LCBO Food & Drink Summer 2022

TOGETHER AT LAST

Gewürztraminer & Torrontés with Venison Kofta, spiced ground meat kebabs, sometimes skewered, sometimes in patty or meatball form, are a staple in the Middle East and parts of Asia. Spicing and heat level vary, but almost always include ingredients like cumin, coriander, cinnamon and pepper. Kofta are often made using beef or lamb, but venison works just as well, and takes on the exotic flavours while still tasting very much like itself. Game meat like venison would usually call for something rich and red, with elevated alcohol and tannin. Unfortunately, the spice level in this recipe would clash with a lot of those wines, making them taste bitter and astringent when combined. The key here is to find a wine to tame the heat and match the spiciness, with enough depth of flavour to avoid getting lost beside the meat. Gewürztraminer is German for “spice traminer,” as the grape is known for its aromatic and spicy character. Torrontés, a relative to Gewürztraminer has similar aromatics. Both show spicy intensity and tropical fruit notes, which can tame any gaminess in the venison, as well as match the bold seasoning. The residual sweetness in the Gewürz’ also makes it a wonderful foil for the heat from the chilies and cayenne.

SPICY VENISON KOFTAWITH POMEGRANATE MUSTARD P. 184

JESSE’ S PICKS

Susana Balbo Crios Torrontés VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 1834, $14.95 Susana Balbo has been called the “Evita of Wine” and the “Queen of Torrontés.” Her Crios Torrontés (Argentina’s signature grape) is floral and fruity with apple blossom, peach, honey, pear and honeydew melon.

Pierre Sparr Gewürztraminer VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 373373, $18.95 This is a spicy, intense wine, with energetic aromas and flavours. It’s structured and textured, showing brightly articulated rose, lychee, yellow pear, honeydew melon and nutmeg notes.

146 FOOD & DRINK SUMMER 2022