LCBO Food & Drink Summer 2016

SUMMER 2016

WHAT YOU DO WITH THE ATTENTION IS YOUR BUSINESS.

T H E 2 0 1 6 A C U R A T L X S H - AWD ®

With aggressive yet sophisticated styling, the 2016 TLX demands attention on the road. Loaded with technology and performance options, including torque-vectoring Super Handling All-Wheel Drive™ (SH-AWD ® ); 9-speed automatic transmission; available award-winning AcuraWatch™ advanced safety and driver assistive technologies, and more, the TLX is the thrilling step up you’ve been waiting for.

S TA R T I N G F R O M $ 4 0 , 4 9 0 *

acura.ca/TLX

*Prices not applicable in Quebec. MSRP is $40,490 on a new 2016 Acura TLX SH-AWD ® (UB3F3GJ). Model shown is a new 2016 Acura TLX SH-AWD ® (UB3F3GJ) with optional accessories (MSRP: $42,990). Prices exclude $2,045 freight and PDI, fees, license, insurance, registration, and taxes. Some terms/conditions apply. Model shown for illustration purposes only. Offer is subject to change or cancellation without notice. Dealer may sell for less. Dealer order/trade may be necessary. While quantities last. Visit acura.ca or your Acura dealer for details. © 2016 Acura, a division of Honda Canada Inc.

TLX shown with accessory rims

ONTARIO SUPERSTARS Summer’s here, and it’s time to head outdoors and fire up the grill! Whether you’re serving up saucy ribs or fresh summer salads, our carefully curated selection of VQA wines will always provide a perfect pairing.

SANDBANKS BACO NOIR RESERVE VQA 225920 750 mL $19.95 FULL BODIED & SMOOTH D 15 g/L

G. MARQUIS THE RED LINE PINOT GRIGIO VQA 276501 750 mL $11.95 LIGHT & CRISP D 6 g/L

MALIVOIRE LADYBUG ROSÉ VQA 559088 750 mL $15.95 MEDIUM BODIED & DRY D 12 g/L Vintages Essentials Collection

GARLICKY, STICKY, CRUNCHY BABY BACK RIBS

Scan the code for this recipe or visit lcbo.recipes/6403

ARUGULA SALAD WITH GRAPEFRUIT Scan the code for this recipe or visit lcbo.recipes/6404

Featured products available at select LCBO stores. Prices subject to change without notice. VintagesEssentialsCollection isalwaysavailable atmanyLCBO locations.Visitvintages.com/essentials

23978

PAVLOV-ELY.

This sublime Berry Pavlova with Lemon Curd Cream was made for summer. Simply fill your meringue with a mixture of mascarpone and whipped cream, add a layer of our intensely tangy PC ® Black Label Lemon Curd and top it all off with fresh berries. Suddenly, your guests will have room for dessert.

Berry Pavlova with Lemon Curd Cream

INGREDIENTS

4

large egg whites, at room temperature

1 cup (250 mL) granulated sugar 2 tsp (10 mL) cornstarch 1½ tsp (7 mL) PC ® Black Label

Madagascar Bourbon Pure Vanilla Extract

1½ tsp (7 mL) white vinegar ¾ cup (175 mL) 35% whipping cream ¾ cup (175 mL) mascarpone cheese, at room temperature 1 jar (250 mL)

PC ® Black Label Lemon Curd

3 cups (750 mL) mixed fresh berries

(raspberries, blueberries and/or blackberries)

Garnish (optional):

icing sugar mint leaves

instructions

Preheat oven to 250˚F (120˚C). Line baking sheet with parchment paper; draw a 9-inch (23 cm) circle on paper and turn paper over. Beat whites in bowl of stand mixer fitted with whisk attachment until foamy. Sprinkle in sugar 1 tbsp (15 mL) at a time, beating on medium-high speed for 7 to 8 minutes or until glossy peaks form. Mixture should feel smooth on fingertips. Scrape side and bottom of bowl with rubber spatula; fold in cornstarch, vanilla and vinegar. Scrape mixture onto circle on baking sheet, spreading evenly. Form a hollow centre in mixture using back of a spoon, making it about 6 inches (10 cm) in diameter and 1 inch (2.5 cm) lower than sides. Bake 75 minutes or until crisp on outside and eggshell colour. Turn oven off; leave oven door slightly ajar and let meringue cool to room temperature in oven, about 1 hour. Whip cream in bowl until soft peaks form. Stir mascarpone to loosen; fold into whipped cream. Whisk to incorporate. Spoon mixture into meringue nest. Top with lemon curd and berries. Garnish with a dusting of icing sugar and a few mint leaves, if desired.

Find all our summer recipes at pc.ca/blacklabel

All trademarks & logos are trademarks of Loblaws Inc. ©2016 Loblaws Inc. All rights reserved.

Everythingtastesbetterwhenit’shomegrown. LikeOntarioturkey.Tasty,leanandpacked withnutrients,it’sraisedaccordingtostrict regulationssoyouknow you’regeting thebestqualitypossible.

FormoreSuperrecipes goto makesitsuper.ca

Change the way you see salad.

Renée’s Gourmet Dressing

TABLE OF CONTENTS

74

FEATURES

96 COLOUR PALATE By Amy Rosen

74 CAMPING OUT By Christopher St. Onge

Summer’s produce comes in every colour of the rainbow; celebrate with this visually dazzling range of dishes.

Cooking over an open fire has never tasted so good—with minimal advance prep, this entire menu is designed for ease and deliciousness.

102 PUTTING ON THE CHILL By James Chatto

Which red varietals best suit cool summer sipping—plus favourite recipes from our archives to serve alongside. ON THE COVER Blueberry-Lavender White Chocolate Cheesecake, recipe on page 155. Photography by Rob Fiocca

82 OVERNIGHT SUCCESS By Christopher St. Onge Give your old standby marinades a rest, and savour five new recipes, each designed for a different protein. 88 PLUM DELICIOUS By Lucy Waverman & Eric Vellend

Just as enjoyable mixed into drinks and dishes as they are eaten fresh, plums dazzle in cocktails, savouries and sweets.

FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2016 7

TABLE OF CONTENTS

DRINK

SEASONAL CIDER SELECTIONS By Stephen Beaumont

43

With so many ciders arriving on LCBO shelves, we simplify the options by grouping similar products together; if you like one brand, you’ll know which others to try.

SPIRITS SOPHISTICATED BLENDS By Eric Vellend

57

New blender drinks offer mature palates an experience that’s light years from the overly sweet and fruity offerings we’ve all come to expect.

109

BEER SUMMER OF PALE ALE By Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic

119

DEPARTMENTS

India Pale Ale is ideal for summer; check out our primer on how to serve it, what to pair with it, and styles to help you find your favourite.

FOOD

SEASONAL SWEET ON LAVENDER By Julia Aitken

35

WINE READY FOR ROSÉ By James Chatto & Lucy Waverman

127

Lavender fields are a summery sight to behold—but beauty aside, this is one sumptuous herb in all manner of baked treats.

Rosés add colour to the summer table and we’ve echoed their hues in dishes designed to be served with sweet, dry and sparkling styles.

TWISTS SAVOURING GALETTES By Joanne Yolles

51

IN EVERY ISSUE

Galettes go savoury in main courses that are just right paired with salad for an easy lunch or light dinner.

EDITOR’S NOTES

12

BASICS GRILLED CHICKEN REFRESHER By Lucy Waverman

65

A SPLASH OF WHISKY Rye’s profound flavours stand up well in cooking, allowing its potent taste to shine through in a Whisky-Glazed Portobello Burger. WHAT’S NEW A selection of products from around the world available at the LCBO and Vintages. MUST-HAVES Things we love for entertaining and around the house.

17

Step aside, same old chicken recipes; make way for four new recipes along with winning tips for ensuring success on the grill.

19

109 ENTERTAINING

LATE NIGHT BITES By Signe Langford

24

Summer nights and long weekends… when appetites reawaken long after dinner is done, these spectacular small bites are just the thing.

TRENDSPOTTING On our radar this issue—Mexican paletas.

27

FLAVOURS MIX & MATCH SALADS By Eshun Mott

135

RECIPE INDEX

163

FIVE QUESTIONS WITH… Michael Parsons of Hungry Hollow Smokehouse and Grille in Georgetown, Ont.—where the aroma of succulent beef, pork and chicken cooked low and slow pervades the air.

164

Certain ingredients have an affinity for each other— and certain ones don’t! We’ve removed the guesswork, with dressings to top them off.

8  FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2016

THE WORK OF A FARMER

The care we take growing the grapes really begins the journey of the wine. Tom Gore Vineyards allows me to share my expertise as a farmer with wine enthusiasts, showing how the work in the field shapes the wine’s character in the glass. ” – Tom Gore, Farmer “

$ 17 00

Please enjoy our wines responsibly.

Feature price

Available starting June 25 th in the California VINTAGES section of LCBO stores, while quantities last.

Publication Director & SVP .........Nancy Cardinal Sales, Marketing & Insights

VP Marketing ..................................Kerri Dawson Editor .................................................Jody Dunn Art Director .....................................Karen Lim Senior Editor ...................................James Chatto Food Editor .......................................Lucy Waverman Contributing Editors ....................Charlene Rooke, Kat Tancock Publication Coordinator ............Leslie Virdo Senior Designer .............................Cathy Cicchini Graphic Designer .........................Pat Turbach Production Manager ...................Mark Greene Production Coordinator .............Judy Haverkort Publication Assistant .................Piper MacFadyen Production Assistant ...................Everton Smith Food Stylists ....................................Eshun Mott, Christopher St. Onge Prop Stylists ....................................Catherine MacFadyen, Andrea McCrindle, Lara McGraw Contributors ...................................Julia Aitken, Stephen Beaumont,

COMING NEXT ISSUE GET STUFFED! Fabulous new recipes for stuffed vegetables OUR OWN TERROIR Great wine and food—unmistakably Ontarian A DIFFERENT THANKSGIVING Celebrate without a turkey

Cynthia David, Anna Kohn, Signe Langford, Ann Lough, Brenda Morrison, Eshun Mott, Amy Rosen, Christopher St. Onge, Eric Vellend, Victoria Walsh, Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic, Joanne Yolles

Publisher ..........................................Wayne Leek

For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about LCBO products and policy please contact helloLCBO online at hellolcbo.com, or call toll-free 1•800•668•5226 or 416•365•5900. TTY Only: 416•864•6898 or 1•800•361•3291. For advertising in Food & Drink magazine, please contact Keystone Media, 416•224•1500 or e-mail foodanddrink@keystonemedia.ca. All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the LCBO’s advertising agreement. Food & Drink is published six times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Volume 23, Number 6. Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 percent post-consumer fibre. Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs.

AFTER DINNER The art of the digestif

Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Drink , 55 Lake Shore Boulevard East, Toronto, ON, M5E 1A4 ISSN 1195-5988

WATCH FOR THE AUTUMN I S S UE OF

AVA I LABLE SEPTEMBER 7

Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all LCBO stores.

PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE. Cette publication est également disponible en français.

10  FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2016

LE GRAND FIZZ. An elegant and refreshing blend of GreyGoose Vodka, St-Germain Elderflower Liqueur, soda water and lime. ® ®

ENJOY RESPONSIBLY. www.greygoose.com ©2016. GREY GOOSE. ITS TRADE DRESS AND THE GEESE DEVICE ARE TRADEMARKS. VODKA — 40% ALC./VOL. DISTILLED FROM GRAIN.

