LCBO Food and Drink Holiday 2016

HOLIDAY 2016

WHAT IF CHARCUTERIE

COULD BE SEACUTERIE?

PC ® Black Tiger Shrimp Ring

PC ® TUNA TATAKI

PC ® Maple & Rye Atlantic Salmon

In the PC ® kitchen, the more we explore, the more we discover — like our new ready-to-serve, ready-to-impress PC ® Black Tiger Shrimp Ring , PC ® Tuna Tataki and PC ® Maple & Rye Atlantic Salmon . Discover this season’s PC ® Insiders Collection TM and all-new ways to holiday at pc.ca/insiders .

All trademarks & logos are trademarks of Loblaws Inc. ©2016 Loblaws Inc.All rights reserved.

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MAKING SPIRITS BRIGHT

Discover more at a Le Creuset Boutique or find a retailer at LeCreuset.ca

Cookware | Bakeware | Tableware | Accessories

TABLE OF CONTENTS

FEATURES

118 COTTAGE HOLIDAY  By Jennifer MacKenzie

148

Ideal for a Christmas cottage getaway, this mouth-watering dinner is streamlined for easy preparation while away.

126 PREMIUM PAIRINGS 

By Lucy Waverman & James Chatto Pull out all the stops for a special dinner party with pricier proteins and wines that bring out the very best in each other.

134 THE SPICE ROUTE  By Joanne Yolles

With heady scents and complex flavours, spiced desserts are just the thing for mature palates that want a taste of sweetness after a big meal.

140 LUNCH FOR A BUNCH  By Christopher St. Onge

This tasty make-ahead menu is designed to wait at the ready on the kitchen counter—as travellers arrive home for the holidays.

148 THE REAL DEAL  By James Chatto

When true Champagne is called for, turn to LCBO Champagne buyer Igor Ryjenkov and Food & Drink Senior Editor James Chatto who taste-tested six different brands. By Christopher St. Onge Make the most of leftover holiday cheeses crowding the fridge this season with sensational comfort-food dishes. Pamper your guests with truly special cocktails that leave standard-issue vodka and cranberry juice in the dust. ON THE COVER Chestnut Gingerbread Trees, recipe on page 98. Photography by Rob Fiocca

156 GRAND FROMAGE 

162 DISTINCTIVE DRINKS  By Eshun Mott

FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY 2016 7

TABLE OF CONTENTS

TRENDS BOWLED OVER By Amy Rosen

169

Banish the rich-food fatigue that sets in over the holidays with these fresh, imaginative—and satisfying—salad bowls.

DEPARTMENTS FOOD

QUICK & EASY PARTY SNACKS By Eric Vellend

187

FLAVOURS FRUITS & NUTS By Marilyn Bentz-Crowley

45

Irresistible bar snacks that make hostessing a cocktail party a cinch—all you’ll need to do is keep replenishing bowls without skipping a beat of the conversation.

A natural pairing if ever there was one, dried fruit and nuts enhance mains, salad and dessert—ideal dishes to add to Christmas dinner or any holiday entertaining.

205 SEASONAL

SIMMERING GOODNESS By Lucy Waverman

BASICS SEASON OF SQUASH By Lucy Waverman

63

The rich flavours of long-simmered dishes require an oven and plenty of time; let dinner cook to perfection while you get things done around the house.

Imaginative dishes do mouth-watering justice to the many varieties and limitless potential of the humble squash.

ENTERTAINING BRUNCH-WICHES By Victoria Walsh

71

These sandwiches will tempt overnight guests with unique flavour combinations and enough heartiness to cover both breakfast and lunch. TWISTS THE RIGHT STUFF By Christopher St. Onge With tasteful new flavour combinations, these stuffings are roasted—and prettily served— in stand-alone dishes.

87

FESTIVE A SHOW OF COOKIES By Christopher St. Onge

95

Decorated cookie arrangements offer an easy alternative to the gingerbread house—for highly edible décor in your home over the holidays.

169

8  FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY 2016

Cushion covers

$6.99

from

SELECT STYLES.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

GIFTING SIMPLE PLEASURES By Michelle P. E.Hunt & Laura Panter Treat the cocktail lover on your list to uniquely flavoured simple syrups—each designed for a specific spirit—plus suggestions to amp up the gift with a matching bottle.

195

ENTERTAINING SWEET SATISFACTION By Charlene Rooke

213

Four variations of affogato play with combining dessert, coffee and liqueur—with effortlessly delectable effect.

IN EVERY ISSUE

EDITOR’S NOTES

14

79

A SPLASH OF LIQUEUR The heady orange flavour of classic Grand Marnier is versatile—if perhaps a tad extravagant—in the kitchen. WHAT’S NEW A selection of products from around the world available at the LCBO and Vintages. MUST-HAVES Things we love for entertaining and around the house. TRENDSPOTTING On our radar this issue—gift ideas with a charity twist.

23

DEPARTMENTS

25

DRINK

30

WINE HOLIDAY WINE RACK By James Chatto

53

Stock up with our expert’s holiday wine suggestions— you’ll discover labels you haven’t yet heard of, little-known varietals and simply great bargains. BASICS MAKE ROOM FOR BRANDY By James Chatto Those in the know realize that brandy has shaken off its stuffy image—it’s a must-have over the holidays for sipping, cocktails, cooking and gifts. BEER BOXING WEEK SPECIALS By Ian Coutts & Eshun Mott Enticing weeknight dinners that are a snap to whip up between Boxing Day and New Year’s Eve—paired with seasonal beer picks to keep things casual. SEASONAL FESTIVE REDS By Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic Bring the classic colour of the holidays into your guests’ glasses: beyond red wine, consider ruby port, red icewine and sparkling reds—superb paired with our small bites!

