LCBO Food and Drink Autumn 2016

AUTUMN 2016

REDEFINING YOUR LUXURY

V A C A T I O N

A CRAFTED CULINARY EXPERIENCE Delectable scents, rich flavors, and sumptuous ingredients combined to make hearty meals. We understand that quality and quantity should not be interchangeable, but rather work side by side in perfect harmony. That’s why the Karisma Gourmet Inclusive® Experience offers all you can enjoy dining to all guests, with only the finest, freshest ingredients.

ELEVATED, ELEGANT PREMIUM DRINKS At Karisma Hotels & Resorts, our mixed cocktails, wines, and beers are served to satisfy and surprise every taste. We believe that a vacation should be accompanied with a wide selection of fine refreshments. Award winning and downright delicious, our offerings will not disappoint.

Escape to paradise now, visit itravel2000.com or Call 1.866.WOW.DEAL and enjoy all you can eat and drink in paradise!

MDX T H E S U V W I T H S U P E R C A R D N A .

T H E R E D E S I GN E D 2 01 7 A C U R A M DX .

S TA R T I NG AT $ 5 3 , 6 9 0*.

2017 Acura MDX Elite shown.

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*Prices not applicable in Quebec. MSRP is $53,690 // $65,790 on a new 2017 Acura MDX (YD4H2HJNX) // model shown, a new 2017 Acura MDX Elite (YD4H8HKN). Prices exclude $2,045 freight and PDI, fees, license, insurance, registration, and taxes. Some terms/conditions apply. Model shown for illustration purposes only. Offer is subject to change or cancellation without notice. Dealer may sell for less. Dealer order/trade may be necessary. While quantities last. Visit acura.ca or your Acura dealer for details. © 2016 Acura, a division of Honda Canada Inc.

TO SEE THIS WEEKEND’S EVENTS VISIT INDIGO.CA/WEEKEND

Indigo, Chapters, Coles & indigo.ca are trademarks of !ndigo Books & Music inc.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

100

FEATURES

100 GOOD STUFF

92 SAVOURING ONTARIO

By Christopher St. Onge Updating the concept of oh-so-familiar stuffed peppers, we present five mouth-watering recipes for stuffing unexpected vegetables: think eggplant, onions and more. By Christopher St. Onge & Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic Inspired by Germany’s Oktoberfest, our hearty, casual meal has a local twist: German-style Ontario craft beer served alongside. ON THE COVER Roast Mediterranean Vegetables & Baked Eggs with Feta, recipe on page 140. Photography by Rob Fiocca.

By James Chatto & Jennifer MacKenzie Local terroir guides the way in creating three perfect food‑and-wine matches—each featuring ingredients from a different region of Ontario.

106 OCTOBER FEAST

78 BREAKING WITH TRADITION By Lucy Waverman

If you’re taking a break from turkey this Thanksgiving, our delectable menu, rich with seasonal flavours, is sure to leave you feeling suitably thankful!

86 APRÈS DINNER By James Chatto

Revive the civilized tradition of offering your guests digestifs, the perfect post-feast way to complete a special meal.

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2016 7

TABLE OF CONTENTS

57

DRINK

WINE ONTARIO WINE STARS By James Chatto

49

With movie stars descending on Toronto for TIFF, we present another kind of star: enduringly classic, best-selling, can’t-miss Ontario wines worthy of standing ovations.

TRENDS LOCAL AUTHORITY By Stephen Beaumont

65

Independent brewing and distilling requires passion, perseverance and luck—just ask these five outstanding Ontario producers.

SPIRITS A TASTE OF FALL By Victoria Walsh

113

No need to give up your favourite summery cocktails—we’ve tweaked them with autumnal flavours to let you linger over summer while easing into fall.

DEPARTMENTS FOOD

BASICS PESTO PAIRINGS By Signe Langford

129

These days, pesto can be made with all kinds of ingredients— our four new standout recipes prove it, paired to great effect with the newest wines on LCBO shelves.

SEASONAL PIE À LA FROMAGE By Monda Rosenberg

39

Elevating the idea of apple pie and cheese, these five sensational pies combine unexpected cheeses and fall fruits with heavenly results. TWISTS TURKEY ON THE Q By Eric Vellend Grilled recipes that offer a whole new array of ways to enjoy the big bird.

IN EVERY ISSUE

EDITOR’S NOTES

12

57

A SPLASH OF AMARO The bittersweet Italian liqueur boosts sweetness and lends complex flavour to caramelized onions in an unforgettable grilled cheese sandwich. WHAT’S NEW A selection of products from around the world available at the LCBO and VINTAGES. MUST-HAVES Things we love for entertaining and around the house.

19

FLAVOURS HOT POTATOES By Marilyn Bentz-Crowley

121

21

Nothing, perhaps, is so versatile as a potato: different varieties, seasonings and cooking methods offer endless possibilities.

26

TRENDSPOTTING On our radar this issue—Canadian whisky.

29

QUICK & EASY SIMPLIFYING SUPPER By Eshun Mott

137

RECIPE INDEX

163

Weeknight suppers just got a whole lot easier, thanks to recipes that require just one baking sheet for cooking the whole meal—simple, tidy, speedy and delicious!

SOURCE RESOURCE

163

FIVE QUESTIONS WITH… Chef de cuisine Coulson Armstrong of celebrity hotspot Canoe discreetly dishes on being dazzled by the stars.

164

8  FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2016

FRESH, FRUITY, AROMATIC

BE BOLD. BE SMOOTH. BE BODACIOUS.

Please drink responsibly.

