LCBO Food & Drink Summer 2018

LCBO Food & Drink Summer 2018

SUMMER 2018

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

FEATURES

68 SIDE SHOWS

By Christopher St. Onge New condiments, rubs, salads and more that are sure to become go-to staples all summer long.

76

76 SUNSHINE IN A GLASS By Eric Vellend

Lemonade cocktails lend a sunny tang to backyard parties and barbecues.

82 BY THE SEA

By Lucy Waverman Switch it up on the BBQ with seafood in the starring role—the centrepiece of a casual, help‑yourself gathering.

88 CIDER ON THE RISE By James Chatto

Ontario craft ciders have taken off in a groundswell of popularity, and are especially ideal for this time of year.

96 SAVOURING WATERMELON By Signe Langford

Most often an unadorned sweet treat, watermelon goes savoury in delectable mains and sides. ON THE COVER Zucchini Slaw Sandwich, recipe on page 156. Photography by Rob Fiocca

FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2018 5

TABLE OF CONTENTS

DRINK

SPIRITS GINS OF DISTINCTION By James Chatto

41

DEPARTMENTS FOOD

With growing appreciation for gin in all its varied styles and flavour profiles, a guide to what’s on offer and the best way to serve your bottle of choice.

FLAVOURS VEGGING OUT By Christopher St. Onge

33

SEASONAL GOOD & READY By Tara Luxmore

59

Fresh seasonal produce steals the show in hearty and satisfying sandwiches—delectable for every day yet special enough for guests. TWISTS STARTING WITH STYLE By Jennifer MacKenzie Surprisingly easy to make, tuiles take a turn as savoury appetizers for summer entertaining. ENTERTAINING THRILLS OF THE GRILL By Michelle Rabin Wow your guests with splurge-worthy top‑cut proteins— used to perfection in our exceptional BBQ recipes. SEASONAL COLD COMFORTS By Joanne Yolles Four standout icebox desserts that are well worth the effort—satisfying sweet cravings and refreshing the palate.

For an effortless end to a dinner party, ready-to‑drink coolers are matched with easy-to-assemble desserts that bring out the best in each other.

51

BEER SWEET ON SOUR By James Chatto & Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic

103

Food-friendly sour beer is catching on—find out what it is, why it appeals to wine drinkers and how to serve it, including perfectly paired recipes.

113

WINE SUMMER SAMPLING By Charlene Rooke

123

Name your favourite summer varietal and we’ll suggest a similar one you’re bound to enjoy—plus new labels to try in your go-to style. IN EVERY ISSUE A SPLASH OF WINE Pinot Grigio provides a punch of fresh flavour in a summery take on classic carbonara pasta. WHAT’S NEW A selection of products from around the world available at the LCBO and Vintages. MUST-HAVES Things we love for entertaining and around the house. TRENDSPOTTING From ice-baths to ice cubes, everything you need to know to serve the coolest drinks this summer. EDITOR’S NOTES

131

10

15

131

17

22

25

RECIPE INDEX

162 164

KITCHEN ESSENTIALS Salad Dressing: Expand your skills or learn something new through technique, information, recipes and tips.

6  FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2018

COMING NEXT ISSUE

52 It’s our

VP Marketing ..................................Kerri Dawson Editor .................................................Jody Dunn Art Directors ...................................Karen Lim, Cathy Cicchini

Senior Editor ..................................James Chatto Food Editor .......................................Lucy Waverman

Contributing Editors ....................Charlene Rooke, Kat Tancock Publication Coordinators .........Margot Blais, Leslie Virdo Graphic Designers ........................Wincy Law, Dominique Patafio, Pat Turbach

Production Manager ...................Mark Greene Production Coordinator ............Judy Haverkort Publication Assistant .................Piper MacFadyen Production Assistant ..................Everton Smith

Food Stylists ...................................Christopher St. Onge, Joanne Tsakos Prop Stylists ....................................Catherine MacFadyen, Andrea McCrindle, Shelly Shnier Contributors ..................................Julia Aitken, Anna Kohn, Signe Langford,

Tara Luxmore, Jennifer MacKenzie, Brenda Morrison, Michelle Rabin, Christopher St. Onge, Eric Vellend, Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic, Joanne Yolles

Autumn 2018 is Food & Drink ’s 25 th anniversary issue and to mark the occasion we have created a special collector’s edition of the magazine that is the ultimate guide to dinner parties. We hope you will enjoy it!

Publisher ..........................................Wayne Leek

For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about products and policy please contact hello online at hellolcbo.com, or call toll-free 800•668•5226 or 416•365•5900. TTY Only: 416•864•6898 or 800•361•3291. For advertising in Food & Drink magazine, please contact Keystone Media, 416•224•1500 or e-mail foodanddrink@keystonemedia.ca. All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the ’s advertising agreement. Food & Drink is published six times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Volume 25, Number 6. Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 percent post-consumer fibre. Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs.

Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Drink , 55 Lake Shore Boulevard East, Toronto,

, 5 1 4

1195-5988

THE ANN I VE R SARY I S S UE OF

WI LL BE AVA I LABLE SEPTEMBER 1 2

Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all stores. . Cette publication est également disponible en français.

FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER

MUST BE LEGAL DRINKING AGE

EDITOR’S NOTES

Watermelon, lemonade, ice cream and grilling… You’ll find recipes starring all your summertime favourites in this issue. From savoury takes on watermelon (page 96) and re- freshing lemonade cocktails (page 76) to stunning icebox desserts (page 131) and show-stopping recipes for the BBQ (page 113), we’ve given each one a fresh twist for your seasonal enter- taining. Plus we share 18 new recipes for condiments, side dishes, salads and more that are sure to become new summer essentials in “Side Shows” on page 68.    As summer goes on, there may come a time where the thought of another burger loses its appeal. That’s when “By the Sea” on page 82 and “Vegging Out” on page 33 will come in handy. Whether you’re craving a seafood feast or a hearty sandwich bursting with seasonal produce, either story is sure to satisfy. The same is true for drinks, if you grow tired of your favourite brew, consider Ontario cider (page 88) for a change. On the wine and spirit side, both “Summer Sampling” (page 123) and “Gins of Distinction” (page 41) o er sugges-

tions for switch-ups and alternatives we think you’ll love.    Of course, at this time of year, simple pleasures can be the most rewarding—like a perfectly chilled beverage, or perfecting your house salad dressing. Let Eric Vellend and Lucy Waverman be your guides on these quests, starting on page 25 for ice and on page 164 for dressings. And for dessert? On page 59 we’ve paired store-bought and no bake goodies with products from the LCBO’s ready- to-drink collection for an e ortless end to a dinner party.    We know summer may feel short this year since it got o to a late start, but the change of seasons will bring something to look forward to. Our Autumn issue is our 25th anniversary and we are working on a special collector’s edition to commemorate the occasion. It’ll be the ultimate guide to dinner parties, no matter the occasion or your expertise—full of great menus, drinks and tips. Follow @lcbo and #FoodAndDrink25 on social media to find out more and be

a part of the celebration. Have a great summer!

PORTRAIT BY JAMES TSE

FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER

Celebrating twenty five years as Ontario’s source for entertaining ideas. Watch for our anniversary issue, available September 12 th

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#FoodAndDrink25

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A SPLASH OF WINE BY JULIA AITKEN  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY DARREN KEMPER THE PROOF IS IN THE FLAVOUR WHEN YOU COOK WITH PINOT GRIGIO.

SUMMER CARBONARA WITH SUGAR SNAPS & SLOW- ROASTED GRAPE TOMATOES recipe on page 161

If ingredients were clothes (work with us here), pasta would be the little black dress. It can be presented plain and simple—think penne tossed in butter and Parmesan—or gussied up to the nines, like a multi-layered lasagna or spaghetti with a slow-cooked ragù. Best of all, pasta remains in style whatever the season.     Our summery pasta takes the hearty bacon-and-egg saucing of a classic carbonara and brightens it up for warmer weather with the chew of slow-cooked tomatoes and the crisp bite of sugar snaps.     To accessorize further, we complement the richness of our sauce with a little acidity and a punch of fresh flavour from a splash of VOGA Pinot Grigio ( LCBO 669226, $14.55). With its fresh grassy nose and hints of lemon and lime, it’s perfect both in and with the pasta. Refreshing in the mouth with notes of almond, peach and more of that citrus hit, it goes well, too, with other eggy dishes, like quiche or eggs benny, and it teams beautifully with sushi or grilled vegetables.     And, as for the striking VOGA bottle with its handy-dandy screw cap as well as a cork, it’s the very last word in chic.

FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2018 15

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WHAT’S NEW BY JULIA AITKEN  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY DARREN KEMPER

A WORLD OF NEW PRODUCTS AT THE LCBO AND VINTAGES.

CITRUS SPARKLER

Breezer Sparkling Grapefruit & Mandarin LCBO 553297, 6 pk, $11.95

Just in time for lazy weekends or back- yard get-togethers, this new addition to the ready-to-drink line of sodas will be a welcome summer beverage. Low in sugar, carbs and calories, and with a zesty cit- rus taste, it teams well with fresh-tasting dishes like sushi and poke—and the tall, slim cans chill down super-fast.

A WINNING RED Tawse Growers Blend Pinot Noir VQA VINTAGES 130989, $25.95 Since 2010, Tawse Winery on the Niagara Escarpment has garnered Winery of the Year four times at the National Wine Awards of Canada—a remarkable honour made possible by wines like this elegant red. Concen- trated and complex, with notes of cherry, earth, cedar and spice, the wine is a beautiful match with grilled lamb or seared tuna.

CREAM OF THE CROP La Crema Sonoma Coast Chardonnay VINTAGES 962886, $29.95 This luscious white has all the attributes we love in a Californian Chardonnay. Look for flavours of lemon drop, yellow plum and melon plus a lingering finish. A superb sipper for sunny evenings on the deck, the wine is also an ideal pairing with rich seafood—think lobster or crab with a buttery sauce—or simple roast chicken.

FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2018 17

WHAT ’ S NEW

EFFORTLESS ENTERTAINING Girls’ Night Out White Sangria LCBO 556712, $8.95

This blend of all-natural fruit flavours and white wine is a new addition to the successful Girls’ Night Out line. With tastes of crisp citrus and juicy peach, the zip of ginger on the finish and a little bit of fizz, it makes summer enter- taining a cinch: simply decant into a pitcher along with fresh fruit and ice.

SPIRIT OF SOUTH AMERICA Santa Teresa Gran Reserva Venezuela’s 200-year-old Santa Teresa distillery keeps innovation in mind. It makes the world’s first solera-style rum, crafted—like sherry—by gradu- ally blending older rums with younger to create spirits like this blend, aged for up to five years in American oak. It’s silky smooth with caramel-spice notes—and it’s great on the rocks or with your favourite mix. Añejo Rum LCBO 545376, $30.95

RETURN OF A CLASSIC Miller High Life LCBO 560912, 6 pk, $11.50 First brewed in 1903, Miller High Life has been out of the market for a long time. But now it’s back, with the same popular maltiness and yin-yang of sweet and bitter. The beer’s medium body and crisp, smooth aftertaste teams well with not-too-spicy chicken and fish dishes and with pub fare like burgers and tacos.

