LCBO Food & Drink Summer 2023

BRING GREECE HOME

Tasting Sun and Sea Sommeliers have made Assyrtiko an international star. The indelible image of Greece is of parched islands in a sparkling Aegean, but it’s also one of the most mountainous countries in Europe. Dense pine forests climb the northern peaks; to the south, in the arid Peloponnese, many vineyards are planted at high altitudes. Cool nights mean grapes retain a sturdy acidity and develop intense aromatics, but wines made from the same variety vary according to region. Assyrtiko (uh-SEAR-tee-ko) is a good example. In its homeland on the windswept volcanic island of Santorini, it produces complex wines with racy acidity and a mineral-driven, almost saline intensity. Grown elsewhere, other qualities emerge.

Assyrtiko’s salty minerality and bone dry citrus notes is a perfect foil to crispy fried seafood.

FIVE SHADES OF WHITE

Santo Wines Santorini Assyrtiko VINTAGES 14231, $36.95 (Jul 22)

Lantides Abyss Assyrtiko

Sigalas Assyrtiko/Athiri VINTAGES 33162, $34.95 (Jul 22)

Rouvalis Assyrtiko VINTAGES 33207, $23.95 (Jul 22) High-altitude vineyards down in

Kir Yianni Le Nord Assyrtiko VINTAGES 25707, $19.95 (Jun 24)

VINTAGES 33161, $36.95 (Jul 8) Also from the mountainous Peloponnese, this brooding, full-bodied beauty is oak-aged, adding a rich layer of spice and vanilla over the generous ripe peach flavours.

The archetype: bone-dry, flinty, lemon and peach, smoke and sea breezes, assertive acidity…. Young vines grow curled inside baskets as wind protection.

Another old Aegean variety beloved as an

From the northwest. Flowers and peaches briefly appear but this grape is always more about mountains than orchards—dense, powerful, commanding attention.

the Peloponnese give a wine of crisp acidity and elegance showing hints of orange blossom

aperitif, soft, fruity Athiri tempers Assyrtiko’s tart, salty intensity with white fruit and citrus notes over a persistent minerality.

and lemon zest with impressive length.

FOOD BY JAMES TSE; VINEYARD COURTESY OF KIR-YIANNI WINERY

108 FOOD & DRINK SUMMER 2023