LCBO Food & Drink Spring 2018

SPRING 2018

IF YOU DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONALITY AS ‘MEDIUM RARE’ You’re a Beef Lover. I Y D I P I ‘ I R ’ You’re a Be f Lover.

Love Beef. Learn Beef. GET RECIPES, CUTS, COOKINGTIPS ANDVIDEOS Love Be f. Learn Be f. GET RECIPES, CUTS, CO KINGTIPS ANDVIDEOS

Download The Roundup ™ Download The R

Available in English, French and Spanish Available in English, French and Spanish

SCAN FOR M RE INFO

SCAN FOR MORE INFO

BALAYEZ POUR PLUS D'INFOS

BALAYEZ POUR PLUS D'INFOS

CanadaBeef.ca/theroundup Can d Beef.ca/theroundup

ESCANE R P A OBTENER MÁS INFORMACIÓN

ESCANEAR PARA OBTENER MÁS INFORMACIÓN

ONTARIO SUPERSTARS Spring sunshine calls for easy entertaining and delicious Ontario VQA wines. Choose from our curated selection of local wines and recipes, and say hello to spring.

OPEN CAB2 MERLOT VQA 134957 750 mL $12.95 MEDIUM BODIED & FRUITY XD 6 g/L

STREWN CHARDONNAY BARREL AGED VQA 522730 750 mL $14.95 FULL BODIED & RICH XD 3 g/L

CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES VIDAL ICEWINE VQA 565861 200 mL $26.95 LUSCIOUSLY SWEET S 247 g/L A Vintages Essential*

PROUDLY CANADIAN

GRILLED LAMB CHOPS WITH CHAMBORD GLAZE Scan the code for this recipe or visit lcbo.recipes/8353

INDIVIDUAL BRIE AND FIG STRUDELS Scan the code for this recipe or visit lcbo.recipes/8354

Featured products available at select LCBO stores. Prices subject to change without notice. *VintagesEssentialsCollection isalways availableatmanyLCBO locations.Visit vintages.com/essentials .

28027

THIS ONE IS ON US

FOLDA LE WATER OTTLE AVAILA LE WITH PURCHASE OF 6 PACK OF HEINEKE OTTLES.

Must be legal drinking age. For a limited time. While supplies last.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

FEATURES

66 MODERN CLASSICS By Signe Langford

54 ON THE LIGHT SIDE By Christopher St. Onge

Fresh flavour twists invigorate traditional cocktails and wake up your taste buds to spring.

A menu for entertaining that combines good-for-you ingredients and delectable fresh tastes.

60 DYNAMIC DUOS

ON THE COVER Quinoa-Crusted Pork Cutlets with Peas & Mint, recipe on page 74. Photography by Rob Fiocca

By Eric Vellend, Crystal & Tara Luxmore Satisfy your urge for that inimitable duo—burgers and beers—with our seasonally inspired recipes and matching brews.

54

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2018 5

TABLE OF CONTENTS

DEPARTMENTS FOOD

SEASONAL SAVOURING MAPLE By Amy Rosen

27

We all love maple desserts—but let’s not forget the flavour, depth and nuance that this syrup brings to savoury dishes as well. FLAVOURS SWEET ON MOCHA By Joanne Yolles The devastatingly delicious combo of coffee and chocolate makes for crowning-glory desserts at Easter dinner or any other special occasion.

27

DRINK

45

SPIRITS TASTING THE IRISH By James Chatto

35

Our expert panel points you in the right direction this St. Patrick’s Day for ideal Irish whiskies to have on hand.

QUICK & EASY CUTTING IT THIN By Monda Rosenberg

73

WINE EARTH-FRIENDLY WINERIES By James Chatto

79

Catch on to the joys of thin cuts of meat, especially on weekdays—they offer a fast and easy way to whip up delicious dinners.

In honour of Earth Day, we celebrate environmentally forward wineries in Ontario and around the world, cheering on the clever initiatives of these leaders in the field.

IN EVERY ISSUE

EDITOR’S NOTES

9

A SPLASH OF WINE Fruity white wine echoes the sweet and tames the heat in a Moroccan-inspired carrot dish that’s perfect for spring. WHAT’S NEW A selection of products from around the world available at the LCBO and Vintages. MUST-HAVES Things we love for entertaining and around the house. TRENDSPOTTING From savoury muffins to turmeric lattes, the most important meal of the day is having its moment.

11

45

13

18

21

RECIPE INDEX

103

KITCHEN ESSENTIALS Scrambled Eggs: Expand your skills or learn something new through cooking methods, information, recipes and tips.

104

6  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2018

Come see the original GPS. The new 2018 Subaru Outback has what you need to get where you’re going. With Symmetrical Full-Time All-Wheel Drive, car-like handling, loads of cargo space, and the ground clearance of an SUV, you could say the sky’s the limit. SubaruDarkSky.ca

Vehicle shown solely for purposes of illustration, and may not be equipped exactly as shown. Navigation system is only available on select trim levels. See Subaru.ca for more details.

VP Marketing ..................................Kerri Dawson Editor .................................................Jody Dunn Art Directors ...................................Karen Lim, Cathy Cicchini

Senior Editor ...................................James Chatto Food Editor .......................................Lucy Waverman

Contributing Editors ....................Charlene Rooke, Kat Tancock Publication Coordinators ..........Margot Blais, Leslie Virdo Graphic Designers .........................Wincy Law, Dominique Patafio, Pat Turbach

Production Manager ...................Mark Greene Production Coordinator .............Judy Haverkort Publication Assistant .................Piper MacFadyen Production Assistant ...................Everton Smith

Food Stylists ....................................Christopher St. Onge, Joanne Tsakos Prop Stylists ....................................Catherine MacFadyen, Andrea McCrindle, Lara McGraw, Shelly Shnier Contributors ...................................Julia Aitken, Anna Kohn, Signe Langford,

COMING NEXT ISSUE TOAST WITH THE MOST Variations on the crostini SAVOURY COCKTAILS Super summer sippers

Crystal Luxmore, Tara Luxmore, Brenda Morrison, Amy Rosen, Monda Rosenberg, Christopher St. Onge, Eric Vellend, Joanne Yolles

Publisher ..........................................Wayne Leek

For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about LCBO products and policy please contact helloLCBO online at hellolcbo.com, or call toll-free 1•800•668•5226 or 416•365•5900. TTY Only: 416•864•6898 or 1•800•361•3291. For advertising in Food & Drink magazine, please contact Keystone Media, 416•224•1500 or e-mail foodanddrink@keystonemedia.ca. All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the LCBO’s advertising agreement. Food & Drink is published six times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Volume 25, Number 4. Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 percent post-consumer fibre. Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs.

