LCBO Food & Drink Autumn 2022

ORIGINS

TRIED AND TRUE

WHILE YOU’RE THERE

Stella’s Eatery Waupoos

After three years in Picton, chef Leah Marshall Hannon opened her super friendly bistro in rural Waupoos. Based around local, foraged and seasonal foods, the menu changes constantly, so fans may have to wait for wild rice risotto or bison tartare to reappear. Brunchtime bannock Benedict is simply stellar! stellaseatery.com The suave new hotel has its own bakery (and lobby gourmet store), the source for chef Albert Ponzo’s outrageously delicious pizzas. Or graze on oysters at the Counter Bar. Or go all-in for dinner and see what magic Ponzo conjures up with the County’s finest produce. theroyalhotel.ca The Royal Hotel Picton

Closson Chase Vineyard Pinot Noir VQA (VINTAGES 145888, $36) Classic County Pinot from one of the region’s leaders shows cherry, cranberry and floral notes with a touch of spice from aging in 10 per cent new French oak. Tight, bright and vibrant, a small amount can be found in the VINTAGES September 10 release.

Above: Grilled hakurei turnip with romesco sauce at Stella’s Eatery in Waupoos.

wine that’s actually made from County-grown grapes can be hard to find. Check that the label reads “VQA Prince Edward County.” It’s worth it, because the best wines from the region are stunningly good. Yields are naturally low, intensi fying aromatics, and the vines’ roots have to burrow deep into that limestone to findmoisture, bringing back all sorts of mineral nuances to the fruit. World-class Chardonnay and excellent Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris are the result, not to mention some fabulous sparkling wines—but they are only one reason to visit the County. Talented chefs and restaurateurs seeking a slower life style than the city afforded started moving down here 20 years ago; then hoteliers saw the potential. Factor in 800 kilometres of shoreline, beaches and sand dunes, charming little towns and villages, and a friendly, laid back attitude, and it’s no wonder the County has become a favourite tourist destination.

Hinterland Whitecap Sparkling VQA (LCBO 18361, $23.25) Hinterland has specialized in sparkling wines since 2007. Whitecap is dry, tangy and full of citrus, yellow plum and rye bread notes, with a fine mousse for a Charmat Method bubbly. A toast to Ontario’s sparkling future!

Above: Picton’s elegant Royal Hotel opened earlier this year. Left: Closson Chase produces some of the County’s top Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

114 FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2022