EDITOR’S NOTES

We here at Food & Drink know better than most (in fact, it’s kind of what we do), that before food hits our mouths, we eat with our eyes. Never is that more true than in summer, with the riot of colourful, fresh ingredients available to us all season long. But looking good isn’t good enough, those looks have to translate into good taste too…    We celebrate colour in several stories this issue. Most prominently in “Colour Palate” on page 96, where we feature a dish that represents each colour of the rainbow—starting with gorgeous red and yellow tomatoes through to a purple-themed cheese course. In “Ready for Rosé” we show- case summer’s favourite wine and, starting on page 127, we’ve created a recipe to be paired with three styles of pink—sparkling, dry and sweet—each one complementing the wine in flavour and in hue. Lavender fields in bloom are a magnificent sight (and smell) at this time of year, and we’ve added to the sensory pleasure in “Sweet on Lavender” on page 35 with four deli- cious desserts (and a Mojito) that fea- ture the flavour and colour of lavender.    Also in this issue, we’ve ventured where we’ve never ventured before—to a campsite! If camping is one of your summer pastimes, our “Camping Out” menu on page 74 elevates standard campfire fare to gourmet heights. Much of the menu is prepared before

you leave home, and what needs to be done on-site utilizes tools that you would typically have on hand, so you don’t need to pack anything extra. Keeping to the outdoor theme, we know you’re treasuring every last minute spent outside and if that means linger- ing on the back deck long past dinner, you just might get hungry again. With that in mind, you’ll find recipes for late-night snacks starting on page 109, featuring sweet and savoury bites that are just right for that time of night.    Discovering a new product, an amazing new cocktail recipe or a new way to serve something is one of sum- mer’s simple pleasures. Oftentimes, we latch on to those and they become become ideally suited to the season and to summer fare. In “Sophisticated Blends” on page 57, Eric Vellend has created four new blender drinks to appeal to a more mature palate (read: less sweet) while still satisfying the craving for icy refreshment. And finally, for the ultimate in convenience, check out “Summer of Pale Ale” (page 119) and “Cider Selections” (page 43) where all you need to do is pop the top to find your new summer favourite.    Savour the season—and this issue of Food & Drink ! “the drink of the summer.” May we propose a few ideas…? On page 102 James Chatto encourages us to not put away our red wines at this time of year. Instead, chill them down a bit and they

PORTRAIT BY STACEY BRANDFORD

FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER

SAVOURTHETASTES OF SUMMER .

473mLCanLCBO# 16907 | 6 x341mLBottle LCBO#927228 ©2005MOLSONCOORSCANADA, All rights reserved.Must be legal drinking age.

Superb quality. Distinctive character. Exceptional value. The finely crafted wines in our Essentials Collection make exploring the world of wine easy. View the entire collection of 130 proven favourites, handpicked by our experts. Always available. vintages.com/essentials.

Voluptuous

23741

COMING SOON! Shop online for Vintages Essentials and more at lcbo.com

Argentine Specialty

Great with beef burgers SMALL GULLY THE FORMULA ROBERT'S SHIRAZ South Australia 142935 750 mL $19.95 Full-bodied & Smooth Great with steak MONASTERIO DE LAS VIÑAS GRAN RESERVA DOP Cariñena, Spain 82024 750 mL $17.95 Medium-bodied & Fruity Great with garlic crab legs SUSANA BALBO CRIOS TORRONTÉS Argentina 1834 750 mL $13.95 Aromatic & Flavourful Great with grilled lamb CHÂTEAU ARGADENS AC, Bordeaux, France 681643 750 mL $17.95 Medium-bodied & Fruity

Classic Bordeaux

Seductive Spaniard

Prices subject to change without notice. Available in Vintages locations at select LCBO stores.

It’s no secret what’s behind a beautiful smile. It’s this brush.

Philips Sonicare DiamondClean removes up to 100% more stains than a manual toothbrush, for whiter teeth in 1 week and healthier gums in just 2. Featuring 5 adjustable settings and patented sonic technology, it comes with an innovative charging glass and USB charging travel case – so you can brighten your smile anywhere.

Results you’ll notice or your money back. Philips.ca/Sonicare

A SPLASH OF WHISKY BY VICTORIA WALSH  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

THE PROOF IS IN THE FLAVOUR WHEN YOU COOK WITH RYE WHISKY.

Homegrown Canadian rye whisky is gaining cachet with locavores and aficionados, who champion its wide array of complex, palate-pleasing flavours. Think toasty rye bread, caramel and warming spices like clove, cinnamon and ginger. In the home kitchen, rye’s profound fla- vours stand up well, allowing its potent taste to shine through in dishes. For this portobello burger, whisky is simmered with demerara sugar until it reaches a syrupy consistency. This sauce’s viscosity is excellent for glazing meaty mushrooms for a superior sandwich. When choosing a cheese to top these burgers, select one with robust, pungent and even earthy mushroomy or barnyard flavours, such as Camembert or Monte Enebro. Both of these cheeses are prime for this match, especially at room tem- perature in their ripe, runny, oozy state. Choose any that traditionally pair well with a sweet tipple—in this case the cheese is offset by the succulent whisky glaze.     Canadian Club 100% Rye ( LCBO 390583, $27.95) showcases oak, toasted grain and spiced charac- teristics. It’s an affordable and intensely flavoured pure rye whisky—both qualities that make it decidedly kitchen-friendly. Other dynamic Canadian rye whiskies to enjoy in the form of barbecue glazy-goodness are the trending, award-winning Crown Royal Northern Harvest Rye ( LCBO 434092, $34.95) and fruity, almost toffee-tasting Stalk & Barrel 100% Rye Whisky ( LCBO 415810, $69.95). And bonus: each of these whiskies stirs up into a stellar Manhattan or Old Fashioned, perfect alongside this summery burger.

WHISKY- GLAZED PORTOBELLO BURGERS recipe on page 153

FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2016 17

© 20 15 J OHNS ONVI LLE SAUS AGE, LLC

WHAT’S NEW COPY BY JULIA AITKEN  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

A WORLD OF NEW PRODUCTS AT THE LCBO AND VINTAGES.