Publication Director & SVP .........Nancy Cardinal Sales, Marketing & Insights

VP Marketing ..................................Kerri Dawson Editor .................................................Jody Dunn Art Director .....................................Karen Lim Senior Editor ...................................James Chatto Food Editor .......................................Lucy Waverman Contributing Editors ....................Charlene Rooke, Kat Tancock Publication Coordinator ............Leslie Virdo Senior Designer .............................Cathy Cicchini Graphic Designer .........................Pat Turbach Production Manager ...................Mark Greene Production Coordinator .............Judy Haverkort Publication Assistant .................Piper MacFadyen Production Assistant ...................Everton Smith Food Stylists ....................................Eshun Mott, Christopher St. Onge Prop Stylists ....................................Catherine MacFadyen, Andrea McCrindle, Lara McGraw Contributors ...................................Julia Aitken, Stephen Beaumont,

COMING NEXT ISSUE CHRISTMAS AT THE COTTAGE

Marilyn Bentz-Crowley, Cynthia David, Anna Kohn, Signe Langford, Ann Lough, Jennifer MacKenzie, Brenda Morrison, Eshun Mott, Monda Rosenberg, Christopher St. Onge, Eric Vellend, Victoria Walsh, Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic

A deliciously casual affair THE REAL THING Choosing the perfect Champagne WELCOME HOME Hearty family favourites, ready on arrival ONLY THE BEST Premium cuts, first-class wines

Publisher ..........................................Wayne Leek

For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about LCBO products and policy please contact helloLCBO online at hellolcbo.com, or call toll-free 1•800•668•5226 or 416•365•5900. TTY Only: 416•864•6898 or 1•800•361•3291. For advertising in Food & Drink magazine, please contact Keystone Media, 416•224•1500 or e-mail foodanddrink@keystonemedia.ca. All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the LCBO’s advertising agreement. Food & Drink is published six times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Volume 24, Number 1. Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 percent post-consumer fibre. Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs.

Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Drink , 55 Lake Shore Boulevard East, Toronto, ON, M5E 1A4 ISSN 1195-5988

WATCH FOR THE HOL I DAY I S S UE OF

AVA I LABLE NOVEMBER 9

Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all LCBO stores.

PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE. Cette publication est également disponible en français.

10  FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2016

WINE ENTHUSIAST RATINGS

SCORE OUT OF 100 POINTS

HANDCRAFTED in

TEXAS

PTS

Available at your local LCBO 1.14L – Now Available

BOTTLED & DISTILLED IN AUSTIN, TX

DISTILLED & BOTTELED BY FIFTH GENERATION INC. 40% ALC./VOL. © 2016 TITOÕS HANDMADE VODKA.

EDITOR’S NOTES

With the launch of e-commerce at the LCBO this past summer, it is now easier than ever to shop the pages of Food & Drink . If you find a product you’d like to try, but it is not stocked at your local store, chances are you will be able to find it online and have it shipped to any store or, for a fee, directly to your home. There are currently close to 5,000 products avail- able, and that number will grow over time. As a bonus for those of you who download and read our digital edition (this issue will be available to down- load September 14), you can now shop within the issue, clicking on products and adding them to your shopping cart.    We think this issue is loaded with click-worthy products, especially those from Ontario. In “Ontario Wine Stars” James Chatto has taken the guess-work out of deciding what wine to choose by pulling together a collection of best- selling, classic, can’t miss local products starting on page 49. Then, in “Savouring Ontario” on page 92, James and recipe developer Jennifer MacKenzie teamed up to create truly local food and wine matches, pairing the food of three di erent regions of the province with wines from that same region—Ontario terroir at its finest. On the beer side, Christopher St. Onge has created a menu that celebrates Oktoberfest (in case you can’t make it to Germany or Kitchener-Waterloo this year) and

we’ve given it an Ontario twist by hav- ing Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic suggest German-style Ontario craft beers to serve alongside. Starting on page 106, “October Feast” is an exceptionally deli- cious comfort meal for any occasion this season. And finally, “Local Authority” on page 65 acquaints us with some of Ontario’s finest independent brewers and distillers, sharing their stories and inspiring us to try their products.    Of course, you’ll also find loads of ideas in this issue that take full advantage of all the fresh produce that is bursting from farmer’s markets this time of year—frommodern ways to stu unexpected vegetables (page 100) and uniquely flavoured pestos (page 129) to fresh and delicious takes on potato side dishes (page 121). Plus, we haven’t forgotten Autumn’s biggest celebra- tion—Thanksgiving—but we do pro- pose shaking up the main course this year, starting on page 78. We’ve got the traditionalists covered with an assort- ment of after-dinner drinks on page 86 or a selection of fruit pies with cheese on page 39. And, if you do forego the big bird, “Turkey on the Q” will satisfy your turkey cravings in four delicious ways (page 57).    We hope you enjoy this issue and

the season—don’t forget to check out lcbo.com to shop online and foodanddrink.ca to download our digital issue.

PORTRAIT BY STACEY BRANDFORD

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN

SHOP LCBO.COM

THOUSANDS OF YOUR FAVOURITES NOWONLINE.

24608

CAULIFLAVOUR.

Add a little spice to your meal with our Ras El Hanout Roasted Whole Cauliflower recipe. Spiced with our savoury PC ® Black Label Ras El Hanout Spice Blend and roasted until tender, this Moroccan-inspired dish can be served with lemon roasted chicken or as a tasty main dish with couscous and wilted greens. Either way, your guests will be asking for the recipe.

Ras El Hanout RoastedWhole Cauliflower

INGREDIENTS

1 tbsp (15 mL)

PC ® Black Label Ras El Hanout Spice Blend kosher salt PC ® NewWorld EVOO Extra Virgin Olive Oil medium head cauliflower, leaves trimmed and bottom cut flat tahini finely grated lemon rind fresh lemon juice clove garlic, minced each kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper PC ® 1%M.F. Plain Yogurt PC ® Black Label Chermoula Bell Pepper Spread & Marinade chopped toasted pistachios lightly packed cilantro leaves

1 ∕ 2

tsp (2 mL)

1 ∕ 4

cup (50 mL)

1

1 ∕ 4

cup (50 mL)

1 ∕ 2 tsp (2 mL) 1 tbsp (15 mL) 1 1 ∕ 4 tsp (1 mL)

1 ∕ 3 cup (75 mL) 2 tbsp (25 mL)

2 tbsp (25 mL) 1 ∕ 4 cup (50 mL)

instructions

Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C). Combine spice blend, 1 ∕ 2

tsp (2 mL) salt and

oil; set aside. Cook whole cauliflower in large saucepan of boiling water just until tender but firm, about 3 to 4 minutes. Drain well; place cut side down in greased baking dish. Insert tip of sharp knife into top of cauliflower in five random places. Brush spice mixture all over and into crevices. Roast in centre of oven for 20 to 25 minutes or until browned and tender. Meanwhile, whisk together tahini, 1 ∕ 4 cup (50 mL) boiling water, lemon rind, lemon juice, garlic, 1 ∕ 4 tsp (1 mL) salt and pepper; whisk in 2 to 3 tbsp (25 to 45 mL) extra water to thin sauce until thin enough to drizzle if necessary. Set aside. Combine yogurt and chermoula spread. Drizzle spoonful each of chermoula sauce and tahini sauce over top of roasted cauliflower; sprinkle with pistachios and cilantro. Cut into wedges and serve with remaining sauces.

