LCBO Food and Drink Holiday 2015

HOLIDAY 2015

WELCOME TO digital

You’ll never have to miss another issue.

It’s finally here! We are very excited for you to have Food & Dr ink magazine’s first digital edition in your hands. We knowOntarians love Food & Drink and now you can enjoy our publication the way you want it: in print, on the web or on your iOS device. Enjoy it, share it with family and friends, and let us know what you think: foodanddrink@lcbo.com

SNEAK PEEK

We prepared a short video showcasing some highlights of this issue and some exclusive behind-the- scenes information on how the issue was created.

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WHERE IT ALL COMES TOGETHER. Explore over 70 new products, recipes and ideas in the PC ® Insiders Collection TM online experience and customize a personal shopping list for your next holiday get-together. Make it your own at pc.ca/Insiders

S A LVATOR E F E R R AG AMO

WHAT ’ S NEXT. Salvatore Ferragamo. Exclusively at Yorkdale Shopping Centre. 2 5 0 S TO R E S | WO R L D - C L A S S FA S H I O N & LU X U RY L A B E L S | YO R K DA L E . C O M

GOLD STANDARD

A golden filigreed label makes this classic Champagne a feast for the eyes as well as the taste buds. Piper-Heidsieck Rare Vintage Champagne 2002 in gift pack with two flutes 423582 750 mL $299.95

Elegant offerings brimming with quality, passion and exceptional taste. This is just a glimpse of the carefully curated collection of limited-quantity wines and spirits available in Vintages this holiday season. vintages.com/gifts

LOCAL TRIO

SUPER TUSCAN

From one of Ontario’s finest producers, these beauties make for an exceptional gift. Henry of Pelham Icewine Trio 94110 3 x 200 mL $99.95

A collector’s favourite, this top-scoring blend has been a sought-after icon since it revitalized Tuscan winemaking in the 1970s. Tignanello 986786 750 mL $102.95

Available in Vintages at many LCBO stores. Prices subject to change without notice. Shop early for best selection.

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F I N A L T O U C H ®

L’GRAND CONUNDRUM

A E R A T O R D E C A N T E R S E T

Pouring in or out, the curves of this decanter gently disperses the wine providing superior aeration & oxygenation.

This unique design helps to enhance both favour & aroma. Elegant brushed stainless steel base with large spout for easy flling & smooth pouring. Inlcudes 4 red wine glasses with stylish curves that provide comfortable fnger placement.

CONUNDRUM SERIES

T H E M O R E A E R A T I O N T H E B E T T E R

http://goo.gl/7gmHRT

For more information & where to buy

WhiteWine Glass

RedWine Glass

Aerator Decanter

L’Grand Aerator Decanter

On-The-Bottle

9 oz (266ml)

16 oz (473ml)

12.7oz (375ml)

25.4 oz (750ml)

Wine Aerator

F I N A L T O U C H ®

ON THE ROCK GLASS

W H I S K E Y D E C A N T E R S E T

Traditionally scent, temperature, and taste were the keys to drinking scotch or whiskey. This decanter set brings two new elements, chilling & motion, to the tasting experience.

The elegant design of the glass allows you to roll the stainless steel chilling ball around the ROCK peak with a simple & easy motion. The rolling motion of the chilling ball will chill your drink without dilution while stimulating the senses. See how chilling & motion take your drinking experience to the next level.

ON THE ROCK GLASS SERIES

T R U L Y A N E W WA Y T O E N J O Y O N T H E R O C K S

http://goo.gl/KiOm0A

For more information & where to buy

On The Rock Glass

On The Rock Glass

On The Rock Glass Stainless Steel Edition

With Silicone Ice Mould

With Stainless Steel Chilling Ball & Stainless Steel Tongs

With Stainless Steel Chilling Ball, Chilling Ball Base & Deluxe Stainless Steel Tongs

W W W . A LWAY S F I N A L T O U C H . C O M

NEW LOOK & NEW PRICE

George Wyndham planted Australia’s first commercial Shiraz vineyard and created a rich, robust wine style. A proud legacy that continues to this day.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

FEATURES

114 CHRISTMAS DINNER PREMIERE  By Christopher St. Onge Host your first ever Christmas dinner

with aplomb, imbuing everything from punch to turkey to dessert with modern taste.

124 ARRIVING IN STYLE  By James Chatto

What to serve your dinner guests when they arrive? Our expert’s top picks—from sparkling wine to aperitifs and cocktails—make a splashy first impression. 132 MAIN EVENTS By Lucy Waverman Take a pass on turkey and instead present our exceptional dishes of duck, rack of pork, saddle of lamb, Salmon Wellington or Serrano-Wrapped Beef. 138 FILMNIGHT FARE By Signe Langford A welcome change of pace for entertaining, these delectable dishes are designed to be eaten around the coffee table as you watch favourite holiday movies. 144 JUST DESSERTS By Joanne Yolles

144

Visually spectacular desserts that rival those of a fine restaurant’s—and taste as gorgeous as they look.

150 PARTY PIECES By Kat Tancock

Throwing a party this year? Sharing their top ideas for food, drinks, serving, music and décor—for a small or large crowd—the experts have you covered.

160 STUDIES IN BLACK & WHITE  By Christopher St. Onge

Black-and-white themed holiday parties make décor, food and even cocktails simply dazzling. ON THE COVER Couscous-Stuffed Boneless Turkey Saddle & Tart Cherry Gravy, recipe on page 240. Photography by Rob Fiocca

FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY 2015 9

TABLE OF CONTENTS

DEPARTMENTS

FOOD

TWISTS SAVOURY SENSATIONS By Monda Rosenberg Always welcome, savoury cookies partner gorgeously with drinks—and make great hostess gifts or nibbles to pull out for unexpected guests. ENTERTAINING SPANISH ACCENTS By Lucy Waverman With a menu easily divided amongst friends, these Spanish dishes provide lavish sampling over a whole evening—perfect for New Year’s Eve.

