LCBO Food & Drink Spring 2019

SPRING 2019

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EVERY WINE TELLS A STORY 19 Crimes labels come alive on your phone, with harrowing tales of hardship and escape in 19th-century Australia Have you ever wondered what — or who — inspired that arresting label on your favourite new wine bottle? Increasingly, winemakers are using innovative technologies to bring the stories that inspired their products to life. At the forefront of this trend is 19 Crimes, with its premium Australian wines. Now the sepia-toned portraits on the labels recount their own dramatic tales, thanks to the Living Wine Labels app, which uses augmented reality (AR) to animate the true stories of notorious 19th-century English rogues, sentenced to hard time in Australia for committing one of 19 offences. “It’s a great example of how we’re thinking differently about connecting with our consumer to tell the stories behind our wines,” says Living Wine Labels expert Ming Alterman. The app also works its AR magic with the following wines, all available at the LCBO: Wolf Blass Yellow Label, Beringer Brothers, Matua, Gentlemen’s Collection, Chateau St. Jean, and select Lindeman’s products. Just download the app and scan the bottle to learn about Jane Castings, a maid and mother of four banished to the colonies for stealing cheese and bacon; or Michael Harrington, a convict who orchestrated a daring rowboat escape from Australia during an 1876 typhoon.

The only thing better than a great bottle of wine is a great story to go with it.

“The Living Wine Labels app is a fun, engaging way to learn the story of a wine by simply using your phone, and we’re only just scratching the surface of how this technology will change the way we shop for wine.” — Vincent Filhol, LCBO Wines Buyer

2  FOOD & DRI NK HOLIDAY 2018

19 Crimes Hard Chard LCBO 562660, $17.95 Full bodied and rich, this deeply golden Chardonnay features aromas and flavours of ripe apple, butterscotch, vanilla and oak, with a lengthy, buttery finish.

19 Crimes Shiraz Durif LCBO 369777, $19.00

Well rounded and ruby red, this bright Shiraz delivers aromas of black cherry, cassis, chocolate and sweet spice, with lingering flavours of black pepper and smoke. 19 Crimes The Uprising Red Wine LCBO 633438, $18.95 Aged for 30 days in rum barrels, this blend of Shiraz, Cabernet and Grenache is dark and jammy, with plush tannins and aromas of mocha, caramel and baking spice. Consider it a tribute to Australia’s Rum Rebellion of 1808. 19 Crimes Cabernet Sauvignon LCBO 461525, $19.00 Inky crimson in colour, with aromas of strawberry jam, leather and sweet spices, this wine is firm and full on the palate, with subtle sweetness and soft tannins.

NEW!

How to download and use the Living Wine Labels app

DOWNLOAD THE LIVING WINE LABELS

SCAN THE BOTTLE WITH YOUR PHONE CAMERA

DISCOVER THE STORY BEHIND THE WINE

Bring Home

“At the LCBO, we’re passionate about local products, and we are always enhancing our Ontario VQA selection. We pick these wines with you, our customer, in mind so it’s easy to bring local home.”

LAURA RUFFOLO LCBO Ontario Wines Buyer

WAYNE GRETZKY PINOT GRIGIO VQA 326256 750 mL $14.95 LIGHT & CRISP D 9 g/L

MEGALOMANIAC HOMEGROWN RIESLINGVQA 183061 750 mL $14.95 AROMATIC & FLAVOURFUL M 24 g/L

TAWSE SPARK LIMESTONE RIDGE SPARKLING RIESLING VQA 370361 750 mL $20.95 MEDIUM BODIED & FLAVOURFUL D 14 g/L A Vintages Essential*

PROUDLY CANADIAN

BROWNED BUTTER CRAB RISOTTO Scan the code for this recipe or visit lcbo.recipes/9353

THAI MUSSELS Scan the code for this recipe or visit lcbo.recipes/9354

Featured products are available at select LCBO stores. Prices subject to change without notice. *VintagesEssentialsCollection isalways availableatmanyLCBO locations.Visit vintages.com/essentials 30430

SPARKLING VODKA BEVERAGE coming this spring

Available at LCBO

TM/MC

spark your spirit

TABLE OF CONTENTS

FEATURES 58 SPRING SENSATIONS By Christopher St. Onge

58

In honour of spring’s arrival, seasonal dishes brighten up your taste buds at any occasion.

64 INFUSED WITH FLAVOUR By Victoria Walsh

Warm infusions and pretty presentation come together to create distinctively delicious cocktails.

70 DELICIOUS & NUTRITIOUS

By Lucy Waverman with Leslie Beck A dinner party menu that will delight your guests’ palates without derailing anyone’s resolve to eat more nutritiously. ON THE COVER Heated Gin Smash, recipe on page 100. Photography by James Tse

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2019 7

TABLE OF CONTENTS

DEPARTMENTS FOOD

SEASONAL SIMPLY SEASONAL SOUPS  By Michelle Rabin

43

Garnished with special touches, these soups add a pop of colour and flavour to spring menus.

QUICK & EASY CACIO E PEPE TWISTS  By Kristen Eppich

77

Cacio e pepe adapts beautifully to variations on the classic that are easy to create for weeknight suppers.

TRENDS CUTTING-EDGE WEDGES  By Jennifer MacKenzie

87

19

Popular on restaurant menus, wedge salads are bound to become regular favourites.

DRINK

SPIRITS BOURBON 101  By James Chatto Bourbon is having a moment—all the latest and expert recommendations. WINE EVERYDAY SPARKLE  By James Chatto With a versatility too long overlooked, sparkling wine is perfect for far more than special occasions. ENTERTAINING CHEESEBOARD WINNERS  By Crystal and Tara Luxmore Five award-winning Canadian cheeses star on exemplary cheeseboards, alongside perfect matches.