33

SOURCE RESOURCE

253

79

RECIPE INDEX

254

FIVE QUESTIONS WITH… Katie Wilson, owner of Soul Chocolate in Toronto, crafts and hand-wraps pure, single-origin chocolate bars.

256

103

30

177

10  FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY 2016

Give a Gift of Exceptional Taste Shop our wonderful assortment of luxe giftware and food gifts — beautifully boxed and ready for giving. Shop online November 1 to 30 and save 15%* o your order of $150 or more, with code LCBO15.

57 Yorkville Ave. • Bayview Village Shopping Centre • CF Sherway Gardens RioCan Oakville Place • 1539 Avenue Rd. (Fall 2016) • CF Toronto Eaton Centre (Fall 2016)

pusateris.com

*Before taxes and shipping. Catering and florals are excluded.

Publication Director & SVP .........Nancy Cardinal Sales, Marketing & Insights

VP Marketing ..................................Kerri Dawson Editor .................................................Jody Dunn Art Director .....................................Karen Lim Senior Editor ...................................James Chatto Food Editor .......................................Lucy Waverman Contributing Editors ....................Charlene Rooke, Kat Tancock

Publication Coordinator ............Leslie Virdo Senior Designer .............................Cathy Cicchini Graphic Designer .........................Pat Turbach Production Manager ...................Mark Greene Production Coordinator .............Judy Haverkort Publication Assistant .................Piper MacFadyen Production Assistant ...................Everton Smith Food Stylists ....................................Eshun Mott, Christopher St. Onge Prop Stylists ....................................Catherine MacFadyen, Andrea McCrindle, Lara McGraw, Shelly Shnier Contributors ...................................Julia Aitken, Marilyn Bentz-Crowley,

Ian Coutts, Cynthia David, Michelle P.E.Hunt, Anna Kohn, Signe Langford, Ann Lough, Jennifer MacKenzie, Brenda Morrison, Eshun Mott, Laura Panter, Amy Rosen, Christopher St. Onge, Eric Vellend, Victoria Walsh, Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic, Joanne Yolles

COMING NEXT ISSUE ORANGES AND LEMONS

Hot and cold citrus cocktails SWEET VALENTINES Gorgeous cakes baked for two TAKE IT EASY

Publisher ..........................................Wayne Leek

For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about LCBO products and policy please contact helloLCBO online at hellolcbo.com, or call toll-free 1•800•668•5226 or 416•365•5900. TTY Only: 416•864•6898 or 1•800•361•3291. For advertising in Food & Drink magazine, please contact Keystone Media, 416•224•1500 or e-mail foodanddrink@keystonemedia.ca. All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the LCBO’s advertising agreement. Food & Drink is published six times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Volume 24, Number 2. Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 percent post-consumer fibre. Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs.

Lower-alcohol cocktails and drinks A COMFORTABLE SEASON Winter wine styles with hearty recipes

Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Drink , 55 Lake Shore Boulevard East, Toronto, ON, M5E 1A4 ISSN 1195-5988

WATCH FOR THE WI NT E R I S S UE OF

AVA I LABLE JANUARY 1 1

Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all LCBO stores.

PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE. Cette publication est également disponible en français.

12  FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY 2016

Shop your holiday favourites online.

Now you can shop your gifting and entertaining needs from the comfort of your home at LCBO.com. Conveniently access over 4,000 of your favourite beers, wines and spirits online.

Deliver free to any store, or for a fee, right to your door.

EDITOR’S NOTES

There is much to enjoy about the holidays, but not everyone will agree on the best way to spend their time. Whether it’s hosting a fes- tive cocktail party, being in charge of the turkey this year or catching up on buzz-worthy books, TV shows and mov- ies, we all have our favourite things to do over the holidays and we’ve made an e ort to o er solutions for all your food and drink needs.    If you most look forward to the big day and a traditional meal with family coming together from near and far, we have a few options for you. Perhaps you are lucky enough to gather at the family cottage? Since you will be away from your home kitchen, our menu starting on page 118 was designed with ease of preparation in mind, but will of course work wherever you are fortu- nate enough to get together. If you’re celebrating at home, but everyone is arriving at di erent times, Christopher St. Onge’s “Lunch for a Bunch” on page 140 is ideal—featuring dishes that can all be prepped in advance and served as guests trickle in. Either way, with overnight guests, you’ll have to prepare breakfast too. “Brunch-wiches” on page 71 o ers four hearty breakfast sandwiches created for leisurely morn- ings together.

points to uncork for New Year’s Eve or any other festive occasion. Start- ing on page 162, recipe developer and food stylist Eshun Mott has created spectacular cocktails (easily trans- forming to non-alcoholic drinks) that strike just the right note as a welcome cocktail when guests arrive. “Festive Reds” on page 177 o ers an assortment of drink choices—all in sea- sonal red hues—complimented by the perfect nibble to serve alongside, mak- ing for ideal cocktail-party pairings.    If your holidays are more about a break from work and an opportunity to relax and unwind with a few indul- gences here and there, you’ll find those in this issue too. “Grand Fromage” on page 156 takes full advantage of any leftover cheeses lingering after the holi- days and transforms them into comfort food favourites. “Simmering Goodness” (page 205) o ers recipes that will fill the house with wonderful aromas while you spend the day curled up on the couch. And, back by popular demand, on page 53 is James Chatto’s annual guide to stocking up on wines you may have never heard of. When it’s time to venture outside, they are all great wines worth seeking out and sampling.    From stu ng to gifts, you’ll find so much more inside. We hope you enjoy the issue and that you find the time to do all your favourite things this holiday season!

