LCBO Food & Drink Winter 2018

WINTER 2018

ONTARIO SUPERSTARS A new year calls for a fresh start. Resolve to shop local and enjoy our wide range of superb VQA wines. With more than 370 delicious VQA Ontario wines to choose from, this resolution should be easy to keep.

EASTDELL GAMAY NOIR VQA 214890 750 mL $14.95 LIGHT BODIED & FRUITY XD 2 g/L

PELLER ESTATES FAMILY SERIES CHARDONNAYVQA 582825 750 mL $11.95 LIGHT & CRISP XD 5 g/L

CAVE SPRING ESTATE BOTTLED RIESLINGVQA 286377 750 mL $18.95 AROMATIC & FLAVOURFUL D 9 g/L A Vintages Essential*

PROUDLY CANADIAN

BUTTER RUBBED ROAST CHICKEN WITH ROASTED GARLIC

Scan the code for this recipe or visit lcbo.recipes/8153

CURRY SOUP WITH SPICY CILANTRO COCONUT PESTO

Scan the code for this recipe or visit lcbo.recipes/8154

Featured products available at select LCBO stores. Prices subject to change without notice. *VintagesEssentialsCollection isalways availableatmanyLCBO locations.Visit vintages.com/essentials

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When wine is your job. And your passion. THIS IS VINTAGES

Our Product Consultants have a deep appreciation for wine, and more than anything, love sharing their knowledge of all the wines in Vintages. CHAT WITH A PRODUCT CONSULTANT IN STORE TODAY.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

FEATURES

46 GAMES ON!

By Lucy Waverman & James Chatto Cheer on your favourite athletes with a mouth‑watering South Korean-inspired menu complete with matching cocktails and beers. By Christopher St. Onge For unparalleled flavour rewards this winter, a DIY guide through smoking your own foods—and drinks! The world of wine is always evolving— learn something new, embrace loosened-up rules and focus on carefree enjoyment. ON THE COVER Smoked Ice Cream with Rum Raisin Sauce, recipe on page 89. Photography by James Tse

52 SMOKE SIGNALS

58 THE NEW RULES OF WINE By Charlene Rooke

46

FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2018 5

TABLE OF CONTENTS

DEPARTMENTS

FOOD

TRENDS A TASTE OF TAHINI By Amy Rosen This buzz-worthy ingredient’s rich, layered flavours heighten dishes both sweet and savoury.

29

SEASONAL SUNDAY SUPPERS By Jennifer MacKenzie

35

Tempt your family into turning off their devices by serving up these irresistible, flavourful dishes.

ENTERTAINING FAN FARE By Eric Vellend

65

29

When the crowd comes by for a big game on TV, these tasty prep-ahead treats are sure winners!

BASICS SOURDOUGH 101 By Eshun Mott

77

IN EVERY ISSUE

Scrumptious sourdough is all the rage—and our start-to-finish instructions ensure results that are well worth the effort.

EDITOR’S NOTES

9

A SPLASH OF WHISKY Celebrate Burns Night with Whisky-Cured Salmon on its own or alongside fluffy Scottish Tattie Scones. WHAT’S NEW A selection of products from around the world available at the LCBO and Vintages. MUST-HAVES Things we love for entertaining and around the house. TRENDSPOTTING If you’re missing the outdoor grill, stay inside, grab a spatula and get griddling for equally delicious results.

11

DRINK

SPIRITS WARMING UP TO GIN By Victoria Walsh In warm cocktails, gin’s nuanced flavours come into their own—ideal for cozy winter evenings. WINE IN THE RED By James Chatto Indulge your craving for full-bodied, full-flavoured red wines—without the big price tags!

23

13

16

71

19

RECIPE INDEX

95

KITCHEN ESSENTIALS: RICE Expand your skills or learn something new through cooking methods, information, recipes and tips.

96

6  FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2018

avour WINTER

FLAVOURS

Find new ways to warm up inside St. Lawrence Market.

stlawrencemarket.com

VP Marketing ..................................Kerri Dawson Editor .................................................Jody Dunn Art Directors ...................................Karen Lim, Cathy Cicchini

Senior Editor ...................................James Chatto Food Editor .......................................Lucy Waverman Contributing Editors ....................Charlene Rooke, Kat Tancock Publication Coordinator ............Margot Blais Graphic Designers .........................Wincy Law, Dominique Patafio, Pat Turbach Production Manager ...................Mark Greene Production Coordinator .............Judy Haverkort Publication Assistant .................Piper MacFadyen Production Assistant ...................Everton Smith Food Stylists ....................................Eshun Mott, Christopher St. Onge, Joanne Tsakos Prop Stylists ....................................Catherine MacFadyen, Andrea McCrindle, Lara McGraw, Shelly Shnier Contributors ...................................Julia Aitken, Anna Kohn, Jennifer MacKenzie, Brenda Morrison, Eshun Mott, Amy Rosen, Christopher St. Onge, Eric Vellend, Victoria Walsh

COMING NEXT ISSUE LIGHT—AND LOVELY A delectable lightweight menu for spring

Publisher ..........................................Leslie Virdo Digital Project Management ......Wayne Leek

SPRINGTIME SIPPERS Fresh takes on classic cocktails TASTE TOMORROW Recipes with the latest trending flavours BURGERS AND BEER Give your patties a seasonal spin

For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about LCBO products and policy please contact helloLCBO online at hellolcbo.com, or call toll-free 1•800•668•5226 or 416•365•5900. TTY Only: 416•864•6898 or 1•800•361•3291. For advertising in Food & Drink magazine, please contact Keystone Media, 416•224•1500 or e-mail foodanddrink@keystonemedia.ca. All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the LCBO’s advertising agreement. Food & Drink is published six times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Volume 25, Number 3. Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 percent post-consumer fibre. Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs.

Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Drink , 55 Lake Shore Boulevard East, Toronto, ON, M5E 1A4 ISSN 1195-5988

WATCH FOR THE S P R I NG I S S UE OF

AVA I LABLE MARCH 1 4

Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all LCBO stores.

PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE. Cette publication est également disponible en français.

EDITOR’S NOTES

Once the holidays are over, there is a decidedly slower pace to our remaining winter weekends. The over- whelming desire to stay inside makes them ideal for tackling a project or trying something new, spreading it out over a couple of leisurely days. It also makes staying in your PJs all day much more acceptable because you will have proof of your labours with something to show for it at the end    This issue is full of ideas with just those types of weekend in mind. If you’re keen to be on-trend, how about learning the art of smoking? In Smoke Signals on page 52, Christopher St. Onge presents a soup, a main, two desserts and a cocktail to help get you started. Judging by the number of websites, blogs, Facebook and Instagram posts, sourdough is an ob- session, and one that you can master— check out our “starter to finish” guide on page 77 for expert tips and advice. Prepping any of our Sunday Suppers on page 35 is a rewarding way to spend the day, with everyone pitching in to help and reviving the tradition of technology-free family dinners.    While we’re all enjoying the great indoors, our Canadian athletes are

gearing up for the Winter Olympics. If you’re getting the gang together for a viewing party, our Korean menu on page 46 (complete with cocktails and beer) is the ideal feast to serve, especially if you divide it up and make it a potluck. Of course there are lots of other sports in play at this time of year, from the Super Bowl to Spring Training—with hockey and basketball in between. We’ve got recipes for whatever your viewing pleasure might be in Fan Fare on page 65.    As winter drags on through February, shake o the doldrums by trying something new. If you love gin in the summer, our warm gin cocktails on page 23 are certainly worth a try. Tahini is an ingredient you’ve likely heard and wondered about; sample it in both sweet and savoury recipes starting on page 29. Or consider any of Charlene Rooke’s New Rules of Wine on page 58. They are all about a much more casual, laid-back approach that’s perfect for this time of year.    Whatever project, pastime or experiment you choose, we hope you enjoy the issue and the season. See you in the spring!

PORTRAIT BY JAMES TSE

FOOD & DRI NK WINTER

The Tyrconnell® Single Malt Irish Whiskey 43%-46% Alc./Vol. 2017 ©Kilbeggan Distilling Import Company, Chicago IL

A SPLASH OF WHISKY BY JULIA AITKEN  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

THE PROOF IS IN THE FLAVOUR WHEN YOU COOK WITH MALT WHISKY.

WHISKY- CURED SALMON WITH MUSTARD- LEMON CRÈME FRAÎCHE recipe on page 86

Trust the Scots to know how to brighten up a winter’s evening. On January 25, Scots the world over celebrate Burns Night, the annual homage to Scotland’s most famous poet—and something of a rabble- rouser—Robert Burns.     While haggis (really just a sausage with attitude) is traditional fare at Burns’s birthday bash, Scotland offers less-challenging gustatory pleasures, two of which—malt whisky and salmon—are surprising soulmates. Anglers who know their stuff cite the Spey in northeastern Scotland as one of the world’s best salmon rivers. And some of the most prestigious whisky distilleries hug the banks of the same water course. So, in the true spirit of terroir, we team the pair in a Caledonian take on gravlax, or cured salmon.     Glenfiddich Single Malt 15 Year Old ( LCBO 605972, $80.95) provides the marinade for the salmon, its notes of vanilla and spice echoing the seasonings in the cure. This Speyside malt, with its lighter, honeyed profile, does double duty as the perfect tipple with the salmon. In addition to honey, look for flavours of marzipan-topped fruit cake, sherry and oak. And, as with all Scottish whiskies, do like the Scots and skip the ice—it dulls the whisky’s aromas and flavours—adding just a touch of water to open up the bouquet. Slàinte!

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Re-think Beef: Not your typical roast beef dinner.

For this and other unconventional beef recipes visit ThinkBeef.ca.

Wine 'n Dine Peppercorn Roast Beef

WHAT’S NEW BY JULIA AITKEN  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

A WORLD OF NEW PRODUCTS AT THE LCBO AND VINTAGES.

LEADING THE PACK Lupi Reali Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Organic LCBO 486647, $10.80 The name of this earthy Italian red recognizes the park system in the Abruzzo region that seeks to reintroduce wolves ( lupi in Italian) to the area. An organic wine suitable for vegans, it’s food-friendly too. Layers of black fruit and spice with notes of coffee and smoke make it a natural with a robust lamb stew.

WORTH THE WAIT Michter’s US* 1 Small Batch Unblended American Whiskey LCBO 472662, $89.95 It’s taken three years but finally the prominent U.S. distillery Michter’s has released its unblended whiskey. Ageing in bourbon-soaked barrels imbues the complex spirit with deep butterscotch and vanilla notes along with hints of caramel and dried fruit. Savour on its own or team with pe- can pie—but don’t tarry! Quantities of this special whiskey are limited.

Nickel Brook Uncommon Element Brett Pale Ale LCBO 482596, 375 mL, $3.35 Based in Burlington, Ont., Nickel Brook has been a leader in the province’s craft brewing movement since 2005. This award-winner—it garnered gold at last year’s Canadian Brewing Awards—combines the funky barnyard tang of Brettanomyces yeast with an American pale ale. It’s a crisp, hop-forward brew with notes of orange peel and pineapple. GOLD MEDAL BREW

FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2018 13

WINTER ROSE Gérard Bertrand Côte des Roses Rosé VINTAGES 373985, $17.95

The bottle, its base crafted to resemble a rose, is a stunner, and the wine inside is equally striking. A light rosé from an iconic producer, it sports aromas of summer fruits and roses with a hint of grapefruit. Pour as an aperitif or serve with shellfish to bring a touch of summer to an Ontario win- ter’s night.

