LCBO Food & Drink Spring 2023
Welcome to the Spring 2023 issue of LCBO Food & Drink.
BOLD NEW LOOK. SAME GREAT WHISKY.
RICH LIKE CASHMERE.
SMOOTH LIKE VELVET.
SMART LIKE TRACTOR.
AS ALIVE AS THE PLACE
In California, a new generation of smart tractors
has come online that’s not only electric and
self-driving, they can tell growers about the
health of each individual vine. Cameras and
sensors capture data that’s used to allocate
resources and farm more sustainably.
JOSH CELLARS LEGACY RED BLEND
SAND POINT CHARDONNAY
TRINITY OAKS CHARDONNAY
TRIBUTE CABERNET SAUVIGNON
from Mar 27 - Apr 23 $17.95 now $14.95
from Feb 27 - Mar 26 $20.05 now $17.05
90 PTS Wine Enthusiast
90 PTS & Best Buy Wine Enthusiast
SUSTAINABLE FARMED VEGAN/ NON-GMO
DUAL CERTIFIED SUSTAINABLE
Fresh citrus aromas lead to juicy pineapple flavors with delicate hints of sweet oak. Elegant and complex, this
Aromas and flavors of cassis, blackberry, black cherry and ripe plum give way to earthy notes, tea, vanilla bean and shaved dark chocolate. Well-integrated tannins build to a long, velvety finish.
Crisp apple notes and tropical fruit with hints of vanilla. Farmed and crafted responsibly, with nature in mind.
On the palate, the wine shows good body, with baked plums and dark cherries, with secondary notes of roasted almonds, toasted cedar, and hazelnuts, finishing long with fine, soft tannin.
Chardonnay has a silky-smooth finish.
THE PRISONER RED BLEND
STAGS' LEAP NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON
LA CREMA SONOMA COAST PINOT NOIR
from April 24 - May 21 $56.95 now $51.95
from April 24 - May 21 $71.95 now $66.95
from Mar 27 - Apr 23 $36.95 now $33.95
95 PTS James Suckling 91 PTS Wine Advocate
93 PTS Wine Advocate
On the palate, juicy cassis, black currant, and blackberry are supported by hints of delicate red rose, brown butter, and bittersweet chocolate, giving this Cabernet a rich depth and complexity.
Aromas of blackberry, cherry, leather and tobacco with flavours of red cherry, raspberry and boysenberry. Subtle hints of espresso and cocoa nib underpin notes of exotic spice and toast. The fine tannins are balanced acidity drive a long finish.
Features enticing aromas of Bing cherry, dark chocolate, clove, and roasted fig. Persistent flavours of ripe raspberry, boysenberry, pomegranate, and vanilla linger harmoniously for a smooth and luscious finish.
CERTIFIED NAPA GREEN WINERY
Look for this logo for wines crafted sustainably from 85% or more grapes from certified sustainable vineyards.
prices subject to change
Product of California
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SPRING 2023 Contents
Features 64 PRETTY PLEASE Show-stopping desserts
bring delicate spring colours to your table. BY MICHELLE LUCAS LARVING 70 SMALL WONDERS Brighten up breakfast, lunch and dinner by adding nutrient-rich microgreens and seedlings. BY VICTORIA WALSH 76 SPRING DRINKS FORECAST Breakthroughs, innovations and passing fads in the world of cocktails. BY CHARLENE ROOKE
ON THE COVER Sky-High Blueberry Buttermilk Cake, page 111
Photography by Maya Visnyei
PHOTOGRAPHY BY (TOP) MAYA VISNYEI; (BOTTOM RIGHT) ROB FIOCCA
FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023 7
In Every Issue
Playing Favourites Simple tweaks and changeups help reinvent some favourite
Inside Scoop The latest bits, bites
and sips to keep you in the know. BY ERIC VELLEND
seasonal dishes. BY ERIC VELLEND
The Softer Side of Red Springtime turns our thoughts to softer, lighter red wines: a guide to what to buy. BY DOUG WALLACE One and Done Delectable one-pot dinners for two—paired with half-bottles. BY MIRANDA KEYES WITH ERIC VELLEND
A Splash of Red Wine
Maple-lentil pâté with Merlot jelly— plant-based heaven! BY MEGAN POWELL
Fries with That? Expert tips and techniques
unlock the secrets of producing restaurant quality frites. BY MICHAEL ELLIOTT
Ladies’ Choice What are the cocktails women really like to drink— and who’s making them? BY CHRISTINE SISMONDO Drinks Take Flight Create your own sampler flights of cocktails, beers and wines—with snacks! BY JESSE VALLINS
PHOTOGRAPHY BY (TOP) MAYA VISNYEI; (BOTTOM LEFT & RIGHT) ROB FIOCCA
8 FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023
Now Available at the LCBO
140 years of rum-making tradition passed down straight to your glass .
LCBO # 30331 $30.95
Timeless Jamaican flavor since 1879.
PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY. Myers’s Rum. 40% Alc. by Vol. 80 Proof. Distilled from pure Jamaican molasses. Imported and Bottled by Fred L. Myers and Son, Louisville, KY.
