LCBO Food & Drink Summer 2023

FISH SAUCE-CARAMEL WINGS A sticky combination of fish sauce and caramel is a common feature in Vietnamese cooking. It’s easy to love because it makes good sense—the sugar and salt balance each other perfectly. Here, the glaze leans on that foundational sauce but gets there with dark brown sugar instead of bothering carameliz ing white sugar. Tossing the warm wings with basil leaves might seem strange, but their licoricey perfume is aces with the sauce. 5 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 1/2 cup (125 mL) peanut or canola oil 1/2 cup (125 mL) firmly packed dark brown sugar 1/3 cup (80 mL) water 3 tbsp (45 mL) fish sauce 16 whole chicken wings, about 3 lbs (1.36 kg) 2 1/2 tsp (12 mL) salt 1 1/2 tsp (7 mL) coarsely ground black pepper 1 generous bunch basil 1 small jalapeño or serrano chili 1 lime, halved 1. Set a sieve over a small heatproof bowl. Combine garlic and oil in a small pot. Set over medium-low heat. Fry the garlic until light golden, stirring from time to time. Strain the garlic chips from the oil; reserve both. 2. Turn on one side of grill (or arrange char coal grill for indirect heat), close lid and bring to 425°F (218°C). 3. Combine brown sugar, water, fish sauce and 1 tbsp (15 mL) garlic oil (reserve the rest for another use) in a small pot. Bring to a boil and reduce by half; set aside. 4. Toss the chicken wings with the salt and pepper. Roast over indirect heat for 30 to 35 minutes, turning once halfway through, or until cooked through and skin is light golden. Move to direct heat and grill, turning often, for 8 to 10 minutes longer or until crisp and deeply golden. Add wings to a large heatproof bowl; let rest 10 minutes. 5. Add basil leaves, drizzle all with sauce and gently toss. Tip out onto a platter. Lightly crush garlic chips and scatter overtop along with the sliced chili. Squeeze the lime halves overtop and serve. Serves 8 WHAT TO SERVE Flat Rock Riesling VQA VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 43281, $19.95 This aromatic local Riesling merges fruit

SMOKY ’NDUJA CROSTINI If you still haven’t gotten on board the ’nduja train, here’s another chance. This spreadable, spicy pork sausage from Calabria is full of punchy flavour and is easily purchased online where the paste is usually sold in shelf-stable jars. Well-stocked Italian grocers and specialty shops may stock the paste in its original cas ing—either way, it’s the same thing, and they’re both delicious. Get your bread grilled while preheating the barbecue. This is diversion ary cooking to keep everyone satisfied until the mains. 1 tub (500 g) ricotta 1/2 cup + 2 tbsp (125 mL + 30 mL) olive oil, divided

GARLIC BREAD CORN No, not really garlic bread, but totally inspired by it. Garlicky, herb-laden butter is pretty much the perfect partner to sweet, juicy corn. Enclos ing the ears in foil ensures the corn stays juicy and plump and takes on only a whiff of smoky flavour—sometimes it’s not about the char but about taking the whole shebang outside. 2 sticks (1 cup/250 mL) unsalted butter, softened, divided 8 cloves garlic, finely chopped 2 tbsp (30 mL) chopped parsley 1 tbsp (15 mL) chopped thyme 2 tbsp (30 mL) finely sliced chives 2 tsp (10 mL) salt, divided 12 ears corn, shucked 3 oz (85 g) finely grated Parmesan cheese 1. Start by making the garlicky butter. Melt 1/2 stick (4 tbsp/60 mL) butter in a small pot over medium heat. As soon as it begins to sput ter, add garlic, stir and let cook 30 seconds. Remove from heat; scrape into a heatproof bowl and let cool to room temperature. 2. Whisk in 1 stick (1/2 cup/125 mL) butter, parsley, thyme, chives and 1 1/2 tsp (7 mL) salt; set aside. 3. Arrange corn in a 9 x 13-inch (23 x 33-cm) metal baking dish. Dot layers with remaining 1/2 stick (4 tbsp, 60 mL) butter and season with remaining 1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt. Cover with foil and place over medium-hot grill for 15 minutes. Open up, move the bottom cobs to the top and the top to the bottom, re-cover and cook 15 minutes longer or until tender. 4. Serve cobs dressed with garlicky butter and Parmesan. Serves 8 to 10

2 tbsp (30 mL) fresh lemon juice Salt and freshly ground pepper 4 sprigs fresh oregano 4 large slices sourdough, each 1-inch (2.5-cm) thick 1 large clove garlic, halved 3/4 cup (175 mL) ’nduja Flaky salt to finish

1. Combine ricotta, 2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil and lemon juice in a food processor. Work at high speed until very smooth, 1 to 2 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Scrape into a bowl, cover and refrigerate until ready to use, up to 1 day ahead. 2. Add remaining 1/2 cup (125 mL) oil to a small pot. Set over medium heat and, once shim mering, fry oregano sprigs until crisp, about 1 minute. Remove with a slotted spoon to a paper towel–lined bowl. Remove oil from heat and set oregano and oil aside. 3. Preheat grill to high if not already on for another purpose. Grill sourdough 2 to 3 min utes per side or until lightly charred. Cut each slice into two pieces. Rub one side of each piece with the garlic clove. Brush same side liberally with oregano-infused oil. 4. Spread each with a heaping tablespoon of ’nduja. Smear generously with ricotta. Crumble fried oregano leaves overtop, drizzle with any remaining oregano oil and top with flaky sea

salt. Serve warm. Makes 8 crostini

WHAT TO SERVE Mill Street 100th Meridian Organic Amber Lager LCBO 413765, 473 mL, $3.60

WHAT TO SERVE Famille Perrin Réserve Côtes du Rhône VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 363457, $17.95 Côtes du Rhône wines are noted for their juicy flavours and spicy complexity. This medium-­ weight example echoes the spices in the recipe and finds harmony with the dish.

Mill Street’s amber lager shows rich, doughy bread, caramel, citrus and malt notes, which will match the dish’s components. The beer’s carbonation reduces the dish’s weight, provid ing a memorable experience.

flavours, crisp acidity and a dash of sweetness—an ideal foil for the dish’s robust flavours.

140 FOOD & DRINK SUMMER 2023