37

IN EVERY ISSUE

49

EDITOR’S NOTES

12

A SPLASH OF LAGER Easy-to-make, creamy and not too spicy, a curried baked dip spiked with honey brown lager. WHAT’S NEW A selection of products from around the world, available at the LCBO and Vintages. MUST-HAVES Things we love for entertaining and around the house. TRENDSPOTTING A look ahead to the year and the food and drink trends that we think people will be talking about.

19

83

21

26

29

RECIPE INDEX

103

KITCHEN ESSENTIALS Meringues: Expand your skills or learn something new through cooking methods, information, recipes and tips.

104

8  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2019

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2019

VP Marketing & Customer Intelligence ..................Kerri Dawson Editor .................................................Jody Dunn Art Directors ...................................Karen Lim, Cathy Cicchini

Senior Editor ...................................James Chatto Food Editor .......................................Lucy Waverman Contributing Editor ......................Charlene Rooke Publication Coordinators ..........Margot Blais, Leslie Virdo Graphic Designers .........................Wincy Law, Dominique Patafio, Pat Turbach Production Manager ...................Mark Greene Production Coordinator .............Judy Haverkort Publication Assistant .................Piper MacFadyen Production Assistant ...................Everton Smith Food Stylists ....................................Eshun Mott, Christopher St. Onge Prop Stylists ....................................Catherine MacFadyen, Andrea McCrindle, Shelly Shnier Contributors ...................................Julia Aitken, Leslie Beck, Kristen Eppich, Anna Kohn, Signe Langford, Crystal Luxmore, Tara Luxmore,

COMING NEXT ISSUE AN OUTDOOR BURGER BAR It’s time to embrace alfresco entertaining

Jennifer MacKenzie, Brenda Morrison, Michelle Rabin, Christopher St. Onge, Eric Vellend, Victoria Walsh

Publisher ..........................................Wayne Leek

For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about LCBO products and policy please contact helloLCBO online at hellolcbo.com, or call toll-free 800•668•5226 or 416•365•5900. TTY Only: 416•864•6898 or 800•361•3291. For advertising in Food & Drink magazine, please contact Beaches Media Services, 416•723•3923 or email kirby@beachesmediaservices.com All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the LCBO’s advertising agreement. Food & Drink is published five times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Volume 26, Number 3. Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 percent post-consumer fibre. Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs.

SNACKING PLATTERS Casual fare and drinks to pair FOR MOM & DAD Chefs cook for their parents FRESH MIXERS Adding new tastes to your cocktails

Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Drink , 55 Lake Shore Boulevard East, Toronto, ON, M5E 1A4 ISSN 1195-5988

WATCH FOR THE EAR LY S UMME R I S S UE OF

Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all LCBO stores.

PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE. Cette publication est également disponible en français.

AVA I LABLE MAY 1

Many of the products featured in this issue are available to purchase online at lcbo.com.

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EDITOR’S NOTES

Borrowingaterm from the travel industry, spring can pretty accurately be described as a shoulder season—that time be- tween winter and summer when you’re just not sure what you’re going to get. There are still plenty of chilly days and nights, yet the first tantalizing signs of the green season are starting to poke through. It’s a challenge for sure when deciding what to wear, what to eat—and when planning a spring issue—but we think we’ve covered our bases in this one.     To help you combat what we hope are the last cold days of the season, we propose any of our warm, steeped cocktails starting on page 64. Infused with flavour, they are ideal for sipping as you curl up with a good book by the fire, or are an especially warm welcome for guests as they arrive for a dinner party.     Bridging the gap between winter and spring, on page 43 are four soup recipes that are perfect for this time of year. Served warm, to help keep you warm, their ingredients o er a hint of what’s to come in the pro- duce aisles. Before we shake o our winter comfort-food cravings, check out “Cacio E Pepe Twists” starting on page 77. While each recipe is sure to satisfy those aforementioned cravings, we’ve freshened them up with unique flavours and techniques. You might also be dreaming of flavourful, garden-fresh salads, but we’re not quite there ingredients-wise. Wedge salads (page 87) are the perfect solution, utilizing sturdier winter cabbage and lettuce to create hearty starters or light mains.     When warmer weather finally does arrive, starting on page 58 we help you mark the occasion with dishes that are perfect for any gather- ing or celebration—Easter, St. Patrick’s Day, a Spring Brunch or a Spring Dinner Party—each one worthy of the starring role on your menus. In “Delicious & Nutritious” on page 70, Food Editor, Lucy Waverman, and nutritionist Leslie Beck have developed a dinner party-worthy menu that takes you from appetizer through to dessert and is full of seasonal ingre- dients—and nutrition! On the drinks side, an icy cold Mint Julep featuring oh-so-trendy bourbon (page 37) is a great way to raise a toast to the season. Or, more traditionally, any of the bubblies featured in “Everyday Sparkle” on page 49 will also do the trick.     Whatever the season brings, we hope you enjoy it—and this issue of Food & Drink . Be sure to follow our social channels @lcbofoodanddrink on Instagram and Pinterest for more great recipes, drinks and collections— all perfectly suited to spring, no matter the weather outside.

PORTRAIT BY JAMES TSE

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING

Over 7,500 unique products to explore LCBO.COM DISCOVER A WORLD OF SELECTION AT

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It’s easy to shop for new releases, great offers on everyday staples, online exclusives, limited-edition finds and more!

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Shop Now. Here’s How. 1. Go to LCBO.com or use the LCBO app 2. Browse products 3. Add to cart 4. Choose your delivery option

Advice from

our experts

Did you know that at the LCBO our team of product consultants is here to help you, whatever your need may be? Whether it’s advice for everyday solutions or a special get-together, our experts are here to help! If you are hosting a beer & cheese tasting, looking for the perfect cocktail solution or to discover the best value wines for your dinner party, we’ve got you covered for any occasion.

Visit your LCBO store or lcbo.com to learn more from our experts

# expertadvice

JAMES Product Consultant, Ottawa

30498

unlearn scotch

“Only by unlearning what we know and collaborating with like-minded mavericks can we try new things, experiment, push whisky boundaries and challenge traditions” .