Chief Marketing and Digital Officer, LCBO Vanda Provato
EDITORIAL Editor Jody Dunn Drinks Editor Charlene Rooke Food Editor Eric Vellend Content Editor Victoria Walsh
Publication Coordinator Tricia Lahde Publication Assistant Piper MacFadyen
HERE’S TO PRIDE! Celebrate Pride with the perfect backyard drop-in menu
ART Creative Director Vanessa Wyse, Studio Wyse
Associate Creative Director Lucinda Wallace Senior Designer Hannah Browne Studio Manager Jenna King Photo Editor Sarah Palmer
CONTRIBUTORS James Chatto, Carol Dudar, Michael Elliott, Rob Fiocca, Lindsay Guscott, Katie Hayden,
Darren Kemper, Miranda Keyes, Michelle Lucas Larving, Catherine MacFadyen, Irene Matys, Andrea McCrindle, Vincent Noguchi, Megan Powell, Shelly Shnier, Christine Sismondo, David Sparshott, Christopher St. Onge,
James Tse, Jesse Vallins, Maya Visnyei, Doug Wallace, Genevieve Wiseman
PRODUCTION Production Coordinator Judy Haverkort Production Assistant Everton Smith Prepress Levon Gosdanian
Coming next issue AVAILABLE MAY 10
SALES Publisher Wayne Leek
Kirby Miller, Beaches Media Services firstname.lastname@example.org
Many of the products featured in this issue are available to purchase online at lcbo.com.
For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about LCBO products and policy, please visit lcbocustomercare.com, or call toll-free 1.800.668.5226 or 416.365.5900. TTY Only: 416.864.6898 or 1.800.361.3291. All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the LCBO’s advertising agreement. Food & Drink is published five times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Volume 30, Number 3. Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 per cent post‑consumer fibre. Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs. Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Drink , 100 Queens Quay East, 9th Floor, Toronto, ON, M5E 0C7 ISSN 1195-5988
SPOTLIGHT ON ASPARAGUS New ways to enjoy everyone’s favourite veg
RIBS 101 Everything you need to know to make the best ribs
Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all LCBO stores. Prices are subject to change without notice. Cette publication est également disponible en français.
IN THE PINK A toast to rosé with pink drinks and pink food!
10 FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023
MEET THE NUEVA MARGARITA
bold flavour, crisp taste. made with premium vodka.
MUST BE LEGAL DRINKING AGE. © 2022 THE COCA-COLA COMPANY. “TOPO CHICO” AND “TOPO CHICO HARD SELTZER” ARE TRADEMARKS OF THE COCA-COLA COMPANY.
From our President &CEO
Dear Friends, The Spring edition of Food & Drink is always a sign that a new season is on the horizon; something to look forward to after a long winter. The warmer weather also offers more opportunities to bring family and friends together in celebration, so you may be glad to hear we’re offering an early release of 90 new Ready-to-Drink products, guaranteed to be crowd-pleasers for any occasion. While we’re longing for the warm weeks to come, let’s take a moment to look back at the year so far. In January, we announced that we raised more than $7 million for Ontario’s children’s charities during the holiday season. This was only possible thanks to the incredible generosity of our customers across the province and our dedicated retail teams. February was Black History Month, and we were proud to join the province in celebrating the meaningful contributions Black Ontarians have made over the decades. The LCBO is committed to building a culture where every employee feels valued, respected and heard, and to continuing the work still to be done to address racism and injustice in Ontario. This March, we launched our annual Equity campaign in support of International Women’s D ay . Across our stores and online we spotlighted women who are leading in the beverage alcohol industry. From master blenders and winemakers to CEOs and microbiologists, we celebrated their talents, expertise and products which we’re proud to offer to our customers. We were equally proud to announce new scholarship recipients as part of our Spirit of Inclusion program. Together with our Good Partners, we are creating opportunities for diverse women to thrive through scholarships, bursaries and mentorship opportunities. It’s all part of our Spirit of Sustainability platform and our commitment to enhance industry diversity. Please visit LCBO.com/sustainability to learn more. I would also like to offer sincere thanks to all our customers who supported our annual fundraising efforts for the Women’s College Hospital Foundation as it seeks to transform healthcare for groups facing social and economic marginalization
across Ontario. Over the last four years, we have collectively raised over $5 million for the hospital. Our social impact continues in April, with the launch of our Shine Sustainable campaign, which makes it easy for customers to shop for sustainable products from our Good Partners who are taking steps to protect the environment. We’re also sharing the ways in which the LCBO is reducing its own carbon footprint by transitioning to eco-friendly gift cards, offering reusable recycled bags instore, and expanding its lightweight bottle program. Throughout the month, we will be fundraising in all our stores for Tree Canada, the only national non-profit organization dedicated to planting and nurturing trees in rural and urban environments across the country. The LCBO has a goal of planting 91,000 trees to benefit generations to come. Wishing you a safe and enjoyable springtime.
GEORGE SOLEAS President & CEO, LCBO
PHOTOGRAPH BY LCBO BROADCAST PRODUCTION
12 FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023
Spring Is In!
While officially here, spring still feels a little way off as we soldier on through the last wintery days of March and early April. Focusing a keen eye on the future, in this issue we embrace the new season with a trend report on what you can expect to be sipping when it finally comes time to raise a cocktail and toast the first warmer days of the year. In “Spring Drinks Forecast,” our Drinks Editor, Charlene Rooke, casts a critical eye on what cocktail trends she thinks are here to last, then rolls them up into four drinks that will put you on the cutting edge of cocktail culture all year long. She also has a bit of fun with a nod to some of the passing fads that you are no doubt seeing on your timelines. Read all about them, starting on page 76. Tasting flights have also been trending more and more in restaurants, moving beyond drinks to include food flights, as well: so why not combine the two? We’ve done just that
use a little pop of colour. In “Pretty Please” on page 64, you’ll find our cover star, plus a few other recipes that are sure to be a welcome visual and taste sensation no matter the occasion. “Playing Favourites” on page 39 takes traditional spring dishes and gives them a flavour twist to liven up your recipe repertoire—ham and cheese hot cross buns anyone? And finally, on page 53, if winter is still holding on tight, curl up with another comfort food meal (created just for two) and press play on your favourite show for one more cozy night in. No matter the weather, we hope you enjoy the season and this issue!
starting on page 97 with wine, cocktail and beer flights that each have their own small bites to serve alongside—a novel entertaining idea, and a good way to share the load, the next time you get together with friends. Of course, the biggest trend this time of year is the shift in our appetites towards lighter, fresher fare and drinks. On page 47, we take a look at “The Softer Side of Red” and suggest lighter styles and varietals that are a nice contrast to the heavier reds we’ve been drinking all winter. Sprouts and microgreens are starting to pop up and we have jumped on those for a burst of fresh flavour with five delectable recipes—including a Monte Cristo sandwich that is perfect for brunch —starting on page 70. Family gatherings are also on the horizon, and those celebrations can always
You’ll find lots of tips and ideas for how to eat and drink more sustainably in our “Inside Scoop” section starting on page 21, but to learn more about all that the LCBO is doing to create a more sustainable Ontario, check out the annual Spirit of Sustainability Impact Report—and more—online at lcbo.com/sustainability.
