LCBO Food & Drink Spring 2017

WINE  ROSÉ OUTLOOK

WORDS AND PICTURES

Now start looking at labels. As a general rule, if the rosé’s grape variety and region are stated, it’s likely to be a more serious, com- plex wine. This is especially true of European producers and New World producers who follow Old World ways. Campo Viejo Rioja Tempranillo Rosé DOC ( LCBO 175620, $11.95) from Spain’s Rioja region is a case in point. It’s dry and sophisticated but decidedly robust, perfect for paella or shrimps off the grill. The wine has a vinous nose, smelling like wine rather than fruit salad, with red berry, redcurrant and water- melon notes that carry over into the flavour.    Another example of a very helpful label comes from New Zealand: Matua Pinot Noir Rosé ( LCBO 484618, $16.95) from Cen- tral Otago, the famous Pinot Noir area in the far south of the country. This is an exquisite pale rose pink colour and its char- acter is spelled out—“Elegant and dry.” It’s not crudely fruity but has the sort of crisp acidity you’d expect from a white wine rather than a red, with delicate flavours of strawberry and citrus.

HOWSWEET IT IS! So where do you begin in your quest for knowledge? Imagine you’re looking for a rosé that will work with, say, barbecued shrimp. The first thing to check is the sweetness code on the shelf tag. There are five designations— XD (extra dry) , D (dry) , M (medium) , MS (medium sweet) and S (sweet) . With a few crucial exceptions, I prefer dry wine with savoury food so I can restrict my search to XD and D. *

    White Zinfandels from California proudly declare their grape and birthplace but are sweet and decidedly uncomplicated wines.     On the other hand, the most serious French and Spanish rosés rarely mention the grapes involved, relying on customers to know what to expect from the regional appellations. Tavel and Lirac rosés from the southern Rhône are complex and powerful, as are most pink wines from Spain’s Rioja and Navarre regions. Rosé d’Anjou is usually sweet, rosés from Provence tend to be light and delicate. Modern rosés from the Languedoc come in any and all styles.

EXCEPTIONS THAT PROVE THE RULE

90  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2017