39

47

SEASONAL PERSIMMONS By Jennifer MacKenzie

73

This fleetingly available fruit lends itself to sweet and savoury dishes for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

QUICK & EASY SKILLET SUPPERS By Amy Rosen

91

With our hectic holiday schedules, we welcome simplified cooking—and these easy yet delicious dishes use just one pan!

91

TRENDS KID CUISINE By Eshun Mott

167

A sophisticated supper menu that kids aged 8 to 10 can make—designed with both children’s and adults’ palates in mind! ORIGINS HOLIDAY BAKING By Robert Hercz and Eshun Mott A look at the history of traditional seasonal treats whose ingredients were once exotic and rare—and bonus: a Christmas cake recipe that’s perfect for sharing.

175

FLAVOURS A WORLD OF SOUPS By Victoria Walsh

183

Flavourful soups add warmth to menus—or make an ideal lunch or light dinner paired with simple sides.

BASICS BREAD WINNERS By Joanne Yolles

191

Brioche is at its delicious best warm from the oven— our four sweet variations plus a basic recipe make for desserts and baked goods that are divine.

39

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

DEPARTMENTS

DRINK

BEER BEER & BITES By Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic

55

Stellar beer pairings for such seasonal fare as turkey and tortière, and for classic comfort foods like pizza and burgers.

ENTERTAINING CHARGED WITH GREATNESS  By Michelle P.E.Hunt & Laura Panter

63

“Charging” drinks—lengthening cocktails with sparkling water—is a classic technique, but in honour of the holidays we’ve used sparkling wine for a festive touch. SEASONAL BEST OF 2015 By James Chatto A helpful look back over the year at products that stood out for their greatness—keepers, all. GIFTING GOING WITH CHOCOLATE By Stephen Beaumont From fine to sublime—elevate a gift of boxed chocolates by including a bottle that complements the sweet nibbles.

81

26

99

IN EVERY ISSUE

WINE EXTRAVAGANT GESTURES By James Chatto

199

Before splurging on a special bottle for the holidays, rely on our expert’s choices that are well worth the extra cost.

EDITOR’S NOTES

16

A SPLASH OF ICEWINE Ontario’s own sweet, concentrated elixir shares the spotlight with rich pork rillettes—an old school, easy-to-make pâté. WHAT’S NEW A selection of products from around the world available at the LCBO and Vintages. MUST-HAVES Things we love for entertaining and around the house. TRENDSPOTTING Our experts suggest what to Eat, Drink and Try this season.

19

207 SPIRITS

BARTENDER IN A BOTTLE By Corinna vanGerwen Premade and bottled cocktails make fab and fresh holiday and hostess gifts—and are super-convenient when entertaining!

21

26

29

RECIPE INDEX

254

SOURCE RESOURCE

254

5 QUESTIONS WITH… Jason Bangerter, executive chef at Langdon Hall in Cambridge, Ont., shares his holiday traditions—and what’s in his fridge that we might find surprising.

256

207

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Publication Director & SVP .........Nancy Cardinal Sales, Marketing & Insights

VP Marketing ..................................Kerri Dawson Editor .................................................Jody Dunn Art Director .....................................Karen Lim Senior Editor ...................................James Chatto Food Editor .......................................Lucy Waverman Contributing Editors ....................Charlene Rooke, Kat Tancock Publication Coordinator ............Leslie Virdo Senior Designer .............................Cathy Cicchini Graphic Designer .........................Pat Turbach Production Manager ...................Mark Greene Production Coordinator .............Judy Haverkort Publication Assistant .................Piper MacFadyen Production Assistant ...................Everton Smith Food Stylists ....................................Michael Elliott, Eshun Mott, Christopher St. Onge Prop Stylists ....................................Catherine MacFadyen, Andrea McCrindle, Lara McGraw, Shelly Shnier, Sansyrae St. Martin Contributors ...................................Julia Aitken, Stephen Beaumont,

Cynthia David, Robert Hercz, Michelle P. E. Hunt, Anna Kohn, Signe Langford, Ann Lough, Jennifer MacKenzie, Brenda Morrison, Eshun Mott, Laura Panter, Amy Rosen, Monda Rosenberg, Christopher St. Onge, Corinna vanGerwen, Eric Vellend, VictoriaWalsh, ToniaWilson‑Vuksanovic, Joanne Yolles

COMING NEXT ISSUE ON THE BONE Hearty chops and winter beers

Publisher ..........................................Wayne Leek

THE SLOWER THE BETTER Food and drinks worth waiting for

For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about LCBO products and policy please contact helloLCBO online at hellolcbo.com, or call toll-free 1•800•668•5226 or 416•365•5900. TTY Only: 416•864•6898 or 1•800•361•3291. For advertising in Food & Drink magazine, please contact Keystone Media, 416•224•1500 or e-mail foodanddrink@keystonemedia.ca. All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the LCBO’s advertising agreement. Food & Drink is published six times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Volume 23, Number 2. Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 percent post-consumer fibre. Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs.

RICH HARMONIES New World red wine blends PANCAKE DAY A world of delicious recipes

Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Drink , 55 Lake Shore Boulevard East, Toronto, ON, M5E 1A4 ISSN 1195-5988

WATCH FOR THE WI NT E R I S S UE OF

AVA I LABLE JANUARY 1 3

Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all LCBO stores.

PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE. Cette publication est également disponible en français.