HOMEGROWN SPIRIT Spirit of York Gin LCBO 536805, $49.95 Here’s a small-batch gin from Spirit of York to add local flavour to your favourite cocktails. Crafted in Toronto’s historic Distillery District from 100-percent Ontario-grown rye, local spring water and select yeasts, the gin is infused with 15 botanicals, including cinnamon, coriander, fen- nel and juniper. Look for spicy notes balanced with citrus and hints of pepper and anise.

COMFORT FOOD RED

Open Dark Red VQA LCBO 523027, $13.95

Open brand wines are LCBO customer favourites, so this new red blend is sure to be popular. As the name suggests, the wine is full of dark, intense fruit flavours, along with touches of mocha and caramel. A lovely sipper, it’s also the ideal match for hearty ribs with barbecue sauce or a rich beef braise.

WHAT ’ S NEW

ALL DRESSED UP

Concha Y Toro Winemaker’s Lot 148 Carmenère VINTAGES 30957, $18.95 This popular red—exclusive to Canada—has been part of the Vintages Essentials portfolio for a long time. And, now it’s getting a makeover. Well-known Chilean producer Concha y Toro is wisely leaving the wine alone—it continues to sport black cherry, coffee and smoky notes, making it the perfect pour with prime rib—concentrating instead on gussying up the packaging.

SPECIAL BLEND

Johnnie Walker Blenders’ Batch Red Rye Finish LCBO 541391, $49.95

SOUTH AFRICAN ICON Big Bill Sauvignon Blanc LCBO 524330, $12.95 This larger-than-life brand com- memorates WilliamMillar: boxing champ, war hero, South African rugby captain and general man- ager of iconic wine producer KWV. The man was a hard act to follow, but this easy-drinking white nails it. Juicy and refreshing with aro- mas of tropical fruit and hints of apricot on the palate, it’s perfect with sushi, goat cheese or chicken tacos.

In a homage to American rye whiskey, Johnnie Walker has created this unique blend that’s aged in rye barrels. Featuring four Scottish whiskies—including ones from Cardhu and the now-closed Port Dundas distilleries—the whisky is balanced with intense sweetness and elements of fruit and spice. The perfect tipple with roasted nuts or smoked salmon.

FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2018 15

MUST HAVES BY BRENDA MORRISON • PHOTOGRAPHY BY DARREN KEMPER

FOR WINTER ENTERTAINING AND NESTING, CLEVER NEW ACCESSORIES ADD LUSTRE TO COMFORT FOODS AND SIMPLE PLEASURES.

IN FOCUS Finding it hard to read recipes, expiry dates or instructions on food packaging? Magnifying Bookmarks ($7.98) make it easier to read small type while also marking your spot in the latest issue of Food & Drink or a new cook- book. Available in several designs, including The Eyeglass and The Spyglass, at TOWN (Toronto, 647•748•8696, townthestore.com).

TRAY CHIC From the TeakHaus Specialty Collection, this unique Anti- pasto Board ($100) is an interactive way to serve everything from charcuterie to pizza. Take individual sections back to the kitchen to replenish; leave remaining food for guests to continue snacking. Stackable for compact storage. Available at Bergo Designs (Toronto, 416•861•1821, bergo.ca).

OH , DEER! We’re fawning over these Deer Mugs ($12.95 each), featuring a full wrap-around design in four attractive colour schemes. Clear out mismatched and faded co ee cups and replace them with a di erent colour for each person in your household to claim as their own. Available at Bradshaws & Kitchen Detail (Stratford, 1•844•271•6281, bradshawscanada.com).

STOCK OPTION Chilly weather calls for hearty soups and stews, making the Emile-Henry Stockpot ($190, 3.6 L capacity) truly indispensible. It is made of Flame Ceramic, which is ideal for slow, controlled cooking on gas, electric and induction stoves—and for keeping food hot when served at the table. Available in two colours: burgundy and charcoal at Golda’s Kitchen (Mississauga, 1•866•465•3299, goldaskitchen.com).

MAKING THE CUT Tired of baked potatoes? Impress dinner guests with on-trend and Instagram-worthy Hasselback potatoes. Simply use a sharp knife and a Hasselback Potato Slicing Rack ($18.99) for thin, even slices. Cook on the grill or in the oven until crispy, then load with your fa- vourite toppings. Available at Barbecue World stores (800•387•7757, barbecueworld.com).

BASKET CASE For cold winter morning brunches, serve a selection of warmed-up croissants, bagels and muffins in a Felt Bread Basket ($75). It’s also a great-looking catch-all for keeping countertops tidy in the kitchen. Available in an assortment of colours, at Bergo Designs (Toronto, 416•861•1821, bergo.ca).

WELCOME DISTRACTION Keep guests occupied trying to release dinner’s wine while you finish up cooking with the aid of an All Bottled Up puzzle ($42). Choose either All Time Best Cellar or The Grape Escape, both available at Bonkers Gift Shops (519•624•9513, bonkersgiftshop.ca).

FOOD & DRI NK WINTER

WWW. H I GHLANDPARKWH I SKY. COM

@H I GHLANDPARKCANADA

© 2017 Highland Distillers Limited. Highland Park® Scotch Whisky, 40% Alc./ Vol., Imported by Edrington Americas, New York, NY. “H” Device.® Please Drink Responsibly.

TREND SPOTTING BY ERIC VELLEND  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR FROM THE WORLD OF FOOD AND DRINK.

Griddle Me This While everyone goes crazy for grilling in warmer weather, there is a similar, indoor cooking method that yields equally delicious results. It’s called griddling. Here in North America, a hot griddle yields dozens of comfort food clas- sics, from stacks of flapjacks to Philly cheesesteak sand- wiches. “Plancha” has become a ubiquitous word on Spanish menus, where it refers to foods that have been seared on a hot metal plate (a.k.a. griddle). Griddling at home only requires a heavy-duty fry pan and a good spatula. But for effortless pancake produc- tion, family fajita nights and heating up hors d’oeuvre for a party, it’s worth investing in a two-burner or electric griddle. Either way, once you get grid- dling there’s no going back.

FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2018 19

Many burger aficionados don’t fire up the grill when they need an all-beef fix. Instead, they throw a pan on the stove and start smashing. Smash burgers are made by flattening a ball of ground beef on a searing hot griddle, creating a juicy patty with a deep brown crust. It’s the style at beloved chains such as In-N-Out Burger and Shake Shack in the U.S., as well as The Burger’s Priest here in Ontario. Smash burgers are easy enough to make at home. All you need is a cast-iron pan, a sturdy metal spatula, and our recipe for Smash Burgers with Cheese, Pickles and Special Sauce (recipe on page 85). smash HIT

SAY CHEESE

Grilled cheese is technically griddled cheese. Here are tips on getting the crispest, gooiest results. Choose bread with a light crumb and no holes —i.e. avoid rustic sourdough, as it will leak cheese and end up too tough. You need a moist cheese that melts easily. Mozzarella, young cheddar and Gruyère are excellent, as are brie and Swiss. Butter the bread right to the edges before cooking for an even crust with no dry spots. Cook it on a medium-low to medium heat so the outside isn’t fully browned before the cheese has melted. Don’t be afraid to mix it up. Some people swear by mayo instead of butter, which adds a tangy flavour. Grated Parmesan on the outside yields a crunchy, umami-packed exterior.

Cooking on a griddle is popular in Spain, where it is called a plancha . But instead of messy diner food, Spaniards favour griddling seasonal ingredients without much adornment. Seafood does well on the plancha, be it quick-cooking items such as fish fillets, shrimp and squid, or thicker seafood that can be enjoyed un- derdone including tuna steaks and scallops. Thin steaks, pork chops and chicken cutlets are also terrific cooked on a plancha, as is asparagus and sliced vegetables. It’s easy enough to cook foods a la plancha at home. Coat the food with vegetable oil and salt, and sear in a seasoned cast iron skillet or heavy-duty nonstick pan over medium-high heat. Give it a whirl with our Shrimp a la Plancha with Smoked Paprika Vinaigrette (recipe on page 85). A LA PLANCHA

FOOD & DRI NK WINTER

TREND SPOTT ING

PAN TASTIC! No griddle? No problem! You can griddle cook on cast-iron or heavy-duty stainless steel or nonstick frying pans—heavy duty is key for a steady, even heat. There are, however, advantages to owning a true griddle pan. Lodge 12-Inch Cast-Iron Square Griddle ($79.99 at The Bay) gives you that extra room to cook more at once and the low sides make flipping and turning easy. Working best on a gas stove, the All-Clad 20-Inch Grande Griddle ($180 at William Ashley) is great for all your griddling needs, especially big family breakfasts and fajita nights.

Going Electric If you regularly cook breakfast for a crowd, it might be worth investing in an electric griddle. Black & Decker Electric Griddle ($59.99 at Canadian Tire) is terrific for pancakes, eggs and bacon. For more muscle, the versatile Delonghi Livenza All Day Grill ($349.99 at The Bay) can be used as a griddle, grill or sandwich press.

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The most important tool in a griddle cook’s arsenal is a spatula. A good all-purpose option is the OXO Silicone Large Flex Turner ($13.99 at The Bay). It has a comfy non-slip grip, thin edges that e ortlessly slide under food, and it’s heat resistant up to 600°F (315°C). If breakfast is your game, try the Crate & Barrel Omelette-Pancake Spatula ($10.95 at Crate & Barrel). Its thin, wide head will help you flip pancakes and eggs with aplomb plus it’s safe to use on nonstick surfaces. To griddle like a short-order cook, arm yourself with a Cuisinox Angled Serving Spatula ($11.99 at CookStore.ca), an essential tool for flattening and flipping smash burgers. need a LIFT?

If you own two cast-iron skillets, then you’ve got yourself a make- shift panini press! Heat both pans over a medium heat. Place the sandwiches in the larger skillet and the smaller skillet on top. In minutes, you’ll have crisp, toasty panini. [ GRIDDLE HACK ] MEET THE PRESS

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DRINK SPIRITS

WARMINGUP TO GIN GIN MAY CONJURE UP NOTIONS OF SUMMERY G&T s , BUT THE SPIRIT’S NUANCED FLAVOURS COME INTO THEIR OWN IN WARM COCKTAILS, IDEAL FOR COZY WINTER EVENINGS. BY VICTORIA WALSH • PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE

GIN SPIKED LON DON FOG recipe on page 95

Give comforting steamed milk a grown-up twist by simply adding tea and a shot of juniper-forward gin. This recipe is great for enter- taining since it’s easily doubled, tripled or quadrupled etc. GREENALL’S ORIGINAL LONDON DRY GIN LCBO 483073, $26.45 Offering slight lemon and coriander on the nose, this clean-tasting gin boasts lots of the spirit’s most quint- essential flavour: juniper. British-dis- tilled, it’s a classic-style gin with a long finish that works well in cocktails that call for London dry gin.

FOOD & DRI NK WINTER

SPIRITS WARMING UP TO GIN

RAMOS INSPIRED WH I T E HOT C HOCO L AT E recipe on page 95 Creamy, rich and citrusy, this home- made white hot chocolate recipe is the perfect foil for a floral-forward gin. Plus, orange blossom water (which carries notes of both citrus and flower) ties the ingredients together beautifully.

BLOOM GIN LCBO 483081, $43.85

Living up to its name, this gin reveals deli- cate floral notes, the spirit’s highlight. Think chamomile and citrus with restrained juni- per. A great base for cocktails where gin plays the starring role.

FOOD & DRI NK WINTER

Make it a Saturday – or Sunday– to savour and bring home your favourite coffee from the grocery store. Explore special offers, recipes and more at myStarbucksWeekend.com .

