LCBO Food and Drink Spring 2016

SPRING 2016

WELCOME TO digital

You’ll never have to miss another issue.

Welcome to Food & Drink ’s digital edition for Spring. Our stories for this season remind us that signs of spring come at different times in different parts of the world. We have an Irish menu for St. Patrick’s Day, a Greek twist for your Easter feast and, for when Spring has truly sprung in Canada, a delectable Spring Brunch. Enjoy the issue, share it with family and friends and let us know what you think: foodanddrink@lcbo.com.

SNEAK PEEK

Nothing says swing into spring like a sunny brunch. Come behind the scenes with us for “The Return of Brunch”.

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BLOODY SPICY.

Get a kick out of brunch with this Bloody Maria with Sriracha and Lime recipe. Just shake our all-natural PC ® Black Label Sriracha Cocktail Mixer with ice, tequila and lime for a spicy twist on a classic cocktail.

Bloody Maria with Sriracha and Lime

INGREDIENTS

PC ® Black Label Sriracha Bloody Mary Mix

1 cup (250 mL)

3 tbsp (45 mL)

good-quality tequila

2 tsp (10 mL)

fresh lime juice

1

mini cucumber spear (quartered lengthwise)

1

large sprig fresh coriander

1

lime wedge

2

small cooked shrimp (21-30 count), threaded onto small skewer

instructions

1. Fill cocktail shaker half full with ice. Add Bloody Mary mix, tequila and lime juice. Place lid on shaker and shake vigorously for 30 seconds. 2. Fill highball glass half full with ice. Strain cocktail shaker contents into glass. Garnish with cucumber spear, coriander, lime wedge and shrimp skewer.

Find all our recipes at pc.ca/blacklabel

All trademarks & logos are trademarks of Loblaws Inc. ©2016 Loblaws Inc. All rights reserved.

Superb quality. Distinctive character. Exceptional value. The finely crafted wines in our Essentials Collection make exploring the world of wine easy. View the entire collection of 130 proven favourites, handpicked by our experts. Always available. vintages.com/essentials.

Legendary Style

Benchmark NZ

Great with roast lamb TEDESCHI AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO Veneto, Italy 433417 750 mL $49.95 Full-bodied & Smooth Great with rare steak CASTELGIOCONDO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO Tuscany, Italy 650432 750 mL $49.95 Full-bodied & Firm Great with grilled chicken BONTERRA CHARDONNAY California, USA 342436 750 mL $19.95 Aromatic & Flavourful Great with steamed clams KIM CRAWFORD SAUVIGNON BLANC Marlborough, New Zealand 35386 750 mL $19.95 Aromatic & Flavourful

Top Quality

Pure Expression

Prices subject to change without notice. Available in Vintages locations at select LCBO stores.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

76

FEATURES

56 GREEK HOLIDAY 

By Christopher St. Onge Borrow from Greece’s famed flavour palate for a fresh new spin on your Easter dinner menu. By James Chatto & Lucy Waverman Whether you’re off to Ireland on a plane or in an armchair, these delicious dishes with matching drinks highlight the culinary rebirth in that fair land. With spring’s warmth and lengthening days on the horizon, hosting a brunch that’s bursting with flavour is the perfect way to celebrate. By Michelle P.E. Hunt & Laura Panter Five ingredients, each played up three different ways, make for inspired cocktails that hint at spring. ON THE COVER Stuffed Leek Parcels with Avgolemono

64 FROM THE EMERALD ISLE

70 THE RETURN OF BRUNCH  By Eric Vellend

76 MIXING IT UP 

Sauce, recipe on page 107. Photography by Rob Fiocca

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2016 5

TABLE OF CONTENTS

DRINK

SPIRITS GINS OF DISTINCTION  By Eric Vellend

41

Making gin cocktails can be tricky as each brand has its own distinctive flavour; hence these four mixed drinks, designed to bring out the best in four specific gins.

WINE PASSAGE TO SPRING  By James Chatto

89

Move over, big red winter wines; make room for a springy array of full-bodied whites, light reds and refreshing rosés.

IN EVERY ISSUE

EDITOR’S NOTES

8

83

A SPLASH OF MOSCATO A generous splash of sparkling Red Moscato adds an earthy sweetness to blueberry jelly. WHAT’S NEW A selection of products from around the world available at the LCBO and Vintages. MUST-HAVES Things we love for entertaining and around the house. TRENDSPOTTING What’s on our radar this issue? Tea, in all its varieties.

15

DEPARTMENTS

17

FOOD

22

SEASONAL TOPPING IT OFF  By Marilyn Bentz-Crowley Crisps, crumbles and cobblers go savoury, adding texture and flavour to warming weeknight supper recipes. FLAVOURS COCONUT CREATIONS  By Joanne Yolles To showcase the versatility of a much-loved ingredient, we present four fantastic desserts.

33

25

RECIPE INDEX

119

47

SOURCE RESOURCE

119

5 QUESTIONS WITH… Caesar Guinto, chef and co-owner of Creemore Kitchen in Creemore, Ont., serves good, simple food from local ingredients—with a nod to his Filipino roots.

120

TWISTS REDISCOVERING LIVER  By Amy Rosen

83

25

Liver prepared well delights aficionados and stands a good chance of converting haters; these recipes offer delectable proof.

BASICS KNOW YOUR NOODLES  By Jennifer MacKenzie

97

Faced with so many choices when buying pasta, we can all use this primer showcasing three varieties and which sauces suit them best.