18  FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2018

WHAT ’ S NEW

SUMMER SIPPER Josh Cellars Chardonnay LCBO 561100, $17.95

Josh Cellars wines have been a big hit with LCBO customers, so it’s likely this elegant Californian Chardonnay will fly off the shelves. Aromas of tropical fruit, citrus and subtle oak followed by juicy peach and lemon oil in the mouth make this a lovely aperitif, but it’s also the perfect foil for pasta tossed with shellfish. MANGO MERENGUE Patrón Citrónge Extra Fine Mango Liqueur LCBO 548263, $33.95

GOOD DOG! Lab Red Vinho Regional Lisboa LCBO 534586, $10.15

Ripe Ataulfo mangoes are the base for this de- licious Mexican liqueur made by Patrón, of te- quila fame. Crystal-clear with the sweet juiciness of mango and hints of citrus, pineapple and peach, it blends happily into cocktails—from Margaritas to Mojitos— and is a wonderful addi- tion to a summer bar. Try it over ice cream, too.

That’s Lab as in Labrador and, in- deed, a handsome canine decorates the label of this great-value Por- tuguese red. With ripe black and red fruit on the nose, and plum, spice and licorice on the palate, the wine matches—appropriately enough—with the foods we love during the dog days of summer: barbecued red meats, tapas, cheese and charcuterie.

20  FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2018

KEEP YOUR COOL WITH THESE HANDY HELPERS FOR SUMMER ENTERTAINING. MUST HAVES BY BRENDA MORRISON • PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

GRATE FIND Whether for yourself or your favourite griller, the Grate Scrape ($19.99, Home Depot) is ideal for keeping barbecue grates clean, without the worry of wire bristles getting in your food. Use after grilling when the grates are still warm. With time, the wood takes the shape of the spacing between grill bars.

FRESH FRUIT Ripe for the picking, water-resistant Ban.do Super Chill Cooler Bags (21½ x 10 inches, $43.95, 416•607•6766, orangefish.ca) are a fun way to tote food and drinks around all summer long. Choose grapefruit, lemon or watermelon to make a delicious statement.

SNACK STATION The best pieces for entertaining offer versatility. We love the smartly designed OMMO Hoop Bowl ($54, 195 × 80 mm, drakegeneralstore.ca), featuring two food trays, along with a container for crudité or bread sticks and a cup for dipping sauce that can be configured several ways. For parties, set each piece out on a table. For more intimate tête-à-têtes, nest the smaller pieces inside the trays.

FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER

SWEET IDEA In charge of bringing dessert? Keep things simple by showing up with this Ice Cream Sundae Kit ($24.50, sullivanbleeker.com, 416•961•3553) and a few pints of ice cream. Kit includes six cups, mini spoons, chocolate fudge sauce and five sweet toppings.

DINNER ’ S READY! From your back deck or the boathouse dock, ringing an outdoor bell is both a novel and civil way to round up the family at mealtime. This hanging “Come-And-Get-It” Bell ($42.50) is from Lee Valley Tools (800•267•8767, leevalley.com).

PEST CONTROL Like a moth to a flame, we’re drawn to the gor- geous Citronella Collection by Skeem Design ($24.95 to $59.95). The lidded candles are available in two sizes and three scents, blend- ing mosquito-repelling citronella oil with sea salt, grapefruit and eucalyptus. Smouldering incense sticks are ideal for burning without an open flame. Pair either with the refillable match tin for an exceptional hostess gift. Avail- able at Bradshaws (Stratford, 844•271•6281, bradshawscanada.com).

ICE PICK For a summer of frosty cold drinks, the NewAir Portable Ice Maker ($219.99, bedbathandbeyond.ca) produces 28 lbs of ice a day. Just fill the reservoir with water and plug it in on your kitchen counter or out on the deck. Choose from five colours to match your décor and three ice sizes to suit your drinks.

Taste the Beauty for Yourself NOW AT THE LCBO

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TREND SPOTTING BY ERIC VELLEND  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR FROM THE WORLD OF FOOD AND DRINK.

Whether you’re making a pitcher of lemonade or shaking up Daiquiris, here’s everything you need to know about serving the coolest drinks this summer.

Let’s Be Clear Have a drink at any fancy cocktail bar in North America, and you’ll notice they have one thing in common: clear ice. Made by removing air bubbles and impurities from the water, clear ice is denser, melts more slowly, and looks stunning in the glass. Unless you’re willing to invest in a Clinebell machine that produces 300-lb blocks of clear ice that is then cut into smaller cubes (see “The Iceman,” next page), making it at home is a dicey proposition. We tried a couple of DIY methods, and they’re either unrealistic for the home mixologist or flat-out don’t work. Your best bet is using special moulds available at kitchen supply stores. But since clear ice is largely about aesthetics, good old cloudy cubes will keep your drinks just as cold.

FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2018 25

TREND SPOTT ING

John “THE ICEMAN” Silva

The general consensus among wine experts is a serving temperature of 45° to 50 ° F (7 ° to 10 ° C) for light whites and 50° to 55 ° F (10 ° to 13 ° C) for full-bodied is ideal. How long does it take to chill a bottle of white wine down to a serving temperature of 50 ° F (10 ° C)? We put three basic methods to the test. Fridge – 2 1 ⁄ 2 hours COOL SCHOOL

How important is ice to a good cocktail? J.S. While you might use ice with a small, variable cube size for mixing, the impressive presentation of a perfect cube can make a big di erence. We cut crystal-clear 2-inch cubes from 300-lb blocks, which are best for cooling a pure spirit such as Scotch, as the reduced ice-surface area minimizes dilution. You sell ice made in Kold-Draft machines, which a lot of the best bars also use. What are some of their advantages? J.S.  Kold-Draft cubes are harder and melt slower than other similar ice, and their perfect cube form can really make your cocktails look beautiful. What are some tips for the home mixologist on ice and entertaining? J.S.  If you leave ice too long in your freezer it can start to absorb flavours of the surrounding food, so try to freeze ice as close to mixing time as possible. If you’re entertaining, make sure you have enough ice! We recommend 250 lbs (114 kg) of ice for every 100 people to do a full bar—chilling beer and white wine, and making mixed drinks—so roughly 2½ lbs (1.13 kg) per person.

Since 1983, The Iceman (the-iceman.com) has been the premiere ice distributor in the GTA. The company makes every- thing from regular cubes to perfect spheres to huge carving blocks of clear ice. Through IceFX (icefx.ca) they create custom ice sculptures for any event. On a hot summer’s day, The Iceman will sell upwards of 80 tons of ice!

Freezer – 45 minutes Ice Bath – 15 minutes

FIRST CRUSH Here’s the skinny on crushed ice cocktails. How: Some fridges have a crushed ice option or you could buy a Lewis bag and mallet. Or try the low-tech method: wrap ice cubes in a clean kitchen towel and bash with a rolling pin.

Why: The biggest advantage of crushed ice is that the speedy dilution allows you to mix drinks right in the glass. And in the heat of summer, the slurry provides maximum chill.

What: There are hundreds of classic crushed ice cocktails to enjoy including juleps, swizzles, brambles and most tiki drinks. Whatever you make, always serve with a straw.

FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER

FUN THINGS HAPPEN WHEN WORDS CONNECT.

At time of purchase, some of the prizes may have already been claimed. Tickets not exactly as shown.

TREND SPOTT ING

COLOURFUL CUBES The latest trend in flavoured ice is to mix liqueurs with water, creating boozy cubes for cocktails. The ratio is simple: 8 oz of water for every 3 oz of liqueur. The liqueur should be under 25% alcohol to freeze properly, and silicone trays are preferable for easy removal. As the cubes melt, the drink slowly changes, so no two sips are alike. Try Aperol ( LCBO 176834, $26.95) cubes in a high- ball of tequila and grapefruit juice, or a single cube of Labbe Francois Cassis ( LCBO 57281, $25.05) in a glass of sparkling wine for a new wave Kir Royale.

shake it off Instead of shaking a cocktail with a bunch of ice cubes, use one 2-inch (5-cm) and two regular-sized cubes. The advantage is texture—it incorporates more air yielding a lighter and creamier drink with a handsome cap of foam. Try this bartender’s trick the next time you mix up some Daiquiris. Since air bubbles dissipate quickly, serve and consume immediately.

Before you dump that big bag of ice into the punch bowl or drink dispenser, we’ve got a better idea. Since small ice cubes rapidly dilute drinks, it doesn’t take long for GO BIG

beverages to lose their… punch. Larger blocks of ice, however, will keep drinks ice cold

while minimizing dilution. All you need is a mixing bowl or food storage container with a

4- to 8-cup (1- to 2-L) capacity, and keep in mind it will take 24 to 48 hours to freeze solid. You could also use a ring-shaped pan and decorate

it with berries and sliced citrus. Armed

with these giant “cubes,” you’ll never serve weak punch again.

28  FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2018

INTRODUCING

THE LIMITED EDITION BOTTLE.

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QUENTINMONGE

AND INSPIRED BY

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FRENCH RIVIERA HOME.

Le Grand Fizz, a refreshing twist on a classic spritz.

Grey Goose ® Vodka, St-Germain ® Elderflower Liqueur

and fresh lime juice. Topped with soda water

for the perfect summer cocktail.

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SEARED AHI TUNA WITH AVOCADO AND LEMON SOY DRESSING Scan the code for this recipe or visit lcbo.recipes/8403

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FOOD  FLAVOURS

VEGGING OUT

BY CHRISTOPHER ST. ONGE  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

WITH SO MUCH FRESH SEASONAL PRODUCE TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF RIGHT NOW, THESE HEARTY AND SATISFYING SANDWICHES PUT VEGETABLES IN THE STARRING ROLE.

Zucchini Slaw Sandwich recipe on page 156

FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2018 33

FLAVOURS  VEGGING OUT

Heirloom Tomato Sandwich

1½ cups (375 mL) finely grated Parmesan cheese Olive oil for frying 1½ lbs (680 g) heirloom tomatoes, preferably a variety of colours 8 slices grilled or toasted sourdough 1 For the spread, roast nuts in a 375°F (190°C) oven for 8minutes or until fragrant and toasted; cool completely. 2 In the bowl of a food processor, combine almonds, oil and salt; work mixture into a fine paste as you would a nut butter, scraping down as necessary. Add garlic and basil; pulse until smooth (if mixture seizes, thin with an addi- tional drizzle of olive oil). Set aside. 3 Arrange tofu slices in a single layer on a paper-towel-lined baking sheet to drain. Place eggs in a small bowl, season generously with salt and pepper; arrange Parmesan in a second bowl. 4 Heat enough olive oil to coat a large skillet overmediumheat.Workingwith 1 slice at a time,