- Malt Master Brian Kinsman

glenfiddich.ca SKILFULLY CRAFTED . ENJOY RESPONSIBLY . Glenfiddich ® Single Malt Scotch Whis k y is a r egist er ed t r ademark of Wil l iam G r ant & Sons Ltd.

A SPLASH OF LAGER BY SIGNE LANGFORD  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE THE PROOF IS IN THE FLAVOUR WHEN YOU COOK WITH BEER.

Who doesn’t love dunking something crispy into a rich, warm, decadent dip? That combination of soft and smooth, together with crunchy and a little bit salty, is just per- fect, especially with an ice-cold beer. Dips are casual, communal and easy to make; they’re party staples for a reason! This one leans toward the exotic with the warming flavours of cumin, curry, pepper and chili adding a hint of heat, beautifully offset by the creaminess of ricotta and the yeasty notes of the beer. We chose to spike our dip with Sleeman’s Honey Brown Lager ( LCBO 681411, 6 pk, $14.50), which adds just the right amount of malty sweet- ness. It has a hint of hoppy bitterness and keeps the dip moist and delicious—but almost any malty amber brew will do. Scoop up the dip with naan or pita, sturdy potato or corn chips, crackers, raw veggies or fried won ton wrappers. Or, if you can find them in your area, cocktail-size papadums (East Indian lentil chips) are a really special treat.

HONEY BROWN LAGER-SPIKED WARM CURRIED SPINACH & RICOTTA DIP WITH CRUNCHY PANKO TOPPING recipe on page 98

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2019 19

“I invite you to discover our Destination Collection. An enhanced selection of products from around the world—and we’re always adding more .”

To discover these and more products from around the world visit lcbo.com/destination

George Soleas President and CEO of the LCBO

WHAT’S NEW BY JULIA AITKEN • PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

A WORLD OF NEW PRODUCTS AT THE LCBO AND VINTAGES.

BIG RED BLEND Pelee Island Lola Cabernet Franc Cabernet Sauvignon VQA LCBO 618223, $14.95

Braised lamb is lovely to serve when spring evenings still have a touch of winter chill, and this is a winning wine match. Pelee Island Winery’s LOLA brand had scored big with its frizzante blush, and we’re certain that this complex red, with its notes of berries, cedar and pepper, will be equally popular.

IN THE PINK Picnic Wine Co. Rosé Lemonade Cocktail LCBO 554303, 473 mL, $3.50 Bright, fresh and prettily pink, here’s a ready-to-drink cocktail tailor-made for spring. Ontario-based Iconic Brewing combines rosé wine with lem- onade in a handy can ready to chill, pop and enjoy. You’ll love the cocktail’s citrus-strawberry twist and barely-there fizz, not to mention its convenience.

FOR STARTERS La Petite Hitaire Blanc Côtes de Gascogne IGP LCBO 553925, $9.95

At under $10, this LCBO exclusive o ers astounding value. A blend of three French grapes—Ugni Blanc, Colombard and Gros Manseng—it’s elegant and fresh with intense floral and citrus aromas, ripe fruit flavours and a balanced finish. An easy- drinking wine, it is a crowd-pleasing aperitif and also pairs well with apps like grilled shrimp and a creamy dip.

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING

WHAT ’ S NEW

A BALANCED BREW Von Bugle Munich Lager LCBO 618355, 473 mL, $3.15 Von Bugle is an offshoot brewery of Toronto-based Steam Whistle Brewing, and its signature beer is a classic Munich-style lager. Made using traditional German long-ageing brewing methods and just four ingredients—water, malt, hops and yeast—it sports a rich amber colour and a smooth taste that balances gentle bitterness and malty sweetness. EMERALD ISLE GIN Drumshanbo Gunpowder Irish Gin LCBO 635508, $54.95

DOWN UNDER WONDER Dandelion Vineyards Lionheart of the Barossa Shiraz VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 167189, $21.95 This recent addition to the Vintages Essentials portfolio is a big, bold Shiraz crafted from very old Barossa Valley vines. As you’d expect from such a venerable provenance, the wine has generous flavours of black fruit and Christmas-pudding spice followed by firm tannins and notes of chocolate—a perfect pour with roast or grilled red meat.

Raise a unique toast this St. Patrick’s Day with a brand-new gin from Ire- land. Traditional botani- cals — juniper, angelica and orris—combine with unique flavourings such as Irish meadowsweet and gunpowder tea from Chi- na to create a bright, bold spirit. It’s ideal as a base for a spring cocktail or served with ice, tonic and a pink grapefruit wedge.

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CELEBRATING 50 YEARS OF DESIGN EXCELLENCE

I´ÖÖÖÖ»´´´ÖÖÖ≥≥¡ÖÖÁÖ»´´´ÖÖÖ≥

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WHAT ’ S NEW

SPRING GRILL Borsao Tres Picos Garnacha VINTAGES 273748, $19.95

Looking for an excuse to dust off the grill for the first barbecue of the season? Your hamburgers will go from humble to haute teamed with this beautiful blend of Garnacha and Syrah. Spanish winery Bodegas Borsao crafts wines in a modern, forward style; look for lush fruit, leather, vanilla and silky tannins. GREAT NIGHT IN Josh Cellars Merlot LCBO 638221, $18.95

Here’s the right red to open at your next pizza or pasta night. California winery Josh Cellars has long been a favourite with LCBO customers, and no wonder. Known for its food-friendly wines, Josh has produced a Merlot with plum, chocolate and violet on the nose, followed by punchy flavours of black fruit, vanilla and chocolate.