Find all our fall recipes at pc.ca/blacklabel

All trademarks & logos are trademarks of Loblaws Inc. ©2016 Loblaws Inc. All rights reserved.

EXTEND YOUR SUMMER

Ideas to keep that BBQ going throughout the fall WITH THESE DELICIOUS NEW CANADIAN RECIPES

PREP TIME: 10 min | TOTAL TIME: 10 min | SERVINGS: 4 Sweeten The Deal Escape to sunny Hawaii without leaving home, by adding grilled pineapple to your dog.

Aloha Hawaiian Do g

Ingredients 4 Maple Leaf ® Top Dogs ® 4 hot dog buns 3/4 cup pineapple, diced 1 red onion, sliced 1/2” thick

1 tsp. vegetable oil 4 tbsp. BBQ sauce

Preparation Preheat grill to medium-high heat. Cook the wieners as directed per package.

In a medium size bowl, add the pineapple and red onion slices. Drizzle with oil and toss to evenly coat. Place the onions and pineapple on the hot grill and cook for 2-3 minutes on both sides. Remove from the grill, and give the onions a rough chop. Place each hot dog in a bun and top evenly with the grilled pineapple, onions and drizzle with BBQ sauce.

PREP TIME: 10 min | TOTAL TIME: 10 min | SERVINGS: 4 A Fresh Twist On A Classic Dog Lighten-up a classic Schneiders® hot dog with eshly chopped veggies and herbs.

California-Fresh Dog

Ingredients 4 Schneiders ® Red Hots ® 4 hot dog buns 1 jalapeno, sliced into thin rounds 1/4 cup carrot, matchsticks 1/4 cup cucumber, sliced thin

4 tbsp. sriracha 4 sprigs cilantro

Preparation Preheat grill to medium-high heat. Cook the wieners as directed per package.

Place each hot dog in a bun, evenly top with sliced cucumber, carrot and jalapeno. Drizzle with sriracha and garnish with sprigs of cilantro. Serve and enjoy.

THE $17 SOLUTION

The resourceful buyers at Vintages remove the guesswork from your entertaining equation with two big reds whose provenance, quality and character make them superb values at this price. vintages.com/17

Featured products may not be available in all V intages locations. Visit vintages.com for availability and store locations. Prices subject to change.

24528

CRAZY GOOD The grapes for this wine come from a vineyard whose sticky clay soil drives the winery staff batty in winter, but that also contributes to creating deliciously deep flavour and colour in the wines. WITS END LUNA SHIRAZ 2014 McLaren Vale, South Australia Fruity with a touch of smoky cedar and bacon.

Excellent with roast beef. Full-bodied & Smooth 311258 (XD) 750 mL 2

JUST $17 92 points (winecompanion.com.au)

NATIONAL TREASURE Deemed a “stunning value” by critic Robert Parker Jr., this rich Monastrell (aka Mourvèdre) comes from an innovative group of winemakers focused on highlighting Spain’s great grape diversity. VINOS SIN LEY M OLD VINE MONASTRELL 2011 DO Yecla, Spain Rich and elegant with earthy black fruit and blueberries. Perfect with Cajun-spiced Tex-Mex dishes. Full-bodied & Firm 344226 (D) 750 mL 2 JUST $17 92 points ( erobertparker.com )

ADVERTISING FEATURE

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A SPLASH OF AMARO BY ERIC VELLEND  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

THE PROOF IS IN THE FLAVOUR WHEN YOU COOK WITH LIQUEUR.

The unstoppable popularity of the Negroni has put the spotlight on the bit- tersweet Italian liqueurs known as amaros. Infused with a wide range of roots, fruits, herbs and spices, amaro is often poured as a gratis postprandial digestivo at restaurants in Italy. In addition to settling the stomach, it’s also fun to cook with, boosting sweetness and lending its complex flavours to many dishes both sweet and savoury. In this recipe, it takes caramelized onions to the next level for an unforgettable grilled cheese sandwich stacked with a trio of Italian formaggi .     Unlike the unabashedly bitter Campari, which is primarily an aperitif or cocktail ingredient, most amaros are a delight to sip neat or on the rocks. For the uninitiated, Amaro Averna ( LCBO 208363, $24.45) is the perfect introduction. It’s rich, velvety and gently bitter with notes of root beer and cinnamon. Adorned with a fetching retro label, Amaro Lucano ( LCBO 285163, $23.20) has a little more bite, minty cola flavours and a black tea finish.     Between the alcohol and sugar, the Italian elixir will keep almost indefinitely in your liquor cabinet. Though once you are seduced by its beguiling charms, the bottle won’t have much time to collect dust.

GRILLED CHEESE PANINI WITH

AMARO ONIONS recipe on page 151

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2016 19

He re ’s a new t wist on Pill er ’s t ra di ti on al s mo ked sa us ag es . Ma de u si ng a ut he nt ic E ur op ea n re ci pe s, t he y ma ke t he perfect t op ping o n a freshl y to as ted baguette a lo ng w it h de li ci ou s, h omem ad e zu cc hi ni r el is h. Gu ests will be askin g for mo re . Se e the vi de o at p illers .c om /rec ip es /1 6- sa us age-slid ers S a u sage Slid er s

Vis it Pil ler s.c om for th is recipe an d more .

welcome home

WHAT’S NEW BY JULIA AITKEN  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

A WORLD OF NEW PRODUCTS AT THE LCBO AND VINTAGES.

TIME ON ITS SIDE

Piccini Villa al Cortile Brunello di Montalcino DOCG LCBO 434696, $36.45

Like all Brunellos, this new addition to the LCBO’s Signature Collection takes time to craft (at least two years in barrels, then an- other three before release) and that’s reflected in the price. But, for a 2010, this is a great-value wine, complex and powerful. A classic with osso bucco, it also teams beautifully with grilled steak or lamb.

