LCBO Food & Drink Holiday 2023

Pinot Grigio Why has Pinot Grigio become so popular in the last couple of years? Its critics might argue that part of the appeal is its lack of personality—the wine’s low acidity, diffident aroma and relatively vague flavour can be inoffensive to the point of blandness. In Alsace, that low-key bouquet is seen as an asset when matching Pinot Gris with food, though prize examples have their own lovely apple, pear and smoky notes, as well as a luscious viscosity. Elsewhere, climate lends character. In Italy’s mountainous northeast, for example, the grapes benefit from cool summer nights, which make them ripen later, developing more obvious aromatics and holding onto their acidity a little longer than is possible in warmer sites. Here are three wines from different hemispheres that show what this grape can do when properly coaxed by the winemaker.

RELIABLE QUALITY AND CHARACTER Mezzacorona Pinot Grigio LCBO 302380, $16.45

From the deep Adige Valley in Italy’s Dolomite Mountains, this iconic Pinot Grigio ripens late, allowing more flavour to develop than in flatter, more southern sites. Think ripe green apples, honeysuckle and a hint of miner ality, all refreshed by a welcome touch of zesty acidity. A LUNCHTIME FAVOURITE Matua Pinot Grigio Marlborough LCBO 19255, $19.95 This floral, aromatic Pinot Grigio from New Zealand’s South Island charms with cooked pear and peach notes and the smooth, mouth-filling weight that is one of the variety’s trademarks. Try it with simple chicken or seafood dishes. RICH AND VOLUPTUOUS Angels Gate Pinot Gris VQA LCBO 331215, $15.95 A big wine with a nudge of acidity and generous pear, ripe red apple and white flower aromatics. The overall balance is impressive and helps this Ontario wine shine at the table with baked ham or roast chicken. Serve well chilled.

A Cocktail Before Dinner? The Tricicletta p. 247

Inspired by the Bicicletta (white wine, Campari and soda), the Tricicletta is a subtle, bittersweet aperitivo cocktail, welcome at any time of the year. Pinot Grigio lets the Aperol shine: chill them both before making.

FOOD & DRINK HOLIDAY 2023 141

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