© 2017 Starbucks Corporation. All rights reserved.

SPIRITS WARMING UP TO GIN

MULLED MA R T I N E Z recipe on page 95

In a hot twist on the classic Martinez, the earthy and ro- bust flavours of this gin pair beautifully with vermouth— it also stands up well to the added mulling spices.

ISLE OF HARRIS GIN LCBO 516617, $86.35

Velvety and almost creamy-textured, this complex and unusual gin stands out thanks to its subtle and pleasing vegetal taste. Presumably this quality comes from the ad- dition of sugar kelp harvested from the island where this gin is distilled. You’ll also find pine, orange, spicy coriander and pepper balanced with juniper.

FOOD & DRI NK WINTER

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EMBRACE SPR I NG

If your patio could talk, it would beg you to drape it in long-lasting color and bountiful blooms that make your heart sing. We’re here to help you grow that dream, starting with fresh looks and fun ideas in our FREE Gardener’s Idea Book. Hop on over to social media to find daily inspiration in our how-to videos featuring Laura of @GardenAnswer and useful tips that will help your plants flourish. Let’s create your home sweet home together.

THE GARDENER’S IDEA BOOK

Request your FREE copy of our annual Gardener’s Idea Book or view it online at www.provenwinners.com.

FOOD  TRENDS

tahini

ATASTEOF

BY AMY ROSEN PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

NO WONDER TAHINI HAS BECOME SUCH

A BUZZ-WORTHY INGREDIENT— IT

ADDS RICH LAYERED FLAVOURS TO DISHES BOTH SWEET AND SAVOURY.

TAHINI, a paste or condiment made from toasted and ground hulled sesame seeds, is like the ketchup of the Middle East and Mediterranean. Found in everyday staples like hummus and baba ghanoush, it’s so ubiquitous that in the seminal Adam Sandler movie You Don’t Mess with the Zohan , he even stirred it into his coffee. (We don’t recommend this.) Tahini can be found at most major supermarkets, and black tahini (if you can find it) is also making inroads. To make black tahini, buy a cup of toasted black sesame seeds and blend it with 2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil in a blender until smooth and pourable. Cover and store in the fridge for up to a week. For ease of execution, we’ve decided to go full-on regular tahini, with a decadent parfait, luscious lamb chops, chicken satay, and tahini-swirl brownies for dessert. We think the Zohan would approve. Yogurt − tahini parfaits recipe on page 85

FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2018 29

TRENDS  A TASTE OF TAHINI

Chicken− tahini satay with spicy black sesame brittle

3 For satay sauce, in a small bowl, combine tahini, soy sauce, rice vinegar and water. Stir together until smooth. Set aside. 4 Skewer marinated chicken onto soaked skew- ers (1 strip per skewer), through the length of the pieces. Broil chicken in the top third of the oven for 2 to 3 minutes each side, or until juices run clear. May also be barbecued on medium- high heat if desired. 5 Lay out cooked chicken skewers on a plat- ter and drizzle with satay sauce. Sprinkle with a handful of black sesame brittle and sliced green onion. Serve at once. Serves 6 to 8

2 tsp (10 mL) rice vinegar ¼ cup (60 mL) warm water 16 wooden or bamboo skewers, soaked for 1 hour 2 green onions, thinly sliced 1 In a medium bowl, stir together soy sauce and rice vinegar. Add chicken and marinate for 30 minutes. 2 To make sesame brittle, line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Combine sugar and water in a small saucepan over medium heat. Cook until it comes to a steady boil, stirring carefully and constantly with a wooden spoon until it turns golden (just over 300°F/150°C on a candy thermometer). Remove from heat and immediately stir in toasted black sesames, red pepper flakes and salt, then very carefully pour onto the prepared baking sheet, spread- ing it out evenly with the back of the wooden spoon. Cool for 20 minutes, then break into small shards. Put some shards in a Ziploc bag and gently pound with a rolling pin to make finer shards. The rest can be stored in an air- tight container for up to 2 weeks. (Though it’s a tasty treat, so likely won’t last the night.)

Tahini is similar to peanut butter in that it’s a nutty-tasting savoury base for a delicious sauce. And that’s what we did with this Asian- inspired chicken satay appetizer. To add some crunch and—let’s face it—drama, we also made a sweet and spicy black sesame crumble to up the wow factor. CHICKEN ¼ cup (60 mL) soy sauce 2 tbsp (30 mL) rice vinegar 4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, about 6 oz (175 g) each, 1½ lbs (750 g) in total, each breast cut into 4 long even strips SESAME BRITTLE ¾ cup (175 mL) sugar 1 tbsp (15 mL) water ½ cup (125 mL) toasted black sesame seeds

WHAT TO SERVE Newcastle Brown Ale LCBO 12047, 500 mL, $2.70 Trius Chardonnay VQA LCBO 497248, $15.10

(available at Asian grocers) ½ tsp (2 mL) red pepper flakes Pinch of sea salt SATAY SAUCE ¼ cup (60 mL) tahini, well stirred 2 tsp (10 mL) soy sauce

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TRENDS  A TASTE OF TAHINI

Seared lamb chops & pearl onions with mashed peas & mint tahini

Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste 1 tbsp (15 mL) butter ⅓ cup (80 mL) water 1 tsp (5 mL) sugar Juice of half a lemon 1 Marinate lamb in olive oil and garlic on the counter for 30 minutes, turning halfway through. To peel pearl onions, trim the ends and drop in a pot of boiling water for less than a minute. Drain in a colander and rinse with cold water. The peels should pop off. 2 For sauce, add tahini, water, lemon juice, garlic and mint leaves to a blender. Purée until smooth. Season and taste. Cover and set aside. 3 Microwave or boil peas until tender and sweet, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain and add to a me- dium bowl, stirring in sour cream, salt and pep- per. Using an immersion blender, pulse a few times. Cover and set aside. 4 Preheat a grill pan or large skillet tomedium- high heat. Season lamb well on both sides and cook for 3 to 4 minutes on each side, depend-

