LCBO Food and Drink Holiday 2016

WINE  HOLIDAY WINE RACK

TSANTALI RAPSANI LCBO 392167, $13.20

The ancient and once-prized vine- yards of Rapsani, in the foothills of Mount Olympus, were rescued from near oblivion by the wine-producing family firm of Tsantali in the 1990s. Thank goodness! Or we wouldn’t have this charming and versatile blend of Xinomavro, Kras­ sato and Stavrato. Six months of oak gives a subtle complexity behind the red berry façade, but the wine remains easily accessible, great for parties and pizza.

DELAFORCE TINTO DOURO LCBO 332585, $13.15 The last time I was in Portugal’s Douro valley there was much ex- citement about the new breed of premium red table wines being made there from the same grapes as port, the work of many young winemakers col- lectively known as “the Douro boys.” Delaforce has been doing exactly that since 1868. This latest example is a field blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinta Roriz, thick-skinned black grapes that give wines of intense colour and, in the drought-affected 2012 vintage, unexpected acidity. There’s a hint of spicy sandalwood under the opulent damson, mulberry and red berry fruit and a smoothly elegant texture despite the big body. Successful food matches would certainly include roast duck or any kind of firm, nippy cheese.

premium PORTUGAL

CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES ALIGOTÉ VQA LCBO 296848, $14.95 Burgundian Chardonnay’s younger sister does beautifully at Niagara’s own château (and nowhere else in Canada). Fresh, simple and with a zingy acid- ity, it reminds me of a Granny Smith apple crossed with a firm Bosc pear. It’s a natural match for green salads and surprising- ly good with Malpeque oysters.

60  FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY 2016