LCBO Food & Drink Spring 2020

SPRING 2020

The Spring Issue

SPECIAL ISSUE

COMPLIMENTS OF

Enjoy 40% FEWER CALORIES than a glass of white wine *

*40% fewer calories per 1.5oz serving of Ketel One Botanical Spirit Drink (73 cal; 0g carbs) and 3.5oz soda water than a 5oz serving glass of white table wine (CNF: 121 cal; 3.82 g carbs).

THE BOTANICAL SPRITZ

Mix 1.5oz of your favourite Ketel One Botanical. Top with 3.5 oz of soda water. Garnish with fresh fruits and herbs.

PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY.

The possibility of what we can accomplish working alongside our people, partners, and customers fills me with optimism. This is only the beginning. “ ”

George Soleas President and CEO of the LCBO

We’re bottling something good.

It’s a new platform called the Spirit of Sustainability, which we’ll infuse into everything we do. We’re going to make good decisions that improve the well-being of everyone and everything we touch, because if we take care of today, we’ll have plenty to cheers to tomorrow. Read more about the Spirit of Sustainability starting on page 16.

Location Courtesy of Our Good Partner: Evergreen Brick Works

ADVERTISING FEATURE

LOVE OF THE LAND Sustaining great taste in Ontario wine Ontario may be one of the world’s youngest winemaking regions, but it’s becoming one of the most environmentally responsible. Here, innovation, globally endorsed grape-growing practices and a passion for the land abound. In Prince Edward County, you’ll find Sandbanks Winery, which is committed to reducing the use of herbicides and pesticides. Pelee Island Winery uses a pest management system developed by the World Wildlife Fund, while Niagara’s Henry of Pelham pursues wetland restoration, biofiltration, reforestation and water conservation. Wherever you look, Ontario wineries are working hard to ensure their delicious offerings — and the lands they’re grown on — are enjoyed for generations to come.

Sandbanks Dunes Red VQA LCBO 346445 | 750 mL | $14.95 Full-bodied & Smooth (D – 15 g/L) A masterful blend of foch, gamay and cabernet grape varieties that’s full of raspberry and chocolate flavours.

Henry of PelhamEstate Chardonnay A VINTAGES ESSENTIAL* 268342 | 750 mL | $21.95 Full-bodied & Rich (XD – 2 g/L)

Pelee Island Lola Gewürztraminer VQA LCBO 618231 | 750 mL | $13.95 Off-dry & Fruity (M – 24 g/L) An incredibly fragrant white that brings jasmine, lychee, apricot and melon notes.

Elegant, with bold ripe fruit, vanilla, smoke and buttered-toast flavours. Creamy and rich.

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Featured products are available at select LCBO stores. Prices subject to change without notice. *Vintages Essentials Collection is always available at many LCBO locations. Visit lcbo.com/vintages-essentials

TABLE OF CONTENTS

56 Celebrate the Season

Features

56 Celebrate the Season By Victoria Walsh

An uncomplicated menu you can be confident of pulling off—plus it’s pretty in pastels for Easter or any spring dinner party.

64 Coming to Terms by Charlene Rooke

Puzzled by the differences between organic, natural and biodynamic on wine labels? We clear up the confusion—and offer up great choices for each style. 70 Milky Ways By Christopher St. Onge With all the milk substitutes making their way into our fridges, we’ve developed some delish dishes that make great use of them in cooking.

ON THE COVER Le Classique Cocktail, recipe on page 98. Photography by Darren Kemper.

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FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2020

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Departments FOOD 47 farm to table FORCES OF NATURE By Jennifer MacKenzie Shining a spotlight on just a few of the Ontario farmers making a real effort towards sustainability—growing nutritious food while taking care of Mother Nature.

77 BETTER FOR YOU RAISING THE BAR By Marcella DiLonardo

41 Waste Not, Want Not

Delicious, nutritious protein bars are a snap to make and perfect for toting along to stave off hangry moments.

91 BASICS DOING LUNCH By Eshun Mott

With a little planning and prep on a Sunday, skip fast food in favour of tasty healthy lunches for the week ahead.

DRINK 35 Greener choices SUSTAINABLE SIPS By Chris Johns, Tara Luxmore and Charlene Rooke A tip of the hat to local winemakers, distillers and brewers tackling sustainability—look for the awesome results on LCBO shelves.

85 GIFTING SPRING IT ON THEM! By Dré Dee

A new season for socializing calls for great new bottles to have on hand or gift to your host.

41 TRENDS WASTE NOT, WANT NOT By Christine Sismondo

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Bartenders are taking on a zero-waste approach too, using up brines, overripe fruit and herbs in shrubs and syrups that add zing to your cocktails.

In every issue

12 EDITOR’S NOTES 15 INSIDE SCOOP By Eric Vellend The latest bits, bites and sips to keep you in the know. 103 RECIPE INDEX

104 easy entertaining PULL IT TOGETHER! By Irene Matys

Decide to have the gang over at the last minute? Assemble a few ingredients alongside the right bottle and you’re ready to host!

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SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK

Coming next issue Available April 29

Cocktails for a Crowd Serving drinks to the gang is a cinch with big-batch recipes Time to Celebrate A crowd-pleasing seasonal menu to honour any occasion Soda Shoppe Amp up your cocktails with fresh new flavour twists Mint Conditions From appetizers to dessert, mint freshens everything up

Many of the products featured in this issue are available to purchase online at lcbo.com.