If you’re sure you don’t like tofu, this sandwich serves up a revelation. Parmesan-crusted and fried in olive oil, the tofu adds custardy warmth and flavour to juicy seasonal tomatoes. The fla- vours here are inspired by one of my favourite pestos, Pesto alla Trapanese, a specialty of the town of Trapani on Sicily’s western coast. In it, juicy cherry tomatoes are combined with almonds, basil, garlic, Parmesan and olive oil. ROASTED ALMOND, GARLIC & BASIL SPREAD 1 cup (250 mL) raw almonds ¼ cup (60 mL) extra virgin olive oil, plus extra if necessary ½ tsp (2 mL) salt 1 clove garlic ⅓ cup (80 mL) packed basil leaves 8 slices, ¼ inch thick (5 mm) medium-firm tofu 2 eggs, lightly whisked Salt and freshly ground black pepper

gently coat tofu in egg, allowing excess to drain back into bowl. Coat in Parmesan, gently press- ing to adhere. Fry in batches for 3 minutes per side or until crisp and golden. Set aside. 5 Cut tomatoes into thick slices. Divide almond spread between bread slices, spreading a thin layer on one side of each. Top 4 slices of bread with an equal amount of tomato, season with salt, then top each with 2 slices of tofu. Place remaining 4 slices of toast overtop and cut in half to serve. Serves 4

WHAT TO SERVE L’Orangeraie Rosé Pays d’Oc LCBO 279661, $10.75 Keller Premium Lager LCBO 141242, 500 mL, $2.10

34  FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2018

NEW LOOK SAME CRISP FLAVOUR

Please enjoy responsibly.

CAMPAIGN FINANCED IN ACCORDING TO REGULATION EC n. 1308/13 CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI REGOLAMENTO CE n. 1308/13

FLAVOURS  VEGGING OUT

Ontario eggplant and garlic show up in mar- kets at about the same time. It’s fitting then to make a sandwich of the two. This is a full-on, pungent sandwich with real grown-up flavours. It’s perfection with a glass of rosé or a cold beer. Use good-quality mayonnaise and not anything labelled “dressing.” 2 cloves fresh Ontario garlic, finely chopped 1 cup (250 mL) mayonnaise 1 large eggplant, about 2 lbs (905 g) 1 tsp (5 mL) salt, plus extra for seasoning Olive oil for frying 2 cloves fresh Ontario garlic, thinly sliced 2 tbsp (30 mL) sherry or red wine vinegar ½ tsp (2 mL) sugar Freshly ground black pepper 2 small eggplants, each 6 to 7 oz (170 to 205 g) 4 torpedo-shaped Italian buns, split, lightly toasted 4 cups (1 L) arugula, roughly chopped if large 1 Combine finely chopped garlic and mayon- naise; cover and refrigerate until ready to as- semble the sandwiches. The Best Eggplant Sandwich

2 Chop large eggplant into 1-inch (2.5-cm) pieces. Place in a colander, sprinkle with salt and leave to drain in the sink for 30 minutes. Turn out onto paper towel and pat dry. 3 Heat a depth of ⅛ inch (3 mm) olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Once shim- mering, add sliced garlic and fry until slices are light golden, about 2 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and transfer to a large heat- proof bowl. 4 Return skillet to heat; add chopped eggplant pieces and fry, undisturbed for 5 minutes. Gen- tly stir and continue cooking for an additional 15 to 18 minutes, stirring from time to time, until golden and tender; turn out into bowl with garlic. 5 Meanwhile, combine vinegar and sugar; pour over warm eggplant. Gently toss to combine; season to taste with pepper and additional salt if necessary. Set aside. 6 Thinly slice small eggplants. Return skillet to heat and refresh oil to a depth of ⅛ inch (3 mm).

Once shimmering, add slices in a single layer, working in batches if necessary; fry for 2 to 3 minutes per side or until crisp and golden. Remove to a baking sheet lined with paper towel to drain; season with salt while still warm. 7 To assemble sandwiches, spread a thin layer of the garlic mayonnaise on each of the bun halves; top bottom buns with an equal amount of arugula, then divide the vinegar-dressed eggplant over the greens. Top each with an equal amount of the crispy eggplant rounds and top with remaining bun halves. Serves 4

WHAT TO SERVE Chivite Gran Feudo Rosé LCBO 165845, $11.95 Black Bellows White LCBO 517805, 473 mL, $3.35

36  FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2018

FLAVOURS  VEGGING OUT

Crispy Corn Fritter Sandwich

Few dashes favourite hot sauce 4 soft brioche-style buns, lightly toasted 2 large roasted red peppers cut into strips 2 cups (500 mL) loosely packed basil leaves 1 Stand corn on end and remove the kernels with a large knife; discard cobs. Heat butter and 1 tbsp (15 mL) oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Combine corn and onion in pan, season with salt and pepper and cook for 4 minutes until tender-crisp. Let cool completely. 2 Meanwhile, whisk together buttermilk and egg in a small bowl. In a separate large bowl, whisk together flour, cornstarch and cayenne; season flour mixture with salt and pepper. Once corn mixture is cool, pour buttermilk mixture over flour mixture and stir until just combined; fold in corn mixture. 3 Heat ⅛-inch (3-mm) depth of oil in a large skillet over medium-low heat; drop ⅓ cup (80 mL) batter in a skillet. Use bottom of mea- suring cup to flatten into a 3½-inch (9-cm) patty; repeat with as much batter as will fit