6  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2016

EDITOR’S NOTES

Here’s hoping that by the time this issue arrives in LCBO stores, the first signs of spring will be sprout- ing here in Ontario. It’s time to shake o winter and open up our windows— and our palettes…    Set aside the deep, dark red wines of winter (for now) and let Food & Drink be your guide as you consider lighter reds, refreshing rosés and full-bodied whites in “Passage to Spring” on page 89. The unique fla- vour of gin makes an interesting study as we transition away from dark spir- its. In “Gins of Distinction” on page 41, Eric Vellend highlights four examples, each with its own distinct flavour pro- file, and creates a cocktail to highlight its attributes. Sticking with cocktails, we also asked the Martini Club to take five ingredients and develop three cocktails featuring that ingredient— each one hinting at spring. Check out “Mixing it Up” on page 76 to find a new favourite amongst the fifteen featured there.    On the food side, we’ve put a fresh spring spin on chicken livers and on cobblers, crisps and crumbles. In “Rediscovering Liver” on page 83, Amy Rosen presents three recipes that just might convert that protein’s harshest critics—think General Tso Chicken Livers. Then in “Topping it O ” on page 33, Marilyn Bentz-Crowley puts a savoury twist on dessert-style dishes, yielding warming suppers for cool evenings—Chicken Crisp with Grilled Cheese Croutons, anyone? “Know your

Noodles” on page 97 satisfies any carb cravings lingering from winter, and “Coconut Creations” on page 47 will surely delight a sweet tooth.    For all your seasonal entertain- ing needs, this issue has menus for St. Patrick’s Day and Easter cele- brations. James Chatto and Lucy Waverman team up for “From the Emerald Isle” on page 64, presenting delicious dishes inspired by Lucy’s re- cent travels and pairing them with Irish whiskies, beers and ciders. In “Greek Holiday” on page 56, Christopher St. Onge gives the Easter feast a Greek flavour twist with incredible results. Be prepared for rave reviews whether you are celebrating on March 27th or Greek Orthodox Easter on May 1st.    Starting with this issue, we have also tweaked our “Trendspotting” section to focus on just one trend for each season. With input from our expert contributors, we wanted to demonstrate how to bring a trend to life in your home—starting with tea, in all its many forms, on page 25. Be sure to let us know what you think! And finally, a reminder that each is- sue of Food & Drink is now available online, and as a digital download for iOS and Android devices, two weeks after it is released in stores. Visit foodanddrink.ca/fddigital for more information, and be sure to share with family and friends who may have missed this issue in stores, or who live outside the province.    Have a great spring!

PORTRAIT BY STACEY BRANDFORD

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING

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Publication Director & SVP .........Nancy Cardinal Sales, Marketing & Insights

VP Marketing ..................................Kerri Dawson Editor .................................................Jody Dunn Art Director .....................................Karen Lim Senior Editor ...................................James Chatto Food Editor .......................................Lucy Waverman Contributing Editors ....................Charlene Rooke, Kat Tancock Publication Coordinator ............Leslie Virdo Senior Designer .............................Cathy Cicchini Graphic Designer .........................Pat Turbach Production Manager ...................Mark Greene Production Coordinator .............Judy Haverkort Publication Assistant .................Piper MacFadyen Production Assistant ...................Everton Smith Food Stylists ....................................Eshun Mott, Christopher St. Onge Prop Stylists ....................................Catherine MacFadyen, Andrea McCrindle, Lara McGraw Contributors ...................................Julia Aitken, Marilyn Bentz-Crowley,

Cynthia David, Robert Hercz, Michelle P. E. Hunt, Anna Kohn, Signe Langford, Ann Lough, Jennifer MacKenzie, Brenda Morrison, Laura Panter, Amy Rosen, Christopher St. Onge, Eric Vellend, Joanne Yolles

COMING NEXT ISSUE LIGHT FANTASTIC! A feast for the summer solstice JUST ADD WINE Great wine cocktails with a twist ROLE REVERSAL Mother’s Day BBQ, Father’s Day brunch VERSATILITY LESSONS Five condiments each used five ways

Publisher ..........................................Wayne Leek

For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about LCBO products and policy please contact helloLCBO online at hellolcbo.com, or call toll-free 1•800•668•5226 or 416•365•5900. TTY Only: 416•864•6898 or 1•800•361•3291. For advertising in Food & Drink magazine, please contact Keystone Media, 416•224•1500 or e-mail foodanddrink@keystonemedia.ca. All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the LCBO’s advertising agreement. Food & Drink is published six times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Volume 23, Number 4. Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 percent post-consumer fibre. Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs.

Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Drink , 55 Lake Shore Boulevard East, Toronto, ON, M5E 1A4 ISSN 1195-5988

WATCH FOR THE EAR LY S UMME R I S S UE OF

AVA I LABLE MAY 4

Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all LCBO stores.

PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE. Cette publication est également disponible en français.

10  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2016

START WITH CRACKER BARREL • END WITH AMAZING

SHREDS Introducing

ONTARIO SUPERSTARS With spring on the horizon, set your palate to fresh and exciting flavours. From appetizers to the main event, our selection of Ontario VQAwines will always provide a perfect match.

PENINSULA RIDGE SHIRAZ VQA 70052 750 mL $14.95 MEDIUM BODIED & FRUITY D 10 g/L

SILVER BAY RIESLING GEWÜRZTRAMINER VQA 372771 750 mL $13.95 OFF DRY & FRUITY M 23 g/L

KITTLING RIDGE VIDAL ICEWINE VQA 563247 375 mL $39.95 LUSCIOUSLY SWEET S 217 g/L * A Vintages Essential

GYROS BURGERS WITH OVEN ROASTED LEMON POTATOES

Scan the code for this recipe or visit lcbo.recipes/6353

THE INDIVIDUAL CHEESE COURSE Scan the code for this recipe or visit lcbo.recipes/6354

Featured products available at select LCBO stores. Prices subject to change without notice. *VintagesEssentialsCollection isalwaysavailable atmanyLCBO locations.Visitvintages.com/essentials.

22964

* A Vintages Essential

B l o o m L i f e i n F u l l E x p e r i e n c e TM

The new BloomStruck hydrangea from Endless Summer. Why settle for a hydrangea that blooms once a season when you can have one that blooms all summer long, year after year?