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2 0 1 5

G I F T G U I D E

AVAILABLE NOW

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THE BOOK LOVERS’ HOL IDAY SHOP

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EDITOR’S NOTES

Welcome to our holiday issue! In the spirit of the season we have two exciting bits of news to share with you.    In response to popular demand, recipes from the current issue are now available online at foodanddrink.ca the day an issue is released—as opposed to previously, when they only became available when the next issue was released. We know this is handy for recipe searches and also for sharing recipes with friends and we’re happy to be able to provide this option for our readers. The second bit of good news is that, starting with this issue, we will be o ering a digital edition of the print magazine, available November 18th— another convenience factor, but also eliminating disappointment for those who do not make it to the LCBO in time to get their copy. Find it online at foodanddrink.ca/fddigital.    We certainly wouldn’t want anyone to miss this issue, filled with an abun- dance of recipes, menus and drink and gift ideas to assist in the planning of your holiday gatherings and occasions. If this is the year you’re taking over the Christmas dinner hosting duties for the first time, Christopher St. Onge’s menu on page 114 is a manageable feast—with plenty of make-ahead tips—that forges new but familiar tradi- tions. For New Year’s Eve, Food Editor Lucy Waverman’s Spanish tapas menu (page 47) is ideal for an evening of graz- ing and the recipes are easily divided amongst friends to ease the workload.

For a more laid-back gathering, consider hosting a holiday movie marathon and serving the menu starting on page 138, which was designed with eating around the co ee table in mind.    On the drinks side, where to begin? If you’re giving a box of chocolates, check out page 99 for Stephen Beaumont’s suggestions for a bottle to include that will complement whatever style of chocolate is inside—taking the gift from fine to sublime. Beer is finally being accepted as a great pairing for a wide variety of foods, but what about holiday fare? For our story on page 55, we selected 20 styles of food that are commonly served at this time of year (including some comfort food classics) and paired each with its ideal beer match—including some favourite pairings by those in the know, the LCBO’s beer buyers. I am often asked by friends and family for wine suggestions to give as gifts. This year I will be referring them to two articles by Senior Editor, James Chatto. On page 81, he shares some of his favourite wines that he has tasted this year— translating to gifts you can give with confidence. Then, on page 199, he suggests more extravagant gestures for the connoisseurs on your list—wines that are worth the splurge.    I’d like to take this opportunity to thank all of our contributors for another excellent year of Food & Drink and to wish them and all our readers the very happiest of holidays!

PORTRAIT BY STACEY BRANDFORD

FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY

Los Cabos Exclusive

T he Los Cabos area is made up of two towns — Cabo San Lucas, the more action-packed of the two with lots of restaurants and nightlife, and San José del Cabo, the more picturesque and peaceful sibling — which means, when it comes to dining, you basically have two destinations in one. And what a selection! Prepare yourself for a gourmand’s delight! Enjoy everything from fine dining establishments, to casual seafood cafés, to simple taquerías. Of course it should come as no surprise that seafood is the true highlight here. From the delectable fish tacos to the catch of the day, the bounty of the sea is particularly bountiful and delicious. In San José, the area’s hotbed of culinary activity, you’ll find Continental, French, Asian and of course Mexican cuisine, along with many places offering farm-to-table fare, as well as cooking courses and tours.

TASTE

Save on your next vacation to Mexico! Call 1.866.WOW.DEAL (969-3325) or visit itravel2000.com

BEACHES A long with its nightlife, the beaches of Acapulco are one of the city’s most popular attractions. Whether you are looking for a beach with calm water for swimming, an action-packed day on the sand & sea, something more secluded, the perfect place to watch the sunset, or the best spot to go surfing, Acapulco has a beach to match! Caleta Beach is located in the “old” part of the city and is great for swimming, which makes it a good choice for families with younger kids. Icacos Beach is a favourite spot for spring breakers and those wanting to go parasailing or rent wave runners. The beach at Puerto Marques is a little further afield (15-20 minutes by bus from downtown) but has calm waters and is picture-perfect. Revolcadero Beach is a true beauty that is located just south of the city, and La Bonfil beach offers some of the best waves for surfing.

Acapulco Beach

Save on your next vacation to Mexico! Call 1.866.WOW.DEAL (969-3325) or visit itravel2000.com

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A SPLASH OF ICEWINE BY ERIC VELLEND  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

THE PROOF IS IN THE FLAVOUR WHEN YOU COOK WITH ICEWINE.

Made from über-ripe grapes left hanging on the vines until the temperature drops to a frigid –8°C, icewine is Canada’s most coveted oenological export. Due to its hefty price tag—each frozen grape only yields a drop of juice—it’s rarely used in the kitchen. But there are cer- tain situations where the sweet, concentrated elixir is worth the splurge. This pork rillettes, an old- school, easy-to-make pâté, is one of them. Set into a gelée to seal the rillettes, the icewine retains its complexity, and instead of being relegated to a supporting role, it shares the spotlight.     Peller Estates Private Reserve Vidal Icewine ( VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 18564, 200 mL, $26.95) is an affordable option and is terrific in this dish: its intense apricot and honey flavours are excellent with pork. For a more unique option, Stratus Red Icewine ( VINTAGES 56689, 200 mL, $39.95) is made from a blend of red grapes instead of the usual Vidal or Riesling. Its cherry, plum and herbal flavours are in synch with the spicing in the rillettes, and the deep maroon hue offers a striking colour contrast. Either way, a quivering crown of icewine gelée will transform a peasant pâté into a regal spread.

PORK RILLETTES WITH ICEWINE GELÉE recipe on page 215

FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY 2015 19

WHAT’S NEW COPY BY JULIA AITKEN  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI AND MICHAEL MAHOVLICH

A WORLD OF NEW PRODUCTS AT THE LCBO AND VINTAGES.

A HERITAGE MOMENT

Mount Gay 1703 Old Cask Selection LCBO 225664, $124.95 First produced in Barbados in 1703, Mount Gay rum boasts a very long pedigree. Master blender Allen Smith dipped intoMount Gay’s old- est reserves to create 1703 Old Cask Selection. With aromas of oak and caramel giving way to flavours of caramel, spice and toast, this makes an exceptional gift for rum and history buffs alike.

UNRAVELLING A MYSTERY Enigma Cabernet Sauvignon LCBO 428847, $13.95 Despite a name that suggests a puzzle, Enigma wines have been designed to be easy to understand and enjoy. Made from high-quality grapes, this Californian red reveals layers of black cherry, mocha and vanilla. It’s a ripe, fruit-forward wine that teams well with winter-worthy dishes like grilled steak or spicy tomato sauce on pasta.