   If holiday parties are your thing, “The Real Deal” on page 148 suggests several Champagnes at di erent price

PORTRAIT BY JAMES TSE

THE DIGITAL EDITION of this issue will be available to download November 16th . Perfect for family and friends who have seen your issue, but missed it in stores. Visit foodanddrink.ca/fddigital for more information.

FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY

Dec. 4 Ð 31, 2016

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The hand-selected wines in our Essentials Collection are the perfect solution for the holiday season. Whether you serve them at a party, share them over a great meal or give them as gifts, they’ll always be a hit. View the entire collection of 130 proven favourites, handpicked by our experts. Always available. vintages.com/essentials.

Layers of f lavour

25215

Shop online for Vintages Essentials and more at lcbo.com

Impressive Gift

Great with beef tenderloin FIRST PRESS CABERNET SAUVIGNON Napa Valley, California 188110 750 mL Full-bodied & Smooth

$24.95

Great with prime rib LUIGI BOSCA MALBEC Mendoza, Argentina 452672 750 mL Full-bodied & Smooth Great with pork roast ZENATO RIPASSA VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE Veneto, Italy 479766 750 mL $26.95 Full-bodied & Smooth $17.95

Aged to perfection

Spicy & Elegant

Great with roast rack of lamb TORRES GRAN CORONAS RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON DO Penedès, Spain 36483 750 mL Full-bodied & Smooth

$19.95

Prices subject to change without notice. Available in Vintages locations at select LCBO stores.

The best of the season fromour farm to your table. Choose local Ontario pork.

It’s just that good.

ontariopork.com/recipes

Ontario Pork Loin with Maple Cranberry-Infused Chutney

Yield: Serves 8 Cooking Time: 20 minutes Preparation Time: 10 minutes

Pork Loin Chops: 8 bone-in Ontario pork loin chops, about 4 lb (2 kg) 2 Tbsp (30 mL) vegetable oil 3/4 tsp (4 mL) EACH: salt and pepper

CranberryMaple Chutney: 1 Tbsp (15 mL) vegetable oil

1/3 cup (75 mL) orange juice

1 small onion, nely chopped

1/2 tsp (2 mL) ground cinnamon

2 cups (500 g) dried cranberries

1/4 tsp (1 mL) EACH: ground nutmeg and dry mustard

3 Tbsp (45 mL) white vinegar

3 Tbsp (45 mL) maple syrup

2 tsp (10 mL) nely grated orange zest

Cooking Instructions Pork Loin Chops: 1. Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Season pork chops evenly with salt and pepper. 2. Heat oil in a grill pan set over medium-high heat. Brown the pork chops, in batches, on both sides and transfer to a rack on a rimmed baking sheet. Cook for 10 to 12 minutes or until an instant-read thermometer registers 160°F (71°C).

3. Let pork rest for 5 minutes before serving with chutney.

CranberryMaple Chutney: 1. Heat oil in a large non-stick skillet set over medium heat. Add the onions and cook for 7 to 10 minutes or until very soft. 2. Add the cranberries, vinegar, orange zest, orange juice, cinnamon, nutmeg and mustard. Simmer for 5 minutes or until cranberries plump and start to break up. 3. Stir in maple syrup and remove from heat; cool completely.

* Serve with your favourite roasted root vegetables.

A SPLASH OF LIQUEUR BY SIGNE LANGFORD  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

THE PROOF IS IN THE FLAVOUR WHEN YOU COOK WITH GRAND MARNIER.

A most refined liqueur, Grand Marnier ( LCBO 12195, 375 mL, $23.95) is a warming, not-too-sweet blend of fine Cognac, bitter orange essence and sugar. Created in 1808 by the house of Marnier-Lapostolle, just outside Paris, it’s complex, lovely on ice and tasty in a cocktail, but don’t relegate this kind of decadence to the bar! The heady orange flavour of classic Grand Marnier is versatile—if perhaps a tad extrava- gant—in the kitchen. But we can’t think of a better time than the holidays for a little extravagance; can you?     With Grand Marnier in hand, we’ve had some fun with a French culinary classic— duck à l’orange—adding pan-Asian flavours, crispy textures and bright, fresh ingredients. This updated, world-travelled version is perfect as a two-bite passed hors d’oeuvre, an appetizer or even as a light, festive entrée salad. And with Grand Marnier in both the mari­ nade and vinaigrette, the subtle orangey sweetness comes through, complementing the richness of duck without overpowering the freshness of raw, delicate jicama and daikon.

GRAND MARNIER- MARINATED PULLED DUCK WITH ASIAN-STYLE SLAW ON CRISPY WON TONS recipe on page 252

FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY 2016 23

WHAT’S NEW BY JULIA AITKEN  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE

A WORLD OF NEW PRODUCTS AT THE LCBO AND VINTAGES.

A WINE WITH POLISH

Gentlemen’s Collection Cabernet Sauvignon LCBO 461533, $17.95

Iconic Australian winery Lindeman’s has intro- duced a new eye-catching line in homage to its founder Dr. Lindeman, who set out to refine a col- ony of hard-drinking ruffians. Notes of blue fruit and aromas of violet herald flavours of stewed fruit that work well with a wintry pasta or cheese platter. Dr. Lindeman would approve.

GIFT LIST ASSIST Wayne Gretzky Red Cask Whisky LCBO 472332, $34.95

First Press Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 188110, $24.95 This new addition to the Vintages Essentials Collection offers incredible value for a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Full of juicy dark fruit flavours, with notes of spice and milk chocolate, it’s a rich, well-balanced red with great length. Look no further for the ideal match with your holiday prime rib roast or rack of lamb. FOR A FESTIVE FEAST

For the Great One’s signature whis- ky, a blend of aged ryes made from locally sourced grains is finished in hand-charred red-wine barrels from theWayne Gretzky Estates winery in Niagara. The result is a smooth, complex spirit with notes of subtle oak and sweet vanilla that would thrill the whisky lover on your list.

FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY 2016 25

WHAT ’ S NEW

MADE FOR GIFTING

Château Saint-Roch Chimères 2014 VINTAGES 119354, $19.95

Here’s a treat for the red-wine aficionados on your gift list. The year 2014 was a tricky vintage, but this blend—mostly Grenache with a touch of Syrah and Mourvèdre—is aged to great effect in concrete and oak to achieve flavours and aromas of raspberry, violet, licorice and olive. Ready now or age for up to four years.

HEARTH-SIDE SIPPER Diplomático Reserva Exclusiva Rum  LCBO 366633, $57.95

IN GRAND STYLE

Venezuela produces wonderful rum and this elegant example is made for sipping— neat or on the rocks—in front of the fire. Twelve years in oak give the spirit complex aromas of maple syrup, orange zest, brown sugar and licorice, a toffee-fudge flavour and satisfy- ingly long finish. Try it in your favourite rum cocktails, too.

Piccini Villa al Cortile Brunello di Montalcino DOCG LCBO 434696, $35.95 This true-blue Brunello is fan- tastic value, a great festive pour and the perfect gift. Brunellomust spend two years in the barrel and can’t be released until its fifth year after harvest. The result is a full, ripe red with softer tannins. Look for licorice and black cherry on the palate, and serve with game or strong cheese.

26  FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY 2016

WHAT ’ S NEW

Welly Re-Booted Mix Pack  LCBO 479436, 4 pk, $9.95 Just in time for festive entertaining, here’s a seasonal four-pack of craft beers from Canada’s oldest independently owned microbrewery. Featuring unique small-batch brews with distinct profiles, the pack includes something for every beer lover: Terrestrial India Brown Ale, S’Wheat Thang, Chocolate Milk Stout and Quick Brown Fox Extra Special Bitter. KICK-START THE SEASON

RED FOR THE HOLIDAYS Sandbanks French Kiss Cabernet-Merlot VQA LCBO 361881, $19.95 The Sandbanks brand fromPrince Edward County is an LCBO cus- tomer favourite and this stellar sipper is sure to be popular this holidays. The blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvi- gnon has notes of ripe plum, black pepper and smoked meat. Tuck it under the tree for the red-wine lovers in your life.

COOKIE IN A BOTTLE Vodka Mudshake Toasted Gingerbread LCBO 465088, 4 pk, $11.95 All the sweet spiciness of festive gingerbread highlights this new flavour from the popular Vodka Mudshake brand. Smooth and creamy, the premixed beverage comes in a handy four-pack format just made for sharing or gifting. Your friends will love that it’s equally delicious chilled or warm.

28  FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY 2016

MUST HAVES BY BRENDA MORRISON • PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE

FROM PRETTY PRESENTATIONS TO PRACTICAL PRESENTS, GREAT FINDS FOR THE HOLIDAYS.

CENTRE OF ATTENTION The best centrepieces can be viewed from all angles, making this snow globe (or multiple snow globes) a smart choice. Fill with anything from small tree ornaments to peppermint candies—and add a warm glow with battery-powered LED string lights. Look for the DIY Snow Globe, $26.50, from Lee Valley Tools (Toronto, 800•267•8767, leevalley.com).

LUXE DELIGHTS Check out the ultimate Christmas crackers for cooks and foodies! These luxury handmade crackers ($125, box of 6) from Thornback & Peel each contain a practical kitchen treat, such as a citrus reamer or vegetable brush. Available at Hopson Grace (Toronto, 416•926•1120, hopsongrace.com).

JINGLE BELL TIME Oh what fun! Instantly add festive flair to your drinks and food with Jingle Bell cocktail stir sticks ($19.95, set of 4) and match- ing cocktail picks ($14.95, set of 4) for garnishes and appetizers. Available in silver and red at Linen Chest (linenchest.com).

SEE SOURCE RESOURCE

FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY

SMALL WONDER Know someone who would love a stand mixer but doesn’t have the storage or counter space? KitchenAid now offers a smaller version of its iconic mixer. The Artisan Mini Stand Mixer ($549) is 20 percent smaller and features a 3½-quart capacity. This is proof that good things come in small packages. To find a retailer or shop online, visit kitchenaid.ca.

COOL TOOLS Muddling over what to give an avid mixologist for Christmas? Equip them with any one of these Old-Fashioned Wooden Muddlers ($28.50 each) from Two’s Company. A perfect stock- ing stuffer or hostess gift. For retailers, call 800•663•9950.

COATS? CHECK! When hosting a party, over-the-door coat hooks are a brilliant storage solution. Let guests hang their coats on a hook at the front door (rather than adding them to a heap on a bed). It’s an ideal temporary solution that doesn’t require nails to attach to the door or a wall. We like these double hooks from iQliving, $6.99 each, iqliving.com.

GREAT IMPRESSIONS Can’t find a gift bag for the wine you’re taking to a party? No worries! A stylish handmade gift tag is all that’s needed when you’ve got this spirited “Cheers!” stamp ($22) on hand. Available at Brika (Toronto, brika.com). Also use it on invitations, cocktail napkins or even kraft paper to create your own signature gift wrap.

discover our FAMILY

the Maverick Whisky Makers of Dufftown.

SKILFULLY CRAFTED. ENJOY RESPONSIBLY. Glenfiddich ® Single Malt Scotch Whisky is a registered trademark of William Grant & Sons Ltd. glenfiddich.ca

TREND SPOTTING BY KAT TANCOCK  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE

WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR FROM THE WORLD OF FOOD AND DRINK.