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A SPLASH OF MOSCATO BY SIGNE LANGFORD  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

THE PROOF IS IN THE FLAVOUR WHEN YOU COOK WITH SPARKLING RED MOSCATO.

An absolutely delightful spring sipper, celebratory and off-dry, sparkling red Moscato is perfect on its own or paired with cheeses, cured meats, spicy cuisines and desserts. Fruity, fun and lower in alcohol than most other bubblies, it’s ideal for toasting a warm after­ noon. Moscato is an ancient grape—perhaps its most famous incarnation is Italy’s white Moscato d’Asti—but the casually elegant, ruby red blend from Australia used here is full of New World cheek!     A generous splash of Yellow Tail Red Moscato Bubbles ( LCBO 429951, $13.95) adds an earthy, almost musky sweetness to this decidedly decadent deep-purple-almost-black jam. Not cloyingly sweet, this all-grown-up preserve is sophisticated enough to garnish the finest artisanal cheese or charcuterie board. Or, for a delicious change of pace from cranberry jelly and applesauce, serve a dollop alongside roasted poultry or pork. Still, this beautiful spread is down-home enough to enjoy on your morning toast any day of the week. Bonus: our recipe only calls for 1 cup of bubbles, so even though Yellow Tail’s clever resealable cap technically allows you to save the rest of the bottle for later, we think making a batch of jam this tasty is a job worth celebrating. Don’t you?

BLUEBERRY & SPARKLING RED MOSCATO JELLY recipe on page 110

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2016 15

C h e s e c a k e DressedUp Easer got for

COCONUT JOY CHEESECAKE

What You Need

Make It

HEAT oven to 325°F. COMBINE cookie crumbs, 2 Tbsp. sugar and butter. Press onto bottom of 9-inch springform pan. BEAT cream cheese and remaining sugar in large bowl with mixer until blended. Add vanilla; mix well. Gradually beat in milk until blended. Add eggs, 1 at a time, mixing on low speed after each just until blended. Pour over crust. BAKE 55 min. to 1 hour or until centre is almost set. Run knife around rim of pan to loosen cake; cool before removing rim. Refrigerate cheesecake 4 hours. MICROWAVE semi-sweet chocolate and Cool Whip in microwaveable bowl on HIGH 1 min.; whisk until chocolate is completely melted and mixture is well blended. Pour over cheesecake; top with coconut and nuts.

25 chocolate wafer cookies, finely crushed (about 1-1/4 cups) 1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. sugar, divided 1/4 cup butter, melted 4 pkg. (250 g each) Philadelphia Brick Cream Cheese, softened 1 tsp. vanilla 1/2 cup coconut milk 4 eggs 2 oz. Baker’s Semi-Sweet Chocolate, broken into small pieces 1 cup Cool Whip Whipped Topping (do not thaw) 1/2 cup sweetened flaked coconut 1/4 cup sliced almonds, toasted

Tases LIKE

NOTHING ELSE

Get your oven mitts on more delicious recipes at PhillyCanada.com

WHAT’S NEW COPY BY JULIA AITKEN • PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

A WORLD OF NEW PRODUCTS AT THE LCBO AND VINTAGES.

PORTUGUESE MASTERPIECE

Porta 6 VR Lisboa LCBO 427377, $12.40

The eye-catching label is by Lisbon-based German artist Hauke Vagt, but it’s what’s inside the bottle that’s made this Portuguese blend—also from the Lisbon area— a huge success in Europe. A trio of native grapes—Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Castelão—create jammy fruit flavours and a touch of spice: a natural with juicy roast lamb.

RIPE AND READY

Muga Reserva VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 177345, $23.95

You’ll love the flavours and aromas of cherry, wood smoke, cedar and vanilla in this lovely, fruity Tem- pranillo-based blend (there’s Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano grapes, too). Aged for two years in oak, it’s in perfect shape to enjoy now—ideal timing for an Easter weekend feast of roast chicken or duck confit.

CLEARLY UNIqUE Bacardí Gran Reserva Maestro de Ron LCBO 437483, $29.95 For this special blend, Bacardí blends rums up to three years old then filters the spirit through coconut-shell charcoal. The result is a rum that’s crystal clear yet full of flavour. Look for blue cheese (really!), black pepper, spice and vanilla. Smooth enough to enjoy straight, it also adds class to any cocktail.

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING

WHAT ’ S NEW

Sauza Hornitos Plata LCBO 436279, $33.95 Give any celebration a Mexican twist with this new addition to the well-known Hornitos tequila lineup. Made from 100-percent agave, the spirit is light and clear with delicious floral and herbal notes. Ice it down and enjoy straight up, or use to fix a pitcher of spring- time Margaritas. SPRING FIESTA

NIAGARA HERITAGE

PondView Estate Winery Lot 74 Harmony Red VQA LCBO 336495, $14.95 The name harks back to the 12-acre property—Lot 74—that PondView’s founders, the Puglisi family, bought more than 40 years ago. This easy- drinking red is a blend of Niagara Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cab- ernet Sauvignon. The spicy, dark fruit aromas and earthy blackberry- chocolate flavours make it a must with roast chicken.

Dusty Boots Hard Root Beer LCBO 447904, 4 pk, $14.95 This is root beer all grown up, and it’s a hot new trend. Packed with the spice of the traditional beverage but not too sweet, it’s naturally flavoured and has no preservatives. Chill it right down and enjoy in frosty glasses after you’ve dusted off the patio furniture on the first warm day of spring. ROOT BEER RISING

18  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2016

Apple Cranberry Crisp | 11 g of fibre

Chicken Parmesan | 5 g of fibre

Good things come from

Ultimate Burger | 11 g of fibre

allbran.ca/recipes

/allbranca

WHAT ’ S NEW

MADE FOR EACH OTHER Small Gully The Formula Robert’s Shiraz VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 142935, $19.95 How’s this for a perfect spring pairing? Fire up the grill for the first barbecue of the season and team a rack of lamb with this powerhouse Shiraz from down under. Crafted from 40-year-old vines, the wine is rich and luscious with good balance, soft, persistent tannins and a great finish.