A WINNING WHITE

Burnt Ship Bay Pinot Grigio VQA LCBO 404939, $14.95

When you’re looking for a crowd-pleasing white to serve at a holiday party, this award-winner fromNiagara is a good place to start. Peach, banana and honey flavours, followed by refreshing minerality and spice, it’s an ideal aperitif. Try it, too, with grilled halibut, light pastas or risotto with shrimp.

FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY 2015 21

WHAT ’ S NEW

BORDEAUX FOR ALL Château Canteloup, Médoc AOC LCBO 420000, $19.95 Now on offer in LCBO wines after its success in VINTAGES , this Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blend offers a fantastic opportunity to enjoy a fine red Bordeaux at a competitive price. Notes of coffee, spice and woodsmoke make this the perfect pour for a holiday feast of roast prime rib, or even for a casual burger night.

TRENDY SIPPER Crazy Uncle Whiskey, Cider & Chai Tea Cocktail LCBO 432880, 1 L, $18.95 This on-trend cocktail hits every but- ton. It’s ready to drink andmade from all-natural ingredients, including the season’s hottest beverage, chai tea. Crafted from freshly steeped arti- sanal loose-leaf tea blended with real whiskey and cider, then sweetened with just a touch of Canadian honey, it’s fabulous over ice or as a piping hot fireside sipper.

A MODERN CLASSIC Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi Tenuta di Castiglioni VINTAGES 145920, $21.95 If you’re celebrating the holidays with a crown roast of pork, check out this Italian blend. The house of Frescobaldi has been crafting wines for more than 700 years but lots of red fruit, sweet spice and vanilla give a modern feel to this blend of Cab’ Sauv’, Cab’ Franc, Merlot and Sangiovese.

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Our Home and Native Cheese

From creamy to crumbly, these delicious cheeses are a truly Canadian pleasure.

Canadian Blue Cheese

Canadian Swiss Cheese

Canadian Camembert

For delicious recipes visit

WHAT ’ S NEW

FESTIVE FAVOURITE

SPIRIT OF GIVING Wiser’s, Canada’s top whisky brand, has developed a new flavour profile by infusing its finest whisky with the taste of hops for a brand-new twist on tradition. With all the rich taste you’ve come to expect from Wiser’s, coupled with a hoppy finish, it’s a great gift for your favourite whisky—or beer—aficionado. Wiser’s Hopped Canadian Whisky LCBO 409508, $28.95

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 84996, $27.95 Coonawarra is known for its Cab- ernet Sauvignon, and this is a splendid example. A long-stand- ing customer favourite, the wine is now a VINTAGES ESSENTIAL . Lush and fruity and loaded with black fruit, cassis, spice, leather and herbal notes, it’s a must with rosemary-crusted roast lamb, or for the red wine lover on your list.

SUCCESS STORY BrewDog Punk IPA LCBO 414946, 500 mL, $3.25

BrewDog launched in 2007 as a two-man (and one-dog) craft brewery in Scotland. Today the company produces more than 36 beers and operates brewpubs in places as far afield as Brazil and Japan. Punk IPA, a full-on brew, is the company’s flagship beer. Look for grapefruit, pineapple and lychee flavours and a spiky, bitter finish.

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0 © 2 15 J NS H O ONVI LLE SAUS GE, A LC L

MUST -HAVES BY BRENDA MORRISON  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

FROM GIFTS TO DÉCOR TO SPECIAL TOUCHES FOR THE KITCHEN AND BAR— GREAT IDEAS THAT ADD TO THE HOLIDAY FESTIVITIES.

FOR JUNIOR CHEFS Wondering what to give an aspiring young chef? You can help hone their culinary skills with Opinel’s Le Petit Chef starter kit ($71). Designed for small hands (ages 8-plus), it features a peeler, a knife and a finger guard for safety. Available at Hopson Grace (Toronto, 416•926•1120, hopsongrace.com).

COOKIE COUTURE Here’s a sweet way to transform rolled cookie dough into festive treats! Valek Rolling Pins ($74.99, orangefish.ca, 1•866•434•6726) are made of solid beech with laser- engraved patterns featuring snowflakes, Christmas trees and other fun patterns.

DESIGNED FOR DISHES You can add festive flair to pretty much every- thing—including the kitchen sink! Looking like peppermint candies, Tawashi Scrubbers ($10 for a set of 3) from NOW Designs are handy for washing dishes. They also make cute stocking stuffers, or use them to decorate kitchen-themed holiday gifts. For retailers: 1•888•632•6422.

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RED HOT Just in time for holiday gifting, this porcelain- enamel KitchenAid Kettle ($129.99) is available in nine fashionable colours, including festive Empire Red. The two-quart design is trimmed with stainless steel and accented with a black comfort-grip handle and thumb-press spout. To find a retailer or shop online: kitchenaid.ca.

LET IT SNOW! Magical Cutout Snowflake Lights ($70 each) instantly transform any party space into a winter wonderland! Choose from four snowflake designs, each made of laser-cut paper and ranging in diameter from 17 to 24 inches. Stunning for a winter wedding. For retailers, email gifts@abbottcollection.com.

SCENTS OF OCCASION Lovely for hostess gifts, these vintage-style Hobnail Glass Candles (16 oz, $40) are available in a myriad of colours, each with a di erent scent. Filled with pure vegetable wax, the candle has a burn time of 100 hours. Afterwards, the handcrafted glass cup can be used as a small vase. For retailers, call 1•800•370•4857.

ALL THAT GLITTERS Cause a stir amongst cocktail drinkers with glittery Meri Meri Swizzle Sticks ($9.95 for 12). They’ll glam up any beverage in a Highball glass—even if it’s just sparkling water. Available at Presto Paper and Home (Toronto, 416•513•1011, prestopaperandhome.com).

Please enjoy our wines responsibly. © 2015 Meiomi Wines,Acampo, CA

Available at the LCBO in Vintages.