GIRLS’ NIGHT OUT A perfect get-together menu TEQUILAS TO TREASURE Mexico’s spirited best

Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Drink , 55 Lake Shore Boulevard East, Toronto, ON, M5E 1A4 ISSN 1195-5988

WATCH FOR THE EAR LY S UMME R I S S UE OF

AVA I LABLE MAY 2

Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all LCBO stores.

PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE. Cette publication est également disponible en français.

8  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2018

EDITOR’S NOTES

After a truly Canadian winter we are ready to embrace the new season with all of our senses— and when it comes to taste, we’ve got you covered!    From a lightened-up menu for entertaining that stars healthful ingre- dients (page 54) to flavourful, sea- sonal twists on some classic cocktails (page 66), your taste buds will surely recognize that spring has sprung. And as the last bit of snow melts o the BBQ we know you’re itching to start grilling. In Dynamic Duos on page 60 Eric Vellend has created five unique burgers that are ideal for the season while Crystal and Tara Luxmore sug- gest some fine Ontario brews that are their perfect match.    Spring brings its own roster of celebrations. First up is St. Patrick’s Day on March 17th. Irish whiskey has been experiencing a renaissance as of late so we gathered an expert panel to taste and see what the fuss is all about. Find their thoughts and recommendations for raising a toast on page 35. Easter is April 1st and, starting on page 45, we’ve got a few delicious ideas for dessert, all featur- ing the irresistible flavour of mocha. Or if you’re in charge of sides this year, consider wowing the crowd with

a carrot dish enhanced with North African seasonings and a splash of wine (page 11). Earth Day arrives April 22nd so what better time to explore the environmentally forward wineries whose products are on o er at the LCBO? You’ll find their wines and clever initiatives on page 79.    Perhaps no other ingredient says spring like maple syrup. A star in des- serts to be sure, its rich flavour adds depth and nuance to savoury dishes too, like the ones starting on page 27. If you do the grocery shopping in your family, you’ve likely noticed the increase in thin cuts available in the meat aisle. They’re a great solution for quick and easy weeknight dinners, but recipe developer Monda Rosenberg has given them a flavour boost that makes them worthy of spring dinner parties too (page 73).    And finally, before you dive into spring, did you know that Food & Drink contributes to the LCBO’s social media channels? Be sure to check out the o cial LCBO Facebook page and on Instagram @LCBO for informa- tion on release dates, sneak peeks of what we’re working on and timely solutions to your entertaining needs between issues.    Enjoy the season!

PORTRAIT BY JAMES TSE

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING

A SPLASH OF WINE BY JULIA AITKEN  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

THE PROOF IS IN THE FLAVOUR WHEN YOU COOK WITH WHITE WINE.

CUMIN- ROASTED CARROTS WITH WHITE WINE GLAZE recipe on page 88

It’s easy to overlook the humble carrot. Like the ubiquitous onion, the root is a workhorse vegetable, doing its duty all winter long in hearty soups and stews and—carrot cake aside—rarely taking up room in the spotlight.     Spring seems a good time to finally let the carrot step to centre stage. Slim roots in orange, purple and white, their tops intact, are concentrated little packages of carrot flavour. Snappy and sweet, they require few other ingredients to bring out their best. And, while we may consider carrots a northern vegetable, they’re as much a staple in Moroccan cuisine, where they add their colour and crunch to many dishes, teaming happily with pungent spices like cumin.     In our spring side dish, we roast carrots with the North African signature seasonings of cumin, honey and a smidgen of chili, plus a wine—Open Riesling-Gewürztraminer VQA ( LCBO 134965, $12.95)—that echoes the sweetness and tames the heat. With notes of honey, tropical fruit and peach tempered by a backbone of citrus acidity, Open’s fragrant Niagara blend matches the carrots perfectly and also goes beautifully with other North African classics—think tajine and couscous—as well as Indian and Thai fare.

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2018 11

Make it a Saturday – or Sunday – to savour and bring home your favourite Starbucks ® coffee from the grocery store. Explore special offers, recipes and more at myStarbucksWeekend.com . © 2018 Starbucks Corporation. All rights reserved.

WHAT’S NEW BY JULIA AITKEN  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

A WORLD OF NEW PRODUCTS AT THE LCBO AND VINTAGES.

FRESH FOR SPRING While the wine inside the bottle remains as fine as ever, this popular Vintages Essentials offering has been given a makeover with a brand-new label. A steal at the price, the creamy-textured Chardonnay exhibits white peach, citrus and floral notes that go beautifully with a spring lunch of Niçoise salad or poached salmon in Dijon sauce. J. Lohr Riverstone Chardonnay VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 258699, $19.95

PRETTY AS A PICTURE Lily Sparkling Rosé VQA LCBO 536565, $16.95

Here’s a versatile wine for spring weddings, spring birthdays, spring anythings... With its gor- geous label, this Niagara sparkler has fast become an LCBO cus- tomer favourite. Fresh and fruity, with lively bubbles and notes of apple, citrus and peach, it’s the go-to bubbly for a toast but also teams well with smoked salmon, shellfish and charcuterie.

CALIFORNIA TREASURE Three Thieves Cabernet Sauvignon  LCBO 541961, $15.95 The “thieves” in question—Charles Bieler, Joel Gott and Roger Scommegna—are California winemakers who continue to push boundaries by making fine wines affordable. And here they’ve bagged a beauty. Bright ruby red with aromas of fresh cherry and toasty vanilla followed by rich cherry and berry flavours, this wine is ideal with grilled steak.

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2018 13

WHAT ’ S NEW

BERRY, BERRY GOOD Baileys Strawberries & Cream LCBO 551598, $30.95 If you like strawberries and cream, you’ll love this twist on classic Baileys Irish Cream. Infused with the flavour of juicy, ripe strawberries, this limited-edition Baileys— available while supplies last—is ready to enjoy straight up, over ice or in your favourite cocktails. Or craft a grown-up sundae by drizzling it over scoops of strawberry and vanilla ice cream.