ART MEETS BEER Collective Arts Ransack The Universe IPA LCBO 450312, 473 mL, $2.95 Hamilton, Ont., brewery Collective Arts not only creates craft brews but pro- motes artists by featuring limited-edition works on each beer’s label. Ransack The Universe—named for a favourite Toronto vintage store—combines Australian and American hops to create an India Pale Ale withmango and citrus flavours, a light malt body and a crisp finish.

Farm To Table Cabernet Merlot LCBO 436964, $14.95 PERFECT WITH BEEF

Australian vineyard FowlesWine crafts wines to complement farm- raised meat, and elegant draw- ings on each bottle are a clue to the best match. So it’s no surprise that the label on this rich Cab’- Merlot blend sports a beef cow. Black fruit, mint and spicy oak make this wine the classic partner for juicy prime rib.

20  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2016

SENSITIVE TEETH? YOUR COLGATE REPAIR CREW IS HERE.

We’re not your ordinary sensitivity toothpaste. † We’re on the job, sealing exposed nerves and helping repair sensitive teeth. ††

#1 BRAND USED MOST BY DENTAL PROFESSIONALS.

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MUST -HAVES BY BRENDA MORRISON  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI PRACTICAL AND PRETTY, HOME AND KITCHEN WARES THAT EASE DAILY TASKS AND ADD FLAIR TO YOUR ENTERTAINING.

SHEAR NECESSITY Signs of a well-equipped kitchen are high-quality versions of classic everyday essentials, such as stainless-steel All-Clad Kitchen Shears ($80). Designed to last a lifetime with a micro- serrated upper blade for precision cutting everything from butcher’s twine or fresh herbs and flowers to snipping out a recipe, there’s also an integrated notch for cutting small poultry bones. Available at Golda’s Kitchen (Mississauga, 1•866•465•3299, goldaskitchen.com).

UNDER THE DOME Nurture your plant cut- tings and tender seedlings in glass-domed Sagaform Greenhouses ($49.95), resembling tiny egg cups. Choose from three pretty pastels (green not shown) to line your windowsill or set a lovely brunch-time table­ scape, adding one at each place setting. Available at Rolo (Toronto, 416•920•0100, rolostore.com).

TAKE A STAND Be prepared for spring showers and guests with wet umbrellas with the Umbra Hub Umbrella Stand ($60). Perfectly at home in small entryways and grand foyers, it’s designed to protect flooring from water damage while holding umbrellas upright, allowing them to dry as rainwater drips into the water-resistant base. Available online at umbra.com.

HIP SIPS Small-batch, cold-steeped Simple Syrups ($16/200-mL bottle) from Vancouver- based Cahoots will have your guests thinking you’ve become a professional mixologist! Each flavour— classic, lavender, lemon and hibiscus—includes an easy-to-make recipe for a sophisticated cocktail. Available at Le Tablier Blanc (Toronto, 647•883•6091, letablierblanc.com).

FRESH FIND Extend the life of fresh fruits and vegetables with OXO Good Grips GreenSaver Produce Keepers, available in three sizes ($19.99 to $29.99). Each con- tainer incorporates three unique features: an all-natural carbon filter to slow down spoilage, an elevated interior basket for proper airflow, and a vented lid to control humidity levels. For retailers: danescoinc.com.

GLASS MENAGERIE Colourful glass Birdy water carafes ($70 for large, $65 for small) are delightful for early birds and night owls alike. Use them to serve different fruit juices for Sunday brunch. Or set one filled with water on the bedside table in your guest room. Available at Bergo Designs (Toronto, 416•861•1821, bergo.ca).

MARKET READY If you’re taking a spring stroll, be sure to take along a Goods and Provisions Market Tote ($32). With a luxe vintage vibe, this oversized jute bag is a chic fashion accessory, yet sturdy enough to carry your groceries, wine, magazines and more. For retailers: 1•888•632•6422.

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2016 23

Please enjoy our wines responsibly.16ME0073

Meiomi Chardonnay is a limited release. Available starting April 30 th , while quantities last, in VINTA

TREND SPOTTING BY KAT TANCOCK  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR FROM THE WORLD OF FOOD AND DRINK.

Tea’s popularity has far eclipsed its medicinal origins in China some 3,000 years ago, when people first began to sip infusions of the leaves of the Camellia sinensis shrub. Nowadays, not only are tea shops proliferating, but tea is appearing as an ingredient, too: think the Earl Grey cookies at Toronto’s Roselle or matcha-mint risotto at Red House in Waterloo. Whether green, black, white or oolong, here are some ways to enjoy the world’s most popular drink.

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2016 25

TREND SPOTT ING

serving suggestions [ HOW TO ]

Here, she shares her favourite tea accessories to help you steep and serve the perfect cuppa, at home or on the go.

“I prefer loose-leaf teas,” says Eshun, who is fond of tins of Kusmi tea (kusmitea.com), “thanks to their beautiful packaging.” At home, she brews in a small Japanese cast-iron teapot with a loose-leaf strainer insert, kept extra-warm with the addition of a Dutch-style padded tea cozy. If she’s on her way out, she’ll place tea leaves inside an unbleached paper filter bag, and prepare her tea in a Klean Kanteen insulated bottle with splashproof lid (kleankanteen.com for stores). “It keeps tea hot for hours on the go,” she says.

Food stylist Eshun Mott is such a tea fiend she carries an emergency stash in her styling kit, ready to brew on location in whatever vessel is handy.

