LCBO Food and Drink Holiday 2016

cristal brut vintage champagne 2007 VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 268755, $301.95

TASTING NOTES The mousse is so fine it’s little more than a light foam on the tongue, but the length is remarkably persistent. “It has such an amazing nose,” says Igor, “but all the effects are beautifully subtle yet somehow profound. I get apple, yellow plum, a touch of mush- room, buttery, freshly baked brioche and a hint of lemon preserve.” It’s true! Though my mind interpreted it as the smell of lemon marmalade spread onto toast. Cristal is already at least nine years old when it’s released; a little longer in the cellar will enhance things even further.

A giant leap up in price takes us into the world of Vintage Champagne, luxury cuvées and the always superlative Cristal. In 1876, Tsar Alexander II first commissioned a specially blended Champagne in a clear, flat-bottomed crystal bottle, both of which would be unique to his court. After the Russian Revolution, the wine had to wait until 1945 to make its triumphant return, as a brut, not stickily sweet the way the Tsar preferred it. The 2007 is made from the best grapes from Louis Roederer’s own grand crus vineyards, 58 percent Pinot Noir, 42 percent Chardonnay, and has a gorgeous golden colour.

152  FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY 2016