LIMITED- EDITION SPIRIT Jameson Caskmates IPA Irish Whiskey LCBO 635391, $40.95 Lovers of a drop o’ the Irish will wel- come this new whiskey from the re- nowned Jameson Distillery. Finishing its iconic whiskey in craft Irish Pale Ale-seasoned barrels adds crisp hoppy notes and touches of green apple and citrus to a classic spirit. And don’t de- lay! Only 600 cases are available, and when they’re gone, they’re gone.

24  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2019

MUST -HAVES BY BRENDA MORRISON  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

SPRING INTO ACTION AND GREET THE SEASON WITH STYLISH FINDS THAT CLEVERLY COMBINE FORM AND FUNCTION.

CULINARY CHIC This spring, fashionable foodies will be wearing a retro-looking Smock Apron ($39.95), offer- ing full back and front coverage to protect their clothing while they cook up a storm. Choose from three prints (foxes, trees or clouds), each packaged in a reusable bag, along with easy- to-follow instructions for how to wear and tie. Available at Bradshaws (Stratford, 844•271•6281, bradshawscanada.com).

HOME GROWN With the Chef’n Sprouter ($39.99), in just one week, you can go from soaking germinated seeds in water to harvesting sprouts! Such an easy way to add a delicious crunch with nutritious benefits to your sandwiches and salads. Available at Pot & Pantry (Ottawa, 613•565•1212, potandpantry.ca).

BUZZ WORTHY Whether you’re celebrating Earth Day with family or getting together with green-thumb chums, supply everyone with a Pollinator Push Garden ($18, set of 3). Simply push out the blend of seeds for perennial wildflowers that attract bees, butterflies or hummingbirds, and spread into the ground. For retailers: 800•370•4857.

DELICIOUS DESIGN Toronto-based, internationally renowned illustrator Alanna Cavanagh has launched a wallpaper collection showcasing her signature style of line drawings, including a design called Salt and Pepper ($15/sq ft) that is ideal for a kitchen or dining room wall. Make it your own with custom colours, sizes and scale—all print-to-order through rollout.ca.

MICRO BREW

SOLID INVESTMENT Frequent entertaining calls for timeless serveware. This distinctive three- tier Serving Ladder ($139), made of natural acacia wood, is an outstanding example of a durable, classic piece that will stand the test of time. Worth the investment, the trays are detachable for replenishing—and it folds neatly away for storage. Available at Yonge Street Winery (Aurora, 905•841•5552, yongestreetwinery.com).

From Keurig, the K-Mini ($89.99) is not only com- pact for small kitchens or offices, it’s also portable, making it an ideal travel companion for long road trips. The sleek machine is less than 13 cm wide, yet still brews a full mug of coffee using any standard Keurig pod. Available in two colours: Matte Black and Oasis, both at Hudson’s Bay and keurig.ca.

AVOCADO ESSENTIAL If you’re planning on making avocado toast or guacamole in the coming days, slip an unripe avocado inside a wool Avocado Sock ($19.99 each). The natural oils in the wool paired with the warmth of the sock help the avocado ripen in as little as 24 hours. Reusable and made in Canada, the socks come in four colours, available online at theavocadosock.com.

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2019 27

Fun Things Happen When Words Connect

of proceeds invested in Ontario

PlaySmart.ca

At time of purchase, some of the prizes may have already been claimed. Tickets not exactly as shown.

TREND SPOTTING WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR FROM THE WORLD OF FOOD AND DRINK.

BY ERIC VELLEND  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

From new wave veggie burgers to zero-proof spirits, here’s a look at what we think Canadians will be eating and drinking in 2019.

ZERO PROOF The most talked about cocktail ingredient ironically has no buzz at all. Pioneered in England by Ben Branson at Seedlip, non-alcoholic distillates use maceration and dis- tillation to create complex liquids with the same flavour intensity as spirits but without any alcohol. Used by some of the best bars and restaurants in the world, Seedlip has ushered in a new generation of booze-free libations that are called everything from “zero proof” to “placebos.” The company cur- rently has three flavours, but its Garden 108, tasting of peas, hay and herbs, is perfect for the sea- son. Give it a whirl in our sophisti- cated Spring Sour (recipe p. 99). Seedlip Distilled Non‑Alcoholic

Spirits, $45/700 mL, seedlipdrinks-ca.com.

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2019 29

TREND SPOTT ING

RETURN TO BLENDER You’re all set to try a new cocktail recipe but then read: “Steep for 5 to 7 days.” Who has time for that? To speed up the process, bartenders are reaching for a common appliance to instantly infuse spirits and syrups: the blender. The sharp blades and whirring action release colours and flavours of herbs, spices, fruits and vegetables so efficiently that no steeping is required. Try it out in Basil-Infused Gin. First blanch 1 ⁄ 2 cup (125 mL) packed basil leaves in boiling water for a few seconds then cool in ice water. Drain, dry and blend on high with 1 cup (250 mL) gin. Pass through a fine-mesh strainer and enjoy in a verdant Tom Collins or Gin and Tonic.

Behind Bars In 2015, David Castellan of Toronto’s Soma Chocolatemaker had a eureka moment while trying to make raspberry white chocolate. Instead of milk powder, why not use fruit powder? So he freeze-dried, ground and sieved raspberries, and the resulting bar was like doing a swan dive into a pool of raspberry coulis. Since then Soma has added new flavours including mango lassi and blackcurrant with lemon shortbread. Valrhona got in on the action and now offers strawberry and passion fruit couvertures under its Inspiration line, which are used by top confectioners including Toronto’s David Chow (davidhchow.com). Soma Chocolatemaker Fruit Bars, $7.50/35 g, somachocolate.com.

NO-BRAINER First everyone went crazy for disease-fighting antioxidants. Then gut-healthy probiotics were all the rage. Now the buzz in nutrition circles is about nootropic foods, which enhance cognition and memory. The top brain food is oily fish (salmon, sardines) rich in omega-3 fatty acids, which help the brain build nerves and cells. Caffeine, in moderation, is also good for the brain, so think of your morning coffee as medicine. And circling back, antioxidants are neuro-protective, so load up on blueberries, pecans and dark chocolate.