Cast Iron Teapot from Teavana, teavana.com

“Try a lot of teas and you will become an expert,” says Karen Hartwick of Stratford’s Tea Leaves Tea Tasting Bar , who ranks quality—in general—from tea bags, to better tea bags, to loose tea, then to better loose tea. Smell for freshness—green tea should have a green and grassy scent, for example—and taste for full-bodiness and intensity of flavour. Store in airtight, lightproof containers for up to a year. Here are some Canadian brands to try. The basics on buying tea, plus how to store it. SHOPPING TIPS

Sloane Fine Tea Merchants sloanetea.com Pick up these tea blends in stores across the province, or shop online by taste profile, type or collection.

Camellia Sinensis camellia-sinensis.com

Pluck Teas pluckteas.com

Tea Leaves stratfordtealeaves.com

Buy tea and accessories online, or travel to Quebec to linger in its tea houses or attend workshops and events.

Teas from this Toronto-based brand include Ontario-inspired blends like Muskoka Chai, with dried Muskoka cranberries.

Purchase loose-leaf tea or a monthly tea subscription on- line, or drop by this Stratford shop for tastings and classes.

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING

TREND SPOTT ING

AFTERNOON TEA IN ONTARIO [ WHERE TO FIND ]

Cold or hot, Indian chai tea brings depth of flavour to cocktails. Recipes on page 118. Chai Cocktails

Whether you’re celebrating a special occasion or simply in the mood to be spoiled, you can’t beat a fancy afternoon tea complete with a pretty tiered tray filled with scones, dainty savouries and bite-sized baked goods. Afternoon tea at Langdon Hall (shown at left) in Cambridge is a white- tablecloth affair, where the menu might in- clude heritage egg salad on a mini croissant or seasonal cheesecake and macarons.    Try to book a table by the fireplace at the trendy Lobby Lounge in Toronto’s Shangri-La Hotel , where you can choose from 68 teas to enjoy with your finger sandwiches, scones and pastries.    The highlight of afternoon tea at the Fairmont Château Laurier in Ottawa is the tea sommelier, who wheels around a wooden cart and helps guests select the blend that best suits their mood.    Touting its experience as Victorian ele­ gance reborn, the Prince of Wales Hotel in Niagara-on-the-Lake serves organic teas alongside scones, tea and pastries with opt­ ional cheese selection or sparkling wine.

WARM

Brandy, Cointreau and amaretto combine for a fruity flavour reminiscent of berries in the classic hot blueberry tea cocktail, here updated with fresh orange juice and chai tea in a BLUEBERRY MASALA CHAI .

COLD

Pleasingly bitter matcha lends its vivid colour to modern desserts. Make It With Matcha

“I like the earthiness and grassy notes it gives off,” says Red House sommelier Rebecca Pettigrew about matcha, the powdered green tea that hails from Japan. Traditionally whisked with hot water before drinking, it’s now frequently used as a fla- vouring, too, in everything from macarons to Kit-Kat bars. A little matcha goes a long way, so ease into flavour experiments, says Christinn Hua of Toronto’s Millie Creperie, whose offerings include matcha gelato, tarts and crepe cakes. To avoid lumps, she adds, sift well and ideally use a traditional bamboo whisk to incorporate into recipes such as these Matcha Mint Profiteroles, adapted by Jennifer MacKenzie from our archives.

For the more refreshing big- batch INDIAN ICED CHAI , sweetened, spice-infused milky tea is chilled in a pitcher over­ night then mixed with white rum and ice, and garnished with a cinnamon stick.

Matcha Mint Profiteroles recipe on page 118

28  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2016

LANGDON HALL IMAGE PROVIDED BY LANGDON HALL COUNTRY HOUSE HOTEL & SPA

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THE $17 SOLUTION

The resourceful buyers at Vintages remove the guesswork from your entertaining equation with two smooth reds whose provenance, quality and character make them superb values at this price. vintages.com/17

Featured products may not be available in all V intages locations. Visit vintages.com for availability and store locations. Prices subject to change.

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Full-bodied & Smooth 412320 (D) 750 mL 2 JUST $17

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FOOD  SEASONAL

TOPPING

BY MARILYN BENTZ-CROWLEY  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE IT OFF

For a delicious change, crisps, crumbles and cobblers go savoury, adding texture and flavour to warming weeknight supper recipes.

PIRI PIRI SHRIMP WITH COCONUT- CASHEW CRISP recipe on page 109

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2016 33

SEASONAL  TOPPING IT OFF

LAYERED SALMON CRUMBLE WITH GRUYÈRE POTATOES

5 Toss home fries with cheese and half of parsley. 6 Over top of salmon, arrange roasted pep- pers; top with spinach “pancake.” Sprinkle with green onions. Pour over cream mixture. Top with home fries and cheese. 7 Bake 25 to 30 minutes or until just set. If a browner top is desired, briefly broil. Garnish with remaining parsley. Serves 4 to 6

2 large sweet red peppers, roasted, peeled and seeded 2 green onions, thinly sliced 1 Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C). Arrange rack above oven centre. 2 Cut each fillet lengthwise into 5 pieces. But- ter, or coat with nonstick spray, a deep-dish 9-inch (23-cm) pie plate or equivalent gratin dish; sprinkle with panko. Arrange salmon, lay- ing on sides evenly over bottom. 3 Place spinach mixture on a round dinner plate; cover. Microwave for 1 minute on high or until wilted. Remove cover; flip like a pan- cake onto a double thickness of paper towel. Cover with more paper towels; press to remove moisture. 4 Lightly whisk creamwith eggs, salt, mustard, chili flakes and pepper.