REASON TO CELEBRATE

Conundrum White VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 694653, $24.95

Twenty-five years ago, Napa icon Chuck Wagner took a gamble on an unorthodox white blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Muscat Canelli and Viognier. The result? An exotic, bright wine, celebrated for its versatility. Thai, southern Indian or spicy Mexican fare: this white loves them all. Happy birthday, Conundrum!

CHIC LITTLE COOLER SoCIAL Lite Sparkling Lime Ginger LCBO 450445, 4 pk, $9.95 With no additives or preservatives, sugar or other sweeteners, this vodka cooler is a fresh addition to your sum- mer bar. Natural flavours of lime and ginger give it zesty style, and light carbonation adds a hint of spritz. It matches beautifully with seafood but is equally at home teamed with a lazy afternoon on the deck.

FRENCH CONTEMPORARY

Château Argadens 2011 VINTAGES 681643, $17.95

Made in a thoroughly modern style, this Bordeaux is terrific value. With a complex nose of ripened fruit, vanilla and cocoa, and soft, supple tannins, it’s ready to drink now. The blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc makes this wine a perfect pour with grilled beef or game and flavourful hard cheese.

FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2016 19

WHAT ’ S NEW

Belgian Moon  LCBO 457804, 473 mL, $2.65 When brewmaster Keith Villa returned to his native Denver after studying brewing in Belgium, he created a Belgian-style wheat ale to honour his alma mater. The result is a crisp, unfiltered brew that’s new to Canada. With subtle sweetness from Valencia orange peel, its spicy flavour goes well with Asian dishes or herb-infused grilled chicken. WHEAT BEER RISING

Beattie’s Farm-Crafted Potato Vodka LCBO 446625, $34.95 What entices a farmer to get into the vodka biz? Potatoes, that’s what. Ken Beattie, a fifth-generation potato farmer in Alliston, Ont., has branched out into distilling. Beattie uses potatoes and spring water fromhis own farm to craft a super-smooth, slightly sweet vodka. And he donates 50 cents from every bottle to his local community. LOCAL SPUDS, LOVELY VODKA

VERSATILE VALUE Columbia Crest Grand Estates Merlot LCBO 454835, $17.95

The Grand Estates line fromColum- bia Crest has a well-earned reputa- tion for great-value wines. This rich red, with notes of chocolate and dark cherries, is no exception. Look for complex fruit on the palate and a smooth, velvety finish. Wonderful with beef, it’s also versatile enough to pair with blue cheese or dark chocolate.

20  FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2016

Make your party the taste of the town.

Whether you’re entertaining your guests or choosing a hostess gift, locally made cheeses are a truly Canadian pleasure.

Canadian Aged Cheddar

Canadian Gouda

Canadian Brie

For delicious recipes visit

WHAT ’ S NEW

BACO FOR BARBECUE

Henry of Pelham Baco Noir Old Vines VQA LCBO 459966, $19.95

If you love the intense flavour of Baco Noir, thank the Speck brothers of Henry of Pelham. When other wine- makers were tearing out the vines, the Specks decided to nurture theirs. The result is one of Ontario’s most beloved varietals. The big jammy red is ideal for sum- mer fare and a must with grilled steak or lamb.

ONE OF A KIND

J.P. Wiser’s Last Barrels Canadian Whisky LCBO 461012, $75.40 This super-premiumwhisky was distilled in 2001 using the same recipe for grain mash mix first recorded in J.P. Wiser’s archives. Then the equipment was retired, making this whisky truly the last of its kind. Aged for 14 years in oak, it’s complex and smooth— and exclusive to the LCBO. There’s no finer Father’s Day gift.

LIGHT SUMMER SIPPER Bolla Soave Classico DOC LCBO 438945, $12.90 The Italian word soave translates as “soft,” and this classic Veneto white more than lives up to the name. Grapes fromwell-established vines give this refreshing white a lovely intensity—you’ll notice floral notes and hints of exotic fruit and honey. Serve chilled as an aperitif, or enjoy with seafood pastas and risottos or grilled fish.

22  FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2016

you may never make iT Back home

The same.

GoToBermuda.ca

MUST HAVES BY BRENDA MORRISON • PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI FROM MATCHSTICKS TO DRINK STICKS… OUTDOOR LIVING ESSENTIALS

REFRESH , RECYCLE For outdoor parties—or whenever you need unbreakable glassware— luxury plastic TOSSWARE is a smart option. The plastic rim feels just like glass when you’re sipping. Plus, they’re stackable and recyclable! Choose from five styles, including the tumbler ($9.99 for three), vino ($11.99 for four) and flute ($5.99 for two). For retailers: 1•800•361•0370.

THE LATEST SCOOP No more dipping an ice cream scoop into warm water to make the task easier. Instead, use a ScoopTHAT! ice cream scoop ($31.50). Designed to transfer heat from the handle to the edge of the scoop, it carves through even the hardest ice cream with e ortless ease. Especially useful when serving ice cream to many guests. For retailers: 1•888•632•6422.

NIGHT LIGHTS Even on a starry night, you may need a little extra light to play cards or enjoy outdoor snacks. Lightweight and portable, the Fatboy Transloetje ($169) is a gorgeous, energy-e cient LED lamp delivering three levels of brightness and lasting nine to 20 hours on a single charge. Afterwards, recharge with a micro-USB cable—just like a cell phone! Available in eight trans- parent colours at Neat (Toronto, neatspace.ca).

GOT A LIGHT? Be prepared to light candles for impromptu alfresco din- ners or unexpected brown- outs by keeping a Matchstick Bottle from Skeem Design ($22.98) on hand. Featur- ing a unique strike-on label, these vintage-style bottles contain wooden matches with colourful tips—lovely to display or give, alongside a candle. Available at Town (Toronto, 647•748•8696, townthestore.com).