Struggling to find gift ideas that are meaningful? This holiday season, consider pur- chasing presents that give twice—not just to the recipient, but to a worthy cause as well. ShareBasket gift baskets from Toronto’s FoodShare, for instance, include such delectable goodies as seasonal jams, granola, biscotti, pickled vegetables and tea. But the real treat is that proceeds from the baskets go straight to the organization’s school lunch program, providing healthy meals to students in need. From $50, foodshare.net

FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY 2016 33

TREND SPOTT ING

For the birds and the bees Help local species survive and thrive by purchasing food and drink prod- ucts aimed at conservation and preservation.    The Atwood Blend from Ontario co ee purveyors Balzac’s doesn’t just carry the Smithsonian Institute’s Bird

Friendly label (meaning it’s 100 percent shade-grown and organic, preserving habitats for migratory

birds), but also raises funds for the Pelee Island Bird Observatory ($18 for 454 g, shop.balzacs.com).    To help preserve vulnerable honeybees, Toronto Bee Rescue humanely relocates swarms and hives from where they aren’t wanted (homes, sheds and decks) to suitable locations. And a portion of proceeds from sales of honey and honey products like vinegar goes toward their programs. $11 for vinegar and from $5 for honey, at farmer’s markets and myhoneycreations.com.

Lest we forget

A partner organization of Toronto-based Free the Children, Me to We is a social enterprise whose mission includes helping consumers make choices that have a positive global impact. The colourful cotton Indego Africa wine bag ($15), for instance, is made by female artisans in Rwanda, while the hand-screen-printed Vanna Tea Towel ($24) is made of repurposed remnant linen by marginalized women in Cambodia; shop.metowe.com. GLOBAL OUTLOOK [ HOSTESS GIFTS ]

National non-profit Wounded Warriors Canada runs programs to support ill and injured soldiers, veterans, first responders and their families—and three products in-store this season help raise money for the cause:

Southpaw Heroes Blonde Lager LCBO 464032, 473 mL, $2.75

Glenfiddich Single Malt 15 Years Old LCBO 605972, $79.95

Royal City Brewing Remembrance Red LCBO 479188, 650 mL, $5.95

FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY

TREND SPOTT ING

Experiential gifts Toronto’s Chef & Somm offers catering and som- melier services as well as workshops covering topics such as wine-and-cheese pairing (from $55 per person) and chocolate tasting ($65 per person), with a portion of proceeds going to refugee sup- port organization Sojourn House. It’s the perfect gift for groups of friends or family or a holiday party alternative for staff and coworkers. chefsomm.ca

INSPIRED GIVING [ STOCKING STUFFER ]

Half the proceeds from ChocolaChocola truffled milk chocolate grahams (75 g, $7.99, at McEwan Foods and chocolachocola.com) go to The Shoebox Project, which coor­ dinates delivery of hand-filled gift boxes to women living in shelters in more than 35 locations in Canada.

Supporting children’s charities

Profits from wines made by Mike Weir Winery in Niagara go to the Mike Weir Foundation, which is dedicated to advanc- ing the mental, physical and educational welfare of children and also sup- ports local and national children’s charities.    Keep an eye out for wines from Okanagan winery Tinhorn Creek (not shown). They donate 2.5 percent of net revenue to the Boys and Girls Clubs

of Canada, supporting initiatives such as the Beltline Youth Centre in Calgary, which pro- vides social, educa- tional and creative programming to youth aged 12 to 24.    In stark contrast to its name, Niagara winery Megalomaniac raises funds for the Kids’ Health Links Foundation, which provides kids in hospital with technology so they can stay in touch with family and friends.

36  FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY 2016

mini baguette crisps

ACE Mini Baguette Crisps have all the taste of our signature baguettes in a single bite. Thinly sliced and toasted, they’re perfect for holiday appetizers, dips or everyday snacking.

Whatever your craft, do it well.

Game changer.

IntroducIng Wayne gretzky no. 99 ‘red cask’ canadIan WhIsky.

THE $17 SOLUTION

The resourceful buyers at Vintages remove the guesswork from your entertaining equation with two big reds whose provenance, quality and character make them superb values at this price. vintages.com/17

Featured products may not be available in all V intages locations. Visit vintages.com for availability and store locations. Prices subject to change.

24530

GREEN LIGHT This fine Cab Sauv is made with grapes from a certified sustainably farmed vineyard in Paso Robles where a historic adobe house (hence the winery’s name, Clayhouse) adorns the landscape. CLAYHOUSE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014 Red Cedar Vineyard, Paso Robles, California Juicy, with black cherry and ripe plum flavours. Excellent with roast beef or venison.

Full-bodied & Smooth 57869 (D) 750 mL 2 JUST $17

FRENCH CONNECTION Raised in the vineyards of the Languedoc, winemaker Gérard Bertrand has made it his mission to reveal the region’s unique terroirs through his wines, such as this food-friendly Grenache- Syrah-Mourvèdre blend.

GÉRARD BERTRAND CAP INSULA 2013 AC Languedoc, France Well balancedwith flavours of black fruit and hints of black tea. Perfect with beef stew. Medium-bodied & Fruity 474973 (XD) 750 mL 2 JUST $17 90 points (winespectator.com)

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W W W . A LWAY S F I N A L T O U C H . C O M

FOOD FLAVOURS

BY MARILYN BENTZ-CROWLEY • PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE FRUITS NUTS Fruits and nuts are among themost versatile of food pairings, adapting to both sweets and savouries. A walk through a health-food or bulk-food store reveals an enormous number of dried fruits, from extremely sweet kiwi and papaya to tangy cantaloupe and goldenberries (the dried form of ground cherries). Match these naturally coloured fruits with whatever nut suits your fancy.

