LCBO Food and Drink Holiday 2016

champagne tarlant brut reserve LCBO 325167, $43.00

This is a “grower’s Champagne,” meaning it’s made only with grapes from the vineyards of the producer, in this case the Tarlant family, who have been in the business since 1687. The fashion in Europe these days is to seek out such lesser-known names, partly because they are less pricey than the big stars and also because the wines often show delightful, or even eccentric individuality. Because Tarlant use only their own wines, they add an unusually high ratio (45 percent) of reserve wines from previous years to get the variety they need to create their assem­ blage, some of which have been aged in oak, result­ ing in great maturity and complexity upon release.

TASTING NOTES The dosage (the little bit of extra, sweetened wine added at the end of the Champagne process) is also very dry, points out Igor, “and there is no malolactic fermentation, so instead of creamy, buttery acidity, it’s crisper, more like a green apple.” That ringing acidity carries right through each sip, dragging all sorts of aromatics with it—mushroom and butter, rye bread again, lemon… “And the mousse is so fine,” points out Igor. “Like a foam, not at all aggressive.” This is a Champagne of great character, a wine that won’t be taken for granted but will inspire conversation among connoisseurs.

154  FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY 2016