BUZZ WORTHY The good old-fashioned method of using a jar filled with sugar water to attract and capture wasps has been given a modern makeover with this attractive SagaformWasp Trap ($36.99). A great hostess gift when visiting a cottage! Available at Bergo Designs (Toronto, 416•861•1821, bergo.ca).

CROWD PLEASER Originally designed for storing olive oil, the fustis is fast-becoming the “it” way to serve drinks this summer. With a 15-litre capacity, the stainless-steel beverage dispenser ($249) is a real crowd-pleaser at summer parties. Keep filled with water, fresh juice or even a large batch of Mojitos! Available at CB2 (Toronto, 416•366•2828, cb2.com).

FOR HIP STIRS Here’s a delightful way to add a retro touch to your mocktails and cocktails (and help guests identify their drinks). These acrylic Mod Stir Sticks (set of 8, $31.99) are made in the mid-century design capital of Palm Springs and are available at BYOB Cocktail Emporium (Toronto, 647•727•3600, cocktailemporium.ca).

FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2016 25

COOL SUMMER GIFTS Fun and functional ice buckets and neoprene gift bags capture the spirit of summer’s easygoing entertaining.

JUST ADD ICE! Galvanized Pail $6.95 each products sold separately

KEEP YOUR WINE CHILLED! Neoprene Bottle Bag $5.95 each products sold separately

Available at select LCBO stores while quantities last.

TREND SPOTTING BY KAT TANCOCK  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR FROM THE WORLD OF FOOD AND DRINK.

Along with Canada’s love affair with taquerías has come an affection for the desserts that often follow tacos—specifically, paletas , Mexican ice pops (named for the palos , or sticks, they come on) in a creative palette of flavours. Easy to make at home (and just as easy to eat), they’re the perfect sweet treat in this season of abundant fresh local fruit—and perfectly refreshing on summer’s hottest days.

PHOTO BY JAMES TSE

FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2016 27

TREND SPOTT ING

PALETAS

What ice cream shops are to Canada, paleterías are to Mexico—purveyors of frozen treats in countless flavours and colours to satisfy kids and adults alike. Mexico’s paletas are more than just your standard ice pops, says Fany Gerson, author of the cookbook Paletas (Ten Speed Press, 2011) and owner of La Newyorkina, a Mexican ice and sweet shop in New York City. Divided into water- and dairy- based categories, they showcase the country’s rich diversity of fresh, colourful produce and its cuisine’s love of sweet, salty, sour and spicy fla- vours that coexist beautifully in combinations like avocado-lime and pineapple-chili, often featuring chunks of fruit, coconut or other ingredients to add texture. “They’re made with real ingredients,” Gerson adds, “and they’re very playful and fun.”

TIPS FOR SUCCESS In her book, Gerson shares some tips for making your own paletas: ➤ Sugar content can be adjusted to taste, but keep in mind that food tastes less sweet when it’s cold. Then again, pops won’t freeze if they contain too much sugar. ➤ A little alcohol turns paletas into fla- vourful frozen cocktails, but too much will prevent them from freezing, so stick with recipe proportions. ➤ Depending on your mould, sticks might want to float instead of resting securely in your paletas. To combat this, let them freeze until slushy before insert- ing sticks and returning to the freezer. ➤ Ice pops come easily out of some moulds and not so easily out of others. In some cases, a warm hand is sufficient; if not, try running the bases under the tap or dipping them in warm water. ➤ For ease of storage and serving, remove all paletas from your moulds at once, wrap each in waxed paper (or insert in a small freezer bag) and return to the freezer.

Just about any freezer-safe vessel can be used as a paleta mould, so long as the opening is the same width as or wider than the bottom and it’s a size that will be enjoyable to eat—think shot glasses or disposable cups. Or purchase specialized equipment like these moulds: ➤ Make 10 paletas at a time in the classic rectangular shape (shown), amazon.ca ➤ A stainless steel option that’s easy to stack in the freezer, amazon.ca ➤ Mini pops for smaller serving sizes in easy-to-release silicone, iqliving.com TOOLS OF THE TRADE [ WHAT TO USE ]

FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER

r the

at outd rs *

* Even if being “outdoors” means sitting on a patio.

BBQ

GLAMPING

NOSHING

BEACHING

CHILLS FASTER • ECO-FRIENDLY LIGHTWEIGHT • EASY TO CARRY

GirlsNightOutWines.com

TREND SPOTT ING

TRY AT HOME

Coconut Ginger Paleta recipe on page 156 With a creaminess from both canned coconut milk and dairy, these paletas feature a subtle spiciness from infused fresh ginger slices and option- al chunks of candied ginger. Pineapple Habanero Margarita Paleta recipe on page 156 Adjust the spiciness in these fruity, cocktail-inspired ice pops to fit your own taste— and the heat level of your habaneros, which can vary from pepper to pepper.

Seasonal Success “The quality of your ingredients is key,” says Heather Trim, who developed our paleta recipes. “The most important thing is getting fresh fruit.” Rather than sticking verbatim to recipes, she adds, experiment with flavour combinations that make the most of what’s in season, whether from the market or your own backyard.

Watermelon Lemonade Paleta recipe on page 156

These pretty pink paletas hint at tartness with fresh lemon juice. Make an adults-only version by adding limoncello.

GET CREATIVE WITH LAYERS

Flavour Inspiration Just about anything goes in a paleta—Heather has come across whole Oreo cookies frozen inside creamy ones, for example. She shares some combinations to get your creative juices flowing:

For a fun twist on single-note paletas, Heather suggests creating layered pops that incorporate two or more flavours. Her tips: ➤ Choose complementary colours, such as green (honeydew), pink (raspberry) and orange. ➤ Freeze the first layer until partially frozen— enough so that mixtures won’t meld, but not so much that sticks can’t be removed and re-inserted. ➤ Remove sticks, pour in the next mixture, re-insert sticks and return to freezer. Repeat until all lay- ers are added, freezing partially between each layer, then return to freezer and freeze until solid.

