LCBO Food & Drink Spring 2017

WINE  ROSÉ OUTLOOK

Often, of course, the name is a give- away. Cotton Candy Rosé (LCBO 369652, $9.95) is made by Diamond Estates in Niagara and has a label that looks like an invitation to a child’s birthday party. There’s no mention of the grape varieties used but the description of the taste is spot on— “subtly sweet with hints of candied red cherries and sugar plums.” A wel- come acidity adds a tangy balance to the sweetness, making this a juicy, easygoing aperitif wine that would go down well on a warm evening.    However, there’s no rule prevent- ing serious wine from having a whim- sical label. Radio Boka Rosé (LCBO 480467, $10.95) has a most unconven- tional name, a cartoon of an old radio spewing gossipy words on the back label but otherwise minimal informa- tion. And yet the wine is unexpectedly sophisticated, a dry, well-balanced blend of Tempranillo and Bobal from Spain’s La Mancha region. The body is light and elegant and the prevail- ing impression is one of strawberries with hints of raspberry and lavender. Pull it out with some prosciutto and salad at lunchtime.    Sibling Rivalry Pink VQA (LCBO 171033, $13.95) is made by Henry of Pelham in Niagara and also has lots of fun on the label, showing a cartoon of the three Speck brothers who own the winery, along with three hands playing rock, paper, scissors—the way decisions were made in the winery’s early days, or so the joke goes. It’s lighthearted, but the wine is a pretty intense, flavourful blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Gamay in an off-dry style that works well with a whole range of foods from barbe- cued meat and fish to pizza. what else can THE LABEL TELL US? *

PINK BUBBLY IS FOR DINNERTIME AS WELL AS FOR FUN

Yes indeed. Every year, it seems, the number of sparkling rosés grows—and the quality rises, too. In imitation of pink Champagne, we see pink cava from Spain, pink Prosecco from Italy, pink crémants from a number of French wine regions, and all sorts of blushing bubblies from the New World. Often they’re made with Pinot Noir—again, like Champagne—and where their white equivalents might offer citrus or apple or peachy aromatics, dry sparkling rosés carry a suggestion of red berry fruit. Certainly they are great aperitifs and party wines, but they are remarkably versatile at the table, great with sushi and cooked salmon dishes, ham and chicken, shellfish and seafood and all sorts of vegetarian meals.     Ontario is one of the great up-and-coming regions for sparkling wine, and part of that reputation is due to Henry of Pelham’s Cuvée Catharine Brut Rosé VQA ( LCBO 217505, $29.95). The rosé version contains a bigger ratio of Pinot Noir over Chardonnay than the white Brut and offers delicious hints of raspberry. Try it with a salad of spring vegetables topped with some crumbly goat cheese.     Cono Sur Sparkling Rosé ( LCBO 365205, $13.95) is pure Pinot Noir from Chile’s cool southern Bio-Bio valley. Minimal skin contact leaves a delicately pale salmon pink hue, but the juice has its own subtle tangerine and red berry flavours backed up by the yeasty brioche notes that come from the winemaking process. I drank it with roast pork and apple sauce and thoroughly enjoyed the match.     But you don’t have to be dry and grown-up to be welcome at dinnertime. Jacob’s Creek Moscato Rosé Sparkling ( LCBO 445825, $14.00) is the giggly guest at the gathering, sweet, frothy and full of the fragrant taste of Muscat grapes. Save this one for dessert with strawberry shortcake and whipped cream.

92  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2017