Lamb and mint are a perfect pairing, but so too are peas and pearl onions. Add tahini to the mix, and the gang’s all here! A vibrant plate to perk up any mid-winter meal, and the minted tahini is superb on the juicy lamb chops. Use rib, loin or shoulder chops for this recipe. LAMB & ONIONS 8 lamb chops, about 1½ lbs (750 g)

ing on the size of your chops. Cooking them to medium-rare is preferred (slightly pink in the middle). Remove to a plate and tent with foil. Meanwhile, add butter and onions to the same grill pan or skillet, and sauté for 5 minutes until they start to caramelize. Add water and sugar and cook, uncovered for 5 to 7 minutes more, or until onions are tender and golden. Season with salt and pepper and a squeeze of lemon. 5 Place a mound of mashed peas on each plate, top with 2 lamp chops and caramelized onions, and spoon over mint tahini sauce. Serve at once. Serves 4

2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil 2 cloves garlic, sliced 2 bags, each 10 oz (300 g), pearl onions MINT-TAHINI SAUCE ½ cup (125 mL) tahini, well stirred ¼ cup (60 mL) water Juice of ½ a lemon 1 garlic clove, chopped 1 bunch mint, about ½ cup (125 mL) Salt and pepper to taste MASHED PEAS 4 cups (1 L) frozen petite peas ½ cup (125 mL) full-fat (14%) sour cream Salt and pepper to taste

WHAT TO SERVE MontGras Carmenère Reserva LCBO 178624, $11.95 Sandbanks Cabernet Franc VQA LCBO 177485, $14.95

FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2018 31

TRENDS  A TASTE OF TAHINI

Tahini−swirl brownies

A mildly exotic swirl of tahini makes these su­ per chocolaty brownies a little more savoury and a little more special. A sprinkling of salt at the end heightens the sweetness of the choco­ late while also highlighting the tahini, for an outstanding bite.

8 oz (250 g) semi-sweet chocolate ½ cup (125 mL) unsalted butter 2 tbsp (30 mL) sesame oil 3 eggs

¼ tsp (1 mL) sea salt 1 cup (250 mL) sugar

¼ cup (60 mL) cocoa powder 1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract 1¼ cups (310 mL) flour ¾ cup (175 mL) room-temperature tahini, well stirred ½ tsp (2 mL) flaky sea salt 1 Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). 2 On low heat on the stovetop or in the micro­ wave, melt together the semi-sweet chocolate and butter. They’ll seem like oil and water at first, but will come together and look nice and shiny. Stir in sesame oil and set aside. To a large bowl, add eggs, beat until good and frothy, then stir in salt, sugar, cocoa powder, vanilla and then cooled melted chocolate and butter. Stir in flour while making sure there are no lumps. 3 Grease an 8-inch (20-cm) cake pan, then pour in the batter. Drop spoonfuls of stirred tahini on top of batter then pull through and swirl with the tip of a knife. Place on the mid­ dle rack in the preheated oven for 30 minutes or until a toothpick poked in the middle comes out clean. Sprinkle with salt and slice into 16 squares. Serves 10 to 12

WHAT TO SERVE Young’s Double Chocolate Stout LCBO 486951, 500 mL, $3.65 Rekorderlig Wild Berries Cider LCBO 413500, 500 mL, $3.05

32  FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2018

LCBO #485359

© 2017. Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits.

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100% CERTIFIED • HANDCRAFTED

muskokaroastery.com

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FOOD  SEASONAL

UNDAY UPPERS

BY JENNIFER M ac KENZIE  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

REVIVE THE ENGAGING TRADITION OF SUNDAY EVENING FAMILY SUPPERS; JUST TURN OFF THE ELECTRONICS AND TEMPT EVERYONE WITH THESE IRRESISTIBLE, RICHLY FLAVOURED DISHES.

CHICKEN & SWEET POTATO COTTAGE PIE recipe on page 84

FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2018 35

SEASONAL  SUNDAY SUPPERS

CHILI BEEF POT ROAST WITH CORN & PEPPERS

5 After about 2¼ hours, return skillet to high heat. Add 1 tbsp (15 mL) of the remaining oil and heat until shimmering. Spread corn in skil- let and cook, stirring once, for about 5 minutes or until slightly charred; transfer to a bowl. Add remaining 1 tbsp (15 mL) oil, then add red peppers and poblano pepper. Cook, stir- ring once, for about 5 minutes or until slightly charred. Season vegetables to taste with salt and pepper. 6 Add vegetables to pot roast, uncover and bake about 20 minutes longer or until beef is fork-tender and peppers are tender. 7 Transfer roast to a cutting board, tent with foil and let rest for 10 minutes. Season sauce to taste with salt and pepper. Slice roast across the grain and serve with sauce and vegetables. Serves 6

¾ cup (175 mL) dark or amber beer 2 cups (500 mL) canned diced tomatoes ¾ cup (175 mL) beef stock 1 can (127 mL) diced green chilies 2 tbsp (30 mL) tomato paste 2 cups (500 mL) frozen corn kernels, thawed and drained

Pot roast is most often paired with root veg- etables but here it takes a chili twist, slow- simmered in a beer, tomato and slightly pep- pery sauce, then finished with bright and tasty sautéed corn and peppers. Serve with mashed potatoes or brown rice or with cornbread or crusty rolls to soak up the sauce. 3 lb (1.5 kg) boneless beef blade or cross rib roast Salt and freshly ground pepper ¼ cup (60 mL) vegetable oil, divided

2 sweet red peppers, chopped 1 large poblano pepper, chopped 1 Preheat oven to 325°F (160°C).