30  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2019

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TREND SPOTT ING

TAKING SIDES No longer happy to sit on the sidelines, vegetables are taking their rightful place at centre stage, stealing the spotlight from meaty mains. Some (cauliflower, celeriac) are being roasted whole before being carved and sauced tableside. Others (beets, rutabaga) are baked like whole fish under a salt crust and cracked open in front of guests to inhale the fragrant steam. Even much-maligned broccoli gets the royal meat treatment in our Roasted Broccoli Steaks with Buttermilk Dressing and Crispy Crumbs (recipe p. 99).

OFF THE SHELF Here’s what to look for at the LCBO this year.

SOUR POWER Intentionally soured using wild yeast or introduced bac- teria, sour beer is a complex brew with a bracingly tart finish. Belgium’s Rodenbach is the unofficial king, and its Grand Cru tastes like the Pinot Noir of beers. RODENBACH GRAND CRU LCBO 492207, 330 mL, $3.30 IN THE MIX From vodka sodas to Old Fashioneds, pre-mixed drinks are increasing in quantity and quality. No shaking, stirring or messing up the bar, just pour over ice and enjoy. J.P.WISER’S OLD FASHIONED DRINK PINK Pink gin is all the rage in Europe and it’s set to hop across the pond this year. Tinted with everything from pink grapefruit to straw­ berries, these gins will add new flavour and a maiden’s blush to your next Martini. WHISKY COCKTAIL LCBO 625996, $29.95

MALFY GIN ROSA LCBO 636068, $34.95

When A&W launched the vegetarian Beyond Meat Burger last summer, the response was so overwhelming that it sold out across Canada in weeks. And for good reason: the plant-based patty delivers the same savoury succulence as beef, and it’s as delicious as any carnivorous item on the menu. The Impossible Burger, another new veggie burger, which is currently only available in the U.S., goes one step further and mimics the bloody juices of medium-rare beef. Look for it to come north of the border and be coveted by vegetarians and meat-eaters alike. VEG BURG: The Next Generation

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RBO BY JAMES CHATTO PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA THE NEWS BROKE LAST SEPTEMBER:

BOURBON IS HAVING A MOMENT. Huge new investment of more than a billion US dollars in 2017 led to soaring production, partly to meet the bourbon-thirsty markets of China and the European Union. President Trump’s tariff wars have thrown a spanner in the works where those destinations are concerned, so I imagine we may see a great deal more bourbon in Canada this year. The time is opportune to bone up on your bourbon background.

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING

SPIRITS  BOURBON 101

THE INVENTION OF BOURBON The first man on record to make a whiskey that meets all the criteria of modern bourbon was a Scottish chemist and physician, Dr. James Crow, around 1835, in Kentucky. It is believed that he introduced the sour- mash method into the process. His best- selling brand, Old Crow, is still available, now a part of the Jim Beam portfolio. 7.5 THERE ARE CURRENTLY WHAT HAPPENS TO ALL THOSE USED BOURBON BARRELS? MANY ARE SOLD TO SCOTTISH MI LLION BARRELS OF AGEING WHISKEY IN THE STATE OF KENTUCKY

THE MINT JULEP

I first tasted a Mint Julep when I was a student at New College, Oxford, back in the day—and I was smitten. The cocktail has been served there every June 1st since 1874, thanks to a bequest from a gentleman-scholar from South Carolina called William Heyward Trapier. His recipe is still used and it is a fine one, but the best Mint Julep I know is being made right now, in Canada. Bartender Wesley Gendron is from Hamilton, Ont., but he’s currently living in Saskatoon, directing the libations at Picaro and at Bar Gusto as well as his own oyster company, Canoe Oysters. Find his recipe on page 100.

DISTILLERIES FOR AGEING SINGLE-MALT SCOTCH.

TRIED AND TRUE

Old Forester LCBO 426148, $32.95 They say the recipe hasn’t changed since 1870. Quite the bargain, this is classic bourbon— medium-bodied, spicy and sweet with a hint of orange and pep- pery rye. A versa- tile essential for any bar.

SINGLE BARREL VARIATIONS

A BOURBON LIQUEUR

DOUBLE OAKED INDEED!

Knob Creek Single Barrel

Jim Beam Red Stag Black Cherry LCBO 420083, $28.25 Flavoured bourbon is un- usual—there’s already so nose than the palate, and it’s sweetened with sugar. Serve it chilled or use it in the kitchen for sweet recipes. much going on! Here, cherry flavour is more apparent on the

Woodford Reserve Double Oaked LCBO 410852, $74.95

LCBO 255232, $63.15 It’s bottled at cask

Finishing the bourbon in a second, new, heavily toasted barrel multiplies the spicy caramel oakiness of regular Woodford Bourbon until it fills your palate like a wooden palisade. Enjoy this one on the rocks.

strength (60%), so add a few drops of water to release the aromatics—citrus, licorice and peppery rye swirling tightly around the oak spice and caramel.

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SPIRITS  BOURBON 101

BOURBON IN THE KITCHEN Bourbon is a handy ingredient for many sweet and savoury recipes. It’s hard to find those intense, bittersweet flavours of oaky spices, vanilla and caramel anywhere else. A small splash adds depth and character to barbecue sauces and glazes, vinaigrettes, chili and tomato soup, as well as ice cream sauces, stewed prunes, pecan pie and sticky toffee pudding. In the Southern states, raw oysters on the half shell are sometimes “cringed” with a teaspoonful of bourbon.

BARREL PROOF BOURBON

Wild Turkey Rare Breed LCBO 455329, $60.95

At 58.4%, this is powerful stuff. Sip it neat to experience the heavy body and richness, then add a few drops of water to release the profound flavours of tangy stewed yellow plums on top of caramel oak. Superb length.