LAMB TRIANGOLI WITH BROWN BUTTER & PARMESAN recipe on page 249

FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY

FLAVOURS  FRUITS & NUTS

TOSSED SALAD WITH HARVEST NUTS & CRANBERRIES

4 Break up fruit and nut mixture into small clusters; store sealed in canning jars. Mixture keeps well for a month if stored airtight. 5 When ready to serve, place greens in a large salad bowl. Whisk oil with vinegar, ma- ple syrup, salt and pepper. Drizzle vinaigrette over salad to taste; toss. Sprinkle with some nut mixture; serve right away. Any remaining vinaigrette can be stored in the refrigerator. Makes 4 cups (1 L) nut mixture; salad serves 8 to 10 WHAT TO SERVE Bricklayer’s Predicament Pinot Grigio-Chardonnay VQA LCBO 371567, $13.95 Ghost Pines Chardonnay Winemaker’s Blend LCBO 308122, $19.95

⅓ cup (80 mL) olive oil ¼ cup (60 mL) balsamic vinegar 2 tsp (10 mL) maple syrup ¼ tsp (1 mL) salt Several grindings of black pepper 1 Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).

This delicious fruit and nut mixture to add to tossed salads is a signature dish of Chef Joanna Ward Malan. Personalize the salad with additional items such as sliced Bosc pear or crisp apple, diced ripe avocado and crum- bled feta cheese. The nut mixture combina- tion can be changed based on what’s on hand. NUTS & FRUIT ½ cup (125 mL) each of pine nuts, coarsely chopped hazelnuts, sliced or slivered almonds, pumpkin seeds and sunflower seeds 2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil

2 Combine pine nuts, hazelnuts, almonds, pumpkin seeds and sunflower seeds in a large bowl. Mix olive oil with maple syrup, brown sugar, salt and paprika in a small saucepan; place over medium heat for 3 to 5 minutes un- til hot, but not boiling. 3 Pour hot mixture over nuts and seeds; toss until coated. Turn out onto parchment-paper- lined, rimmed baking sheet; spread out in a thin layer. Bake 10 minutes, then stir and spread out again. Bake another 10 to 12 min- utes or until lightly browned. Remove from oven and sprinkle with cranberries; cool.

3 tbsp (45 mL) maple syrup 2 tbsp (30 mL) brown sugar ½ tsp (2 mL) salt

¾ tsp (4 mL) hot-smoked or regular paprika ½ to ¾ cup (125 to 175 mL) dried cranberries or cherries SALAD 12 to 16 cups (3 to 4 L) mixed salad greens

46  FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY 2016

FLAVOURS  FRUITS & NUTS

SPATCHCOCKED CAPON WITH ZA’ATAR & RICE STUFFING

3 cups (750 mL) chopped fresh pita bread, in ¾ inch (2 cm) squares 2 tbsp (30 mL) butter, melted GRAVY 3 to 4 cups (750 mL to 1 L) cool capon or chicken stock ½ cup (125 mL) all-purpose flour 1 Preheat oven to 450°F (230°C). 2 Place wire rack on rimmed deep baking sheet or shallow pan large enough to hold ca- pon flat. Use bones to make stock or discard. 3 Pat capon dry with paper towels; using the tip of a sharp knife, cut tiny slits into skin about 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart. Rub skin with oil. Season with pinches of salt and grindings of black pepper; rub in za’atar. Tuck wing tips behind; place capon flat on rack with legs splayed out to side. 4 Pour 1 cup (250 mL) of water into roast- ing pan beneath capon. Roast for 30 minutes; then turn oven down to 350°F (180°C). Set timer for 30 minutes; then add another cup (250 mL) of water to pan. Continue roasting for 15 to 30 minutes or until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the deepest part of the breast registers 150°F (65°C), and the thighs register 165°F (74°C). 5 Sauté stuffing vegetables in oil over medium heat for 5 minutes or until softened. Mix with rice, nuts and fruit. Stir paprika, za’atar, salt and pepper into broth. Pour over rice mixture and toss. Turn into greased or buttered baking dish; level. Toss pita squares with melted but- ter; scatter atop rice and cover. Bake in 350°F (180°C) oven for 30 to 40 minutes or until hot.

Have the butcher remove the backbone and breastbone of the capon and then flatten the bird. Za’atar can be purchased at specialty shops and is a mixture of dried herbs and sea- sonings such as thyme, sumac, cumin, salt, black pepper and sesame seeds. A mixture of rice in the stuffing is extra-interesting— try white long-grained rice (basmati or con­ verted) with hearty red rice (Thai or Wehani). For dried natural fruit in the stuffing, choose from currants, goldenberries, apples, apricots and pears.

Then remove cover and continue baking for 10 minutes or pita is golden and crisp. 6 Transfer roasted capon (still on rack) to a large shallow pan. Allow to rest at room tem- perature for 20 minutes before carving. Pour collected juices from roasting pan into a mea- suring cup. Skim off fat; discard. 7 Pour hot juices into a saucepan along with 2 cups (500 mL) cool broth; bring to a boil. Stir flour into remaining 1 cup (250 mL) of cold broth; stir into boiling broth, whisking con- stantly. Bring back to a brisk simmer; taste and add seasonings as needed. Keep hot. 8 Carve capon; serve with stuffing and pass gravy in a pitcher. Side dishes can include squash, green beans and mashed potatoes. Serves 6 to 8 TIP  Cook, in separate pans, 1 cup (250 mL) basmati rice and 1 cup (250 mL) Thai red rice, each with 1¼ cups (310 mL) water. Wash each rice in a sieve, bring measured water to a boil in separate pans; add one kind of rice to each pan. Cover and reduce heat to medium-low for 25 minutes. Then remove top, fluff and allow rice to cool to room temperature.