TREND SPOTTING BY KAT TANCOCK  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

WHAT OUR EXPERTS ARE EATING, DRINKING AND BUYING THIS SEASON.

PREMIUM COCOA When recipe developer Eric Vellend wants to make chocolate desserts that truly impress, he heads to Toronto chocolatier Soma for its premium cocoa powder, available either in-store or online ($12 for 250 g, somachocolate.com).“It’s almost like a different recipe,” he says. “You get a richer red colour, and the flavour is more complex.” Eric particularly likes to use the product in brownie and chocolate cake recipes with a high cocoa content, or as a coating for homemade chocolate truffles—and notes that the attractive jar it’s packaged in makes it extremely giftable.“It’s worth every penny of the splurge,” he says.“The difference is insane.” THE ICEWINE GELÉE on Eric’s Pork Rillettes recipe (page 19) was chosen to showcase the flavours of the quintessential Canadian beverage. “Cooking with icewine is tricky because it’s so expensive,” he says. “It has to be front and centre.”

PORTRAIT BY STACEY BRANDFORD

FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY 2015 29

TREND SPOTT ING

GIFTABLE WHISKY

While writer Stephen Beaumont doesn’t like to play favourites with the drinks he consumes, there is one that strikes both a sentimental and a practical note: Bowmore 12 Year Old Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky ( LCBO 330803, $59.95), which his

wife brought back from Scotland as her first gift to him. “It was the only spirit we served at our wedding reception,” he says. He still enjoys a dram now and again, either neat or with a slight splash of water, and also appreciates its giftability. “It comes in at a price that’s not going to break the bank,” he says, “but it also comes in a nice box so you can wrap it.” WHILE STEPHEN HAS done chocolate pairings with beer and spirits numerous times, “Going with Chocolate” (page 99) was his first with wine. “I ended up using a sparkling rosé,” he says. “The chocolate really brings out a lot of the strawberry and raspberry notes in the wine.”

PORTRAIT BY JAY BROOKS

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THE WORLD’S FINEST STEAKS. DELIVERED FOR CHRISTMAS.

A Fuego Diablo steak is an indulgence of the highest order; a premium experience that rivals that found in only the world’s top steakhouses. And now, that experience is yours to give.

From our Certifed Prime Black Angus Beef raised in the golden prairies of Alberta and the ranch lands of Texas and Colorado, to our coveted A5 Japanese Wagyu from the legendary Gunma Prefecture in Japan, we travel to the ends of the earth to deliver beef worthy of the name Fuego Diablo. Expertly aged and hand trimmed, each Fuego Diablo steak is then individually vacuum sealed and fash frozen. Steaks are packed into a reusable cooler, nestled in dry ice and shipped across Canada in our distinctive black packaging. For those who appreciate a world class steak, there is no greater gift to receive.

Give the gift that won’t soon be forgotten. Give Fuego Diablo and show someone how much you really appreciate them.

fuegodiablo.com

TREND SPOTT ING

CLASSIC CAST IRON While she’s happy to try new gadgets, recipe developer Joanne Yolles likes to go back to basics on her stove, with classic cast-iron pans by Lodge (lodgemfg.com). “They hold the heat really well,” she points out, “and if they’re seasoned properly, things don’t stick.” The heavy pans help make latkes and fish skin crispy, and can go in the oven for dishes like skillet cornbread, too. To care for them, simply wash without soap, dry and rub in a bit of vegetable oil. A classic 9-inch pan, paired with a hot handle holder (also available through website), would make a welcome gift for the cook on your list. “You have to look after them,” Joanne adds, “but they’re inexpensive and they work really well.” JOANNE BASED THE RedWine-Poached Pear andHazelnut Torte she developed for “Just Desserts” (page 144) on an almond cake recipe she learned in cooking school in 1982—and has used ever since. “It’s just one of those recipes you come back to,” she says.

32  FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY 2015

L I M I T E D E D I T I O N B O T T L E H O L FREE L I E R

I D A Y S W E A T E R •

FOR REAL

FREE HOLIDAY SWEATER FOR YOUR BOTTLE. with the purchase of select Robert Mondavi Private Selection Wines from December 6, 2015 to January 2, 2016. While quantities last. Visit your local LCBO store for details.

Perfect to bring to your holiday get togethers.

Please enjoy responsibly.

IMPRESSIVE NO MATTER HOW YOU SLICE IT.

You provide the surface and our selection of flavourful PC ® Black Label products will do the rest. This Charcuterie and Cheese Board features rich and mellow White Fox Hard-Ripened Cheese from Northern England, sweet and nutty Jamón Ibérico Dry-Cured Ham from Spain and vibrant, spicy Tricolore Peppers from Peru. It’s not just a feast, it’s a feast for the eyes.

Charcuterie and Cheese Board

INGREDIENTS

PC ® Black Label Gorgonzola Dolce DOP Soft Blue-Veined Cheese

1 pkg (200 g)

PC ® Black Label White Fox

1 pkg (250 g)

Hard Ripened Aged 12 Months Cheese

PC ® Black Label Comté Hard

1 pkg (150 g)

Ripened Cheese

PC ® Black Label Jamón Ibérico Dry-Cured Ibérico Ham 225 g-pkg PC ® Salami Rustico Dry-Cured Salami, casing removed, thinly sliced

1 pkg (80 g)

Half

PC ® Whole Grain Dijon

3 tbsp (45 mL) 3 tbsp (45 mL)

Mustard

PC ® Black Label Bacon Marmalade Spread

drained PC ® Black Label Tricolore Mini Sweet Cherry Peppers, thinly sliced

5

Half

350 g baguette, thinly sliced

150 g-pkg PC ® Black Label Coconut & Date Artisan Crisps

Half

3

apples

1/2 cup (125 mL)

toasted walnut halves

instructions

1. Divide large wooden board into thirds visually. Unwrap and arrange cheese on two-thirds of board, spacing to allow room for cutting. Cover with plastic wrap. Leave on counter to come to room temperature, about 30 minutes. 2. Place ham and salami on remaining third of board. Place mustard, marmalade and peppers into separate small bowls; arrange on board around cheese and meat. Place small spoons in condiment bowls and small knives near cheeses. 3. Mound baguette and crisps on board. Core and slice apples; place on board with walnuts.