MUST-HAVE TUSCAN Castelli del Grevepesa Clemente VII Settimo Rosso VINTAGES 547273, $22.95 Don’t miss out on this Super-Tuscan. As PremiumWine of the Month in the April 14 Vintages Release Catalogue, it will be in high demand. Rich with dark fruit and mint aromas and fruity, peppery flavours, it’s a perfect pour now with roast prime rib, or you could cellar it for up to three years.

CRAFT CERVEZA Ace Hill Light  LCBO 568469, 473 mL, $2.95

Mexican-style lagers are the hot new trend in beer. Made with flaked corn as well as hops, for a light body and smooth texture, this typical brew from Toronto craft brewer Ace Hill has subtle hints of New World hops and a faintly bittersweet flavour. A natural with Mexican food, it’s great with Thai and Indian fare as well.

14  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2018

Bloomerang® Lilac: FRAGRANT, COMPACT SIZE, BLOOMS IN SPRING AND MIDSUMMER THROUGH FALL

Before they reach your garden, our owering shrubs undergo years of trials and testing for fragrance, color, quantity of blooms, foliage, and ability to thrive with ease. Only a few prove they’re worthy of the #1 plant brand.

provenwinners-shrubs.com

WHAT ’ S NEW

AFFORDABLE CLASSIC

Melini Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG LCBO 487819, $18.95

To snag a top-notch Chianti Classico Riserva for under $20 is rare indeed, and this well-priced find won’t disappoint. The elegant wine is intense and aromatic with notes of raspberry, violet, spice and toasted almonds, and a long, jammy finish. Decant then pour alongside duck confit or strong cheese, grilled T-bones or pork ribs.

VODKA ITALIA VOGA Vodka LCBO 545285, $39.95 Already renowned for fine wines in uber-chic bottles, VOGA Italia now sets its sights on vodka. VOGA’s new 100-percent Italian vodka— available lateMarch/early April—is crafted from fine Italian wheat and spring water from the Alps, then filtered through Nebbiolo grape must. The vodka is silky smooth and the gem-encrusted bottle, with integral pourer, stylish to a fault.

NEW CANADIAN TRADITION Mott’s Clamato Pickled Bean Caesar LCBO 491324, 458 mL, $2.95 The country’s top bartenders love gussying up cocktails, and have long known that a pickled green bean makes a cool garnish for Canada’s unique tipple. So, get ready to welcome a newmember to the Mott’s ready-to-drink Caesar line! With a bold and tangy taste, this convenient pour-and-serve Caesar is sure to become a classic.

16  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2018

Zucchini, Pine Nut, and Boursin ® Garlic & Fine Herbs Canapés

Ingredients

1/2 zucchini, grated 6 slices of Swedish crispbread 1 Boursin ® Garlic & Fine Herbs cheese

4 tsp. pine nuts, toasted and coarsely chopped

Preparation

Place grated zucchini in a clean cloth and squeeze to drain excess water. Spread the Boursin ® Garlic & Fine Herbs on the crispbread.

Add grated zucchini and sprinkle with pine nuts. Enjoy!

T a s t i e r !

Fresh herbs NOW WITH

*

G A R L I C & F I N E H E R B S

An i rres i st ible taste of f reshness

inspiration.boursin.ca

*Fresh frozen parsley

MUST HAVES BY BRENDA MORRISON • PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

FRESH FINDS THAT HELP SHAKE OFF THE LAST TRACES OF WINTER AND BRIGHTEN UP YOUR KITCHEN AND ENTERTAINING.

ECO CHIC Lunches and leftovers have never looked so good! Sweet Green Studios Handmade Reusable Beeswax Food Wraps (from $8 each) not only o er a practical way to reduce waste, but are pretty too. Assorted prints and sizes are available at sweetgreenstudios.com.

NOTEWORTHY We love this alternative to dusty blackboard chalk. Hanging Note Rolls ($60, 22 inches wide, brass clips included) are ideal for busy families to write messages, reminders and add to grocery lists. For special occasions, post a welcome greeting or have guests sign as a unique keepsake. Also available in 11- and 35-inch widths. For retailers contact Design Home (800•663•9950 x225). Additional paper rolls sold separately.

THE LATEST SCOOP Wondering what to serve for dessert? Introduce guests to Belly Artisan Ice Cream’s limited- edition all-natural spring flavours (500 mL, from $7.99)—Pimm’s Cup sorbet, Carrot Cake ice cream and Rhubarb Ginger sorbet. For retailers, visit bellyicecreamcompany.ca or stop by the Muskoka factory (705•571•5258) on your way to open up the cottage. R

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING

LET THEM EAT CAKE! Party of five? With handy Cake Dividing Markers (set of 4, $18), you can easily cut equal-sized slices for everyone. Gently press the marker into the cake to imprint cut lines in the icing. Then slice and serve. No more bickering over the biggest piece. Available at Yonge Street Winery (Aurora, 905•841•5552, yongestreetwinery.com).

VINTAGE VIBE Pair dish duty and works of art with a Cavallini & Co. Tea Towel ($17.98). Each one is adorned with a themed selection of vintage images of everyday ephemera, such as flowers, fruit and succulents. Packaged in a matching cloth pouch, they also make lovely gifts. Available at TOWN (Toronto, 647•748•8696, townthestore.com).

EGG -CEPTIONAL FIND For anyone who hates the job of peeling the shell o hard-boiled eggs, The Negg ($19.95) is a marvel. After shaking the egg inside the container with a small amount of water, the egg literally slides right out of the shell! Available at Bradshaws & Kitchen Detail (Stratford, 844•271•6281, bradshawscanada.com).

MESHING AROUND Brighten your day running errands with these reus- able cotton Mesh Shopping Bags ($10 each). They’re lightweight and washable yet sturdy enough for treks from the grocery store or Farmer’s Market. Choose from 11 colours, available at Pot & Pantry (Ottawa, 613•565•1212, potandpantry.ca).

© 2018 The Caldrea Company. All Rights Reserved.

HARDWORKING HOMEKEEPING

AROMATHERAPEUTIC HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS Creating clean and happy homes since 2001. Tough on dirt and grime. Gentle on your home.

LEMON VERBENA

to invigorate

and stimulate

is an herb with a

VERBENA LEMON

light, WONDERFULLY

the mind. How

refreshing citrus scent. It is said

nice of an herb

to PICK YOU UP.

DISH SOAP CUTS GREASE BIODEGRADABLE HINT HOUSEHOLD Before washing your dishes, scrape off food. Rinse greasy pots and pans in tapwater. Clean all glassware, and special pieces first, saving pots and pans for last. Stacks of dirty dishes are unsightly and quickly become smelly – ick! – so washup rightaway.