CAPON 1 spatchcocked (flattened) capon, 6 to 8 lbs (2.7 to 3.5 kg) 1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil Salt and freshly ground pepper 2 tbsp (30 mL) za’atar 2 cups (500 mL) water, divided

STUFFING ½ cup (125 mL) diced onion ½ cup (125 mL) diced celery ½ cup (125 mL) diced carrot 2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil 6 cups (1.5 L) cool firm-cooked rice, preferably a mixture of different types (see TIP) ¾ cup (175 mL) shelled pistachios or toasted slivered almonds ¾ cup (175 mL) diced dried natural fruit

WHAT TO SERVE Tawse Sketches of Niagara Riesling VQA VINTAGES 89029, $18.20 Pelee Island Traminer Muscat VQA LCBO 411744, $13.95

½ tsp (2 mL) paprika ½ tsp (2 mL) za’atar ½ tsp (2 mL) salt ½ tsp (2 mL) pepper 1 cup (250 mL) capon or chicken broth

48  FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY 2016

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FLAVOURS  FRUITS & NUTS

POUND CAKE WITH CHOCOLATE, CHERRIES & PECANS

5 Fold flour mixture into butter mixture until just incorporated. Evenly turn out batter into pan; smooth top. Bake 70 to 80 minutes or until a cake tester comes out clean. Cool on a rack for 15 minutes, then turn out to continue cool­ ing on the rack. 6 For decorative drizzle, pour cream into a glass measure; add chocolate. Microwave 30 seconds; stir. Microwave another 20 sec­ onds; stir until smooth. Using a spoon, drizzle overtop fully cooled cake. Place cake in a cool location (but not in the fridge); drizzle sets firmly in 2 to 3 hours. Covered, cake keeps well at room temperature for several days. Makes 1 cake, 20 to 24 pieces

CHOCOLATE DRIZZLE ¼ cup (60 mL) 35% whipping cream 3 oz (90 g) semi-sweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped 1 Preheat oven to 325°F (160°C). 2 Place eggs still in shells in a small bowl; temper by adding hot tap water to cover. When ready to use eggs, drain and discard water. In a large mixing bowl, stir flour well with baking powder; add cherries, chocolate and pecans. Toss and set aside. 3 Preferably using a stand mixer, cream but­ ter for 5 minutes, stopping and scraping down the sides twice, or until lighter in colour and somewhat fluffy. Add sugar in 2 batches, beat­ ing after each addition. Beat in cream cheese until fluffy; then beat in vanilla and salt. 4 Add eggs, 1 at a time, beating after each ad­ dition. Meanwhile, grease and flour a 10-inch (25-cm) Bundt pan.

Banish thoughts of heavy Christmas fruit cakes, as this one is light in both colour and texture. Feel free to play around with the dried fruit, chocolate and nut combination. How­ ever, do buy exceptional chocolate such as Callebault or Lindt for best flavour. CAKE 4 eggs 2 cups (500 mL) sifted cake flour 1½ tsp (7 mL) baking powder ⅔ cup (150 mL) sweetened dried Montmorency cherries 3 oz (90 g) semi-sweet chocolate, chopped, about ⅔ cup (150 mL) 1 cup (250 mL) pecans ¾ cup (175 mL) softened unsalted butter, about 6 oz (175 g)

WHAT TO SERVE Taylor Fladgate Late Bottled Vintage Port LCBO 46946, $18.10 Sinful Cherry LCBO 421982, $34.75

1¼ cups (310 mL) granulated sugar 1 pkg (250 g) softened cream cheese 1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla ½ tsp (2 mL) salt

50  FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY 2016

for the INDEPENDENTLY MINDED

Available now at the LCBO LCBO# 365312

WINE HOLIDAY WINE RACK DRINK WINE

RACK HOLIDAY

WINE

BY JAMES CHATTO • PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE

OUR EXPERT’S ANNUAL GUIDE TO STOCKING UP WITH TERRIFIC BOTTLES FOR THE HOLIDAYS, WHETHER THEY’RE LABELS YOU HAVEN’T YET HEARD OF, LITTLE- KNOWN VARIETALS OR SIMPLY GREAT BARGAINS. Tradition is a wonderful thing, but not if it grows too predictable and repetitive. This is a great time of year to break away from the humdrum and experiment with wines—and grape varieties—you may never have tried before. I’ve put together a case of that I particularly like—all of them good value, perfect for a party or everyday drinking, and all exceedingly food-friendly. Eleven of them are from the Old World, because that’s where lo- cal, indigenous grape varieties are most valued, even if they haven’t left home and become world-famous stars. Try one or two or try them all—and start some new holiday season traditions.

FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY

WINE HOLIDAY WINE RACK

boxing day LUNCH

CHAPOUTIER BELLERUCHE CÔTES -DU- RHÔNE WHITE AOC LCBO 245340, $16.95 Maison M. Chapoutier is best known as a producer of splendid Hermitage wines in the northern Rhône valley and for being a staunch advocate of biodynamic farming. This white is from farther south, a dry blend of local varieties Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Bourboulenc with a smooth, round, middleweight body and a good long finish. I love its unique braid of aromas and flavours—mandarin orange, peach blossom, peach pits, a hit of Granny Smith acidity at the end. It’s perfect for a Boxing Day lunch of cold ham and salads and a fine match for soft goat cheese.

