LCBO Food & Drink Summer 2017

Green onion & ricotta gougères recipe on page 156

Global Vodkas

Once upon a Martini time, vodka aficionados used to confine their arguments to the merits of Polish and Russian spirits. The world has now grown bigger, with first- class vodkas coming from traditional gin countries such as England and the Netherlands, and from parts of France like Cognac and Bordeaux that may be better known for other drinks. Each one has a fascinating back story to be found on its website—fuel for discussion at your vodka tasting. Even without the extra dimensions of oak barrels and ageing that mean so much to brown spirits, there’s still plenty to talk about. Source: Wheat. This famous Dutch vodka is partly pro- duced in pot stills, giving spirit of a slightly oily weight and a long, aromatic finish. The earthy, sweet grainy aro- mas are mirrored in the palate. Great with tonic. WYBOROWA WÓDKA LCBO 5363, $27.25 Source: Rye. Fabulous value, this complex Polish vodka has all the peppery, spicy prickle of rye—on the nose and on the palate. With its light, elegant texture and decent length, it’s a versatile solution to all your vodka needs. BLACK COW PURE MILK SPIRIT LCBO 486563, $50.20 Source: Pure cow’s milk whey, the by-product from a renowned cheese-making dairy farm in West Dorset, England. Creamy, full-bodied texture. Sweet vanilla sug- gestion on the finish. Try it with scallops, sushi or even cheesecake! CÎROC SPIRIT DRINK LCBO 417295, $50.20 Source: Grapes, fermented into wine in Bordeaux, France, then distilled five times. Big aroma of Muscat grapes and citrus jumps out of the glass. Very smooth, very deli- cious—ideal for a very dry Martini. FAIR QUINOA VODKA LCBO 486571, $49.95 Source: Grain and fair-trade Andean quinoa, distilled in Cognac, France. Very light, ethereal texture. It has a grassy, almost fruity quality that works beautifully with dry vermouth. KETEL ONE LCBO 456095, $35.15

Grilled radishes with caviar butter recipe on page 156

What’s the difference Part 2 It’s not just what it was made from: many other factors help make up a vodka’s unique profile. Was it distilled in a pot still rather than a col- umn still? If so, it will probably have more aromatics and viscosity. How many times was it distilled and how was it filtered—through charcoal, or through crystals or lava rocks, quartz sand or mesh? Did it get an extra, sub-zero filtration like the cleansing conducted at –18°C that gives Stolichnaya Elit ( LCBO 254631, $59.95) such a distinctive smooth weight? And what was the water used to dilute the spirit to bottle strength? Did it come from melting an iceberg or the more common practice of running an urban tap? So many variables to consider. It’s true that the differences they make can be subtle—but vodka is a subtle drink.

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