Learn more at MRSMEYERS.CA

TREND SPOTTING BY ERIC VELLEND  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY DARREN KEMPER

WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR FROM THE WORLD OF FOOD AND DRINK.

From savoury muffins to turmeric lattes, we’ve got the latest and greatest on the most important meal of the day. Mellow Yellow

The most buzz-worthy hot beverage is ironically caffeine-free. The turmeric or “golden milk” latte is a riff on an Indian cold remedy called haldi doohd, and its bright yellow hue has made it an Instagram sensation. Western versions usually star non-dairy milks, creating a vegan- friendly drink. At Nutbar (nutbar.co) in Toronto, homemade nut milk (a blend of cashew, almond and coconut) is spiced with turmeric, black pepper and cinnamon, and sweetened with raw honey. Ottawa’s Raw Pulp and Grind (rawpulpandgrind.com) offers the option of coco- nut or almond “mylk” with cold-pressed turmeric and ginger juices. Whether you’re lactose intolerant or need a caffeine break, this soothing beverage makes a great start to your day.

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2018 21

TREND SPOTT ING

TEA FROM COFFEE Before coffee finds its way into your cup, it starts off as a pair of beans inside a red, cherry-like fruit. In the past the outer skins of this fruit were usually discarded, but following a Yemenite tradition they are now being dried and steeped in hot water to make cascara tea . Tasting of rose hips, red

MERMAID TOAST

currants and raisins, it does have a little buzz—roughly one quarter the ca eine of an equivalent volume of brewed coffee. Many premium roasters in Canada carry cascara including 49th Parallel (49thco ee.com), Phil & Sebastian (philsebastian.com), and Pilot Co ee Roasters (pilotco eeroasters.com).

BANANA TOAST

SWEET POTATO TOAST

pizza for breakfast

While few people crave pepperoni pizza for breakfast, manakish (a.k.a. manakeesh) is a Middle Eastern flatbread typically eaten in the early part of the day. Especially popular in Lebanon and Syria, it’s traditionally topped with a paste of olive oil and za’atar, a spice blend made from sumac, dried herbs and sesame seeds. Other versions have plain cheese or minced lamb. You can find manakish at many Middle Eastern bakeries, or try it at home using our Manakish with Cheese and Za’atar , recipe on page 93.

Look out avocado, here are the contenders for the next trendy toast. AVOCADO TOAST the next ➤ Created by food stylist Adeline Waugh, mermaid toast is made by swirling natural colouring agents such as beet juice and blueberry powder into cream cheese. It is genuinely too pretty to eat. ➤ The beloved banana seems most likely to steal avocado’s crown as it’s already a breakfast staple and delicious with nut butters, chocolate spreads, jams and honey. ➤ A gluten-free option, thin slices of cooked sweet potato are reheated in a toaster then topped with everything from scrambled eggs to black beans, and, yes, avocado.

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING

TREND SPOTT ING

bowled OVER

From syrup-drenched waffles to cupcakes dis- guised as muffins, some breakfast foods feel like an excuse to eat dessert. Not anymore. Diners are embracing savoury pan- cakes from around the world including Japanese okonomyaki and Venezu- elan cachapas . Oatmeal has also gone savoury with toppings such as eggs, mushrooms and greens. Even the muffin is curbing its sweet tooth by dropping the sugar and adopting biscuit-like flavour profiles. Get in on the trend and bake off a batch of our Savoury Muffins with Ham, Asparagus and Gruyère (recipe page 94) for your next brunch. FUN SAVOURY

Peer into the modern breakfast bowl and you’ll find a lot more than just cereal and oatmeal.

➤ The sweetheart of social media, a smoothie bowl is essentially a very thick smoothie topped with a colourful arrangement of fruit, nuts, seeds and/or granola. Made with a purple berry from Central and South America, the acai bowl is a popular variant.

➤ A staple among the plant-based set, a basic Buddha bowl consists of a grain, green, bean and dressing. For breakfast, you might find brown rice topped with a poached egg, kale, black beans and ranchero sauce. ➤ Looking beyond cream of wheat, there is a world of alternative porridge from Chinese congee to cheesy grits to hot millet cereal enjoyed in parts of Africa and Asia.

Judging by the rise of the all-day breakfast, people are eating the first meal of the day for lunch, dinner and anytime in between. Eggs in particu- lar have shed their unhealthy stigma and can be found in a variety of guises ranging from bar snacks to pasta entrées. For your next dinner party, try our easy Parmesan Cloud Eggs with Arugula Salad (recipe page 94) as a first course, which will guarantee plenty of oohs, aahs and hmms. all day, every day

ONE IN FIVE CANADIAN CHILDREN are at risk of starting the school day without breakfast. Since 60 percent of learning hap- pens before noon, the repercussions run deep. Through programs in schools and communities, the Breakfast Club of Canada is helping reverse this unhealthy trend. To support this worthy cause, visit breakfastclubofcanada.org.

24  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2018 I I 1

!

Try to find the Paradigm Outdoor Speakers hidden in this Garden Oasis.

Now is the time to plan your outdoor oasis for summer fun. In the garden. By the pool. On the deck. Discreet, weatherproof installation, DIY or custom. Performance big as the whole outdoors.

Na t u r a l ly Be t t e r Sound

See us at: Backyard Living Expo, The International Center, Mississauga, April 6-8

Simcoe AVU Barrie Stereoland

Natural Sound Kitchener Powerline Electronics Guelph Red Ball Radio Belleville The Power Centre Thunder Bay Signature AVU Ottawa

Gibby’s Electronics Supermarket St. Catharines Kawartha TV & Stereo

Audio One Toronto Brant Stereo Brantford Caledon AV Caledon East Hamilton Radio Hamilton Fairview Hi Fi Burlington

Hear Canada’s premier outdoor speaker brand at any of these locations.