FRESH FROM THE ORCHARD Three Olives Apples & Pears Flavoured Vodka LCBO 467647, $26.75 This latest creation from Three Olives marries the flavours of crisp apple and juicy pear with smooth premium vodka. It’s perfect for a celebratory autumnal punch: mix 2 parts each Apples & Pears Vodka and apple cider with 1 part each orange and cranberry juice, then garnish with apple and pear slices.

RASPBERRY TART

Black Fly Vodka Sour Raspberry  LCBO 448613, 473 mL, $2.95

FromBlack Fly Beverage Company—the London, Ont., ready-to-drink ex- perts—comes a zesty new vodka sour. Black Fly blends smooth Canadian vodka with the fruitiness of real raspberry juice, then adds a little cane sugar—but not too much—for the perfect sweet-sour balance. Packaged in a handy single-serve can, this on-trend beverage is perfect for fall entertaining.

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2016 21

WHAT ’ S NEW

Suntory Whisky Toki LCBO 465484, $59.95 With everything from blends to single malts, Japan is fast becoming known for its pre­ mium whiskies. Suntory crafts this blend fromwhiskies produced at its three legendary distilleries. With hints of raisins and spiced apricot jam, and undertones of toasty cacao, it’s an ideal autumn tipple. Serve on the rocks or with a splash of water. SPIRIT OF THE EAST

MOST WANTED 19 Crimes. Cabernet Sauvignon LCBO 461525, $18.95 In 18th-century England, there were 19 crimes punishable by transportation to Australia. This premium red celebrates the pio- neering spirit of those unfortu- nate enough to be shipped down under against their will. Peruse the mug shot and story of an ac- tual convict on the label while you enjoy the rich fruit and firm tannins of this big red.

PICTURE PERFECT McMichael Collection Cabernet Merlot VQA LCBO 456590, $14.95

Celebrating a Canadian masterpiece with an iconic Group of Seven painting on its label, this food-friendly red displays vibrant cherry and berry aromas. Beef tourtière, grilled Italian sausages, gourmet burgers and blue cheese all pair well. A light aging in oak gives this well-structured wine subtle flavours of vanilla and cranberry and delicate tannins.

22  FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2016

WHAT ’ S NEW

LATE-SUMMER SIPPER

Wakefield Shiraz 2014  VINTAGES 943787, $18.95

Popular for a long time with Ontario’s red-wine aficionados, this deliciously expressive Australian Shiraz is now part of VINTAGES ESSENTIALS , so it’s always available. Bursting with fresh berry flavours and aromas, it’s balanced and versatile. Perfect with the season’s last barbecue—especially burgers or T-bones—or roast lamb and meaty pasta dishes.

BETTER THAN CRACKERS Hop City Brewing Co. Polly Want a Pilsner LCBO 464750, 473 mL, $2.95

From the Ontario craft brewery that brought you Barking Squirrel Lager, comes a pilsner with an equally smile-inducing name. Made from a blend of German and Czech hops, it’s crisp and refreshing with a floral, spicy aroma and a pronounced hop taste. Crack open with fiery Asian food or Southern barbecue, like brisket or pulled pork.

SPANISH DISCOVERY Finca Sobreño Crianza 2012 VINTAGES 452094, $17.95 LCBO buyers found this crowd-pleaser on a buying trip to Spain. After eight months in toasted American oak, the award-winning wine is balanced, juicy and fresh. With notes of blackberry, balsamic and oak, it’s meaty with ripe tannins and a long finish. Pour with grilled red meat, roast lamb or strong cheeses.

24  FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2016

Apple Cranberry Crisp | 11 g of fibre

Chicken Parmesan | 5 g of fibre

Good things come from

Ultimate Burger | 11 g of fibre

allbran.ca/recipes

/allbranca

*© 2016, Trademark of Kellogg Company used under licence by Kellogg Canada Inc.

MUST -HAVES BY BRENDA MORRISON  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

GET THE GOODS ON AUTUMN ENTERTAINING AND EVERYDAY TASKS WITH THESE CLEVER DESIGNS.

SOUPER BOWL Made of double-walled glass, the Zwilling Sorrento Bowl ($35, set of two) is designed to maintain the temperature of food—hot or cold— ensuring optimal enjoyment of everything from oatmeal and hot soups to ice cream and frozen yogurt. Available at zwilling.ca.

BAR ESSENTIAL Add a splash of soda water to whisky, vodka and other spirits with a clas- sic stainless-steel iSi Soda Siphon ($89.95). The small charger (sold separately, $9.95 for 10) inside the handle instantly transforms one litre of flat tap water into refreshing seltzer. Available at BYOB Cocktail Emporium (Toronto, 647•727•3600, cocktailemporium.ca).

DAILY GRIND Great for grinding naturally moist grains of sea salt—which tend to clump and cause blockages in traditional salt mills—Peugeot’s Oleron Wet Salt Mill ($50) features a spiral anti-clogging system made of ceramic, so it won’t corrode over time. Revolutionary! Available at Bergo Designs (Toronto, 416•861•1821, bergo.ca).

LEAVE IT OPEN Savour the last warm days of the season by keeping your front or back door ajar and letting the fresh air in with a Qualy Maple Leaf Door Stop ($16.95). Also handy for keeping the door open while you’re bringing in the groceries. Available at Rolo (Toronto, 877•765•6438, www.rolostore.com).

SCOUR POWER Get tough on greasy, baked-on stains by invest- ing in a Mono Softmesh cleaning cloth ($110). Wipe dirty oven racks or scrub grimy grills or swirl it inside a wine or coffee carafe. Virtually indestructible, it won’t rust, and when it needs to be cleaned, just toss it in the dishwasher! Avail­ able at Bergo Designs (Toronto, 416•861•1821, bergo.ca).

ROASTERS CHOICE Keep your meats moist and tender with the Architec Concave Cutting Board ($59.99). Made of natural rubberwood, the unique concave sur- face allows grilled and roasted meats to rest in their own juices while you’re carving. Perfect for your next Sunday roast! Available at IQ Living (Toronto, 800•716•9681, iqliving.com).

DOUBLE DUTY Ideal for hearty fall fare, the Staub Braise and Grill Pan ($525) features the brand’s iconic cast-iron cocotte for braising, browning and simmering, with the lid redesigned to double as a stovetop pan for cooking meat with perfect grill marks. An exceptional autumn wedding gift, available at zwilling.ca.

