LCBO Food & Drink Autumn 2022

Left: Soil, sun and TLC contribute to the unique terroir at the Malivoire vineyard. Below: You get what you knead at RPMBakehouse.

TRIED AND TRUE

3 PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY

I t was dirt that drew the first wine-dreamers to the County—thin, poor, gravelly soils on a bedrock of lime stone, like Burgundy, in fact, and promising much. But could the Burgundian varieties Chardonnay and Pinot Noir possibly live through the brutal winters? Only if the vines were buried every fall and then laboriously unburied by hand every spring. That’s what pioneers like Ed Neuser (Waupoos Estates Winery) and Geoff Heinricks (Domaine La Reine, Keint-he) figured out in the 1990s—and the vines survived. Other adventurous souls were opening wineries by the early 2000s, followed by a second wave 10 years later. Today, there are around 36 wineries in PEC, but only about 800 acres of vineyards between them. Which means that

Vineland Estates Semi-Dry Riesling VQA (LCBO 232033, $15.95) The standard-bearer for Vineland Estates since the initial 1983 vintage, this remains a classic for those who like to balance Riesling’s zingy acidity with a measure of sweet ness. With lemon-lime and pear notes and only

Riesling and Chardonnay are still the brightest whites in this part of the province, with Pinot Noir and Gamay the perennial red stars—all cool-climate varieties per fectly suited to the Benchlands. But part of the deep pleasure of visiting wine country is encountering unexpected treasures. There are 111 wineries on the Niagara Peninsula, making single-varietal wines and blends from dozens of varieties, and in all sorts of styles. The experimentation continues (Mr. de Chaunac would be proud), and of course, each vintage is different, showing its own unique nuances of character.

10 per cent ABV, it’s excellent alongside a light lunch.

WHILE YOU’RE THERE

RPMBakehouse Jordan Village Restaurant Pearl Morissette’s free-

standing bakery and store uses flours from heritage grains for their superb breads and pastries. Shop for sophisticated groceries and soups (sunchoke & smoked oyster, anyone?), sandwiches and buns, or stay

Malivoire Ladybug Rosé VQA (VINTAGES ESSEN TIALS 559088, $17.95) The first serious, sophisticated Ontario rosé back in the day, this is still a delight—coral coloured, not too dry and with a pleasing weight. Food-friendly and also a fine aperitif, it offers subtle impressions of cherry, red apple and watermelon.

for a bistro lunch. rpmbakehouse.com

Grand Oak Culinary Market Vineland

Adding a little something to a clam bake at the Hinterland winery.

Pick up all you need for a picnic at the produce store or watch the friendly staff make a generous sandwich to your precise specifications. There are two bakeries here, one of them exclusively gluten-free. grandoakculinary.ca

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHNNY C.Y. LAM (WINE POURING)

FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2022 113