VP Marketing & Customer Intelligence Vanda Provato Editor Jody Dunn Art Directors Karen Lim Cathy Cicchini Contributing Editor Charlene Rooke Publication Coordinators Graphic Designers Dominique Patafio Pat Turbach Production Coordinator Judy Haverkort Publication Assistant Piper MacFadyen Production Assistant Everton Smith Leslie Bolter Margot Blais

Food Stylists Eshun Mott Christopher St. Onge Prop Stylists Christine Hanlon Catherine MacFadyen Andrea McCrindle

For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about LCBO products and policy please contact helloLCBO online at hellolcbo.com, or call toll-free 800•668•5226 or 416•365•5900. TTY Only: 416•864•6898 or 800•361•3291. All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the LCBO’s advertising agreement. Food & Drink is published five times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Volume 27, Number 3. Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 percent post‑consumer fibre. Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs.

Shelly Shnier Contributors Dré Dee, Marcella DiLonardo, Chris Johns, Anna Kohn, Tara Luxmore, Jennifer MacKenzie, Irene Matys, Brenda Morrison, Eshun Mott, Christine Sismondo, Christopher St. Onge, Eric Vellend, Victoria Walsh Publisher Wayne Leek Advertising Sales Kirby Miller, Beaches Media Services kirby@beachesmediaservices.com

Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Drink , 55 Lake Shore Boulevard East, Toronto, ON, M5E 1A4 ISSN 1195-5988

Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all LCBO stores. Prices are subject to change without notice. Cette publication est également disponible en français.

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SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK

B E YO N D MATE R I AL

EDITOR’S NOTES

Welcome to our Spring issue!

For many years, “sustainability” was a buzzword—something you heard about and read about, but which left you puzzling how you could possibly make a difference. Well, that thinking is so last decade. A new generation is tackling the challenge head-on. They’re teaching us that the only way to make a difference is to start with yourself, and that making personal choices can and will dictate what companies and governments do. Suddenly “sustainability” has changed from a buzzword into a way of life. We celebrate this new approach to how we live, eat, drink and shop in the pages of this issue. Starting with “Inside Scoop,” on page 15, we’re shining a spotlight on Ontario chefs, merchants and producers to demonstrate how small things can make a difference. By showcasing zero- waste grocery stores and zero-waste restaurants—and offering tips for shopping (what to buy and what to carry it in) and cooking (to avoid food waste)— we hope to get everyone thinking about applying these practices at home. In “Sustainable Sips” we delve a little deeper into what some Ontario wineries, breweries and distillers are doing to be better partners and stewards of the environment. You’ll find that story on page 35 and their products on LCBO shelves. Starting on page 64, we take

a glossary approach to some earth- friendlier wine styles, breaking down what it means to be an organic, natural or biodynamic wine and suggesting which bottles to try. On the cocktail side, we share recipes from three sustainable cocktail bars in Toronto that take a no-food-waste approach to their mixology: read about them and find their delicious cocktails on page 41. Making better choices for the planet tends to go hand in hand with making better choices in what we eat. In “Raising the Bar,” on page 77, we offer easy, nutritious and inexpensive homemade takes on protein bars. “Doing Lunch,” on page 91, demonstrates how a little weekend prep leads to healthy lunches for the week—and leaves less food to throw out at the end of it. And “Milky Ways,” on page 70, makes good use of all the alternative milks making their way into our refrigerators. We hope you enjoy this issue and that (like us!) you’re inspired to include these ideas in your everyday life. We aim to make sustainability an ongoing component of future issues of Food & Drink .

PORTRAIT BY JAMES TSE

@lcbofoodanddrink

We asked LCBO President and CEO George Soleas to share what the LCBO is doing in support of a more sustainable future. You can read all about the new Spirit of Sustainability platform starting on page 16.

lcbofoodanddrink

LCBO

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SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK

Leslie & Fred wanted to do more than just eat

authentic Thai food

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Inside scoop The latest bits, bites and sips to keep you in the know.

BY eric vellend | PHOTOGRAPHY by darren kemper and james tse

16 A toast to sustainability 20 The urge to splurge 20 Thinking outside the blue box 20 What can I do with zested oranges? 22 Bulking up 22 Everything but the scales 24 Four reusable shopping solutions 26 What can I do with zested lemons? 26 Ace in the hole 26 Golden anniversary 26 Recycling 101 28 What do they mean? 28 More-ganic bottles 28 Scrappy chef If you want to lighten your carbon footprint, you can make a difference by changing the way you eat, drink and shop. From zero‑waste grocery stores and next-level recycling to reducing food waste and more, here’s a handy guide to sustainable living at home.

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26 Ace in the hole

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FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2020

INSIDE SCOOP

We asked LCBO’s President & CEO George Soleas to share more about the new Spirit of Sustainability initiative.

Why is it so important to you that the LCBO build on its legacy in this area? I am proud of our past accomplishments but saw an opportunity to make sure our social responsibility efforts are focused and measurable. Under Spirit of Sustainability, we will deliver on our promise to support a sustainable future for our business, industry, and the communities in which we live and work. I want customers to feel confident that the LCBO is pushing the industry in a positive direction. The possibility of what we can accomplish working together fills me with optimism. Howwill the LCBOgive customers the oppor­ tunity tomakemore sustainable choices? Today’s customers are well-informed, and we want to help guide them toward choices aligned with their values. Providing information—including where a product comes from, how it is grown and how it impacts the soil and the environ- ment—is something we will be doing much more of in‑store and online. How is the LCBO encouraging suppliers to be more sustainable? Sustainable practices are expected of our supply partners. The entire industry is moving in a more sustainable direction and it is an exciting time. The LCBO pioneered the transition to lightweight glass, which is often referred to outside our borders as the “Canada bottle.” Lighter bottles mean reduced carbon emissions, and we are working alongside our suppliers and partners to expand this program to include more products. We will also celebrate the work and stories of our partners, who are making great strides to operate in a sustainable manner, so that others are motivated to follow suit. Howwill the LCBO improve the well-being of its communities? We will continue to support charities by activating the power of our network to raise needed funds. This spring we are partnering with Evergreen Canada, a not-for-profit dedicated to finding urban development opportunities to make our cities more green, liveable and prosperous.