JODY DUNN Editor, LCBO Food & Drink
PHOTOGRAPH BY JAMES TSE
14 FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023
A BEYOND APPROACHABLE, LESS BITTER IPA
CRAFTED WITH CRYO HOPS®
PRICE IS SUBJECTTO CHANGE. WHILE SUPPLIES LAST. MUST BE LEGAL DRINKING AGE
Looking for products that share your values? Take your pick of wines, spirits, craft beers and hard seltzers from producers that are doing their part for the planet. These environmental leaders are part of LCBO’s Spirit of Sustainability Good Partners program, which is dedicated to improving sustainability, and they’re making a difference right in our own backyards and in the wider world. Let’s take a look behind the scenes: Wineries like Gérard Bertrand, Trinity Oaks and Andrew Peller craft these signature bottles with sustainable approaches that protect and respect the earth. Distillers like Vodkow, Bacardi (Patrón) and Flor de Caña use sustainably sourced ingredients and eco-friendly methods that help them tread lightly on the planet. Labatt opts for sustainable packaging alternatives that reduce its overall environmental footprint, while Molson Coors is helping restore the GTA’s Mimico Creek watershed with every purchase made. Whitewater Brewing Co., Canada’s first climate neutral brewery, uses renewable energy to brew its beer. By choosing to support brands like our Good Partners, you can enjoy delicious, quality products and feel good about doing your part for a brighter tomorrow. SUSTAINABLE CHOICES MADE EASY
Local and ethically sourced ingredients
Whitewater Brewing Co. BloodMoon Orange Sour 11226 l 473 mL Medium & Tart l $3.85
Coors Seltzer Splash Pack
Good Natured Crisp Chardonnay VQA 19338 l 750 mL Light & Crisp (D – 8 g/L) | $13.95
24431 l 12 x 355 mL Variety Pack l $26.95
1 pack = 1,000 litres of water restored
A carbon neutral vodka
Distilled with 100% renewable energy
1 bottle = 1 tree planted
Vodkow 11573 l 750 mL Clean & Creamy l $32.95
Flor de Caña Centenario 12 Year Rum 158014 l 750 mL Medium & Nutty l $47.95
Corona Extra 17817 l 6 x 473 mL Light & Malty l $20.95
Gérard Bertrand Gris Blanc Rosé A Vintages Essential 14673 l 750 mL Medium-bodied & Dry (XD – 2 g/L) | $15.95
Patron Reposado Tequila 50088 l 750 mL Warm & Fruity l $93.95
Trinity Oaks Chardonnay 15762 l 750 mL Full-bodied & Rich (D – 7 g/L) | $18.05
Featured products are available at select LCBO stores. Prices subject to change without notice. *VINTAGES Essentials Collection is always available at many LCBO locations. Visit lcbo.com/vintages-essentials
Join us for a summer of seaside culinary delights, frosty craft beers and artisanal cocktails, and the kind of carefree, soul-stirring memories you can’t make anywhere but here, in NEW BRUNSWICK. Come on Over!
more to-dos 3
1. Ocean-Floor Fine Dining At low tide, journey to the magical St. Martins Sea Caves for a special culinary event hosted by Bay of Fundy Adventures. Surrounded by red sea cliffs, you’ll savour a five-course meal that highlights more than 30 New Brunswick sourced ingredients, all thoughtfully prepared and presented by The Kilted Chef, Alain Bosse. bayoffundyadventures.com
2. Maritime Glamping Cielo takes the glam camping trend to the next level with luxury domes and a bustling central Hub featuring live music, a bar, and oysters harvested in front of the property. Kite surf and kayak by day, then relax by the firepit with a sharing board of local cheeses, charcuterie, crackers, and jellies. glampingcielo.com
3. Champagne Wishes & Caviar Dreams Drive 45 minutes from Saint John to Carters Point to visit the family-run, Ocean-Wise certified Acadian Sturgeon & Caviar. Book ahead for a tasting with vodka or Champagne, or, if you’re craving extraordinary memories, reserve the Sturgeon & Caviar Safari — an unforgettable half-day itinerary that’s unique in the world. acadian-sturgeon.com
Tradition with a Twist Have you ever heard of Seacuterie? Seaside Grazing Co.’s ocean-forward take on a charcuterie board is a game-changer, especially when you can order up your choice of board, box, or picnic basket and enjoy it at Shediac’s Hotel du Vieux Port or the oceanfront location of your choice. seasidegrazingco.ca
THERE ’ S ALWAYS AN EXTRA
SEAT AT OUR TABLE
A LWAY S I N V I T I N G T o u r i s mN ewB r u n s w i c k . c a
ACADIAN COAST LOBSTER BOIL
Please drink responsibly.
Inside Scoop The latest bits, bites and sips to keep you in the know. BY ERIC VELLEND
Visit lcbo.com/ fdcocktail to watch this drink being made.