At the heart of this sandwich is a crunchy, tem- pura-ish battered corn patty. The rest—roasted peppers, basil and avocado-mayo—are a tried- and-true combination of the best summer has to offer. If you can find it, buy flavourful yel- low corn instead of the very sweet peaches and cream—you want to taste the corn. CORN FRITTERS 4 ears of corn, husked 1 tbsp (15 mL) butter 1 tbsp (15 mL) canola, grape-seed or vegetable oil, plus extra for shallow frying

in the pan. Fry for 4 minutes per side or until golden and crisp. Repeat with remaining bat- ter. Keep cooked patties warm in a low oven by arranging in a single layer on a rack set over a baking sheet. 4 When ready to serve, mash avocado, mayon- naise and hot sauce together in a small bowl. Spread bottom buns liberally with the avocado- mayo. Arrange 2 patties on each of the bottom buns, top with strips of red peppers, then a handful of basil leaves. Place top buns over and serve while the patties are still warm. Serves 4

½ medium red onion, thinly sliced Salt and freshly ground black pepper ⅓ cup (80 mL) buttermilk 1 egg ¼ cup (60 mL) all-purpose flour ¼ cup (60 mL) cornstarch Pinch cayenne 2 small ripe avocados ¼ cup (60 mL) mayonnaise

WHAT TO SERVE Cono Sur Sparkling Pinot Noir Rosé

LCBO 365205, $14.00 OPI Chardonnay LCBO 406934, $11.35

38  FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2018

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DRINK  SPIRITS

G I N S

O F D I S T I N C T I O N

BY JAMES CHATTO  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE

AS MORE AND MORE GINS HIT LCBO SHELVES, APPRECIATION IS GROWING FOR VARIED STYLES AND FLAVOURS —SO HEREWITH A GUIDE TO WHAT’S ON OFFER AND THE BEST WAY TO SERVE YOUR GIN OF CHOICE.

Why has gin become so spectacularly popular in recent years? Perhaps it has something to do with the love of individualization and respect for ar- tisanal quality that is such a hallmark of the millennial generation. Gin is made by redistilling a neutral spir- it with various plants, herbs, spices and fruits that add their aromas and flavours to the alcohol. Finding a palatable balance of botanicals is trickier than it sounds, but it allows a distiller to make something unique. The recipe could call for the most exotic ingredients in the world—or for something local that expresses terroir. With so many old and new gins to choose from, we thought it might be helpful to gather them into groups determined by flavour.

FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2018 41

SPIRITS  GINS OF DISTINCTION

C LAS S I C

Sweet, grainy gin was first produced in Holland in Renaissance times when juniper was believed to be a way of warding off the plague. Today, London dry gin, perfected in the 1820s, is a more familiar style. The classic profile leads off with spicy, resinous juniper backed with dry citrus peels, earthy orris root, coriander and angelica, amongst other treasures. Vermouth has a similar aromatic pedigree, which is why it combines with gin so happily to make a great Dry Martini. Here are two modern gins from London that proudly maintain the classical balance of flavours, both also splendid in a Gin & Tonic.

PORTOBELLO ROAD GIN LCBO 548339, $44.95 The operators of The Ginstitute in London, England, who created this beguilingly smooth gin, proudly say it “eschews the contemporary trend for ever more esoteric ingredients.” Nine classic botanicals in­ cluding cassia and nutmeg back up a traditional juniper-forward flavour.

KNOW YOUR TONIC Some commercial tonic waters are so heavy, sweet and citrusy they swamp a delicate gin. Look for Q tonic, Fever‑Tree or Fentimans.

SIPSMITH LONDON DRY GIN LCBO 391177, $49.95 This micro-distillery opened in 2009 in London, producing a classic gin in very small batches, using water from the famously pure Lydwell Spring, source of the River Thames. Very smooth and mellow, it offers a touch of lemon tart and orange peel behind the dry juniper facade.

42  FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2018

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4. Add shiitake mushroom slices and sauté for 4-5 minutes. 5. Add enoki mushrooms and cook an additional 1-2 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside. Mayo: 1. Place mayonnaise in a bowl and add wasabi to taste. Mix. Assemble: 1. Place each burger on toasted bun. 2. Slather with some wasabi mayo. 3. Top with mushrooms and garnish with pea shoots.

Yield: 6 burgers Prep: 20 minutes Cook time: 20 minutes

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Ingredients 2 pounds ground Ontario pork 1/4 cup Thai sweet chili sauce 100 grams shiitake mushrooms 150 grams enoki mushrooms 1 tsp. Chinese five-spice blend 2 tsp. oil (avocado or olive) 1/2 cup mayonnaise

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SPIRITS  GINS OF DISTINCTION

Classic gins always balanced juniper with enough dried lemon and orange peel to give a fruity tang. Some gins deliberately emphasize the citrus, often macerating fruit for long periods before distilling it—or even adding fresh fruit to the mash. But it’s not just citrus. Some new Scottish gins use local apples or rowan berries. In Eng- land, I recently encountered gins distilled with quince or rhubarb or even Christmas pudding. Factor in gins that are infused with fruits like sloe or elderberries and the list grows ever longer.

FRU I T Y

MARTIN MILLER’S GIN LCBO 545657, $55.35 One of the early “contem- porary” gins (first made in 1999), this English spirit is finished with Icelandic spring water. Orange zest is delightfully apparent on the nose and palate and so is cucumber, which perfectly suits its very smooth, soft, almost creamy texture. Using whole fresh grape- fruits and limes, not just dried peel, in the distil- lation accounts for the forward citrus notes in this groundbreaking Eng- lish gin. There’s a touch of fruity sweetness too, as well as the classic juniper and angelica flavours— perfect for an Aviation Cocktail (see page 142). TANQUERAY NO. TEN GIN LCBO 600163, $49.95

ADDING BITTERS TO GIN SEEMS LIKE GILDING THE LILY, BUT A DASH CAN ADD ANOTHER DIMENSION TO A FRUITY GIN. +

More unusual citrus fruits like yuzu, bergamot and Meyer lemon bring

a new flavour as a garnish.