A layer of flavourful baby greens adds kick to this dish, which is also particularly nice for brunch. 14 to 16 oz (425 to 500 g) skinless, boneless salmon fillets Butter or nonstick spray 2 tbsp (30 mL) panko or other dry bread crumbs 1 box (142 g) baby spinach mixed with other greens such as arugula, kale and chard ½ cup (125 mL) 18% cream 2 eggs ¾ tsp (4 mL) salt ½ tsp (2 mL) each of Dijon mustard and chili flakes ¼ tsp (1 mL) freshly ground black pepper ½ pkg (325 g) frozen home fries, about 2 cups (500 mL) 2 oz (60 g) Gruyère or Emmenthal cheese, coarsely grated, about 1¼ cups (310 mL) 2 tbsp (30 mL) finely chopped fresh parsley, divided

WHAT TO SERVE Louis Jadot Chardonnay Bourgogne VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 933077, $21.95 Winzer Krems Gruner Veltliner 13 LCBO 375022, $12.95

34  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2016

BOLD FULL-BODIED SMOOTH

FRESH CRISP SMOOTH

Now available at select LCBO stores.

Please Enjoy Responsibly.

SEASONAL  TOPPING IT OFF

1 Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). 2 Make 5 cheese sandwiches placing a dou- ble layer of cheese inside the 2 pieces of bread per sandwich. Lightly spread bread exteriors with butter; grill over medium-low heat un- til bread is barely golden and cheese is just sticking to bread. Cool and cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) dice; there should be 8 to 10 cups (2 to 2.5 L). 3 Pull apart chicken into bite-sized pieces. There should be about 4 cups (1 L); discard skin and bones. Reserve any juice for sauce. 4 Cut tips off of asparagus; reserve tips for garnish. Slice asparagus or green beans into 1-inch (2.5‑cm) pieces. Set aside. 5 Heat butter in a large saucepan over medi- um heat until bubbly. Add leeks and carrots; sauté 5 to 7 minutes or until leeks wilt. Stir in flour; cook 1 minute. Slowly stir in broth and any juices from chicken; add mushrooms. If using green beans, add now. 6 Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring frequently. Reduce heat, cover and simmer 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

7 Stir in lemon juice, thyme, salt and pep- per. Stir in asparagus (if using) and chicken. Spread hot filling in a 9-inch (23-cm) baking dish or similar-size gratin dish with a capacity of 7 to 8 cups (1.75 to 2 L). Evenly top with crou- tons, crust-sides down, and tuck in reserved asparagus tips. 8 Bake 20 to 25 minutes in oven centre or until filling is bubbling and top is crispy and golden. Serves 4 to 6 IF MAKING AHEAD: Prepare, but do not bake. Store croutons and filled dish separately in refrigerator for up to a day. Place foil over filling in dish; bake 30 minutes. Then remove foil, arrange croutons and continue baking for another 20 to 25 minutes.

This saucy crisp is deliciously warming. Buy a roasted chicken at the butcher’s or grocery store for use in this recipe. CROUTONS 8 to 10 slices mild provolone or havarti cheese 10 slices Italian bread, not a thick-sliced variety 3 to 4 tbsp (45 to 60 mL) soft butter FILLING 1 purchased roasted or barbecued chicken, about 900 g cooked weight 6 to 8 oz (175 to 250 g) thin fresh asparagus or green beans 2 tbsp (30 mL) butter 1 large leek, cleaned and sliced 3 fresh spring carrots, diced ¼ cup (60 mL) all-purpose flour 2¾ cups (675 mL) chicken broth 4 oz (125 g) cremini or white mushrooms, sliced (about 5 to 6 large) 1½ tsp (7 mL) lemon juice 1 to 2 tbsp (15 to 30 mL) finely chopped fresh thyme or torn basil ½ tsp (2 mL) salt ¼ tsp (1 mL) freshly ground black pepper

WHAT TO SERVE Peninsula Ridge Sauvignon Blanc VQA LCBO 53678, $14.95

Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Villages VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 365924, $17.95

CHICKEN CRISP WITH GRILLED CHEESE CROUTONS

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brewed in north america

Since 1995, our Belgian-style wheat ale has been crafted with Valencia orange peel and garnished with an orange slice to bring out the extraordinary citrus aroma and taste.

© 2005 MOLSON COORS CANADA, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. MUST BE LEGAL DRINKING AGE.

SEASONAL  TOPPING IT OFF

TINY TOMATO COBBLER WITH CHEESE & CHIVES

¼ tsp (1 mL) salt Pinch of freshly ground black pepper 3 tbsp (45 mL) butter, softened ⅓ cup (80 mL) grated cheddar cheese 2 tbsp (30 mL) snipped chives or finely sliced green onions 1 to 2 tbsp (15 to 30 mL) finely grated Parmesan or Asiago cheese. 1 Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C); place rack below oven centre. 2 Cut about half of tomatoes in half length- wise; leave smaller ones whole. 3 Sauté leeks and garlic in olive oil over me- dium heat for 5 minutes. Mix flour with salt, chili flakes and pepper; add to leeks. Cook 1 minute while stirring. 4 Add tomatoes, including any juice; stir rap- idly to mix well. Turn into an 8-inch (20-cm) square baking dish or similar-size gratin dish. 5 Soak oats with cream briefly in a mixing bowl. Combine flour, baking powder, salt and

The best supermarket tomatoes this time of year are the tiny ones that are bursting with flavour—and this delicious dish takes full ad- vantage. The rich topping is a cross between a biscuit and pastry and provides a good con- trast to the natural tanginess below. FILLING 6 cups (1.5 L) Roma grape, cherry, grape or other tiny tomatoes 1 large leek, cleaned and sliced or ½ sweet onion, sliced 2 large garlic cloves, minced 2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil 2 tbsp (30 mL) all-purpose flour ½ tsp (2 mL) salt ¼ tsp (1 mL) hot chili flakes Several grindings of black pepper TOPPING

pepper; using hands, work in butter. Mix in cheddar cheese and chives. 6 Stir flour mixture into soaked oats until all is wet. Drop by 6 small, slightly flattened spoonfuls over tomatoes; top with pinches of Parmesan. 7 Bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until topping is golden brown and tomatoes are bubbling. Serve hot, ladling juices as well as tomatoes and topping into each dish. Garnish with addi­ tional chives, including flowers if available. Makes 4 to 6 servings

WHAT TO SERVE Leonardo Chianti Fiasco LCBO 372391, $16.30 Inniskillin Cabernet Franc VQA LCBO 317016, $14.95

⅓ cup (80 mL) quick-cooking oats ½ cup (125 mL) 35% whipping cream ½ cup (125 mL) all-purpose flour 1 tsp (5 mL) baking powder

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DRINK SPIRITS

BY ERIC VELLEND • PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA Gins of Distinction

Every gin has a distinct personality, so we’ve played Cupid, matching four brands with four custom cocktails to highlight the spirits’ unique flavours.