The last dregs of jam and a few sprigs of wilted herbs are upcycled into a Gin & Jam Smash, a fragrant and refreshing drink. For this recipe and more tips on reducing waste at the bar, check out Waste Not on page 108. Smash Hit COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH
PHOTOGRAPHY BY DARREN KEMPER; FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTOPHER ST. ONGE; PROP STYLING BY SHELLY SHNIER
FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023 21
SUSTAINABLE BRINE AND DINE
WHAT ’ S NEW Grape Escape
Just in time for spring sipping, the LCBO has released a bunch of affordable Italian whites made from indigenous grape varietals. As a little primer, we’ve broken down the wines by grape with a recommendation for each.
PICKLE Pickle “juice” can be used for everything from brining or marinating meat or fish to steaming vegetables. Throw dill pickle brine in water for boiling potatoes, and pickled jalapeño “juice” into mayo to make it pop. FETA When used as a marinade, creamy feta brine will help meats like pork chops caramelize in the pan. It’s also terrific in a dressing for broccoli or eggplant, or added to water Whether you’re partial to pickles, olives or feta, don’t throw out the brine they’re packed in! The salty liquid has many delicious uses. Here’s how to make the most of it. BY CAROL DUDAR for cooking grains. And a splash will bring a unique twist to a Dirty Martini! OLIVE Olive brine can be deployed just like pickle “juice”. It is, however, strong stuff, so use it where the olive flavour works, such as for marinating lamb. Try it in our Roasted Olive Brined Broccolini with Lemons, Olives & Mint (page 108).
GRILLO Used in the production of Marsala, this Sicilian grape is built to handle the island’s extreme heat. It produces medium-bodied whites with citrusy notes, bright acidity and a touch of salinity. Gloria Grillo DOC Organic LCBO 31003, $14.95
VERMENTINO Grown primarily in
PECORINO Not to be confused with the cheese of the same name, Pecorino is an ancient grape making a comeback in central Italy. Expect fresh, fruity and floral wines with great minerality
Sardinia and northwest Italy, Vermentino yields light- to medium-bodied wines with citrusy and almond flavours and a pleasantly bitter finish. Villa Puccini Vermentino Toscana LCBO 30955, $14.40
and a rich mouth feel. With Love Pecorino LCBO 31487, $15.95
22 FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023
Our superpower is making economy air travel an enjoyable experience We don't wear capes, but we do offer a warm welcome to everyone on our enjoyable all-economy flights. We offer complimentary beer, wine & premium snacks. For everyone! No middle seats. Ever! And on flights to Western Canada aboard our brand-new jets, complimentary fast WiFi, free streamed entertainment and fresh, healthy meal options will enhance your travel even more. Pretty powerful stuff!
Actually enjoy economy.
Toronto Pearson | Toronto Billy Bishop | Calgary | Edmonton | Fredericton
Halifax | Moncton | Mont-Tremblant | Montréal | Ottawa | Québec City
Sault Ste. Marie | St. John's | Sudbury | Thunder Bay | Timmins | Vancouver
Windsor | Boston | Chicago | New York | Washington, DC | Many more coming soon!
SUSTAINABLE On Appeal
It’s time to think outside the banana and eat the peel as well! Invariably tossed into the green bin, banana peels are perfectly edible and full of nutrients. You might think they’re fibrous and bitter, but very ripe bananas have peels that are soft and sweet. They’re cooked into a range of dishes around the world, from thoran stir fries in Kerala, India, to Southeast Asian curries. Because of their texture, banana peels can be transformed into meat substitutes, including faux pulled pork and ground beef. They’re also wonderful in chutneys and baked goods. Give them a whirl in our scrumptious Banana Peel Oat Loaf (page 108). BY IRENE MATYS
SUSTAINABLE WATER WELL In honour of Earth Day (April 22), here are a few tips on conserving water in the kitchen. 1 Instead of washing produce under running water, clean it in a mixing bowl filled with water, changing the water when necessary. 2 Keep a pail in the kitchen to save water from washing produce, rinsing rice, even the dregs from water bottles. Then, use it to water houseplants or your garden. 3 Instead of boiling vegetables in a large pot of water, cover and shallow-boil in 3/4 inch (2 cm) of water, stirring occasionally. This will also reduce salt use.
PANTRY RESCUE SOUR TIMES
You bought a jar of capers to garnish a smoked salmon platter, and the rest have been languishing in the fridge for months. Salty, sour and loaded with umami, capers can add a wallop of flavour to a wide range of dishes. Throw them into gravy for chicken, pork or veal. Chop and stir into pesto for a punchy sandwich spread. You can also shallow-fry capers in olive oil until crispy and sprinkle on seafood pasta or roasted cauliflower.
ILLUSTRATION BY DAVID SPARSHOTT
24 FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023
COMING THIS SPRING
SHOP & EARN
While shopping at the LCBO, you can earn Aeroplan® bonus points on every purchase (one point for every $4) plus extra on limited-time promotions. Here are three lovely rosés, both still and sparkling, that will rack up some points. They’re great for gifting or pouring at brunch, and the offer is good until April 22. For more information, including other offers and how to sign up, visit lcbo.com/aeroplan.
Trius Brut Rosé Sparkling VQA LCBO 17690, $29.95
To the Rescue! ASK AN EXPERT
La Vieille Ferme Rosé Ventoux AOC LCBO 622134, $15.00
To get some tips on reducing food waste at home, we talked to Lori Nikkel, CEO of Second Harvest, a nonprofit organization dedicated to rescuing food destined for landfills and redirecting it to Canadians in need.
it inside. I buy meat marked down 50 per cent and put it right in the freezer.” When Nikkel wants to clear out her fridge, freezer and pantry, she’ll throw everything in a soup, pasta sauce, stir-fry or scrambled eggs. For less confident cooks, she recommends Google. “Take the food that you have and put it in your search bar, and recipes will just show up!” Nikkel also suggests people learn how to resuscitate food they would normally throw out. For example, wilted leafy greens can be simply trimmed and revived in a bowl of ice water. “If your onion sprouts, you can just plant it!” For more information on reducing food waste at home or at your business, visit secondharvest.ca for webinars, interactive workshops, tools and other resources.