Windsor Trutone Mississauga Whitby Audio Video Whitby

Peterborough Kennedy Hi Fi Markham Liptons AVU Newmarket

Receive 20% OFF any outdoor speaker purchase now through June 30, 2018.

paradigm.com

FOOD SEASONAL

Everyone loves maple in desserts—but what deserves equal attention is the flavour, depth and nuance that it adds to these savoury recipes. MAPLE sAVOURING

BY AMY ROSEN • PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE

MAPLE BUTTERMILK CORNBREAD & FRIED CHICKEN WITH SRIRACHA MAPLE SYRUP recipes on page 100

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING

SEASONAL  SAVOURING MAPLE

4 When you’re ready to serve, lay out a base of arugula, layer on roasted squash and apple slices, then soupspoons of ricotta dotted about. Drizzle with syrup, sprinkle with pis- tachios and season generously with salt and pepper. Serves 4 to 6

½ cup (125 mL) shelled, salted pistachios, roughly chopped Salt and pepper to taste 1 Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil. 2 Slice squash in half lengthwise, seed and stem it, then cut each half into ½-inch (1-cm) wedges (about 15 in total). Place on baking sheet and toss with oil, salt and chili flakes. Roast for about 25 minutes, flipping halfway through, until squash wedges are slightly browned. Set aside to cool. 3 In a small pot over medium heat, combine maple syrup and vinegar. Let reduce down to a thin syrup, about 10 to 15 minutes. Set aside to cool.

Acorn squash has such a tender skin you don’t have to peel it (plus, hello extra fibre.) Peppery arugula is a lovely foil for the sweet and sour reduction, and the fresh ricotta, crisp apples and crunchy nuts make for a power play of a main course salad. 1 medium-size acorn squash, washed 1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil Salt to taste ¼ tsp (1 mL) chili flakes ½ cup (125 mL) maple syrup ½ cup (125 mL) apple cider vinegar 1 clamshell (142 g) baby arugula 1 small McIntosh apple, cored and very thinly sliced 1 cup (250 mL) extra smooth ricotta cheese

WHAT TO SERVE Pierre Sparr Gewürztraminer LCBO 373373, $17.45 Sterling Vintner’s Collection Chardonnay LCBO 669242, $16.00

Roasted Squash Salad with MAPLE -apple cider Vinegar Gastrique

28  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2018

SEASONAL  SAVOURING MAPLE

MAPLE soy brisket & roasted vegetables

4 About an hour before you’re ready to serve, preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Toss carrots and potatoes in oil, salt and pepper and roast on a baking sheet for 20 minutes. Add brisket to the oven and reheat, uncovered, for 20 to 30 minutes, spooning sauce over it a couple of times. Add roasted vegetables to the brisket pan and serve at once. Serves 8 to 10

ROASTED VEGETABLES 1 bunch carrots (multicoloured are nice), washed, stems trimmed 1½ lbs (750 g) baby red potatoes, washed Olive oil, salt and pepper 1 Mix marinade ingredients together, pour over brisket in a roasting pan, cover with foil and refrigerate overnight. Or, if you don’t have that much time to spare, several hours will do in a pinch. 2 When ready to cook, preheat oven to 325°F (160°C). 3 Cook covered brisket for 3 hours, then un- covered for an additional ½ hour. Let cool, then refrigerate (this aids in slicing). When cold, skim fat with a spoon and discard. Remove brisket from sauce and slice thinly against the grain. Add back into pan with sauce.

When feeding a crowd, especially around the holidays, be it Easter or Passover, this is my go-to dish. I’ve swapped out my usual “secret ingredient” Coca Cola for maple syrup, and the salt for soy, and boom, we have a new classic in the making. MARINADE 1 cup (250 mL) maple syrup ½ cup (125 mL) soy sauce ½ cup (125 mL) apricot preserves 1 pouch (28 g) onion soup mix ½ cup (125 mL) tomato sauce (homemade or store-bought) Fresh cracked pepper to taste

WHAT TO SERVE Latour Pinot Noir LCBO 69914, $23.95 Smoking Loon Old Vine Zinfandel LCBO 272393, $15.95

1 single brisket, 5 lbs (2.2 kg)

30  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2018

$17 solution. Great-value wines.

THIS IS VINTAGES

An elegant Malbec from Bordeaux-born Argentine visionary Hervé Fabre. Serve it with baby back ribs off the grill. FABRE MONTMAYOU RESERVA MALBEC 2015 Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina 261867 (XD) 750 mL $17.00 2 Full-bodied & Smooth 93 points ( Descorchados ) From one of the largest family producers on Bordeaux’s Right Bank, this rich red is delicious with lamb burgers. CHÂTEAU DE RIBEBON 2015 AC Bordeaux Supérieur, France 546119 (XD) 750 mL $17.00 2 Medium-bodied & Fruity 91 points ( Wine Enthusiast )

$17 SOLUTION. AVAILABLE IN STORES MARCH 3, 2018. Featured products may not be available in all Vintages locations. Visit vintages.com for availablity and store locations. Prices subject to change.

28128

SEASONAL  SAVOURING MAPLE

2 Fit onion slices in over bacon in an overlap- ping circular formation (keeping the rings of the slices intact), working your way into the centre with a spiral. Squeeze them in as tightly as you can. Season with salt and pepper. 3 Roll out puff pastry dough on a lightly floured surface into a round that’s about ¼ inch (5 mm) thick (if pre-rolled, simply cut off the corners). Lay it over the onions in the pan, tucking small amounts of excess dough in around the edge. Prick through dough about 30 times with a fork. 4 Preheat oven to 450°F (230°C). 5 Place pan over medium-high heat and cook until there’s very little liquid left in the pan and you begin to smell caramel, 25 to 30 minutes. 6 Transfer pan to the preheated oven and bake until pastry is browned on top and dough is cooked through, about 10 to 15 minutes. Re- move from oven and slide a small knife around the outer edge, making sure nothing is stick- ing. Cool pan on a cake rack.

7 After about a half hour, right before you’re ready to turn out your savoury tarte tatin onto a serving plate, heat the bottom of the pan over high heat for 30 to 40 seconds, jiggling it to make sure nothing is sticking. Place the large serving plate over the top of the pan, take a deep breath and flip the tarte onto the plate. Victory! (If any bacon sticks to the bottom of the pan, just peel off and artfully rearrange over onions.) Sprinkle with fresh thyme leaves, if desired. Cut into wedges and serve at once. Serves 6 to 8

Here, the savoury twist on the typical apple tarte tatin sees sweet onions, thickly sliced, subbing for the quartered Granny Smiths. With a crisp puff pastry base, a sweet lick of buttery maple syrup and crisp bacon on top, let’s just say you won’t miss the apples. ⅓ cup (80 mL) unsalted butter ⅓ cup (80 mL) maple syrup 8 slices good quality sliced bacon 2 colossal sweet onions, peeled, and sliced into ½ inch (1 cm) rounds Salt and pepper to taste 1 block (7 oz) puff pastry dough, thawed but still cold 1 tsp (5 mL) fresh thyme leaves (optional) 1 Using the⅓cup (80mL) butter, lightly grease a heavy 9-inch (23-cm) ovenproof frying pan (I use cast iron) and then equally distribute remaining butter in small knobs around the bottom of the pan. Pour maple syrup over the butter. This will eventually turn into caramel. Lay bacon slices in, slightly shingled.

