LCBO Food and Drink Winter 2016

WINTER 2016

WELCOME TO digital

You’ll never have to miss another issue.

Welcome to Food & Drink ’s second digital edition. Since we launched with our Holiday edition, we have heard that many of you are excited to be able to read our publication the way you want it: in print, on the web or on your device. Enjoy it, share it with family and friends and let us know what you think: foodanddrink@lcbo.com

SNEAK PEEK

Last summer, the team was on location shooting our “Blend- ing In” story for this issue. Here’s a quick look at a day “on set”.

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LIVE IT TO BELIEVE IT

SWEET IS IN SEASON.

Baking doesn’t have to be complicated to be impressive. Take these rich, flaky Strawberry Pinwheel Pastries . Made with sweet PC ® Black Label British Columbia Strawberry Fruit Spread and PC ® Butter Puff Pastry, they’re simply scrumptious for dessert, brunch and just about any other time of the day.

Strawberry Pinwheel Pastries

INGREDIENTS

1 pkg (450 g) PC ® Butter Puff Pastry, thawed but cold cup (150 mL) PC ® Black Label British Columbia Strawberry Fruit Spread

1

egg, beaten

Icing: 1 cup (250 mL) icing sugar 5 tsp (25 mL) milk

instructions

1. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. 2. Unroll one sheet of pastry; cut into 3 x 3 grid to make nine equal squares. Transfer to one of prepared baking sheets. On each square, slice a 3/4-inch (2 cm) cut from each corner in toward the centre. Place baking sheet in refrigerator. 3. Repeat with remaining sheet of pastry. Chill both baking sheets for 10 to 15 minutes. 4. Transfer a few pastry squares to work surface, keeping remaining pastry squares in the refrigerator. Place a dollop—about 2 tsp (10 mL)—of fruit spread in centre of each square. Brush corners lightly with egg wash and fold every other tip in toward the centre, pressing together to adhere, to form a pinwheel and almost completely cover fruit spread. Using thin metal spatula, return to baking sheet in refrigerator. Repeat for all pastry squares. Chill for 15 minutes. 5. Place one baking sheet in centre of oven and immediately reduce oven temperature to 350°F (180°C). Bake for 22 to 25 minutes or until pastry is golden and crisp. Remove and let cool

for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, increase oven temperature to 375°F (190°C); place second baking sheet in oven, reduce oven temperature to 350°F (180°C) and bake in similar fashion.

Find all our recipes at pc.ca/blacklabel

6. Make icing: Stir together sugar and milk until smooth. Drizzle some over each warm pastry. Best served warm.

All trademarks & logos are trademarks of Loblaws Inc. ©2015 Loblaws Inc. All rights reserved.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

FEATURES

48 CHOP SHOP 

By Christopher St. Onge Alongside winter beers, these flavourful on-the-bone meat recipes surpass the standard chop you’ve come to expect— any way you slice them.

54 BLENDING IN

By James Chatto & Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic

Feeling stumped by wine bottles of unnamed blends? Read on as we demystify three New World examples and offer a recipe for each that’s perfect for sharing with friends. By Marilyn Bentz‑Crowley Weekend cooking projects that are easy on labour, but long on time, will fill your home with mouth-watering aromas and pay off big‑time in tastiness. ON THE COVER Fig & Hazelnut-Stuffed Pork Rib Chops, recipe on page 93. Photography by Rob Fiocca

60 WORTH THE WAIT 

60

4  FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2016

DEPARTMENTS

FOOD

ENTERTAINING A WORLD OF PANCAKES By Christopher St. Onge

27

Bored with Plain Jane pancakes? These international favourites—both sweet and savoury—will leave everyone clamouring for more.

BASICS STOCK OPTIONS By Lucy Waverman

33

39

DRINK

Surprise your dinner-party guests with a stylish restaurant trend—lovely clear broths as a first course—plus tips for turning that liquid gold into sensational soups.

TWISTS BEER ON THE FRY  By Lucy Waverman

39

Never mind if you don’t own a deep-fryer—with our expert’s techniques, and three standout recipes that each feature beer in the mix—your new skills are bound to impress.

FLAVOURS DUCK FOR DINNER By Amy Rosen

67

With duck increasingly available in stores, and via Chinese takeout, take a break from rotisserie chicken with three uniquely flavourful ways to serve the bird.

SPIRITS COLD COMFORTS  By Michelle P.E.Hunt & Laura Panter

77

Set these big-batch cocktails in the slow cooker before you head outside for wintry fun, and come back home to scent‑sational warming drinks for all.

TRENDS FLOUR POWER By Deborah Reid

73

For a special brunch or coffee and tea break, serve up superb baked goods made from a variety of wholesome grain flours.

IN EVERY ISSUE

EDITOR’S NOTES

7

67

A SPLASH OF SHERRY The best-value wine on the planet adds depth of flavour and enhances a bowl-licking sauce for steamed mussels. WHAT’S NEW A selection of products from around the world available at the LCBO and Vintages. TRENDSPOTTING Our experts suggest what to Eat, Drink and Try this season. MUST-HAVES Things we love for entertaining and around the house.

9

11

15

20

RECIPE INDEX

95

SOURCE RESOURCE

95

5 QUESTIONS WITH… Julia Graham, owner of The Quirky Carrot in Alexandria, Ont., talks about surviving the culinary winter—and what food she’d dream of on a desert island.

96

FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2016 5

Publication Director & SVP .........Nancy Cardinal Sales, Marketing & Insights

VP Marketing ..................................Kerri Dawson Editor .................................................Jody Dunn Art Director .....................................Karen Lim Senior Editor ...................................James Chatto Food Editor .......................................Lucy Waverman Contributing Editors ....................Charlene Rooke, Kat Tancock Publication Coordinator ............Leslie Virdo Senior Designer .............................Cathy Cicchini Graphic Designer .........................Pat Turbach Production Manager ...................Mark Greene Production Coordinator .............Judy Haverkort Publication Assistant .................Piper MacFadyen Production Assistant ...................Everton Smith Food Stylists ....................................Eshun Mott, Christopher St. Onge Prop Stylists ....................................Catherine MacFadyen, Andrea McCrindle, Lara McGraw Contributors ...................................Julia Aitken, Marilyn Bentz-Crowley,

Cynthia David, Michelle P.E.Hunt, Anna Kohn, Brenda Morrison, Laura Panter, Deborah Reid, Amy Rosen, Christopher St. Onge, Eric Vellend, Tonia Wilson‑Vuksanovic

COMING NEXT ISSUE GREEK HOLIDAY An Easter feast for friends and family SPRING MIXES Three ways to use flavourful cocktail components IRISH RENAISSANCE Ireland’s whiskeys, beers and fabulous new cuisine

Publisher ..........................................Wayne Leek

For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about LCBO products and policy please contact helloLCBO online at hellolcbo.com, or call toll-free 1•800•668•5226 or 416•365•5900. TTY Only: 416•864•6898 or 1•800•361•3291. For advertising in Food & Drink magazine, please contact Keystone Media, 416•224•1500 or e-mail foodanddrink@keystonemedia.ca. All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the LCBO’s advertising agreement. Food & Drink is published six times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Volume 23, Number 3. Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 percent post-consumer fibre. Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs.

THE RETURN OF BRUNCH A marvellous menu for the new season

Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Drink , 55 Lake Shore Boulevard East, Toronto, ON, M5E 1A4 ISSN 1195-5988

WATCH FOR THE S P R I NG I S S UE OF

AVA I LABLE MARCH 1 6

Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all LCBO stores.

PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE. Cette publication est également disponible en français.

EDITOR’S NOTES

Even though predictions are for a milder winter than last year, this time of year is still ideal for indoor projects, and no winter project has a better immediate payo than one that comes out of the kitchen. Comfort foods and warming drinks are still the order of the day and this issue of Food & Drink has plenty of ideas to keep you all warm and cozy inside.    First o , in “Worth the Wait” on page 60, Marilyn Bentz-Crowley pro- poses five weekend projects that are long on time but easy on labour. From a barrel-aged Manhattan that only gets better the longer it ages (up to a week or more) to a classic, chunky Bolognese sauce that is best left to chill for a day or two, these recipes will reward your patience. If you are venturing out for a walk in the woods or a cross-country ski, be sure to have one of the warm cocktails in “Cold Comforts” on page 77 simmering in your slow-cooker when you get home; the flavour will only improve while you are gone, and you’ll be welcomed by its comforting scent.    Curling up with a glass of red wine and a good book (or if you prefer, like me, a binge-worthy TV show) is a favourite winter pastime in Canada. For a change of pace, let James Chatto be your guide in helping to demystify some of the red blends available on LCBO shelves. If you’re used to buying by varietal, “Blending In” on page 54

demonstrates how blends can be greater than the sum of their parts— and definitely worth a try—while Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic proposes a choice of oxtail stew, beef tenderloin or pizza to savour alongside the wine once you finish your book (or the last episode).    Weekends spent indoors can also be a great opportunity to try some- thing new, whether it be an ingredient, a technique or a trend. Consider swapping out duck for chicken in any of the three unique recipes starting on page 67—including a deliciously decadent lasagna for two. Or give multi-grain flours a try in your winter baking, as in “Flour Power” on page 73. Mastering the art of deep-frying is a worthy endeavour, especially when you add beer into the mix: check out page 39 for tips, techniques and recipes. In “Stock Options” on page 33, we bring home the restaurant trend of serving a clear broth before dinner. Be the first in your dinner party group to give it a try!    And finally, don’t forget that each issue of Food & Drink is now available online and as a digital download two weeks after it is released in stores— a great way to store and reference back issues. Visit foodanddrink.ca/fddigital for more information, and be sure to share with family and friends who may have missed this issue in stores, or who

live outside the province.    Enjoy the great indoors!

PORTRAIT BY STACEY BRANDFORD

FOOD & DRI NK WINTER

A SPLASH OF SHERRY BY ERIC VELLEND  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

THE PROOF IS IN THE FLAVOUR WHEN YOU COOK WITH SHERRY.

Ranging from bone-dry fino to syrupy Pedro Ximénez, Spanish sherry offers unparalleled di- versity and complexity at very fetching prices. It’s the best-value wine on the planet. The Andalusian tipple is also a delight to cook with—especially dry amontillado and oloroso, which add a depth of flavour to a wide range of savoury dishes without boosting sweetness. This recipe employs these styles of sherry as an aromatic liquid to steam mussels. The nutty, spicy flavours of the fortified wine, combined with floral saf- fron, smoky sausage and sea-salty mussels, create a bread-swiping, bowl-licking sauce of the highest order.   Lustau Los Arcos Amontillado ( LCBO 375097, $15.35) is a red carpet introduction to real Spanish sherry. It’s tangy, savoury, almost meaty, with a roasted almond finish that goes on for minutes. The slightly richer Lustau Oloroso Don Nuño ( LCBO 375105, $14.75) is also superb, offering aromas of pecan pie, layers of flavour and zippy acids. It’s so balanced and polished that it’s easy to forget it contains 20% alcohol. They’re both affordable enough to cook with and excellent in this dish. Sherry may be an acquired taste; we bet this recipe will help you acquire it.

STEAMED MUSSELS WITH SHERRY,

SAFFRON & CHOURIÇO recipe on page 88

FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2016 9

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WHAT’S NEW COPY BY JULIA AITKEN  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI AND MICHAEL MAHOVLICH

A WORLD OF NEW PRODUCTS AT THE LCBO AND VINTAGES.

A FRENCH JEWEL

Perrin Réserve VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 363457, $15.95

France’s southern Rhône region has been blessed in recent years with a string of outstanding vintages. Not surprisingly, this wine is a gem. A juicy blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, it sports ripe red berry and spice notes. A hearty lamb stew or pizza topped with tomatoes and olives are ideal matches.

FRUIT-FORWARD VODKA Cîroc Pineapple LCBO 446823, $49.95 Cîroc’s new flavoured vodka is like fruit salad in a glass. Look for aromas of freshly crushed pineapple and other tropical fruit followed by the taste of juicy pineapple and hints of vanilla. Pour it over ice and top it up with lemon-lime soda or orange juice, or get creative with your favourite vodka cocktails.

Beronia Rioja Tempranillo Elaboración Especial LCBO 426981, $15.95 After enjoying success in Vintages, this Spanish red is now available on the LCBO’s general list. Crafted from 100-percent Tempranillo—unusually for a red—it’s fermented in toasted American oak barrels. The result? A beautifully balanced red with aromas of chocolate and licorice backed up by cherry and oak flavours. Amust with a platter of Spanish charcuterie. ESPECIAL D’ESPAGÑA

FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2016 11

OUT OF AFRICA The 2013 Grinder Pinotage VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 269076, $13.95 Pinotage—bred from Pinot Noir and Cinsault grapes—is South Africa’s signature varietal. This well-priced version has characteristic coffee aromas and flavours, together with notes of cherry and raspberry. It’s meaty and lush and versatile enough to team with smoked pork ribs, spicy Indian food and even dark chocolate.

SCANDINAVIAN STYLE

Brygg Mästarens Swedish Premium Gold LCBO 433508, 500 mL, $2.35 Brewed by one of Sweden’s larg- er independents that’s been in business since 1856, this award- winning pilsner garnered a gold medal at the 2013 International Brewing Awards—considered the Oscars of beer. A trio of hops gives it a flowery aroma and cit- rusy finish. Pour with Thai or Vietnamese food, or sushi.

WELL-SEASONED WHISKEY Jameson Caskmates LCBO 429258, $39.90

If you’re a fan of Jameson Irish whiskey, you’ll love this new addition to the family. It’s triple-distilled—like Jameson’s original blend—but aged in casks seasoned with the dark ale known as stout. The result is a super-smooth spirit with subtle suggestions of hops, cocoa and coffee. The perfect sipper for an icy night.

JAMESON BOTTLE BY ERIK ROTTER • SEE SOURCE RESOURCE

WHAT ’ S NEW

Crazy Beard Mad Ginger Beer LCBO 430041, 473 mL, $2.95 This ginger-spiked lager is the latest in- novation fromOakville, Ont.-based brewer Crazy Beard. You’ll detect aromas of ginger and spice followed by a nice bite of ginger in the mouth. But the ginger flavour isn’t overpowering and is balanced by a hint of sweetness. Serve frosty cold with spicy Buffalo wings. SPICED-UP BREW

Yellow Tail Red Moscato Bubbles LCBO 429951, $13.95 Looking for a Valentine’s treat? Check all the boxes with this sparkler. The rosy red wine combines the sweetness of Moscato with the fun fizz of bubbles, and its fresh berry flavours are a natural with all things chocolate. Serve well chilled, and don’t fret if you have leftovers; the bottle has a reusable stopper. SWEET FOR YOUR SWEET

TOP-FLIGHT RED Raven Deep Dark Red VQA LCBO 438069, $15.95 A ripe blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz launches Raven, a new brand from Peller Estates. It’s fruit- forward with dark, sweet berry notes and gentle tannins. A fine match for a rich, wintry braise of beef short ribs or—on a rare mild day—lamb burgers from the grill.

FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2016 13

Tere are two simple rules for crafting great beer: Brew it small. And brew it big. Small as in small batches, so you can tinker until everything’s perfect. And big as in taste. Not watered down, middle-of-the-road favor – we’re talking beers worth brewing. We’ve put some of our favourites into one cool collection pack; our famous Premium Lager, crisp Lot 9 Pilsner and bold urBock. It’s a lot of big taste stufed into one tiny box.

TREND SPOTTING BY KAT TANCOCK  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

WHAT OUR EXPERTS ARE EATING, DRINKING AND BUYING THIS SEASON.

SWEETER CITRUS At a time of year when options for fresh fruit are “bleak,” recipe developer Deborah Reid takes solace in citrus—specifically, in her new favourite variety, Cara Cara oranges. Plump, thick-skinned, seedless and always sweet, the navel orange hybrid has rose-coloured flesh and a subtle floral flavour and can be substituted for other citrus in recipes. Use instead of lemon in curd or tarts, in a salad with Boston lettuce, avocado and a honey vinaigrette, in sorbet or in cocktails that call for orange juice, such as Mimosas. They also make the perfect eating orange, she adds. “I like them as a snack alongside Medjool dates.”

“I DON’T THINK UNTIL RECENTLY we really thought of flavour in flour,” Deborah says of her multi-grain baking recipes on page 73. “It was the blank canvas that other things flavoured. Now we spend a lot more time thinking, how can I enhance the flavour of this grain?”

FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2016 15

TREND SPOTT ING

SMALL-BATCH VODKA

Publication Coordinator Leslie Virdo first heard about Rheault Distillery’s Loon Vodka ( LCBO 374728, $45.45) from a coworker and was instantly intrigued. “I was excited to hear about a distillery in Northern Ontario,” she says. The artisanal distillery’s quadruple-distilled small-batch vodka is made with locally grown wheat and water from the James Bay lowlands and has received a number of awards,

including a double gold medal at the 2015 China Wine & Spirit Awards. Serve this premium spirit chilled as a digestif after dinner (as you would a grappa) or pour a couple of ounces over ice with a lemon or lime wedge. “I wasn’t one to drink vodka straight up in the past,” Leslie says. “But after tasting Loon, I’m a convert.” “I ALWAYS LOOK FORWARD to working on our winter issue,” Leslie says—and not just because its size is more manageable after the always-thick holiday edi- tion. “It always delivers hearty, warming recipes that help me deal with the cold weather.”

SEE SOURCE RESOURCE

16  FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2016

The mosT magical journey of The year ... is down a rabbiT hole! This asTonishing musical experience will sTay wiTh you forever.

World premiere! featuring 19 original songs.

Adapted for the stage by Peter Hinton | Music by Allen Cole | Based on the book by Lewis Carroll

Kids ticKets only $29 Buy your tickets now!

SHAWFEST.COM | 1.800.511.SHAW april to october Photo illustration for Alice in Wonderland by Emily Cooper. JacKie maxWell artistic director niagara-on-the-laKe, on

TREND SPOTT ING

FRESH-GROUND SPICES Rather than stocking up on pre-ground spices, prop stylist Andrea McCrindle’s preference is to purchase them whole and grind right before cooking. “It’s so satisfying, picking your own spice combination and grinding it in a beautiful mortar and pestle,” she says. “Even the most common spices like nutmeg or caraway seeds are a totally different flavour experience when used whole.” She suggests choosing a mortar that’s on the larger and heavier side, but with a smooth interior so it’s easy to wash, such as those made of ceramic. Use it not just for spices, but also for pesto, curry paste, even flax and chia seeds to add to your breakfast. “The tactile process of grinding makes the dish seem more special.” “WHEN ASSIGNED A STORY, the fun part for me is to choose the characters who will be at the imaginary party and style the story around them,” Andrea says of her work on Food & Drink . “Who is throwing the soirée, what’s their style, and how would they prop it?”

SEE SOURCE RESOURCE

18  FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2016

SWEENEY TODD

MADNESS … MURDER … MEAT PIES? THE BLOODY BRILLIANT MUSICAL BY BROADWAY LEGEND STEPHEN SONDHEIM.

PRODUCTION SPONSOR

Book your tickets now! Music and Lyrics by Stephen Sondheim Book by Hugh Wheeler From an Adaptation by Christopher Bond

Sweeney Todd The Demon Barber of Fleet Street A Musical Thriller

APRIL TO OCTOBER JACKIE MAXWELL ARTISTIC DIRECTOR NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE, ON SHAWFEST.COM | 1.800.511.SHAW

Photo illustration for Sweeney Todd by Emily Cooper.

MUST -HAVES BY BRENDA MORRISON  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

HOME AND KITCHEN WARES THAT MAKE ENTERTAINING AND EVERYDAY TASKS A STYLISH SNAP.

MAKING THE CUT With an ergonomically designed casing to help protect your fingers, the OXO Good Grips Clean-Cut Pizza Wheel ($16.99) features a super-sharp, 4-inch stainless-steel cutting wheel that easily slices even thick-crust and deep-dish pizzas. Comes with a blade guard for safe storage. For retailers: danescoinc.com.

KEEPING TABS If you’re spending a winter afternoon poring over magazines and cookbooks looking for new recipes to try, rather than turn- ing down the corners of individual pages, keep them in mint condition by using these charming Cookbook Page Flag Sets ($7.98 for 375 flags/set). Pre- sented in matchbook-style packages, they come in a variety of designs at Town (Toronto, 647•748•8696, townthestore.com).

CANUCK CHIC The ultimate gift for Canadians! This Mountie Thermos ($34, 750 mL) is an official product under licence from the RCMP Foundation. It’s ideal for sipping cocoa at the ice rink, indulging in a hot toddy après-ski, or taking your own coffee to work. Available at Drake General Store in Toronto: 416•538•2222, drakegeneralstore.ca.

COUNTER INTELLIGENCE Fusionbrands has reimagined the dish rack with the new WAVERACK ($39.99), allowing dishes, glasses and cookware to air-dry while eliminating the need for a separate drain tray—ideal for compact storage when not in use. Excess water drains into the ridges without leaking onto the countertop. Available in grey or green. For retailers: danescoinc.com.

PROTECT YOUR ASSETS As functional as they are fashionable, these cosy Felt Trivets (round for $30 and rectangular for $35) from Avena Design will protect your countertop and dinner table from the damage of a hot pan or cas- serole dish—while also adding a hit of bright colour. Designed in Sweden, made in Nepal, and available at Alteriors in Ottawa: alteriors.ca, 613•722•1661.

LET THERE BE LIGHT No host or hostess wants to be unprepared when it’s time to light logs in a fireplace, start a fondue, or set the mood with can- dles. Impress your guests with a refillable Zippo Candle Lighter ($29.95). A unique hostess gift, it comes in four elegant colours, including cham- pagne and candy-apple red. Available at zippo.ca.

HEAT ACTIVATED Eliminating the frustration of tearing apart a slice of toast with hard butter, the SpreadTHAT! II knife ($27) transfers body heat from one’s hand to the blade, actually melting the butter, while the serrated edge creates thin spreadable ribbons. For retailers: 1•888•632•6422.

FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2016 21

THE $17 SOLUTION

The resourceful buyers at Vintages remove the guesswork from your entertaining equation with two delicious red wines whose provenance, quality and character make them superb values at this price. vintages.com/17

Featured products may not be available in all V intages locations. Visit vintages.com for availability and store locations. Prices subject to change.

21913

ADVERTISING FEATURE

BOLD STATEMENT This Shiraz shows off the “take life by the horns” philosophy of its passionate upstart producer, both in its bold flavour and the bang it delivers for your buck.

DON’T HESITATE SHIRAZ 2013 McLaren Vale, South Australia (BolderTM)

Rich and intense with blackberry and vanilla flavours. Great with grilled or roast beef.

FULL-BODIED & SMOOTH 434159 (XD) 750 mL 2

JUST $17 90 points ( tastingpanelmag.com )

CRAFT SHOW An elegant red from an acclaimed trio of Spanish producers whose respect for the land and vines results in the winery doing almost everything by hand. TERRA D’URO FINCA LA RANA TORO 2011 DO Toro, Spain Juicy and approachable with fruit and spice flavours. Pairs well with lamb stew. MEDIUM-BODIED & FRUITY 424135 (D) 750 mL 1 JUST $17 92 points ( erobertparker.com )

ONTARIO SUPERSTARS It’s easy to resolve to make local choices, and our wonderful VQA Ontario wines offer exceptional quality. Choose from our selection of wines and recipes to celebrate local in the new year!

20 BEES CABERNET MERLOT VQA 6395 750 mL $11.95 MEDIUM BODIED & FRUITY D 9 g/L

PELLER ESTATES FAMILY SERIES CHARDONNAYVQA

582825 750 mL $10.95 LIGHT & CRISP D 6 g/L

THIRTY BENCH RIESLING VQA 24133 750 mL $18.95 AROMATIC & FLAVOURFUL D 8 g/L * A Vintages Essential

FETTUCCINE ALLA LINA WITH PORCINI SAUSAGE RAGU Scan the code for this recipe or visit lcbo.recipes/6153

TURKEY BURGERS WITH AVOCADO RELISH Scan the code for this recipe or visit lcbo.recipes/6154

Featured products available at select LCBO stores. Prices subject to change without notice. *VintagesEssentialCollection isalwaysavailable atmanyLCBO locations.Visitvintages.com.

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ster rner Rd W

(90

FOOD  ENTERTAINING

BY CHRISTOPHER ST. ONGE  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA P ancakes A world of

WHO DOESN’T LOVE A PLATE OF PANCAKES AT A WINTER BRUNCH? IF YOU’RE TIRED OF PLAIN JANE VERSIONS, THESE INTERNATIONAL FAVOURITES —BOTH SWEET AND SAVOURY—WILL WAKE UP YOUR TASTE BUDS WITH THEIR DELECTABLE FLAVOURS.

Mexican Hotcakes with Cajeta & Hazelnuts recipe on page 90

FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2016 27

ENTERTAINING  A WORLD OF PANCAKES

Farinata di Ceci Sandwich

5 Pour remaining ⅓ cup (80 mL) olive oil onto sheet. Close oven and once oil is smok- ing, about 3 minutes, slide rack and pan half- way out. Pour batter into pan, coax into cor- ners using a spatula, and gently push both rack and pan back into oven. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes or until deeply golden and crisp. 6 Meanwhile, drain mozzarella if necessary and slice each ball into 6 slices. 7 Using a pizza cutter, cut farinata into 24 squares. Spoon a small amount of warm sauce onto each of the bottom bun halves, divide farinata slices between them and top each with 2 slices of cheese. Top with desired amount of chilies if using. Divide remaining sauce between sandwiches and finish each by topping with remaining bun halves. Makes 6

⅔ cup (150 mL) olive oil, divided 1 tbsp (15 mL) chopped rosemary

A thin, savoury chickpea flour pancake, fari- nata di ceci is thought to be Italian in origin, but it’s beloved in the south of France too, where it’s known as socca . It’s typically baked in a large circular pan in a very hot wood- burning oven, but it’s delicious made in a home oven too. It is imperative that you use a heavy, good-quality baking sheet with rolled edges—thin, lightweight baking sheets tend to buckle with abrupt temperature changes and shouldn’t be used here. TOMATO SAUCE ¼ cup (60 mL) olive oil 2 cloves garlic, peeled 1 can (798 mL) Italian tomatoes, puréed 2 tbsp (30 mL) butter 1 small onion, peeled and quartered 1 tsp (5 mL) salt 1 cup (250 mL) water Freshly ground black pepper to taste FARINATA DI CECI 2½ cups (625 mL) garbanzo (chickpea) flour 1 tbsp (15 mL) salt 2 tsp (10 mL) freshly ground black pepper 3⅓ cups (830 mL) lukewarm water

8 oz (250 g) or 2 balls, buffalo mozzarella 6 soft buns, such as bap or potato rolls, split Preserved Italian chilies in oil (optional) 1 To make the tomato sauce, heat oil in a saucepan over medium-low. Add garlic and cook for 6 to 8 minutes, turning from time to time, until golden and soft. Remove and mash to a paste with a fork. 2 Add puréed tomatoes to pot; take note of the volume and thickness of tomato. Stir in garlic mash, butter, onion, salt and water. Bring to a simmer and cook for 30 to 35 min- utes or until reduced by 1 cup (250 mL) and sauce is roughly equal in volume and thick- ness to the puréed tomatoes. Remove and discard onion; season to taste with pepper. Cover and keep sauce warm while preparing the Farinata di Ceci. 3 In a medium bowl whisk together garbanzo flour, salt, pepper, water and ⅓ cup (80 mL) ol- ive oil until no lumps remain. Stir in rosemary. 4 Place a 1-inch-deep (2.5-cm) heavy-duty bak- ing sheet, 12 x 17-inch (30 x 43-cm), on middle rack in oven and preheat to 500°F (260°C).

WHAT TO SERVE Rocca Della Macie Chianti Vernaiolo DOCG

LCBO 269589, $14.95 Union Red VQA LCBO 197152, $13.95

28  FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2016

ENTERTAINING  A WORLD OF PANCAKES Keema Chatamari with Momo Achar

5 In a medium bowl, whisk together rice flour, water and remaining ¼ tsp (1 mL) salt. Return nonstick skillet to medium-low, brush a small amount of oil evenly over bottom. Add ⅓ cup (80 mL) rice flour batter to pan and tilt to evenly cover bottom. Distribute roughly one-quarter of the meat mixture in a circular fashion along outer edge, leaving a space in the centre. Cover pan and cook for 10 to 12 minutes or until edges of crepe have curled upward and are crispy. 6 Crack an egg into centre, cover and cook 2½ minutes for a softly set egg with a runny yolk. Slide onto a plate, drizzle with a gener- ous amount of the achar and top with addi- tional cilantro leaves. Repeat with remaining batter (whisk before measuring for each crepe as rice flour settles to bottom of bowl), meat mixture, and eggs to make 3 more. Serves 4

1 green onion, chopped ¾ cup (175 mL) rice flour 1¼ cups (310 mL) cool water 4 eggs Cilantro to garnish

Chatamari , a thin, crisp rice-flour crepe topped with goodies, is otherwise known as Nepali pizza. Here, it gets topped with spiced ground meat, or keema , and an egg. And because we’re eating Nepalese, why not top it with a tradi- tional condiment? Usually served with little dumplings known as momos , the achar is deli- cious over the crepe. MOMO ACHAR 3 plum tomatoes 3 tbsp (45 mL) sesame seeds 1½ tsp (7 mL) cumin seeds 1½ tsp (7 mL) Sichuan peppercorns, carefully picked through to discard black seeds 2 dried red chilies 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 tbsp (15 mL) chopped ginger 1 tsp (5 mL) salt ¼ cup (60 mL) finely chopped cilantro 2 to 3 tbsp (30 to 45 mL) lime juice KEEMA CHATAMARI 1 tbsp (15 mL) peanut or canola oil, plus extra for brushing pan 1 clove garlic, finely chopped 1 tbsp (15 mL) finely chopped ginger 8 oz (250 g) ground beef, chicken or turkey ¾ tsp (4 mL) salt, divided ¼ tsp (1 mL) turmeric 1 tsp (5 mL) ground cumin

1 To make the momo achar, broil the toma- toes until blackened all over, 4 to 6 minutes per side; set aside to cool. 2 Combine the sesame seeds, cumin, Sichuan peppercorns and chilies in a medium pan over medium heat; toast, stirring frequently, just until sesame seeds are light golden. Cool to room temperature and finely grind in a spice or coffee grinder. 3 Remove the skins from the tomatoes and roughly chop. Add them to a blender alongwith the sesame mixture, garlic, ginger and salt; liq- uefy. Stir in cilantro and 2 tbsp (30 mL) lime juice; taste and add as much as 1 tbsp (15 mL) more lime juice if desired. Set achar aside. 4 For the chatamari, heat 1 tbsp (15 mL) oil in an 8-inch (20-cm) nonstick skillet over med­ ium heat. Fry garlic and ginger for 1 minute, or until fragrant; add ground meat and, breaking up from time to time with a fork, cook until no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Stir in ½ tsp (2 mL) salt, the turmeric and cumin. Remove from heat and add green onions. Turn out into a small heatproof bowl and wipe skillet clean.

WHAT TO SERVE Peller Estates Ice Cuvée VQA LCBO 284547, $31.95 Jackson-Triggs Méthode Cuve Close Sparkling VQA LCBO 217679, $14.95

ENTERTAINING  A WORLD OF PANCAKES

Pannukakku with Birch Syrup & Wild Blueberries

1 cup (250 mL) all-purpose flour ½ tsp (2 mL) salt ¼ cup (60 mL) sugar ¼ cup (60 mL) melted butter Icing sugar for dusting

This spectacular oven pancake and its topping are Finnish, through and through. With a cli- mate similar to Canada’s, Finland shares a love of wild blueberries and birch forests. Finland has a long history of using birch sap, and its celebration and use is on the rise there. Blue- berries and birch syrup have a natural affinity for each other, but if you can’t find birch syrup, simply substitute maple syrup. If you want to make this more substantial, serve with a few slices of thick-cut bacon. ¾ cup (175 mL) frozen wild blueberries, divided ¼ cup (60 mL) birch syrup 1 cup (250 mL) milk 4 eggs ½ tsp (2 mL) vanilla extract 2 tsp (10 mL) lemon zest

Pour batter in, sprinkle over remaining ¼ cup (60 mL) blueberries, and carefully transfer to oven. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until puffed and deeply golden. 5 Allow to settle for 5 minutes, dust with icing sugar, and cut into 6 pieces. Serve with blue- berry birch syrup. Serves 6

1 In a small bowl, combine ½ cup (125 mL) frozen blueberries with the birch syrup. Allow to stand while making the pannukakku . 2 Place a 9 x 13-inch (23 x 33-cm) baking dish in the oven and preheat to 425°F (220°C). 3 Meanwhile, whisk together milk, eggs, va- nilla extract and lemon zest. Add flour, salt and sugar, and whisk until no lumps remain. 4 Remove pan from oven, pour in butter and, using a brush, coat bottom and sides of pan.

WHAT TO SERVE Rekorderlig Wild Berries Cider LCBO 413500, 500 mL, $2.85 Black Fly Vodka Blueberry LCBO 238220, 4 pk, $10.95

30  FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2016

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BY LUCY WAVERMAN  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE These days, there’s renewed interest in making broths from scratch. Partly it’s a back‑to‑the‑earth movement and the desire to use pure, versus processed, ingredients— at home and in restaurants. In New York a takeout window called Brodo (1st Avenue at 12th Street) functions like a coffee shop, except customers choose from chef-crafted broths, to be sipped from a paper cup. Patrons have the option of adding extras to the broths, customizing them into sensational soups. Read on to take this stylish restaurant trend into your own kitchen—and be sure to check out our TIPs on page 82 for expert results. O P T I O N S O C K S T FOOD  BASICS

colour. Add a bit of seaweed for nutritional benefits. ➤ Vegetable stock will keep fresh for a week and frozen for a year. ➤ Use in vegan cooking if stock is called for. It works wonderfully in a vegan risotto.

➤ Vegetable stock is an excellent base for vegetarian soups and sauces—much better than water. ➤ Vary the vegetables you use. Add fennel, shallots, leeks, peas, zucchini or mushrooms. ➤ Using Swiss chard in vegetable stock gives it a richer brown

VEGETARIAN SOUP To make a fast nutritious vegetarian soup, boil some tiny pasta and add it to the broth along with some sliv- ered basil leaves and a grating of Parmesan cheese. See p. 82 for “What to Serve.”

VEGE TAB L E STOCK recipe on page 82

FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2016 33

BASICS  STOCK OPTIONS

➤ If you only make one stock make it chicken as it is the most versatile. Chicken stock can be used for light meat sauces, stews and soups, and it easily substitutes for both fish and vegetable stock in recipes. ➤ Kosher chicken makes the most full-flavoured stock as koshering involves salting the chicken, which is similar to brining. Always rinse before using in case there is any lingering salt.

➤ Pull out the legs when they are cooked. Strip the meat and return bones to broth. The meat makes a great chicken sand- wich. When made with a whole chicken or reduced down even more, this becomes chicken soup. Use the same method as for the legs, and return bones and skin to soup. The chicken can be used in chicken pies, salads or other dishes calling for cooked chicken.

GREEK CHICKEN SOUP Dill, garlic and lemon chicken soup is a refreshing change in the dead of winter. Add a couple of tablespoons (30 mL) of dill and 1 clove crushed garlic to about 6 cups (1.5 L) of stock. Bring to boil and drizzle in 2 beaten eggs. Season with salt, pepper and dill. Add 1 tablespoon (15 mL) lemon juice or to taste. Dust with grated Parmesan. See p. 82 for “What to Serve.”

CH I CK EN STOCK recipe on page 82

34  FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2016

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BASICS  STOCK OPTIONS

UMAM I STOCK recipe on page 83

➤ This stock base is indispensable for ramen and much lower in salt than the packaged sauces that often come with ramen noodles. ➤ It will keep fresh for a week and frozen for a year. ➤ Use for exceptional sauces for meat and chicken, or make soup with it. ➤ It is so full of nutrients that it probably will cure a cold. RAMEN SOUP Buy ramen noodles and boil separately. Look for them frozen in Asian stores or use the noodles from an instant noodle package and discard the sauce. Add shiitake mushrooms, green onions, baby bok choy or anything else you like to the broth. Cook for a few minutes, then add the noodles. Finish with a soft-boiled egg. Garnish with pieces of nori partially immersed in the soup. See p. 83 for “What to Serve.”

36  FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2016

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© 2015 Labatt Brewing Company

DRINK  TWISTS

Deep-fry like a pro without owning a deep-fryer. Our expert shares her techniques and offers up three standout recipes—each with beer in them, and served alongside—so you can show off your new skills. BEER ON THE FRY BY LUCY WAVERMAN  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE

BEER DOUGHNUTS recipe on page 86

PRODUCT SHOT BY MICHAEL MAHOVLICH

SIDE LAUNCH WHEAT BEER LCBO 385674, 473 mL, $2.70

Adding a splash of beer to this recipe creates lift and makes a fluffy doughnut. With flavours of coriander and clove, the slight spiciness of the Side Launch wheat beer combined with its citrusy aroma is per- fect for doughnuts.

FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2016 39

TWISTS  BEER ON THE FRY

ALL-PURPOSE BEER BATTER FOR FRIED FISH, CHICKEN AND VEGETABLES

1 Whisk together pale ale, flour, corn- starch, egg and salt in a large bowl. Let sit refrigerated for 15 minutes. Don’t worry about lumps. Add ice cube into batter just before coating ingredients. 2 Season ½ cup (125 mL) flour with salt and pepper, and place on a plate for dredging. Makes about 3 cups (750 mL) batter

It’s very important when you’re deep-frying to make sure the batter is kept very cold so it becomes crisp when cooked. Refrigerate be- fore using and pop an ice cube in just before dipping the ingredients into the batter. See page 87 for Fried Fish, Fried Chicken and Fried Vegetable recipes.

ALL-PURPOSE BEER BATTER 1¼ cups (310 mL) India Pale Ale 1¼ cups (310 mL) all-purpose flour ¼ cup (60 mL) cornstarch 1 egg 1½ tsp (7 mL) sea salt 1 ice cube SEASONED FLOUR ½ cup (125 mL) flour 1 tsp (5 mL) salt Freshly ground pepper

MUSKOKA DETOUR IPA LCBO 404368, 473 mL, $3.10

Any beer you have on hand will work well in a beer batter, but a good India Pale Ale such as Muskoka Detour adds a touch of something special. It has a strong hoppy flavour that works best with simple foods like these Fried

Fish, Chicken and Vegetable recipes.

40  FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2016

PRODUCT SHOT BY BRIAN MACDONALD

THIRST AND HUNGER, MEET YOUR MATCH.

START PAIRING AT BREWSANDBITES.CA

The balance between the acidic Sauerkraut and the sweet malt of Rickard’s Red makes for a perfect pairing, with the light bitterness of the beer contrasting the deep flavours of the braised beef beautifully. BRAISED BRISKET AND KRAUT SANDWICH

Must be legal drinking age. Celebrate responsibly. ©2015, Molson Canada 2005. All Rights Reserved.

TWISTS  BEER ON THE FRY

BRITISH CHIPS WITH BEER AÏOLI DIP

I grew up on British chips—thick and crunchy on the outside and soft-centred. But it was not until I tried the chips at chef Heston Blumenthal’s award-winning restaurant in Berkshire, England, that I found out how to get the same texture. This is an adaption of his recipe. 3 lbs (1.5 kg) Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled Vegetable oil for deep-frying Kosher salt 1 Peel potatoes. Cut into about ¾-inch-wide (2-cm) batons. Soak in cold water for 10 min- utes. Place in a pot of fresh cold salted water and bring to boil. Reduce heat to simmer and cook with lid off 10 to 12 minutes or until fork- tender. Drain and return to pot over turned- off heat to dry with lid off, allowing potatoes to steam off excess moisture. Place potatoes on a rack over a baking sheet and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or until needed. This makes sure they are really dry. 2 Heat oil in a wok or deep fryer to 250°F (120°C) or until a piece of bread turns brown in 1 minute. Add chips and fry until a pale creamy colour, about 4 to 5 minutes. Drain well on paper towels over a rack. Allow to cool in refrigerator. They can be refrigerated until needed. 3 Reheat oil to 375°F (190°C). Return chips in batches, frying until they are brown and crisp, about 2 to 3 minutes. Do not crowd the pan. Remove from oil and drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with kosher salt. Serve with Beer Aïoli Dip (recipe page 87). Serves 4 to 6

PILSNER URqUELL LCBO 255380, 500 mL, $2.65

Pilsner Urquell has a fresh taste with just the right balance of slightly sweet citrus with a touch of bitterness. It has enough body to add depth to the zesty aïoli and

help the other flavours stand up to the thick British Chips.

PRODUCT SHOT BY JODI PUDGE

42  FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2016

TWISTS  BEER ON THE FRY

DEEP-FRYING TIPS

If deep-frying is a technique you fear, these simple rules will make all the difference. If you have a deep fryer, read the man- ufacturer’s instructions for safe use.

➤ Canola, peanut and sunflower oils are best for deep-frying. They have a higher flash- point than other oils so they are less likely to flame. ➤ Use a deep, heavy pot or a wok placed over high heat. You need high sides as oil rises when food is placed in it. A deep frying pan will work for small amounts of food but is not high-sided enough for bigger foods like chicken. Only fill one-third full with oil to allow for expansion when ingredients are added.

➤ Oil should be at least 350°F (180°C). Use a deep-frying thermometer or test for temperature by dropping a cube of bread into the hot oil; when oil is hot enough, the bread will turn brown in 15 seconds. If the tempera- ture is too low the food will absorb the oil and be soggy and greasy. Properly fried food will be crisp and golden-brown.

➤ Fry in small batches to keep the oil at a con- stant temperature.

➤ Slide food into oil with long-handled metal tongs or a spatula to prevent splashing. Use the tongs to turn food while cooking. For larger and more delicate pieces, use two spatulas.

➤ Remove food from oil using a slotted spoon or metal strainer and shake over the pot before draining on paper towels.

➤ Reheat deep-fried food on a rack in the oven at 350°F (180°C) for 5 to 10 minutes.

FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2016 43

Superb Quality. Distinctive Character. Exceptional value. The finely crafted wines in our Essentials Collection make exploring the world of wine easy. View the entire collection of 130 proven favourites, handpicked by our experts. Always available. vintages.com/essentials.

Great with pepper steak CATENA CABERNET SAUVIGNON

Mendoza, Argentina 985002 750 mL Full-bodied & Smooth

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Great with pulled pork KIM CRAWFORD PINOT NOIR Marlborough, New Zealand 626390 750 mL $19.95 Medium-bodied & Fruity Great with roast beef MAJELLA THE MUSICIAN CABERNET/SHIRAZ Coonawarra, South Australia 142018 750 mL $19.95 Full-bodied & Smooth Great with meat lasagna ROCCA DELLE MACÌE CHIANTI CLASSICO DOCG, Tuscany, Italy 741769 750 mL $18.95 Medium-bodied & Fruity

Prices subject to change without notice. Available in Vintages locations at select LCBO stores.

Of course we love the winter! We’re Canadian! We love everything about it, especially staying home, getting warm and cozying up with family and friends, a bottle of wine and something delicious to eat. It’s the season for rich, heartymeals andwe have some great recipes to inspire you. They say meat always tastes better on the bone, and our feature on chops proves the point with tasty and imaginative modern takes on classic favourites. We also have a gathering of slow-cooked dishes of deep and layered flavours that take their sweet time without shackling you to the kitchen stove. And to drink? Come explore the growing trend for NewWorld red blends, some modelled on European wines, others combining grape varieties in a most original way. Raise a glass—and toast the joys of winter! WINTER

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

48 CHOP SHOP | 54 BLENDING IN 60 WORTH THE WAIT

NICKEL BROOK OLD KENTUCKY BASTARD LCBO 368621, 750 mL, $13.95

The salt crust on the seared por­ terhouse contrasts beautifully with the rich sweetness of this barrel- aged stout. The brewer has se­ lected Kentucky bourbon barrels to impart sweet, spicy and vanilla notes, which play well with the caramelization that occurs as the steak is seared in a very hot pan.

SALT-CRUSTED PORTERHOUSE WITH CREAMY GORGONZOLA MUSHROOMS recipe on page 94

48  FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2016

BY CHRISTOPHER ST. ONGE  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

ANY WAY YOU SLICE IT, THESE FIVE FLAVOURFUL MEAT RECIPES COOKED ON THE BONE GO WAY BEYOND STANDARD PORK CHOP FARE—AND SERVING THEM ALONGSIDE WINTER BEERS HEIGHTENS THE EXPERIENCE.

Chops are the antidote to winter’s chill. The first chophouses opened in the 17th century in London, England, where serving individual pieces of meat, on-the-bone and made-to-order, was a novelty. In the intervening years, food fashions have come and gone, but the popular­ ity of modern steak houses proves the enduring appeal of the chop. Cooking and eating meat on the bone feels primal, comforting, and offers a satisfaction that boneless, skinless chicken breasts will never make you feel.    A gorgeous salt-crusted porterhouse served with a luxurious mushroom sauce, and Milanese-

style veal chops with a quick and satisfying rel- ish are both doable weeknight dinners, made in 45 minutes or so. And the same goes for the lamb chops—with a little planning; just make the addictive haydari ahead and have it waiting in the fridge.     Weekends, on the other hand, were made for recipes like our fabulous brined and stuffed pork chops, or long-stewed venison chops in a crazy-delicious old-school sauerbraten , the kind of braise that will have you leaving the house just so you can come back in to smell its intoxicating aroma anew.

BOTTLE SHOTS BY MICHAEL MAHOVLICH

FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2016 49