Find all our holiday-inspired recipes at pc.ca/blacklabel

All trademarks & logos are trademarks of Loblaws Inc. ©2015 Loblaws Inc. All rights reserved.

ONTARIO SUPERSTARS Whether it’s appetizers or a family feast, Ontario wines are the perfect match. Choose from our curated selection of wines and recipes to help you entertain this holiday season.

CAVE SPRING RIESLING VQA 234583 750 mL $14.95 OFF DRY & FRUITY D 17 g/L

HIDDEN BENCH ESTATE PINOT NOIR VQA 274753 750 mL Reg. $29.95 NOW $27.95 SAVE $2.00 MEDIUM BODIED & FRUITY D 6 g/L * VINTAGES ESSENTIALS

PELEE ISLAND PINOT NOIR VQA 135939 750 mL $12.95 LIGHT BODIED & FRUITY D 12 g/L

INDIAN SPICED SHRIMP Scan the code for this recipe or visit lcbo.recipes/5704

DUCK TOURTIÈRE CROSTINI WITH FRESH THYME Scan the code for this recipe or visit lcbo.recipes/5703

Featured products available at select LCBO stores. Prices subject to change without notice. Offervalid until November 29, 2015 *VintagesEssentialsCollection isalwaysavailable atmanyLCBO locations.Visitvintages.com.

22539

FOOD  TWISTS

BY MONDA ROSENBERG  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE

Savoury cookies are always welcome as hostess gifts or as nibbles to pull out for unexpected guests—and they partner gorgeously with drinks.

MOROCCAN

recipe on page 216

FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY 2015 39

TWISTS  SAVOURY SENSATIONS

3 In a bowl, stir flour with salt. In a larger bowl, beat butter until very creamy, about 2 minutes, then gradually beat in icing sugar and beat for about 2 minutes. Use a wooden spoon to gradually stir in flour mixture, fol- lowed by the nuts, using floured hands to knead in the last of the flour and nuts. Gather dough into a ball. 4 Cut dough in half and place 1 piece on a flour-dusted work surface. Form into a disc. Using a floured rolling pin, roll to ¼-inch (5‑mm) thickness. If it becomes sticky, dust rolling pin and the work surface with flour. Cut out cookies using a 1½- to 2-inch (4- to 5-cm) cookie cutter. Place on parchment- covered sheets, about 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart. Gather dough left after cutting, roll out and cut into cookies. Repeat with remaining half of dough. 5 Bake in top and bottom thirds of oven, switching sheets halfway through, until cook- ies are firm, from 15 to 17 minutes. You do not

Cocktail sandwich cookies studded with rich pecans and held together with creamy Stilton add a luxurious note to any affair. Or wind down a dinner party with them, “standing in” for both a cheese and a dessert course. Don’t forget a glass of port! COOKIES 1⅓ cups (330 mL) all-purpose flour ½ tsp (2 mL) salt ¾ cup (175 mL) unsalted butter, at room temperature 8 oz (250 g) cream cheese, at room temperature ½ cup (125 mL) finely crumbled Stilton cheese, about 2⅓ oz (70 g) 1 Preheat oven to 300°F (150°C). 2 Place oven racks in the top and bottom third of the oven. Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment. ⅓ cup (80 mL) sifted icing sugar ½ cup (125 mL) chopped pecans STILTON FILLING

want them to brown. Leave on sheets 5 min- utes, then transfer to a rack to cool. Stored in a sealed container at room temperature, they’ll keep well for at least a week. 6 To make filling, pulse cream cheese and Stilton in a food processor until blended and creamy. If making ahead, cover and refriger- ate up to a week. Bring to room temperature before spreading over half the cookies, using about 1 tbsp (15 mL) on each. Then add a cookie on top. It’s best to make these no more than about an hour before the party, since the filled cookies soften as they sit. Makes about 18 filled sandwich cookies

WHAT TO SERVE Taylor Fladgate Late Bottled Vintage Port LCBO 46946, $17.95

WITH STILTON FILLING

40  FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY 2015

A century of fine winemaking deserves more than one story. To celebrate our centenary, we’re sharing 100 stories which have shaped our family’s 100 years of innovation, achievement and winemaking excellence.

Discover our stories at babichwines.co.nz/100stories

10 BONUS AIRMILES WITH EACHBOTTLE PURCHASED FROM NOVEMBER 30, 2015 TO JANUARY 2, 2016.

TWISTS  SAVOURY SENSATIONS

MIXED OLIVE & PARMESAN

Warm biscuits with a little Parmesan and earthy olives in every bite are absolutely divine and an unexpected treat with a glass of fortified wine. Use a mix of your favourite olives such as Kalamata and green olives. Bake ahead if you like, then warm in the oven just before your first guest knocks on the door. ¼ cup (60 mL) cold unsalted butter 1 cup (250 mL) all-purpose flour 2 tsp (10 mL) baking powder ½ tsp (2 mL) dry mustard ½ tsp (2 mL) salt 2 tsp (10 mL) granulated sugar ⅓ cup (80 mL) finely grated Parmesan ⅓ cup (80 mL) finely chopped pitted olives ½ cup (125 mL) milk Olive oil 1 Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C). 2 Place butter in freezer to firm. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. In a bowl, stir flour with baking powder, dry mustard, salt and sugar. Using large holes of a box grater, grate in chilled butter. Lightly toss to coat. Stir in Parmesan. Scatter with olives and

stir in. Pour milk into the centre of dough. Stir with a fork just until evenly moist. 3 Using floured hands, form dough into a ball. If sticky, lightly dust with flour and work in. Place on a well-floured work surface. Knead dough 8 times, dusting counter with flour whenever it becomes sticky. Pat into a disc ⅝ inch (13 mm) thick and about 6½ inches (16 cm) wide. 4 Using a floured 1½-inch (4-cm) cutter, cut out biscuits and place on baking sheet. Gather remaining dough, pat again and cut out more biscuits. Brush tops with olive oil. Bake in top third of oven until golden, 10 to 12 minutes. Serve warm or cool on a rack. Biscuits are best served the day they are baked and can be warmed in a 300°F (150°C) oven for about 5 minutes before serving. Makes 16 small (2-bite) biscuits