WHAT TO SERVE Cave Spring Indian Summer Riesling VQA VINTAGES 415901, 375 mL, $24.95 Vive la Vie Grenache Syrah Marselan LCBO 470302, $9.95

MAPLE Bacon Onion Tarte Tatin

32  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2018

Over 150 years ago, Frederick Miller had

a dream of bringing quality beer to the

masses. In 1903, his dream was realized

with Miller High Life. Now we welcome

The Champagne of Beers north of the

border in its classic clear glass bottle.

Available exclusively at the LCBO.

*MUST BE LEGAL DRINKING AGE. AVAILABLE AT PARTICIPATING LCBO STORES WHILE SUPPLIES LAST.

TASTING THE irish DRINK  SPIRITS

With St. Patrick’s Day almost upon us, we brought four experts together to share their views on eight of Ireland’s finest whiskeys, some perfect for cocktails, all of them made for appreciative sipping.

BY JAMES CHATTO  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY DARREN KEMPER

t he first time I went to Ireland to look into its whiskeys, back in the 1990s, there were only two distilleries left —Bushmills in the north and Midleton in the south. The most famous whiskeys, including Jameson, Powers and Paddy, were all made at Midleton by master distiller Barry Crockett, who preserved their distinctive identities by blending different proportions of pot-still and continuous-still spirits and by judicious barrel- ageing. I learned to love Irish whiskeys on that trip, but I feared for their future…    Twenty years later, how things have changed! A great surge of enthusiasm and determination has revived the industry. Defunct distilleries have reopened

and new ones have been built (there were 16 in operation the last time I counted). Extinct styles of whiskey have been revived and experiments with different kinds of barrels are going on everywhere. These new spirits come and go through the LCBO’s Whisky Shop (lcbo.com/whiskyshop) and are well worth checking out. Meanwhile, the more established brands are flourishing and have also been busy with innovations of their own. So I convened a tasting of three other whiskey enthusiasts—contributing editor Charlene Rooke from Food & Drink , LCBO Product Consultant Sean Ormsby, and star mixologist Shane Mulvany. Our verdict was unanimous. All things considered, there has never been a more interesting time to explore Irish whiskey.

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2018 35

SPIRITS  TASTING THE IRISH

JAMESON CASKMATES IRISH WHISKEY LCBO 429258, $39.95 JAMESON IRISH WHISKEY LCBO 10157, $35.25 John Jameson started distilling whiskey in Dublin in 1780 and the brand is certainly now the best known, accounting for 70 percent of Irish whis- key sales worldwide, though Powers and Paddy are more popular in Ireland. Here in Canada, this is very probably the first Irish whiskey anyone tries, a good benchmark to start our tasting. the benchmark

M E E T OU R TA S T E R SEAN ORMSBY

After spending 10 formative years selling wine in Califor- nia, Sean joined the LCBO in 2002, and has been a Product Consultant for 12 years. Com- pleting the two-year Wine & Spirits Education Trust (WSET) Diploma gave him a deep ap- preciation of distilled spirits. He instructs tutored tastings in whisky appreciation at the Summerhill LCBO in Toronto.

A triple-distilled blend of pot-still and grain whiskeys, aged a minimum of four years, Jameson has been known to fox people in a blind tasting, some- times mistaken for a brandy. The nose is certainly more full of fruit than grain. Sean found plum, orange, pear and sweet vanilla, joined by toasted nuts and cereal when he tasted it; Shane got honey and spicy cloves. “There’s tons of fruit,” said Charlene, “orange rind and toasted marshmallow. I always think it tastes like a Ricola cough drop—round but not smooth.”     Caskmates is Jameson that has been finished in whiskey casks previ- ously seasoned with stout from Cork’s Franciscan Wells Brewery, a good example of the modern taste for novelty in the Irish whiskey industry. That sort of treatment often lends a creaminess to the spirit, but not this time. Charlene and Sean both experienced a sort of astringent grip—more a feeling than a flavour—and we all found the nose herbal, like mint or even pine. The Jameson fruit was still there, although Shane also discovered hints of dark chocolate and tropical fruit but less of the spice he enjoyed in the Jameson.

“Irish whiskey is poised to make a strong comeback, with dynamic new brands launching off the shoulders of legendary whiskeys like Jameson and Bushmills. ” Sean

36  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2018

SPIRITS  TASTING THE IRISH

MIDLETON BARRY CROCKETT LEGACY SINGLE POT STILL LCBO 446757, $309.95 MIDLETON VERY RARE LCBO 641589, $215.75 The Specialties

M E E T OU R TA S T E R JAMES CHATTO

Senior editor of Food & Drink since the magazine’s inception, James has the enviable job of writing about things he loves. Naturally easygoing—even concilia­ tory—he sometimes won­ ders how he ended up judg­ ing everything from cocktails to restaurants for a living.

Back in the day, when Midleton was the only distillery left in Eire, Barry Crockett created the Very Rare as a most superior blend of single-pot-still and grain whiskeys—a sort of ultra-Jameson, if you will. Our other Midleton whiskey honours Mr. Crockett’s 47 years as master distiller. Pure single-pot-still whiskey, it’s aged in bourbon barrels and partly in unseasoned, unused American oak.

