook, stir- ring occasionally, until wilted slightly, 1 to 2 minutes. 10  Add goat cheese, reserved thyme leaves, lemon zest and remaining butter, stirring un- til butter melts. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve with Parmesan cheese shavings, if you wish. Serves 4 as a main course; 6 as an appetizer

WHAT TO SERVE Ogier Cotes du Ventoux Rosé LCBO 134916, $12.95 Creekside Sauvignon Blanc VQA LCBO 620724, $13.95 Early S ummer RISOTTO WITH RADISHES & GOAT CHEESE

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PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY * Trademarks,usedunder licensebyCanadaDryMott’s Inc.

FLAVOURS  VARIATIONS ON THE RADISH

While any radish works for this simple salad, a mix of prettily pink Watermelon radishes and ei- ther Easter Egg or Cherry Belle radishes makes a particularly stunning presentation. Prepare the salad just before serving (radishes tend to weep if prepped ahead) and serve as an appetizer or an accompaniment to grilled lamb or chicken. Radish Carpaccio WITH FETA & PUMPKIN SEEDS 1 tsp (5 mL) liquid honey ½ tsp (2 mL) ground cumin Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 large watermelon radish, peeled, 7 oz (210 g) 6 medium Easter Egg or Cherry Belle radishes, scrubbed and trimmed ¼ cup (60 mL) finely crumbled feta 2 tbsp (30 mL) roasted, salted pumpkin seeds Small fresh mint leaves for garnish 1 In a small bowl, whisk together olive oil, orange juice, honey, cumin, salt and pepper to taste. Set aside. 2 With a mandolin slicer (or a very sharp knife and a steady hand), cut rad- ishes crosswise into very thin slices. (If watermelon radish is too large to fit man- dolin, cut it in half before slicing.) 3 Arrange radish slices, more or less in a single layer, on a large serving platter or 4 individual plates. Drizzle with orange- cumin dressing. 4 Sprinkle with feta and pumpkin seeds. Scat- ter with mint leaves. Serve at once. Serves 4 3 tbsp (45 mL) extra virgin olive oil 1 tbsp (15 mL) fresh orange juice

WHAT TO SERVE Izumi Nama Cho Junmai Sake VINTAGES 260174, 300 mL, $12.80 Hop City Lawn Chair Classic Weisse LCBO 380535, 473 mL, $2.90

44  FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2016

EVERLASTING TRENDS montreal toronto vaughan mississauga quebec brossard detroit ciot.com MARBLE STONE GRANITE ONYX CERAMIC QUARTZ MOSAIC

2016 The life of any garden party all season long, SpilledWine® Weigela drenches your landscape in rich color and dark foliage. Visit us at provenwinners-shrubs.com.

DRINK  ENTERTAINING

WHAT BETTER WAY TO CONTRIBUTE TO A SUMMER PARTY—BRING ALONG AN ARTISANAL SPIRIT WITH A MATCHING NIBBLE, AND PREP A COCKTAIL THAT MAKES THE MOST OF THE COMBO. Summer ocials BY ERIC VELLEND  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

TORONTO COCKTAIL +

Roasted Cherry Tomato & Blue Cheese Crostini Honouring what was once Canada’s largest dis- tillery, Gooderham & Worts Canadian Whisky ( LCBO 428417, $44.90) has a dry, spicy finish that works well in a classic Toronto Cocktail. Essentially an Old Fashioned embittered with a splash of Fernet-Branca, it’s a bold drink paired with a bold crostini topped with rosemary- roasted tomatoes and piquant blue cheese. recipes on page 168

FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2016 47

ENTERTAINING  SUMMER SOCIALS

AUSTIN 35 +

ShrimpCakes with Dill Remoulade & Fennel Slaw DistilledinAustin,Texas,from100-per- cent corn, Tito’s Handmade Vodka ( LCBO 597559, $34.95) is smooth and citrusy, the ideal star for our refresh- ing Austin 35, a fun spin on the classic French 75. The drink’s lemony profile pairs perfectly with a plump shrimp cake topped with punchy remoulade sauce and crunchy fennel slaw. recipes on page 166

48  FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2016

Whatever the occasion, an LCBO gift card knows just what to say. Plus, all online gift card orders receive free shipping.

Scan QR code to order gift cards online Free shipping and handling on all online gift card orders. Offer valid April 25, 2016 to August 14, 2016. Purchase online at lcbo.com/giftcardsonline or at LCBO stores and select retailers. Gift cards are available in denominations between $25 and $500.

ENTERTAINING  SUMMER SOCIALS

RUM PINEAPPLE SWIZZLE +

Pineapple Bundles with Cilantro-Lime Dip Considering the depth and complexity of this Guyanese spirit, El Dorado 12-Year- Old Rum ( LCBO 60608, $39.90) is a rela- tive bargain. With flavours of banana cus- tard and baking spices, it’s superb paired with pineapple juice in a tropical swizzle. The pineapple theme continues with little prosciutto-bound bundles dipped into a spicy sauce of coconut milk and cilantro. recipes on pages 164 & 166

50  FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2016

ENTERTAINING  SUMMER SOCIALS

TEQUILA & TONIC +

Lettuce Cups with Strawberry-Feta Salad Aged in white oak barrels for six months, Tromba Reposado Tequila ( LCBO 360206, $59.95) is fruity and complex with a gen- tly smoky finish. Delicious neat, it’s a rev- elation in an icy Highball with tonic and lime. Enjoy it with a sweet and savoury salad of strawberries, cucumbers, feta and almonds cradled in tender Boston lettuce leaves. recipes on pages 166 & 168

52  FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2016

Change the way you see salad.