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2016 27

Guilty pleasures. We didn’t crack the eggs. Or splurge on the Belgian chocolate. But we did heat the oven to bake the gourmet cupcakes that’ll be eaten before they’ve had the chance to cool. When the energy you invest in life meets the energywe fuel it with, sweet things happen.

TREND SPOTTING BY KAT TANCOCK  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR FROM THE WORLD OF FOOD AND DRINK.

As the craft spirits trend grows ever broader, drinkers are looking for the new and different, and distillers are happy to oblige—including Canadian whisky distillers. Whether flavoured, rye-heavy or not even aged at all, one thing’s for sure—this isn’t your granddad’s whisky.

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2016 29

TREND SPOTT ING

After more than 30 years of writing about whisky, senior editor James Chatto knows what he likes— but is always eager to try new releases, too.

TASTING NOTES

J.P. Wiser’s Last Barrels LCBO 461012, $64.95

At 14 years old, this whisky is “rich and smooth and complex,” says James—not sweet, with a spicy rye edge and notes of vanilla, grapefruit, licorice and lots of oak. “This is one that you could put in a brandy snifter, straight up,” he says. “You want to enjoy the aroma.”

TRENDS TO WATCH “They’re experimenting more,” says James of Canadian producers’ newer whisky creations. On the one hand, he notes, distillers are playing with added flavours like maple and honey, as well as with blending and aging—such as using barrels made with Canadian oak. On the other, many are moving away from the smooth sweetness of a corn-heavy blend to- ward whiskies that are drier and more sophisticated, with stronger rye flavours. “People are asking for it,” he says. “Alberta premium rye is so popular.”

Forty Creek Confederation Oak Reserve LCBO 195651, $70.10 This offering gets its name from the trees its barrels were made from; the 150-year-old white oaks from a forest just 40 kilometers from the Grimsby distillery were mere sap- lings when Canada was born. Complex and well-balanced, smooth but not overly rich, it has hints of orange and juniper on the nose, James says. Drink neat or on the rocks.

just add water [ HOW TO SERVE ]

Premium whiskies should be enjoyed on their own, James believes, rather than in cocktails, where the other ingredients will overpower the subtleties of the spirit. He suggests starting with a sip of the whisky neat, at room temperature, for a first sampling of the tex- ture and flavour. Then add a couple of drops of room-temperature water—no more than a teaspoon per 2-oz serving—to spread out and bring forth new flavours and aromas.     As for the type of water to use, James isn’t fussy like some con- noisseurs can be—he notes that many whiskies in Scotland contain Glasgow tap water—though he does caution against using some min- eral waters, which can be salty.

30  FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2016

F I N A L T O U C H ®

J IGGER SET

M I X E D M E T A L F I N I S H E S

Includes three di erent stainless steel jiggers in di erent nishes:

copper, brass & stainless steel. Two-sided – just ip over for

di erent measurements. Measurement markings in oz & cL.

F I N A L T O U C H ®

T M RUM TASTER

G L A S S

Perfectly designed for rum, this glass helps you to taste and discover the

complexity of aged rums. The curved pro le of the glass ares out at the top to

help release aromas within the lower bulb. The bottom of the glass has our roller

which creates a natural liquid motion further increasing the nosing of aromas.

There is a new wave of distillers that are creating & aging rum so top-notch

that you deserve the right glass to truly appreciate them.

F I N A L T O U C H ®

ROCK ROLLER

G L A S S

The two stainless steel chilling balls are important because serving

whiskies or scotches with traditional ice slowly bruises (by diluting) the

liquor. Bruising will result in an inconsistent taste from beginning to end

and loss of the avour and aroma.

A simple wrist motion rolls each of the chilling balls around the bottom.

The outward curve in each glass prevents them from rolling out while

sipping. Tongs are included for safe handling of chilling balls.

WHERE TO BUY &

MORE INFORMATION

W W W . A LWAY S F I N A L T O U C H . C O M

http://goo.gl/pWdTzk

TREND SPOTT ING

Definitions

The basic definition of whisky (whiskey if you’re Irish or American) is a distilled spirit made from fermented grain mash, typically aged in wooden barrels—but everyone has their own take on the specifics. By law, for a product to be sold in Canada as Canadian whisky, it must be made and barrel-aged here for at least three years. This is why so-called white whisky is often labelled as moonshine— though the base spirit is the same, it hasn’t been aged and can’t be called whisky. Whether a product is called Canadian whisky, Canadian rye whisky or simply rye whisky, it can be made from any cereal grain—meaning in theory, a whisky could be called “rye” even if it contains no rye grain at all. That said, most rye whiskies on the market contain a proportion of rye-based spirit for flavour blended with the product of other grains, mostly corn. What is whisky, really, and how is it made? Here, we clear up the confusion with some helpful explanations.

[ WHAT TO BUY ]

There’s more than a little romance in J.P. Wiser’s Last Barrels, a limited-edition release distilled in 2001 using a sour-mash method that has since been retired. Alongside the whisky itself, Toronto’s Drake General Store has worked with 10 local chefs to create custom preserves, sauces, maple syrup, mustard and chocolates using the premium spirit. Find them in-store and online at drakegeneralstore.ca. Honouring Last Barrels

BARREL PHOTO ©iSTOCK.COM/KOYA79

A HINT OF WHISKY

66 Gilead’s Du Bois Barrel Aged Maple Syrup brings the taste of whisky barrels to your breakfast table. hold flavour—which can be transferred to other foods and drinks. Dark syrup harvested in Prince Edward County is aged in the distillery’s Wild Once whisky’s been aged and bottled, the barrels still

Oak Whisky barrels to produce a condiment with oaky, smoky depth— and not a lick of alcohol. (375 mL, $18.95, store.66gileaddistillery.com)

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN

Share your experience at

#LCBOtastelocal

SEPTEMBER 11 – OCTOBER 9 LIVE, LOVE, TASTE LOCAL Nearly 100 restaurants across Ontario are pairing local wines by the glass with local fare. Visit any one of these restaurants to savour a truly local culinary experience. For more details, visit www.lcbo.com/restaurants

