LCBO Food & Drink Summer 2016

WINE  READY FOR ROSÉ

Dry

A great dry rosé has the beauty and finesse— and subtle strength—of a ballet dancer. There’s something decidedly sophisticated going on beneath that charming smile.

Dry, sturdy, complex rosés do well with poultry, seafood, most pastas and salads—but with grilled steak? And what about those sweet-and-sour cher­ ries that have been seethed, albeit briefly, with vinegar? We tested seven wines with Lucy’s deli- cious recipe and while the lightest were dimin- ished by the pairing, three were outstanding. The only southern Rhône AOC that produces nothing but rosé, Tavel has always had a reputation as a most “serious” wine and Famille Perrin Tavel 2015 (VINTAGES 680801, $19.95) shows why. Its infra- structure of alcohol and acidity stood up easily to the medium-rare meat while its own sophisti- cated cherry flavours perfectly echoed the cher- ries in the recipe. Hecht & Bannier Bandol Rosé 2015 ( VINTAGES 450767, $24.95) is another beauti- fully crafted wine from the south of France, bal- ancing tangy apricot and pomegranate aromas with a hint of spiciness. It too used the cherries as a bridge into the dish and had enough charac- ter to withstand the challenge presented by the grilled surface of the steak. Quails’ Gate Rosé 2015 (VINTAGES 275842, $18.95) is a blend of 80 percent Gamay Noir with splashes of Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris and can take the caramelized flavours of the grill in its stride. It offers good length and plenty of intensity with the illusion of juicy citrus welling up behind its red berry flavours. Point proven: some rosés aren’t as dainty as they look!

Hanger Steak with Grilled Vidalia Onions recipe on page 160

130  FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2016