WHEAT AND FRENCH OAK

Maker’s Mark 46 LCBO 225565, $69.95

Maker’s Mark uses wheat, not rye, as its secondary grain, lending smoothness. 46 adds French oak staves to the barrel for the last few months, amplifying spice and caramel notes without a trace of woody bitterness. Sheer elegance.

Check out the recipe for Marinated Cherries from the Autumn 2017 issue of Food & Drink (foodanddrink.ca). Sour cherries marinated in bourbon, maple syrup, orange zest and cardamom… Just one is all you need to make your next Manhattan immortal.

In general, all American and Irish whiskeys are spelt “whiskey” while Scotch and Ca- nadian whiskies are spelt “whisky.” Four bourbon brands break the rule: Maker’s Mark, George Dickel, Old Forester and Early Times all spell themselves “whisky.” JUST TO BE DIFFERENT

What makes a whiskey bourbon?

It must be made from more than 50 percent corn spirit and must age at least two years in charred new oak casks.

50 %

FOR HIGH-END COCKTAILS

Eagle Rare 10 Year Old Bourbon LCBO 604785, $52.85 At 45%, this is the perfect strength for longer cocktails such as a Jim Collins. Nut- meg, cinnamon pecans and vanilla toffee roll around on your palate, evolving as the minutes pass. Drier than many bourbons.

THE SOUR- MASH SECRET

Every modern straight bourbon is a sour-mash whiskey, using a little of the residue from one fermentation batch to start the next.

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ANCNOC 18-YEAR-OLD HIGHLAND SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY Hailing from Aberdeenshire’s Knockdu Distillery, anCnoc (pronounced a-nock) is aged in ex-Sherry and ex-Bourbon casks and wows with its rich sweetness and warm nish. Medium & Fruity 629576 700mL $216.00

CALLING ALL CONNOISSEURS

Discover a curated selection of rare and renowned spirits

From limited-edition Scotch, Bourbon and Irish whiskey from the world’s top distilleries to small- batch artisanal spirits from new craft producers, this exclusive, ever-changing collection is loaded with treasures. Sign up for the monthly Whisky Shop newsletter and be the rst to know about our latest releases.

Don’t miss a dram: sign up at myLCBO.com for the latest updates

# expertadvice

For more Whisky Shop exclusives, visit lcbo.com/whiskyshop

30232

THE BALVENIE Essentials

TheWorld’s Most Handcrafted Single Malt

THE BALVENIE DISTILLERY COMPANY LIMITED. REGISTERED IN SCOTLAND. COMPANY NUMBER: SC138003. REGISTERED OFFICE:THE BALVENIE MALTINGS, DUFFTOWN, BANFFSHIRE,AB55 4BB. Represented by PMA Canada Ltd. | www.pmacanada.com HANDCRAFTEDTO BE ENJOYED RESPONSIBLY

FOOD  SEASONAL

C r e a m y W i l d M u s h r o o m & A l m o n d S o u p

r e c i p e o n p a g e 9 7

simply

WITH EXCEPTIONALLY PRETTY GARNISHES, THESE SOUPS ADD A POP OF COLOUR, FLAVOUR AND STYLE TO SPRING ENTERTAINING. SEASONAL

SOUPS

BY MICHELLE RABIN  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA  •  ILLUSTRATIONS BY EMILIE SIMPSON

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2019 43

FOOD  SEASONAL SEASONAL  SIMPLY SEASONAL SOUPS

6 Stir in peas and half the Parmesan cheese. Add in reserved chicken meat and stir to heat through, about 3 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. 7 Divide soup among bowls. Garnish with re- maining Parmesan cheese and chopped parsley. Makes about 8 cups (2 L); serves 8

This chicken soup is a perfect recipe to suit any springtime weather. A rich chicken and Parmesan broth will comfort you through chilly spring nights, while spring peas, egg drops and leeks help introduce those first signs of warmweather. If you have one, adding a piece of Parmesan rind when simmering your soup gives a deeper richer flavour. Remove before serving. 3 chicken legs with thighs attached 4 cups (1 L) chicken stock 4 cups (1 L) water 2 leeks, dark green parts removed 1 carrot, halved lengthwise 1 stalk celery, halved lengthwise ½ cup (125 mL) parsley with stems 1 piece of Parmesan rind (if available), 3 inches (8 cm) long 1 tbsp (15 mL) butter 3 eggs, whisked 1 cup (250 mL) freshly shucked peas (frozen are okay if fresh are not available) 1 cup (250 mL) lightly packed grated Parmesan 1 Place the chicken in a large pot and cover with chicken stock and 4 cups (1 L) of water. Heat over high until boiling. Reduce heat im- mediately to low and simmer. Using a large spoon, remove any greyish foam that rises to the surface of the pot. 2 Once stock is clear, add in 1 leek, carrot, cel- ery, parsley and Parmesan rind. Simmer until chicken is cooked through and stock is deep golden, about 1 hour. 3 Remove chicken from pot and set aside to cool slightly. Strain stock through a fine mesh sieve. Discard leek, carrot and celery or reserve for another use. Remove skin from the chicken and discard. Tear meat off the bones and set aside. Discard bones. 4 Slice remaining leek into ¼-inch (5-mm) rounds. Heat butter in large pot over medium heat. Add leeks and cook until translucent and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Pour in stock and bring to a simmer. 5 Place the whisked eggs in a bowl and add to stock, about 1 tbsp (15 mL) at a time. Egg drops will cook immediately. Continue until all the egg is dropped into the soup. cheese, divided Salt and pepper ½ cup (125 mL) chopped parsley

WHAT TO SERVE Martini Prosecco DOC LCBO 384651, $15.95 Tio Pepe Extra Dry Fino Sherry LCBO 231829, $18.90

C h i c k e n B r o d o w i t h E g g D r o p s , S p r i n g P e a s & L e e k s

44  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2019

R o a s t e d C a u l i f l o w e r & D a n d e l i o n S o u p w i t h P u m p k i n S e e d s