44  FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2018

RADLER SEASON IS NOW IN SESSION

INTRODUCING THE SUMMER RADLER SAMPLER PACK FROM ONTARIO’S FIRST CRAFT BREWERY. NOW AVAILABLE AT THE LCBO.

What could be more refreshing than our award-winning Grapefruit Radler? Two more flavours to love, Citrus and new Raspberry Radler, only available in our summer radler sampler pack. A blend of craft lager and real juice, it’s like sunshine in a 6-pack!

SPIRITS  GINS OF DISTINCTION

HERBAL

Juniper “berries” are really the seed cones of the juniper plant and are considered more of a spice than a herb. Gins that are described as herbal need other plants to come forward in the aroma and flavour profile. That’s the case with these three beau- ties, each of which also makes a point of using uniquely local plants in its recipe. The question then is how to garnish a Martini or Gin & Tonic made with a very herbal gin. It’s up to you.

GEORGIAN BAY GIN LCBO 448597, $39.95

Accentuate herby aromas with a rosemary frond garnish—or contrast them with a citrus twist.

Hand-picked wild Georgian Bay juniper is the heart and soul of this fine Ontario gin, backed by a harmonious choir of citrus, pine and cardamom aromas. Dry, bright and light on its feet, it makes a very good Gin & Tonic, garnished with a twist of orange peel. GIN MARE LCBO 481598, $53.45 You can taste the arbequina olives, rosemary, thyme, corian- der seed and basil in this delicate Spanish spirit—like the scent of the Mediterranean garrigue. Notes of orange and lemon blossom also abound, leading to a fragrantly spicy finish. The terroir of Islay finds its way into this gin via 22 local flowers and plants foraged on the Hebri­ dean island that join nine classic gin botanicals in the still. It’s made at the Bruichladdich distillery and shows a beautiful balance of spicy herbal flavours. THE BOTANIST ISLAY DRY GIN LCBO 358192, $50.05

46  FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2018

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SPIRITS  GINS OF DISTINCTION

F LORAL

Some gins have a decidedly floral, almost perfumed profile. I’ve tasted a few that end up reminding me a bit too much of after- shave but the best examples—such as these three and also Bombay Sapphire ( LCBO 316844, $28.95)—are delightful. For those subtle aromatics to shine, the distiller has to give juniper, citrus and the other traditional gin botanicals less of a presence in the spirit’s recipe. Lovers of a classic resinous and spicy gin might not approve.

RENDLE’S ORIGINAL GIN LCBO 398859, $39.95 Chris Edgcumbe-Rendle pro- duces this loving recreation of his father’s personal gin rec­ ipe. Hibiscus gives it a pinkish hue which suits its elegant, lightweight, floral style to a T. It makes a very glamorous Dry Martini, stirred with ice and hardly any vermouth at all. Hendrick’s (whisky distillers William Grant & Sons) add essence of rose petals and essence of cucumber to the finished gin—and their scents hover over it dramatically. It’s a robust, rather heavy, emi- nently likeable spirit; garnish with cucumber. They’ve been making gin at Nolet’s distillery in Schiedam, Holland, since 1691—but not in this modern, dry style. Juni- per takes a back seat in fa­ vour of rose, peach and red berry notes. It’s powerful at 47.6% ABV, which makes it especially useful for cocktails. HENDRICK’S GIN LCBO 637504, $50.00 The Scottish makers of NOLET’S DRY GIN LCBO 549899, $69.95

Garnish floral gin cocktails with berries threaded onto a stick.

48  FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2018

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FOOD  TWISTS

Starting with Style

BY JENNIFER M ac KENZIE  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

IMPRESSIVE-LOOKING YET EASY-TO-MAKE TUILES TAKE A TURN AS SAVOURY APPETIZERS.

Curried Coconut Tuile Cones with Chicken Salad recipe on page 142

Most typically a sweet, thin, crispy, buttery wafer served with dessert, the French tuile (pronounced “tweel” or “twee,” depending on whom you ask), is traditionally made as a circle shaped into a curve to resemble a roof tile. Here we take them to the savoury side and use different moulding techniques to make curved wafers, corkscrew twists, cones and some delicate flat tuiles, too. Add fillings, toppings and garnishes and—voilà!—your appetizer repertoire will be that much more dazzling. The wafer (or simply shredded cheese as in our Parmesan Tuiles) is pliable when hot, then crispy when cooled, so spreading the batter or cheese thinly and evenly, baking the tuiles for just the right amount of time and shaping them when they’re hot does make them a little more challenging to make than a basic cookie. See page 142 for tips to master the technique.

FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2018 51

TWISTS  STARTING WITH STYLE

7 For the herbed yogurt, combine yogurt, mus- tard, tarragon and chives in a small bowl; season to taste with salt and pepper (keeping in mind that the smoked trout is salty). Use immediately or cover and refrigerate for up to 1 day. 8 To serve, arrange tuiles on serving platter(s). Spoon about ½ tsp (2 mL) herbed yogurt on top of each tuile. Break smoked trout into small pieces and place on yogurt then garnish with microgreens. Serve immediately. Makes about 40 TIP  The beet tuile batter is toomoist to bake on parchment paper (it wrinkles and doesn’t bake up crisp) so it is best to seek out a reus- able baking mat, such as a Cookina reusable Parchminum or Baking Sheet or a silicone bak- ingmat. The oiled foil works in a pinch but does make it a little trickier to spread the tuile batter.

