LCBO Food & Drink Early Summer 2017

A SPLASH OF GIN BY JULIA AITKEN  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE

THE PROOF IS IN THE FLAVOUR WHEN YOU COOK WITH GIN.

RHUBARB- JUNIPER PIE WITH GIN recipe on page 145

Gin has always been a good team player. Paired with a suggestion of vermouth in a classic Martini, combined with artisanal syrups in a craft cocktail or simply topped up with tonic, gin gets along fine with just about everything.     But, despite being a great mixer, gin doesn’t venture into the kitchen too often. Which is a shame be- cause the botanicals used in creating gin are all eminently food-friendly. Juniper berries are a constant but spices and citrus peel, angelica, licorice and saffron can all make an appearance in the distillation process.     Local distiller Dillon’s, of Beamsville, Ont., uses no fewer than 22 botanicals in its aptly named Dillon’s Unfiltered Gin 22 ( LCBO 358556, $39.85). Made from Niagara grapes, then vapour distilled, the gin is bottled unfiltered to preserve its full flavour (so, although it looks crystal clear in the bottle, expect a cloudiness once you add ice).     Dillon’s is an intensely floral gin, heady with juniper and with notes of citrus and spice. All of which made us think… rhubarb. So a springtime pie was in order, with gin making an appearance in both crust (for super-flaky pastry) and filling, where it teams with juniper, coriander and orange zest to echo the gin’s warm flavours. As we said, a good mixer.

FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2017 15

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