1 cup (250 mL) chopped parsley Zest and juice of 1 lemon Seasoned Pumpkin Seeds (recipe on page 97) 1 Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). 2 Place florets on a baking sheet and drizzle 2 tbsp (30 mL) of olive oil overtop. Sprinkle on 1 tsp (5 mL) of salt. 3 Roast cauliflower in oven until golden brown and crisp, about 40 minutes, flipping florets halfway through cook time. 4 Heat remaining 1 tbsp (15 mL) of oil over medium heat in a large pot. Add onion and gar- lic and cook until golden and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Add roasted cauliflower and nutri- tional yeast and stir to combine. 5 Pour in vegetable stock and remaining salt. Increase heat to high and bring to a boil. Add

This soup is dairy-free, gluten-free and vegan. Roasted cauliflower and nutritional yeast give it a creaminess that will make you bet there’s dairy in the soup. Dandelion greens and baby spinach introduce earthy notes. Delicious served warm or cool, top with seasoned pump- kin seeds for a hit of crunch and umami.

in dandelion leaves, spinach and parsley, then decrease heat to low. Simmer for 20 minutes. 6 With an immersion blender, purée the soup until smooth. Stir in lemon zest and juice right before serving. 7 Serve, garnishing soup with Seasoned Pump- kin Seeds. Makes about 5 cups (1.25 L); serves 6 WHAT TO SERVE Novas Gran Reserva Organic Sauvignon Blanc LCBO 553800, $15.90 Beau’s Lug-Tread Lagered Ale LCBO 169334, 4 pk, $16.95

1 cauliflower, cut into small florets 3 tbsp (45 mL) olive oil, divided 1 tbsp (15 mL) salt, divided 1 onion, roughly chopped 6 garlic cloves, smashed ¼ cup (60 mL) nutritional yeast 4 cups (1 L) vegetable stock 2 cups (500 mL) dandelion leaves, roughly chopped 2 cups (500 mL) packed baby spinach

FOOD  SEASONAL SEASONAL  SIMPLY SEASONAL SOUPS

1 Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Line a bak- ing tray with parchment. 2 Zest oranges and reserve zest for later. Cut oranges in half. Place oranges, sweet potatoes and onions on baking tray. Bake until oranges begin to caramelize and sweet potatoes are tender enough to pierce through with a knife with no resistance, about 1 hour and 20 min- utes. Remove tray from oven and let cool for 10 minutes. 3 Peel the potatoes and onions and dis- card skin. Roughly chop, keeping them each separate. 4 Heat oil in a large pot over medium-high. Place garlic and onions in the pot with the salt and cumin. Cook until onions are beginning to turn golden, about 5 minutes. 5 Add in sweet potato and stir with a wooden spoon. Use the spoon to mash the potato as you stir. 6 Firmly squeeze the roasted oranges to re- lease their juices into the pot. Add in the zest. Pour in the vegetable stock then increase heat to high. Bring mixture to a boil, then immedi- ately reduce to medium-low and simmer for 20 minutes, stirring intermittently. 7 Blend soup with an immersion blender until smooth. Stir in apple cider vinegar and con- tinue to simmer for another 5 minutes. 8 Serve soup and topwith SpicyMaple Granola. Make 6 cups (1.5 L); serves 6 WHAT TO SERVE Batasiolo Bosc d’la Rei Moscato d’Asti DOCG LCBO 277194, $16.95 Henry of Pelham Special Select

In this recipe, the sweet potatoes are slow-roasted in the oven until soft and caramelized, giving this soup a deep, rich flavour. Orange juice and zest wake it up with sweetness and tang. This deli- cious purée gets topped with a crunchy granola packed with walnuts, seeds and spices, sweetened with maple syrup. Watch out! A hint of cayenne gives it a fiery kick. 2 navel oranges 5 medium-size sweet potatoes, about 2½ lbs (1.13 kg) 2 unpeeled Spanish onions, halved

1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil 4 garlic cloves, minced 1 tsp (5 mL) salt 1 tbsp (15 mL) cumin 6 cups (1.5 L) vegetable stock ¼ cup (60 mL) apple cider vinegar Spicy Maple Granola (recipe on page 96)

Late Harvest Vidal VQA LCBO 395228, 375 mL, $19.95

S w e e t P o t a t o & O r a n g e S o u p w i t h S p i c y M a p l e G r a n o l a

46  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2019

OUR IDEA OF THAT “NEW-CAR SMELL” IS PINE-SCENTED FRESH AIR.

There’s nothing like the feeling of being outdoors, except the feeling of getting there in the 2019 Subaru Outback. Symmetrical Full-Time All-Wheel Drive, X-MODE, and generous ground clearance let you handle any road. And tons of SUV-like storage space lets you handle almost anything you want to take with you. All with refined comfort that’s a breath of fresh air.

FOR LIFE’S AUTHENTIC ADVENTURES Learn more at subaru.ca/outback

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9 CONSECUTIVEWINS FOR BEST MIDSIZE UTILITYVEHICLE (2 ROW)

Model shown is 2019 Outback 3.6R Premier with Eyesight CVT (KD2PE6). Vehicle shown solely for purposes of illustration, and may not be equipped exactly as shown. ** EyeSight® is a driver-assist system which may not operate optimally under all driving conditions. The driver is always responsible for safe and attentive driving. System effectiveness depends on many factors such as vehicle maintenance, and weather and road conditions. See Owner’s Manual for complete details on system operation and limitations. Ratings are awarded by the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (IIHS). Please visit www. iihs.org for testing methods. ALG is the industry benchmark for residual values and depreciation data. www.alg.com. See your local Subaru dealer for details. Outback and Subaru are registered trademarks.

celebrate the Moment

glenfiddich.ca SKILFULLY CRAFTED . ENJOY RESPONSIBLY . Glenfiddich ® Single Malt Scotch Whis k y is a r egist er ed t r ademark of Wil l iam G r ant & Sons Ltd.