When it comes to cutting down on food waste, one of her basic strategies is shopping. “Buy less. Save yourself some money. You don’t need all the food you’re buying,” says Nikkel. “Never buy bulk unless you’re having a party. As for ‘buy one, get one free,’ it’s not a deal when you throw half out.” Another tip is to not take best-before dates literally. “They do not mean ‘bad after.’ Best before dates are conservative—no need to throw anything away at the stroke of midnight.” She does stress: “We’re never advocating for eating bad food. If it looks bad or smells bad, don’t eat it. If you’re not comfortable making that decision yourself, there are lots of resources on our website.” One of the most effective tools to fight food waste is the freezer. “The freezer stops the degradation the second you put
Barefoot Cellars Pink Moscato LCBO 642983, $11.45
Aeroplan® is a registered trademark of Aeroplan Inc., used under license. The Air Canada maple leaf logo® is a registered trademark of Air Canada, used under license.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY WADE HUDSON
26 FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023
UNCOMPLICATED TEQUILA SODA MADE WITH BLUE AGAVE TEQUILA
@ wyattroseranchwater DISCOVER MORE
Please drink responsibly ©2023 Wyatt Rose Beverages
SEASONAL SIPS High Lite
When the first flowers break ground, it’s time to start making the transition to lighter libations. To get you started, we’re suggesting a few refreshing, low-calorie highballs made with white spirits and flavoured soda waters. Simply stir 1 1/2 oz liquor with 4 oz chilled soda in a tall glass filled with ice. Garnish and raise a glass to spring!
white rum + Sparkling Ice Coconut Pineapple
blanco tequila + Perrier Pink Grapefruit
vodka + LaCroix Razz-Cranberry
San Pellegrino Essenza Lemon & Lemon Zest
SUSTAINABLE B KIND
Unlike most corporate designations, B Corp Certification is more holistic,
measuring how a company creates value for its employees and community along with being gentle on the environment. The nonprofit network B Lab sets high standards for both achieving and maintaining the certification, which builds trust with everyone from customers to suppliers. If you’re looking to support B Corp–certified companies at the LCBO, we’ve included a few options here or discover more at bcorporation.net.
Bench Brewing Lincoln Lager LCBO 16954, 473 mL, $3.35 A to Z Wineworks Pinot Noir
VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 229781, $27.95 Bruichladdich The Botanist Islay Dry Gin LCBO 358192, $57.95
28 FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023
LOOK! FRESH new
Crafted IN ONTARIO
@georgianbayspiritco DISCOVER MORE
Please Enjoy Responsibly © 2023 Georgian Bay Spirit Co.™
LOW & NO ZEROING IN While there are a host of non-alcoholic beers, wines and spirits at the LCBO—just search “non-alcoholic” at LCBO.com or ask a product consultant—Clear Sips (clearsips.ca) has become another favourite source for buzz-free beverages. The Ontario-based, family-run company imports, distributes and retails a wide range of coveted zero-alcohol products, from the “wines” of Oddbird to the “spirits” of Solbrü.
GIFTING BAG, YOU’RE IT!
Whether you’re bringing a bottle for Easter dinner or a Passover seder, arrive in style with the LCBO’s seasonal gift bags. Done in lavender and green with yellow accents, the lovely floral pattern shouts, “Spring is here!” A gift tag hangs from the ribbon handle, allowing you to personalize. Bonus: LCBO gift cards are available in the same spring motif.
Spring 2-Bottle Bag LCBO 30914, $4.95 Spring Gift Bag LCBO 30913, $2.95
Ham It Up For a twist on the same old ham this Easter, check out the F&D archives for a host of terrific recipes.
3. To kill two birds with one stone, Easter Ham with Roasted Veggies, Apples & Pecans in a Spicy Rye & Maple Glaze bakes the ham on top of a raft of root vegetables and leeks for a delicious built-in side dish.
2. With the inevitable leftovers, try making
1. Instead of traditional
our gloriously messy Panko Crisped Ham,
pineapple, candied orange and lemon slices are clove spiked onto Whole Citrus-Candied Ham for a sweet sour flavour and an august presentation.
Caramelized Onions & Gouda Sandwich for breakfast or lunch the next day
Find these recipes at lcbo.com/fdspring23
CANDLES, FROM MMANN CANDLES, MMANN.CO
30 FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023
Please enjoy responsibly. La Vieille Ferme Cotes du Luberon, LCBO# 298505.
Trendspotting A roundup of what we’re into this season.
Dandelion 101 While they’re the scourge of lawn lovers everywhere, dandelions have re-emerged as a food trend lately, thanks to health-conscious TikTokers. Packed with nutrients and offering many other purported health benefits, the plant and all its parts are now being used in everything from herbal teas to cocktail bitters. FLOWERS Since dandelion flowers are tricky to harvest and dry, they are rarely used commercially. There are, however, a few ways dedicated foragers can use fresh dandelion flowers at home. They can be steeped in hot water with lemon and honey for tea, or used to make a mead-like wine with citrus fruit, raisins and sugar. LEAVES Spiky dandelion leaves are ferociously bitter, but they can still be enjoyed raw in salads mixed with sweeter lettuces. More commonly, they’re cooked, either boiled and dressed with olive oil and lemon, or sautéed with bacon. The leaves are also dried and used in tea. Try Herbaria Dandelion Leaves 25 Tea Bags ($3.99, qinatural.ca) prized part of the plant. Roasted and ground, they make a popular caffeine-free coffee substitute— try Dandy Blend Instant Herbal Beverage with Dandelion (200 g, $24.95, well.ca). The rich flavour also works well in cocktail bitters like Rootside Roasted Dandelion Bitters (148 mL, $25, cocktailemporium.com). ROOTS Dandelion roots are the most
NEW BREWS As we say goodbye to wintery ales and heavy
stouts, we say hello to dozens of new and interesting local beers hitting the LCBO shelves this spring. From a classic wheat beer, to a fruity sour, to a New England-style IPA, here are three we’re especially excited about.