What does that virgin wood impart to the Legacy? Plenty of oaky spice, to be sure, plus vanilla, coconut, caramel, butter­ scotch… “And plum blossom,” said Sean, though that was the only fruitiness we found. And it’s elegantly smooth, despite its strength at 46% alcohol by volume (ABV); any hint of a rough edge has long since disappeared. In the mouth, its something of a shape-shifter, starting out silky and light then growing creamier, while oak tannins loom up, fade away and then re­ turn for the long finish.     I remember the Very Rare from my visit to Midleton’s mighty distillery, just outside Cork. There were only 50 casks of it and it was bottled in individually numbered bottles when­ ever Barry Crockett deemed it to be “ready,” sometime be­ tween nine and 12 years old. It reminded me of Cognac at the time, with a hint of caramel corn and almond paste on the finish. This time the aromatics seemed more like bourbon, we all agreed, “with a fudgey feel,” added Shane. The light-bodied grain whiskeys in the blend contribute to the clean texture while the pot-still spirits add firmness and backbone. Don’t look for flirty fruit or floral notes; this whiskey almost demands to be taken seriously. “At the heart of every Irish whiskey, no matter what else the spirit has been through, you taste the grain .” James

38  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2018

SPIRITS  TASTING THE IRISH

The Exceptions

BUSHMILLS SINGLE MALT 10 YEAR OLD LCBO 131870, $45.95 WRITERS’ TEARS COPPER POT IRISH WHISKEY LCBO 271106, 700 mL, $49.95 The first of the revolutionary new generation of whis- keys, Writers’ Tears is a blend of single malt and single- pot-still spirits, created by distiller Bernard Walsh. It’s a style that typified the finest Irish whiskeys during the 19th century, revived here to enormous acclaim. Bushmills, in Northern Ireland, is the oldest distillery in the world (licensed in 1608) and for decades pro- duced the only single-malt whiskey in Ireland.

M E E T OU R TA S T E R CHARLENE ROOKE A contributing editor to Food & Drink , Charlene studied distilling at Moonshine University in Louisville, Kentucky, and at Dry Fly in Spokane, Wash- ington. She’s a Certified Spe- cialist of Spirits and holds Wine and Spirits Education Trust Level 2 certification.

“All the whiskey drinkers I know love Writers’ Tears —or maybe I just keep getting gifted bottles because we’re all melancholy journalists!” Charlene

Single-pot-still whiskey is a particularly Irish idea, made by distilling a mixture of malted and unmalted barley. Said to have come about because the British imposed extra taxes on malted barley in Ireland, it gives a slightly oily texture and a telltale linseed taste. It’s there in Writers’ Tears, part of an intensely aromatic nose which Charlene found floral and heathery but which reminded Sean of caramel and coconut. We all noted a citrus note, like Meyer lemon. “It’s so round, so sweet, so smooth,” pointed out Shane, “it’s more like a Canadian whisky than a spicy Irish—which may be why it’s so popular here!”     The Bushmills Single Malt was definitely the odd man out in our tasting. There’s no peatiness, of course, because the barley is malted with heat but no smoke, but there’s plenty of vanilla and a touch of bittersweet astringency from the 10 years in oak. “I get a nice mouth-watering acidity,” said Charlene, “like biting into a yellow apple.” “A caramel apple,” added Sean. “The flavours are so intense, with that sweet malt everywhere.” But the body is lighter than many single-malt Scotches because the spirit is distilled three times, not twice.

40  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2018

SPIRITS  TASTING THE IRISH

POWERS SIGNATURE IRISH WHISKEY LCBO 455444, $59.95 REDBREAST 21 YEAR OLD The Favourites A pure single-pot-still whiskey, not blended with grain whiskey, Powers Signature is hugely popular in Ireland. Famously rich and smooth despite being overproof at 46% ABV, it offers exceptional value. Redbreast 21 Year Old is also 46% and is also a national treasure. It won Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible Best Irish Whiskey in both 2015 and 2017. IRISHWHISKEY LCBO 446799, $250.00

M E E T OU R TA S T E R SHANE MULVANY Shane Mulvany has been a bartender for the past 14 years, working in his na- tive Ireland, then New York, London and now Toronto. Shane has won numerous awards for his cocktails, garnering such titles as Toronto’s Best Bartender and World Class Canada Bartender of the Year 2016.

“Yes,” declared Shane, “46% is the sweet spot for Irish pot-still whiskey, especially when you’re using it in a cocktail. Dilution doesn’t diminish it so quickly. I make a Blackthorn (whiskey and sloe gin) with the Powers.” “There’s also a grapey Cognac note that makes me think it would be great in a Sidecar,” suggested Charlene. “Or an Old Fashioned,” said Shane, “made with orange bitters.” The ageing is finished in oloroso sherry barrels, which may account for a ripe blackberry or blackcurrant note in its aftertaste.     Oh, the fabulous length of the Redbreast 21! And the complexity! The list of illusory aromas was the longest yet, including molasses, demerara sugar, figs, nutmeg, licorice, rum dunder… “When Irish whiskeys get old,” said Shane, “they go down the Christmas cake route. Redbreast 12 YearOld has a candy note; this is what it becomes with nine more years.”A few drops of water opened up the Redbreast in a remarkable way, releasing a whole new range of earthy, dried-fruit impressions. Of all the whiskeys we tasted, this is the one I’d most like to meet for a nightcap, before I turn in.

“ Redbreast is like your favourite uncle—the one who always slips you five pounds. I’m happy to see it every time!” Shane

42  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2018

we’re bringing the spring

S P R I NG / S UMME R 2 0 1 8

dive into spring at

URBANBARN.COM

Canada’s LOW-RISK ALCOHOL DRINKING GUIDELINES

Drinking isapersonalchoice. Ifyouchoose todrink, these guidelinescanhelpyoudecide when,where, whyandhow.

FOOD FLAVOURS

LITTLE TEMPTS A SWEET TOOTH MORE THAN THE DEVASTATING COMBO OF COFFEE AND CHOCOLATE, AND THESE DESSERTS OFFER A CROWNING GLORY FOR EASTER DINNER OR ANY OTHER ENTERTAINING OCCASION. MOCHA SWEET ON BY JOANNE YOLLES • PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

MOCHA LAYER CAKE recipe on page 94

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING

FLAVOURS  SWEET ON MOCHA

MOCHA MADELEINES A small teacake may be all you need to satisfy your dessert craving. Or for something to ac- company your next espresso, these madeleines would be perfect. Try to use Dutch process (alkalized) cocoa powder—it has a darker hue and smooth flavour. ½ cup (125 mL) unsalted butter 2 tsp (10 mL) instant coffee or espresso powder ¾ cup (175 mL) sifted cake flour ¼ cup (60 mL) Dutch process cocoa powder ½ tsp (2 mL) baking powder Pinch salt 2 eggs, room temperature ½ cup plus 2 tbsp (155 mL) sugar ¼ tsp (1 mL) vanilla Melted butter and sifted cocoa powder for preparing the pan MOCHA GLAZE 2 oz (60 g) semi-sweet chocolate, chopped 2 tsp (10 mL) unsalted butter, room temperature ¼ cup (60 mL) whipping cream 2 tsp (10 mL) corn syrup ¼ tsp (1 mL) instant coffee or espresso powder Icing sugar for dusting, optional 1 For the madeleine batter, place the butter and coffee powder in a small saucepan and melt over low-medium heat. Set aside to cool to lukewarm.