A toast to sustainability At the LCBO, sustainability is more than a buzzword. It’s a commitment that will benefit everything from the lives of our customers to the health of the planet. Learn more about this new LCBO initiative called Spirit of Sustainability.

The LCBO is no stranger to sustain- ability. Social responsibility has been at the core of our mandate for more than 90 years. But as times change, one must adapt and grow. That’s why we have developed a new platform to engage our customers, partners and employees on our journey to making the world a better place. It’s called the Spirit of Sustainability.

    As one of the largest purchasers of alcohol in the world, the LCBO feels we have a responsibility to lead by exam- ple, improve the sustainability of our industry, and set new standards for our partners. With Spirit of Sustainability, not only will we increase our focus on the health of the planet, we will do the same for the well-being of our employ- ees and communities, and encourage others to do the same.

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SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK

Y

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now available for t e olidays

and all t e days in-between

INSIDE SCOOP

Sustainability in Action Spirit of Sustainability has been in the works for a while. Here are some examples:

Good People, Good Planet, Good Partnerships Spirit of Sustainability is made up of three key pillars to support building a more sustainable future. Good People focuses on improving the well-being of our customers, employees and communities. Good Planet aims to minimize our impact on the environment. Good Partnerships will improve the sustainability of the industry through leadership.     With these three pillars, the LCBO has developed firm commitments that will ensure we deliver on our promise to build a sustainable future.

It expanded its industry-leading Lightweight Glass

program to include more bottles sold at the LCBO. This policy helps reduce our carbon footprint through more sustainable distribution.

Good Partnerships • Leading sustainability standards • Support and recognize sustainable partners

Good People • Safe and informed consumption

Good Planet • Sustainable stores • Sustainable production and distribution • Greener buildings

• Thriving communities • Engaged employees

Sometimes products get damaged in transit. But instead of throwing away the entire pallet, undam- aged goods are rescued and repackaged in recyclable 4- and 6-packs, helping to reduce waste.

To find out more about Spirit of Sustainability, visit lcbo.com/sustainability

Community impact

Fundraising The incredible generosity of LCBO customers set a new fundraising record in 2019 of more than $12.7 million dollars. With Spirit of Sustain- ability, charitable efforts will have an even big- ger impact. We will be welcoming new charity partners as we move to centre our fundraising initiatives around four campaigns, Environmen- tal Impact, Safe and Informed Consumption, Support Local, and Community Well-being. We will continue to provide customers with alterna- tive ways of donating through in-store merchan- dise and offering online giving on LCBO.com.

Safe and informed consumption To demonstrate our commitment to safe and informed consumption, the LCBO created the Responsible Service Program. Through this program, we will amplify our work preventing alcohol consumption amongst minors and those who appear intoxicated, in order to build safer communities for all Ontarians. The LCBO is dedicated to increasing awareness of our Lab, a product testing and innovation department. This industry-leading facility conducts 630,000 tests on more than 7,000 products each year in order to ensure that everything we sell is safe.

As an official partner of Pride Toronto 2019, the LCBO created #ToastToPride, a cam- paign to promote diversity and inclusion and to fundraise almost $1 million to support equitable and compassionate healthcare for marginalized communities.

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SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK

INSIDE SCOOP

TRENDSPOTTING Thinking outside the blue box Just because it doesn’t go in the recycling bin doesn’t mean it can’t be recycled. TerraCycle Canada offers recycling of everything from cereal bags, to makeup containers, even cigarette butts. Some brand-specific programs are free, while other more comprehensive recycling boxes require a fee. Visit terracycle.com and get started!

The urge to splurge THE ENDORSEMENT

Alida Solomon, chef-owner of Tutti Matti (tuttimatti.com) in Toronto, uses 90 percent organic produce at her acclaimed Tuscan restaurant. Here, she dishes on why certain fruits and vegetables are worth the organic premium:

Citrus “We buy organic citrus from California all year round. We use the skins, and there is not as much wax on organic. Plus the fruit itself is way tastier.”

Lettuces “Organic lettuce is not overwatered, and the more the plant suffers, the better it will get. You won’t get the same quantity; you get a better quality. Those hydroponic lettuces don’t taste like anything.”

What can I do with zested oranges? When you’re left with denuded oranges after a few rounds of Negronis, the simplest way to enjoy them is with a glass of fresh squeezed o.j. the next morning. Or use them up in our Moroccan-style Orange Salad with dates, almonds and mint (recipe at lcbo.com/fdspring20).

Root Vegetables “They’re just sweeter, and they tend to be a lot smaller. You know how there are those giant parsnips and celery roots? You don’t get that with organic.”

PORTRAIT BY RACHEL SIMPSON; TERRACYCLE SHOT COURTESY OF TERRACYCLE; CITRUS BY ISTOCK.COM/STUDIOCASPER; LETTUCE BY ISTOCK.COM/CHVIROJ; ROOT VEGETABLES BY ISTOCK.COM/BDMCINTOSH

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SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK

IT STARTS

A P E RO L + P ROS E CCO + SODA

APEROLCANADA APEROLCANADA

Please Enjoy Responsibly.