Renée’s Gourmet Dressing

Afford

to Retire

In Elliot Lake, your nest egg goes further. Offering the most affordable retirement lifestyle in Ontario, with rents from as little as $500. 00 per month , you can afford to do the things you have always wanted to in your retirement. Book your Discovery Tour, which includes: 1 Free Night (Second night at $30.00 + taxes) at the Hampton Inn Elliot Lake and enjoy a tour of the city and our properties.

Compare and Save!

For two bedroom apartments.

ELLIOT LAKE

$ 605

LONDON

$ 953

KITCHENER

$ 969

COLLINGWOOD

$ 982

OSHAWA

$ 1,049

OTTAWA

$ 1,159

1.800.461.4663 retireelliotlake.com

TORONTO

$ 1,269

Source: CMHC Rental Market Report Fall 2015

TRENDS OPEN CONCEPTS FO D TRENDS

GREAT FOR HEARTY COCKTAIL BITES OR A LIGHT LUNCH OR DINNER THESE OPEN FACE SANDWICHES PAIR BEAUTIFULLY WITH THE LCBO’S NEWEST WINES FOR SUMMER. RECIPES BY CHRISTOPHER ST. ONGE • MATCHES BY JAMES CHATTO PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA Open Concepts

Far East Fried Chicken

Sandwich recipe on page 151

TRAPICHE EXTRAVAGANZA WHITE BLEND LCBO 439851, $14.95

Here’s an intriguing Argen- tinian blend of elegant, aromatic Torrontes and ripe Chardonnay that works with this sandwich in a number of ways. The floral aromas complement the Asian spices in the sauce and slaw while the wine’s citrus and tropical fruit notes reach out to the vegetables. And its tangy acidity is just what’s needed to cut through the richness of fried chicken.

FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER

TRENDS  OPEN CONCEPTS

Pea & Mozzarella Sandwich recipe on page 150

RODNEY STRONG CHARLOTTE’S HOME SAUVIGNON BLANC LCBO 449207, $18.95 Green peas, mint and lemon make me think about Sauvignon Blanc, but I don’t want the wine to dominate the subtleties of the sandwich. This classic Sonoma version is dry and fresh but not too acidic or intense, full of aromatic citrus and melon flavours and a slight suggestion of pineapple. It’s also medium- bodied, with enough weight to welcome the creamy fior di latte cheese in the recipe.

56  FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2016

t h e o r i g i n a l

DISCOVER THE MAVERICK THAT CHANGED HISTORY.

Te history of Glenfiddich ® is full of pioneering moments, but none more impactful than starting the Single Malt scotch phenomenon in 1963. y not add Te Original to your collection today.

Available for a limited time only.

SKILFULLY CRAFTED. ENJOY RESPONSIBLY. Glenfiddich ® Single Malt Scotch Whisky is a registered trademark of William Grant & Sons Ltd. glenfiddich.ca

TRENDS  OPEN CONCEPTS

Queso & Chorizo Melt recipe on page 149

ANTAÑO RESERVA RIOJA 2009 LCBO 427369, $16.70

The big, punchy flavours of this melt need a muscular wine, and a mature Rioja fits the bill perfectly. The years of barrel- and bottle-aging have brought all its elements together. Sly acidity and subtle velvety tannins are deeply integrated into the smooth body, cloaked with intense flavours of black cherries, refreshing cranberry and hints of vanilla and leather from its 26 months in oak.

58  FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2016

VISIT THE UNILOCK OUTDOOR IDEA CENTER

SEE

An expansive display of Unilock products in a life-size outdoor setting.

TALK To knowledgeable staf on hand to help you select the best products for your home.

TAKE FREE samples of Unilock paver and wall products home with you.

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For more outdoor inspiration or a referral to a trusted Unilock Authorized Contractor, connect with us at Unilock.com or 1-800-UNILOCK.

TRENDS  OPEN CONCEPTS

M c MICHAEL COLLECTION CHARDONNAY VQA LCBO 456582, $14.95 (available mid-June)

Buttery lobster finds a soulmate in a mellow, unoaked Niagara Chardonnay made at Diamond Estates in honour of the 50th anniversary of the McMichael Canadian Art Collection. Malolactic fermentation has left the wine decidedly creamy and there’s plenty of peachy, appley fruit to balance the gentle blue cheese dressing on the sandwich. Fifty cents from every bottle sold goes to the McMichael Collection.

“Buffalo Wing” Lobster Sandwich recipe on page 149

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Feel the Bubbles Melt.

TRENDS  OPEN CONCEPTS

CAMPO VIEJO RIOJA TEMPRANILLO ROSE LCBO 175620, $11.80 Spanish rosés tend to offer the structure and strength to be serious contenders at the table and are particularly (and predictably) at home with Mediterranean flavours. This wine is no exception—dry but still layered with raspberry, cherry and floral aromas. It can handle the acidity in the chimichurri but finds true happiness alongside the piquillo peppers with their sweet, roasted flavour.

Smoky Cauliflower &

Piquillo Sandwich recipe on page 150

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TORONTO 218 Merton St. 416.479.4499 MISSISSAUGA 3105 Winston Churchill Blvd. 905.569.1101 RICHMOND HILL 10815 Bathurst St. 905.770.8742 BURLINGTON 29 Plains Rd. W. 905.681.3355 WATERLOO 330 Weber St., N. 519.747.3818 LONDON 314 Adelaide St., S. 519.685.0834 OTTAWA 1723 Carling Ave. 613.722.8795 CONTRACT SALES I.800.268.7328 ext. 258 Live Your Life, Outdoors

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