Muddy York Haberdasher Hefeweizen LCBO 32042, 473 mL, $3.35 A German-style wheat beer that offers up classic aromas and flavours of banana, clove and a touch of honey.
Rum Diary An essential bottle in every rum aficionado’s cabinet, Smith & Cross Traditional Jamaican Rum (LCBO 402834, $49.95) is one of the boldest spirits on the planet. It has funky flavours and navy strength (57%ABV), so a little goes a long way. Try it in tropical drinks that call for a small measure of Jamaican rum.
Prince Eddy’s Moon Patrol Guava Gose LCBO 31561, 355 mL, $3.95 Pouring an opaque orange-pink, this tropical sour refresher has the
added benefit of being only 3.5% ABV.
FRENCH PRESS If you like French wine and care about the environment, then check out Gérard Bertrand. The Languedoc winery is strongly invested in sustainability practices, and many of its wines are organic, biodynamic and/or bee-friendly. Working with CAB (Conversion en Agriculture Biologique), the winery is committed to making the jump from traditional to organic viticulture, which will help preserve the biodiversity of its vineyards and produce terroir-driven wines.
Walkerville Electric Haze Juicy IPA LCBO 32046, 473 mL, $3.95 Living up to its name, this hazy, New England–style IPA delivers bright citrus flavours with balanced bitterness.
Change Cabernet Sauvignon Organic LCBO 30349, $15.95
32 FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023
A SIP WITH ZIP.
MEXICAN INSPIRED LIGHT LAGER 4% ABV
PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY.
As the days get lighter and brighter here in Ontario, so too should your wine list. Ontario is spoiled for choice when it comes to finding crisp, food-friendly varietals that bring home great value. Ontario wines are fresher and lighter, with a refreshing acidity that makes them ideal dinner companions. Signature varietals like a smoky Pinot Noir and delicate yet dry Niagara Chardonnay pair beautifully with spring-inspired menus, from lamb to fresh spring vegetables and even classic appetizers like devilled eggs. DISCOVER VALUE WITH ONTARIO VQA
Refresh your sipping with some of the region’s best value wines.
Peninsula Ridge Inox Chardonnay VQA 594200 l 750 mL Light & Crisp l (XD – 2 g/L) $16.95 An unoaked Chard, this is delightfully dry with delicate apple, ripe Asian pear and lemon notes. 80 AEROPLAN PTS
Malivoire Estate Grown Chardonnay VQA A Vintages Essential 573147 l 750 mL Full-bodied and Rich (XD – 4 g/L) Reg. $21.95 l Now $19.95 Save $2.00 A superb Chardonnay that offers complex baked apple, caramel and toasty oak flavours.
Inniskillin Pinot Noir VQA 261099 l 750 mL Medium-bodied & Fruity (XD – 5 g/L) l $16.45 This local red’s smoky aromas lead to dark plum
and earthy flavours. Try with spring lamb. 100 AEROPLAN PTS
Featured products are available at select LCBO stores. Prices subject to change without notice. *VINTAGES Essentials Collection is always available at many LCBO locations. Visit LCBO.com/vintages-essentials Aeroplan offers in effect March 26 – April 22, 2023. Visit LCBO.com/aeroplan for full terms and conditions. ®Aeroplan is a registered trademark of Aeroplan Inc., used under license. ®The Air Canada maple leaf logo is a registered trademark of Air Canada, used under license.
GÉRARD BERTRAND, NATURE AT HEART W ith 17 Châteaux and estates located on the most remarkable terroirs of the South of France, Gérard Bertrand is the Ambassador of Great Wines of Languedoc all over the world. He practices biodynamics on all his vineyards and pays attention to the thousand and one details to create wines of precision and finesse. ADVERTISING FEATURE
G érard Bertrand began converting his estates to biodynamics early in 2002, starting with 5 hectares at Domaine de Cigalus. He immediately noticed the benefits of biodynamics on the ecosystem and was convinced that it is the best way to bring wines to the highest level of excellence. 20 years later, all 17 estates, which represents almost 1000 hectares, are now certified. A rare savoir-faire which makes Gérard Bertrand and his team an international reference of Biodynamics. G érard Bertrand is convinced that viticulture must be exemplary and must inspire all agriculture. This is why he decided to extend his impact on the Languedoc vineyard through a 10-year long-term partnership to accompany local growers in their conversion to organic farming.