Toronto Duke of York, the Annex East Thirty-Six Farmhouse Tavern* Globe Bistro Grano Harvest Kitchen* Hawthorne Food & Drink* John & Sons Oyster House

Palgrave The Church Public Inn*

Kitchener Borealis Grille & Bar* Charcoal Steak House Del’s Enoteca Pizzeria Martini’s Restaurant The Lancaster Smokehouse*

Acton-Caledon Headwaters Restaurant at Millcroft Inn & Spa

Picton Merrill Inn Restaurant

Brantford Blue Dog Coffee Roasters Café

Midland The Explorers Cafe

Port Hope The Social Bar and Table*

Calabogie Canthooks Restaurant

L’Avenue Bistro Le Sélect Bistro* Magic Oven* Mysteriously Yours Dinner Theatre Nota Bene Osgoode Hall Restaurant Paintbox Bistro Peter Pan Bistro Posticino Ristorante Skin+Bones The Lakeview Restaurant The Rosedale Diner Toca at the Ritz Carlton Toronto ViBo Restaurant

Mono Cabin 1865 at Hockley Valley Resort*

Sault Ste. Marie View Restaurant + Bar

Cambridge The Easy Pour Wine Bar

Niagara Falls Lucky’s Steakhouse at Casino Niagara Windows by Jamie Kennedy Fresh Grill and Winebar* Niagara-on-the-Lake Backhouse Restaurant* Cannery Restaurant at Pillar and Post Inn & Spa Escabèche Restaurant at Prince of Wales Hotel Hob Nob Restaurant &Wine Bar The Irish Harp Pub The Oban Inn & Spa Tiara Restaurant at Queen’s Landing Hotel Zee’s Grill Ottawa 10fourteen Courtyard Restaurant Gibson’s on Queen Metropolitain Brasserie Petit Bill’s Bistro The Buzz Restaurant The Grand Pizzeria & Bar Thyme & Again Creative Catering and Take Home Food Shop* Wilfrid’s Restaurant at Fairmont Château Laurier North Bay The White Owl Bistro*

Collingwood Azzurra*

Simcoe Barrel Restaurant*

Exeter Eddington’s of Exeter*

St. Catharines Dani’s Bistro & VQAWine Bar

Trenton Tomasso’s Italian Grille*

Guelph Borealis Grille & Bar* Miijidaa Café + Bistro* The Woolwich Arrow Pub*

Stratford Molly Bloom’s Irish Pub Pazzo Taverna and Pizzeria* Revival House The Parlour Steakhouse

Vineland Lake House Restaurant

Ingersoll Elm Hurst Inn & Spa

Thornbury Bruce Wine Bar Kitchen* The Cheese Gallery*

Westport The Cove Country Inn Restaurant

Kingston AquaTerra

Windsor Rino’s Kitchen & Ale House*

Atomica Pizza &Wine Bar* Chez Piggy Restaurant & Bar Le Chien Noir* Dianne’s Fish Shack & Smokehouse* Harper’s Burger Bar* The River Mill Restaurant*

Toronto 360 the Restaurant at the CN Tower Allen’s Annona Restaurant at Park Hyatt Toronto Bar Isabel Bindia Indian Bistro* Cafe Belong at Evergreen Brick Works* Duke of Devon, TD Centre Duke of Kent, Midtown Duke of Richmond, Toronto Eaton Centre Duke of Somerset, Bay & Elm Duke of Westminister, First Canadian Place

Kingsville Jack’s GastroPub at Inn 31*

* Designated by Feast ON to recognize businesses that are truly dedicated to showcasing Ontario’s unique taste of place. For more details, please visit https://feaston.ontarioculinary.com

24997

ONTARIO SUPERSTARS Celebrate autumn with wines from our own backyard. These VQA wines have been paired with delicious recipes for a truly local experience.

PENINSULA RIDGE SEMI DRY RIESLING VQA 387043 750 mL $13.95 OFF DRY & FRUITY D 10 g/L

SIBLING RIVALRY RED VQA 126151 750 mL $13.95 FULL BODIED & SMOOTH D 12 g/L

FEATHERSTONE CABERNET FRANC VQA 64618 750 mL $19.20 MEDIUM BODIED & FRUITY XD 4 g/L Vintages Essentials Collection

TOASTED TURKEY CAESAR WRAPS Scan the code for this recipe or visit lcbo.recipes/6704

ROASTED RACK OF LAMB WITH ROSEMARY DIJON SAUCE

Scan the code for this recipe or visit lcbo.recipes/6703

Featured products available at select LCBO stores. Prices subject to change without notice. VintagesEssentialsCollection isalwaysavailable atmanyLCBO locations.Visitvintages.com/essentials

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FOOD  SEASONAL

Sophisticated and imaginative, these five sensational fruit pies incorporate unexpected cheeses— taking the idea of apple pie with cheese to a whole new level. An easy food-processor pastry recipe is included, or you can skip this step completely by picking up a box of already rolled-out pie crusts in the refrigerator section of your supermarket. Now that’s “as easy as pie!” BY MONDA ROSENBERG  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE Pie à la Fromage

Elegant Pear & ROQUEFORT TARTS recipe on page 156

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2016 39

SEASONAL  PIE À LA FROMAGE

Plum AND FETA TART

5 In a blender, combine yogurt, eggs, flour, sugar and feta. Pulse and whirl until smooth, stopping occasionally to scrape down sides. Pour into phyllo crust. Brush 1 piece of plum all over with honey; then place, cut-side down, in the filling. Repeat with remaining plums. 6 Bake at 375°(190°C) for 25 to 30 minutes, until crust is golden and the filling seems set when jiggled. Serve in squares. Best to serve the day it is made. Serves 6 to 8

shallow sides. Brush with some of the melted butter. Lay another sheet of phyllo on top, matching the corners as best you can. Brush with more butter. Continue layering and but- tering until there is a stack of 6 sheets. Do not butter the top sheet. 3 To form a pastry edge, tightly fold up one long side of phyllo until an edge is formed just inside the pan side. Repeat with the other long side, then the short sides. Tuck in the corners. Brush top of pastry edges with butter. 4 Slice 1 plum in half following the indented line on one side. Holding half the plum in one hand, use your other hand to gently rotate the 2 halves apart. Remove pits and discard. Slice each half into 2 oval pieces, 1 having a border of skin all around, the other having skin cov- ering an entire side. Repeat with remaining plums.