INSIDE SCOOP

Bulking up SMART SHOPPING

Inspired by Bea Johnson’s book Zero Waste Home , Valerie Leloup plunged headfirst into the zero-waste lifestyle. The challenges were immediately apparent. “Grocery shopping was really difficult,” she says. “I was going to five or six places. Bringing my own con- tainers, I always had to explain and negotiate. It was very cumbersome.” She saw an opportunity to open a zero-waste grocery store in Ottawa, and partnered with Sia Veeramani, a fellow zero-waster who was independently working on a similar business plan. The duo opened Nu (nugrocery.com) in 2017, where everything from nuts to vinegar—even toothpaste— is sold by bulk. Customers bring their own containers or borrow them from the store and weigh them at a tare station before filling up. The store also makes a concerted effort to reduce waste on the supply side. “We do packaging exchanges with every supplier in a radius of 30 kilometres,” says Leloup. “Honey, maple syrup, cleaning supplies come in a pail, and we return the empty pail.” Nu has been such a big hit that Leloup and Veeramani opened a second location in the Old Ottawa East neigh- bourhood late last year. As for people interested in the zero-waste lifestyle, Leloup recommends starting slowly. “My Number One tip is to go step-by-step. You don’t have to do it all at once. Use what you have first then switch.”

Everything but the scales HEAD TO TAIL Kristin Donovan, co-owner of Hooked (hookedinc.ca)—a mini chain of sustainable fishmongers in Toronto and Halifax—shares her tips on minimizing seafood waste at home. The love child of bulk stores and natural food shops, zero-waste grocery stores are popping up across the province. Bring your own containers, eliminate packaging and keep the planet happy.

Other Zero-Waste Stores Zero Waste Bulk (zerowastebulk.com), Waterloo Unboxed Market (unboxedmarket.com), Toronto Refillery District (refillerydistrict.ca), Orillia

What are some of the ways you use up fish and seafood scraps at your shops? There are the obvious ones like making stocks and soups. We also use scraps for burgers, fish cakes and pâtés, or just marinate them and use them in a stir-fry or salad for a staff meal.

What are some ways that people canmake themost of their seafood at home? Freeze shrimp shells and save them for stock or add them to existing fish stock for more flavour. Fry up fish skins separately and break up over a salad or reserve for pets.

You often see salmon heads sold for next to nothing at fish counters. What can people dowith them? Save for stock, or roast separately—fish heads contain a tonne of delicious meat in the collar, cheeks, every nook and cranny. So great if you’re a picker like me.

Any other tips on minimizing seafood waste at home? It’s best to buy smaller quantities more often rather than buying for the week. Store live shellfish (mussels, clams, etc.) in a bowl covered with a damp cloth. Store fish at the back of the fridge where it is coldest.

NU IMAGES BY ERIC STOLPMAN; FISH © SIGMA1850/ADOBE STOCK

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SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK

INSIDE SCOOP

Liquid assets The LCBO’s durable, leakproof, reusable bag collection features bag ($1.95) for beer cans and gift packs, plus two- and six-pocket bags ($1.50 and $1.95) for wine and spirits. Take them grocery shop- ping too! Handy for glass bottles and jars. Available at most LCBO stores and lcbo.com. strong handles and includes a shopping

THE SECOND R

4 reusable shopping solutions

Sustainable shopping goes beyond the groceries you buy. Ditch single-use plastic in exchange for your own reusable bags and containers; you can make a world of difference.

By Brenda Morrison

8 IN 1 Starter kit In the produce aisle, the bulk food section and the check-out lane, make the switch from plastic bags to reusable ones with this eight-piece Ever Eco Organic Cotton Zero Waste Shopping Set ($49.95), featuring mesh bags for fruits and veggies, muslin storage bags for dry goods and long-handle tote bags. Available at Indigo and indigo.ca.

Farm-to-fridge For picking up a pint of berries from the farmer’s market or even a roadside stand, this reusable 3-piece Hutzler Berry Box ($19.99) features a colander for rinsing that fits inside the serving box. Plus it comes with a lid designed for keeping fruit fresher longer. Available at Kitchen Stuff Plus and kitchenstuffplus.com. K

Homeward bound Like high-quality luggage, Reisenthel’s Shopping Collection is worth investing in. Featuring its iconic carrybag, carrycruiser and allrounder rucksack—these pieces are designed for travel, heavy loads and elimi- nating any need for plastic bags. Each piece is sold separately, from $85 at Menu, Toronto (416 • 222 • 2474).

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SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK

INSIDE SCOOP

GOLDEN ANNIVERSARY April 22, 2020 50 th Anniversary of Earth Day

To learn about a new initiative to reduce our food system’s impact on climate change, visit foodprints.earthday.org.

Municipal recycling programs are being overwhelmed with stuff that doesn’t belong in their bins—by some estimates, it’s one-third. Check with your city first, but here are some items to keep out of recycling: Recycling 101 THE BASICS • Food and organic waste—i.e. rinse your containers! • Black plastic • Disposable coffee cups • Single-serve coffee and tea pods • Compostable plastic bags • Aluminum foil wrap • Waxed cardboard • Packing peanuts • Bubble wrap • Drinking glasses • Window glass • Light bulbs • Coat hangers

Lemon juice has seemingly endless applications in the kitchen, both savoury and sweet. It sharpens vinaigrettes and tahini sauce. It brightens creamy pastas and buttery pan sauces for seafood. And for dessert, use it in our rich and gooey Lemon Squares (recipe at lcbo.com/fdspring20). What can I do with zested lemons?