“ Why must viticulture be exemplary? Our convictions, and my convictions, are that if viticulture changes, it will inspire all agriculture. Viticulture is perhaps the most successful form of agriculture since wine is a transcendent and transcendental product and raises consciousness Gérard Bertrand T hrough those partnerships a unique range of Gérard Bertrand wines with 6 levels of certifications from Organic to Bee Friendly, Vegan, Sulphite free and Biodynamic , is now available worldwide. In the Cévennes valley for instance, Gerard Bertrand with his partners promote biodiversity and take actions to protect pollinating insects. Already recognized for the amazing quality of his rosé brands : Cotes des Roses delicious and round, and Gris Blanc pure and crystalline, Gerard Bertrand is now in the Orange wine category with Orange Gold, a fresh and very elegant style. Always looking forward to the next step, Gerard Bertrand is on the path to be certified Carbon Neutral by 2024. T he Drinks Business has named Gérard Bertrand ‘Green Personality of the Year’, a title that honours individuals who excel in furthering environmental causes by working to spread the word within their company and to a wider audience. Gérard Bertrand also received the Robert Parker Green Emblem which highlights the way he conducts all his activities with the aim of building a better world. “
Be the change
• Cote des roses Rosé - $19.95 - LCBO 373985 - Sustainable viticulture • Orange Gold - $26.95 - LCBO 23729 - Organic • Change Cabernet Sauvignon - $15.95 - LCBO 30349 - Organic • Château l’Hospitalet Grand Vin - $48.00 - LCBO 30362 - Demeter • Gris Blanc - $15.95 - LCBO 14673 - Organic • Domaine de l’Aigle Chardonnay - $38.95 - LCBO 377671 - Demeter • Domaine de l’Aigle Pinot Noir - $38.95 - LCBO 10015 - Demeter • Pollinat Syrah - $19.95 - LCBO 29506 - Organic & Bee Friendly
LCBO #303800 $27.95 reg price
$29.95 reg price
$19.95 reg price
Playing Favourites Fresh seasonal ingredients bring new life to spring’s most beloved dishes, from matzo ball soup and hot cross buns to a classic chicken. TWISTS BY ERIC VELLEND | PHOTOGRAPHY BY MAYA VISNYEI
HAM & CHEESE HOTCROSS BUNS WITH CHIVE BUTTER P. 109
FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTOPHER ST. ONGE; PROP STYLING BY ANDREA MCCRINDLE
FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023 39
Smashed Eggs on Toast with Asparagus,
Anchovies & Mint This open-faced breakfast sandwich stars creamy soft boiled eggs, sweet asparagus and salty anchovies on mayo slathered toasts. It can be a bit awkward to eat with your hands, so serve it with a knife and fork. Adapted from a recipe by Ari Laing (wellseasonedstudio.com). If you’re looking for a good mayo recipe, try our Hand-Blender Mayo at LCBO.com. 1 bunch asparagus, about 1 lb (455 g), woody ends trimmed 6 large eggs 1 tbsp (15 mL) unsalted butter Salt and freshly ground pepper 4 thick slices sourdough bread, cut from centre of loaf 2 cloves garlic, peeled, halved lengthwise 1/4 cup (60 mL) mayonnaise, preferably homemade 10 anchovy fillets, drained, halved lengthwise Chili flakes and chopped mint to garnish 1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Boil asparagus until tender, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a bowl of ice water to cool. Drain and dry on a clean kitchen towel. (Cooked asparagus can be covered and refrigerated up to 1 day.) 2. Bring 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Carefully lower eggs into water with a slotted spoon. Cover and reduce heat to maintain a vigorous simmer. Cook 6 1/2 minutes. Carefully transfer eggs to a bowl of ice water. Cool 2 minutes then remove from water and peel. Set aside. 3. Heat butter in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add asparagus, salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally,
to plates. Smear each toast with 1 tbsp (15 mL) mayo. Halve eggs lengthwise. Place 3 halves on each toast and smash with a fork. Season with salt. Top each toast with enough asparagus to cover, 4 to 6 spears. (Save rest for another use.) Divide anchovies between toasts. Sprinkle with chili flakes and mint. Serve immediately.
until just heated through, 2 to 3 minutes.
[ WHAT TO SERVE ] Château des Charmes Brut Sparkling VQA VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 224766, $25.95 The herbal and brioche notes of this wine will highlight the dish’s elements. A fine mousse
4. While asparagus is warming, set an oven rack on top shelf. Preheat broiler to high. 5. Place bread slices on a foil-lined heavy-duty baking tray. Broil on top shelf until nicely browned, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Rub each toast with cut side of garlic. Transfer
of bubbles and laser-like acidity cleanse the palate.
40 FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023
FROM PINOT TO PARIS
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Scan or visit aircanada.com/join to sign up for free. Plus, earn more bonus points with over 200 of your favourite retailers.
®Aeroplan is a registered trademark of Aeroplan Inc., used under licence. ®The Air Canada maple leaf logo is a registered trademark of Air Canada, used under licence. Starbucks and the Starbucks logos are registered trademarks of Starbucks Corporation.
Matzo Ball Soup with Spring Vegetables
In this bright spin on a beloved soup, pillowy-soft matzo balls are served in a clear chicken broth with barely cooked green vegetables. Vegetarians can use vegetable oil instead of duck fat and vegetable stock in place of chicken. MATZO BALLS 4 large eggs, at room temperature 2 tbsp (30 mL) melted duck fat or vegetable oil 1 tsp (5 mL) baking powder 1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt 1/4 cup (60 mL) chicken stock 1 cup (250 mL) matzo meal 6 green onions (white parts only), sliced on bias, 1/2 inch (1 cm) thick 5 oz (140 g) sugar snap peas, strings removed, cut into 1/2 -inch (1-cm) pieces 4 cups (1 L) loosely packed baby spinach Tarragon leaves to garnish 1. For the matzo balls, whisk eggs, duck fat or oil, baking powder, salt and stock in a medium mixing bowl until smooth. With a spatula, fold in matzo meal until combined. Cover and refrigerate 1 hour. 2. Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. With oiled hands, form a heaping tablespoon of matzo mixture into a ball—it should be about 1 1/2 inches (4 cm) in diameter. Place on a baking sheet. Repeat until mixture is used up. Carefully add balls one at a time to boiling water. Cover and adjust heat to maintain vigorous simmer. Cook until matzo balls are soft SOUP 8 cups (2 L) chicken stock, preferably homemade Salt to taste
and cooked through, about 35 minutes. (Cut into one to see.) Gently transfer with a slotted spoon to a baking sheet. (Matzo balls can be cooled, covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days.) 3. For the soup, bring stock to a boil in a large pot. Season with salt. (If the matzo balls were
refrigerated, microwave, partially covered, for 1 minute.) Add matzo balls, green onions, sugar snap peas and spinach. Simmer until vegetables are tender and matzo balls are hot, 2 to 3 minutes. Ladle into warm bowls. Garnish with tarragon.