➤ Raspberry and rose water ➤ Strawberry, balsamic and pink pepper ➤ Café latte with cacao nibs

Mango and banana

➤

PORTRAIT BY ROBERTO CARUSO

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FOOD  SEASONAL Sweet onLavender BEAUTIFUL FIELDS BURSTING WITH LAVENDER ARE ONE OF THE JOYS OF LATE SUMMER— BUT BEAUTY ASIDE, THIS IS ONE SUMPTUOUS HERB IN ALL SORTS OF TREATS. BY JULIA AITKEN  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

L AV E ND E R L EMON CU R D TA RT S recipe on page 154

FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2016 35

SHOT ON LOCATION AT TERRE BLEU LAVENDER FARM. TO PURCHASE PRODUCTS VISIT WWW.TERREBLEU.CA

SEASONAL  SWEET ON LAVENDER

England’s Queen Elizabeth I had a penchant for a preserve made with lavender, and lavender-spiked herbes de Provence is the darling of southern French cuisine, appearing on grilled meats and in vegetable stews. Versatile lavender works well in all kinds of recipes, but we love its floral aroma and flavour best in sweet treats.

PURPLE POWER When experimenting with lavender in the kitchen, remember that a little of the pungent herb goes a long way. To avoid your food tasting like a bath bomb, check out these tips: ➤ Only buy culinary lavender so you know it’s safe to eat and has good flavour. Choose dried lavender packaged by a major herb producer, such as McCormick or, if buying lavender from a farm, ask if it’s suitable for cooking. To find a farm near you that sells culinary lavender, visit ontariolavenderassociation.org. ➤ To grow your own culinary lavender, look for the name Lavandula angustifolia on the label. This variety has the sweetest scent and mellowest flavour. Other varieties can taste medicinal. ➤ To dry lavender, harvest the stems when the flower buds are still closed. Tie in bunches and hang, blooms down, in a cool, dark, well- ventilated spot until thoroughly dried. Rub the buds from the stems with your fingers and store in an airtight container in a cool, dark place for up to six months. ➤ To add subtle lavender flavour to grilled meat or poultry (it goes particularly well with lamb and chicken), toss some fresh or dried laven- der stems directly on the hot coals. ➤ When garnishing with lavender sprigs, pick sprigs from your own garden or buy organic lavender to ensure it’s food-safe.

LAVENDER-RASPBERRY MOJ ITO recipe on page 154

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SEASONAL  SWEET ON LAVENDER

BLUEBERRY-LAVENDER WHITE CHOCOLATE CHEESECAKE recipe on page 155

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SEASONAL  SWEET ON LAVENDER

3 In a medium bowl, whisk together sugar and cocoa powder until almost no lumps remain. 4 Bring lavender water to a simmer over medium heat. Whisk in sugar mixture un- til smooth. Simmer for 5 minutes, whisking occasionally. 5 Remove saucepan from heat and add choc- olate. Stir until chocolate has melted and mix- ture is smooth. Let cool to room temperature. Chill overnight in fridge. 6 In an ice-creammaker and following manu- facturer’s instructions, churn chocolate mix- ture until frozen. Scrape into a 3-cup (750-mL) container and freeze until scoopable, about 6 hours. (Sorbet can be stored in freezer for up to 3 days.) 7 Scoop into individual glasses and garnish with fresh berries and lavender or mint sprigs. Makes about 2 cups (500 mL), 4 servings

The chocolate in this decadent sorbet not only adds rich flavour but keeps the frozen treat soft enough to scoop straight from the freezer. 1 tbsp (15 mL) dried culinary lavender 2 cups (500 mL) water 1 cup (250 mL) granulated sugar ½ cup (125 mL) good-quality cocoa powder 2 oz (60 g) good-quality dark chocolate, finely chopped Fresh berries to serve Fresh, organic lavender or mint sprigs for garnish 1 In a mortar and pestle, pound lavender to release its oils. 2 In a medium saucepan, stir together water and pounded lavender. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium and simmer for 2 minutes. Remove saucepan from heat and let stand, uncovered, for 1 hour. Strain water and return to saucepan, discard- ing lavender.

WHAT TO SERVE Fonseca Bin No.27 Reserve Porto LCBO 325506, $16.95 Criollo Bourbon Dark Chocolate Liquor LCBO 428425, 375 mL, $17.95

LAVENDER- CHOCOLATE SORBET

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Afford

to Retire

In Elliot Lake, your nest egg goes further. Offering the most affordable retirement lifestyle in Ontario, with rents from as little as $500. 00 per month , you can afford to do the things you have always wanted to in your retirement. Book your Discovery Tour, which includes: 1 Free Night (Second night at $30.00 + taxes) at the Hampton Inn Elliot Lake and enjoy a tour of the city and our properties.

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Source: CMHC Rental Market Report Fall 2015

SEASONAL  SWEET ON LAVENDER

1 For cookies, combine flour, cornstarch, ic- ing sugar, lavender, pepper and salt in a food processor. Pulse about 12 times or until well combined and lavender is fragrant. 2 Add butter to food processor. Pulse about 20 times or until dough just starts to clump together. 3 Scrape dough out onto a work surface and gather into a ball. Form dough into a 1-inch- thick (2.5-cm) disc, wrap tightly in plastic wrap and chill for 30 minutes. 4 Preheat oven to 300°F (150°C). 5 On a lightly floured surface, roll out dough to ¼-inch (5-mm) thickness. Using 2- to 2½‑inch (5- to 6-cm) decorative cookie cutters, cut out cookies and place, a little apart, on ungreased baking sheets. 6 Bake until edges of cookies are tinged pale brown, 18 to 20minutes. Carefully remove cook- ies from baking sheets and let cool completely on wire racks.