CONSCIENTIOUS BREWS

Ace in the hole Whether it’s cleaning up the local James River or funding a water well project in Nine Mile, Jamaica, Virginia brewer Lickinghole Creek supports clean water initiatives around the world. To enjoy beer with a conscience, try citrusy Lickinghole Creek Nine Mile IPA (LCBO 634139, 473 mL, $3.90) or chocolatey Lickinghole Creek Heir Apparent Mexican Spiced Imperial Stout (LCBO 617472, 473 mL, $4.40).

Shop online for products.

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SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK

INSIDE SCOOP

BURNING QUESTION

More-ganic bottles SUSTAINABLE SPIRITS

What do they mean? Want to become a more eco-conscious shopper? Here are three symbols to look for.

ECOLOGO Found on everything from fur- niture to cosmetics, this symbol means the product meets strict environmental standards for its entire life cycle, from manufac- turing to disposal. FOREST STEWARDSHIP COUNCIL Whether you’re buying toilet pa- per or a book, the FSC symbol is an assurance that a paper prod- uct (including this magazine!) was made from responsible sources that follow rigorous environmen- tal and social standards. OCEANWISE This symbol means you are buy- ing seafood that was caught or farmed in a way that ensures the long-term health of that species and its ecosystem as a whole.

We’re talking about local, sustainable producers on page 36, but here are a few organic options on the spirit shelves from outside Ontario. Made in Minnesota from organic corn, smooth and silky Prairie Organic Vodka ( LCBO 638189, $39.95) is excellent in a Martini, and Leyenda Tlacuache Organic Mezcal ( LCBO 275420, $79.30) will give a smoky boost to agave-based cocktails.

Scrappy chef KITCHEN HACKS

coffee grinder and decided to save it up to make cof- fee-flavoured horchata for a tequila-based cocktail.    As for reducing food waste at home, Hynam-Smith says meal planning helps him use ingredients more efficiently. He also stresses the importance of including kids in the kitchen, which builds respect for food from a young age.    “Do a big cook-up on the weekend with the whole fam- ily and then you’re set for the week. Cooking shouldn’t be stressful; it should be fun.”

to flavour dressings. Squash trimmings are dehydrated, ground and worked into pasta dough. He even figured out a delicious way to use up brine from fermenting Brussels sprouts; it’s reduced by half, sweetened with caramel then finished with duck fat.    “What do we usually serve with Brussels sprouts?” he asks. “Bacon. And this sauce has the same salty, sweet, rich profile.”    The zero-waste mantra extends to the bar, where gen- eral manager Michael Kapusty works on equally clever ideas. He uses rice to clean out the

When he and his wife, Tamara Jensen, opened Dispatch in St. Catharines last year (dispatchrestaurant.com), min- imizing waste at the restau- rant became an obsession.    “I can’t relax knowing what our footprint is,” says Hynam-Smith. “It means being more thoughtful, doing things differently, and not being afraid to experiment.”    The Australian-born chef began to “question everything” and found innovative ideas to use every scrap of food. Brown papery onion skins are burnt, powderized and used

While most chefs avoid food waste as a cost-saving measure, for Adam Hynam-Smith the reasons run much deeper.

PORTRAIT BY BRILYNN FERGUSON

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SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK

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ADVERTISING FEATURE

Did you know some LCBO stores are housed in restored heritage buildings with fascinating pedigrees? Here are four whose history, architecture and broad product selection make them a worthy destination for a spring shopping trip. NEW AGAIN Everything old is

10 Scrivener Sq. (Yonge & Summerhill) Canada’s largest liquor store, LCBO’s Summerhill location was once Toronto’s main railway station. Built in 1916 from limestone quarried in Manitoba, the grand station featured a terminal with 38-foot ceilings, marble interior walls, and a 140-foot clock tower modelled on the bell tower in Venice’s Piazza San Marco. When Union Station opened in 1930, the North Toronto Railway Station was repurposed as a retail space (LCBO moved in in 1940). In 2002, the building was restored and its unique architectural features were incorporated into the store’s design. The impressive space – with soaring ceilings and original bronze light fixtures – features 5,000 brands spread over 20,000 square feet, an extensive Vintages section, a fill-your-own craft-beer growler station, an event room, and a tasting bar where you can try before you buy.

1 VINTAGES

87 Front St. E. (Front & Jarvis) On the corner of Market Street, this LCBO is housed in a red-brick building originally erected for grain traders Edward Leadley & Co. in 1858. In its heyday, because of its proximity to the harbour, the neighbourhood served as Toronto’s commercial hub; Market Street was home to a hotel and several office buildings, including a six-storey one considered a high-rise when it was built at the turn of the 20th century. Today, key architectural features of the restored Leadley building – such as exposed brick walls and mullioned windows – are integrated into the modern interior, which extends south into a neighbouring building. This 7,000-square-foot LCBO location carries over 3,200 brands and is just steps from St. Lawrence Market and a short walk from Union Station.

111 St. Clair Ave. W. (St. Clair & Avenue) Opened in 2015, this LCBO location occupies the ground floor of the former Imperial Oil headquarters, a landmark 1957 building whose design was originally a contender for Toronto’s new city hall. Back in the day, the top floor of the 21-storey structure was the highest point in Toronto and, on clear days, offered views of the spray from Niagara Falls across Lake Ontario. Built using welded-steel framing (vs. riveted, which would have subjected local residents to increased construction noise), Imperial Plaza, as it’s now known, was the largest all-welded steel-frame building in the world. Still boasting the lobby’s original marble walls and acclaimed artist R. York Wilson’s Story of Oil mural, this bright, 3,800-square-foot LCBO features over 1,000 brands, a dedicated Vintages section, a tasting bar and 50 underground parking spots.