Bee’s Knees recipe on page 112

LCBO 358556, $39.85

Dillon’s Unfiltered Gin 22

Made in Niagara using a grape-based spirit, this award-winning gin is vapour- infused with 22 botanicals. Citrusy, floral and delicate with juniper in the back- ground, it’s an unabashedly modern spirit that will appeal to tipplers who are turned off by the gruffness of London dry gin. Those flowery notes hit the mark in a Bee’s Knees cocktail, a prohibition- era sour that’s sweetened with honey instead of sugar. While this libation was probably created to mask the wretched- ness of illegal bathtub gin, made with Dillon’s 22 it is a pure delight to drink.

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING

SPIRITS GINS OF DISTINCTION

LCBO 374231, $34.95

Ungava Premium Gin This one-of-a-kind gin from Quebec is flavoured exclusively with wild botanicals harvested in the northern region of the province. These include wild rosehips, which give the spirit its distinctive yellow hue. It’s sweeter than most gins, which yields a silkier texture that lends itself well to an Old Fashioned treatment. In this Gin New Fashioned, the Ungava’s fruity and floral notes are amplified by Luxardo Maraschino cherry liqueur, while a few dashes of Peychaud’s Bitters give the cocktail structure and a delicate pink hue. It’s a stiff drink, but satiny smooth and a great way to savour an original gin.

Gin New Fashioned recipe on page 112

Cardinale recipe on page 112

LCBO 2691, $27.95

Tanqueray London Dry Gin Recognizable by its iconic green bottle, this spirit was first distilled by Charles Tanqueray in 1830 in London, England. It’s one of the great all-purpose gins, shining bright in everything from a Dry Martini to a Tom Collins. It starts off with a sharp hit of juniper, but it’s the whip of licorice that works so well with the bitter orange flavours of Campari in the Cardinale, a Negroni variation that swaps in dry vermouth for sweet. It’s silky, light on its feet and the perfect pre-dinner aperitivo .

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING

SPIRITS GINS OF DISTINCTION

LCBO 277044, $44.95

Plymouth Gin Produced at The Black Friars Distillery in Plymouth, England, since 1793, this beloved spirit—sometimes referred to as English gin—is made with only seven botanicals. It’s juniper forward with a resinous piney aroma that’s reminiscent of a Christmas tree. Its rosemary flavour is a knockout combined with nutty, briny fino sherry in the Tuxedo cocktail, a bone-dry Martini variation that was created at New York City’s legendary Waldorf Astoria bar in the late 19th-century. A dash of orange bitters wraps a bow around everything for a truly memorable drink.

Tuxedo recipe on page 112

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING

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FOOD  FLAVOURS Coconut CREATIONS FOUR FANTASTIC DESSERTS THAT SHOWCASE THE VERSATILITY OF A MUCH-LOVED INGREDIENT. BY JOANNE YOLLES  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE

recipe on page 112 Cream Puffs COCONUT

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2016 47

FLAVOURS  COCONUT CREATIONS

½ cup (125 mL) flaked or shredded coconut for garnish 1 Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). 2 Sift the flour, ⅔ cup (150 mL) sugar, the baking powder and salt into the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attach- ment and mix on low speed just to combine. 3 Place the coconut oil in a small saucepan and place over low heat just to liquefy. Com- bine the oil with the ¼ cup (60 mL) of luke- warm water. 4 Pour the coconut oil-water mixture, and the coconut milk, into the dry ingredients and mix on low speed to combine. Add the egg yolks, vanilla extract and orange rind; mix at low speed only until smooth, stopping once or twice to scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl. The mixture will be yellow and thick. Remove the bowl from the mixer and stir in the shredded coconut. 5 In another bowl, stir together the remain- ing ⅔ cup (150 mL) sugar and the cream of tartar. In a clean bowl, with the whisk attach- ment, whip the egg whites at high speed until frothy. With the mixer running, add the sugar and cream of tartar mixture in a slow stream and continue whipping to form soft peaks. 6 With a large rubber spatula, fold one‑quarter of the egg-white mixture into the yolk mixture, then fold in the remaining egg whites until

An airy chiffon cake with a hint of orange provides a perfect tea-time treat, or a light after-dinner dessert. Pair it with fresh tropi- cal fruit and cream—or not; this cake can certainly stand on its own. Coconut oil, and in particular “virgin” coconut oil, enhances the flavour, though you could substitute regu- lar vegetable oil. Coconut oil will be solid at room temperature, so melt it gently over low heat just before using. For the lightest texture, be sure to sift the flour before you measure it.

completely combined. The batter should be smooth with no streaks. Pour into a 10 x 4-inch (25 x 10-cm) ungreased chiffon cake pan. Bake until the top is golden brown and springs back when touched lightly, about 45 minutes. 7 Remove cake fromoven and turn pan upside down, allowing the cake to cool completely in the pan. To unmold, turn the pan upright. Run a thin knife around the edge of the pan, then use a skewer to loosen the cake from the centre tube. Turn the cake out onto a serving plate. 8 For the glaze, sift the icing sugar into a bowl. Add the orange juice and coconut milk and whisk to combine. Pour the glaze over the top of the cake and spread just to the edges. Top with flaked or shredded coconut. You can dust the sides of the cake with sifted icing sugar if you wish. The cake will keep for up to 2 days if wrapped well with plastic wrap, and stored at room temperature. Serves 12