This will be the prettiest and healthiest plum tart you will ever serve. If there are any left- overs, don’t hesitate to snack away or have some at lunch, since it is not only protein-rich but filled with prime fruit, yogurt and cheese. 6 sheets of phyllo pastry 3 tbsp (45 mL) melted butter 6 ripe red plums 1 cup (250 mL) plain Greek yogurt or sour cream (5% MF) 2 eggs

¼ cup (60 mL) all-purpose flour ¼ cup (60 mL) granulated sugar 1 cup (250 mL) crumbled feta 3 tbsp (45 mL) honey or maple syrup 1 Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C).

WHAT TO SERVE Megalomaniac Homegrown Riesling VQA LCBO 183061, $14.95 County Pear Cider LCBO 424093, 500 mL, $8.00

2 For crust, lay 1 sheet of phyllo on an oiled 9 x 13-inch (23 x 33-cm) baking sheet with

40  FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2016

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SEASONAL  PIE À LA FROMAGE

Fresh Fig & WARM BRIE PIE

a 9-inch (23-cm) tart pan with removable sides or a 9-inch (23-cm) springform pan. If using the springform pan, roll the edge of the pie crust towards the centre of the pan until a thick edge is formed around the pan. Prick bottom of pie shell in several places. Cut brie into ¼-inch-thick (5-mm) slices. Lay over crust bottom, placing edge slices rind-side down. For shiny pastry, whisk egg with 2 tbsp (30 mL) water and brush over exposed crust. 3 Place in oven and immediately turn oven down to 350°F (180°C). Bake in centre of oven until pastry is golden and cheese is bubbly, about 20 minutes. 4 Meanwhile, trim fig stems. Slice figs in half through the stem end. Place cut-side down

Luscious fresh figs are always a treat, espe- cially paired with a double-cream cheese. You won’t find a prettier way to present this com- bo than this spectacular starburst pie. Despite its looks, the pie only has one fiddly part: ar- ranging the cut figs in the brie-lined pie plate. Pastry for a single-crust pie or 1 crust from a 400-g box of refrigerated pie crusts 7 oz (210 g) double cream brie or Cambozola, chilled 1 egg plus 2 tbsp (30 mL) water (optional) 10 ripe fresh figs 2 tbsp (30 mL) maple syrup 1 Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C). 2 Roll out pastry to an 11-inch (28-cm) round, or simply unroll the purchased crust. Fit into

and slice each half into 3 wedges. When pas- try shell is golden, place on a heatproof sur- face. Arrange figs in shell, skin-side down, in a starburst fashion. Gently brush fruit with maple syrup. Enjoy as is, or return to the 350°F (180°C) oven for 10 to 15 minutes to warm figs. Serves 8 WHAT TO SERVE Warre’s Otima 10 Year Old Tawny Port LCBO 566174, 500 mL, $22.20 Forty Creek Confederation Oak Reserve Whisky LCBO 195651, $70.10

42  FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2016

THREE GREAT REGIONS ONE GREAT SCORE 92 POINTS

2014 Pinot Noir, Natalie MacLean, April, 2016

Please enjoy our wines responsibly.16ME0685

SEASONAL  PIE À LA FROMAGE

Cranberry, ASIAGO & WALNUT GALETTE

1 cup (250 mL) coarsely chopped walnuts 1 egg plus 2 tbsp (30 mL) water (optional) 1 Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C). 2 For pastry, whirl flour with sugar and salt in a food processor until blended. Cut butter into small pieces and scatter over flour mixture. Pulse until coarse crumbs form. With motor running, slowly pour cold water through the feed tube. Whirl just until dough starts to come together. Gather into a ball. Flatten into a thick round. Wrap with plastic wrap and re- frigerate until cold, at least 30 minutes. 3 Roll dough or refrigerated pie crust into a 12-inch (30-cm) round. It will be thick. Transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet. In a bowl, stir sugar with flour and season- ings. Add cranberries and toss until coated. Add cheese and nuts and toss with your hands to evenly mix. 4 Tumble onto the pastry round, leaving a 2½‑inch (6-cm) uncovered border of pastry. Move some cranberries to the top so they will be visible when pie is baked. Gently press cranberries into the filling. Fold uncovered pastry up over filling, overlapping edges as

Start a new tradition at Thanksgiving with this gorgeous modern pie. No fancy pastry fluting needed, you simply fold the pastry edges over the filling. It does, however, need a sturdy crust, so try our easy butter pastry (below) or use 1 crust from a 400-g box of re- frigerated pie crusts. Save this treat for serv- ing in the living room with coffee a while after dinner, since it takes the place of both dessert and cheese courses. After all, you’ll probably feel too stuffed to indulge in dessert right af- ter the big-bird feast. EASY BUTTER PASTRY

needed. Gently press where they overlap. About 5 inches (12 cm) of cranberry mixture will re- main uncovered. Cut out a piece of parchment paper that will approximately cover the ex- posed filling. 5 For a shiny crust, whisk egg with 2 tbsp (30 mL) water and brush over crust. Lay parch­ ment cut-out over filling, but don’t press onto the crust. 6 Immediately reduce oven temperature to 350°F (180°C). 7 Bake until crust is deep golden, about 1 hour. Let rest about a half hour before serving. Pie will keep well at room temperature for at least a day. Serves 6 to 8

2 cups (500 mL) all-purpose flour 2 tbsp (30 mL) granulated sugar ½ tsp (2 mL) salt ¾ cup (175 mL) cold unsalted butter 3 tbsp (45 mL) ice-cold water FILLING

WHAT TO SERVE Sandeman Late Bottled Vintage Port LCBO 195974, $17.15 Muskoka Lakes Cranberry Wine LCBO 609701, $16.95

¾ cup (175 mL) granulated sugar ⅓ cup (80 mL) all-purpose flour ½ tsp (2 mL) each ground nutmeg and cinnamon 2 cups (500 mL) frozen cranberries, thawed in refrigerator 2 cups (500 mL) grated Asiago cheese, about 5 oz (150 g)

44  FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2016

Well, if you can call almost 200 years in the making, new. THE GLENLIVET ® our new single malt. founder’s reserve,

