LCBO Food & Drink Holiday 2023

Riesling The only serious rival to Chardonnay as Number One white grape for the last 300 years, Riesling nonetheless carries a burden of misinformed distrust. People imagine it’s always sweet. What it is, in fact, is balanced. Even when the wine is made in a very dry style, the grape’s natural acidity needs a trace of sweetness to become mouth-wateringly delicious. Low in alcohol, famously food-friendly and capable of creating masterpieces at every level from bone-dry to icewine, it is also exceptionally sensitive to the conditions under which it is grown—expressing terroir in the clearest way while still maintaining its own unmistakable identity. Germany is its homeland, and it does superbly well in Alsace and Austria; on this side of the ocean, Niagara has been producing world-class examples for decades.

AN AFTER-DINNER DELIGHT Studert-Prüm Riesling Spätlese VINTAGES 114777, $28.95, Nov. 18 Mosel Riesling means lime and minerality—present in spades in this Spätlese (late harvest) version. The sweet richness is balanced by acidity, and the overall impression is one of ele gance. Only 8.5% alcohol by volume. HOW GOOD IS NIAGARA RIESLING? Thirty Bench Winemaker’s Blend Riesling VQA VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 24133, $22.95 Superlative—and a vibrant example of the complexity of floral, citrus, apple and min eral notes that a first-class winemaker (Emma Garner) can capture with fruit from mature vines on Niagara’s Benchland. Irresistible as an aperitif, it’s also wonderfully versatile at the dinner table. Willm Réserve Riesling VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 11452, $22.95 Bone-dry but smooth and weighty as satin, this floral Alsatian gem finds other choice suggestions on the palate—illusions of beeswax and petrol behind the apple and citrus. Tongue-tingling to the max! ALSATIAN STYLE: TO BE RELISHED!

Riesling’s Party‑Going Bubbly Kew Vineyards Organic Riesling Sparkling VQA LCBO 645309, $19.95

Sparkling traditional-method brut Riesling from a mature organic vineyard on Niagara’s Beamsville Bench shows a fine mousse, racy acidity and loads of clean, bright green apple, cider apple and candied lime nuances. Open at brunchtime.

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