CAKE 2 cups (500 mL) sifted cake flour 1⅓ cups (300 mL) sugar 2 tsp (10 mL) baking powder

¼ tsp (1 mL) kosher salt ¼ cup (60 mL) coconut oil ¼ cup (60 mL) lukewarm water ¼ cup (60 mL) coconut milk 6 eggs, separated ¼ tsp (1 mL) vanilla extract Finely grated rind of 1 medium orange ¾ cup (175 mL) finely shredded, sweetened coconut ¼ tsp (1 mL) cream of tartar GLAZE ¾ cup (175 mL) icing sugar 1 tbsp (15 mL) fresh orange juice 1 tbsp (15 mL) coconut milk

WHAT TO SERVE Grand Marnier LCBO 1784, $44.95 Cîroc Coconut LCBO 381228, $49.95

Chiffon Cake COCONUT

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FLAVOURS  COCONUT CREATIONS

Rice Pudding COCONUT

4 On the day of serving, beat the whip- ping cream to stiff peaks. Fold one-third of the cream into the rice pudding, then finish by folding in the remaining two-thirds of cream. Serve immediately, or refrigerate until serving. Serves 6 to 8

Strain the mixture, pressing on the solids, to extract as much milk as possible. Discard the coconut. Measure the milk—you should have 4 cups (1 L). If not, top up with additional plain milk, and return it to the saucepan. 2 Bring the coconut-infused milk to the boil. Add the rice and the vanilla and coconut ex- tracts. Reduce heat to a low simmer. Continue simmering, stirring occasionally until the rice is tender and the milk has a loose pudding-like consistency, about 45 to 50 minutes. 3 Transfer to a bowl and cool completely either in the fridge or by placing over another bowl filled with ice water. The pudding will stiffen upon chilling. This mixture can be made in ad- vance and refrigerated for up to 2 days.

The saying “less is more” couldn’t be more appropriate here. A homey rice pudding deli- cately flavoured with coconut is so simple, so creamy, so yummy. No embellishment re- quired. And yes, you only need ¼ cup (60 mL) of rice; but make it arborio for maximum effect. 4½ cups (1.125 mL) whole milk 2 cups (500 mL) sweetened, shredded coconut

¼ cup (60 mL) arborio rice ¼ tsp (1 mL) vanilla extract ⅛ tsp (0.5 mL) coconut extract ½ cup (125 mL) whipping cream

WHAT TO SERVE Monsoon Coconut Pineapple Wave LCBO 370718, 4 pk, $6.85 Girls’ Night Out Coconut Lime Calypso LCBO 411546, 1.5 L, $12.95

1 In a medium saucepan, bring the milk and coconut to a boil, stirring occasionally. Turn off the heat and allow the milk to steep for 1 hour.

50  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2016

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FLAVOURS  COCONUT CREATIONS

1 For the pastry, put the flour, sugar and salt in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Add the butter and mix on low speed until the flour has a corn- meal consistency. Lightly mix the cream and egg yolk together, then add to the flour mix- ture. Mix just until the dough is blended and comes together. Form the dough into a flat disc, wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 1 hour. 2 On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough to fit a 4 x 13-inch (10 x 33-cm) rectangular tart pan, with a removable bottom. For maxi- mum volume, try to build up the sides of the tart shell slightly above the edges of the pan. Prick the bottom of the pastry with a fork and place the tart shell in the freezer for 20 min- utes or until firm. 3 Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). 4 Line the whole interior of the pastry shell with foil and fill with baking beans or pie weights. Bake for 15 minutes or until the edges of the pastry are dry and set. Remove the beans and foil and continue baking an- other 15 to 20 minutes or just until the pastry is golden brown. Transfer to a wire rack and cool completely. 5 For the filling, put the butter in a small saucepan and place over medium heat. Con- tinue melting the butter until it turns a gold-

The obvious flavour combination of bananas and coconut comes together beautifully in this delicious tart. If you don’t go to the trouble of cracking and grating a fresh coconut, try us- ing fresh-frozen, grated coconut sold in Fili- pino food shops. Just thaw, rinse and squeeze dry before using. It will ensure a moist filling. And though you could use a round tart pan, a rectangular one makes a more unusual pre- sentation. Serve the tart with lightly sweet- ened whipped cream, or better yet, a good caramel gelato. PASTRY 1½ cups (375 mL) all-purpose flour ¼ cup (60 mL) sugar Pinch of salt ½ cup (125 mL) cold, unsalted butter, cut into ¼ inch (5 mm) cubes 2 tbsp (30 mL) whipping cream 1 egg, separated FILLING ½ cup (125 mL) unsalted butter 2 eggs ½ cup plus 2 tbsp (125 plus 30 mL) sugar 2 tbsp (30 mL) all-purpose flour 1 cup (250 mL) finely grated, unsweetened coconut (preferably fresh, or fresh that has been frozen and thawed) 2 small bananas Large coconut flakes and icing sugar for garnish

en brown colour and has a nutty aroma. (This will occur just after the foam subsides). Cool slightly. 6 In the bowl of a stand mixer, using the whisk attachment, beat the eggs and sugar until thick and light in colour. Add the warm butter to the egg and sugar mixture and whip until combined. Add the all-purpose flour and continue mixing until the batter is smooth. Add the coconut and mix just to combine. 7 Peel the bananas and cut into ¼-inch-thick (5-mm) slices. Place in a single layer in the bottom of the tart shell, filling in as many gaps as possible. Pour the filling over the ba- nanas and bake the tart until golden brown and slightly puffed, about ½ hour. 8 Cool on a wire rack. Garnish with coconut flakes and dust with icing sugar just before

serving. Serves 8

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Tart BANANA COCONUT

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