7 For icing, sift icing sugar into a medium bowl. Gradually stir in 2 tbsp (30 mL) milk until a smooth icing forms. Carefully add red and blue food colouring, a drop at a time, add- ing about twice as much red as blue, until icing is tinted pale lilac. If icing is too stiff, add a little more milk. 8 Pipe or spread each cookie with a little of the icing. Sprinkle each with a pinch of laven- der, pepper and/or decorative sugar. Let icing set before serving. Makes about 30 cookies

The unusual combo of sweet lavender and spicy black pepper makes these pretty cookies strangely addictive.

COOKIES 1 cup (250 mL) all-purpose flour ½ cup (125 mL) cornstarch ½ cup (125 mL) icing sugar

1 tbsp (15 mL) dried culinary lavender 1 tsp (5 mL) freshly ground black pepper Pinch of table salt ¾ cup (175 mL) unsalted butter, softened

ICING 1 cup (250 mL) icing sugar

WHAT TO SERVE Ninety Canadian Rye Whisky 20 Year Old LCBO 355644, $50.15 Henry of Pelham Special Select

2 tbsp (30 mL) milk (approx.) Red and blue food colouring Fresh organic lavender blooms or dried culinary lavender, freshly ground black pepper and/or purple decorative sugar for garnish

Late Harvest Vidal VQA LCBO 395228, 375 mL, $19.95

FROSTED LAVENDER-PEPPER SHORTBREAD COOKIES

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Since 1995, our Belgian-style wheat ale has been crafted with Valencia orange peel and garnished with an orange slice to bring out the extraordinary citrus aroma and taste.

© 2005 MOLSON COORS CANADA, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. MUST BE LEGAL DRINKING AGE.

DRINK  SEASONAL

C I DE R S E L E C T I ON S

BY STEPHEN BEAUMONT  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE

HUGELY POPULAR, CIDERS OFFER A WEALTH OF OPTIONS—TO SIMPLIFY YOUR CHOICES, WE’VE GROUPED THEM TOGETHER BY STYLE SO THAT IF YOU LIKE ONE BRAND, YOU’LL KNOWWHICH OTHERS TO TRY.

Once upon a time, we would order “white wine” without specifying whether we wanted Char- donnay, Viognier or Sauvignon Blanc, call for a “whisky and soda” and not even mention whether we desired the national spirit of Canada, the United States, Ireland or Scotland. And in the days when most big name brands shared a similar flavour profile, we’d belly up to the bar and announce our drink order with but a single, solitary word: “beer.”    It’s a bit like that these days with cider. Although listings at the LCBO have in recent years mush- roomed from a mere handful of ciders to more than 40, awareness of the beverage has not grown apace. To many consumers, perhaps the majority, cider is simply fermented apple juice, sometimes flavoured with the juices of other fruits, but otherwise mostly the same. It’s an impression that could scarcely be further from the truth.    Today’s ciders are anything but a one-size-fits- all proposition, arriving in a rich mosaic of flavours and aromas, from sweet and robustly apple-ish to dry and pleasingly musty, sometimes bearing flavours from mixed berries or citrus to a spiciness evocative of apple pie filling. It’s a diversity that makes navigating the cider aisle a very different proposition than it was even a handful of years ago.    Fortunately, just as beer, wine and spirits may be separated into styles and sub-styles, so too can cider be grouped by family, allowing apple aficio- nados to experiment broadly without the risk of losing their way. To get started, consider the fol- lowing seven broadly based categories.

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SEASONAL  CIDER SELECTIONS

DRY CIDERS A cider classic born on the farms of rural England, dry cider puts the emphasis squarely on the essence of the apple, focusing on the fruit’s perfume and concentrated flavour, rather than its sugary sweet- ness. These are ciders that echo some white wines in their appetizing crispness, sometimes with hints of funky appeal, and are the preferred choice of purists and connoisseurs.

COUNTY CIDER LCBO 459370, 1 L, $7.85

Fragrant and perfumy on the nose, this Ontario cider mixes flavours of red and green apples in a crisp body that starts just off-dry and grows drier and faintly funky as it progresses to its quenching finish.

POMMIES FARMHOUSE CIDER

KW CRAFT CIDER LCBO 457044, 4 pk, $14.10

IRONWOOD HARD CIDER

LCBO 405241, 473 mL, $2.95

LCBO 418582, 473 mL, $3.05 Red apple notes and a glimmer of fruity sweetness make this a fresh-tasting cider with broad appeal.

A cider for Ries- ling drinkers, with soft and fruity sweetness, gentle

Green apple and a hint of pepper characterize this quite dry cider with an agreeably barnyard aroma.

acidity and an off-dry finish.

OFF-DRY CIDERS A bit of extra residual sugar lends the members of this cider class a slightly fuller and more rounded body, although the best of them will still dry out in the finish. Fresh red, green or mixed apple flavours tend to complete the profile and make these among the most food-friendly of ciders.

THORNBURY PREMIUM APPLE CIDER LCBO 333583, 473 mL, $2.95 Flavours reminiscent of sweet Empire apples announce the arrival of this boldly apple-forward cider backed by bracing acidity.

SAVANNA PREMIUM CIDER LCBO 379818, 4 pk, $9.95

WAUPOOS PREMIUM CIDER LCBO 612804, 4 pk, $13.35 One of Ontario’s oldest cider brands

Although the bottle says “dry,” there is a light, fresh sweetness to this South African cider, reminiscent of Golden Deli- cious apples but drier and with some spicy complexity, finish- ing with a balanced acidity.

offers a woodsy fruitiness that’s mildly sweet but finishes bone dry.

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It’s hard to imagine anything simpler. Marcangelo redefines your BBQ. It’s time for a KABOB-BQ ™ . Our Kabobs are an easy and convenient choice for entertaining this summer. Tender cuts of seasoned chicken, beef or pork, simply prepared and ready in minutes.