49 Spadina Ave. (Spadina & Front) Our newest flagship store, this LCBO opened last July in a former warehouse built in 1913 for the Steele Briggs Seed Company. The handsome five-storey red-brick structure, also known as the Clarence Square Building, sat in an area dominated by railroads and had its own siding for efficient shipping; the train tracks are still visible on the building’s south side. Today, this almost-11,000- square-foot store carries almost 2,000 brands and features a large Vintages section, a tasting bar, and a same-day pickup counter for online orders. The original wooden support beams were integrated into the design, adding a heritage note to the contemporary interior.

ADVERTISING FEATURE

OPEN A BOTTLE OF SOMETHING SPECIAL

Versatile, delicious and ready for any occasion, these Ontario wines are true people-pleasers

Spring is the season of renewal. And as the days grow brighter and warmer, it’s only natural to reinvigorate your palate too. For fresh flavours that speak to the season’s crisp, refreshing character, make Open Wines your go-to for spring entertaining. Open’s portfolio of crowd-pleasing sippers, from zesty whites to plummy reds, beautifully harmonize with seasonal classics, from hearty lamb to succulent asparagus. You know you’re getting the best of Ontario, with each of these selections bearing the VQA stamp of approval.

Happy spring!

Open Pinot Grigio VQA LCBO 628404 | 750 mL | $12.95 Light & Crisp (D – 10 g/L) With aromas and flavours of lemon, pear and melon, this crisp classic is lovely with seafood, roasted chicken or appetizers.

Open Sauvignon Blanc VQA LCBO 178681 | 750 mL | $12.95 Aromatic & Flavourful (D – 9 g/L) Wonderfully intense notes of melon, fresh-cut grass and gooseberry make this aromatic white a standout. Try it as a sipper or with grilled asparagus.

Open Smooth Red VQA LCBO 357145 | 750 mL | $13.45 Full-bodied & Smooth (M – 25 g/L) This consistently delicious blend is full of crushed red berry, plum and spice flavours, with just a touch of sweetness. Excellent with juicy burgers.

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Featured products are available at select LCBO stores. Prices subject to change without notice. *

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GREENER CHOICES

Steam Whistle Brewing TORONTO, ON | STEAMWHISTLE.CA

Know what you’re drinking; SteamWhistle lists all its ingredients on each can and bottle.

Since opening more than 10 years ago, Steam Whistle Brewery in Toronto has won a bevy of accolades for its environmental initiatives. Powering its delivery trucks with renewable fuel, harness- ing the cold depths of Lake Ontario to cool off buildings with Enwave’s Deep Lake Water Cooling system, and reducing waste from events by sending leftover edibles to Toronto’s largest street mission, the brewery continues to find ways to reduce its footprint while treating the environment with care.    Steam Whistle has also made it easier for employees to get to work by bike, providing showers, towels and covered bike racks on-site. Plus it has built bike-repair stations in more than 30 communities across the country.

Sustainable sips

WET YOUR WHISTLE

Steam Whistle’s two clean, crisp and refreshing beers are brewed to the standards of the Bavarian Purity Act of 1516. Revisit the classic pilsner, housed in green bottles that can be reused almost three times more than the standard brown beer bottle. Or try Steam Whistle Pale Ale, an amber-hued brew with hints of earthy and citrusy hop flavours.

Do you shop at a local farmers’ market, select organic produce and dairy—and also wonder what goes into your favourite beer, wine or spirit? These Ontario producers not only make tasty beverages, they pride themselves on earth-friendly practices, too. Here’s how to do good and taste goodness at the same time.

SteamWhistle PremiumPilsner LCBO 547646, 6 pk, $14.50 SteamWhistle Pale Ale LCBO 12041, 473 mL, $3.25

By Tara Luxmore, Charlene Rooke and Chris Johns photography by darren kemper

STEAM WHISTLE IMAGE COURTESY OF STEAM WHISTLE CRAFT BREWING COMPANY

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FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2020

SUSTAINABLE SIPS

Ontario spirit makers are installing “smart” irrigation systems and solar panels, planting trees and reusing hot water—easing the load on resources as they go. Distilling can be a resource-intensive process, which Ontario spirit makers are working to counter. For instance, many—including Still Waters in Concord (makers of Stalk & Barrel whiskies)—try to reuse as much of the hot water from the distilling process as possible.    Because spirits are distilled from agri- cultural products—potatoes and grains, for instance—sustainability starts on the farm. Viritus Organic Vodka is Certified Organic and is made using 100-percent organic Canadian corn.    Beattie’s Vodka is made on an Alliston potato farm that uses water from an on‑site well, has a “smart” irrigation system for crop watering, and uses eco-friendly features such as solar panels and thermal heating.    Kinsip House of Fine Spirits, which is nestled in Prince Edward County and limits chemical spraying on the grains it grows there, recycles its spent-grain mashes as feed at a local dairy farm. And all of its tasting‑room bottles are reused to hold products by Harrowsmith’s Farmacy Bath & Beauty.    That’s not all: Top Shelf Distillers, makers of Reunion Moonshines, expects to plant up to 300,000 trees in Ontario this year through its #moretrees initiative (look for the logo displayed on bottles at the LCBO). Distilling wisdom

MOO-RE VODKA!

An inedible waste product from Ontario dairy farms, the unused sugars called milk permeate, are turned into deliciously smooth, gluten-free vodka using a process that requires half the energy of traditional distilling. Using lighter, Ontario-made glass reduces the footprint of its unique bottle, too. Vodkow LCBO 11573, $36.00

Shop online for products.

King’s Lock Craft Distillery

The King’s Lock energy tab is equal to or below many average household bills.