BACON & CRANBERRY BI SCUITS

Cook 7 slices of bacon until crisp. Chop and measure out ⅓ cup (80 mL). Prepare recipe as Mixed Olive & Parmesan Cocktail Biscuits but instead add ½ tsp (2 mL) smoky paprika and ¼ tsp (1 mL) chili flakes in place of dry mustard, and stir in chopped bacon and 1 tbsp (15 mL) finely chopped dried cranberries in place of Parmesan and olives. Press a dried cranberry into the top of each biscuit if you like. Brush tops with bacon fat. Bake as in step 4. Makes 16 small (2-bite) biscuits

WHAT TO SERVE Knob Creek Bourbon LCBO 326009, $46.95

WHAT TO SERVE Dolin Vermouth De Chambery Rouge LCBO 370841, $13.70

42  FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY 2015

Ciot wishes you a very Happy Holiday Season

EVERLASTING TRENDS montreal toronto vaughan mississauga quebec brossard detroit ciot.com MARBLE STONE GRANITE ONYX CERAMIC QUARTZ MOSAIC

TWISTS  SAVOURY SENSATIONS

ROSEMARY

Clean flavours of butter and fresh rosemary are a winning combo in these bite-size cookies. Since they’re fast-to-stir-together “icebox” cookies, it’s easy to make them ahead and re- frigerate until cocktail hour is nigh. Then it’s a simple slice-and-bake process—a true god-

1¼ inches (3 cm) wide and 8 inches (20 cm) long. Wrap in clear wrap or waxed paper. Re- frigerate until firm, at least 1 hour or up to 1 week. Alternatively, seal in a plastic bag and freeze up to 6 months, but move to the refrig- erator for a day before slicing. 3 To bake, preheat oven to 325°F (160°C). 4 Remove a log from the refrigerator; let stand at room temperature about 10 minutes to make it easier to slice. Then slice in ¼-inch-thick (5‑mm) rounds. Place on a large parchment- lined baking sheet, dipping cookie tops into finely chopped rosemary or gently pressing a tiny sprig on each if you wish. 5 Bake in centre of preheated oven until cookie bottoms are pale golden, 9 to 10 min- utes. Remove right away to a rack to cool completely. Repeat with remaining dough. Cookies will keep well stored in an airtight container in a cool place up to 1 week. Makes 120 small cookies

send during hectic holiday times. 2 cups (500 mL) all-purpose flour ½ tsp (2 mL) baking powder ½ tsp (2 mL) salt

HAZELNUT SAGE BUTTER COOKIES Toast ½ cup (125 mL) hazelnuts on a baking sheet at 350°F (180°C) until skins crack, 7 to 8 minutes. Tumble into a towel, and rub to re- move skins. Finely chop nuts. Prepare recipe as in Rosemary Butter Cookies but use 1 tbsp (15 mL) dried leaf sage in place of rosemary, crumbling it between your fingers as you add. Omit pepper. After stirring in the flour, stir in nuts. Continue as in recipe, sprinkling the top of cookies with finely chopped nuts

½ tsp (2 mL) ground white pepper (optional) 2 tbsp (30 mL) very finely chopped fresh rosemary 1 egg 1 cup (250 mL) unsalted butter, at room temperature

½ cup (125 mL) granulated sugar 1 tsp (5 mL) pure vanilla extract Fresh rosemary for garnish

1 In a bowl, blend flour with baking powder, salt, white pepper (if using) and rosemary. In a larger bowl, using an electric mixer on medi- um, beat egg with butter, sugar and vanilla for about 2 minutes. Using low speed, gradually beat in about half the flour mixture. Then stir in remaining mixture using a spatula or spoon. 2 Using floured hands, gather dough into a ball. Divide into 4 portions. On a lightly floured surface, shape each into a log about

before baking, if you like. Makes 120 small cookies

WHAT TO SERVE Plymouth English Gin LCBO 277004, $44.95

WHAT TO SERVE Rossi D’Asiago Limoncello LCBO 469643, $21.95

44  FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY 2015

Ordinary Sensitivity Toothpaste Colgate * Sensitive Pro-Relief TM/MC

SENSITIVE TEETH? THERE’S A BETTER CHOICE. †

Seals exposed nerves to help repair sensitive teeth. ††

STOPNUMBING. STARTREPAIRING SENSITIVETEETH.

† Superior sensitivity relief vs. ordinary sensitivity toothpaste containing 5% potassium nitrate (equivalent to 2% potassium ion). †† With regular use. Toothpaste also fights cavities. Colgate-Palmolive Canada Inc. *TM Reg’d/M.D.

Even a good guess is a bad idea. At the LCBO, we don’t guess. That’s why we checked the ID of over 13.5 million people last year. Please have your ID ready. High school or grad school?

See the answer at lcbo.com/cardornot #cardornot

22918

FOOD  ENTERTAINING

Verdejo is the key grape variety of the white wines of northwest Spain’s Rueda region. This wine is intensely aromatic with hints of herbs, citrus and a char- acteristic almond note that combines with crisp acidity to lift and enhance the flavours of this soup. Rueda is medium- bodied with a richness that matches the texture of the soup. The almond notes on the wine’s finish play well with the serrano ham and sheep’s cheese toppings. Marqués de Riscal Rueda LCBO 36822, $12.20

ZUCCHINI PURÉE WITH CRISPY HAM & SHEEP’S CHEESE recipe on page 230

BY LUCY WAVERMAN  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA spanish Accents

Spanish cuisine, both traditional and groundbreak­ ing, is the cuisine of the moment. Recently, Spanish chefs have been preaching the return of the vege­ table, rather than a protein, as a centrepiece of the plate, which is becoming a world-wide movement. Our Spanish New Year’s Eve menu highlights this trend, and the sophistication of the flavours will stay with you as we settle into winter.

