LCBO Food & Drink Summer 2023

A New Summer Classic from page 35

GOLDEN CORN CRÈME BRÛLÉE Enhanced with fresh turmeric and a pinch of saffron, peak-season corn makes a delicious base for a summery crème brûlée. If you have a powerful, high-speed blender, this is a great time to use it. As an optional final flourish, a corn nut (toasted corn) topping adds deep, roasted flavour and crunchy texture. 2 cups (500 mL) corn kernels (from 2 to 3 ears), cobs reserved 2 1/2 cups (625 mL) heavy cream 1 cup (250 mL) whole milk 1/8 tsp (0.5 mL) crumbled saffron threads 1 small piece fresh turmeric, about 2 inches (5 cm), thinly sliced 4 egg yolks 1/3 cup + 6 tbsp (80 mL + 90 mL) sugar, divided 1/4 tsp (1 mL) salt 3 tbsp (45 mL) chopped salted corn nuts (toasted corn, optional) 1. In a wide pot, combine corn cobs (broken in half), cream, milk, saffron and turmeric. Bring just to a boil over medium-high heat, watching carefully. Remove from heat. Cover and let stand 30 minutes. 2. Preheat oven to 300°F (149°C). 3. Strain cream mixture into a clean pot. Add corn kernels and place over medium-high heat. Bring just to a boil, watching carefully. Reduce heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook until corn is tender, about 4 minutes. Remove from heat and transfer to a blender. Purée corn cream as smoothly as possible then pass through a fine-mesh strainer to remove any solids—you should have about 3 1/3 to 3 2/3 cups (830 to 900 mL). 4. In a large mixing bowl, whisk egg yolks, 1/3 cup (80 mL) sugar and salt until uniform. Add warm corn cream to egg yolks in a slow, steady stream while whisking constantly until fully incorporated. Place six shallow 1/2-cup (125-mL) ramekins in a large roasting pan and divide corn cream between them. Bring a kettle of water to a boil. Place roasting pan in the oven and fill with boiling water to three quarters of the way up the sides of the rame kins. Bake until cream is set but still jiggles in middles, about 40 minutes. 5. Carefully remove pan from oven then carefully transfer ramekins to a cooling rack. Cool to room temperature then cover and refrigerate until completely set, about 3 hours. Custards will keep for up to 3 days in refrigerator.

6. When ready to serve, working one at a time, sprinkle each with 1 tbsp (15 mL) sugar. Use a small blowtorch to caramelize sugar until it is fully golden. Sprinkle with chopped corn nuts, if using. Serve immediately. Serves 6

MICHELADA PREPARADA Ask for a Michelada Preparada anywhere in Mexico and chances are you’ll get a version sporting Clamato juice. Closer to the U.S. border, Americans will ask for a Red Eye, where it’s synonymous with a miche made with tomato juice. Whatever you call it, it’s delicious. And two drinks in one—heavy on the juice and seasonings at first, then as you top it up with the remains of the suds, more beer-­ forward. Customize it by swapping out some of the lime juice for pickled jalapeño brine, or the Worcestershire for soy, or add it all for an OTT version that has your name alone on it. Try this version first! Rim a frozen beer mug with Tajín seasoning. Fill two thirds full with ice. Add 1 oz lime juice, a pinch of Tajín, 1/4 oz each Worcestershire and Mexican hot sauce, preferably Cholula, and 3 oz Clamato or tomato juice; stir. Using a chilled 355-mL can or bottle of Mexican-­ style lager, preferably Ace Hill Mexican Style Lager (LCBO 31452, 6 pk, $14.95) , pour a little beer overtop, stir once more, then fill to the rim with beer. Garnish with a lime wheel. Serve remaining beer in the bottle or can alongside. Makes 1 drink MICHELADA CUBANA A murky brown version known as a Michelada Cubana in some parts of Mexico, and simply a Michelada or Chelada in others, contains neither Clamato nor tomato juice. Instead, it relies on a combination of brown pantry sauces, each bringing a different spin to the same requisite ingredient, sodium. The quanti ties here are a good starting point, but are by no means quintessential—there are as many correct versions as there are miche drinkers. Customize to your liking once you’ve given this balanced version a go. Rim a frozen beer mug with salt. Fill two thirds full with ice. Add 1 1/2 oz lime juice, 1 to 2 dashes Mexican hot sauce and 1/4 oz each Worcester shire, Maggi and soy sauces. Using a chilled 355-mL can or bottle of Mexican lager, pref erably Modelo Especial (LCBO 418590, 6 pk, $18.95 ), pour a little beer overtop, stir, then fill to the rim with beer. Serve remaining beer in the bottle or can alongside. Makes 1 drink

WHAT TO SERVE Segura Viudas Brut Reserva Cava LCBO 216960, $17.95

Cava’s soft, bubbly nature will help cleanse the palate. Notes of bright citrus, honey and aromatic biscuit offset the dessert’s forward flavours, creating a memorable connection.

CORN KERNELS AND STOCK Want to preserve peak-season corn for another day? Remove the kernels, make stock from the cobs, and freeze them together! Now you have a summery shortcut for fall and win ter cooking. A half-batch is the right amount for risotto using 1 cup (250 mL) arborio rice if you start with 1/2 cup (125 mL) white wine at the beginning—use the stock to cook the rice and stir in the kernels at the end. Or use the whole recipe for chowder, adding sautéed onions, celery and potatoes, and adding the kernels at the end along with cream. This recipe is easy to double, triple or even qua druple, depending on your pot situation and freezer space. 12 cups (3 L) water 6 ears corn, kernels removed (about 4 cups) and refrigerated, cobs reserved for stock 1. Combine water, corn cobs, onion, leek, peppercorns and bay leaf in a stockpot and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook until stock is tasty, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Let cool slightly. Strain into a container or large bowl and cool completely. Transfer stock to freezer-safe containers and divide raw corn between them, making sure it is fully submerged in liquid. Also make sure there is enough headspace for mixture to expand into when frozen. Label with date and freeze up to 4 months. Makes about 6 cups stock and 4 cups kernels or 2 x 5-cup (1.25 L) containers 1 onion, unpeeled, quartered 1 leek, dark green part only, thoroughly washed 1 tsp (5 mL) black peppercorns 1 bay leaf

152 FOOD & DRINK SUMMER 2023

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