1 large onion, chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tbsp (15 mL) chili powder

2 Pat roast dry and season with salt and pep- per. Heat 2 tbsp (30 mL) of the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Sear roast, turn- ing to brown all sides, for about 8 minutes total. Transfer to a large casserole dish with a lid or a Dutch oven. 3 Reduce heat to medium-low. Sauté onion in skillet for about 3 minutes or until softened. Add garlic, chili powder, 1 tsp (5 mL) salt, and pepper to taste; sauté for 1 minute, until fra- grant. Pour in beer and bring to a boil, scrap- ing up brown bits stuck to pan. Add tomatoes, beef stock, green chilies and tomato paste; return to a boil, stirring often. 4 Pour tomato sauce over beef. Cover and braise roast in oven for 2½ hours.

WHAT TO SERVE Wells IPA LCBO 439828, 500 mL, $2.30 Waupoos Premium Cider LCBO 612804, 4 pk, $13.55

36  FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2018

www.cantinesgarzi.com

Choose a good red Italian wine

+29090 Vegan Friendly

+194118

SEASONAL  SUNDAY SUPPERS

RIGATONI & RICOTTA MEATBALL BAKE

5 Bake for about 20 minutes or until no longer pink inside. Let cool on sheet for 5 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 375°F (190°C). 6 Meanwhile, in a large pot of boiling salted water, cook rigatoni according to package di- rections just until almost al dente (you want it a little under-done). Drain and return to pot. 7 Reserve 1 cup (250 mL) of the tomato sauce. Add remaining sauce to pasta with 1 cup (250 mL) of the provolone and the Parmesan cheese. Toss to evenly combine. 8 Spread pasta mixture into a 12- to 16-cup (3‑ to 4-L) shallow baking dish. Nestle meatballs into pasta and spoon reserved sauce on top of meatballs. Sprinkle with remaining provolone. 9 Bake for about 20 minutes or until bubbling, cheese is melted and meatballs are browned. Serves 6 to 8

1½ lbs (750 g) lean ground beef or veal, or a mixture 1 lb (500 g) rigatoni pasta 2 cups (500 mL) shredded provolone or mozzarella cheese, about 8 oz (250 g), divided ⅓ cup (80 mL) freshly grated Parmesan cheese 1 For the tomato sauce, heat oil over medium heat in a deep pot. Add onion and cook, stir- ring, for about 5 minutes or until softened but not browned. Add garlic, basil, oregano and ½ tsp (2 mL) each salt and pepper; cook, stir- ring, for 3 minutes until fragrant. 2 Add tomatoes and bring to a boil, breaking up with a spoon. Reduce heat and boil gently, stirring occasionally, for about 20 minutes or until sauce is thickened and flavours are blend- ed. Season to taste with salt, pepper and sugar (if desired). 3 Meanwhile, preheat oven to 450°F (230°C). Line a large rimmed baking sheet with foil. 4 For the meatballs, whisk eggs in a large bowl until blended. Stir in bread crumbs, salt, pep- per, ricotta cheese, garlic and basil. Add beef, and using a fork, combine with egg mixture, just until evenly distributed but without over- working the meat. Using a scant ¼ cup (60 mL) of meat mixture for each meatball, shape into 2-inch (5-cm) meatballs and place on prepared baking sheet, spacing apart.

What is it about pasta and meatballs baked with gooey cheese that can make any winter day seem less frigid and make the entire family happy? In this version, ricotta keeps the meat- balls moist and tender and a simple sauce lets the traditional flavours shine through—and did we mention gooey, melty cheese? A crisp Caesar salad or green salad with a balsamic vinaigrette completes the tradition.

TOMATO SAUCE 2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil 1 large onion, finely chopped 4 cloves garlic, minced 2 tsp (10 mL) dried basil

1½ tsp (7 mL) dried oregano Salt and freshly ground pepper 2 cans (each 796 mL) tomatoes, preferably San Marzano Granulated sugar (optional) MEATBALLS 2 eggs ½ cup (125 mL) dry bread crumbs 1 tsp (5 mL) salt ½ tsp (2 mL) freshly ground pepper 1 cup (250 mL) ricotta cheese 1 clove garlic, minced 2 tbsp (30 mL) chopped fresh basil, or 1½ tsp (7 mL) dried

WHAT TO SERVE Monte Antico VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 69377, $15.95 Fazi Battaglia Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi LCBO 24422, $12.00

To make ahead, see TIP on page 84

38  FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2018

SEASONAL  SUNDAY SUPPERS

PHYLLO-WRAPPED HERBED PORK TENDERLOIN WITH MUSHROOMS

1 tsp (5 mL) chopped fresh sage ½ tsp (2 mL) chopped fresh thyme Salt and freshly ground pepper 2 tbsp (30 mL) chopped fresh parsley 1 Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 2 Pat pork dry and season all over with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a large skillet over high heat; add 1 tbsp (15 mL) of the butter and swirl until melted. Brown pork on all sides, about 5 minutes total. Transfer to a plate and let cool. (Reserve skillet.) 3 In a small bowl, combine mustard, sage and thyme. 4 Melt remaining butter. Lay 1 sheet of phyllo on work surface with one long side facing you and brush lightly with butter, then repeat, stacking the 3 sheets and ending with butter. Place pork parallel to the long side of the phyllo closest to you, about 2 inches (5 cm) up from the edge. Spread mustard mixture over top, sides and ends of pork. Starting with the long edge closest to you, fold pastry over pork, then fold both short sides in toward the centre over the pork. Roll up to enclose pork, without wrapping too tight. 5 Place seam-side down on prepared baking sheet and brush outside of phyllo with butter.