JOHNSTOWN, ON | KLCRAFTDISTILLERY.CA

Spent organic corn and rye grains from this distillery (all sourced from within 75 kilometres) go back to local farms to feed dairy cattle or fertilize land. Renewable electricity and natural gas come from Bullfrog Power, a Canadian company specializing in renew- able and low-impact energy solutions. The distillery has carbon- footprint-reducing features like LED lighting and in-floor heating, and completes processes such as bottling and labelling by hand instead of by machine, to minimize energy use.

KING’S LOCK IMAGE BY DIVERSE DESIGNS

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SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK

Bring home your favourite coffee from the grocery store and make it a Saturday – or Sunday – to savour.

Visit myStarbucksweekend.com to discover new ways to enjoy coffee.

©2020 Starbucks® and the Starbucks logo are registered trademarks of Starbucks Corporation used under license by Nestlé. All rights reserved.

SUSTAINABLE SIPS

MILLING ABOUT Last year, Mill Street committed to reducing its energy consumption and water usage by 10 per- cent, a goal they exceeded in both categories. Raise a glass of Canada’s most popular (and oldest) organic Lager or try the fuller-flavoured Tankhouse Organic Ale. The female-led team at Brickworks Ciderhouse sends apple pomace to local farms for feed and recently planted a pollinator garden; a sip of its Mint & Basil Cider transports you to a herb garden in full bloom. Mill Street Original Organic Lager LCBO 247627, 473 mL, $3.30 Brickworks CiderhouseMint & Basil

Green beer

Planting thousands of trees, reducing waste and returning clean water to their local environments, these breweries walk the talk. Water might be beer’s least-talked-about ingredient, but breweries use a lot of it. Reducing waste and returning clean water to the local environment are top of mind for breweries like Sawdust City Brewing Co. in Gravenhurst and Bench Brewing Co. in Beamsville, which have both installed BRU Clean systems from Toronto-based Econse Water Purification Systems Inc.    The employee-owned and -operated Beau’s All-Natural Brewing in Vankleek Hill was the first Ontario beer maker to earn Certified B Corporation certification in 2013. Becoming a B Corp isn’t easy: B Lab, a non-profit that operates globally, verifies that businesses meet stringent require- ments demonstrating their positive social and environmental impacts. High Park Brewery in Toronto and Ernest Cider Co. in Aurora have now joined the B Corp ranks.    Planting trees is one way Kenora’s Lake of the Woods Brewery gives back to its community. Partnering with the First-Nations-owned Miisun Integrated Resource Management Company, it has planted 10,000 trees in three years.    Another Northern Ontario brewery, Sleeping Giant Brewing Co. in Thunder Bay, works with EcoSuperior Environ- mental Programs to encourage land stewardship on Lake Superior’s shores by using sustainable packaging and holding trash-cleanup events.

LCBO 900324, 473 mL, $4.25 Mill Street Tankhouse Ale LCBO 399162, 473 mL, $3.30

  Cowbell Brewing Co.

BLYTH, ON | COWBELLBREWING.COM

On average, it takes 10 glasses of water to make a single pint of beer.

When Grant Sparling, Cowbell’s chief development officer, is asked why sustainable practices are so deeply ingrained in the ethos and actions of the brewery, it comes down to one word: family. For generations, the Sparlings have built family-focused busi- nesses with a commitment to giving back to their largely agricultural community in western Ontario. With achievements like constructing North America’s first carbon-neutral brewery, and its no-impact on- site waste-water treatment, Cowbell continues to lead the way with new initiatives. Up next: a zero-waste kitchen program.

COWBELL IMAGE BY AUSTIN CHAFFE

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SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK

Winemakers in Ontario tackle sustain­ ability with solar power, geothermal heating and cooling, and more—plus in 2017 they established an accredited certified-organic program. Ontario’s wineries are as creative as they are progressive when it comes to sustainability. In 2001, Frogpond Farm became the first certified organic winery in the province and, like other organic producers (including Karlo Estate, Sandbanks, Hidden Bench, Calamus, Reif, Flat Rock and Cave Spring), its wines are also vegan.    In 2008, Southbrook Vineyards gained organic certification and became Canada’s first biodynamic-certified vineyard. Its visitor centre uses half the energy of most comparably sized buildings and is LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) Gold certified. Hinterbrook’s winery is 100-percent solar-powered, while the temperature of the winery and barrel cellar are maintained with geothermal heating and cooling.    Created in 2007, the Sustainable Winemaking Ontario program was expanded to become an accredited, certifiable program in 2017. Look for its logo (a green leaf with the words Sustainable Winemaking Ontario Certified) on bottles from the 13Ontario wineries that are fully certified. Local Harvest

BIG ECO

An icon of sustainable winemaking in Ontario, Malivoire’s lush, vibrant Chardon- nay is made using sustainable practices both in the vineyard and the winery, as well as by the principles of the Oregon-based Low Impact Viticulture and Enology

program (known as LIVE). Malivoire Chardonnay VQA VINTAGES 573147, $19.95

Stratus Vineyards

Ontariocraft wineries.calists current Certified Sustainable Winemaking Ontario brands.

NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE, ON | STRATUSWINES.COM

The world’s first LEED-certified winery, Stratus Vineyards made a commitment to a sustainable vision on day one. All aspects of its operation—from the unique, pumpless wine-flow system (which reduces electricity consumption) to the geothermal wells that enable the cellar to maintain an ideal tem- perature—strive for minimal environmental impact.

STRATUS IMAGE BY MATTHEW PLEXMAN

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FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2020

Please Enjoy Responsibly. ©2020 Campari Canada.