lightly spray foil with nonstick cooking spray (see TIP). 2 Combine beet, egg white, butter, flour, salt and pepper in a mini-chopper, small food pro- cessor or in a cup to use an immersion blender. Purée until smooth. Transfer to a bowl and let stand for 15 minutes. 3 For each tuile, spoon½ level tsp (2 mL) batter onto prepared baking sheet and use a palette knife or the back of a spoon to spread into a thin circle about 2¼ inches (5.5 cm) in diameter. Space the tuiles at least ½ inch (1 cm) apart. 4 Bake, 1 sheet at a time, for about 7 to 8 min- utes or until tuiles are bubbling around the edges, look dry and are evenly firm and starting to crisp. 5 Let cool on the baking sheet on a wire rack until firm, then transfer to wire rack to cool completely. 6 Repeat with remaining tuile batter to make about 40 tuiles. If reusing baking sheets, wipe off excess butter with a paper towel and let bak- ing sheet cool between batches (if using oiled foil, leave a thin layer of oil/butter on the foil to coat). Cooled tuiles can be stored in a cookie tin at room temperature for up to 3 days.

BEET TUILES ¼ cup (60 mL) chopped cooked beet, about 1½ oz (45 g), half a small 1 egg white, at room temperature 1 tbsp (15 mL) butter, melted ¼ cup (60 mL) all-purpose flour ⅛ tsp (0.5 mL) salt ⅛ tsp (0.5 mL) freshly ground pepper HERBED YOGURT ½ cup (125 mL) plain Greek yogurt or sour cream 1½ tsp (7 mL) Dijon mustard 1 tsp (5 mL) chopped fresh tarragon or basil 1 tsp (5 mL) chopped fresh chives Salt and freshly ground pepper 5 oz (140 g) trimmed skinned smoked trout, about one 6½ oz (185 g) fillet Microgreens 1 For the tuiles, preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line 2 or more large baking sheets with reus- able nonstick baking mats or line with foil and Bite-size, vibrantly coloured, delicate tuiles are a stunning canvas for herbed yogurt and smoky fish topped with feathery micro-greens. Oven- baked beets, rather than boiled, are best as they are firm and not watery. In place of the trout you could use hot smoked or candied salmon, or thinly sliced smoked or cured salmon.

WHAT TO SERVE Henri Bourgeois Les Baronnes Sancerre

VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 542548, $27.95 Great Lakes Canuck Pale Ale LCBO 242545, 473 mL, $2.80

Smoked Trout & Herbed Yogurt on Beet Tuiles

52  FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2018

TWISTS  STARTING WITH STYLE

Peppery Parmesan Tuiles with Summer Ratatouille

to shape the tuiles). Or skip the mould prepara- tion if you want flat tuiles. 2 Combine Parmesan and pepper in a bowl; lightly toss with your fingers, being careful not to mush the cheese. 3 Place a 4-inch (10-cm) round cookie cutter or ring (such as egg-frying ring) on 1 prepared baking sheet as your template. Spoon in 2 level tbsp (30 mL) Parmigiano mixture and gently pat in an even layer. Remove ring and repeat to make 3 more, spacing them at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart. 4 Bake, 1 sheet at a time, for 5 to 7 minutes or until cheese is bubbling and evenly golden brown (watch carefully to make sure they don’t burn). 5 Let cool on baking sheet for 10 seconds. While still hot and pliable, use a thin spatula to lift each tuile and carefully drape it on the roll- ing pin to curl. To make flat tuiles, simply leave them on the baking sheet to cool and firm up. Let cool until crisp, then carefully transfer to a wire rack to let cool completely and to reuse the mould. Wipe off any fat from mould be- tween uses. 6 Repeat with remaining Parmesan to make 4 more tuiles. Cooled tuiles can be stored

It’s amazing how two simple ingredients bake up into elegant (and scrumptious) lacy tuiles. The quick sauté of Mediterranean vegetables is a perfect bed on which to perch the crisp Parmesan garnish. Get the best Parmigiano- Reggiano and grate it yourself using the fine side of a box grater for the best flavour. Serve on top of a bed of greens for a more substan- tial salad. 1 cup (250 mL) finely shredded Parmigiano- Reggiano, about 2 oz (55 g) ½ tsp (2 mL) coarsely ground black pepper RATATOUILLE 2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil ¼ red onion, finely chopped 2 cups (500 mL) diced eggplant 1 medium zucchini, diced 1 clove garlic, minced Salt and freshly ground pepper ½ sweet red pepper, diced 2 tbsp (30 mL) red wine vinegar 2 medium tomatoes, seeded and diced 1 For the tuiles, preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper or reusable nonstick baking mats. For the clas- sic curved tuile shape, wrap a rolling pin or narrow wine bottle with parchment paper and place on a tea towel (this will be your mould

in a cookie tin at room temperature for up to 5 days. 7 For the ratatouille, heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add onion and sauté for 3 minutes or until starting to soften. Add egg- plant, zucchini, garlic, ½ tsp (2 mL) salt and pepper to taste. Sauté for about 4 minutes or until eggplant is tender. Add red pepper and sauté for 3 minutes or until eggplant is soft and zucchini and sweet pepper are tender. 8 Add vinegar and tomatoes. Remove from heat and gently stir to combine and stir up any bits stuck to pan. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve hot, let cool to room tempera- ture or transfer to a bowl or airtight container, cover and chill for up to 2 days to serve cold. 9 Spoon ratatouille onto serving plates and perch a Parmesan tuile on top. Serves 6 to 8

WHAT TO SERVE Woodhouse Lager LCBO 459537, 473 mL, $3.00 Fontella Chianti DOCG LCBO 230797, $13.95

54  FOOD & DRI NK SUMMER 2018

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