Zesty mustard and savoury herbs surround moist pork in a crispy wrapping in this easy- to-make but impressive dinner. The tender, flavourful mushrooms are so simple yet so de- licious. Fresh herbs make all the difference in this dish so do pick them up at the store, or if you grow them at home, check your garden un- der the snow—you might be surprised to find green sage and thyme there ready to pick. This recipe can easily be doubled for more servings; just sauté the mushrooms in two batches or use two skillets to avoid overcrowding, which makes them steam. A digital probe thermome- ter is very helpful to cooking the pork enclosed in pastry to perfection. Serve lightly cooked green beans and roasted or mashed potatoes on the side. 1 lb (500 g) pork tenderloin, trimmed Salt and freshly ground pepper 2 tsp (10 mL) vegetable oil ¼ cup (60 mL) butter, divided 2 tbsp (30 mL) grainy mustard or 1½ tbsp (22 mL) smooth Dijon mustard

Insert a leave-in probe thermometer through the phyllo at one end of the roll near the bottom, so the tip is in the thickest part of pork. 6 Bake for about 18 minutes or until phyllo is golden and crisp and thermometer in pork registers 145°F (63°C) for medium-rare. Let rest for 5 minutes. 7 For themushrooms, return skillet tomedium- high heat. Add butter and swirl to coat. Cook mushrooms, stirring often, for about 10 min- utes or until liquid is released and mushrooms are lightly browned but not dry. Stir in sage and thyme; season to taste with salt and pepper; sauté for 1 minute to blend flavours. Remove from heat and stir in parsley. 8 Cut pork into medallions, cutting crosswise on a slight angle with a serrated knife. Spoon mushrooms onto warmed plates and arrange pork medallions alongside. Serves 4 WHAT TO SERVE Pelee Island Ruggles Run Noir Zweigelt VQA LCBO 216028, $12.45 Oyster Bay Chardonnay VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 326728, $19.95

1½ tsp (7 mL) chopped fresh sage 1 tsp (5 mL) chopped fresh thyme 3 sheets phyllo pastry MUSHROOMS 2 tbsp (30 mL) butter 12 oz (375 g) small mixed cremini and white mushrooms, sliced if larger

40  FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2018

Do I look 25 to you? At the LCBO, we never guess your age. That’s why we checked the ID of over 14.4million people last year. You never know until you ask for ID.

The LCBO never guesses. See if you can. lcbo.com/cardornot

A VQA Wine Mani festo

The problem with history, is that it ’s in the past . What comes next is much more interesting. At least to us .

VQA Wines of Ontario isn’ t just a stamp on a bot tle . I t ’s an experience . I t ’s not just about great wine . I t ’s about being dif ferent . Embracing dif ferent . Standing out .

And standing up. For who we are . I f they think we’re crazy for making wine? We’ll show them crazy.

VQA wines from Ontario are making what ’s next in wine . So if that means breaking rules , defying conventions , expectations , being bold, fresh, creative, forging our own style . . . Then that ’s what we’ll do. We’ll do us .

We all know where wine comes from.

So let ’s see where it ’s going.

Discover why international wine critics are calling Ontario “One of the most astonishing wine regions in the world.”

Of course winter calls for cozy evenings indoors and hearty comfort foods, but that doesn’t mean you can’t also experiment with something new. If you love the flavour of smoked foods we have a feature that takes you from cocktails to dessert— and you don’t even need a barbecue if you follow our tips for making a stovetop smoker. And talking of flavour, Korean cuisine is having a fashionable moment in cities across North America. Our Korean menu brings it into your kitchen just in time for the Olympic Winter Games in PyeongChang together with a choice of beers and cocktails. Or if wine is your pleasure, check out the latest attitudes towards it that are changing the rules of the how, what and when of wine service. Maybe it’s time to break some old winter habits in these delicious new ways! WINTER

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE

46 GAMES ON! | 52 SMOKE SIGNALS 58 THE NEW RULES OF WINE

Banchan Clockwise: Pickled Carrots, Quick Kimchi, Pickled Sprouts, Warm Zucchini Salad, Spinach Salad recipes on pages 92 & 93

46  FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2018

BY LUCY WAVERMAN & JAMES CHATTO PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE games on! With the Winter Olympics coming up fast, we’ve assembled a mouth-watering South Korean-inspired menu with matching cocktails and craft beers to serve to the gang—perfect for getting together to cheer on your team!

THIS FEBRUARY, all eyes will be on PyeongChang, South Korea, and the XXIII Olympic Winter Games. We have no doubt that our brilliant Canadian athletes will perform superbly. To honour them and the Games we’ve developed a Korean-inspired menu that will definitely spice up your winter-sports watching.     Korean food is intensely flavoured, rich and textured, but it’s easy to make as most of it is one-dish cooking. Koreans love to barbecue meat, but in the cold winter months they also make succulent stews. At a typical meal, all the dishes are served family style and everyone helps themselves. Rice is always included and so are many small pickled, fermented, raw or cooked side dishes called banchan . Buy them at Korean markets and some Asian stores if you don’t want to make your own. For a quick guide to Korean pantry staples, see page 90.     To accompany our Korean feast we’ve chosen beers that will work with everything on the menu, and created two cocktails using Korea’s national spirit, soju. Perfect for toasting our athletes as they reach the podium!

FOOD & DRI NK WINTER 2018 47

soju cocktails

ROOT & FRUIT recipe on page 90

Soju is South Korea’s ubiquitous drink, a virtually neutral spirit less than half as potent as vodka. Made from a variety of different grains and vegetables, it’s sweetened with sugar, corn syrup or stevia. Our first cocktail surrounds Chamisul Fresh Soju ( LCBO 467480, 360 mL, $9.15) with ginger and citrus flavours. Chill the soju before using.

FRESH ROSE recipe on page 90

Most Korean soju cocktails are sim- ple mixes, usually with beer (when it’s called Somaek) or soda pop or even runny yogurt. This is more delicate, bringing the aroma of rose petals and gin botanicals. It’s as if Chum Churum Soju ( LCBO 448605, 360mL, $9.15) put on a silk robe em- broidered with flowers…

Seafood and Tofu Stew recipe on page 91