TRENDS

Le Classique

Recipe on page 98

An eco-friendly twist on the French 75 Champagne cocktail, Le Classique owes its brilliant punchy tang to Lemon Oleo-Saccharum— a syrup used by bartenders to unlock all the hidden flavour in old citrus peels. This cocktail recipe comes to us from Supernova Ballroom (supernovaballroom.com), the disco-themed, sustain- able cocktail bar opened by international bar stars Kelsey Ramage and Iain Griffiths in Toronto last fall. When it comes to putting waste to good use, these pros were way ahead of the curve. Before set- tling down to open Supernova, they spent a couple of years on the road with their global zero-waste cocktail pop-up tour that inspired bartenders in 18 countries to stop tossing all that flavour in the bin.

Waste not, want not Bring to your drinks the same no-waste awareness we apply to food, using up brines, overripe fruit and herbs in shrubs and syrups that’ll add great flavour to your cocktails.

Courvoisier VS Cognac LCBO 1925, $60.95 Taittinger Brut Réserve Champagne LCBO 365312, $60.95 TRY WITH…

By Christine Sismondo | photography by darren kemper

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FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2020

WASTE NOT, WANT NOT

YOU CAN’T BRING FLAT CHAMPAGNE BACK FROMTHE DEAD, BUT YOU CAN GIVE IT SECOND LIFE AS A COCKTAIL SYRUP.

The method for making champagne syrup works with any leftover wine, including sherry and vermouth!

POMPELMO SPRITZ

This low-octane, cheeky aper- itivo gets its dash of gentle sweetness from Champagne syrup—a trick for reusing flat fizz that we learned from Massimo Zitti, owner of Mother (motherdrinks.co), a super-green cocktail bar on Toronto’s Queen West strip. 1 oz Cynar 1 ⁄ oz fresh ruby red grapefruit juice ⁄ oz fresh lime juice ⁄ oz Champagne Syrup (recipe on page 98) Ice cubes 1 Pour Cynar, grapefruit juice, lime juice and Champagne Syrup into a cocktail shaker. Add 5 ice cubes and shake well for 30 seconds. 2 Strain cocktail into Collins glass filled with ice cubes. Add soda water. Garnish with thin slices of grapefruit. Serve immediately. 3 oz soda water Grapefruit slices

Makes 1 drink

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SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK

Discov Lambrusco

The fizzy red wine to enjoy with friends & family!

ITALIAN CHARCUTERIE

PECORINO & PARMIGIANO

PIZZA

ASIAN CUISINE

TERRINES

Serve it slightly chilled , or on ice !

CAMPAGNAFINANZIATAAISENSI DELREG.UEN.1308/2013

CAMPAIGNFINANCEDACCORDING TOEUREG.NO.1308/2013

WASTE NOT, WANT NOT

Wasted herbs are a problem for home bartenders, since they’re always sold in such large quantities. Turning them into a tasty syrup is the perfect solution.

THERE’S STILL PLENTY OF FLAVOUR HIDING INWILTEDMINT LEAVES AND STEMS.

Mojaxaca

Named after the Mojito and Oaxaca, where mezcal comes from, this crossover drink gets a flavour boost from a herb syrup shared by Becky Ip and Ryan Ringer, owners of Grey Tiger (greytiger.ca), a Toronto cocktail bar that’s been upcycling its tired herb leaves and stems into teas and syrups since it opened four years ago. 2 oz mezcal ⁄ oz Herb Stem Syrup 3 oz spicy nonalcoholic ginger beer (Grace and Fever-Tree are good brands available in many grocery stores) 1 sprig mint for garnish 1 Pour mezcal, Herb Stem Syrup, lime juice and mint leaves into cocktail shaker, along with 6 ice cubes. Shake for 45 seconds, then strain into ice-filled tall glass. 2 Top with ginger beer and garnish with a sprig of mint. Serve with a metal or bamboo straw. (recipe on page 98) 1 oz fresh lime juice 6 mint leaves 6 ice cubes

Makes 1 drink

TRY WITH…

Mezcal Creyente LCBO 496141, $59.95

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SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK

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FARM TO TABLE

Taking care of the earth is an important job for all of us—for those of us who eat and, especially, for those who grow our food. Farmers live off the land, relying on a healthy earth for their livelihood, so they know they need to protect it. A farmer needs to have a sustainable business and good- quality product that doesn’t deplete our natural resources.    When we plan our meals and make our shopping lists, we need to consider sustainability, too, by choosing foods grown in a responsible way. Buying local, knowing where your food comes from and how it was grown, and appreciating the food grown for us by reducing food waste are all ways we can do our part for sustainability.    We’re fortunate that our Ontario farmers—whether they produce meat, poultry, seed and grain crop, dairy, vegetables or fruit—are working hard to bring us nutritious food and making sure they’re taking care of Mother Nature in the process. Here we’re focusing on some Ontario meat farms that are innovating through research, education and ingenuity how they produce food and creating novel ways to get it to us. It’s fascinating to learn what our Ontario farmers are doing to get us food we can enjoy from field, orchard and greenhouse to plate, as they say.

Forces of nature

SHOP FROM HOME

Shining a spotlight on just a few of the Ontario farmers making a concerted effort towards sustainability—bringing us nutritious food and, in the process, making sure they’re taking care of Mother Nature.

Shop with sustainability in mind; take inven- tory of your freezer and fridge, plan meals, order or buy only what you know you’ll use. Innovation in online sales means you can have food delivered directly from Ontario farms. Look for this icon on the following pages for a few companies making it easy to shop sustainably from home.

By Jennifer M ac Kenzie

PHOTO BY CARRIE WOOLLEY

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FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2020