2 Sift together the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder and salt and set aside. 3 In an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat together the eggs and sugar until the mixture is foamy and lightened in colour, 2 to 3 minutes. Beat in the vanilla. 4 On low speed, add the flour mixture and mix just until combined, scraping the bowl as necessary. Add the butter and coffee pow- der mixture and mix just until incorporated. Transfer the batter to a medium bowl, cover the surface with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours or overnight. 5 Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). 6 Brush the inside of a madeleine pan with a thin layer of melted butter. Dust with sifted cocoa, invert the pan, and tap out the excess cocoa. (If necessary, sift a little more cocoa over any indentations that aren’t fully coated.) 7 Transfer the chilled batter to a piping bag fitted with a ½-inch (1-cm) plain tip. Pipe the batter into the centre of each indentation in the pan, filling each about three-quarters full. 8 Place the pan on a baking sheet and place in the oven. Immediately reduce temperature to 350°F (180°C). Bake 15 minutes or until the madeleines have risen and are set on top.

Remove the pan from the oven, invert over a wire cooling rack and tap lightly to release the madeleines. Cool to room temperature be- fore glazing. 9 For the glaze, place the chopped chocolate and butter in a medium bowl. Combine the whipping cream, corn syrup and instant coffee in a small saucepan. Bring the cream to the boil and pour over the chocolate. Stir until the chocolate is melted and smooth. 10  Once the glaze has cooled slightly but is still fluid, the madeleines can be dipped. Alter- natively, the glaze can be drizzled overtop with a spoon or poured into a paper piping cone and piped in lines. 11  Once the glaze is set, icing sugar can be dusted on top. The madeleines are best the day they are baked, but can be stored in an airtight

container for up to 2 days. Makes about 18 madeleines

WHAT TO SERVE Kavi Reserve Coffee Blended Canadian Whisky LCBO 497891, $29.95 Graham’s 10 Year Old Tawny Port LCBO 404012, $29.95

46  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2018

Only until April 12, 2018

MEGA MILES ¨

Use offers at 5 different Partners to get 1 , 250 AIR MILES ® Bonus Miles *

Use offers at 3 different Partners to get 650 AIR MILES ® Bonus Miles *

COME SHOP WITH US

Check out LCBO offers today at airmiles.ca/megamiles

Valid March 8 to April 12, 2018. * Terms and Conditions apply, and limited quantities of Bonus Offers are available. Visit airmiles.ca/megamiles for full details. ®™ Trademarks of AM Royalties Limited Partnership used under license by LoyaltyOne, Co. and the LCBO.

FLAVOURS  SWEET ON MOCHA

FROZEN MOCHA AFFOGATO

This combination of creamy espresso ice cream studded with shards of chocolate, and a crunchy granita made from strongly brewed coffee, is sure to satisfy any caffeine craving. Just before serving, put the steamer on your espresso machine to work, or any other gad- get that makes hot foamed milk, and top each serving to resemble a cappuccino. A wee bit of demerara sugar adds the final touch of crunch, and of course a little sweetness. To crush the coffee beans for the ice cream, put them on a cutting board and press firmly with the bottom of a small pot.

the whipping cream and milk, into a medium saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat, cover and in- fuse for 30 minutes. 2 Strain the mixture into a 4-cup (1-L) measur- ing cup and top up with more milk or cream, if necessary, to equal 4 cups (1 L). Pour the coffee cream into a clean pot and place over medium heat. 3 In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until thick and light in colour. When the coffee mixture just reaches a boil, slowly pour it into the yolks whisking con- stantly. Pour this mixture back into the pot and place over low-medium heat. Using a wooden spoon, stir the mixture constantly just until it thickens and coats the spoon. Do not allow the mixture to boil. Strain immediately into a clean bowl and add the Kahlúa. 4 Place the bowl in a larger bowl filled with ice water and cool completely. Once com- pletely chilled the mixture can be put into an ice cream machine and frozen according to the manufacturer’s instructions. (The mixture can also be refrigerated for up to 2 days before being churned in the machine.) Once the ice cream is churned, transfer it to a container and place in the freezer for about 1 hour or until slightly firm. 5 Place the chocolate in a small bowl and place over a small pot of simmering water, making sure the bottom of the bowl does not touch

the water. As soon as the chocolate is melted, remove the bowl from the heat and cool slightly. Drizzle about one-fifth of the chocolate over the ice cream and fold in with a spatula. Repeat with the remaining chocolate in stages. Return the ice cream to the freezer until firm. 6 For the granita, combine the espresso or strong coffee while still hot, with the sugar and cocoa. Once the sugar is dissolved, refrigerate until cold then transfer to a wide baking dish. Freeze uncovered for about 1 hour or until the mixture begins to freeze on the top and sides of the pan. Scrape the partially frozen granita with a fork, breaking any large chunks. Return the baking dish to the freezer and scrape with the fork every 30 minutes or so, until the mixture is frozen and completely crystallized, about 3 to 4 hours. The granita should have a light texture. Store in an airtight container until serving. 7 To serve, place a scoop or 2 of ice cream in a bowl or clear jar and top with granita. Top with foamed milk and a sprinkling of demerara sugar. Serves 12

ESPRESSO CHOCOLATE CHIP ICE CREAM 1 cup (250 mL) espresso beans 2 cups (500 mL) whipping cream 2 cups (500 mL) milk 10 egg yolks 1 cup (250 mL) sugar 1 to 2 tbsp (15 to 30 mL) Kahlúa 4 oz (125 g) semi-sweet chocolate

MOCHA GRANITA 1 cup (250 mL) brewed espresso or strong coffee ¼ cup (60 mL) sugar 1 tbsp (15 mL) cocoa powder Foamed milk and demerara sugar for garnish 1 For the ice cream, crush the coffee beans to break them up, then place them, along with

WHAT TO SERVE Meukow Feline VSOP Cognac LCBO 600551, $84.95 Kahlúa Coffee Liqueur LCBO 577957, $29.45

48  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2018