* No Purchase Necessary. Open to residents of Canada (age of majority). Starts Jun 20/16 (1:00:00 p.m. ET) and ends Sept 6/16 (11:59:59 p.m. ET). 474 Daily Instant Win Prizes [6 per day; 5x $5 and 1x $50; odds depend on number and timing of entries] and three (3) Grand Prizes [$3,000 each; odds depend on number of entries]. PINs must be entered at the Contest website no later than Sept 6/16 (11:59:59 p.m. ET). Skill-testing question required. Enter online and full rules (including no purchase entry details and complete prize descriptions) at www.kabob-bq.ca. For all of our perfectly pre-seasoned Kabobs and recipes visit marcangelofoods.com or check us out on

SEASONAL  CIDER SELECTIONS

PEAR CIDERS What the English call a “perry” comes to Ontario in two versions, one a pure fermented pear juice and the other an apple cider flavoured with pear. Either way, perries range from fairly sweet to off-dry, with plenty of fresh pear notes in the aroma and a body similar to that of apple cider but with notable fruity differences.

SIR PERRY PEAR CIDER LCBO 8144, 500 mL, $3.15

Although made from sweetened pear juice, this imported perry is more dry than sweet, with a spicy and complex pear aroma and an off-dry body that suggests several different varieties of pear leading to a slightly tangy finish.

SIR ISAAC’S PREMIUM PEAR CIDER LCBO 312843, 473 mL, $2.95 An all-Ontario perry with a spicy pear aroma and a soft, rounded and mildly sweet body.

OKANAGAN PREMIUM DRY PEAR CIDER

MAGNERS PEAR CIDER LCBO 279646, 500 mL, $3.20

LCBO 391862, 473 mL, $2.75

The famous Irish ci- der producer offers a perry that’s sweet and a bit sugary, with a round Bartlett pear flavour.

Hugely fragrant and medium-sweet, this pear-flavoured apple cider is like drinking the essence of fresh pear.

FRUIT CIDERS Ciders now arrive in flavours well beyond pear, including those accented by fruits from berries to lemon to peaches and even a cider-centred shandy. For anyone looking for something beyond simple apple or pear, these provide a robustly sweet and fruity alternative. REKORDERLIGWILD BERRIES CIDER LCBO 413500, 500 mL, $2.95 Pink and fragrant and highly fruity, this Swedish original is best characterized as a cider crossed with a wine cooler, with a fruit salad start, mixed berry notes throughout and a sugary, faintly herbal finish.

CIDERS UNTO THEMSELVES

Not every flavoured cider can fit neatly into a category. Some cry out to be enjoyed on their own terms, freed from convention or preconception.

HOPPING MAD CIDER RADLER LCBO 453282, 473 mL, $2.95

A tangy yin to the sweet fruit cider yang, boasting crisp cider notes accented by sweet and tart grapefruit.

SOMERSBY BLACKBERRY CIDER LCBO 331348, 500 mL, $3.05 A flavoured cider that shows its apple pedigree in the aroma and the front, with greater berry notes towards the finish.

STRONGBOW GINGER CIDER LCBO 453993, 440 mL, $2.85 Peppery ginger lends a spicy accent to this generally sweet cider that finishes off-dry and zesty.

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Just 30 minutes west of Toronto, in the town of Milton and the hamlet of Campbellville, lies one of Ontario’s most spectacular agro-tourism destinations: Terre Bleu Lavender Farm. Millions of lavender flowers create a relaxing and joy-filled escape from life in the city. Guided tours, fragrant air, singing birds and yoga in the fields will ground your very soul. Create a craft or try cooking with our premium culinary lavender. Relax, listen to live music, browse our art gallery, or simply shop from our exclusive line of lavender products, including our renowned lavender honey, ice cream, gouda and macarons.

TERREBLEU.CA

SEASONAL  CIDER SELECTIONS

SPICY CIDERS Fermentation can work in strange and mysterious ways, sometimes creating unexpected flavours like apple pie spices and peppery notes where they might not otherwise be expected. These ciders emphasize those elements while also ranging from moderately sweet to just off-dry, and their spiciness is expressed most notably in the finish.

BLACKTHORN CIDER LCBO 619551, 500 mL, $2.95 The spiciness of this English cider is immediately ex- pressed in its slightly funky, peppery aroma, which presages the dry, apple pie filling nature of its body. A crisp, dehydrated apple finish completes the picture.

STRONGBOW CIDER

SHINY APPLE CIDER LCBO 407668, 473 mL, $3.25 Fresh, bright and

LCBO 560532, 500 mL, $3.00

Fragrant and spicy with baked apple notes, this off-dry cider finishes with a quenching hint of citrus.

summery is the best way to describe this zesty cider made from Ontario apples.

SWEET CIDERS For those who prefer their drinks on the sweeter side, these can be either regular ciders enhanced with sugar or ciders fermented only to the point that generous amounts of residual sugar from the fruit remains. Sometimes served over ice, they can ably take the place of a fruity cocktail or sweet wine like Moscato.

MAGNERS ORIGINAL IRISH CIDER LCBO 699389, 500 mL, $3.05 The 17 kinds of apple used in the making of this renowned Irish cider make it difficult to identify the flavour of specific apple va- rieties, but a sweet and roundly fruity taste makes it immediately identifiable.

SEAGRAM’S CIDER LCBO 279539, 473 mL, $2.75 Ripe Canadian apples lend a fruit-sugar charac- ter to this spritzy take on the sweet cider style.

MOLSON CANADIAN CIDER

TURNING POINT APPLE CIDER

LCBO 339770, 473 mL, $2.95

LCBO 455832, 473 mL, $3.00 A somewhat

Round red apple flavours typify this sweet and straightfor- ward spinoff of one of Canada’s best-known beer brands.

subdued take on a mixed green and red apple flavour, with a faintly phe­ nolic finish.

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