[ WHAT TO SERVE ] Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc LCBO 308288, $19.95 Vibrant acidity balances the flavours of the matzo balls. Sugar snap peas will complement the green notes of the wine.
Serves 6 to 8
42 FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023
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White Cut Chicken with Ginger-Scallion Sauce I’ve been making this succulent Cantonese poached chicken (bak chit gai) for almost 20 years with two minor tweaks. Instead of chopping it into small pieces, I carve it like a roast chicken. I also add rice vinegar and cilantro to the accompanying ginger-scallion sauce, though it’s equally delicious without them. Available at Chinese supermarkets, Shaoxing is a nutty aged rice wine for cooking. GINGER-SCALLION SAUCE 1 cup (250 mL) thinly sliced green onions (4 to 5) 3 tbsp (45 mL) minced ginger Fine sea salt to taste 1/2 cup (125 mL) canola or sunflower oil 1 tbsp (15 mL) rice vinegar 1/3 cup (80 mL) chopped cilantro CHICKEN 4-lb (1.81-kg) whole chicken 12 cups (3 L) water 1 cup (250 mL) Shaoxing cooking wine 6 slices ginger 6 green onions, cut into 3-inch (8 cm) lengths 6 cloves garlic, unpeeled, lightly crushed 1. For the ginger-scallion sauce, place green onions and ginger in a heatproof bowl. Season with salt and mix. 2. In a small saucepan, heat oil over high heat. When it’s very hot, about 375°F (191°C), slowly and carefully pour over green onion mixture. Mix with a spoon and cool completely. Transfer to an airtight container. Refrigerate at least 4 hours and up to 1 week. When ready to serve, stir in rice vinegar and cilantro then taste for salt. 1 tbsp (15 mL) fine sea salt 1/2 bunch watercress, tough stems removed Coarse sea salt for serving
Flip chicken so it’s breast side up. (It’s okay if tops of breasts and drumsticks aren’t submerged.) Simmer another 15 minutes. Cover pot with lid and remove from heat. Steep chicken until cooked through, about 45 more minutes. 5. Carefully transfer chicken to a cooling rack set over a baking sheet and rest 15 to 20 minutes. (Strain, cool and save cooking liquid for Chinese recipes calling for chicken stock.)
3. For the chicken, rinse chicken under cold running water. Transfer to a roasting pan and let sit at room temperature for 1 hour. (This will help the chicken cook faster and more evenly.) 4. In a deep 6-quart (5.5-L) pot, bring water, cooking wine, ginger, green onions, garlic and salt to a boil. Carefully lower the chicken in breast side down. (It’s okay if the back isn’t completely submerged.) Reduce heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook for 15 minutes.
6. Carve chicken into serving pieces. Arrange on a platter lined with watercress. Serve with sauce and coarse salt.
Serves 4 to 6
[ WHAT TO SERVE ] Thirty Bench Winemaker’s Blend Riesling VQA VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 24133, $22.95 A slight sweetness and fruit flavours bring out the best in this tangy dish. Steely acidity will enhance the flavours.
44 FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023
The $17 solution. Great-value wines.
Awine of energy and charm, with lifted ripe fruit and touches of tobacco, chocolate and spice. Awinning choice for black-bean burgers. FINCA SOPHENIA ALTOSUR MALBEC 2021 Gualtallary, Tupungato, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina 13113 (XD) 750 mL $17.00 2 Full-bodied & Smooth 97 points (Decanter World Wine Awards) Ripe and juicy, with cassis, blackberry, pepper, and a really nice underlying note of roasted apple wood. Try it with cola marinated barbecued ribs. LOUIS BERNARD LOUIS CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES 2020 AP, Rhône, France 561290 (XD) 750 mL $17.00 1 Full-bodied & Smooth 90 points (James Molesworth)
$17 SOLUTION. AVAILABLE ONLINE AND IN STORES MARCH 4, 2023.
Featured products may not be available in all Vintages locations. Visit LCBO.com/vintages for availability and store locations. Prices subject to change.
Backsplash and Countertop: Artico Ocean Marble | Flooring: Arboro Collection - Rochester
BEYOND MATER I AL
MARBLE | PORCELAIN | MOSAIC | CERAMIC | TERRAZZO | HARDWOOD
The Softer Side of Red WINE
Make the transition from the big bold reds of winter to something lighter and brighter as we embrace the arrival of spring. BY DOUG WALLACE PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE
Tomato & Bocconcini-Stuffed Mushrooms with Mixed Greens LCBO.com/fdspring23
Wines made of Pinot Noir can offer full flavours of cherry and raspberry, with floral and spicy undertones. The grape favours the long, cool growing seasons of Ontario and B.C., California and Oregon, France and Germany, with traits varying between regions. Ontario Pinots Noirs tend to be light-tasting, while California styles are lush. Pinot Noir Agility
Rosehall Run Pinot Noir VQA LCBO 307769, $19.95 This smooth Prince Edward County gem hits notes of berries and plums, plus a hint of smoke. PAIR IT Call on Pinot Noirs for serving with pork, chicken or duck, or to go with umami dishes integrating mushrooms, tomatoes or cheese. They are very food-friendly, thanks to low tannins and high acidity.
NEW! Bar Dog Pinot Noir LCBO 28559, $17.95
Floral aromas give way to juicy red-fruit flavours of cherry and strawberry in this California Pinot.
Konzelmann Pinot Noir VQA LCBO 200584, $16.95
Find floral and spicy aromas, and flavours of cherries and licorice in this easy-drinking and aromatic Niagara red.
PINOT PERK Pinot Noir grapes have higher levels of polyphenols than other red wines. These are natural compounds with a high concentration of antioxidants.
FOOD STYLING BY LINDSAY GUSCOTT; PROP STYLING BY GENEVIEVE WISEMAN
FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023 47
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