THIS NEW YEAR’S EVE, RAISE A GLASS AND A FORK HONOURING SENSATIONAL SPANISH FLAVOURS—NO WONDER THEY’RE ALL THE RAGE—WITH A MENU THAT IS EASILY DIVIDED UP AMONG FRIENDS, PROVIDINGLAVISH SAMPLING OVER THE WHOLE EVENING.

FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY 2015 47

tapas As appetizers, 2 of these recipes serve 8; if the party is serving only tapas, 3 recipes serve 8.

Patatas Bravas

¼ tsp (1 mL) sugar 2 tbsp (30 mL) sherry vinegar Salt AÏOLI ¼ cup (60 mL) mayonnaise ½ tsp (2 mL) minced garlic or more to taste 1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juice Salt and freshly ground pepper GARNISH 1 tbsp (15 mL) chopped parsley 1 Preheat oven to 450°F (230°C). 2 Place potatoes in a pot of salted cold water. Bring to boil and boil 5 minutes. Drain well and shake dry in pot over turned-off heat. 3 Toss potatoes with oil and season with salt and pepper. Place on baking sheet and bake

The mild taste of the avocado contrasts with the salty anchovies, making a delightful tapa. You can substitute the olive oil for the oil from the anchovy can for a stronger taste if desired. 4 slices country bread or egg bread ½ cup (125 mL) chopped tomato 3 tbsp (45 mL) mayonnaise 1 tbsp (15 mL) Spanish extra virgin olive oil 1 avocado, peeled and cubed 1 tbsp (15 mL) lemon juice Maldon salt to finish 1 Toast bread until crisp and golden. Trim and discard crusts. 2 Purée together tomato, mayonnaise and 2 tsp (10 mL) olive oil. Stir in anchovy. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside. 3 Mash together avocado, lemon juice and re- maining 1 tsp (5 mL) olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. 4 Spread avocado mixture evenly over toasts and drizzle each with tomato-anchovy mayon- naise. Cut each toast into quarters and sprinkle with Maldon salt. Serves 4 2 anchovy fillets, finely chopped Salt and freshly ground pepper for about 20 to 25 minutes or until golden and tender, turning occasionally. Remove from oven and sprinkle with more salt. Reserve. 4 Heat 1 tbsp (15 mL) oil in skillet over medi- um-low heat. Add onion and garlic and sauté for 7 to 10 minutes or until soft. Stir in paprika and chili flakes and cook for 1 minute. Add tomatoes and bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes or until thickened. Add sugar and sherry vinegar. Season well with salt. Reserve until needed. 5 Combine mayonnaise with garlic and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper. 6 Place potatoes on serving plate and spoon over warm tomato sauce. Streak with the aïoli and sprinkle with parsley. Serves 4 AVOCADO & ANCHOVY TOASTS

This smoky, fiery tapa is so popular in Madrid that every tapas bar has its own version. They are usually deep-fried but I bake them for calorie-saving and ease. The amount of both garlic in the aïoli and paprika in the sauce are to taste. Adjust as you wish. The potatoes and tomato sauce are served warm. POTATOES 1½ lbs (750 g) Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cut into rough 1½ to 2 inch (4 to 5 cm) dice 3 tbsp (45 mL) olive oil Salt and freshly ground pepper

TOMATO SAUCE 1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil ½ cup (125 mL) chopped Spanish onion 1 tbsp (15 mL) chopped garlic 1 tsp (5 mL) hot smoked Spanish paprika ¼ tsp (1 mL) red chili flakes 2 cups (500 mL) puréed tomatoes

Beet Tartare

3 tbsp (45 mL) capers 12 Belgian endive leaves

Jewel-like diced beets with spices and sherry vinegar make for an appealing veg- etarian alternative. Serve with Belgian en- dive leaves for people to spoon the tartare onto. The horseradish cream gives a hint of spice to balance the sweet beets.

1 Place beets in a large pot and cover with cold water. Bring to boil and cook covered for 30 to 40 minutes or until beets are crisp-tender. Drain beets and rinse with cold water. 2 Peel beets and dice into ¼-inch (5-mm) cubes. Combine with shallots, chives, ses- ame seeds and mustard seeds. 3 Whisk vinegar with Dijon, olive oil and dill. Season with salt and pepper. Reserve. 4 Whisk cream in a bowl until slightly thickened. Whisk in yogurt, lemon juice, dill, mustard and horseradish. The consis- tency should be like a soft whipped cream. Season with salt and pepper. 5 Heat ¼ cup (60 mL) vegetable oil in a small skillet over medium-high heat. Add capers and fry until they become browned and open up, about 1 to 3 minutes. 2 Stir vinaigrette into tartare. Garnish with fried capers. Serve horseradish cream sep- arately. Place some tartare on each Belgian endive leaf and top with a touch of horse- radish cream. Serves 4

TARTARE 8 oz (250 g) red beets, unpeeled 2 tbsp (30 mL) chopped shallots 2 tsp (10 mL) chopped chives ½ tsp (2 mL) sesame seeds ½ tsp (2 mL) mustard seeds VINAIGRETTE 1 tbsp (15 mL) sherry vinegar 1 tsp (5 mL) Dijon mustard 2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil 2 tsp (10 mL) chopped dill Salt and freshly ground pepper HORSERADISH CREAM 2 tbsp (30 mL) whipping cream 2 tbsp (30 mL) plain Greek yogurt 1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juice 2 tsp (10 mL) chopped dill ½ tsp (2 mL) Dijon mustard 1 tsp (5 mL) grated horseradish TO SERVE ¼ cup (60 mL) vegetable oil

BOTTLE SHOTS BY MICHAEL MAHOVLICH

48  FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY 2015