LCBO Food and Drink Holiday 2016

WINE  HOLIDAY WINE RACK

DOPFF & IRION CRYSTAL D’ALSACE SYLVANER LCBO 35667, $14.10 Silky, weighty, subtle… But there’s a muscular acidity hold­ ing it all together. Sylvaner is often seen as Riesling’s less- talented kid brother and I can’t really argue with that. But this wine has a place in our case. That tang and the big body make it a natural choice for shrimp or calamari dishes. The aroma reminds me of cutting up a fresh peach.

VELLETRI TERRE DEI VOLSCI RI SERVA DOP LCBO 175141, $15.00 The Volsci gave ancient Rome plenty of trouble in the 5th century B.C. Today, their land is better known for vineyards and especially for this red, a rich, ripe mé- lange of Sangiovese, Merlot and an antique local grape that is acquiring a modern cult following, Cesanese. Velletri puts the wine into a bottle with a whimsically crooked neck (we’d have used it as a candlestick in the 1970s) and indeed there is something old- fashioned about the vino itself. It’s full-bodied and fruity with plenty of cherry and red berry flavours but no obvious tannins and only a gentle acidity. Great with a spaghetti bolognese.

Lush red FROM LAZIO

QUINTA DA AVELEDA VINHO VERDE LCBO 89995, $11.45

Sometimes you find a vinho verde that offers more than tart, light- weight refreshment. This one does. A blend of Loureiro and Alvarinho, it has the racy acidity but also an intensity of citrus, green apple and even tropical flavours. It’s a lovely aperitif with salty ham, oysters or as a contrast to rich cheese straws.

56  FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY 2016