LCBO Food & Drink Early Summer 2024

SNOW CRAB TARTINES WITH SALTY LEMON VINAIGRETTE Sweet snow crab is a Canadian delicacy from the St. Lawrence River and East Coast, and it’s worth seeking out at its peak fresh ness; it comes into season as early as April and through May. (It can also be found frozen all year-round.) Enjoy it simply with ingre dients that are favourable to the sweetness of the crab. The sauce here is so good with crab, but can also be used for other seafood and fish, too. 1/4 tsp (1 mL) granulated sugar (optional) 5 tbsp (75 mL) canola or grapeseed oil 5 oz (140 g) snow crab, drained and patted dry 2 slices fresh brioche or country loaf Mayonnaise, preferably Kewpie 1/2 bunch watercress, thoroughly washed and trimmed 1. Slice one lemon open; remove and dis card any seeds. Finely chop lemon and place chopped peel and flesh along with any juices in a small saucepan. Squeeze 4 tsp (20 mL) juice from remaining lemon and set any remaining aside for another use. Stir lemon juice, salt and 2 tsp (10 mL) sugar into chopped lemon in pan. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce to medium-low and gently heat and stir occasionally until softened, 10 minutes. Remove from heat. Let stand for at least 4 hours. If making ahead, store in the fridge in a sealed container for up to 2 weeks. 2. Whirl 2 tbsp (30 mL) lemon mixture in a food processor along with vinegar and 1/4 tsp (1 mL) sugar, if desired. Slowly drizzle in oil until mixed and creamy. 3. Shred or coarsely chop snow crab into bite size pieces and place in a medium-size glass bowl. Stir in 3 tbsp (45 mL) dressing. Taste and add more if you like. Reserve remaining lemon mixture for another use, like adding to salad dressings or chicken and tuna salads. 4. Generously spread bread with mayo. Top with watercress. Spoon and spread crab over top. Serve as is for a delicious lunch for two or slice each into four to five slices to make eight to 10 delectable appetizers. Makes 2 open-face sandwiches (tartines) or 10 appetizer bites 2 lemons 2 tsp (10 mL) kosher salt 2 tsp (10 mL) granulated sugar 2 tbsp (30 mL) white-wine vinegar

4. Heat 1 inch (2.5 cm) of oil in a large, heavy duty pot to 350°F (177°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment and place a cooling rack on top. 5. While oil is heating, cut 14 4-inch (10-cm) parchment squares. Spoon dough into a piping bag fitted with a large star tip. Pipe a 3-inch (8-cm) ring onto each square. Work ing in batches, carefully place parchment squares, pastry side down, in oil. Do not overcrowd pot and adjust heat to maintain temperature. Using tongs, lift parchment out of oil and discard. Paper should release easily from pastry—if it sticks, wait a few more seconds. Cook crullers until golden and puffed, about 3 minutes per side. Remove to prepared baking sheet. Cool completely before glazing. 6. For the glaze, stir icing sugar with lemon and orange juices and lemon zest until smooth. Dip crullers, one at a time, in glaze to cover top and return to cooling rack to dry. CANADIAN SEAFOOD SOURCES Canadian waters are home to an abundance of delicacies with May and June being a fantastic time to seize the day and load up on many of the most coveted catches while they’re in their prime. It’s also a great time for snagging seasonal offerings during their brief, yet memorable appearance—hello, fresh scallops and spot prawns! So, get to know your local and reputable fish monger (if you don’t already). While working on this story, I leaned on Dave Rihbany, owner of Dave’s Fish Market in Burlington (davesfishmarket.com), for his wealth of information and a steady supply. Pop into his shop, and he’ll guide your seafood journey while regaling you with big fish tales of cross-country trips, on which he connects with many of his suppliers. If that location casts too far outside your net, look for ingredients at T&T Supermarket (tntsupermarket.com) and Hooked (hookedinc.ca) in Toronto, or order through wildfork.ca in the GTA or get delivery from organicocean.com. Makes 14 crullers Fishing for Complements from page 49

CITRUS-GLAZED CRULLERS Choux pastry, which is used to make cream puffs, also creates a light, airy donut, known in some circles as a French cruller. Using a star shaped piping tip creates extra crevices and surface area to catch the sweet, tangy citrus glaze. They make the most wonderful parting gift at brunch.

CRULLERS 1 cup (250 mL) water 1/4 cup (60 mL) unsalted butter 1 tbsp (15 mL) sugar 1/4 tsp (1 mL) salt 1 1/4 cups (310 mL) all-purpose flour 4 eggs, at room temperature Canola oil for frying CITRUS GLAZE 3 cups (750 mL) icing sugar, sifted 3 tbsp (45 mL) fresh lemon juice 3 tbsp (45 mL) fresh orange juice 1 tsp (5 mL) finely grated lemon zest

1. For the crullers, place water, butter, sugar and salt in a large pot over high heat. Bring to a boil, remove from heat and add flour. Using a wooden spoon, stir mixture until it forms a thick paste with no flour streaks. Return mix ture to heat and stir quickly to cook off excess moisture, about 1 minute.

2. Transfer mixture to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with paddle. Let cool 10 minutes.

3. On high speed, beat in eggs one at a time, waiting until mixture comes back together before adding in next egg. Mixture should be glossy and smooth with no lumps. Turn off mixer.

118 FOOD & DRINK EARLY SUMMER 2024