CUSUMANO NERO D’AVOLA TERRE SICILANE IGT LCBO 143164, $13.10

Entry-level in terms of price, but this honest, well-balanced Nero d’Avola is a good introduction to Sicily’s great red hope, a grape that can take the island’s heat without losing its food-friendly acidity. Smooth, full-bodied and full of black fruit and dark chocolate flavours.

BOUTARI MOSCHOFILERO WHITE LCBO 172387, $13.10 Moschofilero grows best in the high, parched vineyards of the Peloponnese, producing dry, perfumed floral white wines that have the scent of white flowers and orange blossom. A spine of minerality and a sly acidity lend struc- ture to the delicate texture and carry this wine to the dinner table, especially if shellfish or mild white cheeses are on the menu. A breath of summer in the midst of the Canadian winter!

FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY

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WINE  HOLIDAY WINE RACK

DOPFF & IRION CRYSTAL D’ALSACE SYLVANER LCBO 35667, $14.10 Silky, weighty, subtle… But there’s a muscular acidity hold­ ing it all together. Sylvaner is often seen as Riesling’s less- talented kid brother and I can’t really argue with that. But this wine has a place in our case. That tang and the big body make it a natural choice for shrimp or calamari dishes. The aroma reminds me of cutting up a fresh peach.

VELLETRI TERRE DEI VOLSCI RI SERVA DOP LCBO 175141, $15.00 The Volsci gave ancient Rome plenty of trouble in the 5th century B.C. Today, their land is better known for vineyards and especially for this red, a rich, ripe mé- lange of Sangiovese, Merlot and an antique local grape that is acquiring a modern cult following, Cesanese. Velletri puts the wine into a bottle with a whimsically crooked neck (we’d have used it as a candlestick in the 1970s) and indeed there is something old- fashioned about the vino itself. It’s full-bodied and fruity with plenty of cherry and red berry flavours but no obvious tannins and only a gentle acidity. Great with a spaghetti bolognese.

Lush red FROM LAZIO

QUINTA DA AVELEDA VINHO VERDE LCBO 89995, $11.45

Sometimes you find a vinho verde that offers more than tart, light- weight refreshment. This one does. A blend of Loureiro and Alvarinho, it has the racy acidity but also an intensity of citrus, green apple and even tropical flavours. It’s a lovely aperitif with salty ham, oysters or as a contrast to rich cheese straws.

56  FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY 2016

Apple Cranberry Crisp | 11 g of fibre

Chicken Parmesan | 5 g of fibre

Good things come from

Ultimate Burger | 11 g of fibre

allbran.ca/recipes

/allbranca

*© 2016, Trademark of Kellogg Company used under licence by Kellogg Canada Inc.

WINE HOLIDAY WINE RACK

before DINNER

LUSTAU DON NUÑO DRY OLOROSO

SHERRY LCBO 375105, $15.65

A splendid wine and the big- gest bargain in the box, Don Nuño brings everything you’d expect from the esteemed house of Lustau. This is a contradictory style of sherry. From the weight, you might expect lush sweetness. Instead, it’s bone-dry but full-bodied and rich with a powerful acidity that lets it stand up to anything from curried fish to roast beef. The aromas and flavours are what the fuss is all about—wal- nuts, dried apricots, oak barrels, orange peel dipped in dark chocolate… Don’t bother with a Martini before dinner; have a glass of this instead!

BACALHÔA TINTO DA ÂNFORA LCBO 227256, $11.95 Here’s a juicy, well-knit blend of Ara- gonez, Touriga Nacional, Trincadeira and Cabernet Sauvignon from Por- tugal’s Alentejo region. Six months in new French oak impart a spicy depth and a hint of vanilla, enriching the intense flavours of blackcurrant, cherry and plum. Great solo or with red meats or sausages.

CHIVITE GRAN FEUDO ROSÉ LCBO 165845, $12.10 Gotta have a rosé in the case—now that the world has admitted you can drink pink wine at any time of the year! This one’s made in Na- varra, Spain, from Garnacha and it’s refreshingly dry and juicy with a delightful note of strawberry. But don’t call it a wuss; yes, it’s a lovely aperitif but it has the structure to handle seafood and salmon and a turkey sandwich on Boxing Day.

FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY

WINE  HOLIDAY WINE RACK

TSANTALI RAPSANI LCBO 392167, $13.20

The ancient and once-prized vine- yards of Rapsani, in the foothills of Mount Olympus, were rescued from near oblivion by the wine-producing family firm of Tsantali in the 1990s. Thank goodness! Or we wouldn’t have this charming and versatile blend of Xinomavro, Kras­ sato and Stavrato. Six months of oak gives a subtle complexity behind the red berry façade, but the wine remains easily accessible, great for parties and pizza.

DELAFORCE TINTO DOURO LCBO 332585, $13.15 The last time I was in Portugal’s Douro valley there was much ex- citement about the new breed of premium red table wines being made there from the same grapes as port, the work of many young winemakers col- lectively known as “the Douro boys.” Delaforce has been doing exactly that since 1868. This latest example is a field blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinta Roriz, thick-skinned black grapes that give wines of intense colour and, in the drought-affected 2012 vintage, unexpected acidity. There’s a hint of spicy sandalwood under the opulent damson, mulberry and red berry fruit and a smoothly elegant texture despite the big body. Successful food matches would certainly include roast duck or any kind of firm, nippy cheese.

premium PORTUGAL

CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES ALIGOTÉ VQA LCBO 296848, $14.95 Burgundian Chardonnay’s younger sister does beautifully at Niagara’s own château (and nowhere else in Canada). Fresh, simple and with a zingy acid- ity, it reminds me of a Granny Smith apple crossed with a firm Bosc pear. It’s a natural match for green salads and surprising- ly good with Malpeque oysters.

60  FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY 2016