DRINK WINE EVERYDAY SPARKLE BY JAMES CHATTO • PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

Time to break out the bubbly for far more than special celebrations— sparkling wine has a versatility that has been too long overlooked.

F IS FOR FIZZ —for frivolous, food-friendly, e ervescence. And f is for fun! Bubbly was once reserved for ceremonial moments; today, corks are popping for no reason at all, before, during and after everyday meals. Where food matching is concerned, brut sparkling wine is spectacularly versatile—and charmingly unpretentious: as good with popcorn as it is with caviar, and in cocktails too!     The bubblies we’re featuring here are all great-value bottles made in the traditional method, just like Champagne, with a second, fizz-inducing fermentation taking place in the bottle. But to get the ball rolling, let’s give a nod to Prosecco, which gets its second fermentation in pressurized tanks—and is none the worse for it. Our first cocktail, The Negroni Sbagliato, is all the rage in Italy.

THE NEGRONI SBAGLIATO recipe on page 98

Once upon a time, a clueless bartender accidentally made a Negroni with Prosecco instead of gin, or so the story goes. Hence the name of this delicious cocktail— sbagliato means mistaken. Or you can think of it as an Americano spritz. The dry bubbly sharpens the bittersweet taste of vermouth and Campari beautifully. Try Mionetto Prestige Brut ( LCBO 483339, $16.95).

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING

WINE  EVERYDAY SPARKLE

My favourite wine of all for sushi, cava can also handle more pungent flavours, not by confronting them but by continuously refreshing your palate.

CAVA

SEGURA VIUDAS BRUT RESERVA CAVA LCBO 216960, $15.95 Pleasing crowds for decades, this eminently reliable bubbly elevates a party but also repays attention with notes of apple, pear, citrus, olive and almond dancing around your tongue. Other cavas may now include Chardonnay in an effort to mimic a more international style—I can’t help feeling that’s a shame. This wine is great with shellfish and    Cava was invented in 1872 by Don José Raventós, a Catalan man of wealth and vision— and a keen Champagne fan. He excavated a cel- lar in his garden and emerged seven years later with 72 cases of bubbly made from three local grapes—Xarel-lo for structure, Macabeo for fruitiness and Parellada for elegance. He called his new company Codorníu—and cava was born. People eat dinner very late in Barcelona, preced- ing it with the very civilized aperitif of a glass of brut cava served with some flavourful nibble like green olives stuffed with almonds or ancho- vies. The wine’s acidity balances the saltiness of the olives perfectly.

pasta with creamy seafood sauce. CODORNÍU BRUT CLASICO LCBO 215814, $14.40

The Xarel-lo grape gives traditional cavas (like this one) a distinctive hint of earthiness, which some people love and others find off-putting. It’s what makes this wine such an excellent match for sushi, echoing the nuttiness of the rice. Frothy, delicate and very refreshing, the Clasico shows apple and pear aromas with a hint of almonds on the longish finish. Amazing value!

THE CATALAN 75 recipe on page 98

This variation of the classic French 75 cocktail uses a bold, fruity Catalan brandy such as Torres 10 Year Old ( LCBO 522359, $29.95) instead of gin and cava instead of Champagne. The lemon juice and sugar creates a fascinating sweet- and-sour bridge between the two.

50  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2019

A TASTE OF THE MEDITERRANEAN

René Barbier Mediterranean White $9.95 Available at the LCBO #332767. Price subject to change.

WINE  EVERYDAY SPARKLE

GRANDE CUVÉE 1531 DE AIMERY CRÉMANT DE LIMOUX LCBO 428086, $18.95 Once there was a sparkling wine called Blanquette de Limoux made from a grape called Mauzac. It was first produced in 1531—long before Champagne—and it tasted interestingly of cider apple. It’s still made today but, in the 1990s, wineries around Limoux, in southwestern France, introduced another bubbly with a more fashionable, international style, adding local Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc to the Mauzac. They called it Crémant de Limoux and this is a fine example full of peach, Granny Smith apple and yeasty brioche. CHÂTEAU DE MONTGUÉRET CRÉMANT DE LOIRE LCBO 217760, $19.95 Chenin Blanc stars in this Loire bubbly giving aromas of pear and citrus. A fine, creamy mousse delights your tongue then a tangy, citrusy acid kick washes in. Pair it with blinis with sour cream and caviar or (less posh but equally yummy) crackers with cream cheese and lumpfish roe. DOMAINE CHANDON BRUT CLASSIC LCBO 218032, $31.55 Made in the Napa Valley from Champagne’s classic trio, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, you can think of this as a California Crémant, though it’s pricier than French versions. A robust bubbly with tangy green apple and melon fruitiness. Medium-bodied, it can take on fried foods with ease—anything from fried chicken to frites to dainty air-filled cheese gougères— and it’s super with dim sum.

CRÉMANT Traditional-method sparkling wine is made in many parts of France outside Champagne, and is usually known as Crémant followed by the name of the area it is from. Less than $20, these are terrific bargains as an aperitif or with a meal.

Why is brut bubbly so good with potato chips and fried snack foods? Opposites attract. The refreshing fizz and the high acidity balance the salt and fat and find a happy medium in your mouth. CHIPS WITH THAT?

THE COMBIER ROYALE recipe on page 98

It’s well known that Kir Royale comes from Burgundy and is made with Crémant de Bourgogne and the local crème de cassis liqueur. But jump to the Loire and use Crémant de Loire and Triple Sec and you could call it a Combier Royale, named for Jean-Baptiste Combier, who invented Triple Sec orange liqueur in Saumur in 1834. If you can’t find L’Original Combier Triple Sec, use Cointreau.

52  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2019

THE REFRESHING TASTE OF COORS, WITH A HINT OF ORANGE.

COMING THIS SUMMER.

Must be legal drinking age. Available at participating LCBO stores for a limited time.