IT ALL COMES BACK TO THE ORIGINAL

theglenlivetca

ca.theglenlivet.ca

SEASONAL  PIE À LA FROMAGE

Apple Pie WITH CHEDDAR CRUMBLE TOPPING

PASTRY Easy Butter Pastry (see Cranberry, Asiago & Walnut Galette, page 44) 1 Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). 2 For pie, peel apples, core and thinly slice. They should measure about 4½ cups (1.125 L). Place in a bowl. In a separate bowl, stir flour with sugar and cinnamon. Gradually sprinkle over apples, tossing apples with your hands to evenly coat. 3 For crumble, stir flour with brown sugar in a bowl. Add butter and use your fingers to crumble together. Add cheddar and work in until evenly mixed. Press into clumps. 4 Using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll pastry on a lightly floured surface into a long rectan- gle, approximately 16 x 7 inches (40 x 18 cm). Lift and fit into 14 x 4½-inch (35 x 14‑cm) loose-bottom rectangular tart pan. Trim pas-

Apple crumbles are a beloved Canadian des- sert, as is a wedge of aged cheddar with a har- vest apple pie. Here they’re married in a juicy apple pie crowned with a golden cheddar crumble. How does that saying go? “What’s apple pie without cheese?” Just remind your guests they’re getting both the hug and the squeeze in every forkful. PIE 5 medium-size apples, such as McIntosh ¼ cup (60 mL) all-purpose flour 3 tbsp (45 mL) granulated sugar ½ tsp (2 mL) ground cinnamon CRUMBLE ½ cup (125 mL) all-purpose flour 2 tbsp (30 mL) packed brown sugar 3 tbsp (45 mL) room-temperature butter 1½ cups (375 mL) finely grated old cheddar cheese, about 4 oz (125 g)

try even with edge of pan. Place apples in crust, spreading evenly. Do not mound. Gen- tly press down and move slices to fill in any large gaps. Add cheese-crumble mixture, a handful at a time, to top of apples. It should look uneven. 5 Set on a baking sheet. Place in preheated oven. Immediately reduce heat to 350°F (180°C) and bake 40 minutes. Serves 4 to 5

WHAT TO SERVE Domaine Pinnacle Ice Cider LCBO 94094, 375 mL, $25.65 Calvados Boulard Pays d’Auge LCBO 296228, $49.95

46  FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2016

RAVENSWOOD LODI

LIMITED RELEASE August 20 in Vintages

BONUS Limited Edition Bottle Stopper * Offered on select bottles

September 18 to October 8, 2016. * Limited time offer while quantities last.

Available in Vintages at the LCBO.

Please enjoy our wines responsibly.

UNSCRIPTED. UNAPOLOGETIC. UNRESERVED.

#UNRESERVEDMOMENTS Capture the fun and flavour of your most unreserved moments. UNRESERVEDWINE SAVE $ 1 .00 $9.95 NOW $8.95 from September 12 – October 9, 2016

NEW

LCBO# 453332 LCBO# 453340

PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY.

DRINK WINE

ONTAR I

W I NE

WITH HOLLYWOOD DESCENDING ON TORONTO FOR TIFF, WE PRESENT ENDURINGLY CLASSIC, BEST-SELLING, CAN’T-MISS WINES THAT ARE WORTHY OF APPLAUSE.

STAR

BY JAMES CHATTO ILLUSTRATIONS BY CAI SEPULIS

PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN

WINE ONTARIO WINE STARS

Closson Chase Vineyard Chardonnay VQA VINTAGES 148866, $29.00 A star was born in Prince Edward County when Deborah Paskus produced her first Chardonnay from Closson Chase’s vineyards. Inspired by Burgundy, ripe and judiciously oaked, it set a new benchmark and won rave reviews wherever it was tasted. The 2014 vin- tage was Paskus’s last, and was fostered by Closson Chase’s new winemaker, Keith Tyers. I like the way he describes it: “The nose opens with salted caramel, lemon custard, flint and brioche. The mouth is full with cream and nectarine zest, mineral, buttered toast and a long, round finish.”

Featherstone Cabernet Franc VQA VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 64618, $19.20 Here’s a fan favourite, as smooth and beautifully turned out as Cary Grant. Nothing green, nothing crude, just an urbane braid of lush flavours—black cherry and cranberry with a trace of leather and cigars from months in American oak. Savour each sip and admire the long, debonair finish.

Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Brut VQA LCBO 217521, $29.95

Are those corks or paparazzi flashbulbs popping as this classic Niagara bubbly makes its appearance? Always so assured, so sophisticated, it’s a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir made in the classic champenoise way—but this sparkling beauty knows how to party. Fresh as a bite from a juicy green apple with just a touch of toast.

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN

Get away by going local.

Whether you’re planning a weekend away or a relaxing night in, locally made cheeses are a truly Canadian pleasure.

Canadian Blue Cheese

Canadian Swiss Cheese

Canadian Camembert

For delicious recipes visit

WINE ONTARIO WINE STARS

Norman Hardie County Pinot Noir Unfiltered VQA VINTAGES 125310, $45.20 The summer of 2014 was cool in Prince Edward County, but September was glorious and Norm Hardie’s Pinot Noir re- ally came into its own. The precious new wine was put into French oak barriques for 10 months, then bottled unfined and unfiltered. Now it’s ready for its close-up, limber and elegant as a dancer, delighting us with its upfront fruit, then giving pause for thought as more complex, mineral notes emerge. Lay it down in your cellar if you have the patience—it’s a per- formance you can relish for years to come.

Hidden Bench Terroir Caché VqA VINTAGES 505610, $38.20 Terroir Caché’s dark, intense power always gets rave reviews—just imag- ine what you can expect from the amazing 2012 vintage! It’s a Meritage blend with the emphasis on Merlot, aged in French oak for 21 months. Tan- nic, densely structured but not impenetrable, it’s holding back a torrent of fruit. Cellar it for at least two years.

Bachelder Niagara Chardonnay VQA VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 302083, $25.25

There’s oak, to be sure, and plenty of tangy peach and apricot flavours, but this creamy, big-bodied Chardonnay never gives a wooden performance and is far too poised and well-bred to seem merely fruity. Thomas Bachelder’s Chardonnays have tremendous focus and balance with just the right amount of racy acidity to thrill your palate.

FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN