LCBO Food & Drink Winter 2017

WINTER 2017

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

50

FEATURES

62 BRIGHT LITES By James Chatto

50 WINTER WINING & DINING

By James Chatto & Lucy Waverman Matching winter wine styles with flavourful comfort-food recipes will help brighten up the cold-weather months.

Our experts suggest lower-alcohol wines, cocktails and beers, helping you and your guests pace yourselves during marathon TV awards shows and big-game get-togethers. ON THE COVER Oven-Fried Flank & Cauliflower Steaks with Leek Ash, recipe on page 44. Photography by James Tse

56 CAKE FOR TWO By Joanne Yolles

When it comes to tantalizing Valentine’s Day desserts, good cakes come in small sizes.

33

DEPARTMENTS FOOD

FLAVOURS FRESH ROOTS By Eshun Mott Winter slaws—starring root vegetables—easily enhance any meal in seconds.

33

TRENDS BLACK MAGIC By Lucy Waverman

41

Bring the stylish restaurant trend of black food to your own kitchen—with four starring ingredients, it’s easier than you think.

DRINK

SPIRITS CITRUS IN SEASON By Eric Vellend Unique hot and cold citrusy cocktails satisfy that winter hankering for vitamin C with aplomb.

25

BASICS DO THE TWIST By Amy Rosen

69

No need to miss out on favourite pasta dishes if you’re on carb control; these classics—made with spiralized vegetables rather than noodles—offer just the solution! SEASONAL SOUP’S ON! By Heather Trim International flavours amp up these hearty and healthful bowls of goodness.

BEER THE DARK SIDE OF BEER By Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic

75

81

A guide through three seasonal styles of dark craft beer: what to expect, what to try, how to serve—plus food pairings, too.

IN EVERY ISSUE

75

EDITOR’S NOTES

7

A SPLASH OF WINE Sparkling wine gives classic beurre blanc a zesty makeover. WHAT’S NEW A selection of products from around the world available at the LCBO and VINTAGES. MUST-HAVES Things we love for entertaining and around the house. TRENDSPOTTING With Canada’s 150th in sight, a coast-to-coast roundup of local products and beloved Canadiana.

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11

14

17

RECIPE INDEX

99

99 SOURCE RESOURCE 100 FIVE QUESTIONS WITH…

Customers line up for homespun food infused with chef Suzanne Barr’s culinary genius at Toronto’s Saturday Dinette.

FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2017 5

Publication Director & SVP .........Nancy Cardinal Sales, Marketing & Insights

VP Marketing ..................................Kerri Dawson Editor .................................................Jody Dunn Art Director .....................................Karen Lim Senior Editor ...................................James Chatto Food Editor .......................................Lucy Waverman Contributing Editors ....................Charlene Rooke, Kat Tancock

Publication Coordinator ............Leslie Virdo Senior Designer .............................Cathy Cicchini Graphic Designer .........................Pat Turbach Production Manager ...................Mark Greene Production Coordinator .............Judy Haverkort Publication Assistant .................Piper MacFadyen Production Assistant ...................Everton Smith Food Stylists ....................................Eshun Mott, Christopher St. Onge Prop Stylists ....................................Catherine MacFadyen, Andrea McCrindle, Lara McGraw Contributors ...................................Julia Aitken, Stephen Beaumont, Cynthia David, Michelle P.E. Hunt,

COMING NEXT ISSUE PASTAS FOR SPRING Fresh recipes matched with new wines

Anna Kohn, Brenda Morrison, Eshun Mott, Laura Panter, Amy Rosen, Heather Trim, Eric Vellend, Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic, Joanne Yolles

Publisher ..........................................Wayne Leek

THE HOME MIXOLOGIST The tools you need for great cocktails APRIL FOOL! A scrumptious menu of tricks and treats CUBAN FIESTA Dishes and drinks from the island

For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about LCBO products and policy please contact helloLCBO online at hellolcbo.com, or call toll-free 1•800•668•5226 or 416•365•5900. TTY Only: 416•864•6898 or 1•800•361•3291. For advertising in Food & Drink magazine, please contact Keystone Media, 416•224•1500 or e-mail foodanddrink@keystonemedia.ca. All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the LCBO’s advertising agreement. Food & Drink is published six times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Volume 24, Number 3. Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 percent post-consumer fibre. Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs.

Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Drink , 55 Lake Shore Boulevard East, Toronto, ON, M5E 1A4 ISSN 1195-5988

WATCH FOR THE S P R I NG I S S UE OF

AVA I LABLE MARCH 1 5

Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all LCBO stores.

PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE. Cette publication est également disponible en français.

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EDITOR’S NOTES

Entertaining in the winter (save for a few brave souls) is a decid- edly indoor a air. With it getting dark so early, it’s easy to lose track of time and evenings can stretch on as we stay all warm and cozy inside. Whether it be a dinner party, a movie marathon, a football or hockey game or an awards-show get-together, hav- ing lower-alcohol and alcohol-free options on hand for guests is just good hosting.    In “Bright Lites” on page 62, we asked our experts to recommend lower-alcohol wines, beers and cocktails that are ideally suited for longer evenings—definitely worth a try as some are lighter on calories too, helping you keep those New Year’s resolutions! You’ll also want to be sure to eat during the evening and that is where “Winter Wining & Din- ing” on page 50 will come in handy. There you will find three comfort food choices—warming dishes of simmer- ing greatness, ready whenever you are—paired with winter wine styles that are perfect complements.    Speaking of comfort food, “hearty” is the order of the day when it’s cold outside, and there’s plenty of that

on o er in this issue. “Fresh Roots” on page 33 presents new takes on coleslaw that feature root vegetables— perfect to make ahead and stash in the fridge to serve with whatever protein you choose. A bowl of soup is always welcome in winter and our grain-based soups, starting on page 81, are meals in themselves, bursting with international flavours. Pasta is the comfort food craving that has no season, but if you’re trying to eat better, our vegetable twists on classic pasta dishes (page 69) are a step in that direction.    On the drinks side, darker beers feel right at this time of year, but we don’t want you to feel uneasy about trying them. “The Dark Side of Beer” on page 75 introduces us to three dark styles with tips on what to expect and how to serve, plus a recipe created specifically to be o ered alongside each style. On the flip side, fresh cit- rus is in season right now and whether you prefer a hot or cold cocktail, our drinks on page 25 take full advantage of what’s in stores.    So curl up and settle in; enjoy the season and the issue… See you in the spring!

PORTRAIT BY JAMES TSE

IN HONOUR OF CANADA’S 150 TH birthday celebrations this year, we are doing a little flag-waving by calling out the Canadian products that we feature in each issue all throughout 2017. Look for the symbol above on images and in text, and show your pride by supporting these home-grown products! Also, be sure to check out Trendspotting on page 17 for a little taste of Canadiana to kick o the year.

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A SPLASH OF WINE BY JULIA AITKEN  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE

THE PROOF IS IN THE FLAVOUR WHEN YOU COOK WITH SPARKLING WINE.

In this cookie-cutterworld, it’s good to rediscover a sauce that offers almost endless variety. Rich and tangy, beurre blanc (“white butter”) can be customized to complement just about anything, from steak to seafood. The basic method is simple: reduce white wine and vinegar with shallots, then whisk in a cup of butter (did we mention it was rich?). The fun starts when you play with the flavourings (see page 91).     Classic beurre blanc uses Muscadet from the Loire Valley, but substitute a zesty sparkler and the wine’s citrus notes add extra zip. Trapiche Extra Brut Sparkling ( LCBO 262261, $12.95), a dry Argentinean bubbly ideal with seafood, sports fruity pineapple and toasty bread on the palate. Closer to home, Pelee Island Secco VQA ( LCBO 225946, $14.45) is a Prosecco-style sparkler bursting with citrus, toast and fudge—a great match with fish, chicken or vegetables. Fruity applesauce flavours abound in Zonin Prosecco Brut 1821 ( LCBO 277186, $15.05). It’s perfect with dessert, but try it with seafood, fish or chicken, too. Or fix a beurre rouge (recipe on page 91) for lamb or beef with Yellow Tail Red Moscato Bubbles ( LCBO 429951, $13.95). You’ll love its blackcurrant and licorice notes, not to mention the resealable cork.

NOUVEAU BEURRE BLANC recipe on page 91

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Re-think Beef: Not Your Mom’s Pot Roast

Slow-cooker Vietnamese Beef Pot Roast with Asian Slaw

Visit THINK BEEF at eatineatout.ca/rethink-beef to get this, and other UNconventional beef recipes. RE

WHAT’S NEW BY JULIA AITKEN  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

A WORLD OF NEW PRODUCTS AT THE LCBO AND VINTAGES.

AVERSATILE MATCH

An eye-catching label on this rich, complex Spanish red heralds something equally memo- rable inside the bottle. Crafted in northeast Spain using Garnacha grapes from 40-year- old vines, the wine shows mineral and blue- berry notes followed by savoury flavours that go with almost anything. Try it with a char- cuterie platter, hearty pasta, roasted red meat or goat cheese. Honoro Vera Garnacha do Calatayud LCBO 440867, $12.80

BORN OF FIRE & ICE Reyka Small Batch Vodka LCBO 468512, $34.95

BIG BEAUTIFUL BLEND

Cupcake Black Forest Decadent Red LCBO 470088, $14.95

This unique vodka is available again in LCBO stores. Crafted on the volcanic island of Iceland from Arctic spring water filtered through 4,000-year-old lava rock, the super-smooth vodka is worth the wait. As Reyka says, serve over ice so the vodka remembers where it comes from.

The name says it all. This Californian red blend from Cupcake Vineyards is rich, dark and delicious. The marriage of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel, Petite Verdot and Petite Sirah produces deep flavours of blackberry and dark cherry with hints of spice and mocha and a chocolatey mouth feel. Pour with lasagna, barbecue or, yes, black forest cake.

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WHAT ’ S NEW

FOR AWINTER GRILL

Vinessens Sein 2011 VINTAGES 391896, $16.95

Situated in the hills behind Alicante on Spain’s southeast coast, Vinessens is a family-run winery producing wines from local grape Monastrell. This big blend (60 percent Mon- astrell, 40 percent Syrah) is a well-rounded, silky wine. Its flavours of stewed fruit and cocoa and pronounced tannins make it a must with rare steak.

LA BELLE POMME St-Rémy French Apple LCBO 479956, $26.45 The fresh taste of apple never goes out of style, but is particu- larly on trend this winter. Riding the wave, St-Rémy has added a clean, crisp apple-flavoured ad- dition to its renowned brandy family. Unique in the brandy category, St-Rémy French Apple is perfect sipped in a snifter or added to your favourite brandy cocktails.

HOP-HOP-HOORAY Smuttynose Brewing Company Finestkind IPA LCBO 474478, 473 mL, $3.25

If you like a hoppy beer, you’ll love this unfiltered India Pale Ale from New Hampshire craft brewery Smuttynose. Brewed using a selection of American hops, the result is a seriously hoppy, light-bodied and crisp beer with a good balance of citrus coming from Simcoe and Santiam hops and smooth bitter- ness from Amarillo hops.

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IN THE COMFORT ZONE

Gnarly Head Old Vine Zinfandel VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 678698, $17.95

New to VINTAGES ESSENTIALS , this rich, jammy wine is a great match for hearty winter food—braised short ribs and chili come to mind. Old vines from the Lodi region of California give the wine heady blackberry and mocha flavours, with layers of spice and vanilla balanced by French and American toasty oak.

RIESLING RISING EastDell Riesling VQA LCBO 481556, $13.95

Perhaps the most food-friendly of wines, Riesling is intensely aromatic with a refreshing backbone of acidity. This new wine from EastDell, one of the LCBO’s best-known brands, is no exception. Look for flavours of lime, peach and green apple, and team it with grilled shrimp, ceviche, pad Thai, fried chicken…. The list goes on.

EASY APPLETINIS

Cîroc Apple LCBO 481614, $49.95

Known for its premium flavoured vodka, Cîroc’s latest varietal heads to the orchard. Distilled five times for a silky smooth finish, Cîroc Apple shows juicy green apple on the nose and palate. Serve straight up, on the rocks or fix an Appletini by shaking 2 parts Cîroc Apple with 1 part each lemon juice and Simple Syrup (see page 93).

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MUST HAVES BY BRENDA MORRISON • PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI HANDY HOMEWARES FOR SLEEP-INS, CURLING UP BY THE FIRE—AND ALL THE COMFORTS OF HOME.

GRIND FIND Rethinking the classic campfire kettle for stovetop use, Umbra’s Cowboy Co ee Kettle ($100) lets your co ee steep while the grounds settle to the bottom. A little grit in your mug makes for an authentic cowboy co ee experi- ence! Also ideal for making hot chocolate. Available in black and white at the Umbra Store (Toronto, 416•599•0088, umbrashift.com).

REEL WINNER For cinephiles and oenophiles alike, the Goldberg Wine Rack (from $219.99, depending on choice of eight finishes) is made from a repurposed vintage film reel—adding an authentic touch to your decor when hosting movie nights or an awards show party. Available online at htdcanada.ca.

WINTER ESSENTIAL Lugging logs inside for your fireplace or woodstove is easier with a ShelterLogic Log Holder with Canvas Carrier ($25.97, homedepot.ca). The carrier helps keep bits of kindling o your clothes and hooks smartly onto the metal frame, keeping logs neatly arranged and lifted o the floor.

FOOD & DRI NK WINTER

TAKE YOUR PICK! Here’s an en-“deer”-ing way to store and present toothpicks! Turn upside down and a single tooth- pick comes out through a hole in the dome, helping to keep the others clean and sanitary. The Qualy Deer Meadow toothpick holder ($14.95) is available at Rolo (Toronto, 877•765•6438, rolostore.com).

LIGHT SHOW Miniature LED lights illuminate the glass bulb of these mini lamps ($21.50 each)—it’s like there’s a tiny constellation of stars inside! Battery-powered, they’re especially practical during power outages. Plus, the bulbs stay cool to the touch, making them safe to handle and move around. Available with a black, silver or copper base. For retailers, visit torretagus.ca.

FOREST FRAGRANCES Even if you’re hibernating inside, you can imagine yourself taking a walk in the woods with an Alpine Candle ($28.95) from Paddywax, made from soy wax hand-poured into enam- elled tin cups. Choose from six winter-woods-inspired scents. Available at Outer Layer

(Toronto, 416•869•9889, outerlayer.com).

TRAY CONVENIENT Designed for everything from romantic breakfasts in bed to late-night snacking in front of the TV, the Sagaform Oval Oak bed tray ($135) is super-versatile. The collapsible metal legs allow for compact storage. Available at Bergo Designs (Toronto, 416•861•1821, bergo.ca).

BREW THE CHANGE YOU WANT TO SEE IN THE WORLD

Our philosophy is all about positive change. Artisan roasted in small batches, our coffee is sustainably grown and ethically sourced. A portion of sales supports the Water Wise Coffee ™ initiative, committed to improving the lives, ecology and economies at origin that address water related issues. Look for our RealCup ® single serve capsules in your local grocery store. Because even the smallest change can make a world of difference.

One Love • Buffalo Soldier • Get Up Stand Up • Lively Up! • Mystic Morning

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Marley Coffee ® and RealCup ® brands have no affiliation with Keurig Green Mountain Inc., Keurig ® and K-Cup ® are registered trademarks of Keurig Green Mountain Inc. Marley Coffee ® and logos are trademarks of Fifty-Six Hope Road Music Limited and are used under license.

TREND SPOTTING BY ERIC VELLEND  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR FROM THE WORLD OF FOOD AND DRINK.

We’re getting a head start on Canada’s 150th birthday with a coast-to-coast round-up of local products and beloved Canadiana. There is a lot more to this country than hockey pucks and poutine!

Red is Best  To celebrate Canada’s sesquicentennial, Hudson’s Bay is waving the flag proudly for the eighth edition of the store’s iconic red mittens. The simple yet bold design features embroidered maple leaves, folded cuffs and a fleece lining. These toasty mitts are the perfect accessory for the Canadian pastime of winter grilling, and the vibrant colour will make them hard to misplace. As it has done since 2009, The Bay will donate a significant portion ($3.90) from each pair to the Canadian Olympic Foundation. $15, thebay.com

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THE WOOD LIFE

Lance Herriott’s tableware and kitchenware is a gorgeous reminder that Canada is essentially one giant forest. With a sharp eye and his trusty chain saw, Lance has been sal- vaging wood around his home in Victoria, B.C., since the early ’70s. When his daughter, Nikole, moved to Toronto, he began sending her spoons painstakingly carved from the choicest pieces—a single spoon takes upwards of 14 hours. Combining form, function and artistry, these gifts were so special, Nikole convinced her father to share them with others who would appreciate such fine craftsmanship. Herriott Grace, an online shop of artisan kitchenware, was born, with Nikole handling the business end. Now retired from his day job, Lance has expanded into rolling pins, small dishes, bowls, serving boards and mortar-and-pestle sets. $45 to $570, herriottgrace.com h .c h .c

the great canadian snack-o

of all caps and language saltier than Hickory Sticks. Some were angered to see their favourites ranked so low: “WAGONWHEELS ARE ELITE LEVEL FIGHT ME”. Others pointed out what they thought were glaring omis- sions: “What about Old Dutch ketchup chips? WAY BETTER than the Lay [sic] ones.” To keep the debate going, host your own Canadian snack-o and post the results on social media. Just remember to duck once you click Share.

BuzzFeed’s tongue-in-cheek, multi-tiered “Definitive Guide to Canadian Snacks” (twitter. com/BuzzFeedCanada/ status/743541073176322048) put President’s Choice The Decadent chocolate chip cookies, Co ee Crisp and Ru es All Dressed potato chips in the top slot. At the bottom in the “garbage tier” were Crispy Crunch and Wagon Wheels. The conten- tious list stirred Canadians into a frenzy, and they vented on the internet using plenty

Craft darling Beau’s Lug-Tread is the o cial beer of Ottawa 2017, the year- long celebration of Canada’s 150th birthday in the nation’s capital. The crisp golden ale has been the Vankleek Hill brewer’s flagship beer since it opened in 2006, and it’s won more awards than Sidney Crosby. Join the festivities from home and raise a glass of this organic brew to Canada. Beau’s Lug-Tread Lagered Ale LCBO 169334, 4 pk, $16.35 BREW NORTH

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TREND SPOTT ING

CANUCK SHOP Did you know these three ingredients are proudly grown and harvested in Canada? Time to get cooking!

Stacked Caesars Since it was invented in 1969 by Calgary restaurateur Walter Chell, the Bloody Caesar has become Canada’s unofficial national cocktail. But when it comes to garnishing a Caesar in 2017, a celery stalk just doesn’t cut it anymore. From coast to coast, bartenders are enlisting the kitchen and defying gravity with edible accoutrements that range from a small snack to dinner for two. On the simple side, Toronto’s Cherry Street Bar-B-Que spears its tamarind-spiked Caesar with a succulent smoked side rib. At the extreme end, the “Caesar madness” at Vancouver’s Score on Davie gives new meaning to over-the-top. Using a com- plex arrangement of skewers, its $60 “checkmate” (below) is crowned with a borderline buffet including fried chicken, a cheeseburger, onions rings and a brown- ie for dessert.

DRIED MORELS Dried morels are prized for their woodsy flavour, chewy texture and ability to absorb butter and cream. While they are mostly consumed in Europe, the bulk of the global crop is picked in the boreal forests of northwestern Canada—the conical fungi are known to rise from the ashes after forest fires. Try these genuinely wild mushrooms in Lucy Waverman’s simple and sublime Chicken with Morels and Sage, recipe at foodanddrink.ca.

SNOWCRAB  Like morels, snow crab is another great Canadian delicacy that is under-appreciated at home. Two- thirds of the world’s catch comes from around the Maritimes, yet the majority is exported to China, Japan and the U.S. Available cooked and frozen at select supermarkets and fishmongers, the sweet, delicate meat is great chilled with lemony mayonnaise, or use a leg as a crustaceous garnish for a next-level Bloody Caesar.

HASKAP BERRIES Haskap is the Japanese name of a winter-hardy shrub that bears fruit that look like elongated blueber- ries. Native to northern Japan, Russia and Canada, the antioxidant- rich fruit tastes like a cross between a blueberry and raspberry. Avail- able through Haskapa in Nova w

Scotia, the juice will add a fruity sweet- ness and vibrant colour to cocktails, and the dried berries are terrific baked into scones. haskapa.com

STACKED CAESAR IMAGE COURTESY OF SCORE ON DAVIE; SNOW CRAB: ISTOCK.COM/EYE-BLINK; HASKAP: WWW.HASKAPA.COM

THE $17 SOLUTION

The resourceful buyers at Vintages remove the guesswork from your entertaining equation with two big reds whose provenance, quality and character make them superb values at this price. vintages.com/17

Featured products may not be available in all V intages locations. Visit vintages.com for availability and store locations. Prices subject to change.

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PASSION PROJECT This ripe, lively red comes from a garagiste winery run by a young couple who handcraft “author wines” – ones that reflect both their own personalities and that of the land. SEIN 2011 DO Alicante, Spain (Vinessens) Round and silky, with aromas of tobacco and dark fruits. Pairs well with beef stew.

Full-bodied and Smooth 391896 (XD) 750 mL 2 JUST $17 92 points (robertparker.com)

NOBLE WORK Grown from vines that originated in Bordeaux and thrive in the cool breezes blowing off San Francisco Bay, this is a complex expression of classic Cabernet Sauvignon. NOBLE VINES 337 CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013 Lodi, California Smoky with dark berry, cranberry, herbs and baking spices. Perfect with pork tenderloin. Full-bodied & Firm 483321 (D) 750 mL 2 JUST $17 90 points (Wine Enthusiast)

ADVERTISING FEATURE

Superb quality. Distinctive character. Exceptional value. The finely crafted wines in our Essentials Collection make exploring the world of wine easy. View the entire collection of 130 proven favourites, handpicked by our experts. Always available. vintages.com/essentials

Generous Tuscan

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Shop online for Vintages Essentials and more at lcbo.com

Great with roast beef MARCHESI DE’ FRESCOBALDI TENUTA DI CASTIGLIONI Tuscany, Italy 145920 750 mL $21.95 Full-bodied & Firm Great with roast pork with mushrooms LOUIS JADOT BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR Burgundy, France 162073 750 mL $22.95 Medium-bodied & Fruity

Crowd-Pleaser

Great with spicy chicken wings GNARLY HEAD OLD VINE ZINFANDEL Lodi, California 678698 750 mL Full-bodied & Smooth Great with meat-lovers pizza KAIKEN MALBEC Mendoza, Argentina 58339 750 mL Full-bodied & Smooth

$17.95

Approachable

Old Vine , New Look

$15.95

Prices subject to change without notice. Available in Vintages locations at select LCBO stores.

DRINK  SPIRITS

Citrus in Season

BY ERIC VELLEND  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE

Everyone craves citrus in winter, and these unique hot and cold cocktails satisfy that hankering with aplomb.

Key Limes Tommy’s Keys recipe on page 91

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SPIRITS  CITRUS IN SEASON

In winter, citrus fruits from Florida, California and around the Mediterranean are like a ray of sunshine in the produce aisle. From tiny kumquats to giant pome- los, the selection goes way beyond the usual suspects and continues to get more varied every year. Whether you want to brighten up cold-weather cooking or add a new twist to your favourite cocktail, these fabulous fruits have got you covered.

BLOOD ORANGES Once considered exotic, blood oranges have become a supermarket staple in winter and early spring. The Moro variety from California has a deep purple flesh that adds a dramatic splash of colour to a salad with shaved fennel and olives, or a sunset-like Mimosa. Keep an eye out for the Tarocco variety from Sicily, which is far less “bloody” but has sweet-sour flesh and complex flavour, making it one of the tastiest oranges on the planet.

MEYER LEMONS Thought to be a cross between a lemon and a mandarin, Meyer lem- ons are sweeter than conventional lemons with a thinner, softer rind that gives off the most intoxicating perfume. Since the whole fruit is edible, it can be sliced paper thin for smoked fish salads or chopped up into a relish paired with roast chicken. It adds a fragrant twist to any lemon-based cocktails, though recipes need to be adjusted to compensate for its sweetness.

KEY LIMES Also known as Mexican limes, key limes are one to two inches in diameter with a thin, fragrant skin and tart, seedy flesh. Sold in green mesh bags, they are more perishable than conventional limes, so use them in a timely fashion. Key limes can be substituted whenever a recipe calls for lime juice, but since they’re generally more acidic, start with less. It is the star of its namesake pie, and it’s wonderful in ceviche or fruit salad.

KUMQUATS Looking like miniature, oval oranges, kumquats have a sweet rind and sour flesh, and can be eaten whole. Look for fruits that are uniformly bright orange, and store them uncov- ered in the fridge, as moisture will make them rot. Sliced thin and seeded, they are deli- cious in hearty winter salads or muddled in a glass for a citrusy Old Fashioned. Poached in sugar syrup, they make a delicious dessert topping or cocktail sweetener.

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SPIRITS  CITRUS IN SEASON

Blood Oranges Bloody Bishop recipe on page 90

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SPIRITS  CITRUS IN SEASON

Meyer Lemons Meyer Collins

The Tom Collins gets an exotic twist with the fragrant juice and zest of Meyer lemons. Briefly shaking the gin, juice and syrup with three ice cubes before straining into the glass is called a “short shake.” It ensures the drink is ice cold, yet won’t dilute it too much since soda is added at the end. 2 oz gin 1 oz strained fresh Meyer lemon juice ¾ oz Meyer Lemon Syrup (recipe p. 90) 3 oz soda water, chilled Meyer lemon wedge 1 Pour gin, Meyer lemon juice and syrup into a cocktail shaker. Add 3 ice cubes. Shake 5 seconds. Strain into a chilled Highball glass filled with ice. Top with soda and lightly stir. Gar- nish with Meyer lemon wedge. Makes 1 drink

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SPIRITS  CITRUS IN SEASON

Kumquats Leap Grog

Rising to popularity in the 18th-century Royal Navy, grog is considered to be one of the oldest cocktails. Rum helped make the stagnant ship wa- ter more palatable, and citrus juice warded off scurvy. Modern grog, like this one, is usually served hot. Here kumquat syrup and lime juice create sweet-sour tension, while a dash of bitters adds a hint of spice. 2 oz amber rum

¾ oz Kumquat Syrup (see p. 91) ½ oz strained fresh lime juice 1 dash Angostura bitters 4 oz boiling water, plus more for warming mug Candied Kumquat (recipe p. 91) on cocktail pick

1 Fill a glass coffee mug with boiling water. Let stand 30 seconds. Dump wa- ter and dry outside of mug. 2 Place rum, kumquat syrup, lime juice and bitters in mug. Pour in boiling wa- ter. Garnish with kumquat slices. Makes 1 drink

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Now you can read each issue, shortly after it’s available in stores, on your desktop or mobile device. Visit foodand drink.ca/fddigital for details. NEVER MISS AN ISSUE AGAIN

Scan this code for more information.

Do I look 25 to you? At the LCBO, we never guess your age. That’s why we checked the ID of over 14.5million people last year. You never know until you ask for ID.

The LCBO never guesses. See if you can. lcbo.com/cardornot

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FOOD  FLAVOURS

FRESH HEARTY, HEALTHY AND SO TASTY, THESE WINTER SLAWS—STARRING ROOT VEGETABLES—EASILY ENHANCE ANY MEAL IN SECONDS. BY ESHUN MOTT  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

FRESH BEET SLAW recipe on page 92

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FLAVOURS  FRESH ROOTS

CHINESE-STYLE POTATO SLAW

2 Heat oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add ginger and sauté, stirring, for 2 to 3 min- utes or until ginger threads are browned and crisp. Use tongs to remove ginger and set aside. Add garlic and chili and sauté for 30 seconds to 1 minute or until fragrant and lightly golden. Pour over potato and toss with tongs to combine. Season with salt to taste. Add cilantro and green onions, and top with crispy ginger. Serves 6

2 tbsp (30 mL) finely chopped garlic 2 tbsp (30 mL) finely chopped fresh red chili (seeded if desired) or to taste Salt to taste ¼ cup (60 mL) chopped fresh cilantro 2 whole green onions cut on the bias into long thin strips 1 Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Fill a large bowl with cold water and a handful of ice cubes. Add peeled, julienned potato to pot and blanch for 3 minutes or until potatoes are tender but still slightly crisp. Working quickly, use a slotted spoon to transfer pota- toes into ice water to stop them from cooking further. Return pot to a boil, add peeled, juli- enned sweet potato and cook about 1½ min- utes or until they are also tender. Drain potato and sweet potato really well and transfer to a serving bowl. Add rice vinegar and soy sauce and toss until combined. Set aside.

This unusual Chinese-style potato slaw is made with potatoes that are blanched then lightly dressed and topped with an infused oil, aromatics and fresh herbs. It is most delicious right after being made, though the potatoes could be blanched and marinated in soy and vinegar ahead of time. The most important thing is to watch the potatoes as they cook. The timing below is based on a ⅛-inch (3‑mm) or slightly longer julienne but, however yours are cut, you want potatoes that are just cooked, with a hint of crispness. Almost reminiscent of noodles, this dish could be great for someone who eats gluten-free. 2 lbs (1 kg) Yukon gold potato, peeled and julienned ¾ lb (375 g) sweet potato, peeled and julienned ¼ cup (60 mL) seasoned rice vinegar

WHAT TO SERVE  Phillips Blue Buck LCBO 420026, 473 mL, $2.80  County Pear Cider LCBO 424093, 500 mL, $6.90

1 tbsp (15 mL) soy sauce ¼ cup (60 mL) canola oil ¼ cup (60 mL) julienned ginger

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2017 Acura MDX Elite shown.

MDX T H E S U V W I T H S U P E R C A R D N A .

T H E N EWLY R E S T Y L E D 2 017 ACUR A MDX .

S TA R T I NG AT $ 5 3, 6 9 0*

acura.ca/MDX

*Prices not applicable in Quebec. MSRP is $53,690 // $65,790 on a new 2017 Acura MDX (YD4H2HJNX) // model shown, a new 2017 Acura MDX Elite (YD4H8HKN). Prices exclude $2,045 freight and PDI, fees, license, insurance, registration, and taxes. Some terms/conditions apply. Models shown for illustration purposes only. Offer is subject to change or cancellation without notice. Dealer may sell for less. Dealer order/trade may be necessary. While quantities last. Visit acura.ca or your Acura dealer for details. © 2016 Acura, a division of Honda Canada Inc.

FLAVOURS  FRESH ROOTS

MOROCCAN SPICED CARROT SLAW

3 Add raisins, dill and mint and toss until just combined. Serves 6

¼ cup (60 mL) fresh lemon juice Salt to taste ½ cup (125 mL) golden raisins 2 tbsp (30 mL) chopped dill 2 tbsp (30 mL) chopped mint

The bright flavour of carrots take well to this Moroccan mixture of spices, and the raisins add a welcome hit of sweet and textural con- trast. This salad gets even better if it sits in the fridge for a few hours but, if you intend to make it ahead of time, add the fresh herbs just before serving. 1 tsp (5 mL) ground cumin

WHAT TO SERVE La Linéa Côtes du Roussillon Villages AOP LCBO 442574, $11.45  Angels Gate Gewürztraminer VQA LCBO 58594, $14.95

1 Place cumin, paprika, cinnamon and cay- enne in a small frying pan over medium heat. Toast for 1 to 2 minutes or until fragrant. Re- move from heat, add olive oil and garlic and stir to combine. 2 Pour spiced oil over carrots, add lemon juice, toss until incorporated, and season with salt to taste.

½ tsp (2 mL) paprika ¼ tsp (1 mL) cinnamon ¼ tsp (1 mL) cayenne ¼ cup (60 mL) olive oil ½ tsp (2 mL) grated garlic 2 lbs (1 kg) carrots, peeled and julienned or shredded

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FLAVOURS  FRESH ROOTS

WALDORF SLAW The flavours of the classic Waldorf salad go for a spin and become a slaw by using celery root instead of celery stalks. Celery root is sold in a range of sizes and often has lots of dirty knobbly bits that need to be trimmed off. If you think you are going to lose a lot to the compost bin make sure you buy slightly more than you need.

½ cup (125 mL) mayonnaise ⅓ cup (80 mL) buttermilk 2 tbsp (30 mL) cider vinegar 2 tbsp (30 mL) lemon juice, divided 1 tbsp (15 mL) sugar ½ tsp (2 mL) prepared horseradish Salt and pepper to taste

1 crisp red apple, cored and julienned 1¾ lbs (875 g) celery root, trimmed, peeled and coarsely grated, to yield about 6 cups (1.5 L) shredded 2 cups (500 mL) shredded radicchio 1 cup (250 mL) seedless red grapes, quartered ¼ cup (60 mL) chopped toasted pecans 1 Combine mayonnaise, buttermilk, cider vin­ egar, 1 tbsp (15 mL) lemon juice, sugar and horseradish in a bowl and whisk to combine. Season with salt and pepper. 2 Toss julienned apple with remaining 1 tbsp (15 mL) lemon juice. Reserve. 3 Place celery root in a serving bowl. Pour over dressing and toss well to combine. Add radicchio, apples, grapes and pecans and toss until just combined. Serves 6

WHAT TO SERVE  KW Craft Cider LCBO 457044, 4 pk, $14.30  Double Trouble Prison Break Pilsner LCBO 337006, 473 mL, $2.95

38  FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2017

COZY UP TO ONLINE SHOPPING

Find a comfortable spot on the sofa and head to LCBO.com. You’ll find loads of shopping inspiration, irresistible recipes, special offers and more. Browse thousands of products and simply click to purchase. It’s that easy!

25664

FOOD  TRENDS

NORI

Nori is a form of dried, toasted seaweed that comes in papery sheets. A key sushi ingredient, it can also be added to soups, noodles and rice bowls or fried to use as a crispy garnish.

black MAGIC

Miso-Roasted Salmon with Nori Chips, Avocado Salad & Charred Chili Noodles recipes on page 98

FOR STYLISH ENTERTAINING, BRING THE RESTAURANT TREND OF BLACK FOOD HOME TO YOUR DISHES; WITH FOUR STARRING INGREDIENTS, IT’S EASIER THAN YOU THINK.

BY LUCY WAVERMAN  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE

FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2017 41

TRENDS  BLACK MAGIC

BLACK GARLIC

Thanks to a slow process of caramelization—not fermenta- tion—black garlic has a rich umami flavour with hints of earthiness and a slight sweetness. Use the cloves anywhere you would use roasted garlic to add depth to dishes.

Scallops with Black Garlic, Aïoli & Black Lentils

2 tsp (10 mL) minced anchovy (about 4 anchovies) ¾ cup (175 mL) grape-seed or olive oil 2 tsp (10 mL) anchovy oil 2 tsp (10 mL) grated lemon zest 1 tsp (5 mL) chili flakes Salt and freshly ground pepper

The anchovy oil in this recipe comes from the tin of anchovies. It boosts the umami taste of the aïoli. Jumbo scallops are the large size, about 10 to the pound. Black lentils are also known as caviar lentils and lentils du puy. Although French in origin, they are now grown in Canada. Black garlic is avail- able at Asian stores. Serve with Charred Shallots (recipe p. 98) to enhance the flavour of the whole dish. LENTILS 4 cups (1 L) water 1 cup (250 mL) black lentils, rinsed in cold water

son with salt and pepper. The aïoli should be thick enough to coat a spoon. Reserve at room temperature until ready to use (up to 4 hours). 3 Place lentils over medium-low heat and stir in butter. Season well with salt and pepper. Heat for about 5 minutes or until hot. 4 Pat each scallop dry and season with salt and pepper. Heat a nonstick skillet over high heat. Add butter and, as it sizzles, add scal- lops. Cook 2 to 3 minutes until nicely seared. Turn scallops over and turn off heat. Let sit for 3 minutes, then remove from skillet. 5 Place a scoop of lentils on serving plates. Top with scallops and spoon aïoli over each scallop. Garnish with Charred Shallots. Serves 4 as a main course, 6 as an appetizer

SCALLOPS 12 jumbo scallops Salt and freshly ground pepper 2 tbsp (30 mL) butter Charred Shallots

½ red onion, thickly sliced 2 cloves garlic, smashed 2 slices lemon 2 tbsp (30 mL) butter Salt and freshly ground pepper BLACK GARLIC AÏOLI 2 egg yolks 2 tbsp (30 mL) chopped black garlic, about 4 cloves 1 tbsp (15 mL) lemon juice 1 tbsp (15 mL) water

1 Combine water, rinsed lentils, onions, gar- lic and lemon slices in a pot over high heat. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low. Cover and simmer for 20 to 25 minutes, stirring half- way through, until lentils are tender but not split. Drain. Discard onion, garlic and lemon. Reserve lentils. 2 For aïoli, whisk egg yolks, black garlic, lemon juice, water and minced anchovy to- gether in a bowl. Slowly drizzle in grape-seed or olive oil while whisking to emulsify. Stir in anchovy oil, lemon zest and chili flakes. Sea-

WHAT TO SERVE Woodwork Chardonnay LCBO 428805, $17.00  Hogtown Ale LCBO 353888, 473 mL, $2.85

42  FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2017

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* MSRP of $25,995 on 2017 Forester 2.5i Base Model. MSRP excludes Freight & PDI of $1,675. Taxes, license, registration and insurance are extra. $0 security deposit. Model shown is 2017 Forester 2.0XT Limited with technology package with an MSRP of $39,495. Dealers may sell for less or may have to order or trade. Vehicle shown solely for purposes of illustration, and may not be equipped exactly as shown. See your local Subaru dealer for complete program details. * See Owner’s Manual for complete details on system operation and limitations. Forester and Subaru are registered trademarks.

TRENDS  BLACK MAGIC

Oven-Fried Flank & Cauliflower Steaks with Leek Ash

LEEK ASH EMULSION 2 soft-boiled eggs 1 tbsp (15 mL) Leek Ash (recipe p. 98) 1 tbsp (15 mL) lemon juice ½ cup (125 mL) melted butter GARNISH Leek Ash

The combination of cauliflower and steak makes for good eating. Vegetable ash, a trend in cooking, first appeared at the famous Noma restaurant in Copenhagen. It is a great way of using up vegetable pieces that you might otherwise throw out. Ash can be made with a variety of vegetables, but leek is my favourite as it works well with meats and vegetables alike. Make sure you score the flank steak on one side so it does not curl in the oven. To cook soft-boiled eggs, cover in cold water and let come to the boil, then boil 2 minutes. It gives them the correct texture for the emul- sion. You can cut the cauliflower into florets and roast them if you prefer. STEAK 2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil 2 tbsp (30 mL) balsamic vinegar

(If you make ahead and refrigerate, return it to room temperature before serving.) 5 Raise ovenheat to 450°F (230°C). Place a bak- ing sheet in the oven and leave for 10 minutes. 6 Place steak on baking sheet and return to oven. Bake for 5 minutes. Flip the steak and bake 5 to 7 minutes longer or until medium- rare. Remove from oven and place on carving board. Let rest for 10 minutes. Reheat cauli- flower in 450°F (230°C) oven for 5 minutes or until heated through. 7 Dust serving plates with Leek Ash. Place acauliflowersteakoneachplateandspoonleek ash emulsion around base of cauliflower. Slice steak thinly against the grain. Lay slices over- top of sauce and cauliflower. Sprinkle with a little Maldon or other finishing salt. Garnish with microgreens and tarragon leaves. Serves 4

Maldon or other finishing salt ¼ cup (60 mL) microgreens 1 tbsp (15 mL) tarragon leaves

1 Combine oil, balsamic, Dijon, garlic, soy and fresh herbs and brush over steak. Marinate for 2 hours on the counter or overnight in the refrigerator. 2 Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). 3 Cut cauliflower in half through the stem. Cut each half in half again to make 4 steaks. Brush with oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast on a parchment-lined baking sheet, turning halfway through, for 30 minutes or until crisp- tender and golden at the edges. Reserve. 4 Blend eggs, leek ash and lemon juice using a stick blender in a high-sided bowl. Slowly drizzle in melted butter. Season with salt and pepper and reserve at room temperature.

1 tbsp (15 mL) Dijon mustard 1 tbsp (15 mL) chopped garlic 1 tbsp (15 mL) soy sauce 1 tbsp (15 mL) fresh herbs of choice (we used tarragon) 1 flank steak, about 1½ lbs (750 g) CAULIFLOWER 1 head cauliflower 2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil Salt and freshly ground pepper

WHAT TO SERVE  Vineland Cabernet Franc VQA LCBO 594127, $14.95 Vignamaggio Monna Lisa Chianti Classico LCBO 378133, $15.65

ASH

Edible ash is made from charred, dried vege­ tables. Use scraps like leek greens or carrot tops to reduce food waste. It has a smoky, slightly bitter flavour that pairs well with rich foods. Sprinkle it over a finished dish for strik­ ing presentation.

44  FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2017

Word gets around.

McManis Cabernet Sauvignon has a smooth elegance that gets people talking… and sharing. No wonder it’s Vintages’ best- selling California Cab under $20.

What do you say?

A V I NTAGE S “ E S S ENT I AL” ALWAYS AVA I LABLE AT THE LCBO

R E P R E S E N T E D I N ON TA R I O BY T H E V I N E • T H E V I N E AG E N CY.CA

P L E A S E E N J OY R E S P ON S I B LY

TRENDS  BLACK MAGIC

This delightful rice pudding ends an Asian- influenced meal wonderfully well. In fact, its inky blackness with the pop of mango colour works after any meal. Black rice is a dynamo of vitamins and minerals and is full of anti- oxidants. It is also slow to digest, making you feel fuller. You can drizzle the pudding with extra coconut milk if desired. If you can’t find coconut sugar, substitute brown sugar. 1½ cups (375 mL) black rice 2½ cups (625 mL) coconut milk 3 cups (750 mL) water ⅓ cup (80 mL) coconut or brown sugar ⅓ cup (80 mL) dried blueberries Pinch salt 1 cup (250 mL) diced mango, Coconut Milk & Diced Mangoes Black Rice Pudding with

BLACK RICE

Legend has it black rice, also known as “forbidden rice,” was once reserved for China’s elite. These days we can all enjoy its nutty flavour and slightly chewy texture. The distinctive purplish black colour comes from high antioxidant levels (think blueberries!).

about 2 small mangoes 2 tsp (10 mL) lime juice ½ tsp (2 mL) chili flakes (optional) GARNISH 8 Thai basil leaves

1 Rinse rice in a sieve then place in medium saucepan with a tight-fitting lid. Add coco- nut milk, water, sugar, dried blueberries and salt. Bring to boil uncovered. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer about 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes or until rice is very tender and has absorbed most of the liquid. 2 Sprinkle mango with lime juice and chili. 3 Spoon rice into serving bowls. Top with mango and garnish with Thai basil leaves. Serves 4

WHAT TO SERVE Hakutsuru Sayuri Nigori Sake VINTAGES 32193, 300 mL, $7.95 Arbor Mist White Pear Pinot Grigio LCBO 260133, $7.95

46  FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2017

Cherish the moments

Bonne Maman Raspberry Jam Hearts

1 jar of Bonne Maman Raspberry Jam or your favorite avour Icing Sugar to dust

Ingredients (serves 8-10) 450g (1lb) Shortcrust pastry 1 egg, beaten

Preparation • Set the oven to 400°F. • Roll the pastry out to about 0.3 cm thick. • Using a heart shaped cutter or with a sharp knife, cut out 16-20 pastry hearts (depending on the cutter size) and lay on baking sheets. On half of the batch cut heart shapes out of the centre for the tops. • Brush the edges with the lightly beaten egg and bake in the oven until it starts to lightly colour. • Spoon the Bonne Maman jam generously over the bottoms and

put back into the oven for another 2-3 minutes. During that time sprinkle the cookie tops with icing sugar and use to top each cookie off.

• Leave to cool and serve.

More recipes at

bonnemaman.ca

The holidays may be over for another year but that doesn’t mean the fun has to stop. We still love to get together on cold winter nights, and there are all sorts of reasons why. It’s great just to sit back with good friends and watch TV—maybe a favourite team in an important game or a big awards cere­ mony like the Oscars. Choosing wines, beers or cocktails with lower-than-usual alcohol is a fine idea for a long evening.     Or perhaps it ’s a more intimate gathering you have in mind—just you and your beloved, celebrating Valentine’s Day. Show how much you really care by baking one of our irresistible Valentine’s cakes. Then again, there’s nothing better than snuggling up with family and a hearty dinner. What wines work best with winter comfort food? We can help you choose. It’s winter; it’s a new year… Let the fun continue! WINTER

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE

50 WINTER WINING & DINING 56 CAKE FOR TWO | 62 BRIGHT LITES

WinterWining &Dining

Three winter wine styles meet their matches in flavourful comfort-food recipes—perfect for staving off the chill of the season.

BY JAMES CHATTO  •  RECIPES BY LUCY WAVERMAN PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE

ONE OF THE EASIEST WAYS to discover a wine you’ll like is to shop according to your favou- rite wine style. Never mind if the names of grapes or regions seem to vanish from your memory when you walk into your local LCBO store, just look for the style descriptions on the shelf tags. Do you pre- fer a “Light & Crisp” white? An “Easy-going & Fruity” rosé? They’ve been identified for you.    Shopping by style can also help you match wine to food. By way of an illustration we asked Lucy Waverman to create three delectable dishes, each one designed to work with a particular wine style. Then we chose a handful of wines—very different wines from all around the world, made from differ- ent grapes—that all shared that style. Bingo! Every match was a winner. We hope you enjoy them, too.

50  FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2017

EGGPLANT PARMESAN recipe on page 96

A lush, rich tomato sauce demands a wine with good acidity, partly to cut through the sauce and partly because tomatoes have their own natural acidity in spades and can humble a wine that fails to compete. These wines all of- fer a medium body nimble enough to refresh the palate and plenty of fruit to stand up to the tomato-eggplant double threat. From Niagara, Malivoire Guilty Men Red VQA ( LCBO 192674, $15.95) is a ripe mélange of five different red varieties with masses going on—cherry with earthy, oaky chocolate notes and a hint of the barnyard. It has the substantial flavour and good length this dish demands.    Valpolicella is a classic choice for a tomato sauce because it has its own fruitiness and a stout backbone of acidity. Sartori Valpolicella Classico ( LCBO 378109, $13.95) is a doozy, with soft tannins and an earthy sophistication under the cherry and pomegranate flavours. To me, that “Classico Superiore” moniker is Italian for “extra intensity.” Aquinas ( LCBO 277657, $18.95, not shown) is a Pinot Noir made from grapes grown in Napa and Sonoma counties. At 14.5% ABV (alcohol by vol- ume) it’s more powerful than a typical Burgundy but that strength lifts the ripe red cherry and rasp- berry fruit flavours and gives the wine a sumptu- ous weight that matches the richness of the dish. RED: medium-bodied & fruity

SEE SOURCE RESOURCE

FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2017 51