LCBO Food & Drink Holiday 2021

PARIS-BREST This is one of my favourite celebratory desserts. Named after a bicycle race, Paris-Brest is much easier to make than it appears but is a jaw-­ dropping beauty when complete. Other than a pastry bag and tips, you need little in the way of special equipment to achieve pastry-chef- worthy results. Knock off a couple of the com- ponents well in advance, and there will be little left to do on serving day. The Hazelnut Praliné makes double the amount you need (in order to ensure there are enough nuts and caramel to make things go round in the food processor); spread the rest on buttered toast. 1/4 cup (60 mL) water 1 cup (250 mL) sugar 1 1/2 cups (375 mL) toasted skinned hazelnuts HAZELNUT CREAM 1 1/3 cups (330 mL) milk 1 tbsp (15 mL) instant coffee 1/4 cup (60 mL) sugar 4 egg yolks 3 tbsp (45 mL) cornstarch 1/2 cup (125 mL or 1 stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut into chunks 1/2 cup (125 mL) Hazelnut Praliné 1/2 cup (125 mL or 1 stick) softened unsalted butter, cut into chunks 1/2 cup (125 mL) milk 1/2 cup (125 mL) water Pinch salt 1 tbsp (15 mL) sugar 1/2 cup (125 mL or 1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into chunks 1 cup (250 mL) all-purpose flour 4 large eggs 1 lightly beaten large egg yolk 2 tbsp (30 mL) coarsely chopped hazelnuts 1 To make Hazelnut Praliné, lightly grease a baking sheet with canola oil. Combine water and sugar in a medium saucepan. Set over medium heat and stir until mixture comes to a boil. Let cook, undisturbed, occasionally swirling pan to ensure even colour, for an addi- tional 6 to 7 minutes or until mixture is amber. Drizzle onto baking sheet. Cool completely, then break into small pieces (see TIP). 2 Combine nuts and caramel pieces in a food processor. Process on high speed, scraping down sides from time to time, until mixture is very finely ground and completely liquefied, about 10 minutes. Hazelnut Praliné may be made up to a week in advance and kept refrig- erated until ready to use. HAZELNUT PRALINÉ Canola oil for baking sheet

TIP If you’re really looking to impress, make a second batch of the caramel as indicated in the Hazelnut Praliné method and break into shards to decorate the top of your Paris-Brest.

3 For the Hazelnut Cream, combine milk and coffee in a medium pot over medium heat. Meanwhile, whisk together sugar, egg yolks and cornstarch in a medium bowl. Once milk is steaming, pour about one-third over yolk mix- ture, whisking to combine. Add remaining milk, whisking constantly. Return mixture to pot, set over medium heat again, and whisk constantly until very thick, smooth and glossy. 4 Remove from heat; whisk in chilled butter, 1 or 2 pieces at a time. Stir in 1/2 cup (125 mL) Hazelnut Praliné; scrape into a large mixing bowl. Cover surface with plastic wrap; let cool to lukewarm. 5 Using an electric mixer, beat softened butter into Hazelnut Cream, 1 piece at a time, until fully incorporated. Beat for 5 minutes longer, until cream is soft and fluffy. (Cream may be pre- pared ahead and kept covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days. Return to room temperature and beat for 2 minutes before proceeding.) 6 On the day you plan to serve the finished dessert, preheat oven to 375°F (191°C). 7 Combine milk, water, salt, sugar and butter in a medium pot over medium heat. Once mixture comes to a boil, add flour all at once and stir until mixture comes away from side of pot. Reduce heat to low and continue to cook for 3 minutes longer, stirring all the while. 8 Remove from heat and turn out into a large mixing bowl; let cool for 10 minutes. Add eggs, 1 at a time, stirring until fully incorporated before adding the next. Transfer mixture to a piping bag fitted with a 1/2-inch (1 cm) round or French pastry tip. Twist bag to enclose batter and let rest for 20 minutes. 9 Meanwhile, use an 8-inch (20 cm) cake pan to trace a circle onto a piece of parchment paper. Transfer, tracing-side down, onto a baking sheet. Pipe a single circle of batter over tracing; pipe a second circle of batter outside but touching the first. Pipe a third circle over the first 2 and into the seam where the 2 first circles meet. Brush pastry with egg yolk, sprinkle with hazelnuts and bake for 50 to 55 minutes or until golden, puffed and crisp. Allow to cool on a rack (pastry may be kept for 8 hours, uncovered, at room temperature). 10 Using a serrated knife, split pastry through the equator to form a top and bottom. Transfer Hazelnut Cream to a piping bag fitted with a 1/2-inch (1 cm) French pastry tip. Pipe 12 equally spaced rosettes on top; pipe remaining cream decoratively onto cut surface of bottom. Place top piece overtop and chill for 30 minutes before serving.

WHAT TO SERVE

Often overlooked during dessert, a mature bourbon’s rich palate and nuanced flavours of ha- zelnut, vanilla and caramel can work wonderfully

with cream- and nut-based treats. Woodford Reserve Double Oaked LCBO 410852, $70.00

FESTIVE TRIFLE CAKE I love a good trifle but can’t be bothered to store a trifle dish for 364 days of the year. Here’s my answer to this quandary: a trifle made in a cake instead of made of cake. The cake portion is a classic Victoria sponge, itself a type of pound cake. In other words, it’s but- tery in all the right ways. It and the delicious curd can be made a day ahead but should be assembled a few hours before you plan to serve the dessert. CAKE 1 3/4 cups (425 mL) all-purpose flour 1 tbsp (15 mL) baking powder Pinch salt 1 cup (250 mL or 2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened 1 cup (250 mL) sugar 4 eggs Zest of 1 orange 1/4 cup (60 mL) milk CRAN-POMEGRANATE CURD 1 cup (250 mL) fresh cranberries 1 cup (250 mL) pomegranate juice 1 cup (250 mL) sugar 6 tbsp (90 mL) butter, softened 3 eggs, plus 2 egg yolks 1/4 cup (60 mL) Grand Marnier, divided 1 1/2 cups (375 mL) whipping cream 1/2 cup (125 mL) icing sugar, sifted 1/4 cup (60 mL) pomegranate arils 1 Preheat oven to 350°F (177°C). 2 Butter and flour sides of an 8-inch (20 cm) round cake pan. Line bottom with parchment paper. 3 For the cake, in a small mixing bowl, com- bine flour, baking powder and salt. Set aside.

Serves 12

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HOLIDAY 2021 FOOD & DRINK