LCBO Food & Drink Spring 2022

TAHINI STICKY BUN I’m not the most enthusiastic baker, but after 20 years or so of food styling, I’ve had to be- come a solid one. Don’t get me wrong—I love sweets; I just hate getting flour on my toes and the ensuing bowl-washing after a baking ses- sion. I’m forever on the lookout for shortcuts, because I don’t need to pretend I’m a pastry chef to satisfy my own sweet tooth. So, here’s a sticky bun that does away with half the work, because of, well, store-bought pizza dough! 1/4 cup (60 mL, 1/2 stick) unsalted butter, softened 1 tbsp (15 mL) well-stirred tahini 2 tbsp (30 mL) ground cinnamon 2 tsp (10 mL) ground cardamom 1 tsp (5 mL) salt, divided 1 cup (250 mL) packed brown sugar, divided All-purpose flour as needed 1 lb (455 g) store-bought pizza dough 1/4 cup (60 mL) water 1 tbsp (15 mL) toasted sesame seeds 1 In a small bowl, stir together butter, tahini, cinnamon, cardamom, 1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt and 1/4 cup (60 mL) brown sugar. Set aside. 2 Lightly flour work surface. Roll out pizza dough into a roughly 7 x 14-inch (18 x 35-cm) rectangle. Using an off-set spatula, spread with butter mixture and fold over to create a 7 x 7-inch (18 x 18-cm) square. (It’s ok if it’s a little wonky and not quite the exact measurements). Gently roll out into (again, roughly) a 10 x 10‑inch (25 x 25-cm) square. Carefully transfer to a baking sheet and chill for 45 minutes. (This will make the dough easier to handle for the next step.) 3 Transfer filled dough back to lightly floured work surface and cut three times to create one long strand. Do this by first creating a cut through the centre of your square, leaving 1 inch (2.5 cm) uncut on one of the ends. Now, working from the same side of the uncut end, divide both quantities of dough on either side of the first cut in half again the same way, again leaving 1 inch (2.5 cm) at the end (the opposite end from the first uncut end). 4 Separate the dough strand into one long length and begin twisting and tightly coiling onto the centre of a parchment-lined baking sheet. Tuck end under and pinch to secure. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature for 1 hour or until doubled in size. 5 Meanwhile, preheat oven to 375°F (191°C) and arrange rack in upper third of oven.

6 Bake for 35 to 40 minutes or until lightly golden. Remove and let cool on baking sheet for 15 minutes. Carefully transfer to a platter. 7 Combine remaining 3/4 cup (175 mL) sugar, remaining 1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt and water in a small saucepan. Set over medium heat, stir to dissolve sugar; bring to a boil. Liberally brush over pastry, sprinkle with sesame seeds, and serve while still warm. Cut into 6 to 8 pieces in whatever proportions you like. Serves 6 to 8 BLOODY MARY SALAD We’re a long way from tomato season, but small local hothouse tomatoes can be pretty darn good. Ripe cocktail tomatoes and cherry tomatoes in a variety of colours are heaps more flavourful than the larger ones and have none of their sometimes mealy texture. Plan ahead to allow the dressed tomatoes to rest for a bit—time draws some of the juices from the tomatoes, which becomes part of the dressing. Tomatoes dressed in tomato juice!

Celery Caesar-Ish Salad The dressing here takes inspiration from the classic, but is broken (and juicy!) instead of thick and creamy. Use the greener outer stalks of celery for this and save the more tender in- ner bits for our Bloody Mary Salad (recipe this page). A note about raw egg yolk: it’s totally fine if you leave it out on account of the very rare case of salmonella attributed to it, but if you trust your yolks (do you fry your eggs sunny side up?), then go for it. 5 oil-packed anchovy fillets, finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped or grated Salt and coarsely ground black pepper 1/2 cup (125 mL) semi-pearled farro 4 very thin slices sourdough 1/4 cup (60 mL) extra virgin olive oil 6 stalks celery 1/2 cup (125 mL) coarsely grated Parmesan 1 egg yolk 1 For the dressing, whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, anchovies and garlic. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside. 2 Cook the farro in plenty of boiling, salted water for 20 to 22 minutes or until tender but still a little toothsome. Drain and let cool in a colander. 3 Meanwhile, brush the sourdough with the olive oil and arrange on a sheet pan. Bake in a 375°F (191°C) oven for 12 to 14 minutes, turning halfway through, until golden and crisp. Let cool. 4 Cut each celery stalk in half lengthwise, then thinly slice on the bias. Add to a salad bowl or platter along with the cooled farro. Add the dressing, toss and let stand for 10 minutes to soften the celery a bit. 5 When ready, crumble the sourdough overtop, aiming for a mix of larger bite-size pieces and smaller crumbs. Add the Parmesan, toss, and check seasoning, adding more salt if necessary. Top with the egg yolk. Break the yolk and toss again just before serving. Serves 4 to 6 DRESSING 1/3 cup (80 mL) extra virgin olive oil 3 tbsp (45 mL) lemon juice

1 clove garlic, peeled and halved 1 lb (455 g) cocktail tomatoes 2 shallots, thinly sliced 1/4 cup (60 mL) extra virgin olive oil 2 tbsp (30 mL) lemon juice, plus extra as necessary 1 1/2 tsp (7 mL) red wine vinegar Salt and freshly ground black pepper 8 oz (225 g) cherry tomatoes, halved 4 stalks celery, thinly sliced Handful celery leaves, torn if large 1 ripe avocado 2 tbsp (30 mL) Worcestershire sauce Tabasco sauce to taste

1 Rub the cut surfaces of the garlic halves in- side a large salad bowl. Discard the remnants. 2 Halve the cocktail tomatoes and, one by one, squeeze their seeds into the bowl. Drop the squished tomato halves into the bowl afterwards. Add the shallots, followed by the olive oil, lemon juice and vinegar. Season generously with salt and pepper, toss and let stand 30 minutes. 3 Add cherry tomatoes, celery and celery leaves to bowl. Pit and peel the avocado. Slice widthwise and sprinkle with a little lemon juice to keep slices green. Put those in the salad bowl, too, followed by the Worcestershire sauce and a dash of Tabasco. Gently toss with your hands to avoid crushing the avocado, taste and adjust Tabasco and salt to your liking. Serves 4 to 6

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SPRING 2022 FOOD & DRINK